Installation of soft bitumen shingles must be carried out in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Inattentive Study technical documentation, errors when choosing materials for roofing pie, haste and the desire to save lead to various problems, including: leaks, visual defects, reduced service life of the coating.

Knowing the most common mistakes will help you avoid unforeseen situations And serious costs for urgent repairs.

Use of wet lumber. During the operation of the house, the board used for sheathing dries out and becomes deformed. The slope becomes uneven, which leads to shingles peeling off, water flowing in, and reduced resistance to wind loads. You need to use an edged board coniferous species with humidity no more than 20%.

Laying OSB without gaps. This leads to deformation soft tiles in places where OSB sheets join and the formation of elevations that spoil the appearance of the roof. Compensation gaps prevent the sheets from pressing against each other as the temperature rises or humidity increases. The installation instructions say: “a gap of 2-3 mm should be left between the OSB sheets.”

Improper storage of underlay carpet. Bends and folds, dents and creases form on the material. As a result, laid underlay carpet loses ideal surface geometry. becomes more complex, it becomes more difficult to select a pattern, on the surface finished roof waves are formed. The lining carpet should be stored in an upright position at normal humidity and a temperature not exceeding +30ºС.

Laying underlay carpet at low temperatures. As the temperature rises, a natural change in the linear dimensions of OSB sheets occurs. This leads to the formation of waves on the roof from flexible tiles. The defect is more cosmetic and may go away over time. But is it worth the risk? Manufacturers recommend at a temperature not lower than +5ºС.

Error in selection of material: thick carpet, thin tiles. This combination “reveals” all the shortcomings and flaws in the installation of the base and underlayment. Irregularities and waves appear, resulting in a decrease in the resistance of the coating to wind and mechanical loads. It is better to use soft tiles and carpet from the same manufacturer, and the thickness of the tiles should be greater.

Errors when installing wind slats. These provide a tight connection between the roof and gables of the building. Improper installation leads to water flowing under the tiles and into. The pediment planks begin to be laid from the eaves, making an overlap between adjacent elements of at least 5 cm. The planks are nailed with roofing nails in checkerboard pattern.

Use fewer nails for fastening or nails without notches. Saving on fasteners or using nails that are not intended for fixing the roof leads to a decrease in the reliability of the roof. In this case, the shingles are easily torn off by strong winds. For installation of soft tiles, 25-30 mm long with a wide head are used. There are 4 - 6 nails per shingle (depending on the angle of the roof).

Installation without using markings. Laying shingles “by eye” leads to the formation of a crooked pattern. The markings play the role of guides; horizontal lines are applied using construction laces or using a stretched rope.

Use shingles from only one pack. This leads to the formation of a “zebra effect”, which will negatively affect appearance roofs. Manufacturers recommend taking one shingle from 5-6 different packs to avoid variations in color.

Installation in hot weather. At temperatures above +25ºС, the bitumen in the flexible tiles softens. This makes it difficult to move on already installed shingles, and there is a risk of damaging the shingles with shoes. Roofing works It is better to carry out at a temperature of +5 - +20ºС in dry weather.

Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles customized solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on a roof with a complex structure - what more could you want? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation of flexible tiles itself will be within your power, believe me, even if this is your first time encountering this type of work!

Therefore, if you carefully read our tips, you will be able to cover even a large roof with the help of one more person. The fact is that even in the factory, shingles are prepared for gluing by applying a special solution to bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive in the roofing nails. And about all the intricacies of working with soft roof We'll tell you now.

Once the roof frame is complete, install the vapor barrier as a continuous carpet on the inside of the roof, with no gaps, and secure it to the rafters using wood strips. You will then attach the inner lining of the attic to these same planks.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it on its own, using natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, a vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional strip is stuffed on the rafters, rolled out vapor barrier film with an overlap and glued with special tape (regular tape is not suitable!).

