The bars are attached with screws directly to the wooden load-bearing structures. If there is a sheathing to form a ventilation gap, the beams are attached to the installed slats. It is recommended to insert fasteners into pre-made small holes (use a thin drill for this) so that the wood does not crack.

In some cases, the fence is made of plasterboard profiles attached to supporting structures using direct hangers. This is done only if the cladding is made of plasterboard.

Wooden bars are preferable because they have lower heat conductivity compared to metal products.

In the process of thermal insulation of the ceiling, the fence is designed according to a similar principle. When insulating a floor, wooden logs to which the finishing coating is attached serve as a fence.

Installation of heat insulator

Insulation material is placed in the cavity between the enclosing elements. If the heat insulator is in the form of sheets, then wall installation should start from the bottom, and when using roll material- from above, moving down.

Mineral wool sheets are placed sideways, due to which their reliable fastening is achieved. But this material, just like foam plastic, needs additional fastening with nails (one for each sheet).

Thermal insulation in rolls is attached to the top of the wall with one screw, then the material is unrolled and attached with nails at a distance of one meter.

First, solid sheets are installed, and the remaining areas where trimming is necessary are filled with insulating material at the very end.

If the roof is sloping, the ceiling insulator unfolds from the bottom in the direction from bottom to top and is secured with nails or with a cord. Small nails are nailed to adjacent bars at a distance of 15 cm, and after laying heat insulating material, a cord is stretched in a zigzag between the beams, which will ensure reliable fastening of the insulation.

When insulating with extruded polystyrene foam, all existing gaps in the seams are sealed construction foam. Applying foam requires pre-wetting the surfaces. Dried excess foam is cut off with a knife.

Video about insulating walls from the inside

The video tutorial below shows how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside:

Despite the development modern technologies in construction, wooden houses are still often found in holiday villages, villages and villages. At the same time, one of the main issues when building such a house is proper organization of wall insulation.

Made with high quality, using the most the best materials, in accordance with regulations, thermal insulation helps maintain optimal temperature in the house in the summer, and with the onset of the long, harsh Russian winter.

As is known wood is extremely susceptible to mold development and service life wooden structure directly depends on the degree of preservation of structural elements. With the onset of winter and the first frosts, the heating season begins.

We strive to provide a comfortable indoor temperature, and meanwhile logs and wooden beams, from which the walls are made, are subjected to a real test. Warm on one side, they come into contact with cold outside air on the other., and the result of this is a constantly formed, Condensation that is harmful to wood.

The main goals of thermal insulation are to reduce heat loss in winter and maintain important elements in good condition.

Conventionally, wall insulation can be divided into two types:

• walls of a wooden house;
• insulation of house walls.

There are many skeptics who condemn this or that method, but each of them has its own pros and cons. The choice of a certain insulation method is due to a number of reasons and factors, but with strict adherence to technology and proper execution of work, selection of appropriate materials, any of them turns out to be effective.

The main difference between these two methods of insulation is essentially that on which side of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house will the insulation be carried out?, and, as a result, how effective it will be in terms of heat conservation and benefits for the entire structure.

Owners and owners of wooden houses resort to insulation from the inside, not wanting to cover the unique, beautiful facades of the building, made using original masonry methods, or facades of architectural value. Such insulation will not be noticeable from the outside, and the appearance of the building will not change.

External insulation

The goal of external insulation is maximum efficiency.. It involves the creation of an insulating structure on the outside of load-bearing wooden walls and is more aimed at extending the life of the building, preserving all its important elements made of wood, protecting them from the destructive forces of nature and surrounding weather conditions.

External wall insulation remains quite common, often used in construction and renovation. And this is confirmed by a number of advantages:

• all temperature fluctuations, all the vagaries of the weather are taken over by a layer of insulation and finishing, respectively service life wooden elements home increases significantly;
• the opportunity to insulate a long-built house. Often such houses are purchased ready-made in holiday villages along with plots, and it can be financially difficult to immediately rebuild a new house.;
• the interior of the house remains untouched, which is convenient from the point of view of living and organizing everyday life;
• opportunity to choose new look Houses due to the finishing

Pie wall

In other words - composition and order of all insulation elements. When insulating a wooden house from the inside, the so-called “pie” can be represented as follows:

• load-bearing wall;
• sheathing;
• insulation - mineral wool;
• vapor barrier film;
• finishing layer.

wall pie

Which insulation to choose?

When choosing insulation for the walls of a house, first of all should be addressed attention to the ability of the material to pass steam and air while retaining heat.

The severity of the climate of the region of residence should also be taken into account.

Insulation materials include:

• inter-crown insulation, used at the construction stage;
• and insulation materials used for insulation from the outside or inside.

Inter-crown insulation is used in laying inter-crown joints. Such insulation can be synthetic or natural (from jute, moss, flax, hemp). The main property of these materials is low thermal conductivity and the ability to accumulate and release the resulting moisture. The most common today are insulation made from flax and jute fiber.

Basalt (mineral) wool is widely used to insulate walls from the outside or inside., or fiberglass wool in the form of rolls or mats, with a density of 80-120 kg/m3. In addition, it is an environmentally friendly material.

It is not recommended to use polystyrene foam or penoplex as an element of the pie., since these materials are vapor- and moisture-proof and prevent air exchange between the house and the outside environment.

The following materials may be suitable for insulation:

Mineral wool is the best insulation option

Sealing seams and joints of forming elements

This method is internal wall insulation, aimed at sealing joints and cracks in logs. In this case, they are used various sealants(silicone, latex, acrylic, linen rope, tow). This method is convenient because it can be easily done with your own hands and does not require special skills, it does not interfere with the release of steam and is the most economically profitable.

Technically it is carried out as follows:

• the edges of joints and cracks are cleaned,
• cavities are filled with rope, foam rubber;
• a layer of sealant is applied on top;
• the sealant is smoothed with a brush until a smooth surface is formed;
• Remains of sealant are removed with a rag.

Sealing with sealant

Sealing seams with fabric

Sheathing preparation and installation

When installing the sheathing, you should rely on the thickness of the insulation. The thickness of the bars will be chosen the same. Most often the timber is chosen 10-50 mm thick and 100 mm wide.

Install the sheathing transversely to the laying of logs with a step between the bars equal to the width of the heat-insulating mats with minus 3 centimeters for a tight fit. The height of the sheathing is individual for individual rooms.

Parallel to the laying of logs, the lathing is also installed in the same way (the so-called “counter-lattice”). To install the sheathing, you should choose quality material without traces of rotting. Before installation, all wooden parts and surfaces should be treated with an antiseptic.

PLEASE NOTE!

Do not use thin boards for lathing, since it simultaneously serves as a place for attaching finishing coatings.

Lathing

Do-it-yourself insulation of walls from the inside of a wooden house

Insulation of walls inside a wooden house using mineral wool. When using this method, glass wool, slag fiber, or mineral fiber mats are used.

This material is the most effective in terms of thermal insulation and sound insulation, and is environmentally friendly. However, due to its structure, mineral wool allows steam to pass through and is capable of accumulating water.

For this reason, when using it in insulation, layers of hydro- and vapor insulation must be used.

Mineral wool is available to customers in the form of rolls and mats. When insulating, it is most convenient to use mats by simply inserting them between the profiles of the sheathing made. In this case, the gaps between the mats should be no more than 2 mm. Such gaps are subsequently sealed with adhesive tape - preferably foil, or plumber's tape.

Step-by-step installation:

• being prepared required quantity mineral wool mats, based on calculations of the square footage of the walls of the premises;
• mineral wool is tightly inserted between the sheathing beams;
• the top mats are trimmed to height;
• Gaps and seams between mats are taped with mounting tape.

Some builders use foam plastic when insulating walls indoors. However, the main criterion for choosing in its favor is its low cost. From the point of view of efficiency, polystyrene foam does not have the ability to transmit steam, and the result of its use in the absence proper organization vapor and hydro insulation, will become the so-called “ greenhouse effect"and the inevitable development of mold in rooms with such walls.

Laying mineral wool

Installation of insulation

Vapor barrier and waterproofing of walls

Insulation of wooden houses begins with waterproofing. This is the closest to load-bearing walls a layer of special film, the main task of which is to ensure air circulation and protection of the insulation layer from getting wet and freezing, preventing its destruction and preserving the tree from the development of mold bacteria.

Waterproofing is one of the the most important moments in wall insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

During the work, anti-condensation membranes, diffuse breathable films, polymer multilayer films, and vapor barrier membranes are used. When waterproofing, it is important to maintain complete tightness. To do this, the film is overlapped and nailed using a stapler and staples, and the seams are taped with mounting tape.

Vapor barrier is a finishing coating that is laid on top of mineral wool and serves to protect against the penetration of water vapor into the insulation structure.

The fastening is similar to the installation of waterproofing.

Vapor barrier

Conclusion

Thus, responsibly organized insulation of the walls of a log house can play a big role in the long and reliable operation of a wooden house. It will help reduce heat loss and also protect the load-bearing elements of the structure from all kinds of weather conditions.

However, the preparation of such an event should be approached responsibly. The service life of your home depends on how well it is carried out.

Useful video

Tips for insulating a wooden house from the inside:

Insulating a wooden house from the inside with your own hands is not a mandatory procedure: by and large, with high-quality external thermal insulation, you can do without it. On the other hand, we often strive to preserve appearance external walls made of logs and timber, therefore the thermal insulation contours willy-nilly will have to be transferred indoors.

The thermal insulation process itself is quite complex and labor-intensive. That is why the work must begin with careful planning, since we will need a lot of time, effort, and money.

Approach 1. Inter-crown insulation

Caulking cracks

When starting to install thermal insulation circuits, it is worth assessing the condition of the walls themselves. As a rule, both in new houses and in buildings that have already been in use, there is a need to seal the roof joints. It is through these seams that a significant portion of the heat flows pass, therefore, by blocking them, we will significantly increase the temperature in the room.

An additional advantage is the absence of drafts, which also greatly reduce the level of comfort inside the house.

The simplest and therefore most common way to seal gaps between crowns made of logs or timber is caulk of various types fibrous materials. I will describe the features of these materials in the table below:

The caulking process itself is simple. Below I will tell you how to caulk the cracks between logs with your own hands:

1. We clean the gaps between the crowns from dust and debris.
2. If necessary (if signs of fungal or bacterial damage are detected), we treat the wood with antiseptic impregnation.
3. We put sealing material into the gap.
4. We take a caulk - a metal or wooden spatula - and use a hammer or mallet to hammer the material into the crack.

1. We repeat the operations until the gap is filled and the tool begins to spring back and bounce off the material.
2. After some time (we’ll give the beams time to shrink a little), we carefully cut off the excess material.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated, but I must warn you right away - this is not a quick task. Especially if you caulk the walls big house alone.

Warm seam

An alternative to caulking is the technology of the so-called warm seam. At one time, when choosing the best way to finish a wall that was not planned to be covered, I settled on this option. The advantages of this technique include not only the neat appearance of the wall after treatment (indeed, the log house looks much more attractive), but also the preservation of vapor permeability, which is not always possible with standard insulation methods.

To create a warm seam, it is necessary to purchase sufficient footage of the sealing cord to process all the crowns. You can use different cords:

• acrylic;
• latex;
• polyethylene foam;
• butyl rubber;
• linen;
• jute, etc.

In addition, to fill the gap you will definitely need a sealant, which is more convenient to apply using a special gun.

Arrangement of warm seams inside with your own hands is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. All cracks between the crowns are carefully cleaned, and deep cracks in logs they are embroidered to prevent spread.
2. Then a sealing cord is laid into each cavity to a depth of 20-30 mm. Since elastic materials are used, the cord is fixed in the crack due to its own elasticity, without additional fixation.
3. A layer of sealant is applied over the cord, which fills the gap to the front surface of the wall. If necessary, the sealant is smoothed with a jointer soaked in water, and its excess is removed from the surface with a wet rag.

After polymerization, the sealant with the cord forms a protective contour that effectively retains heat and prevents blowing, but at the same time maintains vapor permeability. Due to this, it is ensured natural ventilation premises and maintaining optimal humidity conditions.

Both caulking and the arrangement of a warm seam can be used even when internal insulation of the log house is not planned. At the same time, these methods do not provide maximum energy savings, therefore, if you want to really save on heating and ensure that it will not be cold in a wooden house in winter, then you should think about installing an additional thermal insulation circuit.

Approach 2. Thermal insulation along the frame

Installation of sheathing

In this section I will tell you how to properly insulate a wooden house from the inside. If you understand how the thermal insulation circuit works, then there should be no problems, but before starting work it is still worth studying the optimal algorithm.

We start traditionally - with preparing the surface and installing the frame for the insulation:

1. If you are insulating an old house, then the walls need to be cleaned of any remaining finishing. Both wallpaper and dilapidated sheathing under a layer of insulation will not save us a single extra degree, but will serve as an excellent substrate for the development of bacteria and fungi.
2. After this, we impregnate the walls with a deep penetration antiseptic. Why is it clear: under the casing it will be warm and relatively humid, so if we do not take care of comprehensive bioprotection, then the appearance of fungi will be a matter of time. And for a very short time.

Since we have started impregnating the walls, we can at the same time treat them with fire retardants. Of course, reducing the flammability of wood will not protect us from fire 100%, but this is exactly the situation when slowing down the combustion for a few minutes can be decisive.

1. The next stage is installation of the membrane. Its main task is to protect the thermal insulation material from moisture upon contact with wood. Important aspect: polyethylene cannot be used here, since it completely blocks the exit of water vapor through the wall to the outside, so we either take a diffuse membrane with a good vapor permeability indicator, or we abandon this layer altogether and hope that we have well sealed the gaps between the crowns.

1. Next is the sheathing. It can also be made from metal profile, but I prefer to work with wood. We install beams with a cross section from 30x30 to 50x50 mm either directly on the wall or on steel brackets, forming a gap whose thickness corresponds to the thickness of the insulation.
2. Under the base of each metal bracket it is worth placing either a piece of roofing material or a paronite gasket - in order to avoid the formation of a cold bridge.

Installation of insulation and sheathing

The next stage is the installation of thermal insulation material. Many people use foam plastic to save money, but it seems to me that the game is not worth the candle. Yes, we will retain a significant part of the heat with this material, but due to the low (almost zero) vapor permeability, the natural ventilation of the walls will be disrupted. As a result, the humidity in the room will increase, and in order to normalize it, we will have to ventilate the rooms more often, losing the retained heat.

Therefore, before insulating a wooden house from the inside with my own hands, I considered two options - mineral wool and ecowool (loose cellulose insulation). I settled on mineral wool, which I installed in this way:

1. material was installed in the cells of the sheathing. I initially made the frame for the insulation in accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool slabs, so I almost didn’t have to spend time and effort on trimming.

1. Fixed on top of a layer of mineral wool vapor barrier membrane. Here you can use both glassine and polyethylene, but I prefer membrane materials.
2. Then I installed a counter-lattice made of 20x40 mm slats. I attached the counter-lattice bars to the load-bearing elements of the frame in such a way that there was an air gap of 30 - 50 mm between the insulation and the sheathing for ventilation.

1. In the ventilation gap I laid hidden wiring. Moreover, all the wires were packaged in a metal hose with a wall thickness that completely prevented burnout.

You should not use standard plastic corrugation - the risk of fire is too great.

1. I used pine as cladding, but you can use a blockhouse, false timber, and even MDF-based materials.
2. In principle, the instructions also allow for sheathing insulated log wall plasterboard followed by putty and finishing, but I don’t like this option. Indeed, why bother with the construction of a wooden house, so that after all the work you get a result that can be reproduced in a standard panel high-rise building?

Ecowool is a good alternative to mineral fiber insulation, but I was stopped by the fact that to perform thermal insulation work it is necessary to involve specialists with sophisticated equipment. However, in terms of money it would have been about the same. So this option is definitely worth considering:

1. To insulate the ecowool frame, we cover the frame with plywood about 10–15 mm thick.
2. We leave holes in the plywood sheathing to fill with thermal insulation material.

1. A hose from a compressor with cellulose fiber is inserted into a hole in the casing, after which the insulation under pressure enters a closed cavity.
2. Filling is carried out layer by layer to avoid the formation of air pockets that reduce the effectiveness of insulation.

Underground space as a separate area

Internal thermal insulation of a wooden house also includes insulation of the underground space. To the question of whether it is possible not to insulate the floor, I would give a positive answer only in one case: if there is a basement with high-quality thermal insulation below. In all other cases, and especially if the floor is laid on the ground, you cannot do without an additional contour.

The general algorithm is:

1. We carefully compact the soil under the floor, after which we fill in a layer of gravel or sand and gravel mixture up to 30 cm thick.
2. We form a bedding of expanded clay on top of the gravel: the thicker the layer, the better.

1. Instead of expanded clay, you can use slab thermal insulation materials - polystyrene foam or mineral wool. To lay them down, we attach a plywood underlay to the joists, on which we place the insulation.
2. Place on top of the insulated layer waterproofing material: foil film, glassine, paronite, etc. The waterproofing should cover all the joists, leaving only 5-10 cm free on each edge for moisture vapor to escape from the wood.

1. We lay rough flooring made of boards or thick plywood on top. There should also be an air gap between the flooring and the insulation for natural ventilation.

Budgeting references

As you can see from the description, the project we have ahead of us is quite large-scale. That’s why it’s worth approaching it with all responsibility, and most importantly, drawing up a fairly detailed budget.

The reference materials given in the table will help you with this:

Conclusion

Choosing how to insulate a wooden house from the inside is quite simple - not many materials can be used for this purpose. It is much more difficult to correctly install thermal insulation circuits, and here the tips given above, as well as the educational video in this article, will help you. At the same time, you, of course, can contact me with any questions: in the comments to the article I will try to answer them as fully and reasonably as possible.

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Just a few decades ago, insulating the walls from the inside of a wooden house was not required: to keep the room warm, it was enough to increase the thickness of the walls. But using more material to build a thick wall leads to increased financial costs, so owners think about how to properly and whether it is even possible to insulate the house from the inside. Yes, you can, the modern construction market offers many different thermal insulation materials for the internal insulation of wooden houses.

What you need to know about wall insulation

Wood is a material with high thermal insulation properties, but when the thickness of the walls decreases, the need for insulation arises. It is not possible to carry out external insulation, since this will deteriorate the appearance of the wooden structure. Additional heat losses occur due to poor-quality joining of logs, under the influence of natural shrinkage of the house. Therefore, insulating a wooden house from the inside is an urgent problem, which modern thermal insulation materials help solve.

Before you start choosing insulation and carrying out thermal insulation work, you need to find out two details:

It is best to plan home insulation work for spring or summer. A newly built house is not insulated - you need to wait a year for the building to shrink. Otherwise, the work will be useless: after shrinkage, cracks and gaps between the logs will appear again, and additional work will have to be carried out.

Choice of insulation

Not only the warmth in the house, but also the health of the residents depends on the quality of the insulation.. The following requirements apply to materials used to insulate the walls of a wooden house:

• Low thermal conductivity.
• Fire safety.
• Mechanical strength.
• Ecological cleanliness, safety for human health.

Many modern materials have been created that have excellent thermal insulation properties. The following types of insulation are used:

Proper organization of work and a thoughtful approach are the lion's share of success in this difficult task. Next, the main steps in insulating a room will be described. Preparatory stage

Before starting thermal insulation work it is necessary to prepare the walls. The first operation is checking and sealing the joints. For this purpose, synthetic sealants, jute fiber, and tow are used. Preparing walls for applying polyurethane foam includes cleaning the surface from dirt, old paint, greasy stains. After filling the joints, the next stage begins - treating the wood with fire-retardant compounds.

Treatment with compounds that prevent fire and infection by mold fungi is very important, because the wood after thermal insulation will be hidden from free access for many years; condition and service life depend on the quality of processing wooden building. Fire-retardant compounds are used to treat not only wooden walls, but also enclosing structures, even if they are made of other materials.

Ventilation device

When carrying out thermal insulation work you need to remember about ventilation: without it it is impossible to achieve the correct microclimate in the room. Some insulation materials have low air conductivity, which negatively affects indoor air quality. To ensure air circulates properly, arrange ventilation gaps- leave a small gap between the wall and the thermal insulation material. In this gap, free air circulation occurs, thereby maintaining normal humidity of the insulation and walls.

Materials such as basalt wool, pressless polystyrene, glass wool require additional device vapor barriers. For this they use vapor barrier film, which is attached to the ventilation sheathing.

All thermal insulation materials require construction of enclosing structures- without them it is impossible to fix the insulation to the wall. To do this, use wooden blocks, which are installed at a distance from each other equal to the width of the insulation. In order for the material to fit more tightly to the fence, the distance between the bars is made smaller than the required size by 1 cm. After laying the insulation between the fencing bars, it is additionally secured with cords or dowels.

After installation on the wall, insulation with high porosity requires additional waterproofing. For this they use waterproofing films with vapor-permeable membranes, thanks to which the humidity of the insulation will always be equal to the humidity of the air in the room. As finishing coating plasterboard is used for thermal insulation, wooden lining, plywood.

The technology for insulating a wooden house from the inside is not complicated and does not require professional skills from the owners. You can insulate the walls yourself, you just need study the technology of work and purchase quality materials.