The hearth is the heart of buildings not connected to centralized networks. It generates the heat necessary for life and provides energy for cooking. The microclimate in the building and its service life directly depend on its productivity and efficiency, and these are very important factors in the operation of the unit, don’t you agree?

The article we presented describes in detail how to competently build a brick stove for your home. Schemes for the construction of a home are given, thoroughly disassembled technological nuances. We offer carefully selected, scrupulously verified, practice-proven information on selection and design brick stoves.

Beginning stove makers and country property owners who want to supervise the work of hired craftsmen will be helped by the information we offer, based on construction requirements. Photographic images and video tutorials will be an excellent help in mastering the material.

In constructive abundance brick kilns not easy to figure out. However, owners of suburban real estate who want to equip their house with a brick unit should study this difficult issue. It is better to determine in advance the optimal option for its purpose and design than to rebuild and modernize.

Brick stoves are divided into types according to the following aspects:

• Purpose.
• Type of gas movement.
• Performance.
• Frequency of combustion.
• Geometric data.

Ideally, a stove that is perfect for you personally is selected based on two or three of the most important criteria. Let’s look at what should be classified as significant aspects in your opinion, which will become the basis for choosing the optimal brick unit.

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Calculation of heat loss will make it possible to determine the productivity of the furnace, which should be slightly greater than the calculated value, but not more than 15%. If the power of the brick unit exceeds the specified limit, a different design should be selected.

To facilitate the process of choosing the most suitable brick stove for masonry in a low-rise building, nomograms have been developed. The graph presented below, which simplifies the calculations for selecting a stove, was created for rooms with one outer wall.

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Exists large number a variety of stoves that can serve both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and are selected for a specific room. the right option, which will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with mandatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.

In the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with instructions can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure yourself is quite difficult, since each stove maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which can only be acquired with work experience.

Criteria for choosing a brick kiln

If you nevertheless decide to carry out such work yourself, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the stove, but also to its heating capabilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.

When choosing a stove by size, you need to take into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning to install the stove in a particular location.

Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by their shape. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a protrusion in the form of a couch or stove, and others.

Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living quarters and the kitchen.

For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that could be used for other needs.

Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.

Table for choosing a stove depending on the area to be burned and the location of the rooms:

Room area, m²	Furnace surface, m²
	Not a corner room, inside the house	Room with one outside corner	Room with two external corners	Hallway
8	1.25	1.95	2.1	3.4
10	1.5	2.4	2.6	4.5
15	2.3	3.4	3.9	6
20	3.2	4.2	4.6	-
25	4.6	6.9	7.8	-

All these criteria must be determined in advance, and, based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or another model.

Types of brick stoves

As mentioned above, the design of stoves can be different - both very difficult to construct and quite simple. The most famous models are “Dutch”, “Swedish”, “Russian”. Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. Thus, stoves made by Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.

• There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which smoke exhaust channels, fireboxes, ash chambers and cleaning chambers pass.

• Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a water heating tank and a drying chamber.

• Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.

• There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter period. They are often equipped with a heated couch, which can serve as the basis for a bed.

You might be interested in information about what it is

Prices for finished heating stoves

heating stoves

Choosing a place to install the stove

It is also important to provide the correct location for installing the stove. The optimal place is the crossroads of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is advisable that the structure be located close to the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from the front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, then it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the entire house.

When choosing a location, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:

• The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unimpeded monitoring of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
• When constructing a stove, it is necessary to provide a separate foundation for it, not connected to the foundation of the house.
• The chimney pipe must pass between the beams of the attic floor and not bump into them when it is lifted - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being erected in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
• For fire safety purposes, there must be a heat-resistant flooring made of wood on the floor in front of the fire door. metal sheet or ceramic tiles.

Basic design of a brick kiln

To know how each of the furnace elements works and what it is intended for, you need to consider basic design heating structure:

• The fuel chamber is designed for loading and burning fuel. It is separated from the ash chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirected into the chimney pipe.
• The ash chamber provides a controlled air supply to the firebox and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, and therefore requires periodic cleaning.
• An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
• Cleaning chambers are necessary because soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. They are used to periodically clean the oven to maintain normal draft.

• The chimney ducts running inside the stove can have different configurations depending on different models. Hot gaseous combustion products, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which release heat into the room.
• The channels direct smoke and combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the stove and then exiting to the outside of the building.

One of the most important conditions efficient work the furnace is good draft, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the order scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to maintain the required height of the chimney pipe and its correct location on the roof.

