The leadership in the manufacture of the Buleryan stove, or as it is also called, Breneran, belongs to Canadian heating engineers, who were tasked with developing an effective small-sized design for heating temporary housing for teams of lumberjacks. The technical specifications were embodied in a solid fuel unit, vaguely reminiscent of the familiar potbelly stove. Due to the improved combustion chamber and the use of forced convection, specialists were able to increase efficiency and reduce the time required to warm up the coldest room. Today, such solid fuel stoves are mass-produced, and model range any manufacturer includes up to a dozen units that differ from each other both in power and design. Since factory-made products often have a completely unaffordable price, we recommend making buleryan with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Canadian stove

The specifics of using the Buleryan stove initially required compliance with several mandatory requirements, which subsequently made the unit famous throughout the world. The design of the heating device had to ensure:

1. Mobility. Since cutting down trees involves constant movement through the forest, the logger’s stove is constantly transported from one place to another, and from transport to room is carried by hand.
2. Compactness. The unit must have a configuration and dimensions that make it possible to install the device in small temporary buildings.
3. Safety. Since the operation of a buleryan involves installing a heating device directly in a residential area, its design must exclude the possibility of carbon monoxide leakage. This was made possible due to the sealed working chamber and the decision in favor of a single-door design. Another important plus is that the configuration of the body prevents the body of the furnace from accidentally touching the hot metal.
4. Performance. Using forced convection makes it possible to warm up a room in record time. This condition is met thanks to a system of channels that accelerate air exchange.
5. Possibility of long-term work. Configuration working area and the design of the blower allows the buleryan to work for several hours on one load of fuel, and firewood, bark, wood chips, shavings, etc. can be used as fuel.
   It is not recommended to heat the stove with coal, because due to high temperature When this fuel burns, the metal of the body overheats and becomes deformed. As a result, the geometry of the device is distorted, the combustion door does not close, and cracks in the places of welded joints.
   

   It is quite easy to circumvent the manufacturers' ban on the use of high-temperature fuel. To do this, it is enough to equip the lower part of the heat exchangers with a manifold and supply air using any blower. Accelerating heat transfer will reduce the temperature of the buleryan to a safe level.

6. Simplicity and reliability. When developing the design of the solid fuel unit, engineers took into account that it would be operated in places remote from civilization. To manufacture or repair a Canadian potbelly stove, no special equipment or expensive materials are required, and for a beginner to operate the stove, a little instruction is sufficient.

As you can see, the advantages of Buleryan were incorporated into the design at the design stage. Perhaps the developers had no idea that their brainchild would become so popular and would be used both in everyday life and in production. Of course, like any other design, a convection oven of this type is not without some disadvantages. First of all, the unit achieves its declared performance only when using absolutely dry firewood. When the fuel humidity is more than 10%, the released water vapor prevents the flow of air and reduces the combustion intensity, which leads to a decrease in efficiency. In addition, like any potbelly stove, the Buleryan does not retain heat at all - it is enough for the fuel to burn out and the temperature in the room begins to drop.

The disadvantages of the design include the fact that the operation of the stove assumes a gas-generating mode of operation, in which the wood smolders more than it burns. This process is accompanied by increased smoke formation, which leads to the release harmful substances and tar deposits in the smoke channel. Often the outer part of the chimney and nearby areas of the roof are covered with an oily substance, which does not add any attractiveness to the picture. It is also important that when installing a stove, additional requirements are put forward for thermal insulation and the height of the chimney, otherwise the efficiency of its operation will be reduced.

As you can see, the unit is not without its shortcomings, which both the developers and the owners honestly point out. Nevertheless, the numerous advantages of Buleryan have made this heater one of the most popular units on the market of compact solid fuel equipment.

Varieties with photos and geography of use of buleryan

In order to understand the difference between buleryan, breneran, buller, Butakov oven and other types of convection ovens, let’s take a closer look at all the nuances. First of all, we note that “Buleryan” is a brand of the German company Bulerjan, which produces super-potbelly stoves. Ovens of this type are often called the shorter word buller. “Breneran” are the same units, but produced by domestic factories under license. The furnace developed in Russia by Professor Butakov is very similar in operating principle to the original design, but has some differences:

• recessed convection heat exchangers;
• cubic body shape instead of cylindrical;
• the use of an ash pan and grate;
• flat platform at the top of the cabinet for heating food.

In fact, the use of a grate in a gas-generating unit is unnecessary, since intensive burning of wood is expected only in the first minutes after ignition. In addition, its purpose is unclear, given that it is located below the level of the ash pit. There are also doubts about the effectiveness of the platform for installing a pot or kettle. When entering operating mode, the temperature of the buleryan rarely reaches even 75 ° C, so it will take a lot of time to warm up the food.

Despite the fact that the heating device was originally designed as a stove with an air heat exchanger, some craftsmen loop convection channels by connecting them to a water heating system. The resulting aquabuller, of course, has the right to exist, but the feasibility of such a solution is questionable. Firstly, the heat capacity of the air environment is 800 times less than that of water, so a furnace designed for convection will operate with reduced efficiency under liquid heat exchange conditions. Secondly, even if Breneran is taken as an aggregate long burning, then this is also irrational, since there are more suitable specialized designs of solid fuel boilers using pyrolysis. Despite this, aquabullers have found their place in the line of units, which are a modernized buleryan.

To retain heat from a potbelly stove longer, owners use various heat-storing devices that are installed on convection pipes. In addition, Buleryans often dress in brickwork, getting something like a fireplace with holes for warm air to escape on the sides. This option looks good country house. According to the owners, the symbiosis of the buller with a brick stove allows you to keep the room warm for up to 8 hours, which is quite enough for a comfortable stay in winter time.

Despite the fact that the calorific furnace was originally developed for domestic use, currently buleryan is widely used in all areas of economic activity:

• for heating dachas and country houses, including wooden ones;
• in production workshops;
• for heating utility rooms;
• in garages and workshops;
• in baths and saunas;
• to maintain the required temperature in greenhouses;
• as heating units for country cafes and restaurants;
• for heating administrative buildings in rural areas, etc.

The classic buleryan stove is not suitable for heating tents.

When installing a buleryan, be sure to take into account the power and dimensions of the heating unit, since this determines whether the device can evenly heat the entire room. It is equally important to choose the right place to install the Canadian stove, equip the chimney according to all the rules and ensure its regular maintenance.

Design features and principle of operation

When developing Brenaran, Canadian specialists used the long-known design of a long-burning convection boiler, called a calorific furnace. Thanks to the increase in the combustion door, it became possible to load not only chopped logs, but also parts of rhizomes, as well as large logs. New form the blower - in the form of a pipe embedded in the loading hatch, made it possible to abandon the two-door scheme. To regulate the amount of air required for fuel combustion, a throttle was installed inside the blower - a round rotary valve. The external throttle control lever allows, if necessary, to reduce or increase the air flow, thereby controlling the power of the buleryan.

The firebox of the heating unit is a metal cylinder, on both sides of which tubular metal heat exchangers, bent in the form of elbows, are embedded at equal intervals. Due to the fact that two-thirds of the diameter of the pipes are recessed into the body of the stove and are located in the combustion zone, the air receives up to 70% of the heat that is released when burning wood. The remaining kilocalories heat the body of the stove and are subsequently also spent on heating the room. Thanks to this distribution, the body of the buleryan usually heats up to only 60–65 °C, while the air that leaves the convection channels has a temperature of more than 100 °C. I must say what exactly high speed heating ensures the active suction of cold air masses in the lower part of the tubular heat exchangers and their release from the upper openings of the heater.

