This technological element can be made from a variety of materials and constructed in a variety of ways. Which one to choose depends on the specific needs you face.

First, let's talk about the material from which the sheathing is made. Typically three are used different material: wood (or rather, wooden slats), plastic elements and metal structures ( metal corner or U-shaped profile, usually made of aluminum).

Wooden sheathing

Wood is relevant in most cases; it is a basic, universal material for lathing. It is suitable in most cases and is inexpensive. What are the disadvantages of wood? There is only one major drawback: rotting. If the room in which you are going to install the panels contains a damp atmosphere (for example, a kitchen or bathroom), then the wood may rot.

To prevent this from happening, the wood must be pre-treated special composition, the so-called antiseptic. Keep in mind that the composition must dry completely before you begin to install the sheathing: this way you will avoid unpleasant odor undried antiseptic composition.

Not every wooden lath is suitable for sheathing. For this important role, you cannot use any rubbish that belongs in the stove: a crooked rack, knotty, twisted, cracked. Then the structure will last a long time.

Plastic sheathing

When is plastic lathing relevant for PVC panels? First of all, it is an alternative to antiseptic-treated wood for humid atmospheres. Plastic is close in strength to, but is not at all susceptible to rotting. First of all, plastic is used in such critical rooms as baths, with their prohibitive humidity and temperature.

Another advantage is that it is easy to assemble: no fastening materials are needed. Plastic structures for sheathing are initially equipped with locking joints for insertion into one another. At these locking joints the structures are held quite firmly.

It should be kept in mind that necessary condition the lock is activated - these are exactly right angles between the elements of the sheathing. If even one corner is not straight, the lock will not click and nothing will hold.

Most of the sheathing is assembled from these prefabricated elements - plastic guides. The exception is the side racks: plastic guides are not suitable for their manufacture. Here you need a plastic strip. The fact is that the connection with locks built into the plastic guides is not strong enough to make a reliable sheathing.

Metal sheathing

Metal sheathing is used less often. It is made from aluminum structures of various profiles - corner or U-shaped.

This design is the strongest and most resistant to all external influences; it is used if the sheathing for PVC panels must last a century, or if significant surplus is available aluminum profile, which has nowhere to go (for example, after an unsuccessful calculation of the consumption of materials for). What are the features of this design?

In installation it is very similar to the sheathing for plasterboard ceilings. Screws are usually used as fastening materials, with which the sheathing is attached to the wall or ceiling. Holes are pre-drilled in metal structures for these screws; Also, holes should be drilled for fasteners on which the PVC panels themselves will be installed.

The dimensions of the squares of aluminum sheathing are much larger than those made of wood or plastic, up to two times. This is due to the fact that metal is much stronger than both of these materials. Also, large lathing can significantly save expensive light metal structural elements.

Finally, there is such an option as mixed sheathing. For example, you can combine wood and aluminum; If you have a certain amount of aluminum profile left, “neither this nor that,” then you can make the most key sheathing logs or perimeter from it, and do the rest from wood. Mixed lathing allows you to combine the best of two designs: in terms of price and quality, it will probably be the best option.

In any case, whatever the lathing manufacturing technology, the selected material must be mounted in such a way as to prevent any play or looseness. If necessary, increase the amount of fastening materials.

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A lot of materials for interior decoration, which are presented in assortment construction stores, involve their installation on a pre-prepared sheathing. If you don't want to invite construction team, then do the lathing yourself. This is not a particularly complicated process, however, a couple of significant points should be taken into account for any type of lathing, without which the final result of the cladding will be of poor quality or short-lived.

There are a number of possible lathing constructions and options for how to make them for walls, ceilings and floors. First, we will discuss the materials used to form the sheathing, and then we will consider various ways its construction with indications of all the nuances.

Selecting material for interior sheathing

wooden and metal lathing

According to the type of material it can be formed:

• Wooden sheathing;
• Made from galvanized profile;
• Plastic sheathing.

Metal

IN modern construction as the main material for forming the sheathing for interior works Most often, a galvanized profile is used, which was originally invented for attaching drywall. In this case, a U-shaped profile with various sizes and shape for various target placements. A UD profile is used to form the perimeter. The end of the CD profile is inserted into it, from which the sheathing actually consists.

