Separation internal space Bath construction is done using partitions. We will tell you about their types, features and structure in this article.

Designing partitions in a bathhouse

Before making partitions in the bathhouse, you need to determine the area of ​​​​the planned premises. Their sizes depend on the dimensions of the building and the number of regular visitors. Based on this data, the plan links the bulkheads to existing walls baths indicating axial dimensions. The location is then determined doorways and quantity required material.

The following can be used as partitions in a bath:

• Transformable structures - sliding, soft folding, rigid doors, sliding and screens.
• Stationary structures - brick, wood and glass partitions.

The type of planned partition depends on the requirements for it. If the bath space is divided for a long time while ensuring reliable thermal and sound insulation of the premises, durable stationary design partitions. In other cases, you can get by with mobile or collapsible versions, for example, to separate the locker room from the bathhouse rest room combined with it.

Each type of stationary bath partition has a number of advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account when choosing the type and material of manufacture of a particular structure. Since the main part of the bath bulkheads is stationary, there is a need to talk about them in more detail.

Features of a brick partition in a bathhouse

Brick partitions are made not only in stone baths, but also in wooden log houses. This is especially true in cases where the furnace door of the furnace is removed from the steam room into the dressing room or rest room, and the dividing partition is combined with the heating device.

Advantages and disadvantages of brick partitions for baths

Their advantages are due to excellent physical characteristics:

• Brick partitions have good soundproofing properties. Half-brick bulkhead structures have a “noise” insulation index of 47 dB.
• Brick is a moisture-resistant material. At quality device For bath ventilation, the appearance of fungus and mold on such a partition is unlikely.
• Brick bulkheads are fire resistant and inedible by insects and rodents.

The disadvantages include:

• Significant weight of the partition: with its thickness of half a brick, the mass of 1 m 2 of masonry is approximately 280 kg.
• Long production time for partitions made from piece material.
• The need to plaster the structure before finishing it.

The cost of 1 m 2 of brickwork is from $10 and above, the cost of work is from $7 per 1 m 2.

Installing a brick partition in a bathhouse

To construct such a partition, half-brick or brick masonry is used. Before starting work, you should stock up on: a sand sieve, a container for preparing the solution, a shovel, a hammer, a plumb line, a level and a trowel.

The installation process is carried out in the following sequence:

1. The work site is cleared of unnecessary items and provided with lighting and necessary materials.
2. The contours of the planned partition are outlined on the walls, floor and ceiling of the bathhouse.
3. From sand and cement sifted using a sieve, a dry mixture is prepared in a ratio of 3:1, for example, 2 buckets of cement are taken for 6 buckets of sand. In the container, the resulting mixture is mixed with water until it becomes uniform and has a plastic consistency.
4. Before starting work, the floor must be removed wood covering, and from the walls - cladding at the junctions of structures. Surfaces are cleaned with a wet broom.
5. To lay the first row of masonry evenly, a cord is stretched along its edges, serving as a guide for the location of the bricks. The mortar of the first row is applied to the base of the partition, and the second and subsequent rows - to the surface of the previous row and the end part of the brick. The verticality of the masonry is controlled using a plumb line and a building level.
6. The door frame in the partition opening is placed in advance and secured in it with the help of spacers, the brick is laid close to it.
7. The partition is laid with ligation of the seams in the vertical direction. To achieve this effect, the second row of bricks must be started by laying half of the product.
8. To ensure the strength of the masonry, every five rows of the mortar bed are reinforced with steel strips or rods.
9. Above the door frame, as a lintel, you can install a piece of channel 30-40 cm longer than the width of the opening.
10. The ceiling gap on the last row of masonry is eliminated by laying waste bricks soaked in mortar, small cracks are sealed with tow.
11. To lay communications in a brick partition, it is necessary to provide for the installation of embedded sleeves. The material for them can be pieces plastic pipes length corresponding to the thickness of the partition. The voids between the sleeves and the masonry are filled with polyurethane foam.

If the brick partition located in the bathhouse needs to be plastered, you don’t have to pay attention to the masonry seams. But if it will serve as a natural element of the design of the room, it is required to special tool jointing of masonry with special care.

