Now you can buy a lathe for wood and metal to suit every taste (and at any cost). Of course, many of the most modern and additional functions(which most often are not needed).

I don’t argue that a lathe is very necessary and useful thing for the workshop, but in 90% of cases it is not worth the money spent on it.

We want to help you save your finances. Why buy a model with many unnecessary functions if you can make a standard simple model yourself?

Wood lathe materials

The design itself consists of the following parts (see picture)

1. The bed is the basis for the machine, usually made of metal and consists of several connected beams.
2. Transverse U-shaped beam.
3. Electric motor – serves as a power source for correct movement around its axis (single-phase motors with a power of 200-400 Watt are suitable).
4. Lathe chuck.
5. Tailstock support.
6. An element that rotates.
7. Support for a workpiece or tool.
8. Support for the tool rest.
9. Guide beams.
10. Angle, post, or support for the tailstock.
11. Clip.
12. Metal plate for support.
13. Cross guide detail.
14. Screws for fastening.
15. Support axis.

Wood lathe step by step instructions

First of all, you don’t have to buy a new motor, but take a used one; it will cost you much less.

The elements are fixed to the base (No. 1 according to the figure) 2 U-shaped beams are connected by welding to two transverse ones (No. 2 according to the figure).

The guides on top are additionally fixed with two corners (No. 10 in the figure), which are secured to the main surface.

The engine (No. 3 in the figure) is attached to the side and the headstock is secured.

It is worth using a rotating center as the basis of the tailstock (buy the part from purchased option) fasten it to the support (No. 5 according to the figure) and weld it on the platform (No. 12 according to the figure)

The stop (No. 5) is made from a corner and attached to the support (No. 8), which itself is attached to the holder. The stop and holder are threaded onto the support axis (No. 15) and then welded to the guide beams.

The same stop (No. 5) and the rotating element (No. 6) are fixed on metal plates (No. 12) that contain special moving clips (No. 11).

Please note that the stop and tailstock are moving elements that should move along the guides (No. 9) without any problems.

To ensure that the moving elements are well attached to the clips, preliminary holes are made in the clips (No. 14) and the slightest inaccuracy reduces the quality of operation of the entire device.

The welding itself may lead to deformation of the material - first all materials are held together spot welding, and then carry out the full work.

Wood lathe video

Metal lathe materials

To make such a tool you will need:

• Sheet metal;
• U - shaped metal beams;
• Steel strips;
• Steel corners;
• Electric motor;
• Transmission mechanism;
• Several nuts and bolts for fastening;
• Bulgarian;

Separately, it is worth mentioning about the engine, it does not have to be new, you can limit yourself to an old or used one, its power should be 2 kW with a number of revolutions per minute within 2000. Although this depends more on the level of your work on this machine.

The more massive the workpieces, the more powerful the engine should be if you want to make a compact machine with low power– even a motor from a washing machine or electric drill will do.

As for the transmission mechanism, you can find it online or buy it from friends old box gears and remove the clutch from the gearbox. Thus, you will get a mechanism that creates several speeds for your machine. And if you install an additional pulley, you can improve the number of revolutions.

Metal lathe step by step instructions

The installation should begin by using steel corners and a U-shaped beam, from which (1 corner and 1 beam) you need to weld a frame for the base.

To do this you need to wedge the base. Guides are assembled from square pipes and steel strips.

In addition to this metal sheet, they make a box for the fist chuck; after installation, adjustable bearings are placed in it.

The tailstock must be welded from a corner and a thick plate, the support of which will be the guides.

The headstock should move easily and freely along the guides. Weld nuts to the top of the headstock (to secure the supporting center).

The sharpened cone should be mounted into the beam, while maintaining maximum accuracy. Such a cone can be made from any bolt that suits your size.

After this, the entire structure is assembled, the spindle is checked for ease of rotation, and the front and rear centers are adjusted to create a level axis.

Now you know that building a machine for wood or metal is quite possible and requires little knowledge and effort from you, and at the same time it will cost you much less (and even if it breaks, you can fix it yourself).

In general, making such a machine will help you even if you do not often do such work; only such mechanisms are very bulky and you need a place to store them (or you can make “pocket” models).

Metal lathe video

Reading time ≈ 9 minutes

Nowadays, the instrument market offers a wide variety of the most various models and types. But you can’t always afford to buy expensive equipment. Therefore, next we will consider how to buildDIY metal lathe. You just need to purchase materials and allocate time.