Several other types of profiles are used mainly for forming partitions and walls, so lathing is not useful in the arrangement. In addition, there is a whole range of fasteners and accessories for mounting profiles and connecting them, which greatly facilitates the assembly of sheathing of any complexity and shape.

Tree

A time-tested material is, of course, wood, especially since the average cost of lathing made of wood is significantly lower than the same one made of galvanized profile. Timber and boards with dimensions varying within 25-50 mm are used. For interior work, it is best to choose the minimum acceptable size that will allow you to securely fasten the cladding material and will not deform under the influence of its weight or the external environment.

Wood is a fairly pliable material from which you can construct a sheathing for a variety of purposes. However, there are a number of limitations and features that somewhat reduce its value as a material for sheathing. First of all, this is exposure to moisture, as well as its low fire safety. These shortcomings can be significantly reduced by using special impregnations. However, risks cannot be completely eliminated.

wooden sheathing using ordinary construction foam

Plastic

In most cases, plastic profiles for sheathing are made for a specific type of sheathing, and the methods for installing them can vary dramatically. The specifics of their installation should be clarified in the manufacturer's instructions.

General structure of the lathing

To create lathing in the general case it is necessary to mount the frame around the perimeter of each sheathed surface. It is brought to the required level. After this, the intermediate elements are placed at a distance necessary to secure the sheathing elements. This is very important point, in which errors are not allowed.

To secure plasterboard sheets the distance of the sheathing elements should be half the width of the sheet. In this case, the distance itself is calculated from the middle of one crossbar to the middle of the other. Only in this case will it be possible to properly fasten the sheets end to end.

For PVC sheathing, aluminum or wood panels you can limit yourself to a distance equal to the length of the elements or place one or two more supporting elements of the sheathing in the middle between them. For the ceiling, it is better to take a smaller distance between the beams or profiles (450-600 mm) so that the cladding elements do not sag.

In case it happens, the distance between the sheathing bars is sufficient to accommodate it. For example, when using strips or slabs mineral wool the distance should be 1-2 cm less than the dimensions of the insulator. This will allow it to be packed tightly without gaps.

Taking into account these construction features, you can already decide on the required amount of base material and determine how much the sheathing costs.

If necessary, at the stage of forming the sheathing, distribution is carried out hidden wiring, various communications and elements additional equipment, such as warm floors, insulation, etc. In the case of forming a sheathing with a counter-lattice, the frame around the perimeter should be made at a certain height for both layers of timber.

Choosing the direction of the sheathing

There are several types of lathing:

1. vertical
2. horizontal
3. with counter-lattice

Choose suitable option of the first two is possible only by deciding on the location of the elements of the finishing material. The counter-lattice is formed, firstly, to ensure normal ventilation of the space under the cladding, and secondly, to position the thermal insulation layer. It is applicable only when wooden sheathing is installed.

For plasterboard sheets, the lathing should be placed vertically, with the condition of the same direction for the drywall sheets themselves. The rule here is that the sheet must be fastened evenly along its entire length. Otherwise, when using transverse lathing, you will have to fill it too thickly, which will significantly affect the cost of the entire structure.

For mounting various types materials consisting of individual panels or strips, such as PVC panels, lining or wooden slats, aluminum panels etc., used transverse lathing. This means that when the material elements are arranged horizontally, the sheathing is performed vertically and vice versa.

If necessary, form counter-lattice the outer layer of the sheathing is mounted according to the rules already described, and bottom layer, which is directly attached to the base, is located perpendicularly.

Horizontal (transverse) lathing and counter lathing using the example of a roof. When working indoors, a counter-lattice is rarely required.

Type 1: wooden beam sheathing

Wooden beams and boards are indispensable in the case of, and are also suitable for lathing walls.

The following tools will be required for the work:

1. saw;
2. jigsaw (preferably);
3. impact drill;
4. screwdriver, screwdriver;
5. chisel;
6. mallet, hammer;
7. tape measure, level, plumb lines, construction corner.

• The materials required are directly the timber from which the sheathing is installed, a board for making substrates, a board for the frame, screws and dowels for mounting the timber to the base.

First of all, it is necessary to mark the place for installing the outer elements of the sheathing (frame). This is especially important in cases where only part of the surface will be occupied for finishing. The location of the beams or boards along the perimeter is especially carefully measured using a level and plumb lines, because subsequent elements can be oriented along the frame.

