Purchasing a new boat requires large financial expenses. For those who don't want to invest a large sum money to purchase this unit, there is another option - to make the boat yourself. A hand-made swimming device will complement the fishing process well.

Types of boats

The following types of swimming equipment exist:

• rubber;
• plastic;
• steel;
• wooden;
• from plywood.

Inflatable boats. In order to make such a boat you need rubber or polymer. The disadvantage of these devices is that they:

1. They do not balance on the water surface.
2. Not frost-resistant.
3. They are easily damaged, so cracks will have to be constantly patched.

Advantages:

• convenient carrying;
• compactness;
• convenient storage.

Plastic boats. At correct operation This type of swimming equipment will last more than ten years. There are boats different colors, with an attractive appearance.

Wooden boats. These boats are less durable when compared with plastic devices. For wooden material you need:

• constantly monitor;
• coat with moisture-repellent solutions.

Many anglers soak the boat in water before using it for better balance.

Plywood boats. This type belongs to wooden boats and is currently the most popular among the population.

Advantages:

1. Plywood repels moisture well.
2. Can withstand heavy loads.
3. Very strong material made.

The disadvantage of plywood is that it is difficult to bend.

Metal boats. In order to make this boat you need to use duralumin. This material is very durable and resistant to mechanical damage. Using stainless steel will make the boat very heavy and almost impossible to transport.

Making a wooden boat

By using wooden materials and knowledge of the nuances of making a swimming device can be obtained good result. Let's consider the entire production process of such a device in order.

Required tools and materials

To make a boat with your own hands, you need to purchase:

• boards;
• polyurethane glue;
• nails;
• latex-based paints;
• silicone sealant;
• syringe for sealing seams;
• sandpaper;
• jigsaw;
• paracord;
• clamp;
• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• drill;
• brushes for applying paint.

After all the tools have been purchased, you should prepare some materials. The board is divided into parts, as a result of which the following are suitable for the future bottom and base of the hull:

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1. Bite activator. Attracts fish in cold and warm water with the help of pheromones included in the composition and stimulates her appetite. It’s a pity that Rosprirodnadzor wants to impose a ban on its sale.
2. More sensitive gear. Reviews and instructions for other types of gear can be found on the pages of my website.
3. Lures using pheromones.

You can get the rest of the secrets of successful fishing for free by reading our other articles on the site.

1. One section measuring 460x610 mm;
2. The second section is 310x610 mm;
3. The third section is 610x1680 mm.

The side parts are made from parts 310x2440 mm. For supports, you should take small bars of 25x50x2400 mm, a total of three supports will be required. To create the bow, it is recommended to use timber, the size of which is 25x76x2400 mm.

To make a boat hull you need to take two bars measuring 25x50x2400 mm. You can fasten them using paracord, after cutting them into several sections.

Manufacturing of parts

In order to make parts, you must adhere to certain rules:

1. Use a disk saw to cut the boards into pieces.
2. If the wood is less than 1 cm thick, you can cut it with a stationery knife.
3. If the thickness of the board is from 2-6 cm, then the most correct solution would be to use a jigsaw.
4. To avoid the appearance of cracks in the material, it must be cut crosswise and weakening strips must be applied to top layer veneer

fasten wooden parts you can use:

• wires;
• self-tapping screws

If the board is fixed with self-tapping screws, you must not drive them into the material, as this may result in damage to the structure.

First you need to make a hole using a drill. the right size and then install the screw. When gluing parts, pay attention to the usage description adhesive base What is the drying time and working rules:

• stripping;
• degreasing;
• surface treatment.

It is worth not forgetting about the location of the fibers on the two parts of the tree. If they are placed in parallel, the strength of the product will increase several times. Damaged parts should not be used; they are defective and will not be suitable for building the boat.

Boat assembly

After preparing the required parts, you can begin assembling the wooden boat with your own hands. For this action you will need:

• nails;
• pins.

