Ceramic tile flooring – practical option for wet rooms. This is explained by its high performance characteristics - aesthetics, durability, resistance to moisture, rotting and deformation.

Homeowners often have doubts about whether they can install tiles over wood floors. Of course, it is possible, but with strict adherence to the installation technology of the facing material.

Is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

Ceramic tiles and wood are practically incompatible materials, since wood, like any material of organic origin, dries out and becomes deformed over time. It can also swell and crack, even if it is well secured.

If you put a layer of tile adhesive, or make cement screed directly on the floorboard, then the movement of the wood will certainly lead to peeling of the tiles, cracks in the screed and, consequently, loss of money and time for the next floor repair.

The main task is to create a shock-absorbing layer between the wooden floor surface and the tiles that will compensate for the micro-movements of the base without transferring them to the layer of tile adhesive.

The demand and popularity of ceramic tiles allows them to be widely used for cladding old wooden floors. Laying ceramics is allowed on following types grounds:

• frame,
• log,
• lumber,
• panel

Laying tiles on a wooden floor requires taking into account the specifics of the surface, its high-quality preparation and compliance with installation technology.

Based on the results of the preliminary inspection of the wooden base, the following activities are carried out:

• The surface is in good operating condition without damage - floor preparation and tile laying are in progress.
• The surface is damaged or deformed - installation is impossible. To begin with, a complete or partial restoration with replacement of damaged areas.

A damper layer is installed between the tile and the base to absorb possible movement of the floor. It also provides additional protection for the floor from increased moisture and prevents premature aging of the wood.

Difficulties in installing floor coverings

Neglecting the basic rules for preparing the base and laying floor ceramics can lead to:

• To deformation, cracking and damage to the cladding as a result of wood movement.
• To damage by rot and mold in rooms with high humidity.

In the process of installing tiles, novice craftsmen may encounter some difficulties:

• Insufficient rigidity of the base due to the mobility of wood for fixing floor ceramics.
• Insufficient oxygen access to the lower part of the floor structure.
• Uneven distribution of maximum loads over the entire surface area.

Installation floor tiles V wooden house after completion of construction, as well as the installation of floors with wooden floors, is not produced. Work is possible only after complete shrinkage of the structure after 3-4 years. If the house is built of brick, reinforced concrete or cinder block, then flooring can be done at any time.

Features of laying tiles in the bathroom and kitchen

Ceramic tiles are often used to protect wooden surfaces in rooms and buildings with high humidity - hallway, shower room, kitchen, corridor, bathroom, bathhouse and swimming pool.

The main difference is that in the bathroom, kitchen and other functional areas the air is oversaturated with moisture and steam. This requires additional waterproofing of the surface. For these purposes, PVC film or bitumen-based roofing felt is used.

An excellent alternative is moisture-resistant plasterboard and cement-bonded particle boards up to 2 cm thick. Waterproofing materials are mounted on a pre-installed bitumen roofing felt with fixation with self-tapping screws.

Important! The gaps between the waterproofing material and the walls are carefully filled with polyurethane foam. This will provide additional strength to the base.

The prepared surface is primed, after which the tiles are laid.

Preparing the wooden base

Before performing facing work, it is necessary to properly prepare the wooden surface. The construction of a multi-layer floor pie will ensure solidity and ventilation of the base, reducing the load on the wood.

First, dismantling is carried out wooden structure floor. Deformed and damaged elements are replaced with new ones. If necessary, the lag laying step is reduced and the surface is leveled. Additionally, the structure is treated with antiseptic compounds.

Instructions for preliminary preparation wooden floor involves the following steps:

Stage 1. Dismantling the base and preliminary cleaning of the paintwork. Surface cleaning is carried out in three ways:

• Chemical. Treating wooden floors with chemicals that help dissolve varnishes and paints.
• Teplov. Heating the base with construction hair dryer and dismantling the coating with a metal spatula.
• Mechanical. Removing the coating using a power tool - an angle grinder with an attachment, a grinder or medium-grain paper.

Stage 2. Checking the condition of individual floor structural elements - joists and beams, replacing them with new parts and leveling the surface.

Stage 3. Antiseptic treatment surfaces. Wood is susceptible to high moisture and temperature changes, and therefore requires maximum protection from rot, deformation and mold. Treatment is carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, observing the interval and intensity of application.

Stage 4. Arrangement of a thermal insulation layer. For insulation, fine expanded clay is used to fill the free space between the joists in the floor. To maintain natural ventilation a 6 cm technological gap is provided between the lower part of the log and the insulation.