If the surface on which the sheathing is made is uneven, you will have to use backings for some of the beams or parts thereof so that the outer edges of the sheathing form a single plane in the level. For example, you can sharpen the beams or comb the base. The choice of option depends on the nature of the irregularities. If they are present throughout the wall or floor, then it is better to use substrates. To determine the distance at which the beams will be separated from the wall, you should determine the highest point on the surface and from there calculate the position of the frame beams. In this case, it is best to take another 2-3 mm margin for unevenness of the beams themselves, which will be used in the sheathing.

Having determined the direction of the first beam of the frame, and having calculated the required size of the substrates that are needed, you can secure it with dowels and screws. The timber is secured with screws every 20-25 cm.

After the first beam, the rest are installed, which will form the perimeter of the sheathing. Everything is done with the derivation of a common plane and level. Window and door openings, as well as protruding parts of the walls, are lined around the perimeter with beams in order to securely fasten the edges of the sheathing elements along their border.

Scheme of sheathing a wall on a balcony for cladding with clapboard or panels

After this, you can begin to install the intermediate beams. There is no need to rigidly connect the intermediate beams to the frame elements, especially if you are not sure that the wood is properly dried. In the case of rigid fastening, due to thermal deformation or due to changes in humidity, the position of the sheathing elements may be lost, which will also affect appearance, and on the strength of the entire structure.

When using backings, you should secure the edges of the timber, checking the indications building level and plumb lines, and after that begin to secure in the middle, combing out the substrate of the required thickness or laying required quantity prepared pieces.

All wood used in the manufacture of sheathing should be treated protective compounds with antiseptics and fire retardants. This will protect the material from rotting, fungi, absorption of excess moisture and reduce the risk of fire.

Video: example of installing wooden sheathing under plastic panels

Type 2: metal lathing (made of galvanized profile)

The following tools will be required:

1. metal scissors;
2. screwdriver;
3. level, plumb;
4. tape measure, construction corner;
5. impact drill.

Most often, a galvanized profile is used when making sheathing for plasterboard, but it is also perfect for other sheathing materials. With the help of such a profile and all kinds of auxiliary fastenings, it is possible to sheath any surface. A galvanized profile is not suitable for forming sheathing on the floor; it is not strong enough for this. But the lathing on the ceiling is best and easiest to assemble from a profile, and not from a wooden beam.

In any case, all work begins with the installation of UD support profiles. They are fixed on the extreme sides perpendicular to the placement of the sheathing elements. All intermediate elements will be inserted with their ends inside this profile and attached to them. In addition to the two main guides, additional ones are installed parallel to the edges of the window and doorways, as well as along the perimeter of protruding elements that will not be sheathed.

The supporting metal profiles must be securely held to the base. To do this, fastening dowels are placed every 15-25 cm. As in the case of wooden sheathing, underlays may be needed if the surface of the base is uneven. It is extremely important to correctly determine the height of the substrates, because if you make a mistake or miscalculate, then when fixing the profile it will bend. After this it is no longer possible to level it.

Method of metal wall lathing based on CD60 profile

The main profiles of the sheathing are inserted into the guides with their ends at the edges and secured with screws. Special screws for galvanized profiles with a drill tip are best suited for this purpose. To add rigidity to the profile and the entire structure, you can additionally use mounting hangers. They are mainly used to secure profiles to the ceiling, but they are also suitable for walls. The edges of the hangers are bent at 90 degrees and secured in the places where the profile is installed. After installing the profile itself and securing it to the guides, the bent wings of the suspensions are screwed to it, cutting off their excess part, which protrudes above the profile. Before screwing, be sure to check the level of the entire profile, because the profile itself, although strong, still bends a little.

October 1, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Today I want to tell you how the ceiling sheathing should be installed correctly for frame finishing different materials. IN in this case such materials can be PVC panels, MDF, wooden lining or drywall.

In fact, any of the above claddings can be mounted on a similar device made according to the same principle and even the same dimensions.

So, everything is in order!

Installation of sheathing

Stage No. 1 - marking

Someone will notice that I missed this one important stage as preparation, that is, removal of the old coating. However, in this case, this work is optional. Will need to be removed old cladding only if it frankly doesn’t hold up and falls off.