Next, with outside Place the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably staggered. Cover the top with a windproof membrane and secure with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation channels.

As a result, you should end up with a “layer cake” like this, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class, how and in what order everything should happen:

As you noticed from the photos above, laying flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes was not difficult!

Step 2. Installation of continuous flooring

To install flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards on the prepared sheathing, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and secure it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for a base for flexible tiles is a flat area and the ability to fix the shingles with nails. Suitable for this purpose are sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue and groove boards laid end to end. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But big mistake use only the sheathing itself, albeit more frequently, for a soft roof, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such errors.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the eaves overhang with metal strips. These are laid edgewise on the edge of the base and secured with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places as abutments, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay rather than roofing felt or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they have a finishing roofing– different service life, and even conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will provide a guarantee for a roof that contains materials from third-party manufacturers.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people try to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the entire house is not enough, and concessions have to be made. But, if you want to lay roofing tiles and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will penetrate into the under-roof space, especially in such difficult places as crawl spaces chimneys or contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when strong wind raises shingles during a rainstorm.

Moreover, choosing a roofing carpet is not difficult, because... it is subject to the same requirements as tiles: to be resistant to temperature changes, provide reliable waterproofing and last a long time. A modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today operate on European equipment and the quality of their products is not inferior to their foreign counterparts.

In general, underlay carpets come in two types: self-adhesive and with mechanical fixation. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out over the remaining roof area and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a regular roofing carpet that will need to be fixed bitumen mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing carpet:

So, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal for a valley. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of possible leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Before this, we recommend placing a self-adhesive bitumen-polymer material, for example, “Barrier”, on the eaves overhangs, and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate ventilation passages and areas around them in advance. skylights and chimneys. Before installing the flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bitumen mastic yourself - it’s not difficult.

Before you start laying shingles, you will also need to reinforce eaves overhangs. They need to be fixed with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an educational video lesson from the company on this topic:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To secure shingles, you will need special nails with wide heads. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the head is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “cram” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for installing soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Tar paper nails. Their edge is so sharp that when buried in the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or constructing temporary sheds.
• Rough nails. They have special teeth on the working rod that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily driven into wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, during the dismantling process, the heads of rough nails are simply cut off - and that’s it. They fix the roofing so tightly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• Club nails They have longitudinal grooves and jumpers on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you use galvanized rough nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bitumen shingles, and they differ from their standard counterparts.

These are made from durable steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then on one side the workpiece is sharpened, and on the other it is riveted into the shape of a hat. If you find these on sale, you can buy them.

But it is important that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the head is at least 8 mm. The thing is that when working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, with the next blow, simply sink into the bitumen layer and thereby violate the integrity of the coating. But the expanded cap will not be able to “sink” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingles, which is why high-quality nails for flexible tiles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for three-layer tiles - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some would-be builders don’t understand why they can’t just heat up sheets of soft tiles and glue them to the flooring, why exactly nails and all the fuss associated with them? Actually use open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to basic considerations fire safety. So, forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic appliance.

Step 5: Place the starting strip

Now let’s move on directly to laying flexible tiles. It starts from the starting line. As such you can take:

• a pattern from ordinary tiles, for example shingles with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge-eaves tiles, especially if you work with “ Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it is more convenient for you to start with the eaves tiles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the bend. Next, nail it down, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater the indentation from the point of inflection should be:

Here's what laying the starting strip looks like in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to install bitumen shingles at temperatures less than +5°C, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to avoid cracks.

If you still have to fasten shingles in such conditions, then prevention will be needed: the sheets are heated construction hairdryer and bend over metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

Calculate required quantity shingles are not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​the slope and divide the second by the first. Here is valuable advice on how to calculate and prepare flexible tiles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, you can get by with detailed calculations, but the marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying soft roofing for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off several sheets and reattaching them to fix a jamb is not the most fun. And absolutely without markings, if some element is embedded in the roof or the overall geometry of the slope is broken. Tools such as a hammer, a plumb line and a level will help you in this matter.