From the outside washing department septums are usually covered tiles, protecting the brick from moisture. In the steam room, such a partition is insulated, sheathed with foil heat-reflecting and waterproof material, and then lined with natural wood.

Features of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Wooden bulkheads can be single, double or framed. For baths, due to their “extreme” operating conditions, frame-sheathing structures are more suitable.

Pros and cons of wooden partitions for a bath

The advantages of such partitions are very significant:

• The material used to make them is environmentally friendly.
• Possibility of making a frame partition in a bathhouse with increased strength, supporting more than 150 kg of cargo.
• Lightweight wooden partition. With a thickness of 150 mm, the weight of 1 m 2 of the structure is 90-92 kg.
• Good sound insulation, its index reaches 41 dB.

There are also disadvantages:

• Wooden structures are afraid of water, so they need waterproofing.
• The material of the partitions is edible for rodents and insects; impregnation of wood with antiseptics can eliminate this problem.
• Wooden partitions are flammable, their fire resistance is 0.2 hours. Partial protection impregnation of the partition elements with a fire retardant serves to protect against fire.

The cost of 1 m 2 of wooden partition ranges from $20 and above, it depends on the cladding material.

Construction of a wooden partition in a bathhouse

Let's consider the construction of a wooden partition between the steam room and the sink in the bathhouse. The step-by-step process looks like this:

1. Assembly and fastening of the frame. This is the most labor-intensive stage of the work. For the frame, timber 50x50 mm or 50x100 mm is used, its assembly is carried out on site. Two bars for the ceiling and floor, with a length of each of them corresponding to the width of the partition, are fixed to the corresponding structures using dowels. The same should be done with the bars for the walls. They are cut to the height of the room and fixed between the floor and ceiling bars in increments of 600-120 mm. The doorway is formed using transverse bars. For rigidity, it is additionally equipped with intermediate posts on both sides.
2. Insulation of the partition. Insulation is placed between the frame posts. The material for it can be basalt wool with a slab thickness of 50 mm and a width of 600 mm.
3. On the insulation side of the steam room, the frame is sheathed with foil, the heat-reflecting side of which should face the inside of the room. The material is stapled to the frame posts. The seams between the panels are taped with metal tape.
4. The insulation is covered from the washing compartment of the bathhouse waterproofing membrane type Izospan. Its fastening and sealing of seams is carried out similarly to the previous option.
5. Partition lining. To receive ventilation gap between the back side of the future skin and waterproofing layer Thin slats 15 mm wide are placed across the racks. The lining is attached to them. The same operation is performed from the side of the steam room using foil material. All wooden elements the frame must be treated with an antiseptic.

like this wooden partition can be installed in a bathhouse in one day.

Features of a glass partition in a bath

Unlike Soviet times, today's glass partitions are fashion element design with a variety of decorative solutions.

Advantages and disadvantages of glass partitions

Modern glass partitions in a bathhouse can be made from glass blocks - a kind of transparent “bricks” made of glass 6-10 mm thick. Their surface can be corrugated, smooth, matte, transparent and colored.

Manufacturing glass partitions has certain advantages:

• The partitions look impressive, are durable, strong enough, and fire resistant.
• They have good heat and sound insulation characteristics.
• They transmit light, for transparent blocks this value is up to 80%, for matte and colored products - up to 50%. The patterns of corrugated blocks give a bizarre play of light and shadow.
• The material of glass partitions can withstand temperature changes from -40 to +50 degrees. In the event of a fire, a structure made of transparent blocks can contain the spread of smoke and flame for two hours.
• Glass partitions are easy to clean and do not absorb odors; they are not afraid of rodents and insects.

Despite the outstanding advantages, there are also disadvantages of glass partitions:

• The internal surface of the partitions excludes the laying of any communications - electrical wiring, plumbing, etc.
• You cannot hang shelves or pictures on a glass wall.
• A separate block is not cut when installing the partition.

The cost of glass blocks depends on their type. Industrial products are the cheapest, their price is 40-60 rubles/piece. Colored blocks are more expensive - 160 rubles/piece. The most expensive are blocks with a pattern obtained by sintering glass different colors. Their price is more than 1500 rubles/piece. The cost of installing a partition is more than $20 per 1 m2.

Installation of a glass partition in a bathhouse

Installation glass partition For a beginner this is not an easy task. Used for laying glass blocks cement-sand mortars with a fine fraction of filler or “liquid” nails. There are two installation methods: adhesive cement mortar and into modular cells.

The first method is like leading brickwork, it is quite labor-intensive and time-consuming:

1. The base is cleaned of dust, debris and dirt, and then leveled.
2. The first row of blocks is set by level. Plastic crosses are placed between them to create seams of the same thickness.
3. The masonry is reinforced horizontally and vertically with iron rods with a diameter of 6 mm through two blocks. It is recommended to lay no more than 3 rows per day due to the weight of the products - the damp lower seams of the masonry may shift due to the weight.

The second method works faster. Cellular grids made of plastic, MDF or wood are attached to walls, ceilings and floors. They are then filled with blocks using sealant or rubber gaskets.

How to make a partition in a bathhouse - watch the video:

The question of bath partitions is quite extensive. We hope that the information provided in the article will help you choose a material and even make a partition in the bathhouse with your own hands.

Were finished, it was time to think about dividing the interior space into separate rooms. Total area The log house is 6x4 m, so I included a steam room, a washing room and a vestibule in the required minimum. The vestibule was fenced off during the construction process. It remained to decide how to separate the steam room and washing room. Having sifted through a lot of literature, I came to the conclusion that the easiest way is to make such a partition according to frame technology. Firstly, it is built very simply and quickly, I did it in 3 days. Secondly, the price was almost pennies. Thirdly, (very important!) the frame is light and practically does not load the foundation. I will describe how the construction was carried out.

Step 1. Assembling and fastening the frame

The most labor-intensive part of the work is assembling the frame from 50x50 mm bars. I decided to collect it immediately on the spot. First, the bottom beam (bottom frame) was nailed to the floor joists, and the outer posts were attached to it and the walls. The top beam (top trim) is laid and secured on top.

Installation of a timber partition frame

I would like to note that only 4 months have passed from the construction of the log house to the installation of the partition; shrinkage is still ongoing. Therefore, I left a gap of 2 cm between the top frame and the ceiling - to compensate for shrinkage deformations of the log house. The gap was filled with jute felt. All this was done in the expectation that when the log house shrinks, the ceiling level will drop and be set just at top harness partitions.

For greater rigidity, metal corners are screwed in at the junction of the side posts and the trim.

Racks were installed at 600 mm intervals, and an opening was made for door block and brick oven screen. It is important to note here that the stove is planned to be fired from the washing room, so its front part with a brick shield must be built into the partition.

All gaps between the walls, brick panel and frame beams are filled with jute felt.

Step 2. Insulating the partition

I decided to implement the internal filling of the frame according to this scheme:

Scheme internal filling and cladding of frame partition

As insulation, I used Technoblock Standard basalt wool (TechnoNIKOL) - in the form of slabs 50 mm thick. According to the manufacturer, this material must withstand heating up to 400°C, not burn or melt. Also, basalt wool is not hygroscopic, suitable for wet areas. Even if a drop of moisture gets into the partition (despite the vapor barrier), the inside will not begin to rot. Well, it is also important that basalt wool is absolutely safe for health and does not emit anything when heated.

The width of the wool slabs is 600 mm; when installing between the racks, they had to be compressed a little. A sharp knife was used to cut the slabs (if it was necessary to install parts, for example, above a shield, above a doorway).

Plates basalt wool between the pillars of the partition frame

Step 3. Sheathing the insulation with foil (from the steam room side)

On the steam room side, the insulation was covered with foil in 2 layers. I think foil is the best vapor barrier for a steam room. Firstly, it does not allow steam and dripping moisture to pass through. Secondly, it increases thermal insulation properties partitions (or walls), as they reflect infrared radiation.

The foil I bought turned out to be thin, so I decided to lay it in 2 layers. First, the first layer was shot and the seams were sealed with foil tape. Fastening was carried out using construction stapler, on the frame posts. On top, at intervals with the first layer (so that the seams do not coincide), the second layer is laid. The seams, holes from the stapler, and corners are also taped with tape.

When I unfolded the foil and then pulled it onto the frame, in some places it became thinner and began to wrinkle. There were no holes, but, for my own peace of mind, I also sealed these damaged areas with tape.

Sheathing the insulation with foil (vapor barrier) on the steam room side

The joints between the brick panel and the foil are heat-resistant silicone sealant(antifungal). This sealant dries quickly and bonds diverse surfaces well.

Step 4. Covering with waterproofing (washing side)

From the washing side, there is no need for foil; you can get by with waterproofing. To do this, I bought a roll of vapor-permeable membrane “Izospan A”. On the one hand, it will prevent splashes of water from the washing machine from entering the insulation, and on the other hand, it will allow the insides of the partition to “breathe” and be ventilated.

I secured the Izospan A sheets with an overlap to the frame posts. I covered the seams and holes from the stapler with tape.

Fastening sheets of waterproofing "Izospan A"

Step 5. Fastening the lining (from the washing side)

The paneling was done from the washing room side. Here I had some thoughts waiting for me. The neighbor argued that the ventilation gap between the vapor barrier and the lining is a useless thing, taking up space and not affecting anything at all. At the same time, a builder I knew proved the opposite. It seems like the gap allows condensation, if it forms, to flow down the vapor barrier and not be absorbed into the lining. I thought that this opinion was more sensible and made a mistake. Although, I'm not entirely sure of its necessity.

To organize the gap, slats are placed on the frame posts. Their thickness is the size of the gap. I used 15 mm slats and nailed them onto the posts using regular thin nails.

The top of the slats was covered with pine clapboard. To protect against moisture and add color, I walked over the surface with the antiseptic composition “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila) in 2 layers. The wood is tinted perfectly, the color is even and beautiful. Was bad smell from the antiseptic, after 3 days it completely disappeared.

Covering the partition with clapboard is done using thin slats

Step 6. Attaching the board (from the steam room side)

I decided to cover the partition on the side of the steam room not with clapboard, but with a board 35 mm thick. This board is used, once lay on the floor in the house. The floors have now been replaced, but the boards are still in good condition. Although it already looks pretty worn out, blackened, and stained. To give the board new life, I sanded it well grinder. Half an hour of work and top layer removed! The board turned out almost like new.

Again, a ventilation gap was formed, this time 20 mm thick. The slats for it were used with a section of 40x20 mm. I nailed the slats to the frame posts, and boards on top of them. All fastenings were made with nails.

After finishing the planking, the surface of the boards was covered with “Supi saunasuoja” (Tikkurila). The antiseptic dries quickly, I painted the partition in 2 layers in a day.

In the future, I plan to lay tile cladding 1 tile high along the bottom of the internal walls of the log house and the partition. This will prevent rotting of the lower crown of the frame and the partition, which are located in the humid conditions of the steam room and washing room.

This is what a frame partition looks like in a log bathhouse!

This is the partition I made in the bathhouse. Fast, inexpensive and without assistants. I’ve already had time to take a steam bath in the steam room to evaluate the quality of the fence. What do I want to say? The thermal insulation qualities of the structure are excellent; in 2 hours the bathhouse warms up completely. Due to the removal of the shield in the washing room, the washing room also warms up during heating. There is no condensation on the partition, the coloring composition does not change its color.

Frame partition good because it can be easily installed in any bathhouse. Be it in a log house, or in a brick or gas silicate structure. This design is universal, and its content can be changed depending on its purpose.

A standard log bathhouse (five-walled) consists of two rooms: a steam room and a washing room. It has 4 load-bearing walls and one partition. There are also larger buildings, it all depends on the financial capabilities and requirements of the owner. But in any case, the initially installed bathhouse frame can be partitioned at your discretion, increasing or decreasing the area.

The only question is, from what material and how to make the partitions?

This is what the frame of a wooden partition between the washing compartment and the steam room looks like.

Partition in a brick bath

The simplest option is to install a frame partition inside a brick bathhouse. Let's consider the option of distinguishing between the washing compartment and the steam room. First, a frame made of dried and treated wood is assembled locally. A thermal insulation layer of penoplex or mineral wool is laid inside. It is better to additionally protect it from moisture with plastic film or a foil membrane used specifically for these purposes.

Afterwards, the partition is finished according to the internal wall cladding. On the steam room side there is a lining that matches the overall design, and the washing compartment is also finished accordingly. If the wall is to be plastered, first fill a layer unedged boards, then a reinforcing mesh is fixed over it, after which the corresponding work is carried out.

The lining for finishing the steam room must correspond to the overall design. The material is dried and preferably from one batch. Mount it with clamps or small nails in hidden places. In the washing department, the plaster is applied in several layers; after the latter has dried, the tiles can be laid.

This is a partition option if the redevelopment began after the construction of the bathhouse. You can do it another way, and even at the time of designing the bathhouse, delimit the interior spaces, thinking through the layout of all the rooms. According to the type of foundation chosen, in addition to pouring it under load-bearing walls, it is also laid in places where partitions pass. After the construction of the bathhouse, they can be made of brick without bothering with assembling the frame and insulating it. But this option is more expensive, so for small baths made of brick, you can make prefabricated partitions.

A brick partition separating the stove from the dressing room.

Advantages of internal frame walls

This option for partitions has its supporters and haters. Some say it's like dressing cabbage. On the one hand, this is true. But on the other hand, relatively quickly and inexpensively you get a warm and reliable partition. After all, pouring a foundation is more expensive. And what should you do if you suddenly decide to redesign the location of the internal walls? Break the foundation?

This is the only one possible option for partitioning technical rooms in a bathhouse, such as a toilet or rest room. Frame structures you can separate the dressing room from the rest room or make a separate room for installation mounting block, from which the electrical wiring will go to the bathhouse. We can safely note the relevance and demand for frame partitions in all types of baths.

Waterproofing frame partitions with membrane film. It is laid on both sides.

Partition made of timber or logs

In this way, bath spaces are demarcated only in structures made of the appropriate material, and their location is worked out at the stage of building the bath. They lay it together with the crowns of the load-bearing walls, making a dressing. Under the internal partitions of a bathhouse made of timber, a foundation is required. They won't last long when weighed down.

The use of partitions of this type is in demand in several cases: firstly, in big sauna it is necessary not only for dividing the room, but also as additional support for the floors. It's kind of another one load-bearing wall. Secondly, the “five-wall” log house assembly method will allow you to connect the structure with an internal partition. And thirdly, to create a general interior. Do you agree that in a bathhouse made of timber, a brick wall will look ridiculous?

Brick partition separating the stove from the washing compartment with installed tank For hot water.

When is the best time to use brick?

Brick partitions are applicable in any bathhouses lined with similar material. The width is selected at your discretion, but given that this non-residential premises and sound insulation is not particularly needed, masonry with one stone is enough. Greater emphasis is placed on quality masonry mixture. It must correspond to indicators that are resistant to moisture. Partition connection with load-bearing wall produced by reinforcement. Every 4–5 rows, reinforcement is driven in and then the masonry is carried out in accordance with all the rules.

Brick partitions are often used in wooden baths. This is acceptable when the stove is heated from the dressing room, and you need to surround it with stone to create maximum conditions fire safety without compromising temperature reduction. In order not to interfere with the overall decor, the partition is made of decorative stone, and in some cases it is combined with a heater stove. Thus, the wall will also heat the dressing room.

Partial partitioning of the furnace with bricks is also often practiced. By the way, work on installing partitions is carried out only after the bath has completely shrunk, regardless of what material it is made of.

Building a bathhouse with your own hands requires thoughtful and calibrated actions. The partition in the bath between the steam room and the sink is extremely important.

To build it, it is necessary to correctly distribute the space in the bathhouse and select the right materials. In general, the construction procedure is simple, but you will need to carefully follow the recommendations.

This article will discuss various types of partitions and materials that were used in their construction.

Why do you need a partition?

The partition can also have a decorative character, becoming a design element

This structure is extremely important for a bathhouse. It has the following advantages:

• attractive appearance;
• high strength;
• good level of sound insulation.

In addition, the partition will provide in the steam room high temperature and comfort.

If there is no need for high thermal insulation, you can build a more simplified building. Below you can see a diagram of a bathhouse with a partition.

What is the partition made of? The choice of material is extremely important stage construction. The following options can be used:

• tree;
• brick;
• concrete.

A brick partition is placed in the bathhouse if a metal stove is installed in it. For doubles optimal solution wooden structures will become.

Partition for a wooden bath

It is advisable to do in wooden bath wooden partitions

Such buildings are built from various types wood Their assembly is carried out using the frame-panel method.

Experts do not recommend erecting brick partitions in a wooden bathhouse. Especially if the combustion will be carried out rarely. Since the thermal conductivity coefficient of wood and brick varies greatly, it will take a lot of time to heat the building, especially in the cold season.

It is better to make a partition between the steam room and the sink from different materials. If applied similar material, but with a smaller connection, difficulties may arise in installing the connecting nodes.

The optimal solution for the construction internal partition There will be a frame system in the bathhouse.

Frame partition

The holes between the frame bars are filled with insulation

A frame partition in a bathhouse is best suited for wooden buildings. To build it, you will first need to assemble a frame from dried wooden blocks.

Their dimensions are 50 by 50 mm. The hole between the bars is closed with a heat insulator.

The following materials can be used as thermal insulation:

• basalt wool;
• foam board.

Protect the insulation from moisture with a layer of polyethylene

To protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture penetration, it is covered with a polyethylene film. Covering with a waterproofing membrane would also be a good solution, although its cost is significantly higher than polyethylene.

Use stone decorative cladding highly not recommended. Wooden structures inside the bathhouse will need to be treated with an antiseptic. This will prevent the formation of mold and mildew on the walls.

Construction of a brick partition

The brick partition is laid with spoon masonry

How to make partitions in a brick bath? This material is quite common and is often used for the construction of buildings in the bathhouse.

The construction is made using half-brick spoon masonry.

To make work easier, some specialists use hollow material.

Preparatory procedures

Before starting work, you need to carefully prepare the surface. The plank covering is removed from the floor to the very base, after which it is cleaned with a wet broom. The place where the construction will be carried out is equipped with good lighting. Everyone is removed from the premises foreign objects and the outlines of the building are outlined.

To work you will need to prepare the following tools:

• level;
• sander;
• trowel;
• plumb line and rule;
• cement-sand mortar. For more information about the construction of a partition, watch this video:

Creating a partition

The first row of bricks is laid on several layers of mortar

The process of erecting a brick partition consists of the following stages:

1. A string is stretched and used as a guide. The solution is laid and leveled using a trowel. The level checks horizontality. You will need to wait until the solution begins to dry.
2. Another layer is applied on top of the dried mixture. After which the first row of brick screed is laid.
3. The mortar is applied to the end of the first brick, after which it is laid by pressing down. It is tapped and leveled according to the string; the remaining mixture will need to be removed immediately before it has time to dry.
4. If an opening for a door is planned in the partition, it will need to be positioned first. Installation is carried out using spacers door frame. The evenness of its location is checked and, if necessary, this parameter is adjusted.
5. The brick is laid close to the box. To tie the partition together, special metal strips are used; they are folded and attached to the side surfaces between the bricks. Instead of strips, you can also use reinforcing rods.
6. After laying the first row is completed, the brick is divided into 2 parts with a pick. One half is used to start the second row. The string that served as a guide is moved higher so that you can easily navigate. Laying the third row is carried out in the same way as the first. For more information about the process, watch this video:

Tying the masonry is an extremely important stage of construction, which will evenly distribute the load on the structure and significantly increase its strength.

Building any kind of partition between the steam room and the sink is a rather labor-intensive procedure.

