Fillet is the professional name of the product, which we all know as ceiling plinth.

It is intended to hide the junction of the wall and ceiling.

After all, this is where the junction of the wallpaper on the walls and the material that was used to decorate the ceiling is located.

The range of fillets today is very wide.

They are made in various widths, shapes and colors.

To make ceiling plinths, different materials are used, which everyone chooses to suit their interior.

From foam plastic

The most common type of ceiling plinth.

Since the processing of polystyrene foam is simple, the cost of the product is reasonable.

The foam fillet has many advantages and disadvantages:

• foam does not turn yellow over time;
• the material easily tolerates changes in room humidity and temperature fluctuations;
• the foam fillet feels great both in the kitchen and in the bathroom;
• the weight of the product is very small; any adhesive composition can be used to glue it (you can use alabaster or putty as glue);
• No special tool is required for processing - a sharp construction or stationery knife is sufficient.

And, in principle, foam plastic has only one drawback - fragility.

Foam plastic ceiling plinth is used for finishing putty surfaces, plasterboard hanging systems, and false ceilings.

It can be painted if necessary water-based paint in any color.

Acrylic putty is used to seal the seams between the planks and the wall.

Made from polyurethane

Such products look like foam fillets.

But polyurethane is characterized by high density and good flexibility.

Therefore, polyurethane skirting boards are used where they need to be bent to a certain radius.

Polyurethane does not crumble or break.

Since such a plinth is a little heavier than a foam one, it is better to glue it with silicone or acrylic glue.

Regular polymer glue will also hold it on the ceiling, but you will have to spend a lot of time and effort on installation.

The cost of polyurethane fillets is higher than foam fillets.

But the quality is much higher.

From plaster

These are classic skirting boards.

Before the appearance plastic materials ceiling molding were made from gypsum.

But today this material is rarely used.

Mainly during restoration work in rooms where there used to be just such a ceiling plinth.

This product is very heavy and alabaster, putty or gypsum mortar is used to secure it.

Made from wood

The wooden ceiling fillet is rightfully considered one of the classic decorative elements.

But you should know that a wooden ceiling plinth will only be appropriate when the walls in the room have many wooden elements.

And these days this design is rarely used.

The adhesive solution is not suitable for attaching such baguettes.

Typically, screws or nails are used.

This product is more expensive than all other options.

And the installation of wooden plinths is quite complicated.

Exceptional precision is required, because there is no way to cover the resulting cracks with putty.

Made of plastic

One of the most popular types of ceiling plinths.

The kit includes fastening elements, the baseboard itself and corner elements.

The fact is that plastic ceiling plinths cannot be trimmed like products made from other materials.

Use internal or external ready-made corner connections, which allow you to get very neat and beautiful angles.

Another advantage of a plastic baguette is that, if necessary, it can be quickly removed from the ceiling.

Gallery

Installation of fillets for various ceilings

Installation of skirting boards begins from internal corners and external slopes.

There are certain installation specifics depending on what material the product itself is made of and what kind of ceiling is in the room.

For example, plastic ceiling and wooden baguettes are installed when the ceiling in the room is single-tiered and painted with water-based paint or whitewashed with chalk (lime).

The fastening of such fillets will be mechanical.

That is, using dowel-nails measuring 6x40 mm, which are installed in increments of 30-50 cm.

If the walls are made of natural wood or plasterboard, then wood screws are used.

Another thing is attaching foam or polyurethane baguettes.

Foam ceiling plinth can be glued to both the ceiling and the wall.

Its weight is light and even ordinary “liquid nails” will hold it very well.

Polyurethane skirting They are not glued to the ceiling, but only to the walls.

Because it weighs more than foam.

If you have plasterboard on the ceiling, then a foam molding is ideal for you.

Since in any case the plasterboard ceiling will have to be puttied, it is logical to also use putty to install the fillet.

Or you can use special glue such as “Titanium”, “Moment Montazh”, “Europlast”.

If you choose glue, you should apply a thin layer of adhesive to the back of the product, let it dry for some time and apply it to the desired location.

Apply the glue and place the element very carefully so that it does not get on the front part of the baguette.

If glue comes out from the joints, it should be removed with a clean, dry cloth.

After the glue has completely dried, all cracks, gaps and joints should be filled. acrylic sealant or acrylic putty.

And after the sealant has completely dried, you can finish the fillet surface.

The baguette is glued in a completely different way if the room has a suspended ceiling made of PVC film.

In some cases, gluing is not required if fastener There is a groove for a decorative plastic plinth, and the baguette itself is supplied included.

If such decoration is not provided, then a foam or polyurethane fillet is glued on.

But they only stick it to the wall.

In no case to the ceiling!

And here's why:

1. Stretch ceilings are usually made of synthetic material. And the glue contains various substances that can damage the ceiling material.
2. Surface stretch ceiling under the influence of drafts or water flowing from above from neighbors, it can move. If the baguette is glued to the surface of the ceiling, then damage to the material of the canvas may occur at the junction.
3. The glue layer after drying is slightly reduced in size. As a result, additional tension is created in this place. As a result, folds appear on the ceiling and such a stretch ceiling looks very ugly.

Usually the ceiling plinth is installed before the wallpaper is hung.

But in the case of a suspended ceiling this is not the case.

After all, installation tension fabric is the final stage of renovation of the premises.

Features of joining corners

Joining a baguette in the corners of a room is much more difficult than joining along the perimeter.

In order to perform this docking quickly and efficiently, you will need the following tools:

• stationery knife;
• hacksaw for metal;
• miter box;
• ruler;
• pencil.

A miter box (or jar) is a device that allows you to cut corners at 45, 60 and 90 degrees.

A very convenient thing!

But it often happens that the corner of the room is completely imperfect and does not fit any value.

Then you should make a stencil of the corner from thick paper or cardboard and then make marks on the baguettes on it.

Internal corner

First you should measure the angle between the walls.

If it is straight, then the ends of the joined planks are cut at 45 degrees.

To do this you need:

• install the plinth in the miter box;
• press the edge of the bar against the groove marked 45 degrees;
• cut the blade using a hacksaw or knife.

External corner

The outer corner is less common than the inner corner.

But it still happens.

They cut it in the same way as an internal corner, only the bar is placed in the miter box in reverse - if the long element is on the left side, then it should be cut along the left mark.

If on the right, then cut off on the right.