As we have already said, usually, for convenience, ready-made shingles are marked with small holes in the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer the nails. If there are none (for example, in the cheapest collections), then simply step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cut of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail simultaneously pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45°, then the upper corners of the shingles also need to be additionally fixed.

The entire procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Before installation, mix shingles from several sticks to minimize color variations. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start laying the tiles from its center and level it horizontally. And the second row is already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Shift the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, left or right, depending on which direction you initially chose.
3. You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a smaller slope, and you should approach a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. steep slope It is recommended to beat off the chalk lines so as not to get lost. Now cut the tiles on a more slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat them with bitumen mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
4. Lay the tiles from bottom to top, moving away from the edge of the drip edges. Here you will need to lay special ridge-eaves tiles. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it works from electrical network. The main thing is that when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger mechanism should be comfortable, with protection against an accidental shot and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, usually a hammer is more intended for small work on household, and professional roofers use it extremely rarely.

The only point: if the special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip of nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are connected to each other by a thin wire. This kind of tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one after another. This is much more convenient when working at height: you don’t need to look for bunches, you don’t need to expose your fingers to the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was not securely fixed, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted by the wind, will tear the sheet, shaking the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely avoid problem areas, which is why periodic inspection of such a roof is necessary.

Now let's look at the features of installing shingles different types. So, from a single-layer tile before installation you need to remove protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing covering is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as “ Dragon tooth", there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it chaotically, simply mixing shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways to install asphalt shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is already more complicated: it is important to do correct markings ramp and navigate along it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fastening the tiles in the valleys

And now - about the most problem areas roofs. You can organize the valleys, namely the internal curves of the roof, in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing is to then make a triangular strip at the junction of the roof and the wall and place tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bitumen primer. Upper part the junction must then be covered with a metal apron, which must be secured and inserted into the grooves, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and spine tiles

Next, we will understand the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary tiles. By the way, spine tiles are obtained when the ridge-cornice tile is divided into three parts, or they are cut out from ordinary ordinary tiles using the perforation method.

To correctly lay the spine tiles, use a cord to mark off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two stripes along it, and lay the spine tiles from the bottom up. Then secure the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid on the side opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Then everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If in in the right places There will be no self-adhesive layer, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here the ordinary tiles should be cut so that there is a distance of 3 to 5 mm between adjacent slopes:

Here's another great tutorial that walks you through the details of the process:

And finally finishing work. The installation of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with special ridge tiles.

Also, special additional elements are made for soft roofing - these are the lower parts roof passages, which are popularly called “skirts”. And to prevent snow from accumulating behind ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross-section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and all that remains is to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep away all small debris, leaves and branches, from the roof. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean your gutters and funnels from time to time.

Fortunately, a roof made of flexible tiles is highly repairable: it is enough to heat the damaged area, remove it and lay new tiles. It's just a matter of one day!

The roof is the face of the house. That is why this part of the structure must be given special attention, but you may have considerable difficulties in the selection process roofing material, since there are many “rumors” about soft roofing. Let's still find out what is “truth” and what is “false” regarding.

Myth No. 1: Soft roofing is the same roofing material only more expensive

In factcomparison of these materials causes indignation among specialists.

In order to understand the differences or similarities between these roofing materials, you must first find out what is the basis of the material. The basis of roofing felt is recycled waste paper - paper! The basis of the soft roof is fiberglass. Fiberglass, unlike paper, does not rot - this is the first and most important difference!

For production, high-quality bitumen is used with the addition of an innovative SBS polymer, which is used to cover fiberglass on both sides, which makes it durable material compared to roofing felt, for which ordinary bitumen is used.

The top layer of roofing material - the surface is not protected from ultraviolet rays in any way, which is why the service life is only 5 years. The top layer of the soft roof is stone granulate, which protects the bitumen from any external influences, resulting in a service life of more than 50 years.