Stage 5. Installation of subfloor. For these purposes, a clean and level board is used, which is fixed to the base using galvanized screws. The surface is leveled with a thin layer of putty. The distance from the wall to the floorboard is filled with foam.

Instead of a floorboard, 12 mm plywood or chipboard sheets can be used after pre-treatment with antiseptics.

Waterproofing layer under tiles

Careful waterproofing of the surface will ensure a long service life of the floor cladding. For these purposes, practical, wear-resistant and reliable material, resistant to moisture penetration and condensation.

The surface is treated with heated drying oil or latex-based impregnation, over which a special damper tape is laid overlapping. It provides the necessary shock absorption and compensation for movements of the wooden base.

Double-sided shock-absorbing tape is installed with the elastic side facing the wood and the durable side facing the tiles. An additional benefit of using a damper layer is to maintain natural ventilation and prevent moisture penetration.

Methods for leveling the floor surface

To lay tiles on a prepared wooden floor, you need to create a reliable monolithic surface. This can be done in three ways:

• dry method,
• method of pouring cement-concrete screed,
• express way.

Dry leveling

Quite a popular way to get flat surface using moisture-resistant drywall, plywood and OSB boards. Such materials are characterized by increased strength and static properties, resistant to deformation and rotting.

Dry surface leveling is different:

• Increasing the thermal insulation characteristics of the base.
• Simplicity and accessibility technological process laying insulation.

Among the disadvantages are:

• A significant rise in floor level, which is unacceptable for small rooms with low ceilings.
• Visual difference between a smooth and untreated surface.

Dry leveling is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Installation of thermal insulation, processing protective compounds and fixing the painting mesh with an overlap.
2. Filling with a leveling dry mixture of expanded clay chips, sand and other binding components. Uniform distribution of the mixture over the entire surface.
3. Installation of the selected material - plywood or slabs - in checkerboard pattern so that the joints between separate elements didn't match.
4. Cleaning the surface and joints with a grinder and treating with a deep penetration primer mixture.

Wet screed

The method of leveling the surface is similar to creating a conventional screed for decorative finishing.

A floating screed is prepared from leveling polymer and cement-sand mixtures.

Its main advantage is the creation of a monolithic base that is resistant to movement of the wooden structure. And the disadvantages include: an increase in the height of the floor cake, significant labor and financial costs.

Construction work wet screed are performed in the following order:

1. Increasing the strength of the base. If the logs are located at intervals of 50 cm from each other, then it will be necessary to check and replace the deformed areas with reinforcement of the structure using bars.
2. Installation of intermediate flooring from boards. For these purposes, solid floorboards up to 4 cm thick are used, which are fixed to logs while maintaining technological gaps of 1 cm.
3. Installation of plywood or slabs up to 12 mm thick, similar to brickwork. Technological gaps between individual elements are 3 mm.
4. Arrangement of a waterproofing layer from polyethylene film or oiled paper over the entire surface of the floor, secured with double-sided tape.
5. Pouring a ready-made leveling mixture or cement-sand screed up to 10 mm high over the entire surface.

Express method of surface leveling

It is used to level surfaces that are in excellent operating condition or have minor visual defects. For work, moisture-resistant cardboard is used, which is fixed to the rough board using self-tapping screws or special polymer-based glue.

The main advantages of the method include simplicity and low cost of installation, and resistance to temperature changes in wood.

The process itself is performed as follows:

1. Before installing drywall, the horizontalness of the floorboards is checked. Differences are eliminated using improvised means: wax paper, roofing felt or fiberboard.
2. Drywall is mounted on the surface using brickwork in two layers. It is important to ensure that the joints between the rows do not match.
3. A gap is provided around the perimeter of the base, and the seams between the individual elements are filled with sealant.
4. The base is carefully treated with a primer mixture.
5. The gap is filled with polyurethane foam, after which the baseboard is installed.

Laying ceramic tiles

The technology for installing tiles on a wooden surface is quite simple to master on your own. First you need to prepare working tools and materials:

1. Ceramic tiles.
2. Crosses for tiles.
3. Tile adhesive.
4. Construction mixer.
5. A spatula with teeth.
6. Rubber hammer.
7. Tile cutter.
8. Level.

There are several options for installing tiles: rectangular and checkerboard, herringbone, diamond or pattern.

Important! First, the material is dry laid on the surface to be selected the best way installation

The main stages of laying tiles on a prepared base:

1. Marking the perimeter and dividing the room into four zones diagonally.
2. Preparation glue mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions per 1 square of area.
3. Apply the mixture with a spatula and distribute it evenly on the surface for mounting two elements.
4. Installing the tiles on the adhesive mixture with soft tapping with a hammer to ensure that each element shrinks tightly. Placing crosses in the seam space to adjust the seam width.
5. Next, the material is laid to fill the entire floor surface.
6. Checking the quality of masonry building level.
7. After the adhesive mixture has completely dried, remove the crosses and grout the tile joints.

High-quality laid tiles on a wooden floor will allow you to get a reliable and practical covering, which will last for decades. The main thing in this matter is to follow the installation technology, and also take into account professional advice and recommendations.

In many houses, the floor is made of floorboards along the joists. When walking it bends, so correct styling tiles or porcelain tiles on a wooden floor becomes not an easy task. In this article we will tell you how to lay tiles on a wooden floor and how to prepare the base.

Unlike wood, tiles have a number of advantages. Its qualities are excellent for use in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom and toilet. Tile:

• does not ignite;
• non-toxic;
• not afraid of contact with chemical solutions;
• withstands heavy loads;
• does not conduct electric current;
• does not lose its appearance from moisture, sun rays or frost;
• ceramics are easy to clean.

The main disadvantage of tiles is that the surface is cold, so walking barefoot will not be very pleasant. To get rid of this, heated floors are often used. They can even be installed on a wooden base.

Laying process

Installation of tiles is designed for a durable and rigid surface. Therefore, you first need to inspect the existing floor.

As a rule, old floors consist of several layers:

• coating (laminate, linoleum, parquet, painting);
• substrate (chipboard, boards, plywood), which is fixed to the joists;
• The logs that lie on concrete base along the entire floor with an interval of about 50 cm - they serve as the frame of the structure.

Preparing a Wooden Floor

First option

Suitable for those who have sagging.

1. 1. Remove old coating and backing. If the old logs are in in good condition, then you can leave them as a basis.
   2. Remove the floor covering using a nail puller. Then install the joists on the substrate in a horizontal position using a level.

For greater preservation of the wood, treat the logs protective impregnation.

1. 1. Fill the joists to the top level with fine expanded clay. This will prevent the boards from sagging when walking.

1. We cover the surface with boards (see article about) or thick plywood. The boards should be fastened with 2 self-tapping screws approximately 5 centimeters long.
2. For ventilation, leave small gaps between the boards or drill holes later.
3. Place parchment paper on top of the boards and lay down a new backing. For this purpose, gypsum fiber sheets 20 millimeters thick or cement-bonded particle board 10-20 millimeters thick are suitable. The sheets must be fastened at intervals using self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the logs, in increments of 15-20 cm.
4. The gap between the wall and the floor can be filled with polyurethane foam.
5. Now prime the surface and lay the tiles as you would on a regular floor.

Second option

Suitable for those whose gender is poor condition, but the conditions allow for a screed.

1. Remove old cladding floor. To prevent moisture from penetrating inside, the wooden floor is waterproofed under the tiles.
   The simplest method of waterproofing is the use of polyethylene film.
2. Using a laser or water level, mark a horizontal floor line around the perimeter of the room.
3. Install the beacons at a distance of about 1 meter from each other and about 10 centimeters from the walls. To do this, use metal profiles, screwing them to the concrete with dowels.
4. The screed is made either with a solution of cement and sand (composition: 1 part M-400 cement to 3 parts sand), or with cast concrete.
5. The average consumption will be approximately 15 kg per square meter. meter with a layer of 1 cm.
6. If you need to fill a layer that is too large, then first pour expanded clay between the beacons, 2/3 of the layer thickness. Fill it with screed and wait for it to dry overnight.
7. After drying, clean the surface from floating expanded clay. Prime and fill with mortar. This time you need to level it using the beacon rule so that the floor is level. Start leveling from the far corner towards the exit.
8. After three days, prime the screed and preferably fill it with a self-leveling solution.
9. All! The screed is ready - now feel free to proceed with the usual methods.

Third option

Suitable for those who have a floor in good condition and covered with chipboard sheets.