Metal lathe - functionality and types

The most primitive lathes appeared many centuries ago and have not lost their position since then. Such machines belong to metal-cutting units. Regardless of the classification, they perform a single task - they process metal workpieces, which are objects of rotation according to the principle of turning or cutting. Both operating principles can be combined in one machine.

Lathe

The functionality of this equipment is significant, including:

• boring or turning of various rotational bodies (shaped, conical and cylindrical surfaces);
• trimming and processing end sides of parts;
• cutting threads of various shapes and sizes (mostly such machines have a separate name - screw-cutting lathes);
• deployment;
• countersinking;
• drilling and more.

The main element of such equipment is the spindle. It fixes the workpiece material and rotates with the workpiece during operation. At this time, the cutting tool moves along the parallel and transverse axis of movement of the workpiece. The degree of productivity of all equipment in terms of time spent removing metal shavings from the working material directly depends on the power of the structure and the drive motor. This also affects the overall dimensions of the working part that can be processed by the machine.

In fact, there are many parameters by which lathes are classified. But if you want to designhomemade metal lathe with your own hands,you need to decide what you need it for. At home, it can easily perform most turning tasks, and your metal workpieces will acquire the desired size and shape. Since such a machine, even the most simple , is very expensive, it is much easier for home craftsmen to build such equipment on our own. And the time spent will pay off pretty quickly. How to create the most common metal one, like on photo , we’ll talk further on our own.

Construction of a metal lathe

It is worth noting that serial metal cutting machines take up a lot of space and are quite inconvenient for working at home. That's why masters choose them mini - a version that can easily fit in a regular workshop. Ahow to make your own lathe,which can easily cope with standard functions, look further.

What do you need to know to build a conventional lathe?

A standard metal lathe gives you opportunity process the necessary workpieces of various configurations. Plus, it's not that difficult to make.

1. Use the drawing to create the machine and ensure its correct and efficient operation.
2. Don't have to do it unit completely metal. For example, racks can be made of wood, significantly reducing the cost of the entire structure. For secure attachment to the frame, use bolt fasteners.
3. To ensure maximum reliability and strength, the frame is made cast. But you can weld a frame from metal corners using pipes from steel profile. You can also replace them with channels.

If you are making machine, it is best to find everything necessary details and components from the same equipment that was used. But in practice, such luck is rare. Therefore, it is necessary to form the main structural units beyond their own capabilities.

Video: DIY lathe

A power unit must be used as a drive. An asynchronous type electric motor with low speed is best suited. With them, you have almost no risk of breaking the engine in the event of a sharp drop in speed, which cannot be said about commutator engine options.

If you do not intend to process parts whose diameter exceeds 10 cm, then installing an electric motor with a power of 500-1000 W will be quite sufficient. For parts whose dimensions are more than 10 cm in diameter, you need to use a more powerful option. The minimum power should be 1.5 kW.

Particular attention must be paid to fastening components for connecting the various components of the machine. To create a home machine, use 8mm and 10mm bolts and nuts that have standard metric threads.

In order to make a slide, most often they take parts that are turned from a steel bar. After this, they are hardened. It would be optimal to use shock-absorbing struts from which the guides are formed. You can also take long shafts of mechanisms for industrial use. Such products have good geometry, and the surface of such parts can be easily hardened when used in a factory work process.

If there is no factory tailstock, then it is best to get one to make it profile pipes And metal sheet with great thickness.

Important: if you have a homemade quill, be sure to lubricate it every time you fix the workpiece. For this you should take solid oil or lithol. If you have a factory center of rotation, then this procedure is not scary for you. So, assessing this indicator, it is better to fork out for such a part and buy a ready-made one.

Preparing to create a device

Next, we’ll take a closer look at how to make a metal lathe with your own hands. First comes the important preparation. To device was done correctly and efficiently, you need to stock up on the necessary tools:

• welding apparatus;
• emery grinding machine;
• Bulgarian;
• set of wrenches;
• marker for marking;
• drill with a set of suitable metal drills;
• ruler (preferably metal);
• calipers;
• taps, as well as dies for cutting threads.

To determine the dimensions of the future machine, you need to go out maximum length and the diameter of the parts that will be processed on it. The average parameters of lathes in production with low power are:

• up to 62 cm wide;
• up to 115 cm long;
• axis height – 18 cm.