You might be interested in learning why

Materials for building a stove

An important issue for the long-term operation of the furnace is the choice quality materials for its masonry, so you shouldn’t skimp on them. To build a building you will need:

• Red fire brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out extremely carefully.
• Fireclay brick is used to lay the combustion chamber in direct contact with the fire. It will require from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact quantity can be found out from the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick can withstand temperatures of 1450–1500°; it retains heat for a long time, gradually releasing it to the walls of the furnace.
• Raising the stove cannot be done without brick laying mortar, which is made on the basis of clay. Stove makers advise using the Borovichevsky mortar composition - it is quite plastic during the laying process and fireproof during operation.
• Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, ash pan and cleaning chambers, valves and grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.

• Steel wire for securing cast iron elements in masonry.
• Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.

You might be interested in learning how to make a cast iron stove out of it

Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a stove, you can consider several models that should be available for laying even for beginners.

Heating stove V. Bykov

This stove is intended for heating purposes only as it does not have a stove or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, since it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is capable of heating even three rooms.

The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, with its height without pipe being 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.

The stove is quite simple to install, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, which is why the designer himself called it a “thick warm wall.” The heat transfer from the entire building is 2400 kcal/h, but the side walls account for 920 kcal/h, and the front and rear parts only 280 kcal/h. Section smoke exhaust duct is 130 × 260 mm.

Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, with its front part opening into a third, for example, into the hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.

The entire design of this model is divided into two sections - the upper gas exhaust and the lower combustion chamber. There are two channels in the lower part - ascending and descending. They help heat the combustion part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the entire structure, preventing it from overheating.

The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are ⅔ covered by bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The duct walls not only direct the heated air in the desired direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of ​​the oven. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the release of warm air into the pipe.

For this stove model you will need the following materials:

• Red fire brick - 407 pcs.
• White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
• Fire door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
• Grate 250×252 mm - 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 piece; ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.

Prices for ready-made fireboxes for brick kilns

Firebox for brick kilns

Order of the Bykov furnace

The furnace is laid on a foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation should be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before starting masonry, it is covered with a layer of waterproofing - roofing felt.

Order	Description of work
	This diagram shows two zero rows, which are located below the finished floor level. Each row will require 22 red bricks.
	Masonry located on the same level as the finished floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is covered with heat-resistant ceramic tiles.
	1st row - the blower chamber is formed. Hewn bricks are installed at the entrance to it, which facilitates the removal of combustion waste. To lay this row you need 21 bricks.
	Row 2 - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. To lay this row you will need 20 bricks.
	Row 3 - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the door lugs is embedded in the masonry seams. For a row you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are laid near the installed door.
	4th row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks along with installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the rotary well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks.
	Row 5 - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the ash chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which combustion waste will slide into the ash-blower chamber through a grate installed on the same row. There must be a gap of 5 mm between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. You will need 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks.
	Row 6 - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the smoke exhaust well continues to be laid out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used.
	Row 7 - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of the masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. This row uses 11 whole, 2 ½ and 4 cut obliquely across the entire width of fireclay bricks.
	The 8th row is laid according to the pattern, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. It will take 15 bricks per row.
	Row 9 - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the stove is placed according to the diagram.
	Row 10 - bricks are laid according to the pattern, observing their direction. This row requires 16 bricks.
	Row 11 - the brick on the back wall of the firebox and at the entrance to the descending channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	Row 12 - the descending smoke exhaust duct and the fuel chamber are being combined. For a row you need 13 whole and 2 ½ fireclay bricks.
	The 13th row is laid according to the presented diagram, and it uses 10 whole, 2 ½ and 4 ¾ fireclay bricks.
	The 14th row is also laid according to the scheme; you will need 10 whole and 6 ¾ bricks.
	Row 15 - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾.
	Row 16 - bricks completely block the combined downward channel and the fuel chamber. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the gas-air upper part and the lower fuel part. For a row, 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	The 17th row is laid out from red brick. A hole in the ascending channel is left in it, and bricks cut diagonally are mounted along its edges. 14 whole, 6 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are used.
	Row 18 - a horizontal furnace channel is formed; it is the basis for the installation of five channels that will run vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 19 - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the structure, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower combustion part of the furnace. The bricks forming this channel must be cut diagonally from below. 11 whole and 4 ¾ bricks are used.
	Row 20 - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal draft. A row uses 7 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks.
	Row 21 - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. The bricks laid at the base of the walls separating the channels are cramped from below, as in previous cases. For a row you will need 11 whole, 5 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	The 22nd row is placed according to the pattern, observing the formation of channels. For a row you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces.
	The 23rd row is also laid according to the pattern and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 ½ and 4 ¾ bricks.
	Row 24 - on this row the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall is cut diagonally from the two upper sides. A row will require 9 whole, 3 ½ and 8 ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two.
	Row 25 - this is where the laying of the wall between the second and third vertical channels is completed. The top brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry you will need 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 5 ½ bricks.
	Row 26 - completion of the wall laying between the third and fourth vertical channels. The top brick of the wall is also trimmed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 27 - the work follows the pattern, and it requires 9 whole, 4 ¾ and 4 ½ bricks.
	Row 28 - it uses bricks made ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called the cap. For a row, 4 whole pieces are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely along the entire thickness.
	Row 29 - in it the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. To lay it you will need 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2 - ½ bricks.
	Row 30 is also laid out solid, according to the pattern, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 ¾ bricks.
	31 rows are laid out according to the pattern and 17 whole, 4 ¾ and 2 ½ bricks are prepared for it.
	Row 32 - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out; it will require 5 whole bricks.