It should be said that if you have never worked with corners before this moment, then you should find a piece of plank (maybe someone has it) and practice with internal and external corners.

Video about ceiling fillet:

Modern home renovation is unthinkable without designer decoration. Decorative putty is applied to the walls, stucco molding is used in the decor, as well as various modern materials. It has become fashionable to decorate wall joints and fillets. What is it? Let's look at it in the article.

Functions of fillets

Almost none modern renovation cannot do without the presence of skirting boards, installed at the final stage of finishing the room. Fillet - baguettes with which designers can visually enlarge small room, make the contours of the room clear and expressive. Fillets also hide unsightly seams, joints and gaps between trim different types. Wiring, pipes and small repair errors are hidden under them. It is easy to install, so it is often used to create unique interior decorations.

Species

Fillets (what they are, we discussed above) are made from different materials. They are:

• foam;
• polyurethane;
• plastic;
• expanded polystyrene;
• wooden;

Each type of fillet has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Pros and cons

Foam moldings are easy to cut and quickly glued to both acrylic and gypsum putty. Perfectly combined with various types of coatings. Disadvantages - fragility of the material, intolerance to humidity, rapid flammability.

Plastic fillets are easy to clean and do not turn yellow over time.

They are moisture resistant and light in weight. But they are difficult to bend, so they must be mounted using self-tapping screws. Glue alone will not hold such a fillet. He is also afraid of high temperatures.

Polyurethane fillets are most often used for stretching ceilings. Used in rooms with complex architecture. The material from which they are made is incredibly flexible, so installation provides great possibilities when decorating and designing rooms. Polyurethane skirting boards are not afraid of temperature changes and various humidity levels. They can be painted in the desired color.

Wooden baguettes are used with lining, finished with MDF or chipboard. To install them, a certain room design is required. Since wood goes through several stages of processing, the price of wood fillets will be high. Wooden ones do not bend, thanks to the structure, the joints between the individual parts are not visible. They are easy to cut at any degree of angle.

Polystyrene foam fillets can be painted with water-based emulsion in any color. They can be easily cut with a hacksaw. But they have high rigidity, so they are practically impossible to bend. But dents do not remain on such panels.

The PVC fillet is installed together with the ceiling panels and has the groove necessary for joining. During installation, MDF panels are inserted into this hole. Such designs are good for use in bathrooms. They are moisture resistant and easy to clean.

Installation

What is a fillet? This is a plinth that is used to cover defects after gluing walls and finishing the ceiling with special materials. But it can also be mounted on putty before gluing the wallpaper.

Before work, you need to measure the perimeter of the room to be pasted, decide on required quantity material. The standard length of the plinth is 2 meters. The width must be determined so that it can cover the gaps formed after finishing the ceiling and walls.

When installing straight skirting boards without frills, it is better to use construction glue and, if necessary, strengthen them with self-tapping screws. If the wall has curvatures, then small space can be sealed with glue. He white, so it won't be noticeable. When installing fillets before wallpapering, the cracks are sealed with putty, and the rolled sheets are adjusted to the border.

Installation begins from the corner of the room. To make the work easier, you can use a ready-made corner. Before installing the plinth, you must thoroughly lubricate it with glue and press it against the wall, and remove any spilled residue with a sponge. Attach the following fillets to the installed curb. Carefully measure the remaining distance to cut the desired length. After installing the fillets, if desired, they can be painted in a color that matches the room.

Bathroom plinth

After the basics in the bathroom are completed renovation work, decorative little things remain, as well as cosmetic repairs. The main task is to ensure sealing of the joints between the wall and the plumbing. A bathtub fillet will help avoid troubles such as dampness and water getting on the floor. There are three types of borders suitable for bathrooms. This is a ceramic plinth, characterized by high hardness and strength; it is also not subject to deformation and the influence of cleaning agents. Cheaper than ceramic products, but also waterproof and airtight. They are convenient in rooms without corners and fit well around the circumference. The third type is self-adhesive borders, which contain sealant and silicone in the glue base, so they fulfill their intended purpose.

How to install in the bathroom?

The PVC fillet is installed on a dry surface. Therefore, the tile and the gluing area must be wiped dry. It is recommended to seal the cracks with a sealant in advance. To avoid damage to the bathtub with glue, its edges should be covered with fillets. Cut pieces of the required size, apply liquid nails, and press firmly to the tiles in the bathroom. Seal the remaining cracks and gaps.

Self-adhesive border tape is easy to install and does not require putty. For its installation, a flat and dry surface is required. Next, the roll unfolds, folding into a corner, and “sucks” to the wall and edges of the bathroom.

Fillets (we found out what they are in this article) for a bathtub require correct operation and care. Such borders will last a long time, protect against mold, fungi and pests, and also preserve the aesthetic appearance of the bathroom.

At the junction of the floor/wall structure, where two planes are connected at right angles, high stresses arise due to dynamic vibrations and thermal expansion/shrinkage deformations.

To compensate for the loads at the junction of the floor/wall and to prevent subsequent defects in the layers of waterproofing materials, a fillet is made.

Stress compensation by constructing a fillet using waterproofing repair material Resmix WDM and elastic waterproofing tape Resmix DW.

TECHNOLOGY OF WORK EXECUTION

Preparing the base

At the wall-floor junction, a groove is made to a depth of at least 20 mm.

The seam and joint surfaces are cleaned of substances that reduce the adhesion strength of the fillet to the base: dirt, dust, oil, grease, paint, rust. Peeling, destroyed elements and cement laitance are removed mechanically, water blasting or sandblasting installation.

Before installation, fillets, seam and joint surfaces should be matte-moist, without shine.

Fillet device

To fill the embroidered seam, waterproofing material Resmix WDM is applied to the wall/floor junction, with a layer width exceeding the width of the waterproofing tape by 2-3 cm.

A waterproofing tape is placed into the fresh layer and pressed in with a smooth spatula or roller. When laying the tape, avoid stretching, distortion and the formation of air cavities. The joints of the tape are laid with an overlap of at least 5 cm.

After laying the waterproofing tape, a second layer of waterproofing is applied to form a fillet measuring 30x30 mm with a rounding radius of at least 20 mm.

The subsequent application of waterproofing coatings is carried out by placing it on the created fillet.