For home use design This size is quite suitable, and making it larger is impractical. In addition, increasing the parameters may carry the risk of curvature of the overall geometry.

Step-by-step instructions for creating a lathe

It's logical what to submit universal instructions It is impossible to create a metal lathe. After all, each master himself determines its dimensions and features, based on his needs and capabilities. That's why basic The question is the principles and sequence of actions. We will consider them step by step.

1.Frame construction

Making a solid frame from cast iron at home is impossible. Therefore, for these purposes, take channels or profile pipes made of steel. It is necessary to cut them according to the specified sizes.

Using the drawing, you need to weld them together, forming a frame. Remember to keep the right angles straight. This is easy to do with the help of a square, which you can use to measure the evenness during each joint.

It is better to choose a place to work on a solid and level horizontal slab, which will provide maximum flat surface For construction work and minimizes the possibility of distortions.

2. Using a lathe, you need to turn the side posts of the bed.

Side racks

3. Assemble the racks together with the guides.

At this stage, spacer bushings are also installed, which are located between the side elements of the support.

4. Install the bushings that secure the tailstock.

The tool holder is also mounted here. They can be different or the same length. In the first case, the long component will perform guiding functions, and the short one will support the moving units. This combination will make the rear center travel larger.

5. Make the platforms that are necessary for attaching the quill and caliper.

They are made from a sheet of steel, the thickness of which is 0.8-1 cm. After that, they are attached to bushings (retaining and guiding). To connect, take bolts 6 mm in diameter. When making holes for them, make precise markings, otherwise you will end up with moving parts of the equipment skewed or jammed.

Creation of sites

6. Installation lead screw.

There are two options: make this part on a machine or take the necessary part from regular high chair, which can change height. In this case, it is imperative to install bronze or brass anti-friction bushings in the side pillars. A steering wheel with a vernier is mounted on the lead screw.

Main feed screw

7. Assembly of the frame part ends with the installation of the place where the headstock is attached.

8. The next step is to assemble the headstock. Take:

• bearing base;
• ball bearings – 2 pcs.;
• main shaft and pulleys;
• spindle.

Headstock

9. Proceed to assemble the tailstock. Here you need to use:

• long screw;
• bushings that have threads inside;
• metal profile;
• handle.

10. Monitor or adjust the correspondence of the center axes.

11. Assembling the caliper.

The principle of operation at this stage is similar to assembling the frame. It is necessary to attach bushings to the guides, install a vernier with a screw and a small steering wheel.

Caliper assembly and tool holder

12. The creation of a tool holder is made from the following materials:

• bolts with a diameter of 0.8 cm;
• a thick metal plate.

Then you need to mount it on the caliper.

13. Using welding, form a subframe where the engine will be placed.

As a basis, you can take corners or pipes from a profile. Please note that this element of the machine will raise or lower the motor. This is necessary to avoid problems when throwing the belt on the pulleys. This is necessary during the spindle transition from one speed to another.

14. Installation and connection of the electric motor.

After performing this operation, you can do a test switch-on.

Engine installation

If everything works perfectly, then all that remains is to paint the metal lathe (including all components) with your own hands. This will protect the machine from the influence of time and corrosion processes and make it more aesthetically attractive. Your brainchild is ready to go!

If you have any questions, you should look at the thematic video

Video: metal lathe

In most cases, a homemade lathe successfully replaces expensive factory equipment. Especially when there is a desire to process metal with minimal costs for equipment.

It's not at all difficult to make a small benchtop lathe your own. with my own hands, or you can choose a more complicated drawing - for a garage. The cost of parts and materials is affordable; some spare parts will probably be found on the farm.

Basic elements and operating principle

One of the most important characteristics metal lathe is the ability to withstand severe loads encountered when processing metals. At the same time, accuracy and speed are required.

A simple design for metal processing at home contains:

• base (bed);
• two racks (aka headstock);
• electric motor;
• motion transmission mechanism;
• device for securing the workpiece;
• stop for the cutter (support).

The main mechanisms are located in the headstock, but the motor homemade design may be outside. Using a transmission mechanism, the movement from the motor is transmitted to the spindle - a hollow shaft, to which the workpiece is attached using a chuck. serves to support the free end of the part.