Stove-fireplace "Swedish" A. Ryazankina

The Swedish type heating and cooking stove is quite popular due to its efficiency. Its design promotes rapid heating of rooms and allows you not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.

Appearance of the “Swedish” Ryazankin

Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of ​​the house, positioning it in such a way that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swedish designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both spacious and small buildings, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of the living rooms.

This stove model is heated with wood, has dimensions of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height excluding the pipe. In this case, it is also necessary to provide that the fireplace portal will protrude beyond the building by 130 mm. The foundation must be larger than the size of the furnace base and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Shvedka reaches 3000 kcal/hour.

To build this stove model, you will need the following materials:

• Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
• Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
• Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm - 8 pcs.
• Oven 450×360×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Two-burner cast iron stove 410×710 mm - 1 pc.
• Grate 200×300 mm – 1 pc.
• Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
• Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×920 mm – 3 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×530 mm – 2 pcs.
• Steel strip 50×5×480 mm – 2 pcs.
• A fireplace grate can be made independently from reinforcing bars.
• Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500×700 mm - 1 pc.
• Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.

Furnace laying

The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all cast iron elements of the fireplace stove, and a description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.

Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire stove first dry, that is, without mortar, adhering to the diagram and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of a stove maker.

Another trick of experienced craftsmen is to pre-fit and lay each of the rows without mortar during the work process. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or trimmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.

This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be completed much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.

When doing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only a diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the stove. It will also help - it will allow you to imagine all the channels passing inside and the design of the fireboxes.

So, the laying is done as follows:

Order - from 1st to 6th row

• The first, continuous row of the stove is laid on onlaid to ready roofing felt foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first you should mark the roofing material sheet using a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the stove base, observing the dimensions. Then, based on the diagram and observing the configuration of the brick laying, the first row is assembled dry, and then the laying is done with mortar.
• 2nd row. It contains metal elements consisting of pieces of reinforcement, onto which the fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element vm is completely leveled. The rest of the masonry is carried out according to the scheme.
• 3rd row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are installed, pre-wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with pieces of asbestos. To fix the doors in place, wire is used, which is threaded into special loops-ears of the cast-iron frame. Next, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is secured with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until final fastening, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.

• 4 row. The work proceeds according to the scheme, but the row is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be placed perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
• It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, just like all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which is wrapped or lined with asbestos to prevent premature burnout.

• 6th row. On this row, a combustion door is installed, wrapped in asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.

• 7th row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme; a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
• Rows 8 and 9 are laid out according to the diagram presented.
• 10 row. The front wall of the stove is strengthened, since a cast iron hob will be installed later in this part of the building. A steel corner is secured to the wall using two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid in place of the slab installation, and the slab itself is installed. The door of another cleaning chamber is fixed in the same row.
• Rows 11 and 12 are laid out according to the pattern without installation metal elements. On the twelfth row, the cleaning chamber door is closed.

Order - from 13 to 24 row

• From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed pattern, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
• 16th row. The construction of the walls of the chamber located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips, is completed. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks in the next row.
• Rows 17 and 18 are laid according to the pattern.
• 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are installed, which are secured in the same way as the previous ones.
• Rows 20 and 21 are placed according to the pattern.
• 22 row. Two more cleaning chamber doors are being installed.
• 23 row. The masonry proceeds according to the scheme.
• 24 row. The chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.

• 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
• 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
• From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the pattern.
• 31 row. At this stage, the third and final chimney valve is installed.
• 32-33 rows. In this area of ​​the structure there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.

