What to do with squeaky floors. What to do to prevent wooden floors and parquet from creaking

It is quite possible to eliminate floor squeaking while walking on your own if you approach this problem competently. People have been using wooden floors for a very long time. It is wood that has been competing with many new materials for flooring for a long time. Moreover, it should be noted that, despite the fact that there are modern methods on production finishing materials, it is the tree that is chosen with the aim of making your home elegant and luxurious. It is impossible not to pay attention to the fact that wooden floors bring beauty to the house. However, at a certain point, every owner of a wooden floor is faced with the question of how to eliminate the squeak that has appeared?

How to remove the creaking of a wooden floor in an apartment: one reason out of six

The answer to this question is very easy. If we start with logical reasoning, then the floor is the central part general design, and sooner or later, this structure begins to naturally shift. This is what causes mechanical stress. In addition, there are a number of reasons that influence the occurrence of squeaks.

As a rule, a wooden floor begins to creak due to improper use or prolonged use.

There are 6 main factors:

Incorrect operation;
High indoor humidity;
Loose nail connections;
Lack of required distance at the walls;
Drying of the material;
Long operating time.

Wooden plank floors are laid on joists, which after prolonged use begin to loosen and creak. This becomes especially noticeable at night, when you need to walk around the room quietly, but as a result everyone can wake up. In order to fix this problem, you need to analyze the reasons why creaking may occur. In basic cases, the answer to the question is hidden in the structures themselves.

The floor in the apartment creaks: how to fix it in a few steps

You need to start with the most radical and effective step that will help get rid of squeaks, this is complete replacement floor. New material can long time perform the assigned task without requiring additional repairs. However, this method cannot be called budgetary. Full replacement flooring will require from the owner not only large number time, but also unnecessary expenses for purchase, delivery and, of course, if necessary, payment for the work of the craftsmen. Even the most inexpensive options will require large financial expenses.

You can get rid of squeaks in an old floor if you completely replace it with a new one

Another well-known method for eliminating squeaks is replacing floors with screed. On top of this kind of material you can put ceramic tiles, laminate, wooden parquet or linoleum.

This solution is more profitable, but if there are children in the house, then such an organization will need additional insulation.

Expanded clay or polystyrene foam can be used as an additional layer as an additional layer. Insulation materials are not budget-friendly, and their operation will require a sufficient amount of time and effort.

The most inexpensive option The way to combat squeaking is to update the sheathing with plywood, which is attached with self-tapping screws. But if the logs look bad, then they will have to be dismantled. In this situation, the coating will still need to be completely removed, but even in this case, it is possible that the new floor will not begin to creak.

Experts identify several specific methods that can eliminate the problem of creaking floors. This is not an easy task, however, absolutely anyone can cope with it. The main task is to select required option which will lead to a positive result.

To prevent a wooden floor from creaking, you can use cement mortar or talc, which should be used to cover the cracks

Here are the main ways to fix the problem:

The first thing to do is to think not only about the creaking problem, but also about the appearance of the material. Creaking can be easily eliminated using graphite powder. It contains talc, which, when poured into the cracks, can eliminate squeaking. You can also drive wedges into the cracks; if there is no result, then the boards should be strengthened with screws.
The second method is more labor-intensive and requires more effort. If there are no funds for global changes, then pins will come to the rescue. In those places where creaking is heard, holes with a diameter of 10 to 12 cm should be drilled at the joints. The distance between the holes must be at least 30cm. Using high-quality PVA glue, the pins are pressed. After the floor is cleaned, the squeak will be eliminated.
In order to eliminate squeaking on wooden floor, the boards are attached to the joists with rounded screws. They help tighten and secure the surface without tearing it off. A drill that has a speed control function can make the job easier. If the creaking is not eliminated, then the holes are made larger in diameter and polyurethane foam is suitable for fixation.
The oldest and simple method is to eliminate squeaking using a wedge. For this purpose, wedges are cut out from the required material, lubricated with glue and driven into the holes.
A more durable way to get rid of squeaks, which gives a positive result in any situation, is to use metal anchors. The method is the most reliable, but it will require spending budget and effort. The work consists of installing anchors into a wooden floor, resting against concrete. An outer shell is prepared for it, which is made of metal. Thanks to this method, the joists are strengthened. The anchors will not be visible from the outside, since the holes are created in accordance with their parameters. If you follow the rules, the distance between the anchors should not exceed 1 m, but experts say the smaller the distance, the better.
And last but not least effective method, this is a replacement for screws and nails. This method is not only reliable, but also labor-intensive, due to the fact that the floor undergoes a complete modernization without dismantling. During the renovation process, each section of the floor is carefully checked, and old fasteners are replaced with new parts. Of course, exclude nails, this best option, as they rust over time, causing the floor to deform and creak. Before screeding, check all the boards. Poor quality elements should be removed and replaced with new ones. After the work is done, you can play it safe with construction foam.

If you approach the work competently and carefully, you can make the squeak quiet, or remove it completely without opening it, even from the oldest floor. Your finish will be as quiet as if the work was made from cork. Each method of opening and disassembling can be found in the training video. Thanks to them, you can learn how to repair creaky chipboard boards with your own hands without dismantling the parquet.

Why do floors squeak in an apartment: final stages

No matter which method of dealing with squeaks you prefer, the final step should include a careful examination of the floor surface for cracks. They must be sealed with wood mastic. Make sure that the coating is reliable; the boards must not sag; in this case, we will remove them.

The places where repairs were made need to be sanded. Then the floor is covered with drying oil, which also helps to get rid of floor squeaks for a long time.

Additionally, the wooden floor can be sanded and coated with drying oil, which will help get rid of annoying squeaks

And the last thing to do is to visually treat the floor. If it consists exclusively of boards, then it can be coated with varnish or paint, and if another coating is required, then we lay it. The same applies if the floor needs to be tightened. Thanks to such methods, your wood floor can gain additional lifespan.

Floors are creaking: what to do without disassembling (video)

What conclusion can be drawn from this article? The squeak that comes from your wooden floor is not a sign that extensive installation work will be required. Thanks to the tips listed above in our article, you will be able to special labor and cash deposits to extend the life of your coverage, it is enough to approach this matter correctly.

Wood floors are beautiful and eco-friendly, but they have one significant drawback. Over time, they cause many problems with their creaking. There are several options for what to do to prevent wooden floors from creaking in your house or apartment. The simplest of them is nothing. The creaking of the floor does not affect the strength of the structures, so nothing interferes with the operation of the room. This is an option for lazy owners who are willing to put up with minor inconveniences. If you want to fight the squeak, you need to start by finding out the cause.

Causes of squeaking

Various causes of squeaking wood floors

The main reason why a wooden floor creaks is the deformation of the boards, their displacement and friction against each other. Deformations always occur over time. There may be several reasons for this:

Natural aging process. Nothing can be done about the fact that the properties of the material deteriorate over time. This process always occurs for any material. But for raw materials of natural origin it is a little faster than for synthetic ones. The aging of wood can only be slowed down by protection from all possible negative influences.
Violation of installation technology. When constructing a wooden floor along joists around the perimeter of the wall, a gap must be provided to allow the boards to expand unhindered under the influence of temperature changes and load. If this gap is not provided during expansion, the boards will fit tightly to each other and friction will arise, causing creaking.
Drying of wood. Normal wood humidity for building structures– 12%. At low air humidity, this value decreases and the boards decrease in size. Such a violation of the design can also lead to creaking.
Violation of fastening technology. If the fastening is poor, the nails come out under load. If the fastening is not secure, all elements of the floor pie become loose and a creaking sound appears. If you don’t take action in time, it won’t be limited to just creaks, and eventually the entire structure will collapse.
High indoor air humidity. The process is the reverse of drying. Wood reacts very strongly to changes in the indoor microclimate. If the humidity exceeds the standard, the boards begin to swell and expand. Friction leads to squeaking.

All these reasons are related to the characteristics of the material. Eliminating them is almost impossible (except for technology violations).

Careful treatment can be done to prevent protective compounds and maintain constant recommended indoor humidity.

But this will not prevent aging. In addition, maintaining constant humidity is an extremely labor-intensive undertaking.

Solutions to the problem

Before you remove the creaking of a wooden floor, you need to choose the most suitable way to do this. The problem can be resolved by doing the following:

Polyurethane foam is not durable, so it can only fix the boards temporarily

The composition is able to penetrate even the smallest cracks, filling them. Even those who have never dealt with repair work can make repairs using polyurethane foam. To eliminate creaking in this way, you need to follow the procedure:

take polyurethane foam in a container;
insert the tube into the space between the ceiling and the flooring boards;
squeeze out required quantity material;
wait for it to dry.

Squeaking is eliminated by fixing wooden elements. Polyurethane foam is a rather weak material, so it can only fix the boards temporarily. Afterwards, repairs will be required again.

Tamping wedges

Such repairs can only be made if the floor boards are slightly worn. If the damage to the flooring is severe, the actions will be ineffective.

To solve the problem, wooden wedges are made. They are driven between the boards in emergency places. The elements will prevent movement and friction of the boards.

Fastening to anchors

The principle of attaching anchors to eliminate creaking on the floor

This method of fixing floor boards will eliminate squeaking on concrete floors.

Metal anchors require reliable fastening, which cannot be ensured wooden floor. The disadvantages of this method include its high cost. Repairs must be made in the following order:

using a hammer drill or a drill, a hole is prepared in the ceiling;
a dowel is installed in the hole;
the anchor is driven in without disassembling it into parts;
I fix the floor boards to the fixed anchor bolt.

Using self-tapping screws

Options for eliminating squeaks on the floor

The use of self-tapping screws is suitable if the creaking area is located between the flooring boards and the joists located underneath them. The most difficult task in this case is to determine the location of the joists without dismantling the floor. This should be done in this order:

dismantle the baseboards around the perimeter of the room;
determine the direction of the lag;
on the walls located across the joists, their location is marked with long and thin metal rods;
The rods inserted on both sides are connected with a cord, thus creating markings for work.

Self-tapping screws are needed 2-3 cm less than the total thickness of the boards, flooring and joists. This can be determined by placing a thin metal ruler. Next, you need to fix the floor structures with self-tapping screws along the stretched cord. Fastening is carried out using 2-3 self-tapping screws located close to the center of the log. Fastening should be done with the same step.

Laying plywood

Before you eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor with plywood, you need to make sure it is even. If the base is uneven, this method is not suitable. Plywood sheets are selected with a thickness of at least 12 mm. The plywood is laid out on the boards and attached to them with self-tapping screws. The fastening pitch is 15-20 cm.

Replacement of sections

The event is labor-intensive and quite expensive. Suitable for cases where the boards are severely damaged and the use of other methods is pointless. The floor in places where there is creaking is opened, dismantled and replaced with a new one. It is recommended to abandon nails as fasteners, as they can again lead to squeaking. Self-tapping screws are used.

The process of eliminating squeaks using plywood

Carrying out the necessary and correctly chosen repair measures will allow you to forget about the creaking of the floor for a long time and ensure comfortable living.

Wood is one of the most popular materials for constructing flooring, both in wooden houses, and on a reinforced concrete base. Wood flooring is practical and environmentally friendly, but it is prone to many problems. One of them is that during prolonged use the coating begins to creak.

You can get rid of the annoying sound by completely refinishing the floor. However, this procedure is quite labor-intensive and often expensive. You can fix the problem much easier and faster by simply fixing the coating in problem areas. How exactly can you prevent the floors in your apartment from squeaking?

Causes of squeaking

As you know, a wooden floor can be made in two ways:

logs are sheathed with slabs of plywood, chipboard, OSB or other sheet material;
a solid one is laid on the joists batten.

In both options, logs - thick and durable blocks of wood - are attached parallel to each other with a certain step, which ensures maximum strength of the floor covering.

In addition, between the lags it is created airbag providing ventilation wooden structure and insulating coating. The main layer of the floor is attached to this frame using self-tapping screws.

Floors squeak for the following reasons:

Installation errors - if you lay slabs or boards too tightly, without leaving the necessary gaps, with thermal expansion they will begin to rub against each other, sag and creak. Also, mistakes can be made when preparing the base and installing joists in the apartment - if you fix them on uneven surface, make them unreliably or too long distance from each other, sagging is also inevitable, and the coating will creak when walking on it.
Old age of the coating. Over time, the fasteners (nails or self-tapping screws) begin to become loose, the boards begin to move and sag, and this is what causes creaking.

Troubleshooting

There are two ways to fix squeaks. The first of them is thorough - complete disassembly floor and design of a new covering. At the same time, you can install on the new floor concrete screed, raise the covering above the base or simply sheathe the old structure with thick plywood sheets. This will get rid of the sounds if the boards creak, but if the problem is in the frame, a new layer of coating will not help.

Less expensive and more quick way To fix it and eliminate squeaks is to securely fix the coating to the base. This is done as follows:

First, determine the distance between the floorboards or sheets of plywood and the concrete base. You need to make a hole in the coating all the way to the base and measure the height using a thin splinter or a piece of wire.
There are self-tapping screws of sufficient length to reach the surface concrete slabs, but do not crash into them, and also do not stick out above the floor plane. The thickness of the fastener must be at least 7 mm, and the length of the thread must exceed the height floor structure. In this case, you can screw in the self-tapping screw not with a screwdriver or screwdriver, but use it as a bolt and secure it with wrench. This will allow you to more finely adjust its position so that it definitely does not pierce top layer floor foundations.
The places where the logs lie are determined. This can be done based on the fasteners, since the wooden floor is attached to the frame and, accordingly, screws or nails will be screwed into the joists. If the boards are attached only along the perimeter of the room, you will have to tear off the baseboards and find the screws under them. In addition, a small gap is left near the walls, through which the subfloor is clearly visible.
Holes are drilled in the joists through the covering slabs, which should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the prepared screws.
The fasteners are screwed all the way, recessing the caps into the boards. Thus, it is worth screwing down all the creaking boards, and for prevention, you can treat the entire floor area.
The screws will rest against the concrete, serving as a support for the floor. If the screws are of sufficient thickness, they will never allow the floor to sag or creak.

Instead of recessing the caps into the surface, you can leave some section of the fastener above the floor, and then cut it clean using a grinder. In this case, the additional fasteners will not even be noticeable. After the procedure is completed, the places where the screws are tightened are puttied, painted and covered with a finishing coat.

What can be done if the problem is not in the boards, but in the joists themselves? In this case, simple polyurethane foam can help. The procedure is similar to the previous one. A through hole is also drilled in the creaking place. Its diameter should be sufficient for the tube of the mounting gun to fit through.

Then, through this hole, foam is poured under the shaky joist, which, having hardened, will gain sufficient strength to become a support for load-bearing structure floor. The creaking of the floor will disappear after this, at least until you have to do it major renovation in the apartment.

And lastly, the boards creak due to friction between themselves, what should you do in this case? This cause of unpleasant sounds can be eliminated very in a simple way– by sealing the joints of the covering elements with any elastic material, after driving wedges between them to widen the joint. Sealant or elastic putty is poured between the spread boards.

After drying, the wedges are removed, and the places where they were are also filled with the substance. The sealant can also play the role of insulation in the future and will prevent cracks from forming in the floor.

Most probably the owners of houses or apartments with wooden floors have encountered the problem of creaking floorboards. This phenomenon can be caused by various reasons, and can manifest itself in both old and new buildings. It seems like a small thing, but it’s annoying. And for people with a particularly sensitive psyche, creaking can generally cause an unpleasant neurosis.

You can get rid of unpleasant sounds that get on your nerves in different ways. At the same time, it is not at all necessary to undertake a major overhaul. How to remove the creaking of a wooden floor on your own, without resorting to the services of a professional, will be discussed in this publication.

Possible causes of squeaking

Before you begin repairing a wooden floor, you need to determine the cause of the unpleasant sounds. And they most often arise due to friction of structural parts against each other:

Loose fasteners. If the board is secured to the joists with nails, over time the holes in the wood around them may widen. Both the impact of loads and the drying of the wood contribute to this. In order for a squeak to appear when walking on the floor, sometimes it is enough for just one of the nails to loosely press the board to the base.
If, when installing the boards, the craftsman skimped on nails, nailing them only in the middle, then the floorboards may begin to “walk” in the transverse direction. At the same time, it rubs against neighboring boards, causing an unpleasant sound.

Another mistake made when installing the floor. There is insufficient clearance around the perimeter of the room between the wall and the flooring. When temperature and humidity changes, the material expands. And if the technological (deformation) gap is small or absent altogether, the boards rest against the stationary surface of the wall. They begin to deform, even if it is visually imperceptible, but still. That is, new friction units arise and, accordingly, creaking.

If for some reason the board is deformed - bent outward or inward - then when exposed to load, an unpleasant sound also occurs. Another reason is that the boards must be fastened as securely as possible.
If the boards are securely fastened and do not catch each other, but the floors still creak, then the problem may be in the logs. Over time, the timber could dry out and warp, resulting in friction against the floor slab.
If the floors are old, then it is quite possible that the beams or joists could have rotted in some areas. At the same time, the boards attached to them sag and touch adjacent rows of flooring, creating areas of friction.
If the floors have been laid recently, the cause of the squeak is most often due to non-compliance with the installation technology. Or - the use of low-quality lumber - boards or timber - for arranging the floor. For example, insufficiently dried boards were purchased and put into use without proper processing. When they dry, they become deformed, the fasteners weaken and friction occurs.
When installing the logs, they were not exactly level. Due to differences in their height, deflections are formed when the coating is loaded. Another reason is that the step between the joists is too large and does not correspond to the thickness of the floorboards.
If nails or screws of insufficient length are used for fastening, the fixation of the board will weaken over time. The floorboard moves away from the joists and sinks when loaded. This also results in squeaking.
Annoying sounds may also appear if soft leveling pads were placed underneath them when laying the joists. They become compressed over time, which leads to uneven subsidence of the entire structure.
In old buildings, deformation of the floors may occur due to subsidence of the foundation of the house. In such cases, there is no way to do without large-scale overhauls.

So, in order not to make mistakes and not complicate the work, it is worth considering a step-by-step reconstruction of the floor. It should immediately be noted that today there are quite a lot of tools that can significantly facilitate construction work. However, in in this case, the master uses improvised devices to join the boards together, which everyone can make on their own.

Illustration Brief description of the operation performed
The first step is dismantling the plank covering.
First you need to remove the baseboards. If you plan to use them again, they must be removed very carefully. It is best not to pull on the plinth itself, but, having found the fastening nails, remove them with a nail puller.
To determine the location of the nails, the baseboard must be carefully lifted from the wall with a pry bar. When you separate the lath, the nails will immediately reveal themselves.
It’s even easier if the plinth is secured with self-tapping screws - they are simply unscrewed with a screwdriver.
Next, using the same mount, the boards are removed from the joists.
If they are in good condition and you plan to put them back, care must be taken not to damage them. The boards will also lift slightly from the joists, meaning the nails will also be pulled out a little along with them. Once they become noticeable, they can be easily pulled out with a nail puller. This way the board will remain intact.
When removing boards, it is recommended to immediately number them so that after repairing the joists they can be put back in place in the same sequence.
Cracked and rotten boards also need to be numbered, but put aside. This is in order to then make new ones from them and put them in place of those that have fallen into disrepair.
When the boards are removed from the frame, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the base. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to determine the cause of the squeak.
Next, a thorough inspection of the foundation and joists is carried out.
If cracks are found in the concrete base, it is recommended to widen, clean, prime and seal them. cement-sand mortar or special repair putty. The following work can only be done after the repair mixture has hardened.
If, upon inspection, damaged joists are found, they must be replaced, since, perhaps, it was because of them that the floors were creaking.
If the logs are located at too large a pitch, then it is best to add additional elements to the frame. The step between the lags should be no more than 600 mm. When installing them, you should retreat 80÷100 mm from the wall.
Old logs or new ones, in any case they must be leveled in the same plane. To level them you will need a long one, about 1.5÷2 m building level, or shorter and rule. The logs are checked for evenness of installation, both across the width and length of the room.
If it is necessary to raise them, you can use rigid gaskets required thickness or special adjustable anchors.
After the logs are aligned in one plane, they must be firmly fixed to the base. For this purpose, in joists and gaskets, as well as concrete base holes are drilled through which anchor or dowel fasteners are screwed or driven in.
If you had to completely reconstruct the floor, then it makes sense to insulate and soundproof the structure.
To do this, waterproofing material is laid on the floor surface and secured to the joists.
Insulation is placed on top of the insulating membrane - it can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam, slag or expanded clay.
By the way, for a private home, expanded clay will be the best option, since rodents do not live in it. It is especially good to use fine-grained expanded clay.
The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane, which will allow moisture to escape from the insulation and will not allow lint from entering the premises. mineral wool or dust from other insulation materials.
All film coverings are fixed to the joists using staples and a stapler.
Now you can move on to replacing the old boards and replacing some of them with new ones.
The boards must be mounted so that there is a minimum distance between them.
The installation begins with board number one. It is laid perpendicular to the joists and leveled well, as they will set the direction for all the other covering boards.
There should be a technological gap of 8÷10 mm between the first board (both along its length and at the ends) and the wall. This distance will help keep the coating intact during thermal expansion of the material.

If the board is attached to the joists using nails, it is recommended to hammer them in at an angle to the surface of the board, so the fixation will be more reliable.
Self-tapping screws are screwed in vertically. To install floorboards, you should choose self-tapping screws that have threads that do not reach their heads. They will more reliably hold the structural elements together.
In order not to split the board when screwing in the screws, it is recommended to drill holes for them in advance with a thin drill.
The upper part of the hole must be widened (countersinked) so that the screw head is flush or 1÷2 mm below the main surface.
The board is screwed with two or three screws to each of the joists.
The second and subsequent boards must be pulled together before fastening them.
In this case, the master used the technique of compacting the flooring with a spacer wedge. You can make a wedge yourself from timber by cutting it at an angle.
In addition to this, you will need a piece of board (thick plywood) against which the wedge will rest.
This stop is screwed to the joist at a distance of 20÷25 mm from the laid board with four self-tapping screws.
Next, a wedge is inserted between the fixed stop and the board.
A beam is placed on its wide side and struck with a hammer. The beam is necessary in order not to break the wood of the wedge with a hammer, since it will be needed to compact all the flooring boards.
When tapped, the wedge will move forward, attaching the last board to the previous one. When they are maximally connected to each other, the last board is fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws.
In the same way, all the floorboards are brought together.
If the last floorboard does not fit into the space between the penultimate board and the wall, it must be marked and the excess part cut off along its entire length.
The board should be marked at the place of its installation, taking into account that a technological gap should form between it and the wall.
It is advisable to make the cut at an angle so that the lower surface of the board is 8÷10 mm less than the upper plane.
This will create a ventilated space between the wall and the board.
Having laid the last board in place, it also needs to be pulled to the main covering. This process is carried out using a pulling clamp and a hammer. Once a minimum gap remains between the boards, the last floorboard must be immediately fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws.
Now you can check the floors for squeaks. To do this, you need to walk on it and press on the surface with your feet, applying force, especially in previously problematic areas.
If the installation is done correctly, there should be no squeaking.
After all the boards are returned to their place, it is recommended to sand the floors. This process is especially relevant when a thick layer of paint has accumulated on the floorboards over the period of use, which gives the surface an untidy appearance.
Grinding, or rather, scraping, is best done using a special machine. This device can be rented for a while, or you can invite a specialist to work with his equipment.
It is advisable to completely clean the floor surface from paint to bare wood.
Next, the floors must be treated with an antiseptic primer, which will protect the material from biological damage and create good adhesion for the painting layer.
Even if you plan to lay plywood or OSB on the boards, a primer will still not be superfluous.
Installation of the plinth is carried out after laying the plywood and decorative covering or before painting the plank floor.
How to correctly complete this stage of work is described in detail in a special publication on our portal.
* * * * * * *

Now, knowing the options for eliminating the unpleasant squeaking sounds that occur when moving on the floor, you can begin checking the plank covering. Then, having determined the cause of their occurrence, you can safely begin repair work, choosing the most suitable method.

It should also be noted that the complete reconstruction of a wooden floor is a long and labor-intensive process. And especially in those cases when you don’t know what awaits after dismantling the boards. Therefore, if the owners decide to carry out major repairs, then they should correctly evaluate their experience in this area of work and weigh their capabilities. Perhaps it would be wiser to entrust this task to professionals who will cope with such a problem much more quickly and competently.

In conclusion, we invite you to watch a short video in which a home craftsman shares his quick and effective method getting rid of floor squeaks.

Video: How to eliminate the creaking of a wooden floor yourself

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is dismantling the plank covering. First you need to remove the baseboards. If you plan to use them again, they must be removed very carefully. It is best not to pull on the plinth itself, but, having found the fastening nails, remove them with a nail puller. To determine the location of the nails, the baseboard must be carefully lifted from the wall with a pry bar. When you separate the lath, the nails will immediately reveal themselves. It’s even easier if the plinth is secured with self-tapping screws - they are simply unscrewed with a screwdriver.
	Next, using the same mount, the boards are removed from the joists. If they are in good condition and you plan to put them back, care must be taken not to damage them. The boards will also lift slightly from the joists, meaning the nails will also be pulled out a little along with them. Once they become noticeable, they can be easily pulled out with a nail puller. This way the board will remain intact. When removing boards, it is recommended to immediately number them so that after repairing the joists they can be put back in place in the same sequence. Cracked and rotten boards also need to be numbered, but put aside. This is in order to then make new ones from them and put them in place of those that have fallen into disrepair.
	When the boards are removed from the frame, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the base. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to determine the cause of the squeak. Next, a thorough inspection of the foundation and joists is carried out. If cracks are found in the concrete base, it is recommended to widen, clean, prime and seal them. cement-sand mortar or special repair putty. The following work can only be done after the repair mixture has hardened. If, upon inspection, damaged joists are found, they must be replaced, since, perhaps, it was because of them that the floors were creaking. If the logs are located at too large a pitch, then it is best to add additional elements to the frame. The step between the lags should be no more than 600 mm. When installing them, you should retreat 80÷100 mm from the wall.
	Old logs or new ones, in any case they must be leveled in the same plane. To level them you will need a long one, about 1.5÷2 m building level, or shorter and rule. The logs are checked for evenness of installation, both across the width and length of the room. If it is necessary to raise them, you can use rigid gaskets required thickness or special adjustable anchors. After the logs are aligned in one plane, they must be firmly fixed to the base. For this purpose, in joists and gaskets, as well as concrete base holes are drilled through which anchor or dowel fasteners are screwed or driven in.
	If you had to completely reconstruct the floor, then it makes sense to insulate and soundproof the structure. To do this, waterproofing material is laid on the floor surface and secured to the joists.
	Insulation is placed on top of the insulating membrane - it can be mineral wool, polystyrene foam, slag or expanded clay. By the way, for a private home, expanded clay will be the best option, since rodents do not live in it. It is especially good to use fine-grained expanded clay. The top of the insulation is covered with a vapor-permeable membrane, which will allow moisture to escape from the insulation and will not allow lint from entering the premises. mineral wool or dust from other insulation materials. All film coverings are fixed to the joists using staples and a stapler.
	Now you can move on to replacing the old boards and replacing some of them with new ones. The boards must be mounted so that there is a minimum distance between them. The installation begins with board number one. It is laid perpendicular to the joists and leveled well, as they will set the direction for all the other covering boards. There should be a technological gap of 8÷10 mm between the first board (both along its length and at the ends) and the wall. This distance will help keep the coating intact during thermal expansion of the material.
	If the board is attached to the joists using nails, it is recommended to hammer them in at an angle to the surface of the board, so the fixation will be more reliable. Self-tapping screws are screwed in vertically. To install floorboards, you should choose self-tapping screws that have threads that do not reach their heads. They will more reliably hold the structural elements together.
	In order not to split the board when screwing in the screws, it is recommended to drill holes for them in advance with a thin drill. The upper part of the hole must be widened (countersinked) so that the screw head is flush or 1÷2 mm below the main surface. The board is screwed with two or three screws to each of the joists.
	The second and subsequent boards must be pulled together before fastening them. In this case, the master used the technique of compacting the flooring with a spacer wedge. You can make a wedge yourself from timber by cutting it at an angle. In addition to this, you will need a piece of board (thick plywood) against which the wedge will rest. This stop is screwed to the joist at a distance of 20÷25 mm from the laid board with four self-tapping screws.
	Next, a wedge is inserted between the fixed stop and the board. A beam is placed on its wide side and struck with a hammer. The beam is necessary in order not to break the wood of the wedge with a hammer, since it will be needed to compact all the flooring boards. When tapped, the wedge will move forward, attaching the last board to the previous one. When they are maximally connected to each other, the last board is fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws. In the same way, all the floorboards are brought together.
	If the last floorboard does not fit into the space between the penultimate board and the wall, it must be marked and the excess part cut off along its entire length. The board should be marked at the place of its installation, taking into account that a technological gap should form between it and the wall.
	It is advisable to make the cut at an angle so that the lower surface of the board is 8÷10 mm less than the upper plane. This will create a ventilated space between the wall and the board.
	Having laid the last board in place, it also needs to be pulled to the main covering. This process is carried out using a pulling clamp and a hammer. Once a minimum gap remains between the boards, the last floorboard must be immediately fixed to the joists with self-tapping screws. Now you can check the floors for squeaks. To do this, you need to walk on it and press on the surface with your feet, applying force, especially in previously problematic areas. If the installation is done correctly, there should be no squeaking.
	After all the boards are returned to their place, it is recommended to sand the floors. This process is especially relevant when a thick layer of paint has accumulated on the floorboards over the period of use, which gives the surface an untidy appearance. Grinding, or rather, scraping, is best done using a special machine. This device can be rented for a while, or you can invite a specialist to work with his equipment. It is advisable to completely clean the floor surface from paint to bare wood.
	Next, the floors must be treated with an antiseptic primer, which will protect the material from biological damage and create good adhesion for the painting layer. Even if you plan to lay plywood or OSB on the boards, a primer will still not be superfluous.
	Installation of the plinth is carried out after laying the plywood and decorative covering or before painting the plank floor. How to correctly complete this stage of work is described in detail in a special publication on our portal.

Such an annoying floor defect as a squeak is unpleasant in any case. It can be caused by anything: initially incorrect installation, poor-quality material, split planks, loose nails, leakage, drying out of the parquet, uneven screed under the boards, which leads to misalignment at the joints. Something definitely needs to be done about this. Because not only is the creaking unbearable to the ear, it can also mean that the coating wears out quickly.

Anything with a wooden component will creak due to various problems. Descending price category- this is parquet, floorboard, parquet board, veneer board, laminate. How to ensure that the floor does not disappoint will be discussed further.

Option 1. Cardinal

Complete replacement of a wooden floor down to the base is an expensive and time-consuming option, but overall the most advantageous. The creaking will go away for a long time, and walking on the floor will only bring pleasure - physical and aesthetic. Especially if it's soft cork covering or self-leveling floor.

Option 2. Good old

If you don’t want to waste time and energy, you can do the simplest thing - buy a carpet. There are a great variety of them on the market - large and small, thick and thin, expensive and cheap. Having a soundproofing effect, this flooring option will slightly reduce the unpleasant sound. Naturally, the creaking will remain, but because of the carpet it will not be heard as much.

Option 3. Transfer

You can simply rearrange the boards yourself, or, much better, find craftsmen willing to take on this task. This is especially true if, due to a leak, the floors swell, the boards become swollen and rub against each other. There is no point in drying them and waiting for them to return to normal. The floor should be disassembled, the boards dried and re-fitted, after sharpening in some places. Or replace those that are no good at all. The process is long but effective.

Option 4. Backfill

You can eliminate squeaking without loss appearance boards and without serious repair work. If the boards rub against each other, then there are cracks and gaps. By pouring graphite powder with talc into them, you can reduce the level of squeaking to a minimum. Another idea is to drive in wedges to also close the gaps.

Option 5. Filled

The space between the boards and joists can be filled polyurethane foam so that the creaking disappears as soon as it hardens and fixes all the loose elements. But this option is very short-lived - with a strong vibration amplitude, the foam is still deformed and destroyed.