To install the sheathing on the ceiling, the instructions require adherence to certain parameters:

• marking begins with a control line on the walls around the perimeter of the room - it marks the depth of the ceiling cavity;
• but before you mark this depth, you should decide what kind of lighting you will have. And if these are built-in lamps, then you need to be guided by their dimensions;
• So, if 40 mm of depth is enough for an LED device, then for the rest you need at least 70 mm. In any case, it will be better if you purchase lamps in advance and measure the length of the recessed part. Add 10 mm for heat extinguishing and get the depth of the ceiling cavity;
• to break a line around the perimeter you first need to use a water or laser level place marks in the corners. Next, use a chockline (painting cord) to mark a control line along them;

• Now you need to mark the protocol itself. If installation is subsequently carried out under drywall, then the distance between the lines (the centers of the profiles that will be installed later) should be exactly 50 cm ;
• if it is PVC or MDF panels, or wooden lining, then the step can be increased by 10 cm;
• after you have marked the control lines for the CD profiles, immediately mark the location. It is at this stage that it is most convenient to determine their location;
• if a chandelier is installed on the ceiling, then use a chockline to beat off the diagonals, so you will get the center, which will be exactly at the intersection of these lines;
• For suspended version you can immediately make a hole and install a dowel for the hook;
• and if the chandelier will be attached using a console, then at this point determine the place to strengthen the frame.

Stage No. 2 - installation of UD and suspensions

The entire sheathing for the plastic panels on the ceiling is supported by hangers and UD profiles, which are screwed around the perimeter. Some manufacturers produce UD profiles with holes every 30 cm, while others do not provide them.

However, they are very easy to make yourself, for this purpose;

• mark an approximate line marked along the perimeter every 30 cm;
• drill holes for the dowels in the wall directly through the profile, as shown in the photo above.

To fix UD in concrete or brick, use dowels with a diameter of 60 mm and self-tapping screws 50-70 mm long. If the walls have loose plaster, then the length of the screw increases to 90 mm (the dowel is the same). But if the walls are made of limestone or foam blocks, then 50 mm self-tapping screws without dowels at all are sufficient.

After the hooks have been screwed to the wall, you can proceed to fixing the hangers. Most often, perforated tape hangers are used for this, so we will talk about them (for deeper ceilings, wire hangers are used).

First you just need to distribute them according to rough ceiling, fastening with screws and dowels. Please note that you need to screw them on yourself, and not use impact dowels.

Pay attention to the top photo, which shows two options for fixation - correct and incorrect, so do not make mistakes in such situations.

The distance between the suspensions should be no more than 60-70 cm. But if the ceiling implies plasterboard finishing under cladding ceramic tiles, then the distance is naturally reduced to 40-50 cm, and profiles are installed more often.

When fixing the suspension, try to ensure that the oblong hole in the center of the tape lies exactly in the middle of the control line (this is what it was made for). Don’t rush to fold your ears down just yet—you’ll do this after you insert the CD profiles into the UD.

Stage No. 3 - installation of CD profiles

Now you need to cut the CD profiles to length and insert them into the UD. To do this, measure the distance from wall to wall and subtract 5 mm - this will be the appropriate length of the profile. Measure each CD, as there may be errors on the wall, and immediately insert it into the UD until you have assembled the entire sheathing.

If you look closely at the top photo, you will see a blue nylon thread stretched across the profiles. It is needed for leveling and is tensioned by screwing it with self-tapping screws (“fleas”) to the brackets.

But unfixed threads will sag and pull the thread, so you need to pull all the profiles a little higher than the level. To do this, simply bend the ears of the middle dewlap under each of them.

First, you should level the outer profiles relative to the perimeter; they should be half a millimeter above the thread, since touching will lead to a malfunction of the plane. Then gradually (you can start from anywhere) level the remaining threads, but also raise them half a millimeter above the thread so that they do not pull it back and knock down the level.

It is advisable to screw each ear of the suspension with two “fleas” - this way you will ensure the rigidity of the fastening and the frame will not rattle. That is, there will be no play in the profile in the bracket (when you hit the ceiling with your fist, the play causes a rattling sound).

Note. To assemble metal frames from galvanized profiles, small metal screws 9-11 mm long are used - in everyday life they are usually called fleas. Their tip can be in the form of a drill or a pointed cone.

Other options

Also, to cover the ceiling with plasterboard, a cellular sheathing can be used, as in the top photo - the cell size here is 60x60 cm (in the center of the profile). But this option is not popular among professional finishers:

• firstly, the cell size does not fit the parameters of the ceiling gypsum board (1200×2500 mm);
• and, secondly, more material will be needed here, therefore, total price arrangement will be an order of magnitude higher.