Precision processing is achieved not only by skilled hands:

• stability of the base;
• absence of spindle “beating”;
• reliable fastening of the workpiece in the chuck.

Made according to all the rules, the mini-machine is easy to operate and compact. It is suitable for processing small metal parts various shapes, blanks made of wood, plastic.

Selection of parts

When the drawings of all components and fixtures have been developed, you can begin selecting parts.

Base

The purpose of the frame is to rigidly fix the leading and driven centers. For a desktop mini-machine, you can make it yourself from wooden block. This design will withstand working with small metal parts. A stationary frame for a garage or workshop must be durable; it is welded from a corner, metal strips or channel. It is recommended to use factory made guides. If not available, they are assembled from rolled metal with their own hands.

The dimensions of the bed determine the dimensions of the parts that will be processed. So, the length of the workpiece depends on the distance between the faceplate (chuck) and the center of the tailstock.

Electric motor and transmission

Most suitable for homemade machine — asynchronous motor. Its feature is a constant rotation speed. To process metal workpieces, the following power is required:

• for working with small workpieces made of soft metals - 0.5 - 1 kW;
• for working with large parts and steels - 1.5 - 2 kW.

The engine from electric drill high power.

The use of commutator motors whose rotation speed depends on the load should be avoided. Accelerating at idling, it may cause the workpiece to eject from the chuck and cause injury to your hands. If there is no other engine, the collector engine must be supplemented with a gearbox that controls the speed under any load.

The transmission can be belt or gear. It’s easier to assemble a belt with your own hands; it’s quite reliable. The belt neutralizes the force directed along the shaft and destroys the electric motor bearings.

You can also use a gearbox, which will allow you to operate at several speeds. And you can increase the engine speed with the help of an additional pulley.

An alternative to a gear mechanism is to mount the tool chuck directly onto the motor shaft. This device is often used for desktop mini-machines assembled from a drill or hand engraver. When planning it, you need to choose a motor with a sufficiently long shaft! To partially compensate for the load along the shaft, between its end and back surface a stop is installed on the body, for example, in the form of a ball.

Master and slave centers

In order for the part to rotate smoothly and not vibrate, the centers must be located strictly on the same axis. The workpiece is fixed with a faceplate or a jaw chuck.

The driven center is located on the rear support and can rotate or be stationary. A threaded hole is made in the support and a bolt is screwed in, which is sharpened to a cone. The bolt should have a stroke of about 3 cm in order to press the inserted workpiece tightly. The rear support (headstock) moves along the base along a guide. But in the simplest mini-machines, the end of the workpiece is supported by a retractable sharpened threaded pin, the amplitude of which is small.

Machine assembly process

The design will be based on an old working drill.

1. From corner No. 40 we weld a base 70 cm long: at the edges there are two long corners, between them two - 40 cm long - this is the length working area. Between the short corners we leave a gap - a guide.
2. Headstock in in this case- This is a rack in which you need to conveniently and securely secure the drill. Let's make it out of metal corner and plates. We cut through the vertical part round hole under the drill chuck. The cartridge should fit tightly into the hole.
3. We weld the headstock to the base at the corner.
4. The base for the tailstock is cut from angle No. 100. In the center of the horizontal part of the corner we drill a hole for a bolt that runs along the guide and holds the headstock. The bolt is welded from below to a rectangular pressure plate, and adjusted from above with a nut.

The support or tool holder will move along the central guide. To make a caliper, you will need a cast iron blank with a diameter of 80 mm, from which 2 parallelepipeds are cut out with a grinder. We cut holes with a diameter of 22 mm in them for the bushings. We will make the rods from car axle shafts found in the garage.

We cut out the base and side parts from a metal plate. Between the rods we weld a bronze nut pressed into a steel sleeve, into which we screw a threaded pin passing through a hole in one of the sidewalls. Here we weld homemade pen or lamb. We drill a vertical hole with a thread in the moving part with our own hands. We weld a plate - a tool holder - onto a long bolt. We pass the bolt through a square plate mounted on the bearings and screw it into the moving part of the caliper. Along the perimeter of the plate we will make clamps for the tool holder from bolts.

Common disadvantages of homemade lathes

• Low power of the electric motor, which does not allow achieving sufficient performance of the mini-machine;
• small spindle diameter, limiting the size of the workpiece;
• lack of automation, so all settings are done manually;
• limitation maximum dimensions blanks;
• vibrations due to a fragile frame.