Myth No. 2: Soft roofing is a very expensive roofing material that only very rich people can afford.

In factone of the most common myths.

Firstly, “very rich people” are ready to purchase roofing materials for their home such as slate, copper, and, of course, soft roofing... right?

Secondly, yes - flexible tiles are not cheap, but compared to the roofing materials listed above, they stand out for their affordable price.

Most likely, this rumor was generated by owners of houses with outdated roofs, who know only one roofing material - slate. So, after a certain time, everyone who owns a house is faced with the problem of choosing roofing material. Often the choice falls on flexible tiles, because they are beautiful and reliable material. Comparing the price of outdated slate or low-quality roofing felt with flexible tiles, the difference becomes so obvious that it is difficult not to notice. In this case, of course, flexible tiles are an expensive roofing material. Unfortunately, it does not happen that a cheap roof can be of high quality, reliable and durable.

Remember that saving on the roof is just as absurd as saving on the foundation. The service life of the entire building depends on the quality of the roofing material.. The question of “cheap or expensive thing” is individual for each person.

Myth No. 3: In the cold, flexible tiles crack and break.

In factThis assumption is partly correct.

The fact is that each of the materials presented on the market has its own production characteristics and technical specifications, so to speak, a “recipe” for flexible tiles. Some soft roof manufacturers use oxidized bitumen, which is main reason the fragility of the roofing material, it cracks in the cold and cannot withstand mechanical pressure (you cannot move on such a roof).

However, if flexible tiles are made on the basis of polymer-modified bitumen (SBS), then they can easily withstand the conditions of the harsh Russian winter. SBS is styrene butadiene styrene or artificial rubber. The unique molecular structure of polymers interacts with bitumen, increasing its flexibility, elasticity and strength over a wide range of temperatures and reducing the sensitivity of bitumen to extreme temperatures. Bending of such a material at sub-zero temperatures shows flexibility and absence of cracks at very low temperatures.

Myth No. 4: Flexible tiles deform in the sun and the boards are visible

In fact, unevenness will occur on the roof only if low-quality (raw) boards, plywood or OSB boards. We recommend using quality slabs OSB or moisture-resistant plywood, and if used edged board, then it should be naturally dried!

Myth No. 5: Flexible tiles fade

In fact, the color of Katepal flexible tiles is ensured thanks to the surface of stone granules, which are colored thermochemically, i.e. the coloring enzyme penetrates into the structure of the stone, and is not simply coated on top, so the granules do not lose their original color. This is also protection against ultraviolet rays.

This is a misconception that homeowners have when inspecting their roof. If you bend (raise) the top row of shingles, the color of the granulate underneath will be much darker and richer. There is a very simple explanation for this: it is not those granules that are in sight that are subject to change, but those that are covered with subsequent shingles.

The difference in the color of the tile granules on the upper “petals” and “under the petals” occurs due to the fact that bitumen, which has an oily dark structure, is absorbed from the upper layer by granules of the lower, which is why the upper shingles appear “faded”, more faded. This is where the misconception arises that roofing material fades.

Myth #6: Very difficult installation in cold weather!

Really difficult - but possible!

It cannot be installed in rain or snow; the presence of an SBS modifier allows work to be carried out during negative temperatures, but some conditions must be met:

1. Before installation, tiles are stored in a warm room for 2-3 days.
2. For better adhesion, the adhesive layer of the tile is heated with a hair dryer; in extreme cases, it is glued with a heat gun.
3. All metal elements that require bending, bend only in a warm room.

Bitumen adhesive for work must be heated in a water bath (it is strictly prohibited to dilute it with acetone and other additives).

Myth No. 7: The need for additional expenses due to a solid foundation

In fact, a solid base - design feature flexible tile roofs.