Sometimes the room area is large, and the length of the CD, which can be either 3m or 4m, will not be enough. In such cases, the profiles are extended using special connecting inserts, as shown in the top photo.

But in such situations, a suspension is installed on both sides of the joint and the fixing “fleas” pass through the profile and the insert simultaneously.

In addition, the lathing under the PVC panels on the ceiling may not be metal, but wooden, as shown in the top photo. Here, in fact, a rail of any section can be used, but, as a rule, 20-25 mm with a width of 40-50 mm is used.

Also, the wooden sheathing can be leveled with stands, photo above. However, this requires a flat ceiling. In addition, this installation method takes more time.

Conclusion

Of course, for any finishing it is best to assemble the sheathing from a galvanized CD profile - it turns out durable and is not afraid of moisture, and the cost is not much higher than lumber.

All stages of installing the sheathing on the ceiling are shown more clearly in the video in this article. And I invite readers to discuss in the comments - ask questions and contribute fresh ideas!

October 1, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

A finishing material that is very popular today is plastic panels. They found theirs wide application and help create modern decor V different rooms. Such material is often used in educational institutions, private apartments, trading floors, on loggias and balconies.

Peculiarities

Greater demand for PVC panels can be explained by the following qualitative characteristics:

• at an affordable price, which allows renovation work at low cost;
• easy installation without using special equipment and tools;
• a variety of texture options, thanks to which you can create a unique interior;
• environmental safety;
• several size options and low weight;
• extremely resistant to fungus and moisture.

Plastic panels are durable material, but subject to their correct installation and careful care. Any mechanical impact can damage the finish.

Necessity

The lathing allows the installation of plastic panels in rooms with high humidity, constant temperature changes, or in those that are not heated at all. A special installation process prevents material deformation under the influence of factors environment.

The following types of fastening of PVC panels can be distinguished:

1. without a frame, but it is used infrequently and only on perfectly flat surfaces;
2. lathing or frame method.

Creating a frame for the subsequent installation of plastic panels is a guarantee of high-quality fixation of the material, regardless of whether the surface is flat or not. Before you begin installation, you should decide on the type of frame.

To do this, it is necessary to take into account the magnitude of the height differences on the surface that is being processed, the characteristics of the humidity level in the room, your skills and material security. The sheathing is an important part of the structure; thanks to it, installation is carried out easily and without special costs to level the surface. This fastening option will allow you to install the panels in any type of room and microclimate, where it will last for many years.

Materials

The manufacture of the frame can be based on metal slats, wood beams or plastic slats.

Made of wood

Wood slats are an inexpensive and widely available material for making a frame. The peculiarity of using this material is that it should not be used in rooms with high humidity. The choice of slats should be responsible and thoughtful. The bars should not be bent, crooked or poorly dried. The advantages of using wooden sheathing include its ease of processing, as well as its low cost. But she also has significant shortcomings, for example, a tendency to rodent damage, rotting and low fire safety. That's why this material should be treated with special substances immediately before installation. If the mounting surface has differences in height, then this frame option will be the most suitable.

Wooden beam quite simple to process, so if necessary it can be easily adjusted to fit right size. The low weight does not cause overload on the walls, so it is applicable in rooms for various purposes. But also important is the absolute naturalness of the material and the inability to cause allergic reactions.

Made of metal

The metal profile is a reliable and durable frame. This option can be installed in rooms with any humidity, regardless of temperature regime. The main advantage of such lathing is the ability to use it on any surface, with any curvatures and height differences. Recently, molding has become popular. Thanks to metal structures, you can safely install built-in lighting equipment into the walls.

These profiles also have significant disadvantages:

• installation will require special skills;
• the process is difficult and time-consuming;
• quite high cost;
• high consumption of materials.

Installation of a metal frame under PVC panels guarantees fire safety, as well as a long service life, unlike other materials. Compared to wood, metal sheathing retains its geometric and linear parameters for a long time, is not subject to deformation under the influence of the environment, does not rot, does not rust, and does not require processing. by special means protection.