It is necessary to provide moisture care for the applied fillet to prevent rapid drying of the surface and the risk of cracking within 24 hours under normal conditions, and when exposed to direct sun rays and wind within 48 hours. To protect the surface, it is recommended to use a special film-forming composition – Resmix NB.

resmix.ru

WHAT IS A FILLET AND WHY IS IT NEEDED ~ PROFESSIONAL INDUSTRIAL WATERPROOFING

A fillet (fillet) is a smoothed internal corner of a structure. Most often, it is performed only after the structure itself has been cast. It is best to make a fillet for waterproofing, since it is this that relieves stress from the waterproofing evenly over the entire area. The fillet size can vary from 20-100mm

photo from the website kttron.ru

WHY DO YOU NEED A FILLET UNDER WATERPROOFING?

The fact is that the internal and external corners of concrete structures are the “thin” places of any waterproofing. Both coating and sprayed with built-up. Let's consider the case of performing waterproofing with coating materials. If the inner corner is straight without a fillet, then it is practically impossible to process it without unpainting in one pass. And if there is a fillet on it, then the layer of waterproofing material will lie over it evenly over the entire width and length. On top of that, the fillet removes the waterproofing material internal stresses, arising in the process of gaining strength by the material.

With rolled welded and bonded materials it is even more critical, since it is almost impossible to fuse a roll at a right angle without the formation of bubbles. Which during operation can tear and lead to leaks precisely at the junctions of structures. Therefore, all external corners are always ground down to 30-50mm legs, and a fillet or fillet is made on the internal corners.

HOW TO PERFORM A CURVE CORRECTLY.

A fillet or fillet is best done in conjunction with embossing a seam. This means that if you plan to make a fillet for waterproofing on a cold or working concreting seam, then it is better to first make a groove measuring 20x20mm or 30x30mm in this seam, and only after that make a fillet. This will give you additional protection seam against leakage (passive degree of protection against leakage). After applying the base layer of the fillet, it is best to walk over it with a non-moistened brush or dampened glove to smooth out all the irregularities and it is especially important to smooth out the contact area between the repairman and the mother concrete. The fillet is best made from repair polymer-cement compositions such as:

LAKHTA® quick repair

LAKHTA® basic repair composition

LAKHTA® suture waterproofing

MasterEmaco N 5200

In cases where the fillet does not have high requirements for strength and adhesion, it can be made from ordinary cement-sand mortar grade M200.

FILLET ACCEPTANCE METHOD.

The fillet, which acts as a waterproofing embossing of the working seam, must be continuous and without visible cracks along its entire length. Boiling is not allowed.

The fillet, which only acts as a corner smoother, is checked only for geometric compliance with the project.

Interesting fact: the “clearest” fillet is considered to be the one in which a beer bottle lowered from a height of 200 mm does not make the sound of hitting the base.

WHAT HAPPENS IF YOU DON'T DO A FILLET

Here is an excellent example of the work on applying the material LAKHTA® elastic waterproofing without fillet and with fillet. As you can see in the photo, in areas of the treated surface without fillets, all the waterproofing was cracked in the very corner. But in areas with fillets, everything is fine!

RESUME:

It is necessary to do a fillet for everything waterproofing coatings.

The fillet is best done in the form of a fillet.

The fillet is needed to relieve stress from the waterproofing carpet and make it easier to apply waterproofing.

COST OF FILLET DEVICE

The price for work on installing a fillet without gating is 100 rubles/m.p.

The price for the work on installing a fillet with grooves is 300 rubles/m.p.

FILLET DEVICE

IN ST. PETERSBURG

bigpena.ru

what is it, features, types, installation:: SYL.ru

Quite often fillets are used in repairs today; you should find out what they are before visiting the store. These interior elements are a kind of plinth, and are located at the junction between the ceiling and the wall. At the same time, it is possible to hide errors that could have been made during finishing. The fillet is classified according to its material of manufacture and design, this will be discussed below, as well as installation work.

Features of the fillet

A fillet is a room finishing element that can be used to hide gaps and unevenness in ceiling-wall corners. With this product you can give the room a complete look. Fillets can be made from different materials, this allows us to distinguish several varieties. Galleys differ from skirting boards in that they usually do not have cable ducts, and their installation is carried out in the upper part of the room.

Main types of fillets

If you are interested in fillets, what they are, you should know. In order to answer this question, it is necessary to become more familiar with the materials used in these products. For example, foam fillets are the most common today, because their cost is reasonable, and installation can be done by hand. Such products can be installed in any room, it can be a bathroom or kitchen, as well as a living room.

Over time, the foam does not turn yellow; it copes well with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. Such fillets weigh very little, so any composition can be used to glue them, it can be putty, alabaster or construction adhesive. To cut such a plinth, there is no need to purchase a special tool; an ordinary sharp stationery or construction knife will be sufficient. The disadvantage is fragility.

Polyurethane fillets and gypsum products

If you also decide to use fillets in repairs, you should find out what they are. For example, polyurethane products are very similar in appearance to foam products, but polyurethane is more durable and flexible, so it can be used even on rounded surfaces. The advantage is excellent resistance to mechanical damage. In addition, such material does not crumble. However, there are also disadvantages, which are expressed in more impressive weight compared to foam, so silicone or acrylic glue should be used for installation.

Quite often when registering modern interiors fillets are used, what they are, you should find out if you also decide to follow the experience of the majority. Thus, on sale you can find gypsum products that are classic. They are not so common today, the reason is their significant weight, as well as the ability to install only on putty, gypsum mortar and alabaster.

Wooden fillets

One more classic version fillets are ceiling wooden products, but they are used quite rarely and only when the walls have wooden elements. These fillets have a plus, which is expressed in an attractive and elegant appearance. However, it is quite difficult to install which products, and you need to use screws or nails for this. The products are expensive, and the cracks that have formed have to be covered with putty.

Plastic fillets

A fairly common option today are plastic fillets; they come complete with corner elements, simplifying the installation process. The installation work will not be accompanied by difficulties, and even a novice home craftsman can cope with it. Such products are durable, they can be produced in imitation of various natural materials, it can be wood or marble.

Carrying out installation

Ceiling fillets must be installed according to a certain algorithm. For example, plastic and wooden skirting boards on single-tier ceilings, which have previously been whitewashed or painted with water-based emulsion, are installed mechanically; for this, you can use nails spaced 30-50 cm apart from each other. Self-tapping screws can only be used when the walls are made of natural wood or drywall.