1. Waterproof the gaps between the wall and the wood with polyurethane foam.
2. Soak the chipboard several times with protective impregnation or heated drying oil (be careful, this is flammable).
3. Then apply a thick layer of latex to the surface of the chipboard.
4. Immediately after applying it, place a painting net on the surface and leave until dry.
5. When the latex has dried, the mesh must be secured to the floor with self-tapping screws.
6. Treat the surface with a mixture of the following composition: 1 part water, 2 parts liquid glass, 2 parts coarse sand.
7. It is advisable to additionally level the surface with a self-leveling solution. When everything is dry, tiles are laid on the wooden floor.

Video on laying tiles on a wooden floor in an apartment:

That's all the basic methods on how to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor. As you can see, this is not an easy task and will require a lot of additional preparation. And if you put tiles directly on wood, the tiles will quickly crack and fall off due to constant movement.

A wooden floor will require significant effort during the preparation phase.

How to lay tiles on a wooden floor yourself: difficulties and features of the process

Generally speaking, ceramics are far from best option for combination with wood. This is due to different characteristics these two materials:

• Wood tends to change its size as a result of the influence of external factors: when humidity increases, the tree expands; when humidity decreases, on the contrary, it can dry out. In many cases, this leads to deformation of the tile covering and the appearance of cracks;
• Unlike tiles, wood is highly susceptible to various kinds of destructive processes and has a much shorter service life than ceramics. Therefore, you can often encounter a situation where, due to destruction wooden backing you have to dismantle the tiles;

• The tile coating, together with the water-repellent glue, blocks access to the wood of oxygen, which is necessary for the full service of the tree. As a result, a significant reduction in the service life of the base;
• Only the lightest tiles can be used for laying on top. Otherwise, its weight will be too great for the wooden base and over time the tile will fail.

So, is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor? Can. But this is a rather complicated process. If you're still confident in your decision to install ceramic tiles over wood floors, be prepared to put a lot of effort into it. But the result is worth it, so let's move on to preparing the base. Let's look at how to lay tiles on a wooden floor step by step.

Useful advice! It is strictly not recommended to lay tiles on top of a wooden floor that has not been installed for at least two years. This risks causing the tiles to crack during shrinkage.

Basic requirements for data processing construction work, look like this:

• provide oxygen access to lower layers coatings (wood);
• distribute evenly permissible loads over the entire surface;
• ensure the stability of the base.

In order for all these points to be met, it is necessary to plan the order of work and follow the plan. It would also be useful to look various videos on how to lay tiles on wood floors.

Assessing the condition of the coating: is it possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor?

The first stage involves a thorough inspection and assessment of the condition of the wooden base. To do this, it is best to remove the top boards and carefully inspect all structural elements: beams, joists, each board on both sides, insulation, etc.

If there are any signs of damage, the base section must be replaced or repaired. What you should pay special attention to:

• presence of rot. There are many types of rot, so you need to carefully inspect the surface. Regardless of the type of fungi that generate this process, the wood softens, changing its color or structure. Checking for the presence of rotting elements is carried out as follows: you must insert an awl into any fragment that makes you suspicious. Easy entry - reliable indicator destructive processes in wood. All affected elements must be eliminated, and adjacent parts must be treated with special antiseptic agents for wood;

• wood-boring beetle larvae. These insects destroy wood by gnawing many passages in it. To solve the problem, the same approach is used as in the first case - replacing the damaged area and carefully treating it with a special compound.

Most of the processes destructive to wood develop as a result of high humidity. Therefore, installing tiles on a wooden floor in a bathroom requires special attention. In dry rooms, the development of fungi can occur as a result of a violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer. Considering these factors, it is worth checking carefully waterproofing materials for damage. You may need to lay down an additional layer.

Useful advice! Fungal spores are present in almost any wood. The only way to prevent them from ruining the floor is to carry out high-quality processing antiseptics and create the most unsuitable living conditions for them.

If none of the above defects were found on your floor or you have already eliminated all existing defects, then you can lay tiles on a wooden floor.

How to lay tiles on plywood: preparatory stages of work

Before you begin preparing to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, you must make sure that the distance between the joists does not exceed 50 cm. Otherwise, it is necessary to install additional supports, since otherwise the structure may not withstand the weight of the coating and fail. As useful source For information, you can use the videos presented on the Internet: how to lay tiles on a wooden floor is discussed in sufficient detail.

Useful advice! Do not forget to treat all new wooden elements with antiseptic agents.

Next, you need to check how even the logs are, for which a building level is used. As a rule, during the shrinkage process, irregularities appear due to uneven subsidence wooden parts. All these defects must be eliminated by cutting off excess elements with a plane or, conversely, by additionally lining small pieces of bricks or any other material. If it is not possible to push the missing element under the bottom, you can stuff an additional board on top, trimming it to the required height.

