When installing lighting and socket circuits in structures for various purposes, one of the main elements is socket boxes. They are designed to securely fix sockets or switches in wooden walls to prevent fire in the event of a short circuit. Products come various types and materials for hidden and external wiring. Depending on installation conditions and functional purpose network, a specific type is selected and the appropriate installation methodology is applied. In this article we will tell you how to install a socket box in a wall made of different material, let's study the installation features.

All socket boxes for installation in walls can be divided according to the following criteria:

• According to the material of manufacture;
• For open or hidden wiring;
• By design, depending on the building material of the walls;
• By size.

How individual look You can select socket boxes for installation in the structure of baseboards, when the wiring is laid in the cable ducts of plastic or aluminum baseboards.

Materials for making socket boxes

The main materials for making socket boxes are metal and non-flammable plastic.

Metal socket boxes are stamped with a press from galvanized iron sheets.

In most cases they are used for installation hidden electrical wiring in wooden walls, this reduces the likelihood of a fire due to a short circuit.

Modern plastic socket boxes are various forms and sizes, depending on the functional purpose, on which walls they are installed.
Plastic socket boxes for baseboard wiring have a square body and a relief that matches the shape of the baseboard on the back wall.

Standard shapes and sizes of socket boxes

Old style metal socket boxes

When manufacturing socket boxes, manufacturers adhere to the standards of the main models of sockets so that their fastenings and dimensions match.

The metal socket boxes are of the old type and therefore the choice of their sizes is not wide. There are models with an internal diameter of 65 mm, the depth of the glass in all cases is 45 mm.

The technological holes can be closed, but stamped with lines; if necessary, they can be easily opened by squeezing out the closing part with pliers from the desired side. Read also the article: → "".

Plastic socket boxes for installation in concrete and brick walls have several types of designs:

• Standard;

• With increased glass depth;
• Oval shaped for installing several sockets from 2-5 pcs;
• Prefabricated blocks on one platform up to 5 pcs.

• Socket boxes for drywall

Plastic socket box with clamping strips for installation in hollow walls, plasterboard, chipboard and other materials

• Socket boxes for baseboards

Installation of metal socket boxes in wooden walls

Preliminary markings are made of the installation locations of sub-sockets and wire routes, which are laid in rigid or corrugated metal pipes. The holes for the socket cups are drilled with special wood bits of the appropriate diameter. The wires are laid in cut grooves and entered into the sub-socket through technological holes made on several sides. The grooves are masked with clapboard or other decorative materials. This method significantly complicates finishing.

It is easier and safer to lay external wiring on wooden walls using corrugated pipes, plastic cable ducts with non-flammable material. Some cable ducts are colored with the structure of wood of various species, which allows you to successfully select harmony with the overall interior. Sometimes wires are laid over ceramic insulators evenly spaced along the line.

Wooden socket boxes for external wiring are rarely used, mostly for decorative purposes.

Surface-mounted sockets and switches do not need to be buried; they can be screwed directly to the walls, through a metal or asbestos gasket. Read also the article: → "".

Installation of socket boxes in concrete and brick walls

The difficulty in installing socket boxes in these walls lies in drilling holes in a solid surface.

For this purpose, special crowns with diamond, tungsten or pobedit teeth are used. After drilling, a number of standard operations are carried out:

• Wires are laid along the walls and secured to the concrete with plastic clips with nails of increased rigidity. When struck sharply with a hammer, they penetrate perfectly into concrete and brick surfaces.
• The ends of the wires are inserted 15-20 cm into holes drilled in the concrete, after which the walls are plastered.
• After the plaster has dried, the wires are threaded into the socket box, which is installed in a hole in the wall using gypsum mortar.
• When the plaster dries, they will paint the walls or make another decorative finishing, it will be possible to cut wires, connect and attach a socket or switch.

Tip #1. Please note that the socket box is installed after plastering the walls, otherwise it will be difficult to calculate the installation depth of the glass. If you recess it completely level with the wall surface, it will be 1-2 cm deeper after plastering. Set above level concrete surface This is not possible due to the unknown exact thickness of the plaster in this place. To avoid level changes and to ensure that the socket is pressed tightly against the wall surface, the socket box must be installed on a plastered wall.

Socket boxes with increased glass depth are used when several more sockets, switches or other wiring elements are connected to the network from one socket. In this case it starts large number wires, to accommodate them the socket box is made deeper.

Installation of socket boxes in plasterboard, plywood, chipboard walls with hollow space

For this case, the socket boxes have special design with clamping bars. The installation sequence includes the following operations:

• In most cases, the wiring is installed behind a plasterboard wall;
• When installing the structure, marks are made on the front side of the wall where the socket boxes will be placed;
• Then holes are drilled in the drywall using a special device, and the wires are pulled out 15 -20 cm;
• Wires are threaded into the technological holes, the socket box is inserted into the hole;
• By rotating the screwdriver of the bolts on the body of the socket box, the strips press it from the back side to the wall surface;

An example of how a socket box is pressed against drywall

• After finishing the front surface of the wall, you can install and connect sockets.