You can simply stick fillets on the ceiling if they are made of foam plastic. Liquid nails are usually used for this. Polyurethane products are somewhat heavier, so they must be installed against the wall. In this case, when choosing an adhesive, you must consult a specialist. They usually recommend purchasing adhesives:

• "Titanium".
• "Montage".
• "Europlast".
• "Moment.

The glue is applied to the back side of the plinth, the composition is then left to dry for some time, only then can the fillet be glued to the surface. All gaps, cracks and joints on final stage filled with acrylic sealant or putty with the same composition. The main thing is to ensure that the mixture does not leak onto the front surface of the product.

Types of fillets for the bathroom

Bathroom fillets, the types of which will be presented below, eliminate the appearance of fungal infections and mold. In addition, it also plays a major role, expressed in decorating the joints of the ceiling and walls. Such skirting boards are usually made of plastic, so they can have absolutely any color. Bath fillers are usually made of polystyrene, polyurethane and foam.

The first option is good because it is safe for human health. The cheapest are foam products; they are quite easy to install and clean. The main disadvantage in in this case there is a possibility of destruction of the material under the influence chemicals. Bath fillers made of polyurethane are durable and flexible, as well as the highest cost. If we're talking about Regarding plastic fillets, they are usually made of foamed PVC or hard plastic. If we compare them with products made from natural wood and foam, then plastic wins in terms of strength and flexibility. You can install the plastic fillet using sealant.

Features of installing fillets in a bathroom

In order to determine required quantity fillets for a bathroom, you need to calculate the perimeter and divide it by 2. This will allow you to find out how many fillets you need to purchase, because each product has a length of 2 m. If you are thinking about the question of how to glue fillets, you should know that their installation is usually carried out a day after purchase, this is due to the fact that the material must adapt to room temperature. The location of the fillets should be such as to minimize the number of joints, this especially applies to the visible area. It is first recommended to draw up a diagram where each fillet will have its place.

Preparing tools for installation

If you have purchased a fillet for the bathroom, you must ensure that all necessary tools, among them:

• ladder;
• miter box;
• spatula;
• ruler;
• roulette.

Installation instructions

First, you need to place the baseboard against the wall to make sure that its width covers the entire gap. At the first fillet, you need to cut an angle of 45° using a miter box. Glue should be applied to each inner side; one side of the product will be attached to the ceiling, the other to the wall. As soon as the plinth is placed in the intended place, it must be pressed down a little, while ensuring that the product is not damaged. It is important to eliminate dents and dirty spots.

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Foundation waterproofing device Bitumen Bitumen-polymer

If you ended up on this page by accident, and did not come here from other sections of the b2bb2c.ru site, then please note that it talks about the construction of foundation waterproofing with liquid rubber.

This is a modern bitumen foundation waterproofing. Not to be confused with conventional bitumen mastics or bitumen-based roll materials. Liquid rubber consists of 60% bitumen, but this is the extent of the similarity with traditional bituminous materials ends. To learn more about the features of this material for bitumen waterproofing foundation read on b2bb2c.ru section Bitumen polymer emulsion on water based.

So, liquid rubber can be used to waterproof any type of foundation. But the most reasonable use is foundations on a monolithic slab. Those. where the volume of work amounts to hundreds and thousands square meters, where there is significant deepening, where a basement or ground floor is planned.

And because If the depth is large, the cost of an error increases, so a quality guarantee is necessary. It is for this purpose that bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with a water-based bitumen-polymer emulsion is excellent, i.e. liquid rubber.

On this page of the website b2bb2c.ru we will talk about preparing the base - foundation walls and slabs for their waterproofing with liquid rubber. Let's look at the example of a foundation based on a monolithic slab.

Installation of foundation waterproofing on a monolithic slab

The figure shows a sketch of a foundation waterproofing device on a monolithic slab. We see that horizontal and vertical waterproofing is being carried out.

It should be understood that the time interval between these stages can reach several months, because when horizontal waterproofing of a foundation slab is performed, there are no foundation walls yet; moreover, if everything is done correctly, then there is no foundation slab as such either. Remembering Woland’s words: “What do you have, no matter what you miss, nothing?” But don't rush, there is no mistake here.

A very important point is to tightly connect the horizontal waterproofing of the slab with the vertical waterproofing of the walls. Only in this case can you be sure that water will not get into the basement. And liquid rubber copes with this task perfectly, allowing you to obtain an absolutely sealed, seamless rubber contour outside the underground part of the building.

The figure also shows a close-up of the joint - the junction of the horizontal waterproofing along the base of the foundation and the vertical waterproofing of the foundation walls.

But before performing bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with liquid rubber, it is necessary to prepare the base - a concrete slab or concrete walls. The requirements for the concrete surface, foundation, roof, and floor are identical.

It is also very important that the foundation waterproofing device lasts for many years, to protect waterproofing layer from mechanical damage during backfilling or possible frost heaving.

For example, arrange foundation drainage using profiled membranes. They simultaneously perform two functions: wall drainage with moisture removal into the pipe and waterproofing protection. You can also use foundation insulation in combination with membranes. If the soil allows, then you can only insulate it, without drainage. Then the thermal insulation will also perform the functions of protecting the waterproofing. Read about all this in a special article on the website b2bb2c.ru

In the meantime, let's consider how to prepare the concrete surface before and in order to properly waterproof the foundation with liquid rubber. However, it is not necessary to use liquid rubber; these requirements for preparing the base are the same for all methods of bitumen waterproofing of the foundation. Those. also for rolls, and conventional bitumen mastic (heated or with solvents) and for cold water-based bitumen-polymer mastic (one-component liquid rubber).

Preparing concrete for foundation waterproofing

The base on which bitumen waterproofing is applied must be strong and capable of supporting this material. Preferably smooth. This does not mean that concrete should be like metal after grinding to class 8 cleanliness. Pores, cracks, small chips, scratches, roughness - all this is allowed. The good thing about liquid rubber is that it will “clog” into these defects and seal them hermetically. But!

If we are talking about shallow and not wide damage. Otherwise, cavities, holes, chips, cracks, and crevices must be sealed with mortar.

Protruding pieces of reinforcement should be cut down and sanded flush with the concrete. Protruding fragments permanent formwork Remove from PSBS, rub these places, level with solution.

Sharp corners- smooth out. On vertical walls, for example, trim with an axe. Ideally, make a fillet at the junction of the horizontal and vertical surfaces. However, for a foundation on a monolithic slab, you can do without a fillet, but the joint between the slab and the wall must be sealed with mortar so that there are no cracks or crevices.

Of course, dirt, dust, loose, crumbled particles, oil and grease, deteriorating and crumbling paint, all this must be removed.

The question often arises: how dry should the concrete surface be? The surface may be damp, but not wet. The simplest test is to touch it with your hand; if drops of water remain on your palm, you cannot apply liquid rubber. If the hand feels cold but does not get wet, then the surface is suitable for bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with a bitumen-polymer emulsion.

But still, on the topic of “water in the base”, which will be insulated with liquid rubber, it is recommended to read the section on b2bb2c.ru about why you should dry the roof before applying liquid rubber.

How soon after pouring the monolith can the foundation be waterproofed with liquid rubber?

Concrete must gain strength of at least 70%. In summer, at a temperature of +20 degrees C, this takes 7 days. If a fillet is made, then the criterion for its “readiness to accept liquid rubber” is that it does not collapse or sag when pressed with a finger.

On the topic of preparing walls when installing foundation waterproofing, we suggest watching a short video.

• You can see that the concrete walls are smoothed, cracks and holes are filled with mortar.
• The joint between the slab and the wall is covered with mortar. More precisely, if you look closely, you can see that a screed was installed on top of the horizontal waterproofing, and a screed was poured on top of it monolithic slab and walls. Those. horizontal waterproofing is not performed directly on the slab, but on the base of the slab, the so-called sole or lean concrete (see figure above).
• Fragments of foam formwork that were peeking out from the lower end of the “tooth” were removed and also rubbed with mortar.

What else interesting and instructive can you notice? For example, how to ensure reliable adhesion between the vertical waterproofing of a wall and the horizontal waterproofing of a slab that was completed a couple of months ago.

Tightness of the joint between vertical and horizontal bitumen waterproofing during foundation construction

You probably noticed that in the video the horizontal waterproofing of the foundation slab was done in a roll. And it took some time after that to fill the walls. During construction, the tongue of horizontal waterproofing, extending 20 centimeters beyond the vertical wall, became dusty and dirty. And now the liquid rubber of the vertical waterproofing of the walls should lie on this tongue.

It is this 200mm strip along the perimeter of the entire building that is the junction of the horizontal and vertical waterproofing. We remember that one of the components of high-quality adhesion of a liquid rubber coating is that the base is clean and dust-free.

The most correct and best solution– melt this “tongue” along the entire perimeter of the building. Not a trace remains of dust and cargo. The surface of the roll, which is also bitumen waterproofing, melts and becomes sticky to the touch.

A more ideal base for applying liquid rubber cannot be imagined: clean, heated bitumen. You can rest assured that along this strip along the entire building, the bitumen-polymer emulsion will lie down and stick to the roll so firmly that it will be impossible to tear off and separate these layers. They form a single whole - monolithic, homogeneous and absolutely sealed.

In addition to the preparatory operations described and shown on this page, there are other professional “tricks” to guarantee adhesion, tightness, and the same thickness of the waterproof layer over the entire surface when waterproofing the foundation. But more about this in other articles and videos on the website www.b2bb2c.ru from the Liquid Rubber section and the Foundation Waterproofing section.

Do it yourself or order a foundation waterproofing device with liquid rubber

If you want to carry out bitumen waterproofing of the foundation with liquid rubber yourself, then on the website b2bb2c.ru you will not only have a lot of useful, professional, and sometimes exclusive information regarding the technology, but also reviews on the topics of what equipment for liquid rubber can be bought in Russia, as well as prices and costs of liquid rubber.

But remember that just buy equipment and raw materials (even if you are lucky and buy correct installation and the right tires) - this is not enough. You need knowledge (you can get it by reading this site). You need a clear head and straight arms (this is how lucky someone is at birth). And you need experience. This is a profitable business. The SD Department's first experiments with liquid rubber date back to 2005.

Therefore, those who have to use liquid rubber to perform foundation waterproofing or repair or waterproofing flat roof for the first time, then be careful and careful. Remember that it is better to measure 7 times and cut once. Or - invite our specialists to show and teach you at the first site. Let's make 200-300-500 squares and then you will learn and learn a lot.

Pricing for waterproofing work by SD Department

If independent device You are not interested in bitumen waterproofing of the foundation, but need a reliable and professional contractor, then contact the company SD Department b2bb2c.ru. Our experience in liquid rubber since 2005 is a guarantee for you quality work on waterproofing.

www.b2bb2c.ru

Scope of application

This system can be used in the new construction of various public and residential buildings in which a usable ground or basement floor is designed. Distinctive feature system is the use of a two-layer waterproofing system, which allows its use in almost any hydrological conditions.

Composition and main characteristics of the system

Horizontal part:

1. Gravel layer – at least 100 mm
2. Concrete preparation slab – at least 100 mm
3. TECHNOELAST EPP 2 layers for protection against groundwater and capillary rise – 2 x 4.0 mm

Vertical part:

4. TechnoNIKOL PVC waterstop for sealing and waterproofing cold work joints
5. Reinforced concrete foundation wall - thickness according to the project
6. Transition side (fillet 100x100 mm) to ensure reliability of waterproofing when transitioning from vertical to horizontal surface
7. Bitumen primer TechnoNIKOL No. 01 for priming the foundation slab - less than 1.0 mm
8. Technoelast EPP 2 layers for waterproofing – 2 x 4.0 mm
9. Extruded polystyrene foam TechnoNIKOL CARBON PROF 300 as
thermal insulation layer - thickness according to calculation
10. Backfill soil

Main stages and principles of installation:

1. Construction of a soil cushion

Fill and compact a layer of gravel.

2. Preparing the base for horizontal waterproofing

Pour a concrete preparation slab with a thickness of at least 100 mm from low-quality concrete. Prime the surface of the concrete preparation slab using TechnoNIKOL bitumen primer No. 01.

3. Horizontal waterproofing device

• lay the material with overlapping sheets in transverse joints of at least 150 mm and in longitudinal joints of at least 85 mm;
• Rolling the roll towards you, melt the bottom surface of the roll using a gas burner.

4. Construction of horizontal and vertical foundation slabs

Before casting a horizontal foundation slab, it is necessary to protect the waterproofing layer using a protective screed or ACL sheets.