Made of plastic

This type of lathing can be used in rooms with the most different levels humidity. Any craftsman can easily create such a design. As for the cost, it is not too expensive. Each element of such a frame is small in thickness and can be installed in rooms with low ceilings. This great option lathing, but it can’t always be found in stores. Plastic construction is fixed on surfaces that do not have irregularities or curvatures, or they are insignificant. In the presence of severe defects good result it won't work.

The advantages of plastic include:

• inability to deform;
• resistance to the spread of mold and mildew;
• Possibility of quick and easy installation.

The main disadvantages include susceptibility to defects on the surface, as well as the price, which will be higher than in the version with wood.

Preparatory work

The preparation stage is present in any work. In some cases, repairs and decoration require many activities, in other situations only minor corrections are needed. The work begins with thinking about all the sequential actions, counting the number required material and its procurement. When purchasing plastic panels, it is better to purchase all the required quantity at once, since the products must be from the same batch. Otherwise, a situation may arise when it will be difficult to find a suitable product that matches the tone. It is also better to buy material with a small supply in order to make a quick replacement if necessary.

The process of preparing for the installation of sheathing includes not only the purchase of material, but also preparation necessary tools. This is important so as not to prolong the work and not look for equipment during the process.

In such a procedure it is difficult to do without the following items:

• drills, screwdrivers;
• jigsaw;
• construction knife;
• level;
• roulette;
• hammer;
• pencil;
• consumables;
• screws, dowels, clips.

To build a correct and stable sheathing, you need to put in a lot of effort and invest money.

Some tips that will help excellent result process.

1. It is necessary to maintain the distance between the slats, it is advisable to keep them the same. The most suitable distance is considered to be 30 cm, but 50 is acceptable.
2. Installation of frame slats should be done perpendicular to future plastic panels. The vertical panel is attached to horizontal slats and vice versa.
3. Due attention should be paid to the placement of strips at the beginning and end of the surfaces where work takes place. Openings for windows and doors do not need to be ignored.

If installation occurs wooden frame, then a mandatory indicator that is controlled is the humidity in the room and the material itself; for wood it should be no more than 15 percent. The basic rule that must be observed during the installation of plastic sheathing is to install the plastic strips perpendicular to the PVC panels, only in this way will it be possible to secure the clip.

Regarding metal frame, then its installation will be much more profitable, if gypsum board slabs are installed in parallel with it, thus there is a significant saving in material due to the use of scraps. It is important to remember that only with properly executed crating will it be possible reliable design with a long useful life.

Installation features

This work process is the most important, so it should be taken with full responsibility. The final result will depend on the correct installation of the sheathing. It is worth starting marking the perimeter from the area that sticks out the most; it will become the basis for an even finishing panel layer. Using chalk, tape measure, slats, it is worth drawing the contours along which the frame will be installed. If slats are mounted, then it is used electric drill and level. The elements are fastened to each other and to the wall using screws and dowels. The space that is formed between the wall and the sheathing is filled with insulation. They are able to retain heat in rooms and additionally soundproof.

Wooden sheathing for PVC panels is done as follows:

• the timber is treated with antiseptics;
• slats are fastened along the perimeter of the surface, forming a square or rectangular closed perimeter;
• guides are fixed;
• jumpers are installed;
• The panels are installed using self-tapping screws.

Stages of performing plastic sheathing:

• markings in increments of at least forty centimeters;
• fastener plastic elements using dowels;
• installation of plastic panels using clips that are inserted into special connectors.

During renovations, you don’t always want to deal with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience construction work and in a day or two carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony/loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made from PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is squeezed into a mold. A drawing is applied to the finished panels. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a smooth, but a textured surface. The design applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but similar materials cost about twice as much.

Another technology is to apply the design directly to the plastic, and then cover it with two layers of varnish. Cheaper technology, but the service life and quality of the drawing are lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those intended for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, while those for walls have a thickness of 5 mm and thicker walls and partitions from 8 to 10 mm. You can determine which species is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material differs in that it has flat surface and with tight joining, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges that are more typical for plastic lining. If you decorate the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

The width of plastic wall panels is most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are other non-standard sizes, but these are the most common. There is quite a wide variation in price - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the design, etc.

Title/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Type of staining	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
Pink violet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub.
Kanamala	250 mm * 2700 mm * 9 mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub.
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950 mm * 480 mm * 3 mm		Russia	128 rub.
Scarlet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 RUR

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we discussed products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for refusing to use them. Therefore, thin plastic wall panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and there are no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950 * 480 mm or so.