Approximate prices for fastening elements and socket boxes for hollow walls

Elements	Dimensions in mm	COST in RUB.
Screw for fixing sockets	3.1:10 mm	6
Screw for fixing sockets	3.1:25 mm	8
Single box box	Ø 68mm, glass height 50mm	75
Regular box	Ø 68mm, cup depth 65mm	90
Box with two glasses	Ø 2x68mm, glass depth 50mm	180
Box for installing sconces	Ø 35mm, cup depth 40mm	130

Installation of socket boxes for wiring laid in baseboards

Plastic skirting boards with cable ducts provide for the installation of specially shaped socket boxes in their design. These socket boxes have the shape of a box with holes for mounting the socket:

• At the installation site, a hole is made in the plinth for the wires to exit, or on the laying line, gaps are provided between the sections of the plinth.
• The relief of the back wall of the socket box perfectly matches the external relief of the baseboard, so they fit tightly together, the body of the socket box is screwed to the wall or floor;
• The wires are pulled out and connected to the socket terminals;
• The socket is inserted into the socket box and secured with screws.

Tip #2. In the absence of a socket box of the appropriate profile, the socket can be installed closely above the baseboard, with a design for hidden or external wiring. Surface-mounted sockets are easier to install; the wire from the plinth passes through a small recess in the wall into the socket body unnoticeably, and looks very aesthetically pleasing.

Tools and attachments used for drilling holes for socket boxes in walls made of various materials

To drill holes, use a conventional hammer drill with replaceable attachments:

• Crowns are used for drilling concrete or brick walls various diameters with diamond, pobeditov or tungsten teeth.

In the center of the cylinder there is a guide drill, which holds the bit within the specified diameter when drilling.
After the crown has passed to a given depth, the brick or concrete components inside the diameter are knocked out with a regular chisel and hammer

Sizes and costs of crowns from different manufacturers

Brand	Manufacturer	Length in mm	Cutting elements	Ømm
Messer	South Korea	70	3pcs	68	3 090
Projahn 81565	Germany	50	6pcs	65	3 310
Versio Projahn 852065		100	16pcs	68	7 400
Bosch 2.608.550.0		60	6pcs		5 190
Practice 035-172	Russia	68	8pcs		830
Master Stayer 29190-68	Germany	133			740
Santool SDS Max	China	140			520

• For drilling wooden surfaces The principle is similar, but the teeth have a shape and material suitable for drilling wood.

The advantage of this nozzle design is that it does not require knocking out internal elements, they are completely cleaned.

Thickness and other parameters of some types of drywall:

GKL
Material grade	Length in mm	Width in mm	Thickness in mm
GVL	1500 2000 2500 2700 3000	500 1000 1200	10 12.5 15 18 20
Moisture resistant	2000 — 4500	1200 — 1300	6 — 13

The plates with teeth must be made of high-quality hardened steel, otherwise they will be enough for 2-3 holes. The depth of the crowns varies and is selected according to the thickness of the material to be drilled.

• Drywall can be easily drilled with any attachments for wood or concrete.

Grooves in concrete, brick and wooden walls are sawn through with a grinder special disks.

There are industrial wall chasers, but they are very expensive and only pay for themselves when working in large volumes. construction companies.

Wood cutting disc

Errors when installing socket boxes

• Drywall, plywood chipboard are drilled in drilling mode, hammer drills often forget to switch from impact mode, as a result of which the surface immediately breaks, especially gypsum board.
• During installation open wiring on wooden walls, they often forget to install asbestos plates under cable ducts and sockets. This is required by the governing documents of the PUE and is necessary for reasons of one’s own safety. Such measures significantly reduce the likelihood of a fire. Read also the article: → "".
• During installation, the top edge of the socket box should be installed at the same level with the front side of the wall and the decorative covering. Otherwise, the socket may not be attracted to the wall or the mounting bolts will not reach the socket box;
• The level of plaster within the socket box must be perfectly level, then the socket will fit tightly to the wall; if the level of plaster changes, gaps may form between the wall and the body of the sockets;
• The wires are inserted into the socket box before it is secured with a plaster solution, the length of the ends is not shorter than 15-20 cm, so that it is enough to remove the insulation and fasten the contacts. With short wires, it will be inconvenient to connect sockets and switches and install them in a socket box.

Frequently Asked Questions

Question No. 1. The wall is made of chipboard, there are no metal socket boxes with clamping strips, can you put plastic glasses on wood?

Most modern building materials are made non-flammable, including plastic socket boxes and chipboard.

Question No. 2. I'm going to plaster concrete wall, is it necessary to make grooves for wiring?