When laying a pipe through the attic floor, it is necessary to isolate flammable construction materials from it. To do this, a metal box with sides with a height greater than the thickness of the ceiling by 100 ÷ 120 mm is installed around the chimney. This “difference” remains in the attic.

If the oven walls are not covered decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.

The Swedish stove can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.

Video: brick “Swedish” with a bed

And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding to build a stove yourself, without sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice ordinary brick laying with mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.

Evgeniy Afanasyeveditor-in-chief

Author of the publication 27.08.2015

None private house cannot do without a traditional heating and cooking stove made of brick. And although many homes today are equipped gas heating, most owners are in no hurry to give up a brick stove, since it provides special warmth - the warmth of a home, filling the home with comfort and a sense of calm. In addition, in regions rich in forests you can significantly save on costs. natural gas, having acquired firewood.

The desire to remodel a house, including moving a heating and cooking stove, can often come down to the nuances and subtleties of the stove business. You will learn how to build a stove with your own hands in this material.

There are many types of stoves, but not all are used in private construction.

Types of stoves for private homes:

1. Heating(fireplaces, sauna heaters);
2. Cooking(oven exclusively for cooking);
3. Universal(heating and cooking).

The latter variety is considered universal, therefore it is most common in private construction.

Furnace structure and its properties

After viewing sketches and designs of brick kilns, and choosing specific option, you should pay attention not so much to its exterior design, how much for the internal structure. The design of a heating and cooking furnace determines its performance, and ultimately its service life.

The internal design of a heating and cooking stove does not depend on the location of the device itself in the house. The kitchen stove can be located in the middle of the room, in a corner or against a wall.

Basic structural elements heating and cooking furnace:

• Shantsy (heat-air channels);
• Ash pit (or ashpit);
• Grate (for connecting the firebox with the ash pan);
• Under (slope to the grate);
• Combustion chamber;
• Burnout (smoke exhaust);
• The furnace vault (separates the combustion zone from the post-burning zone in the combustion chamber);
• Vent (hole through which heat enters the heated room);
• Exterior wall;
• Smoke circulation (Channel connecting the combustion chamber to the chimney);
• Overlap;
• Chimney;
• Indentation (the space between the chimney and the stove);
• Smoke valves;
• Heat-dissipating walls.

The heat output of a stove is determined by the amount of thermal energy released by the stove per hour and depends on the amount of fuel used. Heat capacity (the ability to retain heat from burned fuel) is measured in hours. Different ovens have different level heat capacity, which also depends on the degree of insulation of walls and ceilings, windows and doors of the house.

The location of the stove in the house affects the amount of heat. A house with a stove in the middle will be warmer.

Russian stove and its structure

A Russian brick stove is installed on a foundation, since its structure is quite massive. In its design, the Russian stove includes a podpechok, used to store fuel, which dries in it and easily flares up when the stove is lit. The bakehouse is closed with a vault-trough, onto which a bedding in a clay solution is poured. The bottom of the cooking chamber is installed on top of the bedding.

The Russian stove has a special design that differs significantly from the traditional heating and cooking stove in terms of heat transfer coefficient and other parameters. During heating, even for a short period, a Russian stove accumulates heat and is capable of releasing it for 24 hours.

To ensure that the Russian stove does not consume excessive amounts of fuel, does not smoke and does not cool down in a matter of hours, when installing it, it is important to observe precision technology masonry and dimensions that the diagram includes. Bricks forming internal structure ovens are trimmed and polished so that the walls inside the heil are even and smooth.

Also in its design, the Russian stove includes a combustion chamber, which is its heart. The firebox is divided into a cooking chamber or bakery and a firebox (furnace). The floor of the furnace has an inclined design, which must be made exactly according to the drawing when constructing a Russian stove.

The crucible is the main secret that Russian cuisine hides. Some dishes need to simmer in the cooking chamber for a long time after cooking. Achieve such an effect or create similar conditions for preparing Russian cuisine using the usual hob or an electric oven is not possible.

The main secret that distinguishes the Russian stove from the traditional one is the smoke channel of the simplest design, which is superior in efficiency to the smoke channel devices of other stoves.

Making a Russian stove with your own hands (video)

Design selection

The choice of furnace type depends on its operating conditions:

1. Heating and cooking stove. If you plan to use the stove intensively in your home, it is better to choose a heating and cooking stove with a massive device and regular heating. In the construction of such a furnace, its structure, consisting of many cold bricks, is first heated, then heat transfer begins.
2. Heating stove. For a house in the mountains or a summer cottage where permanent residence is not planned, a fireplace will be enough. Although it has a small heat capacity (2 - 3 hours), it is able to warm up a room much faster than a massive stove. This design will allow you to quickly warm up during the cold season.