After leveling, it is necessary to treat the coating against fungus and bacteria. To do this, use the product with as long a break between repeated treatments as possible and follow all the recommendations specified in the instructions.

The most common surface treatment before laying ceramic tiles on a wooden floor is hot drying oil. For high-quality protection, it must be reapplied several times (up to five). The product is a completely natural, environmentally friendly impregnation. Each subsequent layer of drying oil is applied after the previous one has completely dried. You can make sure it is dry by touching the surface - it should not be sticky.

The main thing in the process of treating with drying oil is not to let it cool down, because its antiseptic effect directly depends on the temperature: the hotter it is, the better it destroys larvae, spores and bacteria. In addition, when hot, drying oil is more liquid and can penetrate deeper into microcracks.

Useful advice! Heating drying oil is an unsafe process. Its vapors can be flammable, so placing the container on the stove is strictly prohibited. When heating the septic tank, keep it over the stove and, just in case, prepare a piece of tarpaulin that can be used to extinguish the source of fire.

How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: necessary cleaning of the boards

If all previously removed boards are in satisfactory condition, they can be reinstalled, after first cleaning them of the old varnish or paint with which they were covered. This can be done while you wait for the antiseptic solution to dry completely.

To remove varnish and paint residues from the surface of the boards, you can use the following methods:

• construction hair dryer set to a temperature of 200-250 °C. A stream of hot air must be directed at the paint, as a result of which it will begin to swell with bubbles. To remove it, use a spatula, knife or scraper. In some sources you can find recommendations for use blowtorches, however this is not a good idea. There is a high probability of overheating of wood, and, as a result, deterioration of its technical characteristics;
• chemical removers are a gel-like mass and are sold in almost all construction stores. This remover must be applied evenly to the surface and after a while removed with a spatula along with the softened paint. The only drawback of this method is the considerable cost of the material, if we're talking about about processing a large floor area;
• mechanical cleaning involves peeling paint from the surface with a spatula or sandpaper without using auxiliary materials. It's cheap, but it takes a lot of time. A sanding machine will help speed up the process significantly.

If, after removing the coating, you find any defects that were not noticed before, it is better to replace the damaged areas. In addition, all boards are subject to antibacterial treatment. After the impregnation is completely absorbed, you can begin laying the subfloor under the tiles.

How to Lay Ceramic Tile on a Wood Floor: Laying a Subfloor

The process of laying a subfloor begins with laying an insulating layer. The material you choose should be non-hygroscopic. This will keep the area underneath the tiles dry and prevent bacteria and fungi from growing there. Also, the material must have a minimum weight in order to create as little load as possible.

Extruded propylene foam can be considered a suitable option. Due to its synthetic origin, it prevents the development of any living organisms on its surface. True, this material also has disadvantages: it does not allow air to pass through well and is quite expensive.

As an alternative, expanded clay can be used. It is natural and conducts air well. However, it has more weight and a more hygroscopic structure.

Whatever insulation you prefer, it must be laid out on top of the layer

Mineral wool was used as insulation for the flooring.

If you want a heated floor under tiles on a wooden floor, then in this case it is better to seek help from professionals. Installation of the system is quite complex and requires a certain level of skill.

When all the boards are laid and secured, they can be puttied and then leveled using grinder. All cracks must be sealed with foam. It is flexible enough to allow the wood to expand, but can also support the weight of the tiles and adhesive.

Installation success and long service life flooring 50% is determined by proper preparation of the base. According to clear construction regulations, only a perfectly leveled surface capable of “holding” the weight of the ceramics and its own stable position can become a worthy basis for tiles. Due to the fact that “windy yoke” wood is not inclined to remain permanent, laying tiles on a wooden floor has long been considered a pointless procedure. However there is construction plans, the use of which can reconcile the “playful” nature of the building material with the harsh character of tiled or clinker finishes.

How to reconcile ceramics with a wooden base?

Due to the organic origin of wood, it cannot be classified as an “unshakable” building material. It shrinks from lack of moisture, swells from excess. A new wooden floor still settles for one and a half to two years after construction, and even after the period set for post-construction shrinkage has expired, movement still occurs. Unnoticeable to the human eye movement negatively affects the solidity of the tiled surface. Structural connections are broken, tiles peel off and crack. As a result, not only all the work goes down the drain, but also a lot of money invested in finishing.

This means that the task of a home-grown finisher is to create a kind of damper layer that absorbs the characteristic movement wooden elements. Solid outer part this layer needs to be turned towards the ceramic coating, and the elastic back should be exposed to the shocks and blows of the wood. In addition, the wood hidden underneath needs to breathe, otherwise it will quickly rot, overcome by fungi and mold.

Preparatory stage - preparation of the base

By wooden floor we obviously mean not only plank floorboards visible from the outside. This is a multilayer structure consisting of powerful beams, lags laid “in a cross” along them and a substrate located under the boards. Before tiles are laid on a wooden floor, all elements of this complex system must be thoroughly inspected and tested.

Inspection of the wooden base

Since it is recommended to finish a new wood floor exclusively with tongue and groove boards, it is not difficult to guess that the floor will have to be dismantled for inspection. After all, the floor with wooden floorboards has already served its purpose. The absence of squeaks and wobbly boards is not an excuse for laziness. It is possible that the problem that is already brewing may simply not be felt.

Attention. If the joists were laid at intervals of more than 50 cm, the floor will need to be completely re-laid, otherwise it will not support the weight of the ceramic-finished screed.

Let's assume that the design completely satisfies us. Then we carry out inspection, repair and preparation in the following sequence:

• remove the existing floor covering;
• we check beams and joists, replace damaged or beginning to rot elements;
• we check horizontality and carry out alignment;

Please note. If you raise the lag in the usual way– it is impossible to drive a wedge or place scraps of lumber under it; the board must be sewn on top, then trim off the excess, focusing on the level readings.

• We generously treat all components of the wooden floor with antiseptic impregnations, preferably mastics with the maximum renewal frequency indicated in the technical specifications;
• After the antifungal impregnation has dried, fill all the spaces between the joists with fine expanded clay. We fill in the insulation so that between the top line of the log and the surface of this heat insulator there remains 5 cm for ventilation;
• We are preparing to re-lay the floorboards; they will serve as a rough base, since gypsum fiber board or waterproof plywood, despite the convincing assurances of the manufacturers, will not withstand intense exposure to moisture and repeated temperature fluctuations. Although dry leveling with plasterboard, chipboards or plywood is quite suitable for arranging a bathroom, a small bath kitchenette and a rest room;

Attention. If you want to install tiles on a wooden subfloor covered with used boards, you will need to remove the paint or varnish from the floorboards. It is easier and cheaper to remove the coating with sandpaper or a sharp scraper. You can quickly remove it using a special chemical “wash” or a hairdryer, which softens the protective and decorative coating.

• we lay back the boards that have become rough, leaving 3-5 mm gaps between the floorboards to ensure the possible expansion of the rough floor. We fasten the boards with galvanized self-tapping screws (one in each row joist, two in the outer ones);
• if available minor defects, holes from former fasteners or knots need to be filled with putty;
• level the laid subfloor grinder or simply sand it if leveling is not required;
• There should be a centimeter technological gap around the perimeter of the floor. We fill it with silicone foam or glue it with a polymer membrane tape (we bend a 30mm strip of membrane in half, attach one part to the lower edge of the wall, the other to the floor);
• the gaps between the boards, between sheets of plywood, if it was used to level the floor in “dry” rooms, are also filled with foam or glued with membrane tapes;
• To form a monolithic insulating layer, we treat the subfloor with heated drying oil or latex impregnation without the notorious savings.

Please note. Instead of mastic, you can use parchment paper, bitumen or waxed roll equivalent.

If it was decided to carry out waterproofing with drying oil or impregnation, and not roll insulation, without waiting for them to dry completely, the surface to be prepared must be completely covered with a painting net. This will create a continuous insulating layer for laying tiles on a wooden floor, protecting against moisture and compensating for the effects of wood movement.

Lightweight screed device

Now you need to form a solid, rigid base for the ceramic floor cladding. This will be a standard screed, but lighter and more refined, since the wood does not need extra pressure at all.

The base for laying porcelain stoneware, clinker or tiles on a wooden floor can be arranged in three ways, these are:

• Filling a standard cement screed, the thickness of which does not exceed 3 cm. First, we lay a metal mesh over the waterproofing and fasten it with self-tapping screws to the rough base, then pour the traditional cement mortar, which can be replaced with a polymer screed.

• Instead of the compositions intended for forming screeds, we use KS glue with a base of liquid glass. A two-component polyurethane adhesive will do instead. After polymerization, it will also create an elastic layer that prevents cracking of the tiles due to the deformation vagaries of wood.