It is enough to secure the wire compactly with clips and plaster it, but at the same time make recesses for inserting the wires into the technological holes of the socket cup; they cannot be inserted from above.

Question No. 3. Possible in wooden log house lay the wire between the logs and cover it up?

Only in metal pipes or non-flammable cable ducts.

Question No. 4. Can deep socket boxes be used as distribution boxes?

Yes, there is a special installation method in this way; this issue requires separate consideration.

In this article we will examine in detail the question of how to install socket box on concrete. Having well-written instructions in your hands, supplemented with detailed photographs and comments from a specialist, solving this issue will not pose any difficulties for you. is the foundation of installation
electrical wiring elements, such as sockets, switches, dimmers, and so on, so the quality of its installation needs to be given special attention.

Basically, all socket boxes are divided into two main groups:

1. Concrete sockets - used for installation in concrete, brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete, blocks made of expanded clay.The installation of the socket box is carried out in a pre-prepared hole by fixing it with a solution of plaster or alabaster.
2. Socket boxes for plasterboard - used for installation in plasterboard, chipboard, various types of plywood, SML sheets. Installation is carried out by fixing the socket box using the spacer tabs available on it into a pre-prepared hole. You can read the instructions on our website in the corresponding article.

In this article, we will examine in detail how socket boxes are installed on concrete.

Making the markings

Before installing the socket box, it is necessary to mark the location of the future socket or switch, since each installation element has its own installation coordinates.

Some standards that electricians often use are listed below:

• sockets in living rooms- 30 centimeters from the clean floor (the so-called “Euro standard”);
• sockets above kitchen countertop- 110-120 centimeters;
• socket above washing machine- 1 meter;
• switch, pass-through switch, dimmer - 90 centimeters from the clean floor.

However, it is worth noting that these standards are not fundamental and you can edit them as you wish, according to your taste and discretion.

Let's start installation. We measure the required distance from the floor to the planned switch or socket. If there is no clean floor yet, we add +5 centimeters to our dimensions for screed and laminate (linoleum).

For the switch, you can use the hand measuring technique. Approach the place of planned installation, place your hand down, notice a comfortable position. This method allows you to customize the switch specifically for you. If several people use the switch, you can take average length hands.

Next, measure the required distance from the wall to the socket box. If you plan to install the switch near the door, then measure the required distance from its edge; 15-18 centimeters from the edge of the passage arch, excluding the door frame, is considered optimal.

Now, mark all the dimensions with a pencil on the wall.

The marking is done.

Making a hole for the socket box

All concrete sockets are mounted into the wall using alabaster or gypsum mortar, but before installing the socket it is necessary to make a hole in which it will be installed. There are many ways in which it can be made. We will look at three of the simplest and most effective.

Method 1. Crown for concrete sockets

The main device for making holes for socket boxes in concrete is a concrete and brick crown with a diameter of 70 millimeters.

The standard diameter of the socket is 67 millimeters; some manufacturers also have a diameter of 68 mm.

Rice. Crown for socket boxes on concrete

According to the diameter of the cylinder, the crown for socket boxes for concrete has Pobedit teeth, with which it cuts a circle; in the middle there is a Pobedit drill for centering. The crown is installed on a hammer drill or electric drill and by means of rotation or rotation with impact, a hole is made.

We move the wire to the side so as not to damage it when drilling and make a hole.

The crown should be completely recessed into the wall.

To facilitate the drilling process, you can first, in the center of the marking of the future socket box, drill a centering hole using the usual Pobedit drill, in this case it will be much easier for the crown to cut through the wall material.

We take out the crown and bring the resulting hole to the desired depth. This can be done using an impact bit on a hammer drill or a chisel and hammer.

We considered the first option for making a hole for a socket box, in which we used a crown for socket boxes for concrete. Let's consider the following method.

Method 2. Using an impact drill, hammer drill and pobedit drill

In order to use this method, the first thing you need to do is outline the socket box. We attach it to the wall and outline it with a pencil.

Then we go around the perimeter in a circle. The denser and deeper the holes are drilled, the easier it will be to clean the hole from the wall elements later.

Now, it's up to a hammer and chisel or a hammer drill with an impact bit. We bring the hole to the required size.

Method 3. Making a hole using a grinder (angle grinder)

This method is the fastest of all the above, but also the dustiest. I don’t think there’s much need to explain its meaning. It is particularly suitable, for example, when socket boxes are required to be installed in a concrete wall.

The execution process is simple, we take an angle grinder (angle grinder) and off we go.

We cut all the marked lines: a central cross and a square along the perimeter of the outlined socket box. Be careful with the wire.

After everything is cut, we knock out the squares from the hole with a chisel or bat and bring it to the desired depth. As a rule, the depth of the circle is less than the depth of the socket box, so using this method be prepared to knock a little.