Just as a house needs a foundation, so does a roof, for example, from natural tiles- powerful sheathing and reinforced truss structure, for the proper functioning of the under-roof space it is necessary proper ventilation. Neglecting these requirements and perceiving them as an extra waste of money is, at the very least, wrong. Each material has its own prerequisites, without which its use is impossible.

We hope that your choice of roofing material will be based on solid facts and not on the misconceptions of the majority.

When installing flexible tiles, the use of low-quality, cheap component materials that do not comply with GOST leads to unpleasant consequences. For example, “blowing of the roof” or “appearance of waves.” In this article we would like to take a closer look at the reasons for this effect.

Example 1: Flexible bitumen shingles from a European manufacturer. 3TAB shingle shape. Photo taken from a large Russian construction portal.

This problem and methods of dealing with it are well known to professionals, and we would like to once again Focus on this topic to prevent installation errors.

Example 2. Flexible bitumen shingles from a European manufacturer. Shingle shape Hexagon. Photo taken from a large Russian construction portal.

It is no secret that the real reason for this problem is the quality of the materials of the solid base and compliance with the technology of its installation. This conclusion is clearly confirmed by the results of studies of similar objects, as well as tests of base and roofing materials conducted by our company, studies conducted by our colleagues from the Unikma company (), as well as many foreign studies.

The most common material for making a solid base today is OSB-3.

This has to do with technology of this material, attractive price and high performance characteristics, declared by the manufacturing companies. However, it is real properties of this material are the source of problems.

The reason for the formation of waves is the linear expansion of the OSB board (see Fig. 1 and Fig. 2). When delivered to the site in its original packaging, the OSB board has minimal humidity due to its manufacturing technology. The humidity of the new slab material is significantly lower than the humidity of the surrounding air. During operation, the moisture content in the slab and the surrounding air comes into equilibrium, which leads to moistening of the OSB and linear expansion (swelling). The edges of the slab, thanks to the 3-5 mm gaps left between the slabs, have the ability to move, which leads to the formation of “waves” on the shingles of asphalt shingles along the short (to a greater extent) and long sides of the OSB slabs.

Rice. 1 Factory humidity of OSB during installation without preliminary exposure.

Rice. 2 Actual humidity of OSB during operation.

If you doubt the quality of the product, ask the distributor for a quality certificate for the OSB board, which indicates the actual characteristics for a specific batch of products.

Installation conditions.

The formation of “waves” is less often observed on roofs installed in warm and humid seasons, since in such conditions OSB boards have time to acquire “equilibrium” moisture even before installation of the roof covering - during storage on the site and installation of the base.

Waves most often appear on roofs installed in cold weather (less than +5 °C), when air humidity is minimal. But they appear when the outside temperature rises along with air humidity.

When installing a roof in cold weather, we recommend pre-conditioning (conditioning) the OSB panels before installation. OSB panels should be stored outdoors for 1-2 weeks, exposed to atmospheric air, while it is necessary to cover the OSB panels from precipitation, and lay gaskets (slats) between the sheets to allow air access to all parts of the sheet.

The problem is aggravated by the fact that the quality of OSB boards leaves much to be desired. For example, at some sites where waves appeared, samples of OSB boards from leading manufacturers were taken and sent to an independent laboratory to be tested for the indicator “thickness swelling in 24 hours” (GOST 32567-2013 clause 5.8 table 5).

Example 3. Flexible bitumen shingles from an American manufacturer. 3TAB shingle shape. Photo taken from the American Construction Forum.

According to the test results, at least half of these samples did not comply with GOST for this indicator, and, as a result, they were unsuitable for use as a solid base. Unfortunately, absolutely all manufacturers of flexible tiles, both domestic and foreign, are faced with this phenomenon, regardless of the shape of the tile or the type of bitumen. And this once again confirms that the reason for the occurrence of “waves” lies in the foundation.

Some customers mistakenly believe that this effect is due to the quality of the shingles or underlayment themselves, blaming the manufacturer. They base their guesses on the fact that when the OSB roof is opened, the slab looks normal, i.e. it does not delaminate, does not warp, and even some of the gaps remain (only they become much smaller, but no one pays attention to this). This gives the impression of a quality product. But, as shown above, this is not at all the case, and it is the OSB board that is the root cause of the formation of folds on the roof.

However, there is also positive news: from the experience of observing similar roofs on which waves formed, it was noticed that these deformations disappear over time. The time period ranges from several weeks to one year and depends on the quality of the OSB board, air humidity and the organization of ventilation of the under-roof space. In addition, do not forget that this effect affects exclusively the aesthetic perception of the mounted material and cannot in any way worsen waterproofing characteristics flexible bitumen shingles.

Example 4. Multilayer flexible bitumen shingles from Russian manufacturer. Shingle shape Dragon tooth. Photo taken from the Russian construction forum

Below we would like to present measures that will reduce the risk of waves on tiles:

• Pre-conditioning (conditioning) of OSB panels before installation. OSB panels should be stored outdoors for 1-2 weeks, exposed to atmospheric air, while it is necessary to cover the OSB panels from precipitation, and lay gaskets (slats) between the sheets to allow air access to all parts of the sheet.
• Cutting OSB sheets along the long side (2500 mm) into pieces of 0.5 meters, which will reduce the linear expansion of each individual piece and reduce the formation of waves.

We hope that this article will help minimize the risk of such a phenomenon as “waves” on the roofs of our clients!

07.01.2016

If the soft roof comes in waves, this is a sure sign of a violation of the installation technology. The reason for this is a violation of the technology for laying tiles or those located under them. thermal insulation boards. The problem cannot be fixed simple repair roofing: it is necessary to completely cut off the damaged area and re-tile the tiles.

Causes of malfunctions

The cause of waves and swellings should not be sought in the tiles - they just perform the functions of a covering. Problems usually arise from the sheathing, thermal insulation or vapor barrier. For example, a common case is when the side edges and ends of insulation boards covered only on one side are damaged. Difficulties can also appear in difficult places - where the sheathing forms corners or transitions. Improper pruning of heat and vapor barrier materials may cause the roof to lose its shape.

The fact that it is broken is also indicated by swellings with a diameter of more than 1 meter. The occurrence of such air or water “bags” occurs due to the fact that the heat flow lifts water vapor to the roof, where it condenses on the materials and is absorbed into them. In winter, this is especially dangerous, because during the cold season the insulation repeatedly thaws and freezes again, as a result of which the moisture alternately turns into a liquid and solid state, destroying the roofing carpet. Blocks of ice formed in the insulation tear it off from the base, and at the same time increase the size of the pores in the materials included in its composition.

In summer, roofing with low-quality vapor barrier is also at risk. Roof surface in hot weather sunny days heats up to 80 degrees. The enclosed space, where the water droplets absorbed by the roofing carpet are located, warms up even more, so that the water turns into a vapor state. The volume of water vapor is 15-40 times greater than the volume of liquid. This is the reason for the formation of “bags” in those places where the vapor barrier is broken.

Solving roof problems

If waves on the roof are associated with damage to the insulation, local roof repairs are necessary. To do this, the tiles are removed along with the thermal insulation and re-laid, but not on the entire roof, but only on the damaged area. The base for re-sticking the materials is thoroughly cleaned, and the thermal insulation is installed in 1 or 2 layers. The same applies to the difficulties associated with improper cutting of vapor barrier and insulation materials.

The “bags” are removed in another way: they are cut with an envelope, the corners are turned away and dried. Internal sides The corners are cleaned of dirt, greased with mastic and glued back. The cuts are wiped with a comb and covered with a patch, it is puttied and covered with a layer of mastic. Sometimes an incision is not needed: if there is only air in the “bag”, it is enough to puncture the swelling, inject 20 g of kerosene or white spirit inside, and then press the damaged area tightly.