Please note. Solution with liquid glass To fill the screed, you can make it yourself. To do this, you need to mix one part of water, two parts of washed and sifted coarse sand and two parts of liquid glass.

• In the “dry” rooms of the bathhouse, you can do quick dry leveling DSP slabs or moisture-resistant drywall. We lay them “in a run” at an angle of 30º to the direction of laying the rough boards so that the butt seams do not coincide. The seams can be additionally glued with a compound designed for working with gypsum plasterboard.

Description of the tile laying process technology

Before gluing, we’ll do a preliminary “try-on” and figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor more beautifully. Trimming cannot be avoided, but it is better to place the trimmed parts in shaded areas and on the periphery of the room. Therefore, we will begin the preliminary layout from the central part and from the maximum illuminated area. We will immediately determine how many tiles will need to be cut and prepare them in advance. If you don’t need to cut a lot of tiles, just stock up on a tile cutter. For numerous cuttings of tiles, you will need a grinder.

Further steps for laying ceramic tiles on a properly prepared wooden floor are no different from standard methods, so:

• To begin with, it is recommended to find the center by intersecting the diagonals. We divide the room into four equal segments, drawing directions with coated painter's cord along the walls or diagonally, depending on the chosen layout.
• We prepare the glue in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. We do not spread it more than is required to finish 1 m² of floor.

• Apply the solution with a spatula-comb to the floor surface. The size of the teeth of a comb tool depends on the dimensions of the ceramic elements. For large tiles 0.8 mm, for a smaller one.
• We lay the tiles on the surface treated with glue, inserting plastic crosses into the butt seams, or in extreme cases, matches.
• We constantly control the longitudinal and transverse directions, as well as horizontality, by applying a block to several tiles.

Please note. It is only possible to level the masonry and correct defects for now adhesive solution won't harden. Longitudinal and transverse directions can be adjusted by slightly moving them. The “sunken” tiles need to be separated, the missing mortar added and laid again.

All adhesive “bloopers” from the surface of the tile must be removed with a damp rag, without waiting for the solution to set. After installation is completed and the glue has hardened, the seams are moistened and rubbed.

Tiles have long been considered good facing material. It is used today in commercial and residential construction. There are many types of tiles.

It can compete with any coating with its patterns, textures, colors and other external characteristics. Its main advantage is wear resistance, excellent fire-resistant and water-repellent properties.

Laying tiles on a wooden floor

Tile is most often used for bathroom or kitchen tiling. Craftsmen increasingly began to use it in work and living spaces. Is it safe to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden floor, and how effective is it?

Many tile manufacturers state that their products cannot be laid on wood. A plank base does not guarantee strength and rigidity for the structure.

If the moving wooden floor begins to rot, the concrete screed on it will begin to crack in a situation where the boards begin to sag. Then the tiles will collapse, and cracks will begin to appear in the floor.

Now new techniques are emerging that make it possible to lay tiles on wooden floors. In this technique important role plays a role in the quality of foundation preparation.

Preparing a wooden floor for tiles

At the beginning of the work process of laying a new floor on top of the old one important point becomes the correction of defects and shortcomings that have previous coverage. The key point when choosing tiles is the wooden base with high level rigidity and strength.

Floor preparation

The process of preparing a wooden floor can be divided into the following stages:

• First, the entire wooden floor must be sorted out; boards that have flaws, rotten or cracked, must be removed. The frequency of installation of lags must correspond to their bearing capacity. The weight of the floor together with the tiles will increase several times.
• After disassembling and reassembling the floor, you should check its evenness. We use a level capable of measuring the horizontalness of the log. When performing such a check, you need to leave 10 mm gaps between the rough base and the walls. These gaps are insulated with polyurethane foam. To make the floor durable, expanded clay is used, which will increase the energy efficiency of the floor and will be an excellent sound insulator.
• Then the wooden base is laid. You can use boards in good condition, plywood with a thickness of at least 12 mm. This plywood is well suited for a tiled floor as a base and can support its weight.
• All remaining rough coating and joists should be treated with special chemical impregnations, which will clean them from rot and fungus.
• We fix the plywood and boards, providing ventilation due to the presence of gaps between them, up to 5 mm wide.
• Waterproofing made of bitumen, parchment or polyethylene film is laid on top of the rough base.