We adjust the hole to the size of the socket box

After making the hole, we check how the socket box fits into it. Since the diameter of the socket is smaller than the diameter of the crown, there will be no problems with the width, but you need to look at the depth.

The hole must be brought to such a depth that the socket box falls into it a little, about 4-5 millimeters. This reserve is necessary because, in addition to the socket box itself, a fixing solution (gypsum, alabaster) will be placed inside the hole, and some space will also be needed for bending the wire entering the socket box.

To make the following stages of work easier after installing the socket box, I recommend cutting off the edges of the made hole. This action can be performed using a knife. Due to the manipulations we have performed, the socket box will be sunk into the hole along with the outer skirt, which will make it possible to install it flush with the wall. This installation feature will allow you to perform an ideal installation of a socket or switch by maximally pressing its metal mounting frame, and therefore the plastic decorative frame, against the wall. As a rule, a non-recessed socket skirt can give a gap of the socket frame from the wall of about 1-2 mm.

Now, you need to insert the wire into the socket box; to do this, we make a small groove for it in the upper part of the hole. You can make a groove using a chisel and a hammer or a hammer drill with an impact bit. Soft material You can even chop walls with a chisel. In our example, this is exactly what we use.

The strobe is ready.

The wire should be easy to install without interfering with the electrical outlet.

Now, turn the socket box over. On its back we see specially prepared slots for the wire.

Select the one you need and cut it out with a knife. It is very advisable to run the wire from the back of the socket box; this will greatly facilitate the subsequent installation of the socket or switch and protect the wire from damage.

The hole is made.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole.

Nothing should interfere and let me remind you, there should be a reserve of 2-3 millimeters in depth for the fixing solution.

Everything fits, everything has been checked. We clean the hole from debris and dust and proceed to preparing the gypsum solution.

Preparation of gypsum solution

To prepare the solution, we need a mixing container.

For our purposes you can use:

• building gypsum
• medical plaster
• alabaster

Pour a small amount of gypsum into a container.

You should get a homogeneous, creamy mixture of medium thickness.

The resulting solution has a very short time for use; literally after 2-3 minutes the solution will begin to harden very quickly, and after 5 minutes it will no longer be suitable for use.

Installation of a socket box

Using the resulting solution, we fix the socket box in the hole. Before installation, the hole must be thoroughly moistened with water. Water acts as a primer and washes away fine dust. We wait until the water is absorbed for 2-3 minutes.

We put the socket on the wire and insert it into the hole. The solution should cover well back wall the socket box being squeezed out of the slots of the holes.

We align it so that the screws are located horizontally to the floor, and the glass itself is flush with the wall or 1-1.5 mm deeper. You can check the installation depth by placing a level with the flat side to the wall diagonally across the socket box. The most important thing is that it does not stick out, otherwise there will be a bump, and therefore later there will be problems with installing the socket or switch.

The main fixation has been completed, so we do not move the glass of the socket box anymore, otherwise the solution will not set and the socket box will not be properly fixed.

Now, we make additional fixation by placing the solution in the side gaps between the wall and the socket box. You need to not just coat the solution around, but rather put it in the gaps.

Now, you can smear it around.

The socket is installed.

We wait for it to dry completely and only then remove the excess solution that got inside the socket. When dry, it separates well from the plastic.

I would like to note that the installation of socket boxes in a concrete wall is carried out similarly to the example discussed. The only difficulty here, as a rule, is making a hole in the concrete, as suggested above, it is better to do it with an angle grinder (angle grinder), method 3.

The next step is, you can read the installation instructions on our website in the relevant articles.

If you are interested in more detailed description connection and installation of various electrical wiring elements (sockets with and without grounding, various switches, including backlit ones, chandeliers, lamps, exhaust fan bathroom) you might be interested in.

How to install a double socket box

To install two sockets in one frame, the installation of two socket boxes is required. Let's take a closer look at how it's done this type installation

Docking with each other is done using a connector (butterfly).

There are special grooves on the side of the socket boxes into which they are inserted.

In this way you can assemble a garland of 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 and so on socket boxes.

For our example, we only need two. We make markings. We measure the distance from the floor.

Using a level, draw an even horizontal strip at the desired height.

Now, using one of the three methods outlined above, we make two hole holes.

The difference from installing a single socket box is that after making the hole, you need to connect the two holes to each other. This is done so that the connector connecting the two socket boxes fits into the holes. It is ideal to cut through these joints with a grinder.

After making the holes, just as in the example of installing a single socket box, we lower the wire into one of the two holes obtained in the groove.

The rest of the installation is carried out similarly to a single socket box.

The last point that deserves special attention is the strict approach to aligning them horizontally when fixed with plaster. It is necessary to plant on a gypsum solution only with a level; the greater the number of socket boxes in the chain, the stricter this requirement.

The installation of various electrical wiring elements is described in as detailed and colorful a manner as possible.