Arrange formwork, assemble reinforcement cage, install waterstops, pour concrete mixture.

5. Preparation of the surface of vertical foundation slabs for waterproofing

Clean the surface from construction debris, dust, cement film:

• produce the laitance film by dry or wet blast-abrasive cleaning;
• dry the surface, remove dust using a construction vacuum cleaner.

Prime the surface using TechnoNIKOL bitumen primer No. 01.

6. Vertical waterproofing device

Make transitional edges (fillets) at the junction of the vertical and horizontal wall at an angle of 45° from cement-sand mortar. The fillet height is 100 mm.

Fuse layers of TECHNOELAST EPP waterproofing material onto the prepared base:

• lay the material with overlapping sheets in transverse joints of at least 150 mm and in longitudinal joints of at least 80 mm;
• melt the bottom surface of the roll using a gas burner.
• when laying the second layer of waterproofing, the distance between the longitudinal overlaps of the first and second layers must be at least 300 mm, and between the transverse overlaps at least 500 mm.

7. Thermal insulation device

Install a layer of thermal insulation from slabs extruded polystyrene foam TechnoNIKOL CARBON PROF 300 on the waterproofing layer:

• place the seams between the thermal insulation slabs “in a running motion”;

Glue the slabs to the waterproofing using a special adhesive composition or by melting the surface of the waterproofing to a temperature not exceeding 75°C. It is also possible to glue onto hot mastic heated to no higher than 75°C.

In the plinth area (above the level of the blind area), the slabs are fastened mechanically using TechnoNIKOL telescopic fasteners at the rate of 6 fasteners per slab measuring 1200x600 mm.

8. Backfilling of soil

Pour sand or backfill soil into the free space between the excavation soil and the foundation.

Compact the soil in accordance with SNiP 3.02.01-87 “Earth structures, bases and foundations.”

System Specifications

tdalkor.ru

Foundation waterproofing STANDARD

· WELL-KNOWN TECHNOLOGY · HIGH SPEED OF CONSTRUCTION OF THE SYSTEM · EFFECTIVE PROTECTION OF WATERPROOFING · EASY INSTALLATION

Construction system Foundation waterproofing STANDARD

FOUNDATION STANDARD is the simplest and most common system for waterproofing building foundations. It is durable and easy to install, which is quick and easy. Reliability of waterproofing in this system is ensured through the use of a profiled PLANTER membrane

Scope of application of the FOUNDATION STANDARD system

This system is used for monolithic foundations, so for national teams - from reinforced concrete slabs. The main area of ​​application is buildings, the basement or ground floor of which is intended only for laying communications, and not for operation. The groundwater level must be low - only under this condition this system will be as effective as possible.

Installation of the FOUNDATION STANDARD system

The waterproofing system FOUNDATION STANDARD is maximum simplicity and high speed installation At the same time, the use of this system guarantees reliable and durable protection of the foundation from moisture, which means it will last much longer.

Preparing the base

For foundation waterproofing to be effective and durable, it is very important to properly prepare the foundation. The base is considered prepared, which is first cleaned of dirt, and then all cracks or joints of reinforced concrete slabs are sealed with cement mortar. After all defects have been eliminated, a bitumen primer should be applied to the surface of the foundation as a primer. It will improve the condition of the base, remove dust from it, and improve the adhesion of the foundation surface to the waterproofing material. Be sure to wait until the primer layer has completely dried.

Applying a waterproofing layer

This system uses for waterproofing bitumen mastic bitumen mastic. The best option will choose the mastic that is applied cold. To apply mastic, use any convenient tool - brush, brush. Alternatively, instead of mastic, you can use a built-up waterproofing roll material, but in this case, preparing the base, in addition to priming it, will involve additional leveling (plastering).

Additional work

The PLANTER membrane is fixed over the waterproofing. It will reliably protect the waterproofing from stress and damage. The profiled membrane should be attached so as not to damage the integrity of the waterproofing. For this, it is best to use special adhesive mixtures. The membrane spikes should face the wall.

Completion of work

After fixing the profiled membrane, the foundation can be covered with soil; it is reliably and permanently protected from moisture.

What allows you to save money

Due to the fact that this foundation waterproofing system is carried out quite quickly and quite simply, you get the opportunity to significantly reduce your costs for protecting the foundation, and at the same time not lose in quality and reliability.

www.hidroizol.ru

Epoxy-based fillet - Polimersts.ru

Epoxy self-leveling flooring is a progressive coating option, indispensable in industrial complexes, hangars and warehouses. Such surfaces are impervious to mechanical loads and the effects of aggressive compounds. Supplement polymer coatings fillets become epoxy-based. Their purpose is to seal the seams between floor covering and a wall.

Purpose and properties of epoxy fillets

The voids that remain after installing the floors around the perimeter and near the columns should be filled. This point is of particular importance in catering establishments and in the pharmaceutical industry, where there are increased requirements for the cleanliness of premises. Sealants for filling junctions between a wall and a polymer floor cannot be used in all situations.

By effective means Epoxy-based fillets are recognized for filling floor-to-wall junctions. They are widely used in factories and warehouses. The thoughtful shape of the material guarantees the quality of cleaning and increases the cleanliness of the room.

Advantages of fillets

Having the same positive characteristics as conventional fillets, epoxy varieties acquire a number of advantages unique to them. Such indicators determine the inclusion in the composition epoxy resins and their derivatives.

Industrial floors with epoxy fillets at junctions:

• safe for human health and environment;
• hygienic;
• easy to use;
• strong and durable;
• not subject to combustion.

You can order the installation of fillets for floor-to-wall junctions from the Polimerstroyservice company.

Ceiling plinth, or, as professionals working in the construction industry call it, fillet, is designed to prevent the gap between the ceiling and the top edge of the wallpaper from being visible. Currently, you can buy ceiling fillets in various shapes, widths and several colors. Wooden or plastic edging is installed around the entire perimeter of the room. This is much easier to do than aligning the corners of a room.

Some property owners prefer to use a border - a strip of contrasting color in relation to the wallpaper. It visually differentiates the surface of the ceiling from the walls. If you look at the photo of ceiling fillets, you can see how with their help the interior of a room is transformed, since it is given a certain style.

Types of ceiling fillets

Thanks to existence various types skirting boards, numerous options for decorating the ceiling appeared. The main way they differ from each other is the material of manufacture.