Installing the base under the tiles

Laying tiles on a wooden base

There are three ways to install under the base tile. Each of them has its own technology:

• The first case is to use a conventional screed, which is lightweight and thin. For this purpose, a metal mesh is used, attached with self-tapping screws to subfloor using beacons. Then the cement screed is poured, its thickness is approximately 3 mm. It is permissible to use a self-leveling screed.
• The second case involves the use of a base made of polyurethane glue with a liquid glass base. After drying, it forms excellent moisture insulation. Such joints are suitable for laying tiles on top of a wooden floor. It can support a lot of weight.
• The third case is the installation of cement bonded particleboard, moisture-resistant gypsum fiber or plasterboard for waterproofing. It is recommended to use gypsum fiber from these materials. This material is characterized by insulating properties, ductility and greater strength. The flooring is attached to the subfloor using self-tapping screws. It is important to avoid overlapping floor elements and plaster joints. The seams of the base are glued with special means. Then the slabs or sheets should be covered with a soil base until completely dry. This option is good when laying tiles on a wooden floor in a wooden house.

Laying stages

When the base for the tiles is prepared, it is necessary to check its horizontalness with a building level. Then the tiles are laid.

Installation steps:

1. Preparatory work.
2. Marking.
3. Sticking.
4. Laying.

Preparatory work consists of correctly calculating the amount of material. Often up to 10% of the space reserve is taken into account, in comparison with the total area of ​​the room. It is important that at this stage the purchased ceramic tiles are actually floor tiles and not wall tiles. These two types of tiles are similar to each other, but weak wall tiles are not suitable for flooring. It also does not have an anti-slip effect.

Then the tiles should be laid out in the room over the entire area in order to evaluate the appearance of the future floor externally and determine the locations for pipe openings and other communications.

It is necessary to check whether the height of the new floor allows for opening the doors. Otherwise, you will have to change the height of the doors, rehang them on higher hinges before installing the tiles on the wooden floor.

So that there is no air in the tile, it is soaked in water for 15 minutes. If the tile cannot withstand this procedure and stains form on it, then the surface of the tile should be cleaned with a damp brush.

Marking and preparing glue

It is necessary to mark in such a way that fewer cut tiles have to be used when placing them near the walls. When laying diagonally, you will have to cut a lot of tiles, and laying along the wall is carried out, starting work from the opposite side to the entrance of the room.

If according to design solution If a special pattern is assumed, then it is necessary to act according to this plan. It is important to take into account the requirements for optimal floor height, communications and other preparatory nuances.

Then the glue is prepared. Tiles are laid on a wooden floor using special cement adhesive. For its production it is used plain water, purchased dry powder and a certain amount of plasticizers.

Such mixtures have a short drying period (no more than 4 hours), so the glue must be used immediately or prepared in small portions. To ensure a high-quality glue consistency and good installation, it can be mixed with a construction mixer.

Apply the glue in even stripes using a notched trowel. Application begins in the center of the room, in one of the corners. For each size of tile used, you must select separate trowel sizes. The spatula teeth should have a size that is 30 to 40 times smaller than the width of the tile.

The glue dries in a fairly short time (about 15 minutes), so it should be applied approximately 1 meter square area, and the tiles must be laid immediately.

Laying on a wooden floor

Features of adhesive for laying tiles on wood

When the tile is laid on a wooden floor, it should be pressed into the adhesive using a rubber hammer. The seal is sealed with light blows. Each surface area of ​​the treated edges must be covered with tiles. Then another area of ​​the room or the next square meter is processed.

First, whole pieces of tiles are laid on a wooden floor. Then start filling free space near the walls. The required pieces of tile can be cut with a special tile cutter.

After installation, the floor is cleaned with a rag to remove any remaining adhesive. Wait for it to dry for two days, then seal the seam joints. They are rubbed with fugues, which gives the floor a more aesthetic appearance.

Fugue is applied rubber spatula using diagonal movements. All seams must be filled, then the remaining fugue must be removed. After 30 minutes, the fugue will dry, and the floor should be wiped with a damp cloth, and after 1 hour - with a flannel. After this, the tiled floor wooden field ready.

The coating is completely identical to the tiles that are laid on concrete screed. It is sufficiently durable if no mistakes were made when processing boards, plywood and joists. Treated wood can long time serve as a base under the tile covering. It also guarantees good thermal insulation.

Impregnation of wooden floors, use special compounds and expanded clay improve the reliability of the tile covering, which eliminates its own shortcomings. Even the simplest floor will be an excellent base for laying floor tiles on wood.