To complete the work we used:

Material

• plaster, alabaster
• socket box

Installing sockets in a concrete wall is quite a complicated matter, like everything related to electricity, because it requires special care. If you decide to do this work, be sure to strictly follow technological process. Installation of new sockets is important issue, since after each renovation or simply moving furniture, you change your home. For ease of use of certain devices, they are moved to more “accessible” places. If you want to do everything yourself, you need to know the theoretical minimum, which I will talk about in this article.

Getting started preparatory stage, you must already have purchased an electrical appliance, and also purchased necessary materials, tools and the work area was brought into proper shape.

Typically, the location of sockets is not regulated in height, so electrical appliances can be installed wherever you want, observing only one condition: heating, gas and water supply systems must be 1 meter away from the point you choose for installation. The exception is the toilet and bathroom; Under no circumstances should electrical outlets be installed in them.

Required tools and materials

To work you will definitely need:

1. Electrical socket (better take a product with a ceramic base);
2. An appropriately sized installation box;
3. Cable and conductor products;
4. Alabaster.

For equipment, select:

• perforator;
• chisel;
• spatula;
• indicator screwdriver.

Types of sockets

There are several main types of sockets. By type of installation there are: built-in for open and built-in for internal wiring. Built-in ones are used when wires run through the wall. This usually happens in apartments, as this is a guarantee of safety. Overheads are more suitable for wooden houses, where the wiring goes on top of the wall.

Sockets with protective curtains are good because the openings are protected. The curtains move back only when the fork is inserted. They can open upward, with a certain pressure, in a circular motion, etc.

Sockets with ejectors are suitable for using multiple appliances when you need to frequently pull out the plug and replace it with another one.

A socket with a timer is more suitable for children and the elderly. You can program it to turn on a particular device. This, for example, can be done with a teapot.

Sockets with indicator. Using the indicator, you can determine whether there is current in the network.

Installation instructions

Marking

First of all, we start marking - using a tape measure and a pencil, we mark the center of the future outlet on the wall. When installing the block, apply all centers.

Holes in a concrete wall

For further installation of socket boxes, make a hole in the concrete wall. To make the job easier, use a hammer drill and prepare a special crown. You use it to make holes with a depth of 50 to 60mm. Then you insert the concrete bit into the hammer drill and use it to mark the future dimensions of the hole.

Make 12 holes along the resulting length. Drill them to the installation depth of the selected socket boxes (usually no more than 50 mm). Using a spatula attachment, remove any remaining concrete.

Electrical wiring installation

After you have made all the holes and punched the grooves to them, you can begin installing the electrical wiring. You must route the power wires to the sockets. Best option: each has its own electrical cable.

Installation of socket boxes

At this stage, carefully follow the things I described, because durability, reliability, convenience and, of course, your safety depend on it.

Considering the number of socket boxes you want to install, assemble the appropriate block. Let's take two things as an example.

1. Connect two sockets together.
2. Make the plugs needed to enter the cable.
3. Remove any excess connectors that would interfere with installation.
4. Try on the socket box, placing it in the already formed hole. Once you are sure that it is not sticking out, protruding or tilted, you can proceed to the next step.

1. Clean the hole from dust.
2. Prime with a special primer that guarantees durability.
3. Dilute putty or plaster mixture on a gypsum basis. Then apply the mixture inside the holes. In such cases, the use of alabaster is also allowed.

Important! You need to work quickly because the plaster hardens in a very short period of time.

1. “Press” the socket boxes with the wires in them into the solution.

Wall decoration

Next, you need to prime and then cover significant chips, dips and depressions with plaster. The socket boxes themselves need to be coated especially carefully. After the wall has dried, putty and sand the areas to make everything look smooth and beautiful.

After this, you can safely go to finishing(paint, wallpaper, etc.).

Safely forgotten times global shortage, hidden sockets were installed forever. The block with terminals was literally walled up in concrete or in a brick wall. Sometimes without a mounting box at all. Ordinary citizens had no right to dream about repairing an electrical point with their own hands. Nowadays, a beginner in electrical engineering can handle fixing and connecting the upgraded device without any problems. The developers of the sockets have thoroughly thought out and polished the entire process of their installation. An important point The process is the installation of socket boxes, thanks to which the repair and replacement of devices does not cause negligible difficulties.

Criteria for selecting an installation box

The supply of wires must be formed into loops or “soft” folds. The formation of sharp creases is extremely undesirable. The loops should be placed at the bottom of the installation box so that the wire sections stripped of insulation do not touch.

The current-carrying cores of wires with a cross-section of 2.5 square meters or more of the specified size are quite rigid. Rolling them up and laying them in loops under the socket block will be very problematic if the internal depth of the socket box is 15-30 usable cm. This means that to install an socket connected to a source with a thick cable, a deeper socket box will be required.