To collect wooden boat you need to:

1. Install the bottom and secure the left side.
2. Fix the stern on the left side to the bottom.
3. Set the right side to the bottom and stern.
4. Secure the nasal area.

To fix the boat with nails, you need to assemble it using an adhesive base. Once you are satisfied with the appearance, you should secure the joints with nails.

After the frame of the boat is made, it should be painted and polished. Finished product you need to start polishing from smaller roughness and uneven areas. For this process you need:

• sandpaper;
• grinding machine.

With the help silicone sealant All cracks that appeared during assembly should be sealed. In order to ensure that the boat dries evenly and completely, you should leave it on outdoors. After 24 hours you need to start coloring the product:

1. The first layer must be applied externally.
2. The second is inside.

After the paint has dried, you should paint again inner side boats.

Boat check

Before sailing a boat over a long distance, you need to check the quality of its assembly. To do this, you need to test the boat at shallow depths for minor defects. If they are identified, it is recommended to immediately work on the errors so as not to be afraid of further possible damage.

Making a wooden boat is a simple process. A home-made device will be no less attractive and will cost much less than a purchased one.

Installing a set of frame patterns on the slipway, checking their alignment.

Installing a finished transom glued from slats, removing the mold from it to ensure a tight fit of the boat hull skin. Gluing the support block under the fin to the transom.

Attaching the laminated stem, glued in advance from 4-5 layers of thin strips with epoxy, to the slipway, removing the mold from it to ensure a tight fit of the boat hull skin.

Sheathing the boat hull with a grooved boat plank. The construction of the boat hull starts from the sides to the keel. The plank is positioned with the groove up and the ridge down. In this case, an epoxy compound is applied into the groove using a syringe without a needle along the entire length without gaps so that the epoxy is slightly squeezed out when the planks are mated. The grooved wooden plank must be completely dry, pre-dried, because even dry wood has atmospheric humidity at any given time, and in our climate it is usually excessive for gluing a boat together. Under the slipway, to effectively set the epoxy, you have to turn on the heater, covering it with a light box covered with film at the end of the working day. If the original plank is not completely dried, then it performs poorly; when reheated, it may show a crack along the side, which forms at the moment when the epoxy has not yet set and the planks begin to dry out. Micro changes in the width of each plank are enough for them to develop a huge force along the entire generatrix of the boat hull in the transverse direction when drying out.

The plank is attached to each frame pattern with a thin nail without a head. We have this homemade nail, made from a thread of steel cable. Any construction nail much thicker and less bending strength. The nail is not driven deeply, only to fix the bar at a given point and position. The forming patterns are pre-covered with tape. The epoxy is partially squeezed out and into the boat hull, but gluing the strips to the patterns is unacceptable.

On the bottom of the boat, the set of planks occurs in a herringbone pattern. The end of each measured strip is cut at an individual angle, and also sharpened with a “comb” for mating and gluing into the groove of the opposite already fixed strip.

The set of the bottom of the boat is completed with a plank insert of the same thickness as the plank, but wider, cut out according to an approximate finished template and carefully fitted into the gap remaining at the end of the set. The edges of this board are also tucked under a semicircular ridge for inserting into the grooves of the entire perimeter.

Assembling and gluing the hull of a boat is not so much labor-intensive as it is very responsible and, along with fastening the sides, is one of those jobs that can only be done with four hands, two people. One needs to hold and bend the bar, inserting it into the groove, ensuring that the epoxy is squeezed out, the other needs to fasten it with a nail. A nail is simply inevitable here, no matter how sorry it would be to make holes in a beautiful plank. There is simply no other way to securely fasten a boat plank that bends with force. The nail holes are then carefully sealed and end up as inconspicuous rows of small spots slightly darker than the background of the wood.

The next day after gluing the boat hull is completed, the nails can be safely removed, but carefully, because wood tends to be embossed, pressed through, we don’t care final finishing The surface needs to be undamaged.