A brick heating stove can be installed with or without a foundation. Most lightweight design assembled into a quarter of a brick (the brick is placed on its edge). In order to give it strength, a frame made of metal corners. A massive furnace requires a foundation, which should not be connected to the support of the building. In the case of a separate chimney, it also requires its own foundation.

Deciding on size and power

The level of heat transfer of a heating and cooking stove must exactly meet possible heat losses, which depend on the temperature outside the house, as well as the degree of insulation of walls, windows, doors, and ceilings.

The size and design of the future furnace is determined by its power.

Furnace structure. Where to start?

The laying of any stove cannot be started without a project or drawing, which must include the location and dimensions of the structure, as well as the outlet of the chimney without disturbing the load-bearing elements of the building. It is also necessary to calculate the heat transfer coefficient of the furnace. The diagram or design of the future furnace is drawn up on the basis of this calculation.

It is quite difficult to independently create a project or drawings of a heating and cooking stove, so you can use the services of a design organization or information on the Internet.

Tools and materials

When the furnace design is approved, you can prepare for its laying.

To fold the stove with your own hands, you need to have on hand:

• Stovemaker's hammer (trowel);
• Trowel;
• Construction level and plumb lines;
• Measuring tape;
• Cement-sand mortar;
• Hand-held power tools (hammer, grinder, etc.);
• Red brick;
• Fireproof brick (burnt);
• Facing brick;
• Mortar for masonry made of clay and sand;
• Heat-insulating and moisture-proof materials;
• Stove fittings and appliances.

Laying a stove with your own hands. All stages

Like any construction process, laying a stove with your own hands is done in stages.

The scheme of this process includes the following points:

• Construction of the foundation. The foundation can be laid not from a whole brick, but from a broken one. A foundation is not used for all stove structures, but if you are building a Russian or massive stove, you cannot do without its construction.

In no case should the support of the future furnace come into contact with the foundation of the building, since they have different settlements and if they are misaligned, the furnace may crack and its operation may be disrupted, and this is a fire hazard.

The depth of the foundation depends on the weight of the furnace structure and its design, and the support area must exceed overall dimensions oven at least 5 cm around the entire perimeter. The foundation is leveled with baked brick masonry in two rows on cement mortar to floor level. When forming the first row of masonry, it is necessary to achieve a flat horizontal surface in accordance with the level, since the quality of the design of the entire furnace will depend on it. Next comes a layer of waterproofing, for which you can use ordinary roofing felt or roofing felt; the material is laid in two layers.

• Furnace laying. The first row is laid on top of the waterproofing. Brickwork from each row should be started without mortar, leaving gaps between the bricks equal to the future seams (3 - 5 mm). Next, mortar is laid in place of the corner brick and leveled with a trowel. The brick itself is immersed in water and kept there until all the air is released. The “recessed” brick is removed from the water and placed correctly on the mortar, tapping it with a trowel to level it. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.

Since ancient times, it has been the custom that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, provide hygiene, and put them to sleep. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house; it is not for nothing that in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swedish stove or Dutch oven are reduced mainly to heating and decorative functions, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing aromatic and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. This article will focus on brick ovens for the home.

Folding a stove is a whole science that was learned in more than one year of study. If you don’t know a qualified stove maker among your friends, but you really want to have a fireplace in your home, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.

Deciding on the design of a brick kiln

Depending on what hopes property owners have for their home, it is worth considering the options that best satisfy all desires. We must not forget about the dimensions of various stoves and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only own strength and means, but also the strength of the foundation.

Russian stove

• Suitable for lovers of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
• The lounger is provided for relaxation; depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. Continuous air flow for better combustion fuel is provided by the blower. The hearth and the bend are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this zone is guaranteed to remain warm for a very long time. Substations and baking sheets were used to store kitchen utensils, grips, and pokers. Stoves are small-diameter recesses located along the side wall of the stove. They were used for drying small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried very quickly in them.
• Those who want to install a Russian stove in their house will have to provide space for it at least two meters high, one and a half meters wide and two and a half meters long. A design with such dimensions will easily ensure uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a stove requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant room volumes or are not fans of traditional color should pay attention to another stove option.

Brick oven photo

Swede

• A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for heating a room and cooking food, is the Swedish one.
• Her height requirements are the same - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to allow you to cook food simultaneously on two burners of a cast iron stove.
• There is also an oven, which housewives will appreciate. The Swede has a lot of modifications, they are named after the developers (furnace designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choose suitable option won't be difficult.