Algorithm for installing a socket box in a solid wall

Owners wooden baths simpler. The requirements of the PUE recommend the installation of open wiring and installation of overhead sockets. They will not have any special complications with either laying the power line or attaching the supply points. Owners of cultural and hygienic objects made of concrete or brick will have to go through a thorny and labor-intensive path. But before you move in the chosen direction, you should figure out how to install a socket box in a solid wall.

Starting stage: marking

For a home handyman who is ignorant of the intricacies of organizing bath wiring, marking undoubtedly seems like the simplest process. But no. You will have to follow the code of laws of the PUE:

• in doubles and washing rooms installation of sockets in shower compartments and saunas plug type with all necessary belongings is prohibited;
• The bathhouse electrical network must be connected to the grounding circuit or to lightning protection;
• the socket should be removed at least 60 cm from the doorway of the shower stall located in the bathhouse;
• The power supply for the bath wiring may be installed in the rest room;
• The shield should be equipped with a automatic device or other means of protection.

There is advice that is not specified in the PUE rules, but has a technically justified right to exist. It is better to connect the cable to the outlet from below so that drops of condensation do not accidentally flow into the device. Especially if, due to an incorrectly installed socket box, there are gaps between the protective frame and the wall. The height of the outlet is selected arbitrarily in the range of 30 – 60 cm from the floor line. This parameter does not have any limits: i.e. We install it in a way that is convenient for us to use.

It was not in vain that we talked about inserting the cable into the socket box. After all, a fine will need to be chiseled under it, which also applies to labor-intensive and dusty tasks. The cable costs money. Then you have to seal the furrow with plaster, alabaster or cement mortar. Again costs. This means that in the name of cutting costs, you need to figure out in advance how to rationally arrange the power line, and then:

• we will draw on the wall the shortest path for the future movement of the electrodes and determine on it the optimal point for mounting the box;
• through the selected point we draw a horizontal line with a vertical line, controlling our own intuition with a level gauge, a square and a plumb line;
• from the center of their intersection we will set aside segments equal to the outer radius of the socket box;
• Let's attach this installation box to the wall, turning its back towards us;
• Let's combine the marked points with the edges of the box and draw its outline on the hay.

Well prepared. Now you can begin to form the grooves and the main hole.

"Drilling and crushing" process

You can drill a concrete wall with a grinder. But it is much more useful to stock up on a hammer drill with diamond crown, used to form wide holes. We drew some semblance of a carbine sight on the wall for a reason. The central point of the drawing is needed to correctly hit the designated place of the drill annular crown. The drill will drill into the thickness of the wall first and direct the crown in the right direction. Let's not forget about the drilling depth limiter. It will automatically shut down the tool when it reaches its intended target. We calculate the depth by adding 1.5 cm to the height of the socket to apply adhesive solution to the bottom of the hole.

The sequence of drilling a hole for the installation box:

• we will wet a section of the wall if our bit is not intended for dry drilling of concrete structures;
• We will equip the hammer drill with the drill we have;
• install the drill at the designated point;
• Sticking to the “rotation with impact” mode, let’s start with a couple of test runs;
• We drill the wall until the tool stops.

In the absence of a hammer drill, you can use an impact drill, and to make several narrow holes nearby and modify the recess to the desired size with a chisel. In general, you can only “make holes” in the wall with a chisel, but this is tedious and takes too long.

Direct installation of the mounting box

• Let's try the installation box to the formed hole. Don't let the depth reserve scare you. Plaster, cement mortar or alabaster will help align everything with the wall. Construction alabaster hardens too quickly for the inexperienced hands of a home craftsman. It is better to secure the box in the hole using plaster.
• Having made sure that the work with the hole for the socket box has been successfully completed, we will bring the hole to it along the drawn path. It’s better to cut through it with a grinder and finish it off with a chisel.
• Let's break out the hatch in its sidewall intended by the manufacturer of the box. We will then pull the cable through the resulting hole.
• Clean the drilled hole from cement dust and treat it with a primer.
• We apply plaster into the hole without ostentatious generosity.
• We insert the socket box into the hole so that the broken hatch for introducing the cable is opposite the hole. We press down the box until it is flush with the “damaged” wall.
• After 7-10 minutes, remove excess plaster and level the surface with a spatula.
• We wait a couple of hours for the plaster to harden, then we connect the wiring to the box.
• Let's lay the cable along the groove intended for it, calculating that it needs to be inserted approximately 20 cm into the socket box.
• To temporarily fix the cable in the groove, we use alabaster, because it sets quickly. We apply alabaster patches every half meter.
• Having retreated approximately 5 cm from the outline of the hole for the box, we fix the cable with a plastic bracket for reliability.

At the end, we insert the power line into the hatch of the socket box and... we peacefully rub our hands, because the installation of the box is completed.