Their installation method is different - they are glued to the walls. Due to what this has finishing material It is cut at a very small thickness with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But to avoid any difficulties during the installation process, you need to keep track of some points when purchasing:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. You need to take one plank so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, examine it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

The correct technology for installing plastic panels on walls

The good thing about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself and it takes a little time. Well, one more plus - you need the usual tools:

That's all you might need when PVC installation panels on the walls. The time required is one to two days, depending on the availability of experience and the area being repaired.

What to make the sheathing from

Installation of PVC panels on walls according to the technology should be done on the lathing. The sheathing is made from:

Of the three listed materials, it is best to use plastic for installing plastic panels in the bathroom. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanization feels good in a humid environment, but it must be good quality, otherwise it will rust anyway. The most unimportant material is wood, but even with proper treatment, they can last for years. And for this to happen, carefully follow the recommendations for applying an antibacterial composition. In some cases, it is enough to brush it a couple of times, in others it is enough to soak it for a while and then dry it.

How to make lathing

Before installing the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First they shoot old finishing and everything that can fall off. If there are large recesses on the surface, it is better to seal them, and strongly protruding parts can be trimmed off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After this, you can begin installing the sheathing.

The sheathing strips are positioned perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you attach the panels vertically, the sheathing – horizontally and vice versa. Install the sheathing strips at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Optimal distance— 30 ​​cm (the “walk” panel will be smaller). The strips are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The sheathing under the plastic panels is most often secured with dowels. IN concrete wall put 6*40 mm (so that a piece does not fall out from the back side of the concrete partition), in a brick partition - 6*60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be smooth and beautiful, the lathing must be placed in the same plane. To do this, install under wooden planks where necessary. wooden spacers(you can use pieces of plywood), but they also need to be treated with a composition against fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when aligned in one plane metal profiles, but they can also be used when installing wooden blocks.

If you decide to make a lathing from plastic mounting profiles, then it is worth considering one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals/horizontals very carefully. One more point: it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as the plastic guides along the perimeter of the walls, doors and windows: we will attach the starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the plastic wall panels themselves, you will need to buy some more accessories in the store - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the floor and ceiling level, you can use either a starter or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product with a characteristic cut.

Finishing PVC walls panels begins with installing selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top/bottom. They are attached to the installed sheathing strips. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the sheathing. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert the panels into it.

The problem node is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth(we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel to the length or height of the wall. Plastic wall panels are cut with a saw and a metal blade. When working with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean on it - push. To ensure that the strip fits into its designated place without any problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

The protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which the cut side is inserted into the corner profile, tucking the edges into the top and bottom. Lightly tapping with the palm of your hand, push the bar all the way, check the verticality of the level, applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they fix the sheathing to each plank.

Having installed and secured the first strip, cut off the second, join it to the first, secure it, etc. No difficulties. Problems can only arise with last panel on the wall. You usually have to cut it to width, and then try to tuck it immediately into the groove of the previous plank and into the corner or starting profile. It doesn’t always work out neatly—the plastic often gets jammed. This situation can be avoided by not securing the second corner profile. Then a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, the whole thing is joined together with the previous plank and only then the corner profile is secured. This is not entirely correct, since only one half is attached corner profile, and the second remains unsecured. But after you've been tired of trying to do it right, you don't pay attention to it anymore. Then everything is repeated - further finishing of the walls with plastic panels occurs in exactly the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If we are accustomed to the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall, then not everyone likes the corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife. If from the back side in in the right place cut a strip of plastic, the panel can be bent. This will not be visible from the front side, and you will be able to avoid suffering with the last panel. And outwardly, many people like this solution better.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the penultimate panel and secure it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is located. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, and try it on. If everything is fine, we use this piece as a template, moving the exact location of the cut. This is also not a technology, but it seems to me that decorating the walls with plastic panels looks better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls?

Although the method described above for decorating walls with plastic panels is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly smooth after plastering with beacons or. It is clear that lathing is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they violate technology - they glue plastic panels onto silicone or polyurethane foam.

In this case, the starting profiles will still have to be installed, but they will need to be secured to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone is applied to the back side of the panel (in islands in increments of 10-15 cm), the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, and fixed in one or two places with appropriate fasteners. They continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is that it is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on smooth (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the finish without destroying the plastic panels.