Brick oven video

Dutch

• It will only serve to heat the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside, then the Dutch woman can keep warm for a day. In number design features includes a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutch oven warms up evenly from bottom to top.
• Its walls are thin - one, rarely two bricks; the base in the shape of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of ​​1 m². To heat a medium sized room country house, that's more than enough. And in terms of weight it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of parts, but this only plays into the hands of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch oven is very attractive, to improve appearance it is often decorated with tiles.

Preparatory stage before making a brick oven

At the preparation stage, you need to worry about finding a brick wall design that is suitable in all respects, think about its location, take into account all the requirements for fire safety. You will need to select tools and make purchases the required material and invite helpers.

The project diagram can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted to resources on the Internet. For those interested, detailed courses are even filmed.

Tools you will need:

• mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a cell size not exceeding 2 mm;
• shovel;
• grinder (you will have to cut the brick);
• a pickaxe hammer will help chop solid bricks into small pieces and trim them to the desired shape and size;
• jointing for seams. This special tool, which allows you to give the seams between bricks a neat and aesthetic appearance. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then use this device you won't have to. And when brickwork the master wants to leave it in its original form, then the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
• trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;

• mixer attachment for a hammer drill. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can only be mixed evenly using a power tool;
• It is better to take a tape measure with a reserve of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
• A plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
• This rule is necessary to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat one will do wooden slats more than a meter long;
• using a building level, they check whether the masonry has “collapsed” relative to the horizontal;
• the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops must be kept at the ready. It is better to remove the solution before it dries.

The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the selected furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: cast iron stove, number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main expense items.

• Sand must meet the following characteristics: clean, fine, homogeneous. This result can be achieved by sifting.
• Clay can be skinny, normal or oily. The proportions of the working solution used depend on its type. Many experts advise choosing the “golden mean”, that is, clay of normal fat content.

Brick is available in four main types.

• Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Lay the foundation, build load-bearing wall, build country house- all this can be made from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
• Sand-lime brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
• Fireproof type of brick used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built specifically from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extreme high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) brick the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
  • carbon is rarely found on the market; it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
  • lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
  • The quartz type, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But it can be used for walls and vaults of furnaces;
  • alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating above 1300 ° C.

Fire bricks are more expensive than regular bricks. Russian manufacturers They offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.

Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for finishing. It is used quite often to improve the appearance of the stove. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.

Foundation for installing a brick kiln

• The stove foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will occur in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.

• The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by approximately 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the stove base.

How to lay a Russian brick oven

• What else needs to be considered before starting work? For a classic Russian stove you will need about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of solution.
• As for the layer of the applied mixture, in in this case The rule of more is better does not apply. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to set faster and more firmly.
• According to the classical canons of laying out a stove, the arch of the firebox should be at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a threshold cuts off sparks from the furnace on the pipes and traps soot.

• Procedures have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other stove parts.

Brick kiln drawing

• The base of the stove must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing felt are quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, since they are not afraid of moisture.
• To ensure high-quality ligation of seams in the initial and subsequent rows, in the corners starting row lay three ¾ bricks. That is, from these incomplete bricks a triangle is formed: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made at a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
• Second row serves as the starting point for laying out the opechka.
• Since masonry involves installing bricks staggered, in order to avoid matching seams, third row will require four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
• When laying fourth row you will need to take whole bricks. The pair of bricks that are laid opposite each other to form the entrance to the oven should have beveled corners. This will create supports for the arch. To make the scaffold even, wooden formwork is built in its opening.

• When the arch is completed, you can return to installation fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten with a hammer and a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the oven.

• Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork be designed in such a way that after completion of the work it can be easily removed through the entrance to the oven. If you can’t give the bricks the desired shape, you should use regular ones and fill the voids with mortar and pieces broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with carefully made bevels.
• Seventh row the technique of execution resembles the first one, for the eighth Solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging an area for a cold stove.
• Ninth row- like the first one, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed in the spaces between the walls.
• Eleventh row must completely cover the sand backfill and the stove itself.
• Thirteenth row involves the beginning of work on laying the walls of the hearth and crucible. Between them there is a strip of metal, which in its shape exactly repeats the mouth of the furnace. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should have holes through which steel wire is passed.
• All other rows are performed with the aim of increasing the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires pre-chipped and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces to become a support for the arch of the firebox. The furnace itself is laid out in the same way as a stove.
• The completed crucible roof is a reason to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports are fixed on the side of the pole window. The arch of which they are the beginning will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, crushed stone and broken glass.
• Twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the furnace, and twenty-second forms an additional overlap.
• Twenty-third row must strengthen the shield walls and over-pipe. The last element is where the choke is attached; it is needed to connect the samovar pipe to it if it is planned to be heated indoors. When subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
• Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter (an additional row of three bricks) be formed next to one of the walls. The next row can completely block the overpipe. The only caveat is with right side It is supposed to leave a hole in it that is closed with a valve.
• From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Cutting is done almost right at the ceiling to loosen the bricks a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last meaning is that cutting increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
• After the masonry has dried, proceed to final finishing brick oven, do a test heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.