We install the rosettes for the socket cable in exactly the same way. We just drill a large hole, having first drawn out all the contours of the boxes on the wall. For two sockets located in a row, a wonderful alternative is sold - a box with “two seats”.

The process of installing a socket box in a hollow wall

Hidden electrical wiring is laid not only in monolithic walls, but also in hollow partitions made of plasterboard or other sheet material. For installation, socket boxes with spacer tabs are then used, ensuring perfect fixation of the box in the hollow wall.

Drilling wide holes will now require a drywall drill bit. You can attach it not to a hammer drill, but simply to a drill. There is no need to cut the grooves at all; the cable will lie freely between the sheets attached to the metal frame.

We proceed according to the following scheme:

• In the box, by analogy with the method described above, we break out the hatch.
• We insert the socket box into the formed hole and insert the cable through the hatch.
• We tighten the two mounting screws that tighten the legs of the box. They will rest against the wall material on the back side. We do not tighten the screws all the way at once, but tighten them one by one. First, we will tighten one of them a little, then the second, so that there are no distortions due to deformation of the material.

Installation of boxes for soldering units and switches in plasterboard walls is done in exactly the same way.

Additional video instruction

Having sufficiently admired the result of your labor, you can begin connecting the socket mechanism. It can be secured in the socket box either using sliding legs or with simple screws, for screwing which there are threaded holes on the walls of the box. Inexperienced home electricians are better off using screws, because... The fixation with the paws is not very reliable and can disappoint due to the azimuthal misalignment. So, we’ll attach it with screws, close it with a decorative lid on top and we’ll be happy to use the installed one. on our own electrical point.

Installation boxes serve as the basis for sockets, therefore they must be installed in compliance with all proportions. After selecting a socket box that is suitable in shape and size, you need to begin marking the area, preparing fasteners or a mixture, and installing the structure.

The first stage of installation of socket boxes: markings and rules for the location of the installation box

When marking, it is necessary to comply with the PUE standards:

1. Plug-type sockets can be installed in any premises, with the exception of washing, shower compartments and saunas.
2. It is necessary to first connect the electrical network to the ground loop or lightning rod.
3. The outlet must be removed at least 60 cm from water bodies.
4. It is advisable to install power wiring in the living room or hall.
5. The shield must be protected by a difavtomat or similar device.

We cut holes in the drywall for installing socket boxes

Advice! It is advisable to bring the cable to the socket from the bottom position. This method guarantees safety for the electrical network, since when condensation forms, drops will not be able to flow into the device powered by electrical energy. This rule must be strictly observed if the socket box is installed incorrectly, as a result of which a gap has formed between the wall and the protective frame.

Prices for socket boxes

socket box

Rules for installing socket boxes

If the location of the wiring passes through the partition and is masked by the cladding, then connecting the wires in such places is prohibited. In this case, creating jumpers is possible only in boxes where the section of hidden electrical wiring ends.

You need to be careful when inserting the cable into the socket box. A groove is formed under it, which must exactly match the contours of this installation. After installing the cable, all gaps are filled with plaster, cement or similar mortar.

To reduce the cost of conducting the electrical network and installing socket boxes, it is necessary to correctly position the power line:

1. A conventional line is drawn on the surface along which the shortest path for moving the electrodes can be achieved. The best location for the installation box must be calculated.
2. Through the marked point you need to draw horizontal and vertical lines. They are drawn using a square and a plumb line. Lines can be formed with an ordinary pencil.
3. From the central point of intersection of these lines, it is necessary to set aside a distance equal to the radius of the socket boxes.
4. The installation box is applied to the wall, turning its front side to the surface.
5. The marked points must be compared with the contour of the installation box and its outline must be drawn.

When you plan to use crowns on a concrete or stone surface, there is no need to outline the contours of the socket box, since the clearance in the structure is made one-time using a hammer drill and drill. Select a drill with a special tip of about Ø 6 mm in diameter. The recommended clearance depth is approximately 7 cm. When the procedure for forming the hole is completed, you need to insert a crown with a drill mounted into it into the resulting space and form a complete recess for installing the socket box.

The crown should be selected in advance, focusing on the parameters of the socket box. This element must have small diameter compared to the socket box. It should be taken into account that in finished design sockets must fit.

Video - detailed information information on installing socket boxes

Installation of socket boxes in a concrete or brick structure

For correct installation It is necessary to carry out the following actions:

Step 1. The groove compartment near the socket box is deeply buried or the line is beveled. This is necessary for the cable to fit accurately into the allocated connector.

Step 2. A recess is made in the socket box for cable entry. It is formed exactly to the required size to eliminate the possibility of getting caught mortar when installing a socket box. You need to make sure that it is optimal in order to pass a certain number of wires into it, taking into account their braiding. To deepen the holes, it is advisable to use preheated open fire knife. This device provides the greatest guarantee that the components of the socket box will not break or become deformed.

Step 3. If purchased universal design socket box, then before installing it you need to remove the special tabs intended for fastening.

