Efficiency heating system apartment or private house depends not only on the power of the heat sources. Correct installation Heating radiators will reduce the cost of heating the room, make it more productive and improve the microclimate.

Regardless of what system you use, whether autonomous or centralized, where the radiator will be located - in an apartment or house, the rules for installing heating radiators are the same. There are three options for radiator placement:

Types of heating systems

There are three options for radiator connection systems - serial, single-pipe, two-pipe and collector (parallel). They differ in the wiring diagram. Depending on what system is installed, it is necessary to select the type of batteries. It is important to remember that incorrect connection of heating radiators leads to a decrease.

Correct installation of heating radiators in a niche

It happens that in apartment buildings there is a niche for old cast iron radiators. This method of installing heating batteries is ineffective, but sometimes there are no other options. Therefore, let's consider it too.

• The distance between the side and back walls The niche to the radiator should be at least 5 cm.
• Air access from below should not be difficult, as well as its exit from above. The distance from the bottom and top of the radiator to the walls should be more than 10 cm.

Decorative lattice should promote convection. An overlay made of diagonal strips is best suited. It is better not to cover the gap in the lower part of the radiator with a grille to ensure optimal air convection.

If the niche is made in a parapet located along the wall, it top part better close decorative grille, and not a continuous overlay.

The battery in the niche under the window should be located so that there is a distance to the window sill. It should be twice as large as the window sill protrudes from the wall. For example, if the window sill extends 15 cm beyond the wall, the distance from it to the niche should be 10 cm.

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The radiator in the niche under the window should be positioned so as to ensure good air convection. There should be at least 10 cm between its top and the edge of the niche.

How to properly install a battery under a window

The greatest heat loss occurs through windows. Therefore, correct installation of the battery under the window is especially important.

• The radiator must be located exactly in the middle of the window - so it will cut off cold air and will not allow it to spread throughout the apartment.
• The installation height of the radiator from the floor should be 5-10 cm. If the gap is larger, a layer of cold air will form. If less, it will be difficult to clean under the battery.
• The distance from the wall should be at least 5 cm so as not to impede air convection. Otherwise, the battery will heat the wall of the building and not the room.

If the radiator is equipped with air cutoffs (see photo), the distance from it to the window sill should be more than 5 cm. If the window sill is wide and protrudes beyond the radiator, for every 1 cm of this difference you need to add 2 cm to the gap between it and the battery.

For radiators without an air cutter, the minimum distance to the window sill is 10 cm plus 3 cm for every 1 cm of protrusion. Installing heating radiators under the window close to the window sill will interfere with air convection. And this will lead to a decrease in heat transfer.

When starting renovations in your apartment or house, at a certain stage the question arises of how to hide the batteries. In fact, you can do it yourself, and not spend additional money on builders.

What to consider when masking a battery

Before you start masking, you need to know a few important nuances:

• The first thing you need to understand is that with any method there will be heat loss.
• Convection air flows should not be blocked by anything; this is the only way to maintain uniform heating of the room, and the windows will not fog up.
• For various emergencies, it is worth considering in advance free access to threaded connections and the radiator - this could be a window or a removable structure, for example, a door with hinges.
• For repairs, the tap, thermal head and other elements of the heating system must remain in good accessibility.

The best ways to beautifully hide radiators

There are several ways to hide batteries; in this section we will look at the most popular and effective ones.

It is by far the most practical and popular method; most often this design is made of metal and has its advantages:

• simple installation;
• heat exchange remains the same;
• can be made with rounded corners, which reduces the risk of injury.

Glass screens

A screen made of glass will become interesting and stylish solution, especially for those who choose minimalism or modern style in interior design. Photo printing or various patterns can be applied to the glass, but this method is not budget option. Installation is carried out on a screw holder, but you will have to drill holes in the wall. However, the heating radiator will be stylishly protected. This option will fit into any interior.

Box screens

Box screens are great option for decorating radiators.

• They will help to completely hide the battery.
• The box can become a piece of furniture.
• Erans are easy to install and easy to care for.
• Protect from burns or other injuries.

The photo shows an original green wooden box in the children's interior.

Let’s not forget about the most popular way to hide batteries - simply hang them with opaque or translucent curtains. Using this method, over time you will even forget that there are pipes and a radiator behind the curtains. The main thing is to choose curtains that will look harmonious and not show everyone that there is something behind them.