DIY Dutch brick oven

The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but has its own nuances. Classic version looks like this:

• the design has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
• there is no grate;
• components of the structure:
• the firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the stove;
• a chimney consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three downstream and three upstream channels;
• cleaning door;
• blower.

You will need to purchase:

• refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
• well-bending wire;
• a piece of roofing felt for waterproofing;
• crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
• masonry adhesive;
• firebox door, blower, valve;
• standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.

Dutch brick oven diagram

Stages of work

When the foundation for the stove dries, it is covered with roofing felt, which, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: the clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves and two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. You need to let the solution dry.

• First row spread on top of a layer of sand moistened with water. sand cushion poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Not forgetting about the dressing rules, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
• In the third row they begin to form the ash chamber, the door is installed later.

• Fourth row performed to increase the oven mass, the door is installed immediately. To secure it in the masonry, metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
• The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pit door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- increasing height.
• Some homeowners add a cooking surface to their Dutch oven. If this is provided for in the project, then ninth and tenth row move back. Along the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which the cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the base of the chimney. To make the structure lighter, a metal chimney is sometimes installed.
• IN eleventh row a valve is installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
• IN fourteenth row The firebox is covered from above, and a hole is formed along the back wall to allow excess smoke to escape. Similar work is done in the next row.
• IN two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave the brick in its place without binding it with mortar.
• Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
• Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the mortar, it will set better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.

• For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to heat a Dutch oven with types of fuel that burn quickly (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The oven does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally go down the drain.
• Fuel, which produces a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it produces a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
• The best option is fuel that can smolder for a long time.
• On the issue of fire safety, it is worth adding that a Dutch oven should not be heated too hot. When overheated it will emit carbon monoxide. The degree of heating is checked by simply touching the masonry with the palm: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is approximately 50 ° C. This is the norm.
• Anyone who is laying stoves for the first time should do a test laying using the “dry” method. That is, carry out all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. This way you can get your teeth into it and at the same time decide whether you will need outside help.

Creating a stove with your own hands is not a type of activity that can be conquered the first time. Careful study of the diagrams, test masonry without using mortar, advice from experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Labor and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.

In the last century, the Russian stove was a multifunctional device. This is room heating winter time, at the same time it is hot and healthy food, the possibility of preserving the crop through drying, and household amenities in the form hot water. It cannot be said that a Russian brick stove is an ideal device. The disadvantage of a stove as a heating system is uneven heating. Modern stoves are designed to heat the room to its full height.

The Russian stove consists of the following parts and elements:

1. Opechek– used for storing and drying wood.
2. Cold stove- a small recess in which various utensils are stored.
3. Six- area on which you can place the pot.
4. Under- this is the floor of the cooking chamber. It has a slight slope towards the mouth, for convenient movement of heavy utensils. It needs to be polished well.
5. Cooking chamber- a place for laying firewood and cooking food. The roof of the furnace also has a slope.
6. Overpipe- camera above the pole. The chimney pipe is located higher.
7. Dushnik- a special hole for connecting the samovar pipe.
8. View- closing door.
9. Bed- horizontal surface, located behind the chimney. You can easily sleep on it in winter.

More common nowadays is the improved Russian stove.
It is distinguished by heating the underfloor part, due to which heating the room becomes more comfortable.

For masonry of the combustion chamber, fire-resistant bricks made of fireclay clay are used. The remaining part of the structure is made of ceramic bricks.

Almost every oven has metal or cast iron parts, for example, doors and dampers. They can also be prepared in a certain amount. You will need the following items:

1. Doors: firebox and blower, as well as a cleaning door, ventilation door for the chimney.
2. Grate;
3. Metal valves;
4. View;
5. Furnace damper;
6. Water box;
7. Plate;
8. Steel strips.

To lay out certain parts - arches and vaults - you need easily disassembled templates. They are made from wooden and plywood elements and parts.

Preparation of masonry mortar

Masonry mortar, unlike ordinary mortar, is much more difficult to prepare for furnace work. You can also buy a ready-made mixture in the store. But, if you decide to build a Russian stove with your own hands, then you can prepare the solution yourself.

Solutions for laying stoves are selected depending on:

• If used for masonry solid brick brand M150, then use clay-sand mortar. It is also used for lining the stove with special ceramic tiles;
• Used for laying refractory bricks based on special refractory clay with the addition of sand;
• When using fireclay bricks use refractory clay mortars;
• In the gap between the attic space, brick pipes are laid using cement-sand mortar;

Typically the furnace is located against an internal wall, which has a shallow foundation. To ensure independence of the foundations, it is necessary to leave a gap of about 5 cm between them, and pour sand into it. And the upper edge of the foundation should not reach the floor level by 14 cm.

If the oven is placed at outer wall, on a recessed strip foundation, then it will be necessary to expand the pit and backfill with sand and gravel with careful compaction. Next, the stove is installed with a certain gap from the base of the house, the so-called offset. Sand is poured into it, and its end walls are formed with brickwork.

If you decide to install the stove in the opening, then you just need to connect the ends of the lower crown. This can be done using strips of steel, which are placed on the logs on both sides and tightened with special bolts. Next, the opening is framed with special wooden posts. There must be a circulation gap between them and the future furnace, also called cutting. There should be a gap under the wall in the foundation of the house that will be equal to the width of the stove base on each side.

Laying a Russian stove with your own hands - ordering

The main requirement for laying a furnace is tightness. That is why only whole bricks without any cracks are used for the stove, and the seams are made thin - no more than 5 mm. You should not achieve airtightness by coating all the walls of the oven with clay from the inside - this will reduce thermal conductivity and increase deposits of soot and soot. In addition, the clay flakes off and clogs the channels inside the oven, which will be quite problematic to clean. Today the following methods are used:

• brickwork- at this method the wall thickness will be equal to the length of the brick;
• half-brick masonry- here the brick will be laid flat along the wall;
• quarter masonry- i.e. the brick will be laid on edge.

The dressing of the seams will take place thanks to the use of alternately bonded and spoon masonry in the corners or a non-full-size building material.

If used ceramic brick, it must be pre-soaked, as it will “pull out” all the moisture from the solution.

During the installation process, be sure to remove excess mixture, and especially on internal sides ovens. Lay the outer walls of the oven “in brick”, and the inner walls “in half a brick”. Laying rows is the order of masonry actions in each subsequent row. Thanks to this process, anyone can build a Russian stove.

First row They are laid from burnt bricks; they absorb little moisture. For the first row, the corners are laid out from cut bricks.

Second row begins with the laying of the furnace walls, the clearings are laid in front and on the left side. As a rule, an ash pan is formed on the front part on the right side of the furnace.

IN third row Cleanings on the left are laid without solution. Blower and cleaning doors are installed on the front side. The doors are mounted using burnt steel wire, it is installed in the cuts in the bricks and secured with masonry mortar.

IN fourth row the bottom channels are blocked.

On fifth row install the grate of the small firebox. To install the inside of the firebox, refractory bricks are used; they are also laid without the use of mortar.

IN seventh row The firebox grate is being installed, the walls and the first firebox are being installed. The right wall needs to be strengthened with a steel strip.

IN eighth and ninth row Laying of walls and internal channels continues. The firebox doors of the stove and small firebox are installed.

IN tenth row the arches of the first and second firebox will be connected. Cover the bottom of the furnace. And the smoke circulation channels lead into the furnace.

IN next row A steel corner is mounted on the front edge of the masonry, and a slab is installed on top. The space of the right firebox is covered with a special removable grate.

IN twelfth row laying of the front walls of the furnace and the side walls of the slab begins using refractory bricks. The furnace damper is installed. To the left of the stove they begin to form the lower part of the chimney.

WITH 13 to 16th row The laying of the furnace walls continues and the mouth of the furnace is blocked.

IN row seventeen a certain narrowing of the furnace roof and expansion of the main chimney begins. And the back wall of the furnace is strengthened with a steel tie.

IN 18th row the roof of the furnace will be covered, and the laying of the front wall of the furnace will begin, which will form the overtube.

IN 19th row The front wall of the furnace is strengthened with the help of a screed; the walls are being installed above the furnace, forming a certain space for backfilling.

IN 21st row the stove is closed, and the overpipe will gradually narrow towards the chimney.