Step 4. The recess in the surface for installing the socket box must first be cleared of debris and dust. This can be done by hand, but using a brush or small cloth is more effective. It is advisable to prime the concrete or moisten it with water before installing the structure. If you neglect this rule, moisture from the alabaster will quickly transfer to the concrete, which will cause it to harden too quickly.

Advice! Before installing the socket box, you need to pay attention to the parameters of the socket. There are options that do not fit into a Ø 5 cm socket box. If such a situation arises, a universal socket box will be required. It has a diameter that is suitable for inserting any sockets.

Step 5. To install the socket box, you need a small hard container. Alabaster should be kneaded in it. To work, you will need a small spatula. If you don't have one, you can use a trowel, but its edges must be sharp. With the help of these elements, alabaster can be quickly placed inside.

Advice! Alabaster should be used in small quantities, as large volumes of material will quickly harden and become useless. The resulting mixture should be like thick sour cream, but you should not make the solution too liquid so that it does not drain from the wall.

Prices for alabaster

alabaster

Step 6. The mixture is applied in a thin layer along the walls. After this, you should immediately install the socket box. It is necessary to mount the structure carefully, without bringing the element all the way, since the alabaster should remain not only near the side walls, but also from the back. The structure cannot be pressed into the wall; this could cause the fastening to become loose. To check the correct location of the installation box, you need to use building level. This should be done immediately after installation, since after a short period of time the alabaster will dry completely and any correction of the socket will become impossible.

Using alabaster to install a socket box

When installing a socket box in a block or brick wall, you need to use the installation technology described above. It should be remembered that the use of crowns is not recommended, since concrete blocks they may be subject to vibration, causing the holes to expand. If you decide to install them, you need to take care of creating a more massive layer of alabaster.

Advice! Under the influence of time, the socket boxes can gradually come out of the recesses. To avoid this inconvenience, the structure is secured with screws in holes specially designed for this purpose. Additional fastenings can be made only if the holes for fastening are located accurately vertical or horizontally, which must be adjusted when installing the structure.

Installation of socket boxes in wood and drywall

Step 1. To deepen the installation box into wooden wall, a crown must be used. To secure the structure, the paws of the socket box are used. No alabaster mixture is needed. Special legs are pressed in so that the structure fits freely into the recess designed for it, and then they are screwed, tightly fixing the element in the wall. The cable can only be brought in after completion installation work, pre-lining it with corrugation or metal hose.

Socket box installation process

Advice! Before laying the cable, you need to disconnect this element from the power supply and check that the switches are in the off state. As soon as the cable is inserted into the socket box, it is necessary to separate all the wires and install the socket. If it is installed later, the edges of the cable should be insulated.

Step 2. Installation of socket boxes in plasterboard walls has its own differences. You need to purchase installation boxes that are specifically designed for this surface. Ideally, they have round contours without protrusions or recesses. It is easiest to form a completely round hole in a sheet of drywall.

Step 3. The socket box is applied to the drywall in a predetermined place, after which its contours are outlined. Using a crown with a diameter of 5 cm, a hole is formed. If there is no such element, use thin sharp knife or a small piece of a hacksaw. Using such a tool, a small hole is formed, which is deliberately made smaller than planned.

Step 4. You need to attach a socket box to the resulting recess and try to install it. It won’t be possible to deepen it, but you can easily determine everything problem areas, which prevent the element from being inserted into the wall. The excess contours are gradually cut out until the ideal hole is reached, after which the installation box can be placed deeper.

Nuances when working

• When sealing the fastener, you need to control the fluidity, that is, the consistency of the mixture. To properly install the box, a composition of moderate thickness is required, since the viscous mixture cannot penetrate into all compartments of the structure.
• When using cement composition It is difficult to sink the socket box to the required level manually, so you have to knock it down with a hammer. This action must be performed carefully so as not to provoke the formation of chips on the product.
• When gypsum is used as a mixture for installing a socket box, the work must be done quickly. You cannot be distracted and take breaks until the main installation and initial leveling are completed, since gypsum has a tendency to harden quickly.
• The correct consistency can only be determined if there is personal experience. For installation of a socket box different people a special consistency is required, since the same mixture in the hands of each master gives different results.

Should not be used gypsum plaster for installation of installation boxes, since working with this material is complicated by problematic situations:

1. The plaster dries almost instantly and adheres tightly to the spatula, which requires regular wetting.
2. The mixture does not harden at the same time, so when certain areas harden, some of them still need to dry. If you start leveling the surface too early, it can cause deformation of the structure.

Video - installation of socket boxes in a concrete and brick wall

In order to properly install the socket box and ensure its successful use, it is advisable to purchase sockets and switches along with this element, checking that they fit together. You can install the installation box into any wall if you follow the tips listed and carry out the necessary actions quickly and carefully.