Gluing the keel from three thin strips from the transom and along the entire length of the stem. Before this, the gluing area is leveled, and the ends of the planks facing the stem are first roughly, and then carefully planed and scraped together with part of the stem to form a smooth strip of a certain width from the bottom to the very bow. It should be noted that not every plank is suitable for particularly bendable parts, just as not every initial blank board is suitable for cutting out a boat plank. Any curls, knots, or tarring are unacceptable. For strong bending, the location of the annual rings in the plank is also important, as well as purely individual, visually indeterminable properties of the sample.

Now you can finally free the surface of the boat from fasteners - nails. The glued boat remains rigidly standing on the template frames.

Sanding, sanding the outside of the boat hull to remove epoxy drips, rough leveling and rounding of the surface and all ribs, putty in places where the planks and minor defects are attached.

Final finishing and smoothing of the outside surface of the boat. Primer with liquid epoxy compound, slightly diluted with acetone. Epoxy pretty capricious material, may in some conditions stop hardening altogether, in particular when there is an overdose of acetone in the primer. The temperature regime during “acceleration” (kneading and the beginning of setting) and subsequent hardening of the epoxy composition is also very important. In any case, it is necessary to mix the epoxy composition heated to a certain temperature, which activates the reaction, but does not make it “uncontrollable” - the composition can simply overheat before our eyes and begin to rapidly harden.

Gluing fiberglass. We switched from grade 100 to 200 - fiberglass is a little more noticeable if you look closely at the finished boat, but it is much stronger than "weaving". When gluing fiberglass to the hull of the boat, in order to avoid folds and unevenness, you need to move gradually from the keel to the side and from the middle to the bows. Our practice has shown that it is much simpler and more technologically advanced to apply liquid epoxy over fiberglass with the same end result. With the correct dosage and temperature conditions The fiberglass fabric is completely saturated.

The fiberglass fabric is glued to the boat in two pieces, with a small and neat overlap (in two layers) on the keel. It is better to apply gluing using a brush, and dilute the epoxy quite a bit with a solvent until it reaches a paintable consistency. By the way, epoxy becomes more liquid even with a slight increase in temperature. But when applied to the surface, unfortunately, it immediately cools down and becomes too viscous to completely saturate the fiberglass. Therefore, in this case, a solvent is used.

It is necessary to smooth out the drips before the epoxy hardens, and it is also very useful to warm up the entire hull thoroughly by covering the boat with a cover box. Oddly enough, a good and convenient heater in this case is a regular hair dryer of sufficient power; you just need to slightly cover, partially seal, the air intake of the hair dryer. Under a cover that is not in contact with the boat hull, a hair dryer allows you to heat the curing epoxy to desired temperature and make this heating uniform due to the effective circulation of heated air. Heating allows you to “disperse” the epoxy and drive the solvent out of it. Immediately after a short warm-up, the hull of the boat must be carefully examined and ironed with a soft (preferably polyethylene) spatula - unacceptable bubbles may form under the fiberglass, especially if it has not been primed very well beforehand.

Trimming the edges of the fiberglass and sequentially applying 2 layers of epoxy (each is smoothed several times and sanded when set). It is not possible to apply more than one layer per day; the curing time of epoxy resin is about 12 hours.

How to make a wooden punt boat with your own hands for small trips on reservoirs. Let's focus on a small model that can be transported in the trunk of a car or in a car trailer.

Characteristics of the boat:

• length, m, 2.918;
• width, m, 1.052;
• height, m, 0.400;
• material, wood and plywood;
• propulsion, oar and motor (low-power, no more than two horsepower, petrol or electric).

Front view

Rear view

Side view

Top view

Bottom view

Detailing of a wooden punt boat:

1. Central bar
2. Frames
3. Nose element
4. Stern
5. Seats
6. Deck

To make the boat we will use plywood of the following brands: FBS; BS; FB, which contains bakelite glue. These grades of material have very high performance moisture resistance and strength. Plywood is produced following types sizes АхВхС.