Painting the walls in color

How to hide a heating radiator on the wall if other designs are “prohibited”. There is only one way to paint it the same color as the wall.

Wood frame

Wood will create coziness and warmth in the apartment, and the camouflage of the battery will be elegant and beautiful. This option is for those who are furnishing their home in eco-style using natural materials. These ways to hide batteries can be used as a stand for home decor.

In the photo they are normal wooden blocks stylishly hide the battery in the kitchen.

Built-in furniture

Another common way to cover a radiator is custom-made furniture or built-in furniture (shelves, cabinets, folding tables, seating).

Hide the radiator with furniture

Arrange furniture, such as an armchair or desk, so that it covers the battery. A cast iron radiator is not attractive to many, but pieces of furniture can hide it.

Replace with designer model

For those who don’t want to invent anything, unique designer ways to hide batteries have been developed that already initially have a beautiful appearance and you simply don’t want to hide them.

Original ideas

There are many creative ideas, which can turn batteries into a decorative element:

• Forged products

• Painting and decoupage of batteries

In the photo, with the help of a beautiful painting, the battery has merged with the wall.

Hide with drywall

Separately, I would like to talk about how you can hide batteries using drywall. It is immediately worth noting that the material has its disadvantages, however plasterboard construction still very popular for renovations.

• The material is environmentally friendly and is not subject to combustion.
• You can find several varieties of this material on the market.
• This camouflage option is budget-friendly, and installation can be carried out in different ways, in a way that is convenient for you.
• Also, it is drywall that will allow the apartment owner to come up with any design, which will help not only to cover the pipes and radiator, but also to make additional decorative elements.

The downside is that drywall is afraid of external influences; if you do it carelessly, it is quite easy to break or pierce it. And if a breakdown or leak occurs, the entire finish will have to be replaced again, but this material is cheap.

Do-it-yourself installation of a plasterboard box

In order to close the battery, you need to try it on and then buy it metal profiles and other additional products.

• What materials are needed: plasterboard sheet 12 millimeters, metal profiles 27x28 and 60x27, self-tapping screws for plasterboard and metal, dowel-nails size 6x40, construction sickle, perforated corners.
• Tools: screwdriver, hammer drill, metal scissors, stationery knife, construction stapler, pencil, tape measure, building level.

Attention, for the construction of a plasterboard box there is an important requirement: the window sill must extend beyond the radiator by at least 3 centimeters.

Work order:

Masking heating pipes

It doesn’t matter whether it’s an apartment or a house, a bedroom or a kitchen, I would like to have it everywhere good repair. Questions immediately arise: how to beautifully hide heating pipes and how to do this with minimal costs and maximum efficiency? At the same time, the method of disguise should be truly invisible and unnoticeable, fitting into the room.

The pipe can be hidden inside the wall, or it can also be closed into the floor. Remember that the old heating system should not be hidden in this way; this option is possible after a complete update of all elements.

Box on frame

It is best made from wood, plastic or plasterboard. Do not place the heating pipes close together; there should be at least three centimeters between the box and the pipe.

Hide behind decor

Pipe decoration various options, for example, wrap it with jute rope. But remember that this reduces heat transfer. Many owners decorate pipes with flowers; this can be done using bamboo with leaves. Only imagination should work here, even old pipe may look completely different.

Painting to match the color of the walls

The easiest and most practical method is to paint the radiators or riser in the color of the walls, but the heat generation will not be reduced.

In the photo in the kitchen interior, the pipes are painted to match the blue walls.

Hide under the floor plinth

It was a good invention floor plinth, in which you can easily hide batteries located horizontally and low to the floor.

Photos in the interior of the rooms

Kitchen

Kitchen is perfect room, in which all ways to hide batteries will become practical and convenient. If the room is small, then you can hide the battery using beautiful table top or make one folding table, which will unfold when appropriate.

Factories of metal-plastic structures offer large selection beautiful large window sills that imitate stone, wood and other materials. A modern window sill does not break under weight, is not afraid of external factors, is easy to care for, wipe clean, is not afraid of scratches, and so on. You can hide any type of battery in this way, including cast iron.

In the photo they are used to disguise radiators wooden boxes.

Living room

If the radiator is in a niche, then a wide window sill will help create a work area.

You can place souvenirs, vases or potted flowers on the constructed wooden box. You can also cover unsightly radiators in the living room with thick curtains.

The photo shows a modern living room. In order to hide the radiators mounted wooden structure, which also serves as a place for relaxation, storage and decoration.

Bedroom and children's room

In the interior of a bedroom and children's room, batteries can be used as another place to relax, a tabletop for decorative elements or workplace.

Bathroom

You can hide the pipes in the bathroom using a louvered door, plastic gratings or a cabinet with opening doors.

We hide heating radiators using wooden, glass or plastic screens.

In the photo

Hallway

For radiators in hallways, glass screens or wooden boxes are suitable. IN small room Covering the battery is only necessary from a practicality point of view. This could be a locker for storing shoes, or the battery will become a small coffee table where keys and other necessary items will be stored.

The installation or reconstruction of a heating system involves installation or replacement heating devices. The good news is that, if you wish, you can handle this yourself without the involvement of specialists. How heating radiators should be installed, where and how to place them, what is needed to carry out the work - all this is in the article.

What is needed for installation

Installation of heating radiators of any type requires devices and consumables. Kit necessary materials almost the same, but for cast iron batteries, for example, the stubs go large size, but they don’t install a Mayevsky valve, but instead, somewhere at the highest point of the system, they install an automatic air vent. But the installation of aluminum and bimetallic heating radiators is absolutely the same.

Steel panel ones also have some differences, but only in terms of hanging - they come with brackets, and on the back panel there are special arms cast from metal, with which the heater clings to the hooks of the brackets.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

This small device to release air that may accumulate in the radiator. Placed on the free upper outlet (collector). Must be on every heating device when installing aluminum and bimetallic radiators. The size of this device is significantly smaller than the diameter of the manifold, so you will also need an adapter, but Mayevsky taps usually come complete with adapters, you just need to know the diameter of the manifold (connection dimensions).

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, there are also automatic air vents. They can also be installed on radiators, but they are slightly larger in size and for some reason are only available in a brass or nickel-plated case. Not in white enamel. In general, the picture is unattractive and, although they deflate automatically, they are rarely installed.

Stub

The side-connected radiator has four outputs. Two of them are occupied by the supply and return pipelines, on the third they install a Mayevsky valve. The fourth entrance is closed with a plug. She's like most modern batteries, most often painted with white enamel and does not spoil the appearance at all.

Shut-off valves

You will need two more ball valves or shut-off valves that can be adjusted. They are placed on each battery at the input and output. If these are ordinary ball valves, they are needed so that, if necessary, you can turn off the radiator and remove it (emergency repairs, replacement during heating season). In this case, even if something happens to the radiator, you will cut it off, and the rest of the system will work. The advantage of this solution is the low price of ball valves, the disadvantage is the impossibility of adjusting heat transfer.

Almost the same tasks, but with the ability to change the intensity of the coolant flow, are performed by shut-off control valves. They are more expensive, but they also allow you to adjust the heat transfer (make it less), and they look better externally; they are available in straight and angular versions, so the harness itself is more accurate.

If desired, you can use the coolant supply after ball valve install a thermostat. This is a relatively small device that allows you to change the heat output of a heating device. If the radiator does not heat well, you cannot install them - it will be even worse, since they can only reduce the flow. There are different thermostats for batteries - automatic electronic ones, but more often they use the simplest one - mechanical.

Related materials and tools

You will also need hooks or brackets for hanging on walls. Their number depends on the size of the batteries:

• if there are no more than 8 sections or the length of the radiator is no more than 1.2 m, two mounting points on top and one on the bottom are sufficient;
• For every next 50 cm or 5-6 sections, add one fastener at the top and bottom.

You also need fum tape or linen winding, and plumbing paste to seal the joints. You will also need a drill with drills, a level (preferably a level, but a regular bubble one will do), and a number of dowels. You will also need equipment for connecting pipes and fittings, but it depends on the type of pipe. That's it.

Where and how to place

Traditionally, heating radiators are installed under the window. This is necessary so that the rising warm air cut off the cold from the window. To prevent the glass from sweating, the width of the heating device must be at least 70-75% of the width of the window. It must be installed:

How to install correctly

Now about how to hang the radiator. It is very desirable that the wall behind the radiator is level - this makes it easier to work. Mark the middle of the opening on the wall, draw a horizontal line 10-12 cm below the window sill line. This is the line along which the top edge of the heating device is leveled. The brackets must be installed so that the top edge coincides with the drawn line, that is, it is horizontal. This arrangement is suitable for heating systems with forced circulation (with a pump) or for apartments. For systems with natural circulation, a slight slope is made - 1-1.5% - along the flow of the coolant. You can’t do more - there will be stagnation.

Wall mount

This must be taken into account when installing hooks or brackets for heating radiators. Hooks are installed like dowels - a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled in the wall, a plastic dowel is installed in it, and the hook is screwed into it. The distance from the wall to the heating device is easily adjusted by screwing in and unscrewing the hook body.

Hooks for cast iron batteries are thicker. This is a fastener for aluminum and bimetallic

When installing hooks under heating radiators, keep in mind that the main load falls on the upper fasteners. The lower one serves only to fix it in a given position relative to the wall and is installed 1-1.5 cm lower than the lower collector. Otherwise, you simply will not be able to hang the radiator.

When installing the brackets, they are applied to the wall in the place where they will be mounted. To do this, first attach the battery to the installation location, see where the bracket “fits,” and mark the location on the wall. After placing the battery, you can attach the bracket to the wall and mark the location of the fasteners on it. In these places, holes are drilled, dowels are inserted, and the bracket is screwed. Having installed all the fasteners, hang the heating device on them.

Floor fixing

Not all walls can hold even light ones aluminum batteries. If the walls are made of or covered with plasterboard, it is required floor installation. Some types of cast iron and steel radiators they go right on their feet, but they don’t suit everyone appearance or characteristics.

Floor installation of heating radiators made of aluminum and bimetallic is possible. There are special brackets for them. They are attached to the floor, then the heating device is installed, the lower collector is secured with an arc to installed legs. There are similar legs with adjustable height, available with fixed. The method of fastening to the floor is standard - with nails or dowels, depending on the material.

Options for piping heating radiators

Installation of heating radiators involves connecting them to pipelines. There are three main connection methods:

• saddle;
• one-sided;
• diagonal.

If you install radiators with a bottom connection, you have no choice. Each manufacturer strictly binds the supply and return, and its recommendations must be strictly followed, since otherwise you simply will not get heat. There are more options with a side connection ().

Strapping with one-sided connection

One-way connection is most often used in apartments. It can be double-pipe or single-pipe (the most common option). Still used in apartments metal pipes, therefore we will consider the option of piping the radiator steel pipes on the slopes. In addition to pipes of suitable diameter, you need two ball valves, two tees and two bends - parts with external thread on both ends.

All this is connected as shown in the photo. At single pipe system a bypass is required - it allows you to turn off the radiator without stopping or draining the system. You cannot put the tap on the bypass - you will block the flow of coolant through the riser with it, which is unlikely to make your neighbors happy and, most likely, you will be fined.

All threaded connections compacted with fum tape or linen winding, on top of which packaging paste is applied. When screwing the valve into the radiator manifold, much winding is not required. Too much of it can lead to the appearance of microcracks and subsequent destruction. This is true for almost all types of heating devices, except cast iron. When installing all the others, please do not be fanatical.

If you have the skills/opportunity to use welding, you can weld the bypass. This is what the piping of radiators in apartments usually looks like.

At two-pipe system no bypass needed. The supply is connected to the upper entrance, the return is connected to the lower entrance, taps, of course, are needed.

With bottom wiring (pipes laid on the floor), this type of connection is made very rarely - it turns out inconvenient and ugly; in this case it is much better to use a diagonal connection.

Strapping with diagonal connection

Installation of heating radiators with diagonal connection- most best option from a heat transfer point of view. In this case it is the highest. With lower wiring this type The connection is easy to implement (example in the photo) - the supply on this side is at the top, the return on the other is at the bottom.

A single-pipe system with vertical risers (in apartments) does not look as good, but people put up with it because of the higher efficiency.

Please note that with a one-pipe system, a bypass is again required.

Strapping with saddle connection

With bottom wiring or hidden pipes, installing heating radiators in this way is the most convenient and least noticeable.

With a saddle connection and lower single-pipe wiring, there are two options - with and without bypass. Without a bypass, the taps are still installed; if necessary, you can remove the radiator and install a temporary jumper between the taps - a squeegee (a piece of pipe of the required length with threads at the ends).

With vertical wiring (risers in high-rise buildings), this type of connection can be seen rarely - the heat losses are too large (12-15%).

Video tutorials on installing heating radiators