The first video clearly shows the design of the caliper; the second video presents another model of a homemade lathe, assembled with your own hands:

Those men who like to make something with their own hands, over time, have a desire to make a metal lathe for their needs with their own hands. According to the owners of such a machine, working on it brings the joy of transforming shapeless blanks into an elegant, turned object created independently. However, a finished machine is an expensive thing, so we decided to tell you how to make this equipment yourself.

What is a lathe used for?

Among the various machines for working metal, the lathe was among the first that could process any material, metal, plastic or wood. This machine allows you to produce parts of various shapes, the outer surface of which has been machined, holes have been drilled or bored, threads have been cut or a grooved surface has been knurled.

There are many models of lathes produced by equipment manufacturers for different purposes. But industrial machines, in most cases, are expensive, large in size and weight, and too complex to be used at home. Excellent alternative solution If you want to assemble a metal lathe with your own hands, this mechanism will be small, easy to operate and will allow you to quickly make small parts from metal or wood.

A lathe makes it possible to produce wheels, axles and other parts with round. For home handyman Having a wood turning machine in your arsenal is very convenient. You can use it to turn tool handles, various parts for furniture repair, shovel holders or rakes. You can develop gradually, from simple details, gain experience, gradually learn how to turn elements of figured furniture or parts for elegant sailboats.

In a lathe, the workpiece is fixed in a horizontal position and the machine rotates it at high speed, then the moving cutter removes excess material to obtain the part. Although the operating principle of the lathe itself seems simple, to ensure reliable operation precise, coordinated work of many parts that make up the machine mechanism will be required.

The history of lathes

The first devices (of a fairly simple design) for processing stone or wood workpieces and producing cylindrical parts appeared in Ancient Egypt. Subsequently, the design of the machines became more complex over a long path of improvement, which led to the emergence of modern precision and high-performance turning equipment.

The beginning of the production of lathes (industrial and independent) was laid by the invention in the 18th century of a lathe, which used a mechanically moved caliper. This design was developed in Russia by a talented mechanic and inventor Andrei Nartov. In his machine, racks, pulleys, screws, gears and other parts were made of metal. But, as before, the machine was driven by a flywheel spun by a person.

When they were invented at the end of the 18th century steam engine, then, in the 19th, the engine internal combustion, and subsequently the electric motor, manual drive in the machines they replaced it with a mechanical one. From one common engine, using a transmission shaft, motion was transmitted to the lathes. The shaft itself was mounted on the wall of the workshop or under the ceiling, and each machine was driven by a belt drive.

At the beginning of the last century, lathes began to be individually equipped with economical electric motors. For mass production of steel, lathes are needed that provide high-quality processing of parts and high performance production. This demand stimulated improvements in machine design.

The development of the design of lathes led to the appearance of a step-pulley drive, which made it possible to regulate the number of spindle revolutions. The spindle itself and the lead screw began to be connected by means of a guitar of gears, which was later supplemented by a gearbox. The next improvement was the separation of the transmission of motion to the support from the roller (most turning operations) and the lead screw (thread cutting). Also added to the list of innovations is a modernized apron mechanism.

The advent of high-speed steel accelerated the process of improving lathes. Thanks to the new steel, the cutting speed has increased five times (if we compare the speed at which conventional carbon steel is processed). In order to increase the variety of feeds and increase the number of revolutions in lathes, rotation bearings replaced rolling bearings, and the gearbox in the machine became even more complicated. Also, realizing the importance of this issue, engineers developed automatic lubrication of machine parts.

DIY metal lathe: main components

The design of a homemade simple lathe, which allows processing workpieces, consists of the following parts: frame, driving and driven centers, tail and front headstocks, stop for the cutter and electric drive.

The role of the frame is to be a support for all elements and the frame of the equipment. The headstock is stationary and plays the role of a basis for placing the basic rotation unit.

The front frame contains a transmission mechanism connecting the driving center with the electric motor. The workpiece is rotated through the leading center. The tailstock can move parallel to the longitudinal axis of the frame. In accordance with the length of the future part, install the tailstock so as to firmly secure the end of the workpiece in the driven center.

Any drive is suitable for a lathe, but important parameter: power 800-1500 W. The fact is that the only problem low revs can still be solved using a transmission mechanism, but the engine power remains the same.