Where:
A– thickness – 5; 7; 10; 12; 14; 16; 18 (mm);
IN– width – 1508 (mm);
WITH– length – 5300; 5600 (mm);
Material density – 1200 (kg/m³).

The central beam, frames, bow element, stern, seats are made from plywood eighteen millimeters thick.
The sides are made from plywood ten millimeters thick.
The bottom and deck are made of plywood five millimeters thick.

Assembly order

We fix six frames on the slipway table. From above we insert the central block with grooves onto the frames. We fix the nose element. We secure the stern.

We install spacers between the top edges of each frame. Spacers are necessary to provide structural strength during the assembly of the sides. We attach the left and right sides to the frames. In order for a plywood piece to bend easily, two conditions must be met: moisture and heat, therefore it must be heated with steam or hot water.

We fasten the bottom to the sides with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

We fasten the seats and remove the spacers. We attach the seats to bars screwed to the sides.

We secure the deck. The deck is secured around the entire perimeter with self-tapping screws and a press washer.

ADVIСE:

1. We fasten the boat parts together with universal self-tapping screws of different lengths.
2. To ensure the waterproofness of the boat, the joints of the structure must be lubricated with glue (VIAM-B\Z).
3. On the outside, we recommend taping the seams with waterproof material.
4. Screw the bottom with screws at intervals of forty centimeters.
5. You can put it on the bottom of the boat wooden gratings, which will rest on the frames.
6. Before painting, the boat must be coated with primer. The easiest way is to cover it with drying oil heated to a boil. Apply the primer both outside and inside.
7. After the drying oil has dried, apply bright colors various colors and shades. We dilute the paint to liquid state, in order to apply it to the surface of the boat two or three times.
8. Coating plywood with nitro paints is not recommended. High-quality surface coating is the key to the durability of your product.

The proposed model, made with your own hands, can comfortably accommodate two fishermen.
As you can see, the proposed model is easy to manufacture, only thirteen assembly units and three types of thicknesses of the material used.

DIY projects.
Sailing yachts

"Natalie"	Cruising dinghy 5.9m, for recreation and tourism.
"Crucian 500"	Small cruising dinghy 5m long
"Fox 500"	Light yacht 5m long with deckhouse - shelter.
"Natalie600"	Trailer boat made of plywood with a radius chine, 6m long.
"Natalie 695"	Tourist dinghy 6.95m for recreation and tourism.
"Altruist"	Small family 4.88m yacht
"Natalie 800M"	Trailer cruising dinghy 8 m long, latrine, galley 4-5 berths.
"Natalie 850"	Cruiser, dinghy, 8.5m long, with all amenities.
"Anastasia 590"	Cruiser 5.9m with all amenities
"Natalie 700"	A family cruiser, 7m long, with all the amenities, a compromise.
"Natalie 625"	Cruising dinghy 6-6.25m long
"Natalie 460"	Small dinghy, 4.6m long
"Natalie 850"	The yacht is 8.5m long, with a radial bilge.

Motor boats and boats made of plywood.

Cost of projects

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The type of boat hull determines the type of propeller that is needed to ensure proper operation of a boat of this design in a pond.
There are two main types of carcasses: the movement type and the sliding type.

Sailing ships are relatively slow. They are supported by the mass of water they remove (i.e. static water pressure). Their design features a slightly oriented or rounded feed shape and a sharp or rounded nose shape.

They sit deep in the water, like ocean ships. During operation, the propellers on these boats are completely submerged in the water and have a significantly smaller pitch.

Plane-type aircraft that contain the majority of a recreational vessel operating at low speeds (less than 10 kilometers per hour) as well as a moving hull type.

With sufficient power, these vessels are mounted on the surface of the water and operate in sliding, floating and dynamic pressure (rotation speed) modes of supported water. Skate boat types tend to be larger fleet and more efficient than moving hull boats.