The combustion space inside the device is divided into three chambers. A metal under or removable grate is installed in the lower part of the furnace at a height of up to ¼ of the body diameter. You can do without these elements, but with them it will be easier to light the stove and remove ash. Under the arch of the firebox, at the same distance from the body as under, a perforated metal sheet is welded, which does not reach the loading hatch a quarter of the length of the buleryan. The upper chamber is designed for afterburning volatile compounds that are released when the unit operates in gas generator mode.

The combustion products are removed through a hole located in the afterburner chamber, on the side of the rear wall of the unit. A damper with a 90-degree sector cut out is mounted at the beginning of the smoke channel. In addition, around the damper (a metal plate that regulates chimney draft) there is a gap of at least 10–15% of the chimney diameter. This design makes it possible to set the correct draft and at the same time does not allow carbon monoxide to enter the room, even if it is completely blocked during intense gas formation smoke channel.

A horizontal section of the chimney, designed to reduce the temperature of combustion products, extends from the outlet opening, and then an elbow is installed, which directs the pipe vertically. Here, “real” units manufactured by Bulerjan are equipped with a device for pyrolysis combustion of gases, called an economizer. The chimney must be high enough to obtain high-quality draft and insulated so as not to allow the combustion products to cool too much. If this requirement is not met, as well as when using fuel with a high moisture content, the temperature in the afterburning chamber will be reduced, as a result of which the content of tar and other unsafe carbon compounds in the flue gases will increase.

Drawings and diagrams of buleryan for making it yourself

Despite the fact that manufacturers keep the exact parameters and drawings of the convection ovens they produce secret, take measurements from finished product is not difficult. Thanks to passionate people, today we have almost complete set project documentation. It must be said that when making a buleryan it is important to observe the ratio of the sizes of all parts of the unit, so you can adapt the drawings presented below as an example to your conditions.

Drawing of the buleryan door

What you need to make a Breneran type convection oven

In order to get a truly reliable and durable heating unit, it is made of thick metal. The best material considered to be heat-resistant boiler steel, which can be purchased at specialized offices. Before starting work, prepare:

• rolled steel sheets with a thickness of at least 5 mm, size 1000x2000 mm;
• sheet of heat-resistant steel 6 mm thick, 400 mm wide and 700 mm long;
• a small piece of steel sheet 3–4 mm thick for making valves;
• steel pipe Ø110 mm - 4 meters;
• round thick-walled pipe Ø57 mm or profile metal pipe with a thickness of 4 mm and dimensions of at least 60x60 mm - more than 10 m;
• steel tube Ø15 mm - 40 cm;
• rings for the door, cut from a pipe Ø350 mm;
• powerful hinges for fastening the loading hatch;
• handle with a locking mechanism for the door;
• pieces of steel rod Ø8 mm for the manufacture of air and smoke damper levers;
• asbestos cord.

Often, zealous owners use cylinders or metal barrels to make furnace parts, but the materials from which they are made are not always suitable for the needs that they are going to satisfy with the help of such a homemade product.

Tools and devices that will be needed in the process of making a Canadian stove:

• powerful pipe bender;
• welding machine;
• angle grinder (grinder);
• cutting and cleaning discs;
• electric drill and set of drills for working on metal;
• hammer;
• roulette.

If possible, it is better to cut the metal sheet with a gas cutter or other special equipment. Firstly, this will save more than one cutting disc for an angle grinder, and secondly, after a gas cutter, round body parts will require only a little grinding of the edges. If you use an angle grinder, you will need to put a lot of effort into turning the polygons cut out with it into circles.

Instructions for making a stove

When starting to build a calorific furnace, it is better to carry out the work step by step. This way, you will be able to avoid mistakes and miscalculations that may lead to the dismantling of welded parts and the need to remake ready-made components. Our instructions are written step by step and take into account the experience of manufacturing the unit by more than one craftsman, therefore, using the presented algorithm, you will be able to do the work not only quickly, but also efficiently.

1. The pipe intended for the manufacture of convection heat exchangers is cut into identical pieces 120–140 cm long (at least eight sections should be obtained), which are bent at an angle of 75–80 degrees using a pipe bending device. In this case, the radius of curvature should be 22–23 cm, and the discrepancy in the geometry of the parts should not exceed several millimeters.
2. WITH inside In the two resulting blanks, slots are made into which sections of 20-centimeter pipes Ø15 mm are installed at a slight angle to the heat exchangers so that at least 15 cm remains outside. After this, all the cracks are carefully sealed by welding. During installation, this pair of pipes is installed at the door, since they will provide air injection into the combustion zone.
3. The pipes are laid one on top of the other, alternately oriented in opposite directions. To make the structure stable, slats are used, the thickness of which is equal to the diameter of the pipes.

   In some cases, an assembly frame is mounted and each heat exchanger is welded. It is important that the protruding parts of the pipes are the same length. The result should be a furnace core, which consists of at least 4 heat exchangers installed on each side in checkerboard pattern. In this case, the depth of the buleryan will be about 50 cm.

4. The parts of the furnace frame are welded together, after which the lower partition of the firebox is cut out from a steel sheet with a thickness of at least 5 mm. In order to reduce the time for fitting a metal part, a template is made from thick cardboard, and then its contours are transferred to rolled metal.
5. The partition is installed in place, after which the places where it adjoins the convection pipes are welded with a continuous seam.
6. The gaps between the heat exchangers are also covered with steel strips, with each panel pre-fitted using a separate template.
7. The joints between the furnace body and the pipes are welded with a continuous seam, after which the slag is removed and the quality of the weld is checked.
8. Two similar shaped elements are cut out of a steel sheet, which will form the front and back walls of the furnace. To avoid time-consuming adjustments, during the work process they use the same method of obtaining the exact configuration of parts using cardboard templates.
9. A Ø110 mm hole is cut out in the rear wall for installing a chimney, while in the front wall there is an opening Ø350 mm for installing a loading door.
10. A T-shaped structure is made from two sections of 110 mm pipe, designed to remove combustion products and collect condensate. Its lower part is covered with a round steel flange, which is secured using M8 threaded studs welded to the pipe. To remove condensate, a threaded pipe Ø15 mm is cut into the flange, onto which a 1/2˝ ball valve is installed.
11. A round valve with a diameter of 90–95 mm is made from a steel plate 4 mm thick, in which a rectangular sector is cut out. By bending a piece of Ø8 mm rod at an angle of 90°, a gate axis with a rotary lever is formed.
12. Using an electric drill with a Ø8.5 mm drill, install the rod in the center of the smoke channel, after which the damper itself is welded to it. After this, the T-shaped chimney assembly is mounted by welding on the rear wall of the stove.
13. A blower is made in a similar way. To do this, take a 100 mm piece of pipe Ø60 mm into which a throttle is installed. Unlike a damper, the air damper must exactly match the internal size of the channel and close it without gaps. To fix the throttle in the desired position, it is equipped with a spring mechanism.
14. A 40 mm wide ring cut from a 350 mm steel pipe is welded into the window of the front panel of the case.
15. A front door with a diameter of 370 mm is cut out of sheet metal. In the lower third of the part, an opening is made into which the blower is welded.
16. In order to ensure a tight fit of the door to the combustion window, a gas seal is installed on it. This unit is made from two steel strips 4 mm wide or pipe sections Ø350 mm, for which they are cut crosswise. After this, a part 50 mm long is cut from the circumference of one part, and this section is welded to the other. One of the rings should fit freely into the loading opening, while the other should be installed on top of it with a small gap. The parts are welded to the door, ensuring precise centering of all elements. After this, the gap between the rings is filled with asbestos cord packing - it will serve as a sealing element of the structure.
17. To prevent the door from heating up during operation of the furnace, a reflective screen made of sheet metal is mounted on the side of the firebox. In this case, it is important to ensure an air gap of at least 3 mm and free access of air from the blower to the combustion zone.
18. Hinges and a locking mechanism are welded to the loading hatch. By the way, a tight door seal can be achieved by installing an eccentric bolt, the design of which is illustrated below.
19. The front wall of the buleryan is welded in the same way as the rear panel, after which a hatch and a fixing device bracket are mounted on it.
20. To supply additional air to the afterburning zone, the front wall of the furnace body is equipped with an injection device. Making this unit is not difficult, and its design can be seen in the bottom photo.
21. Legs and stands are welded to the bottom of the potbelly stove in the front and rear parts so that the distance from the edge of the heat exchangers to the floor is at least 200 mm.
22. Buleryan is connected to the chimney, after which the heating unit is ignited and tested.

It is important to maintain precision and accuracy in your work, so it is better to take several measurements each time, work slowly, clean welds and metal edges with a grinding wheel, etc. Don’t forget about safety precautions. It's best to work on fresh air or in a well-ventilated area, be sure to use protective clothing, safety glasses and gloves.

After testing and installing the unit on permanent place its body is painted with special heat-resistant paint. This will add aesthetics to the potbelly stove and protect the metal from corrosion.

Refinement and modernization of the heating device

The design of the Canadian stove is designed to heat one room, since walls and partitions create a barrier to heated air flows. The installation of a metal unit in residential premises greatly affects the aesthetic value of the interior, and the need to throw firewood in the middle of the night so as not to freeze in the morning can hardly be called comfortable operation. Numerous owners of calorific furnaces are trying to solve these and other disadvantages of buleryan. And, I must say, not without success.

Distributing heat throughout the rooms of the house

In order to heat the whole house with buleryan, and not just one room, corrugated pipes are connected to the heat exchangers of the unit, which are led through the wall of the room, and the opening is ennobled with decorative grille. Certainly, ideal option This is the case when this type of heating is considered at the design stage of the building. Then special channels are provided in the walls of all rooms to supply warm air. Nevertheless, even in a house built a long time ago, such a scheme can be implemented if you install a calorific furnace in the basement and run air ducts through the floor of each room on the floor. This fulfills the requirement for heat supply at the lower level and ensures ease of maintenance of the unit.

Air heating of every room in the building will require a slight improvement in the design of the buller. First of all, this concerns the air supply - natural inflow will not be enough, therefore, on the bottom side of the unit, collectors are installed on each row of heat exchangers, which will ensure the distribution of air coming from duct fans. The same collectors are installed at the outlet of each group of air ducts. They will mix air masses coming from parts of the unit with different temperatures. Insulated corrugated pipes are connected to the output manifold, through which heat will be distributed to each room. Since the air temperature at the outlet of the heater reaches 120 °C, when laying pipes through ceilings and partitions, the conditions provided for the installation of chimneys must be observed.

Improving the appearance of the unit using brick or stone masonry

If you cover the Canadian unit with brick, you can simultaneously solve several problems:

• increase the aesthetic value of the stove in the interior;
• ensure safety during operation of the unit;
• increase the thermal capacity of the structure.

A buleryan stylized as a fireplace or Russian stove looks especially advantageous, and if in addition to this the front door is equipped with tempered heat-resistant glass, then such a unit can create a unique atmosphere of comfort and homely warmth, while also performing the main function of heating square meters.

If you decide to decorate the Buleryan yourself using bricks, for example, for a bath room, then keep in mind that if the height of the loading hatch is less than 40 cm from the floor, it will be inconvenient to heat the stove, and in addition, the design of the structure will suffer. The masonry should be as close as possible to the furnace body, and the gaps between the brick and the furnace must be filled with broken bricks, which are laid on the mortar. Remember - the masonry will act as a heat accumulator, so how long the stove will remain warm depends on its solidity. We remind you that during operation you must ensure that the inlet and outlet openings of the heat exchangers are outside the “fireplace” and that no construction waste gets into the pipes. It is best to cover the heat exchange channels with a rag at this time.

Converting a potbelly stove for liquid fuel

Despite the fact that the Breneran was originally designed as a wood-burning stove, it can be converted to run on diesel fuel or on cheaper fuel - waste motor oil. Of course, this heating method is not suitable for a living space, but it is suitable for long-term heating of a garage or utility room.

To transfer Buleryan for testing you will need:

• place an oil container on a slight elevation;
• extend the liquid fuel supply hose to the unit;
• cut a hole in the combustion door for the tube to which the fuel supply control valve is connected.

When using used oil, it is important to ensure good traction and correctly regulate the fuel supply. Sometimes, instead of a homemade dropper, a factory burner specially designed for this type of fuel is installed on the hatch. Unlike a home-made device, an industrial nozzle ensures more complete combustion of waste.

Installation of the water circuit

As noted earlier, inquisitive minds have more than once modified the classic Buleryan to work in a liquid heating system. At the early stages, DIYers tried to loop all the heat exchangers into one circuit. The result was a coil, through which water circulated thanks to the use centrifugal pump. Later, a scheme was proposed similar to the previously described design for upgrading the distribution unit air flow throughout all rooms in the house. The upper and lower sections of the heat exchangers were welded into cylindrical collectors, connecting the lower element to the return line, and the upper element to the supply pipeline. Thus, it became possible to install the unit not only in heating systems with forced supply of coolant, but also when using natural circulation of liquid. By the way, the disadvantage of buleryan, associated with the impossibility of working on high-temperature fuel such as coal, is eliminated by itself - thanks to its high heat capacity, water does an excellent job of cooling the walls of the unit.

As for making buleryan “from scratch,” the process is even simpler. Instead of making a frame from heat exchanger pipes, the furnace body is made entirely of sheet steel, resulting in a unit of the correct cylindrical shape. On top, the structure is wrapped in another cylinder, which serves as a water jacket. Since the lower part of the potbelly stove heats up weakly, the stove must be moved downwards relative to the casing. In order to make the most of all the heat, some craftsmen manage to install a water circuit at the exit of the smoke channel. In the photographs you can see all the nuances of the described metamorphoses.

If we take into account that pyrolysis combustion of exhaust gases should occur in the vertical channel at the outlet of the buleryan, cooling this section of the chimney contradicts the very principle of operation of the stove, and therefore is hardly correct.

Correct operation and maintenance of the oven

To quickly light the stove, use finely chopped dry firewood, under which paper or cardboard is placed. After the wood is ignited, the main portion of fuel is added to the buleryan. It must be said that thick logs up to 40 cm long are ideal for this unit - they will give off heat for several hours. You should not warm up the stove for more than 20–30 minutes with the damper fully open - the breneran is designed to smolder fuel, so a large fire will simply carry the lion's share of the thermal energy into the chimney. In addition, a red-hot stove may warp or one of the welds.

After the wood has completely ignited, the stove is switched to gasification mode, for which the gate and throttle are closed. The operation of the unit in gas generator mode is indicated by a small flame under the roof of the fuel chamber, which accompanies the combustion process of the released gases.

The efficiency of the unit depends on how dry the firewood is. Therefore, it is recommended to dry the fuel before loading. By the way, for this you can use the heat of the melted stove itself if you place another armful of firewood on the heat exchange pipes.

Smoke filling the room when a potbelly stove is lit indicates one of the following errors:

• insufficient chimney height. Excellent traction characteristics will be provided by a pipe with a height of at least 5 m, and its upper cut must be located above the roof;
• the gate valve is closed;
• deposits of condensate and soot narrowed the smoke channel so much that normal removal of combustion products became impossible. They need to be removed.

Contamination of the furnace during operation is manifested not only in deterioration of draft. Deposits on the gate prevent its normal closure, and a layer of soot on the internal surfaces of the heating unit significantly impairs heat transfer.

In order to clean buleryan, several methods are used, one of which involves burning out resins and soot. Experts do not recommend burning the unit, since this involves heating the stove and chimney to too high a temperature. In addition, the process is often accompanied by uncontrolled ignition and the release of burning residues onto the roof.

It is best to clean the buller and chimney using ancient methods using metal brushes and scrapers. Dirt and oily deposits are removed from the chimney by first removing the flange at its bottom. Inner surface The combustion chamber can be brought into proper shape using a small paint spatula or chisel.

Remember that if regular use of the buleryan requires cleaning the chimney more than twice a year, it means that the optimal operating mode of the stove has not been achieved. To ensure efficient operation of the unit, experiment with the position of the dampers, determining the position in which the fuel will burn completely.

Design and operating features of the heating system (video)

Difficulties in the manufacture of the Buleryan stove may arise not because of the structural complexity of the unit, but due to the lack of necessary skills when working with welding and plumbing equipment. Nevertheless, you should not despair prematurely - you can do some of the work yourself, and entrust the most complex and critical stages to professionals. Even despite the additional costs, the cost of a home-made air heater can be reduced by two or more times compared to factory products.

Making a stove with your own hands for heating small utility rooms, a garage and other needs is quite possible. Having welding skills, a little metal and desire, you can easily make a buleryan yourself. In this article the site offers practical advice and installation instructions.

The average efficiency of a buleryan is about 80% (indicators of a conventional potbelly stove are 10-15%), with minimum costs of fuel it will easily heat the average garage. But the popularity and efficiency of this heating device is clearly reflected in its price, which is on average about 15 thousand rubles. If desired, you can make such a stove yourself if you have the skills to work with welding and necessary tool.

Materials and tools needed for work

Tools:

1. Angle grinder.
2. Drill.
3. A variety of available tools (pliers, hammer, file, etc.).

Materials you will need:

1. Square pipe 50x50x4.0 - 27 m.
2. Profile pipe 30x20x2.0 - 0.76 m.
3. Profile pipe 40x25x2.0 - 2 m.
4. Tube ∅ 15 mm - 60 cm.
5. Sheet metal 5 mm - 3 m 2.
6. Sheet metal 100 mm - 0.1 m 2.
7. Pipe ∅ 95x5.0 - 1 m.
8. Wire ∅ 10mm - 0.5 m.
9. Garage hinges - 2 pcs.

Frame making

We divide the profile pipe into 1500 mm sections, from which we make the following parts using a grinder and a welding machine:

You will need exactly 18 such elements. Four of them should be slightly different: you need to remove one nozzle from each, which is a tube with a diameter of 15 mm and a length of about 100 mm.

1 - air movement; 2 — tube ∅ 15 mm

We stack the resulting blanks on top of each other so that they form a frame in the shape of a regular hexagon, lightly securing them with welding.

Attention! Parts with nozzles should be at the bottom, two on each side. They are the ones who will supply air to the gas afterburning chamber.

We carefully boil the resulting frame with an inverter and clean the welding seams.

Manufacturing of gas afterburning chamber

We cut out two blanks from 5 mm sheet steel.

And we weld them inside the resulting contour, thereby forming an afterburning chamber. Do not forget that the tubes with nozzles should remain in front of the partition, just in the path of gas movement.

Sheathing the frame with iron

From sheet metal (3 mm) we cut steel strips of size 400x50 (18 pcs.) and 350x50 (36 pcs.). We use them to scald the sides of our buleryan. Monitor the quality of work - any gap left is a “loophole” for smoke. The result should be a kind of hexagonal pipe, 900 mm long and divided by a fire arrester into two chambers in a ratio of 1:3.

Let's start making the front and back walls of our stove from the same sheet metal as the strips for covering the frame.

Using a grinder, we cut out two regular hexagons with a side of 40 cm. In the part that will serve as the back wall, at the top of one of the corners we will have a hole for a chimney ∅ 85 mm, which after fitting should be completely located in a smaller chamber - in afterburning chamber.

In the front plate we make a hole in the center of the lower compartment in the shape of a square measuring 250x250 mm. It is through it that firewood will be supplied to the firebox.

When the technical holes are cut, we weld both workpieces into their jobs.

Important! Do not forget to grind all welding seams while working with an angle grinder. Firstly, in the future it will be problematic to grind in many places, and secondly, after cleaning the seam, its quality is especially clearly visible.

Making a chimney

As a chimney we will use a thick-walled pipe (∅ 95 mm) 50 cm long. It is also necessary to make a valve for the chimney, with which you can control the speed of movement of the exhaust gases. To do this, we cut out a circle from sheet metal corresponding to the internal diameter of the chimney pipe (∅ 85 mm) according to the diagram. We will also need ∅ 10 mm wire.

Before installing the chimney to the stove, at a distance of 70-100 mm from the beginning of the pipe, we drill a through hole with a diameter of 1 cm in its walls. We thread the wire we have there, pre-bent with the letter “G”. And we grab the valve blade itself right in the chimney.

Important! During operation, be careful not to accidentally weld it to the pipe wall, and also do not leave scale inside.

After installing the valve, we carefully weld the chimney vent to the rear wall of the buleryan, along the edge of the previously made hole.

Making a firebox hatch

Let's move on to installing the firebox door. We “fit” the combustion hole on the front cover around the perimeter with a 40x25 mm profiled pipe.

From sheet iron 10 mm thick we cut out a square with sides of 330 mm (this will be the front side of the door). We retreat 42 mm from the edge of the plate, draw a second, slightly smaller square with sides of 246 mm on it and also weld it with a 40x25 profiled pipe. We weld the resulting frame with a steel lid 5 mm thick. The door is ready.

Blower or organization of air supply to the firebox

We proceed to the installation of the blower by analogy with the design of the chimney, with the only difference that the sliding petal here will be in the form of a solid round piece, without a cut-out quarter, and the length of the ∅ 95 pipe is only 140 mm.

In the cover we have already made, we make a through hole with a diameter of 95 mm and weld the blower there. With its help, it is convenient to regulate the air supply to the furnace, and therefore maintain the combustion intensity.

Installation of awnings on the firebox door

Before welding the awnings to the door, it must be positioned and immobilized by welding in 2-3 places. Then, across its entire area at a distance of 40 mm from the ends, we weld two profile pipes 30x20x2 380 mm long so that on the side of the canopies they protrude beyond the perimeter of the hatch by 50 mm. It is to them that we will weld the garage hinges.

Advice: if the hinged hinges do not reach the front plate of the stove, you can also weld a couple of pieces of profile pipe to it.

Lock installation

To make a constipation we need lathe, or, in the absence of one, you can order a lock for the stove and then weld it to the firebox hatch. Only after the lock has been welded can you cut off the welding points that immobilize the door and finally polish everything with a grinder welding seams finished oven.

If desired, 4 support posts are mounted to the stove from a profiled pipe or metal corner for better stability.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the technology for making buleryan. Having patience, desire and the necessary tools, anyone with minimal experience working with metal can make a stove.

Video on the topic

The Bulerjan stove has many advantages: it quickly heats the room, in smoldering mode large wood can burn for up to 6-8 hours, it is safe and has an efficiency of about 80% (these are branded units). Its design is so well thought out that it is difficult to find a negative review from the owner.

The disadvantages include:

• Fuel requirements. Only firewood or the results of its processing are used: firewood, chips, paper, cardboard, pellets and (briquettes can also be made from peat). With all this, the firewood must be dry - no more than 15% humidity.
• Accumulation of caustic condensate. It is difficult to dispose of (you cannot pour it near your home - it is poisonous).
• Active formation of soot in the chimney, which is why it needs to be cleaned periodically. But soot is formed from damp firewood. If you use dry ones, the problem will not be so acute.

These are all disadvantages. If we talk about independent production, from this point of view the minus is the complex design: the presence large quantity welds and high requirements for their quality. Therefore, if you don’t have enough experience in welding, think carefully, because ready-made “Buleryans” are not that expensive. If you have to buy pipes, pay to have them bent to the desired shape, buy metal (and a thickness of 4 mm is required), then the savings will be very small. It's up to you to decide.

The design of the Buleryan stove is difficult to make with your own hands

If you still decide to make it yourself, so that you understand what and why. Let's figure out how it works and how it is structured.

Structure of the Buleryan furnace and principles of operation

The oven has original design, in which everything is subordinated to the main task: quickly heating the air in the room, and then maintaining the temperature.

The furnace body consists of parabola-shaped pipes, between which strips of metal are welded. The pipes are mostly located inside the firebox, protruding only 1/3 of their diameter. Such a system is a highly efficient heat exchanger in which air acts as a coolant. As soon as the furnace is ignited, air is sucked into the lower ends of the pipes, which takes away most of the thermal energy from the heated metal. This flow is very intense. During active combustion, 4-6 cubic meters of air pass through six pipes per minute, and its outlet temperature exceeds 120 o C (up to 150 o C).

Active combustion is not the main operating mode of this stove. Most of the time the fuel is smoldering. Then the air in the pipes is no longer scalding “only” 60-70 o C, and the body temperature is around 50 o C (of course, not immediately after the “buildup”).

The firebox inside is divided into three parts: the bottom ¼ part is separated by a grate, and the top ¼ is also allocated for the afterburner. The grate is either a standard cast iron grate or a steel grate made of steel at least 4 mm thick. The upper partition does not reach the door by about a quarter of its length. And this is not a solid sheet, but with holes. Through these holes, air from the furnace enters the fenced-off afterburning zone to maintain combustion of gases. Hole area is about 7% of total area partitions.

At the top of the rear wall there is an outlet for exhaust gases. A damper/damper is installed here, which has a smaller diameter (the gap is approximately 10-15% of the chimney diameter). Additionally, a 90° sector is cut out in the damper. This device allows you to regulate the draft, but the existing gaps will not allow carbon monoxide to enter the room at any position of the gate. This will not happen even with the door open. Then, however, the room will freeze completely, but safety comes first.

Further, in “Buleryany”, from the pipe there is not a chimney directed upward, but a horizontal section of the pipe, in which the unburned pyrolysis gases cool down a little (this is intentional). Then the chimney bends upward. Here the “branded” Bulerjan has an economizer. This is a heavily insulated section of the pipe in which pyrolysis gases from the furnace are periodically burned. ABOUT .

Factory-made Buleryan with economizer

Here's how it works. Partially cooled gases pass into the insulated pipe section. A certain amount of thermal energy has already accumulated here. The gases heat up again and flare up. Due to the increase in temperature, they expand, and since there is nowhere for them to go in the pipe, they clog the chimney. A gas plug forms (this phenomenon is known to stove makers and owners of their unsuccessful creations). The gases burn out and cool, the plug dissolves. For some time, the furnace operates as usual until the required amount of heat accumulates in the economizer. This process is spontaneous. The frequency and duration depend on the characteristics of the firewood and the position of the dampers.

To regulate the intensity of fuel combustion, there is a throttle in the stove door that blocks the air flow. The door itself is usually round and large in size so that large logs can be placed - these are the most best option for smoldering mode. But this is not the most important thing. It is important to ensure a tight fit of the door: combustion products should not leak through it. This is also the difficulty of making pyrolysis ovens with your own hands.

We seem to have figured out the design and principle of operation. Now you can begin assembling spare parts and components.

What is needed for "Buleryan"

To make a stove you need:

• Sections of thick-walled pipes with a diameter of at least 60 mm. You should not take a smaller diameter: the air flow through them will be insufficient.
• Sheet of metal with a thickness of 4 mm.
• A small piece of thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 350 mm (rings are cut from it to make a door) or a sheet of metal for cutting strips that then need to be bent.
• A piece of pipe with a diameter of 100-120 mm is for the chimney and a small piece for making the throttle body on the door.
• Hinges for fastening the door.
• Handle-lock for the door, handle-lever for the throttle and damper.
• Asbestos cord for sealing.

Equipment includes a pipe bender and a welding machine with consumables(electrodes).

The most normal drawing that we could find is presented below. But it shows dimensions for 50 mm pipes. This is not the best option (it is better if the pipe diameter is 60 mm). But it can be taken as a basis.

Drawing of “Buleryan” (click to enlarge picture)

The exact drawings of “branded” stoves are a trade secret. And finding them in the public domain is unrealistic. But the drawing of “Buleryan” that is given is already a good basis.

Sequence of actions

Pipe sections are bent to the required diameter. The size of the firebox, and therefore the burning time, depends on the number of pieces, but there is no point in making a very “multi-tube” battery: its efficiency will be deplorable. Therefore, as in the original, we take 6-8 pieces.

They need to be captured somehow. Some people use safety auxiliary strips for this, while others make a frame into which they insert blanks and then weld them.

Since grates will still need to be welded to the assembled pipes, you can immediately weld the corners in these places, which will serve as the frame. Then lay the grate and partition on them.

After the skeleton is assembled, mark the strips of metal and weld them so that only a third of the pipe remains on top.

Now make/buy grate bars. If you are going to make the grate bars yourself, it would be better not from reinforcement, but from strips of metal. Ideally, they should have a triangular cross-section (top down) or trapezoidal. It is better not to fasten the grate tightly - this part most often requires replacement. Therefore, it is advisable to weld it inside metal corner, on which you can lay them.

Make an upper partition from a sheet of metal. The sidewalls have a complex configuration: you have to cut out semicircles for the pipes. It’s easier to first cut out the patterns from cardboard, fit them, and then transfer the shape to the metal. The length of the partition does not reach the door by ¼. Cut holes in the plate of at least 7% of the total area. Weld it in place. Please note that the seams must be sealed.

Cut out the back wall. It's also easier to transfer it onto the cardboard first. Make a hole for the chimney pipe. The chimney begins in the upper fenced off part, separated by a partition. Don't miss. Weld the back wall (the seam is sealed).

Now you can start making the front wall and door. This is one of the most difficult parts to manufacture. We cut out the front wall in the same way as the back one. Now we make a hole for the door. Here it should be located closer to the grate, but above it. The diameter of the door, in principle, should be as large as possible to accommodate large logs. To the edge of the hole, weld a strip of metal about 10 mm thick perpendicular to the area of ​​the front wall. This will be a side to ensure a tight fit of the door.

The front wall and door are one of the most complex components (click for pictures)

Now let's make the door. Its diameter is slightly larger than the cut hole. Along the edge of the disk and slightly retreating from it, we weld two strips of metal (or rings from a pipe of suitable diameter) approximately 15 mm high. Their location should be such that the welded strip on the front wall passes between the two strips on the door. We lay an asbestos sealing cord in the gap between the strips.

Now let's start making the throttle. The diameter of the throttle body is 22-25 mm. Its length is about 100 mm. Find a piece of pipe of suitable size. In it, at a distance of 4-5 cm from the edge, we make two holes located radially. We insert a metal rod into these holes and bend it on one side - this will be the throttle handle. We cut out a circle of metal, slightly smaller in diameter than the body pipe. This is a damper. We insert the damper into the body and weld it to the rod. The result is an adjustable damper.

The throttle/blower is attached to the door in the upper part (click to enlarge the picture)

We attach the finished throttle to the door. We make a hole in its upper part and weld it. Now all that remains is to install the hinges and the lock. Having hung the finished door, we check the quality of all seams.

In the same way as a slide damper, we make a damper for the chimney. The only difference is that they use different

The chimney resembles the letter “T”; a damper is installed in the part adjacent to the body

diameters and it is necessary to cut a 90° sector from the damper. A horizontal section of chimney pipe up to one meter long emerges from the stove. A second section is welded to it so that the structure resembles the letter “T”. Insert the damper into the part adjacent to the body. The sequence is similar to making a throttle valve: two radial holes in the body, a metal rod through them, weld the valve to the rod, bend one part of the wire to make a handle.

Now all that remains is to weld the stand: for effective operation, the stove must be at a height of at least 25-30 cm from the floor, although many people have it directly on the pipes. But in this case, a non-combustible base-pedestal made of brick is required. Here you can choose for yourself: either make a stand from pipes, or build a brick block (according to the company’s recommendation - in four rows of bricks laid flat on clay mortar).

The design of the stove and the sequence of actions when making Buleryan with your own hands is illustrated in the video below.

This option is a great way. It will also come in handy in warehouses or other production premises: quickly, within just a few minutes, it reaches the set mode (20-30 minutes) and heats up a room of 20 square meters in 40-50 minutes.

Simple option

This design is only similar to the original. The location of the cameras and the presence of pipes were taken from there. In this version, a thick-walled barrel is used as a body. Curved pipes are welded onto the body on top. In this option, it is important to perfectly fit the bend to the existing barrel.

You can make something similar to “Buleryan” from a barrel. All that remains is to weld the pipes and install the door

The contact surface will already be small, and if the pipes do not fit tightly, then there will be no point in them at all. Then the whole process is similar:

• Divide the inside of the barrel into three zones by installing grates and a partition.
• You make the front wall, the door, attach the throttle to it, weld all the hinges and hang the door. Weld it in place.
• Now in the back wall (which was the bottom), cut a hole for the chimney, weld the chimney pipe, weld the “T”-shaped chimney. You manufacture and install the damper, and assemble the entire structure.

This option is much simpler. But in terms of performance, it will be slightly better than a potbelly stove and will warm up the room much more slowly than the first option. Instead, the temperature of the case will be much higher and the heat will emanate from it to a much greater extent, and most of the heat will be transferred by hard radiation from the case, rather than through heated air. The high efficiency of Buleryanov is achieved thanks to “recessed” pipes and an “economizer”. The pipes go on top and there is no afterburning device. That's less efficiency. But it’s twice as easy to manufacture.

Outdated potbelly stoves were replaced by more modern long-burning boilers. Such air heating stoves can maintain heat for 8-10 hours with a single addition of fuel. The market is replete with various offers heating devices operating on solid fuel. But all these boilers came from one ancestor - the Buleryan stove, which is easy to make yourself.

The appearance of the Bulerjan stove is similar to a potbelly stove, but with unusual design. At the same time, the efficiency of this boiler is significantly higher, and the scope of application is much wider. Factory-made air heating devices are in great demand, but it is quite possible to make Buleryan with your own hands and use it to heat a workshop, garage, utility room and even a small dacha.

How does a Buleryan type boiler work?

Manufacturing heating device It will be much simpler if you understand how it works. You can simply copy everything, but it’s not a fact that everything will work correctly. At first glance, Buleryan looks like metal barrel, lying on its side and entwined with pipes.

The design is not particularly elegant, but due to its efficiency, the device is very popular in places where the climate is harsh. The operating principle of the unit is based on convection and dosed air supply into the combustion chamber.

Convection is the transfer of heat using a moving medium; in Buleryan this is air currents.

Because cold air is heavier than warm air, it is located closer to the floor. The lower ends of the pipes that wrap around the Buleryan firebox go to the same place. As soon as the combustion chamber heats up, cold air begins to flow into the pipes, and as it warms up, it enters the room through the upper ones. Thanks to the phenomenon of air circulation, the unit can quickly heat the room.

As a rule, the unit is calculated based on the volume of the room that it will need to heat. If you use the device more than the required power, then the room will be hot as hell, but if there is not enough power, heating the room will take a very long time and the device may eventually simply fail.

The second positive feature of the boiler of this type is a long burning. Quick heating is pretty good, but being on duty at the stove while adding wood is not much different from a potbelly stove. The long-term preservation of heat in the room by the unit is the merit of another physical law.

Without air supply, the flame will not burn. Because of this, air enters the combustion chamber through the damper (channels, jets) in the volume that is needed for smoldering wood, and not for it to burn.

Depending on the type of wood, the fuel in the combustion chamber can smolder for up to 10 hours. And throughout this period the room will remain warm. Due to constant convection currents, the room is heated within 15 minutes. The efficiency of the unit can be estimated at 75%. If we take a standard brick oven for comparison, its efficiency is less than 50%.

Air heating furnace design

With the essence of quickly heating the room and maintaining comfortable temperature conditions we figured it out. It is necessary to understand how this is implemented, that is, what parts the design of the unit consists of.

The Buleryan heating device includes the following elements in its design:

• combustion chamber, which consists of bent tubes and metal strips;
• secondary combustion chamber;
• front wall;
• back wall;
• door for storing fuel;
• a pipe serving as a chimney;
• ash pan;
• injector;
• chimney damper;
• power regulator;
• blower, etc.

The foundation of the design of the Buleryan unit is its combustion chamber, which has a cylindrical shape. Convection pipes pass through it to heat the room. The firebox itself is divided into upper and lower parts using a grate. The purpose of the grate is to supply air to the lower layers of fuel.

A special damper built into the door is responsible for regulating the air supply to the oven. As it turns, the amount of air in the chamber increases, causing the firewood to flare up, or decreases so that the firewood begins to smolder. In some designs, manufacturers install stops that lock the damper in a certain position.

Gate valve. Some consider it part of the boiler, others - an element of the chimney. The damper is installed at the smoke outlet from the stove and goes directly into the chimney. Its task is to limit traction if necessary. In the first models, this part was closed tightly. But given the sad data about those killed from carbon monoxide, dampers are installed that cover the pipe by 75-80%. Because of this, minimal traction is maintained.

The Buleryan stove has huge amount positive qualities: safety, quick heating of the room; if you set the smoldering mode, large firewood can burn for up to 8 hours. This is one of the most efficient boilers with an efficiency of 80%.

The disadvantages are the accumulation of caustic condensate, the disposal of which is quite difficult, and quite strong soot deposition in the chimney, which is why it needs periodic cleaning.

What is needed to make a boiler?

The power of the future air-heating heating unit is directly proportional to the volume of the heated room. That is, based on these parameters, it is necessary to calculate not the square footage of the room, but its cubic capacity. It's quite simple; you need to multiply the area of ​​the room by its height. It is necessary to add 20% to the calculated result - this will be the probable heat loss.

For example, we need to heat a room whose area is 40 m2 and 3 m high. The volume of such a structure is 120 m3 plus 20%, resulting in 144 m3. Thus, we need a device capable of heating a room of 150 m3. Factory-made units in this case must have a power of 9 kW and a combustion chamber volume of 74 liters. I would like to note that units with such parameters are the most popular, looking back at them, we will make Buleryan ourselves.

Buleryan do-it-yourself drawings and most efficient scheme:

The next step is collecting the necessary raw materials. In order to make an air-heating boiler you will need:

• sheets of heat-resistant metal 4-6 mm thick;
• pipes with a diameter of at least 5-7 cm, otherwise air circulation through narrow channels will be difficult;
• a short piece of tube with a cross-section of 35 cm for the door. Can be made from a square pipe;
• tubes with a cross section of 10 cm for smoke duct and 120 cm for the throttle body;
• a pair of hinges for mounting the door;
• several metal rods with a diameter of 3-5 mm to create handles for the damper and door;
• asbestos cord to make the door airtight.

The tool will make the task easier. For work you need: grinder, drill, welding machine, measuring instruments, pipe bender. Welding machine and the trumpeter, however, not everyone has, but you can try to rent or borrow from friends.

Buleryan manufacturing process

A self-made buleryan oven is made in several stages.

1. The first step is the preparation of convection pipes. Using a pipe bender, they need to be given the desired shape. Typically, their number varies from 6 to 8 pieces. Doing more or less is irrational due to the fact that efficiency is lost. A frame is made from the resulting curved pipes (some make a special frame, some use spot welding).
2. After the pipe base has been assembled, it is necessary to measure the resulting distance between it, after which strips of the required width are cut from sheet metal. Once they are welded, 1/3 of the pipe should remain at the top.
3. Next, the grate bars are made. They are sold in a store or on the market, but you can weld them yourself from fittings or corners. Experts recommend using the factory version, since it is cast from cast iron, which significantly increases its service life, and its price, as a rule, does not exceed 800 rubles. Naturally, a cast iron grate will not last forever, taking this into account, it is recommended to weld stops for it inside the combustion chamber; in the future, this will significantly facilitate the task of replacing it.
4. After which comes the turn of the upper partition. It must be installed in the upper part of the stove to cut off open fire from the chimney. The walls of the combustion chamber have a rounded shape, which somewhat complicates the task; in order to simplify it, you first need to make a pattern from cardboard, and then, focusing on it, make a metal part. It is necessary to cut holes in the partition (they should not be less than 7% of the total area). At the time of welding it is necessary to make sure that the seams are tight.
5. From the same sheet metal it is necessary to cut a circle, which will subsequently serve as the back wall of the furnace. Here it is also recommended to use a pre-prepared pattern. It is also necessary to remember that it is necessary to make a hole for the chimney pipe (diameter 100 or 120 mm).
6. The most difficult stage is the manufacture of the front wall and door. In principle, the wall is cut according to the same principle as the back one, that is, using a template prepared in advance, the only difference is that a hole is made not for the chimney, but for the door, which is located above the grate. It is worth noting that the larger the door, the larger the firewood can be placed in the combustion chamber. Around the perimeter of this hole it is necessary to weld a metal strip (side) of approximately 1 cm, it is necessary for greater tightness.
7. The door should be slightly larger than the prepared hole. To the cut-out metal circle you need to weld two strips, whose height is approximately 15 mm (pipe rings will do). There should be a gap between them equal to the width of the side that is welded to the wall. In the resulting groove it is necessary to place a sealant, the role of which is played by an asbestos cord.
8. The next element that needs to be made is the throttle valve for the door. For this purpose, you need to use a piece of pipe whose length is 10 mm and diameter 25 mm. This will be the damper body. An indent of 3-4 cm is made from the edges, and holes are cut (bottom and top). Then you need to insert a metal rod into them, the end of which is bent on one side. He will play the handle of the axis on which the damper will be attached. After that, a circle is cut out of sheet metal, whose diameter coincides with the inner diameter of the body. After everything is assembled, it must be attached to the door.
9. A small slot must be made in the upper part of the damper so that a small amount of air constantly enters the combustion chamber. By the way, the gate valve is made in the same way. After which it is installed in place.
10. The final stage is to weld the hinges to the front wall and door and then hang the door on them. For the sake of fire safety, it is recommended to check the integrity of the seams.

After the stove is ready, you can weld corners and fittings or lay them out with bricks. If you are not satisfied with the appearance of the unit, it can be coated with heat-resistant paint.

Correct use of equipment

Non-standard installation of chimney pipes is necessary in order to protect the structure from wood accumulated during the combustion process. If this is not taken into account, the resin will flow out of the unit, and in the case of installation described above, it will remain inside the chimney and gradually burn out.

The Buleryan stove is guaranteed to become clogged with resin. Over time, layers of resin accumulate, which subsequently clog the device. This begins to be noticeable after the efficiency of its operation is noticeably reduced, the thrust becomes weaker, and the free movement of the gate is somewhat problematic. This indicates that it is necessary to start cleaning the device.

The simplest method in this matter is to heat the stove with aspen wood. Unfortunately, this method is short-lived and has little benefit. The most the best method Elimination of resin contamination is burning. To carry out this operation, Buleryan must be melted with the ash pan open, essentially calcining all the channels. As a result, all resinous deposits are burned.

Some craftsmen use oxygen for burning; in this case, the nozzle of the cylinder is brought to the ash pan. This procedure is quite dangerous, as it violates fire safety rules. Careless handling of an oxygen cylinder near an open flame may result in an explosion.

Not only firewood is suitable as fuel for this type of stove, but also wood waste such as shavings or sawdust, or special briquettes. One of the key conditions is a low level of fuel moisture. The amount of moisture is directly proportional to the formation of resin inside the stove, and the less resin is formed in it, the less often it needs to be cleaned.

When using the unit, it is necessary to set the operating mode to obtain maximum heat with less resin formation. If the optimal mode is found, then cleaning will be necessary only a couple of times during the heating season.

Manufacturing of this heating equipment like Buleryan, doing it yourself is quite a difficult task. But in the end you can get a convenient and high-performance device. According to experts, in case correct installation and compliance with the conditions of use, the service life of the unit is almost eternal.

Buleryan is not just the name of a stove, but a well-known Canadian brand. In 1993, a furnace was first invented, which was one of the best in the world in terms of efficiency and productivity. In principle, to this day the Buleryan stove has practically no competitors.

The Buleryan stove is often compared to a potbelly stove and an ordinary wood stove long burning. We can say that the device took elements from both.

The operation of the oven is based on the principle of convection. Pipes for heat exchange are connected to the volumetric secondary chamber, in which the process of burning wood occurs. The principle of their operation is very simple. Cold air enters the pipe at the base of the Buleryan stove, and then comes out already heated at the top of the structure.

The furnace body can be of two shapes. For small rooms, cylindrical Buleryan stoves are most often made. For a large heating area, the stove takes on a teardrop shape. Pipes are placed on the outside of the structure. To ensure maximum heat transfer, they are soldered into the structure and protrude by only one third.

The furnace firebox consists of three parts. A grate or fire-resistant mesh is placed at the bottom of the firebox. They can be made of cast iron or steel with a thickness of at least 4 millimeters. There is a special compartment at the top of the firebox. It is obtained thanks to a partition, for the manufacture of which a steel sheet is used. This compartment is also called the secondary chamber. In it, the combustion of gases occurs, which are released during the burning of wood. Combustion of fuel in the furnace itself is not complete. The released combustion products pass into the chimney. The length of the chimney is about 1 meter. Due to this part of the furnace, the combustion process becomes slower, and the combustion products cool down. The chimney is made curved and contains an economizer. Thanks to this device, secondary combustion of gases occurs. This stove structure increases heat transfer by 20% compared to other stoves.

The combustion process of wood is regulated using a damper. The damper is a damper near the exit from the firebox that regulates the intensity of the draft. It is attached to the pipe using a special metal rod. On the door, by changing the position of the gate, you can adjust the intensity of the oven.

The Buleryan stove is enough to heat a room of 100 m3. This will take no more than 3 hours. Large designs of the Buleryan stove are suitable even for heating large rooms, up to 400 m3. Not every oven can cope with such a task.

Keeping warm is also easy. Buleryan is an economical stove that requires adding firewood only twice a day.

Advantages and disadvantages of the Buleryan stove

The Buleryan stove was first used by foresters in the Canadian taiga. They needed to carry a compact stove with them, into which it was necessary to rarely add firewood, and also to warm up very quickly from its heat. The Buleryan stove easily coped with this task. Advantages of the Buleryan stove:

• Compactness. A stove capable of heating 100 m3 weighs only 50 kg.
• Fast heating of the room. Small room 30 m3 can be heated using a Buleryan stove in less than half an hour.
• Low energy consumption. The stove gradually burns wood, so there is no need to frequently add new combustible material to the firebox. It is enough to heat the room once to forget about adding firewood for 10-12 hours.

Despite the fact that the stove is a very well-thought-out design, there are still several disadvantages:

• Soot. Due to the fact that not all combustion products remain in the firebox, the soot goes into the chimney. Because of this, the length of the pipe relative to the furnace must rise at least 3 meters. This may also cause an unpleasant odor during heating.
• The need for constant adjustment. To prevent the temperature in the room from falling and the firewood to smolder slowly, it is necessary to constantly adjust the position of the damper. This requires skill and time.
• Dust combustion. Heat transfer in the Buleryan model occurs from the surface of the furnace. The metal becomes hot, causing the dust that settles on it to burn. Because of this, the air becomes musty and an unpleasant odor may also appear.

If we compare the advantages and disadvantages of the stove, the disadvantages of Buleryan are not significant. If you learn how to use the structure correctly and install the stove according to the recommendations, it will effectively heat any room.

Popular models of Buleryan stoves

Furnaces based on the use of air pipes are produced under two brands: Buleryan and Breneran. The first established production of stoves was organized, oddly enough, not in Canada, but in Germany. Since 1993, stoves began to be produced in Russia. It has become possible to purchase a Breneran stove since 2005. It was this year that the official manufacturer of stoves, the Russian company Laoterm, decided to rename the Buleryan stoves. This was due to an improvement in the design of the furnaces and an increase in the warranty period to 2.5 years. There are many popular ovens at the moment famous brand.

Breneran AOT-14

This model is one of the most bulky, but capable of heating a large room up to 400 m3. The Breneran AOT-14 model weighs 130 kg, respectively. Although it is worth noting that many stoves designed for smaller spaces weigh an order of magnitude more.

The furnace is made of structural steel. Burning time is up to 10 hours. The combustion chamber is designed for 100 liters of fuel. The length of the firewood should not be more than 80 centimeters. The chimney is connected to the back of the stove.

This stove is suitable for heating an entire cottage.

Aqua-Breneran

The Aqua-Breneran model is an improved version of the stove, since heating occurs by heating the circulating liquid.

The stove is suitable not only for heating private houses and garages, but is also installed in workshops and workshops. Such a stove is capable of heating a room of 600 m3. True, a complete filling of flammable materials should be carried out every 6-8 hours.

The structure consists of steel and is coated with heat-resistant paint. Unlike classic stoves, it has an additional water tank. The stove has two regulators. One is located on the door and regulates the heat intensity. The second is on the chimney pipe. This is a gasifier regulator.

Aqua-Breneran – great solution for heating the largest rooms.

Breneran AOT-08 type 005

Buleryan type stoves can be used not only for heating a home, but also for cooking. For these purposes, the company has released a line of stoves with a hob.

This is a gas generator stove, which will help out if there is no stove in the room. It is suitable for heating a room of 100 m3. At the same time, unfortunately, it is impossible to combine two functions - cooking and heating the room. In smoldering mode, Breneran AOT-08 will heat the room within half an hour. And during combustion it is worth using the hob. The hob consists of two burners. Food is prepared quite quickly on this device. For example, a 6-liter container of water will boil in 30 minutes.

Breneran-AQUATEN

The AQUATEN model is unique stove, the analogues of which cannot be found. The stove is similar in structure to other Buleryanov models, but still has important differences in its design.

The stove pipes are connected to heating radiators through which water flows. The structure of the pipes is the same as in the air versions of the Buleryan stove. Water rises through the drain to the pipes by gravity. The pressure manifold lifts the liquid up to 8 meters.

Just like other Breneran models, AQUATEN has several heat intensity regulators in the oven. The stove is made of high-strength steel, which is protected from corrosion by a layer of special paint.

In winter, if it is not possible to place solid combustible materials in the stove tank, you can use an electric heating element with a power of 1 kW for heating.

Is it possible to make a Buleryan stove yourself?

For more than 20 years, the secrets of creating Buleryan stoves have been kept secret. Manufacturers do not disclose drawings and parameters of the materials used. But experts in the stove business measured the stove long ago to make an analogue famous brand. You can purchase a Buleryan stove from other manufacturers, not only from Laotherm. True, such stoves will be much inferior in quality. You can also design a Buleryan stove yourself.

The furnace is made of pipes for convection heat exchangers and steel sheets. Making a Buleryan stove yourself follows several steps:

1. The pipe must be divided into 8 identical parts no more than 140 centimeters long. A pipe bender is needed to give the product a curved shape. The radius of curvature should not exceed 23 centimeters. All pipes must be equally curved.
2. You need to make slits in two pipes and insert a small tube 20 centimeters long into each of them. Most of the tube should be on the outside. The joint should be carefully welded. These pipes will need to be used at the oven door.
3. The pipes are placed one on top of the other, with the first pipe ends to the left, the second to the right, the third to the left, etc. A partition is made of steel and installed at the bottom of the structure, leaving the lower part of the pipes outside. The distance between the pipes is sealed using sheets of metal. The front and front are also made from this material. back wall with openings for the chimney and door, respectively.
4. The chimney must be made taking into account a device for removing condensate. You should make a gate with a small hole and a metal handle. And also a blower that will be attached to the door. All these parts can be made independently from sheet metal.

When making a stove yourself, make sure that all design parts fit perfectly together. It is necessary to first calculate the dimensions of the stove and be sure to connect it to the chimney before checking the operation.

Buleryan is a time-tested stove. At low costs The efficiency level of such a furnace is one of the highest in the world - it reaches up to 80%.