PVC skirting boards. Plastic ceiling fillets made of polyvinyl chloride are used, as a rule, when decorating the surface with a homogeneous PVC lining. They allow you not only to decorate the ceiling plane, but also serve as a profile for attaching finishing material using screws or mounting brackets.

Foam fillets . As the name implies, they are made from polystyrene foam - a material that is inexpensive and easy to process, which has a number of advantages and disadvantages. First of all, over time the material does not turn yellow; it can easily withstand temperature fluctuations and constant changes in humidity levels. Foam plastic fillet ceiling plinth can be installed in bathrooms and kitchens. It is lightweight - any adhesive composition easily holds it, and to cut the product you do not need a special tool - this can be done with any sharp knife. The main disadvantage of polystyrene foam is its fragility.

Thus, a ceiling plinth made of this material at a minimum cost has a decent appearance. It is intended for finishing surfaces putty on a concrete base, suspended plasterboard systems, and false ceilings. The foam baguette is attached to a gypsum mortar in the form of putty or alabaster (more details: " "). If necessary, it can be easily painted in any color. Foam fillets adhere remarkably well to white acrylic putty; it can also be used to simultaneously seal the seams between the wall and the baseboard strips.

Polystyrene foam skirting boards . Ceiling fillets made of polystyrene are used for interior decoration any premises, they are ideally combined with wall painting, wallpaper and adhesive ceiling tiles. or gypsum mortar.

Polyurethane . Polyurethane ceiling fillets are made from durable raw materials. Their surface does not generate dust, does not absorb foreign odors, is easy to clean, and does not absorb moisture. They are much lighter than gypsum products.

According to experts, polyurethane ceiling fillets, which can be bought without problems in building materials stores, - great solution for the kitchen or bathroom. Such skirting boards have no problems with fastening. If necessary, the ceiling fillet made of polyurethane can be painted in any color or given the desired shade. Experts distinguish two conventional types of such skirting boards: smooth and patterned.

The price for polyurethane ceiling fillets is higher than for foam products, but they are more elastic - they can be bent to a radius at which the foam will burst. does not break or crumble, which is of no small importance during installation plasterboard structures with many bends.

Wooden fillets . wooden is considered classic element decor. A wooden molding on the ceiling would be appropriate if it is finished natural wood, which is currently not as common as other types of ceiling surface finishing. Mounting method wooden skirting boards quite diverse: metal and wooden nails, glue, screws are used.

Wooden ceiling fillet, which has a higher price than other types of ceiling plinths, is also the most difficult to process and install. Moreover, the spread in cost between simple baguettes made from pine wood and carved products made from valuable wood is tens of times.

They are cut with a hacksaw and processed with a file to adjust the joints. It is better to mount baguettes made of natural wood not with an adhesive composition, but with special fasteners or wooden blocks placed on the wall at half-meter intervals.

If there are fillets on the surface beautiful texture special attention You should pay attention to adjusting the corners, since even putty that perfectly matches the color will still be noticeable against the background of the wood texture. Wooden skirting boards cannot be installed in rooms with high humidity and variables temperature conditions. These unfavorable factors will disrupt the geometry of the manufacturing material, as a result of which the fillets will become deformed, and moisture will lead to the process of rotting. Wood products treated with antiseptics and varnished are less susceptible to these phenomena, but they should still not be installed in the kitchen and bathrooms.

Often in rooms with high ceilings use fillets of a contrasting color - for example, textured skirting boards look amazing bog oak, against the background of a glossy snow-white ceiling. Designers use the following technique - in the room where wooden moldings are supposed to be installed, several decorative elements of the same color are created in the interior.

Installation of fillets

Installation of foam and expanded polystyrene baguettes on the ceiling is carried out without problems and unnecessary difficulties: using a pencil, the edge of the plinth is outlined on the wall, after which an adhesive composition is applied to the surface of the product, and it is pressed tightly to the intended location. In order to avoid problems with fitting corners and simplify the installation process, you can purchase ready-made external and internal corners, and they may have a relief surface that allows them to protrude independent elements decor. If there are no corners to adjust the corners, you should use a carpentry tool called a miter box - with its help, the baguette is cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

The best ceiling fillets for suspended ceilings are wide moldings that are attached exclusively to the walls, since it is impossible to glue skirting boards to such ceiling systems (their design is not rigid), since the adhesive composition can not only warp PVC film, but also damage it. The length of the bar is inner corner measured from the adjacent wall, and in the outer wall - from the corner towards the depth of the room.

When installing on the ceiling, the plinth should be positioned in such a way that if it has to be moved, it should be done not towards the wall, but towards the center of the ceiling, so as not to smear the ceiling surface with glue.

The ceiling plinth, also known as a fillet, is designed to close the gap between the ceiling and the upper edge of the wallpaper, that is, it hides the junction of the ceiling and the wall, making, as they say, the overall picture much more attractive. Just like ceilings, fillets can be different, both in design and material, which in turn determines the method of its fastening. But first things first.

Fillet, what it is and the main types.

The fillet is an additional element of room decoration. It allows you to hide possible gaps and irregularities in the ceiling-wall corners, which gives the room a neat, finished look.

Ceiling plinths are made from different materials; accordingly, several types of fillets can be distinguished:

Foam fillets.

The most common. It is very easy to work with them, therefore the cost of products of this type is more than acceptable, and this is not the only advantage of foam ceiling plinths:

1. such fillets are suitable for installation in any room - both in the kitchen and in the bathroom;
2. polystyrene foam is not prone to yellowing over time; it tolerates temperature and humidity fluctuations well;
3. the weight of the product is very small, so almost any adhesive composition (glue, alabaster, putty) is suitable for gluing;
4. cutting such a plinth does not require availability special tools, simple enough sharp knife construction or office.

Flaws.

• fragility.

Polyurethane fillets.

Externally this type very similar to foam products, however, polyurethane is a much more flexible and durable material, which is why it is used where the ceiling/wall is rounded.

Pros.

1. polyurethane does not break or crumble,
2. it bends well.

Cons.

1. the named material is heavier than polystyrene foam, so it must be glued with acrylic or silicone glue;
2. the cost of a polyurethane fillet is higher than its foam counterpart.

Gypsum ceiling plinth.

The classic type of plinth, which was the main one until plastic products appeared on sale.

Today this type of fillet is not as common as it used to be. The reason is the significant weight of the gypsum plinth, the possibility of installing it only on putty, alabaster or gypsum mortar.

Wooden ceiling fillets.

Also refers to the classic type of plinth. Today it is used quite rarely, most often when the walls have many wooden elements.

Pros.

• always look elegant and “rich”.

Cons.

1. complex installation (using nails and screws);
2. high cost;
3. inability to cover the resulting cracks with putty.

Plastic ceiling plinth.

Another very common option today. It is produced immediately complete with corner elements and fastening elements, so installation, dismantling and repair with such skirting boards is a matter of minutes.

How to glue fillets correctly?

Installation of fillets should be carried out based on several key points: what material the plinth is made of and what kind of ceiling the room has.

Wooden and plastic skirting boards in a room with a single-tier ceiling, painted with water-based emulsion or whitewashed with lime, are fastened mechanically using dowels-nails (6x40 mm), installed in increments of 30-50 cm. Self-tapping screws are used here only if the walls are made of plasterboard or natural wood.

The foam fillet is quite light, so such a fillet can simply be glued to the ceiling and wall with any adhesive, you can even use ordinary “liquid nails”. Polyurethane plinth is heavier, so it should only be mounted to the wall. In this case, it is better to consult a specialist about glue. As a rule, it is recommended to use glue such as “Moment Installation”, “Titanium”, “Europlast”. The glue is applied to the back side of the plinth in a thin layer, then it is allowed to dry a little, and then the fillet is glued to the desired location. The last step is to fill all cracks, gaps and joints with acrylic sealant/acrylic putty. The main thing is to do everything carefully so that nothing leaks onto the front side of the product.

A few words about the peculiarities of joining corners.

To perform it well, you will need:

• ruler and pencil, sometimes also cardboard;
• stationery knife;
• miter box;
• hacksaw for metal.

Using a miter box, you can quickly and evenly cut angles of 45, 60 and 90 degrees, but if your angle does not fit any of these values, do not be discouraged - there is always a way out! Take a piece of thick cardboard and cut out a stencil of the angle you need. Then attach this stencil to the fillet and make the appropriate marks.

Let's consider the most common option - when the ceiling plinth needs to be laid in a rectangular corner. If this angle is internal, the ends of the joined planks are cut at 45 degrees (90/2=45). To do this:

• install the fillet in the miter box so that it is tightly adjacent with its edges to the walls of the miter box (the slightest shift, and flat angle you won't receive);
• the edge of the strip is applied to the groove with a mark of 45 degrees;
• cut the canvas with a knife or hacksaw.

In case of working with outer corner, all work is carried out in the same way, only the plank in the miter box is placed in the opposite way: a long element on the left side - which means it is cut off along the left mark, on the right - along the right mark.

One way or another, before you start cutting large baguettes, we recommend that you practice cutting corners on an unnecessary piece of plinth in order to “get your hands on it.”

What to do if the fillet is larger than the miter box?

1. Measure the side that is adjacent to the ceiling and mark this distance on the “bottom” of the miter box.
2. Align the ceiling plinth along the outlined line and fix it (you can do it by hand, you can use a suitable sized embedding material).
3. Perform pruning according to the rules given above.

Other methods of cutting/joining corners.

Method number 1 is modern.

The simplest and fastest. Suitable for all those who have a miter saw (circular end saw) circular saw) and a protractor.

1. Use a protractor to measure the angle.
2. Round the resulting number to an even number and divide by 2. This way you will get the degree at which the trimmer should be set.
3. Place the fillet in the tool and file down its edge with a saw.
4. Take the second, adjacent, ceiling plinth, but install it in the trim not with right side, as it was with the previous one, but with the left. And make the cut again.

Method number 2 is creative.

1. Take a sheet of A4 paper.
2. Attach it to the corner and bend it where the ceiling meets the wall.
3. For convenience, trim off the excess.
4. Bend the resulting corner in half. The resulting bend is the cutting line you need.
5. To minimize the error, place a rectangular object along the edge of one of the sides of the corner of the bent sheet; you can use the same miter box.
6. Place the fillet at the junction of the sheet and this object in the same way as it will be located on the ceiling.
7. Holding the baguette firmly in your hands, make a cut along the line.
8. Do the same steps, moving the object (miter box) to the second side of the sheet.

Video about joining corners.

How to glue fillets to a suspended ceiling?

Taking into account the known features of a stretch ceiling, the technology for installing fillets on it is somewhat different from that presented above.

• The fillet is brought to the installation site and marks are made in the area of ​​the corners on the walls and ceiling. Using a tapping cord, the markings are transferred to the entire perimeter of the room.
• Using any of the methods described above, two ceiling plinths are adjusted to an angle.
• Glue or putty is applied to the edge of these fillets adjacent to the wall.
• According to the marks made at the beginning, the ceiling plinths are glued to the walls and carefully pressed down. Use a spatula to remove any excess glue that has come out.
• Next, the remaining baguettes are glued. If the fillet has to be adjusted to any size, then the first step is to make an angular cut. Then the plinth is driven into a corner (into its seat), applied to the wall along the line marked at the very beginning until it overlaps with the already glued element. In this place, the fillet should be cut, but not flush, but with a margin of 1 mm, otherwise you risk getting a gap in the most visible place.
• But even if you do everything perfectly, you will get a small “rice” at the junction. Without eliminating it, you will not be able to get a perfect ceiling border. There is only one way to hide it - using putty, which should be applied in a thin layer to the joint to the width of a spatula.

Remember: you won’t be able to disguise a “hole”, even a small one, this way the first time, because... after drying, the putty will simply settle in it, so if there are such defects, you will have to putty several times. So don’t be afraid and overlap more: it’s easier to cut it off a little later with a stationery knife than to think about how to hide the gap.

• The job is almost finished, all that remains is to sand the putty areas and paint the ceiling plinth. To avoid staining the ceiling, we recommend using a simple A4 sheet folded in half. Slide it between the ceiling and the fillet, paint the baseboard overlapping to a length of no more than a meter. Push the used sheet of paper forward a little (this way you will get perfect edges) and paint the fillet with a second layer, after applying which it is better to remove the paper so that it does not have time to stick to the baguette, otherwise you will have to tear it off along with it.

And so, one meter at a time, you move forward until you have completely painted the perimeter.

Video instructions.