Their design differs from the shear design as their wide trans is essentially under acute angle at the base of the boat. The propellers on such ships are often not fully submerged, and with this expansion to the upper speed range comes increased buoyancy and stability, as well as greater propeller pitch and blade angle.

Below is a description of typical housing models for use with external motors and other feed systems.

Example with stepped bottom

In general, an example of a stepped design is the keel body version (with a V-shaped bottom).

This housing design causes cavitation on work surface boats due to the numerous side stairs at the junction with the bottom. Cavitation in the area of ​​lower contact with the water surface reduces braking, which leads to an increase in boat speed.

Kiel (V-shaped) bottom

At this time, the most common lower type of boat design allows for a good degree of combined with a softer turning ability of the boat, which depends on the angle of the V-shaped bottom (the so-called "deadrise angle"), the radius or shape of the keel line and the surface of the dog boat.

To increase the upper speed limit with a slight loss of softness, smoothness, the sharp keel at the end of the lower part moves from bow to stern in the reference plane (in cross section) trapezoidal shape [arrow shown, shaded area that extends in the plane of the bow to the stern of the keel (top view)].

To get the desired performance, each boat manufacturer has a different way of deciding on the number of stripes and exactly how they move back (to trans).

The more belts, the higher the lift of the boat from the water and the trimmer along the road, but the progress of the vessel is somewhat more difficult.

Catamaran hull

This form is most popular among competitive sports enthusiasts.

Its bottom differs from the bottom of old catamarans because it is quite sharp. internal corners(between the bottom and walls of the tunnel). It gives you extremely sharp turns/turns on high speeds with a very smooth and soft ride. However, at low speeds some ships with this body structure experience handling problems.

Double catamaran hull

This is a combination of a small keel bottom with two identical tunnels on either side of the central nacelle.

The performance data at the higher speed boundary is generally higher compared with the real body locust, but it is associated with the "rough" path in the turbulent water tank and the lower lifting capacity compared with the conventional V-bottom.

"3-body", arched design

These bodies usually have a keel bottom with additional side pads on both sides; Between the keel and the darkness there are two vaults.

Often these arches are more pronounced in the nose. The advantage of this case is greater stability, especially at rest. The downside is the uneven course with jumps in choppy water.

Flat bottom housing

The flat bottom of a boat from side to bottom without a keel is called a flat bottom.

The plane of intersection of the bottom with the side walls (sides) may have a so-called “bell”. The chimney can be rectangular, sharp (“solid”) or semicircular, rounded (“soft”).

pontoon

The pontoon design has a flat bottom that is supported by two or three pontoons, usually made of aluminum.

This design allows maximum use of the useful surface of the floating object. Pontoons simply move into the water at operating speed, but the front parts must be shaped accordingly.

Boat bottom shape

To reach maximum speed, the bottom of the boat should be as straight as possible in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern for approximately the last 5 feet (1.5 m).

In addition, the angle between the bottom and the trench must be sharp enough to achieve maximum speed and reduce slipping.

The bottom is called "hollow" if it is concave in the longitudinal direction of the axis from bow to stern in side view. The concern determines greater drag at the stern (in the stern) and leads to a lowering of the bow (bow trim).

How to make a boat from boards with your own hands

This increases the wetted area and reduces the speed of the boat, but at the same time promotes gliding and reduces the tilt of the boat for the "dolphin" "Kozlenev" (rhythmic bounce). Often during boat construction, concavity is special.

However, concavity can be caused, for example, by improperly transporting the boat on a trailer or by insufficient storage if there is no support directly under the diameter.

The "rocking chair" is the exact opposite of "swaggering."

The bottom of the boat is convex in the longitudinal axial direction from bow to stern in the side view. Along the way, the convexity of the bottom may be a consequence of “goat”, “dolphinization”.

Concavity and convexity is a multi-faceted area and, most importantly, the area from the center to the rear (called the critical zone at the bottom) has a negative effect on the speed of the boat, often resulting in a decrease in speed to high performance boats, several kilometers per hour.

Installations with one or more motors

On single engine units, right-hand drive units are almost always installed.

It is simply a gift of tradition, but nevertheless it persists with the practice of pleasure craft makers. In this case, the control panel is located with right side boats to compensate for the roll caused by proper rotation of the propeller.

This controls the steering cylinder in both directions when PLA or other propulsion system manage equally hydraulic system with trimming. Most ship manufacturers prefer to rotate the propeller "outside" the propeller in the opposite direction from center on both sides, in other words, turning the starboard PLA and the port PLC counterclockwise; while it is assumed that routing is, in general, although not very, an improvement.

In addition, this provides more balanced control in the power operation of only one of the two engines.

Many older people with dual outboards with boats use propellers that spin in the same direction. The disadvantages of such a system include an increase in steering torque at large angles, both up and down (on boats without power steering), as well as (for example) slight stern drift in right time"When the force of the two propellers of a boat in very rough water" makes "the hull float on the surface and literally float like air chambers."

Punts of our rivers

Once upon a time, the shores of lakes and ponds were completely strewn with wooden boats of various sizes and designs. Of course, there were rubber ones, but there were few of them and they served patched and patched for many years. It was even rarer to find duralumin products produced in small batches at that time.

Punts of our rivers

Those times have sunk into oblivion, and with them the good old traditions of construction simple boats by the hunters and fishermen themselves. Now inflatable boats have firmly taken their place. They turned out to be more mobile, lighter and more convenient.

True, in some places remote from large settlements, you can also see those made by yourself. So I've been using it for many years.

The boat, equipped with one loose oar, with a sharp wedge-shaped bow, strong wooden sides, is excellent for moving both along narrow rivers and through dense thickets of reeds, which allows it to be successfully used for fishing and hunting.

Such boats were generally built according to a single principle, but in different regions they had a number of features. For example, some had a wooden bottom, others rubber, and still others tin.

If for some reason you need just one, then you can make it yourself at home. There is nothing complicated in making it, although the first time it may not turn out exactly what you would like.

Preparation of material

So let's begin. Before construction begins, you need to take care of its most important parts - the sides. For this purpose, long, wide, not thick, preferably without knots, pine or spruce boards are selected. They must lie for at least one year in a dry place, on flat surface with slight pressure from above to avoid their bending.

We inspect the prepared boards again for defects - cracks, falling knots, etc. Then we measure the required length (here, as well as further, specific dimensions of the parts of the boat will not be given, since all this is at your discretion) with a small margin and file each of them at an angle of 45 degrees - this will be the bow part.

Next, they need to be planed and chamfered from the sawn ends so that the boards pressed against each other in the bow do not have a gap.
We impregnate these areas, and subsequently all others that will not be available for painting after assembling the structure. protective layer antiseptic.

After this, we proceed to making the base of the nose - a triangular block. Its length should exceed approximately 1.5 times the width of the sides of the boat. The timber is also planed and covered with a protective layer.

Don't forget to leave a margin at the top and bottom, then after assembly, all excess will be cut off.

Initial assembly stage

Having prepared these elements, we proceed directly to assembly. We start from the bow, firmly connect both sides and the triangular block with screws or nails.

We cut off the protruding parts at the top and bottom flush with the sides.

It must be exactly the same height as shown in the photo, otherwise the boards may burst during bending. The spacer angle should also not be made too large.

Having installed the spacer, we begin to bend the sides; here you will need a couple of assistants or a rope. Having bent to the required distance, we apply the “back” and determine where and how much to chamfer so that the sides adhere to it without gaps.

So, removing it little by little, we adjust it until we achieve the desired result.

Having achieved it, we nail down the sides and cut off the protruding parts from below, and from above as you wish. I made it in the shape of a triangle.

Then we proceed to install the permanent braces and seats. Their number and location is at your discretion. When fixing them (and in general, in other places), be sure to first make a hole with a small drill in order to avoid the appearance of cracks.

We complete the very important initial stage by chamfering the bottom of the sides, spacers and applying a protective coating to them.

See the next part for the continuation of construction.

A punt boat is a traditional fishing craft that appeared long before keel analogues made of PVC and aluminum. Convenient and quite simple, it was used not only for fishing - it was used to transport bulky cargo and people through the water. Despite the appearance large quantity models of inflatable boats, the punt has not lost its popularity even today. One of the reasons for this is the fact that such a watercraft can not only be purchased, but also made with your own hands.

More details about what a punt is, what it consists of and what types there are, what its pros and cons are, as well as how to make such a boat yourself will be discussed in this article.

Device

The craft consists of the following:

• of two sides (right and left) up to 60–70 cm high;
• flat bottom, reinforced with longitudinal or transverse stiffeners (lamellas);
• rectangular stern (transom).

To transport people and control the boat, 2–3 benches (banks) are attached between its sides. Various fishing accessories are stored in a box with a locking lid mounted on the stern. Depending on how many people are planned to be transported by boat. Its length varies from 2 to 4 meters with a width of 1.0–1.2 meters.

Majority modern models They have a pointed or narrowed shape of the bow, due to which such a boat acquires better maneuverability and speed of movement (especially against the current), and has less windage in strong headwinds.

You can move around on a punt either with the help of oars or with mounted screw or water-jet engines mounted on the stern.

Species

Depending on the material used to make the punt, they come in the following types:
Wooden is the classic version of this boat. Wooden boats are made independently from boards coniferous species(spruce, pine), plywood. The disadvantage of such watercraft is their considerable weight, which is why fishermen who do not have a car with a trailer use such a boat only on a nearby body of water.

A wooden boat must be made from boards with a moisture content of no more than 16%, without cracks or falling knots

Plastic - lightweight and durable factory boats with a one-piece structure made of durable and impact-resistant polypropylene, fiberglass, and ABS plastic. It is impossible to make such a boat yourself. Its price, compared to inflatable analogues, is slightly lower. The disadvantage of such a boat is its fragility when low temperatures and very complex DIY repairs.

Plastic models should be used only in the warm season - in cold weather and frosts their body becomes fragile and is easily damaged

Metal – such boats are made from aluminum and duralumin. In terms of strength and weight, such boats are the “golden mean” between wooden and plastic models. Having low weight and constant strength of the body material, independent of air and water temperature, they can be used freely throughout the entire open water season.

Aluminum punt boat is not suitable for sea navigation – lightweight design easily capsized by a large wave

Advantages and Disadvantages

If you ask yourself which boat is better - a keel or a flat bottom - then the latter has a number of advantages, such as:

• Stability - due to the large area of ​​​​contact between the craft and the water, a flat-bottomed boat is more resistant to side waves and wind compared to its keel counterpart;
• High maneuverability and carrying capacity - having a shallow draft, such boats allow you to transport up to 5-6 people with a length of 4 m, while moving through shallow water areas;

Just a note. By installing an outboard screw motor-swamp vehicle on a punt, you can navigate through overgrown and silted bays and swamps. The design of the unit and the material used to make its propeller allow it to chop up grass that gets in its way and not get clogged with dirt.

• Light weight - plastic and aluminum punts weigh significantly less than wooden and some inflatable boats;
• Ease of manufacture - you can make a punt with your own hands with a minimal set of tools and materials. The cost of such a watercraft will be significantly lower than the factory model.

The main disadvantage of such a boat is its low maneuverability and speed compared to keel boats.

Thanks to its shallow draft, the punt's maneuverability in shallow waters is higher than that of any boat or keelboat

Making a punt with your own hands

Assembling a punt with your own hands includes drawing up drawings, purchasing materials, preparing necessary tools, manufacturing the bottom, sides, stern from boards, fastening them and treating the structure against rotting with antiseptics and resin.

Materials and tools

Required tools:

• Jigsaw.
• Roulette.
• Square.
• Marker.
• Hammer.
• Screwdriver.

The materials required are dry spruce or pine boards 25–30 mm thick, bars with a cross section of 50×50 mm, nails or galvanized screws, resin, tow, waterproof paint.

Drawing up a drawing

In order to build a punt boat from planks yourself, you must first of all make clear and visual drawings (project) of its main parts: the sides, bottom, stern (transom). Based on the drawings, the need for materials is calculated: boards, plywood, bars for the frame and lamellas.

The drawing of a flat-bottomed boat should be visual and understandable - an error in dimensions during the manufacture of the watercraft will lead to a decrease in its tightness and maneuverability.

Making the bottom

Several boards are placed tightly to each other, and the contour of the bottom is drawn on them with a marker according to the dimensions of the drawing. 5 crossbars are made from the bars, the length of which is equal to the width of the bottom in the middle, stern and bow parts. The laid boards are sewn together in the middle using the longest crossbar, after which using a jigsaw or manual circular saw the bottom is cut out along the outlined contour, leaving uncut areas at the bow and stern.

In the bow and stern parts, the bottom blank is additionally fixed with boards and nylon cord

By tightening the bottom with crossbars, we achieve minimal gaps between its boards

Installation of bow and stern boards

After the bottom is cut to the bow using rough nails or self-tapping screws, a block - the bow board - is attached at a close to right angle. Then several boards are attached to the rear of the bottom, from which the stern (transom) is formed.

Close to right angle fastening the bow board will allow you to evenly distribute the force of the oncoming flow of water acting on the bow as the boat moves

Fastening to the bottom of the sides

The first two boards on the right and left sides are first nailed to the bow board, then bent along the contour of the bottom and tied together with a strong cord at the stern. After this, they are attached to the ends of the bottom with nails.

When attaching the first boards of the sides, it is better to fix them at the stern with a strong nylon cord

To fasten subsequent boards parallel to the crossbars, bulkheads are nailed to the bottom.

To prevent the sides from moving, the boards of the starboard and port sides are nailed to the bulkheads at the same time, without first assembling the starboard or port side completely.

With a boat length of 3.5–4 meters, it is necessary to have at least 2 bulkheads to which the side boards are sewn

Treatment of the bottom and sides

All cracks in the bottom and between the side boards are caulked with tow. To protect the wood of the bottom from rotting, as well as to prevent leaks, the bottom and sides are well coated with resin.

Flat-bottomed plywood boat

A ring for a chain or mooring rope is installed in the bow.

A flat-bottomed boat can be made not only from boards, but also from moisture-resistant plywood of the FBS or FSF brands.

A punt boat is made from plywood using a simpler technology than its analogue from boards. First, two sides 30–40 cm high in the form of rectangular trapezoids, a rectangular stern and a bow are cut out of a sheet of plywood using a jigsaw. Then, using special glue, first the right side, then the stern, the left side, and the bow are attached to a whole sheet of plywood (bottom). In this case, the stern part is attached to the bottom at a right angle, and the bow part at an obtuse angle (120–130°). All elements, in addition to glue, are fastened together and the bottom with bars located inside the craft. After assembly, the outside of the boat is coated with two layers of waterproof paint or resin.

Such a boat, compared to one made from boards, has such advantages as light weight, low costs for purchasing materials, and ease of manufacture.

The following video will tell you more about how such a punt boat is made with your own hands:

Just a note. Punts are not only homemade, but also factory-made. Among them, such models as “SAVA” 270, “SAVA” 370, Liman”, “Tortilla-2”, “Kazanka 6M” are popular. The cost of budget boats is 18,000–20,000 rubles, while the purchase of more spacious premium models will cost 25,000–30,000 rubles.

Thus, a punt boat is a watercraft slightly inferior in its characteristics to keelboats. It is made from both boards and moisture-resistant plywood. Except homemade boats, available for sale large selection factory models of punts made of plastic and aluminum.