Although any electric motor, even a 200-watt one, can be used in a homemade lathe, it must be borne in mind that when processing large workpieces, a weak motor may overheat and the machine will stop. As a rule, rotation is transmitted using a belt drive; friction or chain drives are less commonly used.

For desktop machine Sometimes a design without a transmission system is used; the cartridge and drive center are mounted directly on the electric motor shaft.

The driven center must be placed on the same axis with the leading center; violation of this rule will lead to vibration of the workpiece.

Conditions that must be met: reliable fixation, precise alignment and stable rotation. In frontal machines, the workpiece is fixed using a jaw chuck or a faceplate; in such machines, one leading center is used.

Although the frame can be made from a piece of wood, it is usually assembled from steel angles or sections. The frame must provide rigid fastening of the driven and driving centers; when designing the frame, free movement of the headstock along the longitudinal axis of the machine, as well as the stop for the cutter, must be ensured.

After all the parts of your homemade machine are installed in the correct position, you need to firmly fix them. The purpose of the machine, the size and type of workpieces that are planned to be processed, determines the shape of the machine elements and the final dimensions of the installation. In addition, the type and power of the electric motor, which must create sufficient force to rotate the part, depends on the intended work. The motor parameters must be suitable for the expected load.

The most unsuitable for a lathe are commutator motors, which are characterized by an increase in the number of revolutions when the load drops. And in this case, a huge centrifugal force can lead to the fixed workpiece flying out, and this is very dangerous for those who are near the machine.

However, if you are sharpening small, lightweight parts, then you shouldn’t worry, and to prevent the workpiece from accelerating uncontrollably, you should use a gearbox for electric motors of this type.

When working with workpieces 0.7 meters long and 10 centimeters in diameter, the recommended motor type is asynchronous and power: 800 W. For electric drive of this type The shaft rotation speed is stable when there is a load, and when the load disappears and a large mass is harvested, there is no prohibitive increase in the rotation speed.

It should be taken into account that in self-built lathes there is always a force, the direction of which is along the shaft. If you do not use a belt drive, this will cause rapid destruction of the electric motor bearings, designed only for perpendicular loads.

So, if the motor shaft is directly connected to the driving center of the machine, the motor bearings will constantly be under a load that they were not designed to withstand. You can try to compensate for this longitudinal load, making a stop on the back side of the machine for the motor shaft (or, in some electric motor designs, you need to install a ball - an improvised bearing - in the rear part of the machine between the end of the shaft and the housing).

The driven center is located in the tailstock of the machine and can be stationary or rotating. The fixed center is made from the most ordinary bolt, in which the end of the thread is sharpened to a cone. An internal thread is cut into the hole in the headstock and by rotating a pointed bolt, you can fix the workpiece between centers.

This bolt has a stroke of 2-3 centimeters, and larger distances are set by shifting the tailstock along the axis of the machine. The driven center, in the form of a sharpened and ground bolt, should be lubricated with oil (machine oil) immediately before starting work. This will avoid smoke from the workpiece.

How to make a homemade metal lathe

Any craftsman can build a lathe on his own. Although it is homemade, this machine is reliable and easy to use. The owner of turning equipment will be able to grind or turn new parts, turn metal products, work with wood or plastic, make parts for car repairs, for their everyday life, or make souvenirs from wood.

At home, you can easily make your own lathe. It is easy to use and has quite a variety of functions. Due to the ease of replacing parts, the service life of such home equipment is very long.
Cut out two wooden posts and secure the bolts in them using nuts; the holes for the bolts should be of the required diameter, as well as the threads of the nuts.

To ensure stability of the chisel or cutter when the machine is operating, a tool rest is made for them. It is made of two boards connected with screws or glued together. The bottom board should have a beveled corner and a metal strip that protects the chisel from deformation during movement, and a slot should be made in the horizontal board to control and control the movement of the tool rest.

Now all that remains is to screw the workpiece with nuts, ensuring its secure fastening and freedom of movement, and your benchtop lathe is ready for use. The workpiece should be processed by rotating in both directions in order to obtain best shape details.

If you do not have a low-power electric motor (approximately 250-500 W), then for a homemade machine you can buy an inexpensive used electric motor, for example, a motor from sewing machine. Also, the most compact lathe can be made on the basis of an electric drill or grinder.