Not every beginner will be able to do this kind of work on their own.

But, as a result, this will ensure high level comfort in the bathhouse, which is why the construction of such elements has recently become popular.

Even the smallest bathhouse usually has two rooms: a dressing room and a steam room combined with a washing room. But here the question arises: what kind of partition should be between them? Wooden or brick? And how to build it correctly from the point of view of heating the premises?

In this regard, we have home handyman may arise large number questions that we will try to answer in this article.

What you need to know about partitions in the bathhouse

Before building a partition in a bathhouse with your own hands, you should take into account a number of features. In addition, there are different requirements for wooden and brick buildings.

About partitions in wooden baths

Wooden baths include those built from timber, logs, or assembled using frame-panel technology.

Advice!
Experts do not recommend installation, especially if irregular operation of the building is planned.
The fact is that with internal brick wall you will need more time to warm up the room, especially if we're talking about about the cold season.

The construction of internal walls from the same material from which the external ones were erected is possible, but there is simply no need, which is explained by several reasons:

1. No indoor exposure atmospheric phenomena, therefore, equally thick and durable partitions are of no use here.
2. If you use a material of a smaller cross-section here, this can lead to problems at the joints.

Experts most often advise equipping internal walls using frame technology, since making a partition in a bathhouse using the frame principle is quite simple, and also economically profitable.

Frame walls have the following advantages over a traditional log house:

1. Price.
2. Less weight, and therefore less load on the foundation, which extends the durability of the structure.
3. Ease of operation.

At the same time, you get warm and durable interior partitions.

We build a bath wall using frame technology

Let's look at how to make a partition in a wooden bathhouse.

There are simple instructions for this:

1. For interior walls, we select boards about 5 cm thick and no more than 15 cm wide. Thinner boards may fail.
2. We form a sheathing from the boards with a step equal to the width of the heat-insulating mat.
3. We lay a heat insulator between the boards. Best to use for this mineral wool, since polystyrene foam is flammable and can emit harmful substances at elevated temperatures.
4. We stuff a waterproofing material on top of the plank frame.
   The following materials can be used as waterproofing:
   
   • Regular polyethylene film. A material with a thickness of 150 to 20 microns is taken.
   • Special waterproofing material, which has a foil side.
   • Penofol, which is a type of foam on which foil is applied on one side. This way you create an additional layer of waterproofing.

Advice!
Mineral wool is afraid of water, so it is necessary to reliably protect it with a waterproofing layer.
The strips are laid overlapping, taped with construction tape.

1. The last layer is mounted finishing material. Most often this is lining, which most closely matches the interior and microclimate of bathhouses.
2. The stove should be installed no closer than a meter from the partitions.

Advice!
If a metal stove is used in the bathhouse, you will need a brick partition, preferably even one made of fireclay blocks.
If the metal stove will be heated directly in the steam room, then the wall can be wooden, but it should be sheathed with non-flammable materials.

Partition in a block bath

How to make partitions in a brick bath? Here experts also recommend using the same frame technology.

There are several reasons for this:

1. Brick walls heat up more slowly, and accordingly, you will incur additional heating costs, especially in winter.
2. Condensation will settle on the brick or blockwork and will need to be drained somewhere.

Some professionals advise using magnesite sheets instead of boards.

They are made on the basis of perlite and cellulose fibers. They are fixed on vertical profiles, after which the installation described above is repeated.

Advice!
Such partitions can be constructed without insulation.
Here the insulating function will be performed by the air space between the boards.

It is best to use lining as a finishing for such walls.

Naturally, in brick bath you can create a partition from brick. In this case, it is best to use half-brick masonry, further strengthening the structure steel wire every few rows.

Advice!
Erect brick partition V wooden house it is possible only when the final shrinkage of the log house occurs.

Conclusion

Construction of a bathhouse is a very responsible process that requires a plan and must take into account a number of nuances. And since there are at least two rooms in the bathhouse, the question proper arrangement partitions is very relevant. The information presented above will help you build interior wall, without making mistakes, and the video in this article will offer you to see the obvious points of this problem.