Headstocks, front and back are not difficult to make yourself, and if something is not clear, you can look at photographs of homemade machines. And the frame, in addition to a wooden block, can be made from a channel, angle or other grade of metal.

In everyday life, such a lathe is indispensable. If an abrasive or grinding wheel is mounted on the protruding section of the electric motor shaft, then on such a machine, in addition to turning parts, it will be possible to sharpen tools, as well as grind or polish surfaces. And if you attach the adapter and drill chuck in bulk, then your machine can be used for milling grooves or drilling holes in parts.

Thus, by making a metal lathe with your own hands, you will receive a universal assistant in household. The variety of ways to use such a machine encourages you to try your hand. Made independently, small lathes perfectly perform home-scale tasks such as turning parts or grinding them.

It’s quite easy to make a homemade metal lathe with your own hands, but first you need to understand what this equipment is.

The turning machine was invented many hundreds of years ago. Initially it was a manual equipment, but after going through many different upgrades, it has transformed and become easier to use.

Today, a lathe is an indispensable device in absolutely any production. Now you can meet various shapes and configurations of this equipment, which are intended for different purposes.

What is it used for?

A lathe can be used in production for various purposes. The main purposes of this equipment include:

• processing of end, internal and external bodies of rotation;
• thread.

Lathe processing is the most common method for producing various rotating bodies, such as disks, shafts or nuts. At this time, a change in the shape and size of the workpiece occurs due to the removal of the allowance. The machinability of a material depends on its structure, as well as physical and chemical properties.

Thread cutting on a lathe is done using a cutter. This tool is usually divided by specialists into 3 types:

• prismatic;
• rod;
• round.

But it is important to remember that threads can also be made on a lathe using taps and dies. The former help in the production of metric internal thread. And the latter are used for carving the outside of bolts and studs. The speed of performing this type of work using dies for steel products is less than five minutes.

Device

The lathe has a rather difficult structure. Its main element is the spindle. This is what experts usually call a hollow shaft made of steel, which has a cone-shaped hole. It is thanks to the latter that installation is carried out various instruments and mandrels.

The spindle has a special thread, which is primarily intended for attaching a faceplate for a lathe to it. Some types of this equipment have a special groove on this main element. It is with its help that such a danger as uncontrolled curling of the cartridge is eliminated.

The spindle is the main component of any lathe precisely because only thanks to it is it really possible high-quality processing any detail. Therefore, it is important to remember that the assembly in the radial and axial direction did not have any play, that is, a gap or gap between the mating parts.

The power of the lathe also depends on the spindle. The performance of this unit will be higher if its main element has a high power drive motor.

Another important component of a lathe is the support. It is this element that provides fixation cutting tool and its movement in different directions. There is a tool holder on it, which is also called the cutting head.

Do it yourself

Despite the fact that the lathe has a rather complex structure, you can make a lightweight version of it yourself without spending a lot of time and effort. It is also important that large material costs are not required.

Main components of the turning unit:

• headstocks (front and back);
• frame;
• drive;
• centers
• stop for cutting tool.

Please note: You can avoid vibrations while working on the machine if you place the centers of the device on the same axis.

When creating a machine, it is important to know that you cannot use a commutator type electric drive for it. This is strictly prohibited precisely because it is too powerful for home device, and during its use the element being processed may simply fly out of the clamps. This threatens to damage the device and can lead to various injuries.

Best for home machine An asynchronous drive is suitable. Its main advantage is that its rotation speed remains unchanged.

Caliper

As mentioned earlier, the lathe support is one of the components of this unit. It is used to fix the cutting tool, and a tool holder must also be installed on it.

Due to the wide variety of different electric motors today, it is quite difficult to choose the one that is exactly right. All drives are divided according to their power. For a homemade machine, as mentioned above, the best option will asynchronous electric motor, since it is he who does not change the rotation speed.

Drill machine

There are many in various ways self-creation lathe. Some people make this unit with their own hands from a drill. It is perfect for light turning work at home.

In order for this machine to more effectively perform its main tasks, it is necessary to secure the drill to the frame using a vice and a clamp that is fixed on the neck.

Important to remember: The frame of such a device must be heavy and have high strength.

To summarize, I would like to note that a home lathe can perform simple functions no worse than the one used in production, and its production will not require too much cost.

How to make a lathe with your own hands, see the following video: