If you plant trees too close to each other or try to “make friends” of incompatible crops, the garden will not produce fruit. decent harvest. Read our article on how to avoid this.

Let's talk about what factors should be considered when placing trees in the garden.

What plants can be planted nearby?

This is perhaps one of the most important points, which should be clarified before planting seedlings. Plant compatibility is called allelopathy. It can be both negative and positive.

The best compatibility of fruit trees will be achieved if plants of the same type are planted nearby: apple trees with apple trees, pear trees with pears, cherries with cherries. But such a garden of the same type will look quite boring. And that's why trees grow in our gardens different types, which are important to plant correctly. For example, a pear will feel great next to an apple tree and red rowan, while a cherry or peach will cause it a lot of inconvenience.

In the case of positive allelopathy, trees in the garden can not only exist safely in the neighborhood, but also be mutually useful. Therefore, before planning planting in the garden, it is recommended to check the compatibility table of various crops.

The worst thing to do is get along with your “neighbors” in the garden. walnut. This tree is considered toxic and can inhibit almost all fruit crops. Therefore, if you are going to have such a plant in your garden, find a place for it on the outskirts of the site, where it will not disturb anyone.

How to make a tree planting plan?

Choosing a site for the garden

Most trees prefer to grow in full sun. Therefore, the garden should be located so that light-loving crops (apricot, pear, peach, plum, cherry, apple tree) are located on the south or southwest side of the site. This is where they will grow and bear fruit best.

If the area allocated for planting trees on your site is small, the plants should be placed in stages: short ones on the south side, tall ones closer to the north.

Garden styles

When drawing up a garden plan, the first step is to decide in what pattern the trees will be planted. Highlight 2 main garden styles:

1. regular (geometric),
2. landscape (natural).

When planning regular garden, crops must be positioned so that they form symmetrical shapes (squares or rectangles). It is advisable to “arrange” the trees in a row so that straight paths can be laid between them. It is permissible to place plants on the site and in checkerboard pattern- so they will get more sunlight.

If the site is on a hill, then the rows of trees should be placed across the slope.

Landscape style looks more natural - trees grow chaotically in nature. That is, you can place crops the way you want (taking into account the compatibility of plants and other factors affecting their successful growth). This method of planting fruit crops is suitable for uneven areas, with depressions and mounds, since such “flaws” in the relief will create the illusion of a natural composition.

Selection of types and varieties of fruit trees

Once you have decided on the location of the trees and the planting pattern, you should think about how many and what kind of plants should be planted. The best way to do this is to draw rough plan plot with all buildings and large objects. Selection of species and varieties garden crops must be carried out under the condition that they can pollinate each other.

For example, if you are planting apple trees, make sure that more than half of the seedlings are winter varieties. Their fruits will subsequently be stored until spring or even early summer.

Harvest ripening time is also important criterion. It is advisable to plant varieties with different ripening periods - this will extend the harvest period.

Distance between trees

In order for crops to have enough space for harmonious development, they must be planted at a certain distance from each other, as well as from buildings. Thus, cherries and plums should not be located closer than 3 m from the boundaries of the site (as well as from fences and buildings). It is advisable to plant apple and pear trees even further away from them.

The distance between rows of trees grafted onto tall rootstocks should be on average about 5-6 m. In the rows between crops, a gap of 4-5 m should be left. If fruit crops are planted closer, they will begin to stretch ahead of time (they will stretch towards the sun ), their productivity will decrease, and the quality of the crop will deteriorate.

If you plan to plant trees with a small crown, the distance between them can be reduced by 0.5-1 m. When placing fruit trees and berry bushes mixed, the distance between crops in rows should be increased by 1-2 m, and between rows by 1-1 m. 1.5 m.

Culture	Row spacing (m)	Distance between plants in a row (m)
Apricot	5-6	3-4
Quince	5-6	3-4
Tall cherry	4-5	3-4
Low growing cherry	3-4	2,5-3
Pear on a vigorous rootstock	6-8	4-6
Pear on a weak growing rootstock	4-5	1,5-2,5
Sea ​​buckthorn	2,5-3	2-2,5
Walnut	6-8	4-5
Peach	5-6	3-4
Tall plum	4-5	3-4
Low growing plum	3-4	2,5-3
Apple tree on a vigorous rootstock	6-8	4-6
Apple tree on a weak-growing rootstock	4-5	1,5-2,5

When to plant trees: autumn or spring?

Typically, trees are planted or replanted only when they are dormant: in spring or autumn. In summer, such a procedure is unsafe, since the plants are in the midst of the growing season. And if a young tree is disturbed at this time, then after suffering stress it risks getting sick or even dying. How to determine which season is the right time to plant trees? The choice depends on the climate zone.

Region	Tree planting time
Southern regions	Trees are planted in autumn. Seedlings planted in spring risk not having time to take root before the onset of hot weather. Therefore, they can get bark burns or die from lack of moisture in the soil.
Central regions	Trees can be planted as in the spring, so in autumn. Regardless of the time of planting, the result will be approximately the same: temperate climate seedlings of fruit crops will take root safely.
Northern regions	Trees are planted in the spring. Not too hot spring and summer will allow the plants to adapt and go into winter dormancy in a timely manner. Fruit crops planted in the fall, on the contrary, will not be able to acclimatize in time and will die with the onset of the first frost.

How many trees should I plant in the garden?

Usually, each gardener decides this individually, based on the size of the plot and his needs. But on average, to provide fruits for a family of 3-4 people, it is recommended to plant:

• 3 apple trees of winter varieties;
• 2 apple trees of autumn varieties;
• 2 summer apple trees;
• 2 pears;
• 4 cherries;
• 4 plums (or 2 plums and 2 cherry plums).

Now that the plan for planting trees in the garden has been drawn up taking into account all the nuances, it’s time to start planting an orchard.

New gardeners... Some people quite sincerely want to satisfy their innate craving for land with at least four hundred square meters, and those who are richer are even exchanging city apartments for individual houses outside the city.

In any case, both of them plant fruit trees and shrubs in their “palestines” (“...he saw gooseberries everywhere”), but it doesn’t always work out.

Let's see why: after all, there are simple rules that a new landowner may simply not know or not pay attention to. In vain!

First, where to plant.

We prepare holes for replanting in the fall in the summer, 2 months in advance, for spring - in the fall. The shape of the hole does not matter. About the sizes a little later, when we talk more specifically. And if the groundwater is closer than 50 cm, we don’t dig holes at all. Directly onto the surface of the soil, pour a layer of drainage (10 cm), a mound of fertilized soil (on average 1/3 cubic meter, depending on the volume of the roots), spread the roots over it, after driving a stake into the center, cover the roots with soil, tie the stem to the stake and we knead the ground: our seedling sits on a “mound” approximately 35 cm high.

Age of seedlings

All shrub seedlings can be taken as one-year-olds. Currants in the fall - even cuttings rooted this summer. But fruit trees - preferably three years old, so they will take root more reliably.

If you are going to plant them immediately (within days), it doesn’t really matter whether you take a seedling with an open root system or in a container. Moreover, the first ones will definitely be cheaper. And if you can’t plant it right away, the container option is, of course, preferable. And in general: you can transfer a seedling from a container into a prepared hole throughout the entire season, in the middle of summer - in cloudy, cool weather.

Immediately before planting, it is advisable to dip a seedling with ACS with its roots into a clay mash, or if in a container, pour it well, after two hours remove it from the container, and before planting, use a not very sharp stick to “stir” the surface of the earthen clod. We tie such seedlings to two stakes, driving them into the edges of the hole in the shape of the letter “X”.

Now - what to plant when.

Both trees and shrubs are planted in a dormant state, in spring or autumn. Bushes are by nature more resilient (with the exception of some capricious ones) than trees; they can be planted in the spring, when the leaves have just begun to unfurl.

Trees are less flexible, so it is safer to plant them in the fall. And in the spring, from the moment the soil thaws until the buds begin to bloom, you only have about ten days! You're doing well, deadlines are running out - it's better to plant in the fall without any fuss.

At the dacha

All the main things that will be said below apply to medium soils with low groundwater levels.

A few more words about pits. In general, it’s clear that for large trees it’s deeper: apple and pear on a vigorous rootstock 1 x 1 x 0.8 m, on a dwarf rootstock - 0.8 x 0.8 x 0.6 m. About the same for cherries and plums.

For most bushes, holes 0.6 x 0.6 x 0.4 m are sufficient, and for raspberries it is generally good to make a trench three spade bayonets deep and 2.5 bayonets wide, put a layer of stakes as thick as your hand on the bottom, sprinkle them on your palm with rotted manure, fill the trench to the top with surrounding soil and plant the bushes here in a line, 5-7 trunks per bush every 70 cm.

And one thing general rule- the heavier and damper the soil, the thicker the drainage layer should be at the bottom

And if the groundwater is borderline close and the soil is heavy, they do this for pits of large trees. From the pit, three rays extend grooves one and a half bayonets wide and as deep as the bottom of the pit, and 2-3 meters long. Fachines from bundles of thin (as thick as a leg) trunks are placed in them and covered with earth. Such drainage in the wet season will prevent the tree from “choking.”

Remember that when planting most crops, they cannot be buried below the root collar. If possible (currants, gooseberries), this is always specifically stated. A slat placed across the hole will help a novice gardener avoid mistakes.

What are you talking about?

Well, when talking about landings, how can we not talk about?

And there’s nothing special to say; the shrub is perhaps the easiest to “use.” Just remember about the thorns: maintain 1.2 m between bushes in a row, and 1.6 m between rows. Otherwise, the plantation of your favorite berry will have to be processed while wearing armor.

Currants will also tolerate close proximity to groundwater. And the main rule: the cleaner the bushes, the more berries. Raspberries need sun, space and as loose soil as possible. Grapes need a lot of things, but the most important thing is the proximity of the southern wall of the building and a curtain made of something from the north wind.

Stone fruits will never really bear fruit in acidic soils, and blueberries will not produce a single berry in alkaline soils. And for apple trees, slightly acidic or neutral soils are preferred.

When planting apple or pear trees, force yourself to plant them no closer than 3 m from each other, otherwise after 5 years the crowns will begin to close together. In general, every culture has its own flavor. Which must be chewed!

© Dmitry VOLKOV, St. Petersburg

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Where to start creating your garden? How to properly arrange trees and shrubs in your dacha?

The garden has always been considered a wonderful decoration for any home. And one of the wonders of the world - the Hanging Gardens of Babylon - was a truly magnificent and unique creation. Several thousand slaves tended these gardens around the clock. Nowadays, gardens are planted mainly to provide oneself with berries and fruits for the winter. It is very important to plan the garden correctly, since small area land, you want to place as many different trees, shrubs, berries, etc. as possible. The productivity of fruit trees depends on various factors, and therefore, when placing trees on a plot, it is necessary to take into account not only natural conditions, but also biological features each type of fruit crop.

❧ The Mesopotamian king of Uruk, Gilgamesh (early 3rd millennium BC), was famous for his gardens. The courtyards were shady and had many flower beds. Fruit trees the gardens abounded in a variety of exotic varieties. Surrounded by date palms there were swimming pools. Bulls, lions, ostriches and monkeys were bred in enclosures in the far corners of the gardens.

So, for example, when placing trees in a garden plot, you must remember that different crops have different different requirements to the light. There is a general rule for planning plants for summer cottage. Plant height should increase from south to north. In other words, in the southernmost part of the site you need to plant vegetable crops and strawberries, and in the north - apple trees and pears. In the middle of the plot, medium-sized species such as cherry, plum, and a variety of berry bushes are placed.

In addition, when planting various fruit crops on your summer cottage, you should pay attention to ensure that in the future, when the trees grow, they do not shade neighboring garden plots. When planting trees on the site, observe certain rules- so, the distance from the trees to the boundaries of the site should be at least 3 m. And at a distance of 1 m from the border (fence), you can plant several raspberry, currant or gooseberry bushes. These crops do well even in partial shade.

Among other things, you need to place the plantings on the site in such a way that they do not interfere with air movement. If the area is too densely planted with trees, this will interfere with the outflow of cold air, which in turn will lead to difficult wintering conditions for the trees. It often happens that in densely planted areas, trees and shrubs die from frost even in not the frostiest winters.

There are two main styles of garden planning: regular (or geometric) and landscape (or natural).

With regular garden planning, plantings are placed symmetrically with respect to the main axis of the composition, while the straightness of rows and paths is also maintained, and equal distances between trees of the same type are maintained. In this case, you can choose a pattern for planting fruit trees, either square or rectangular, or even place trees on the site in a checkerboard pattern. Trees planted in a checkerboard pattern make good use of sunlight. If the site is located on a slope, then the direction of the rows should be made across the slope. The square pattern is suitable for areas that are square or nearly square in shape. Rectangular placement is suitable for areas that have an oblong configuration. There is also a variation of the rectangular pattern. It is characterized by wide-row dense planting of plants, and in contrast to the rectangular scheme, trees are planted more densely in rows, but a fairly large space is left between the rows.

If you prefer the natural style, when plants grow as they wish, then the second planting style is suitable for you - landscape. Using this diagram, you can place the plantings on your site the way you want. Trees and plants arranged in a free-style area make the area more attractive. In addition, the use of landscape style involves the widespread use of a variety of ornamental plants. Landscape style is very well suited for those areas that have natural unevenness, small slopes and depressions, etc. All these relief features can be used to create an interesting landscape composition in your garden plot.

When thinking about what fruit trees you will plant on your site, you should pay attention special attention apple tree In Russia, the apple tree is perhaps the main fruit crop, which is unpretentious to weather conditions and gives a rich harvest.

When choosing varieties of fruit trees, you should take into account the fact that a certain variety of a particular species can be grown on the site only on the condition that trees of other varieties grow nearby at a distance of no more than 50-70 m. Otherwise, pollination and fruit set will not occur in trees of the same variety.

When choosing berry crops, you can pay attention to such berries as garden strawberries, colloquially called strawberries, black, red and white currant, gooseberries, and raspberries. Strawberries are good because they reproduce easily and begin to bear fruit in the second year after planting. Currants, especially black currants, are very rich in vitamins, and therefore several bushes of this crop should grow in every garden plot. Raspberries also grow quite quickly, so if you want to get a harvest of berries as soon as possible after setting up a garden, then start with these crops. And if we talk about the volumes of the harvest, then the richest harvest is harvested from red currant and gooseberry bushes.

❧ Scientists have found that fruit trees that grew near heating mains develop faster and better, unlike trees of the same species and varieties that grow in other places. I wonder if it is possible to grow a garden that will produce a rich harvest in short term, if you install a root heating system?

When planting a variety of berry crops in a garden plot, you should remember that they can be placed under trees only when the fruit tree seedlings have just been planted and are still very small. As trees grow, berry bushes should be removed from under them, as this makes it difficult to control pests and diseases. If any buildings are planned on the site, it is better not to plant fruit trees or shrubs too close to the buildings. Over time, when crops grow, they can make it difficult to approach buildings; in addition, even a low building will shade trees or shrubs, retarding their growth.

When planting fruit trees, pay attention to the fact that it is best to plant trees of each crop separately. This is necessary to optimize the control of pests and plant diseases. Because sometimes it happens that the timing of spraying trees of one species coincides with the fruiting time of other species. Considering that all work on caring for fruit trees in a garden plot is carried out manually, the row spacing can be left not very wide.

Planning a garden for personal plot, you should carefully think through all the issues associated with planting fruit bushes and especially trees, because a garden is planted once and for many years.

When planning your garden, consider the following:

❧ what types of fruit bushes and trees are suitable for this climatic region;

❧ in order not to make a mistake with plant varieties, it is best to estimate their yield in advance. This will help determine the number of seedlings;

❧ If you want to get rich harvests, you need to take into account that placing trees nearby different varieties one ripening period will ensure cross-pollination during the flowering period, which in turn will serve as the key to a good harvest in the future;

❧ It is best to find out the compatibility information different varieties fruit trees and shrubs, since the proximity of some crops can lead to a decrease in yield;

❧ to avoid problems with placing trees on the site, you can first create a planting scheme on the plan. Draw a plan of the site on paper, and from another sheet of paper, cut out circles of the required diameter, which will indicate shrubs and fruit trees. For example, an adult apple tree of the Antonovka variety has a crown diameter of 3 m on average. This means that when planting apple trees of this variety, it is necessary to calculate at what distance from them fruit trees of other species or shrubs can be planted;

❧ it is useful to know that the southwestern side of any building, as a rule, creates a very good microclimate, which is expressed in long-term illumination and protection from cold winds. And this means that temperature regime here will be the most optimal for heat-loving plants;

❧ if groundwater in your area lies close to the soil surface, then use this circumstance to your advantage. In an area with close groundwater, you can plant shrubs or plant a vegetable garden;

❧ when planting a new garden in the place of an old one, you must remember about crop rotation. If you plant a young apple tree in the place of an uprooted one, it will not grow well.

The best option is to plan planting in your garden plot in advance. But if, in addition to the garden, buildings are also planned on the site, then, of course, the garden should be laid out after the construction is completed. construction work. Otherwise, the equipment will crush the recently planted trees and raze the strawberry plantation to the ground.

DIY garden

Planting a garden is not an easy task. But if you follow the basic rules of planting seedlings and caring for them, you will succeed!

Selection of seedlings for

The best place to buy quality planting material- these are seedling nurseries or specialty stores. When buying a tree, look at it carefully. The trunk of the seedling should be 2 cm in diameter, smooth, without sores or damage. The length of the roots is 25-30 cm. Give preference to those trees whose roots have a lump of earth. If the roots are exposed, the tree will most likely be sick for a long time or will not take root in the new place at all. Crown young tree should consist of three or more well-developed branches with a length of at least 45-50 cm. They are called skeletal.

ADVIСE

* Buy varieties adapted to your climate (zoned)
* When transporting, wrap the root of the seedling with wet cloth and place it in a plastic bag.

Preparatory work

Marking the area For good development crown and root system there must be sufficient space between seedlings. Therefore, determine in advance at what distance from each other the trees will grow, and drive pegs into these places. The distance between cherries should be at least 2 m, plums - at least 3 m, apple trees and pears - approximately 4-5 m.

Preparing the place. Dig a hole and remove all remaining roots from weeds and previous plants. Pit size for plums and cherries: diameter - 70-80 cm, depth - 40 cm; for apple and pear trees: diameter - about 1 m, depth - at least 60-70 cm. Loosen the bottom of the hole to the depth of a spade bayonet. If the soil is infertile, add a little to the hole. mineral fertilizer(for example, 150-200 g bone meal) and a glass wood ash. Fertilizer must be applied several days before planting the seedlings. In the center of the hole, drive a stake 1.2-1.5 m long so that it rises half a meter above the ground.

Planting seedlings in the garden

Cut off roots damaged during transportation or digging to a healthy place. Cut the branches to 1/3 of the length. Pour a mixture of earth and humus into the hole (half a bucket per tree). Form a mound out of it around the stake, place the seedling on it, straighten the roots, and cover it with soil. Tie the seedling to a stake. Water thoroughly. For apple and pear trees you need 3-4 buckets of water, for cherries and plums - 2-3. When the water is absorbed, add more soil. Fertilize the trees only after shoots at least 10-12 cm long appear on them.

When planting, make sure that the grafting site at the bottom of the trunk is not covered with soil.

Features of growing fruit trees

The health and productivity of fruit and berry crops directly depend on the right choice places in the garden. In this case, it is necessary to take into account their requirements for growing conditions.

Plum and cherry plum They grow on any fertile, moist soil, but do not tolerate excess moisture. The depth of groundwater is no closer than 1 m. The place should be sunny and protected from winds. But cherry plum is more thermophilic. In shaded places with insufficient air circulation, cherry plum bears fruit poorly and is more often affected by fungal diseases.

Apple It is considered the most unpretentious fruit tree. It can grow and bear fruit on soils of any mechanical composition, both in sunny places and in shaded corners. But best soils- loamy, with well-permeable subsoil, or sandy loam, rich in humus. This tree does not like low places and hollows where cold air accumulates. The optimal groundwater level is no closer than 1.5-2 m from the surface. At higher elevations, apple trees are planted on artificial hills or ramparts.

Cherries and sweet cherries require fertile light loams and sandy loam soils with a neutral soil reaction. They do well on sandy soils, but grow poorly on clay soils. Cherry does not tolerate waterlogging; for it, groundwater must lie no closer than 2 m from the surface of the earth. Sweet cherries are more moisture-loving than sour cherries.

These trees love bright light, although they tolerate shading. In the shade they bear fruit worse and produce a meager harvest. In areas with cold winters, it is better to plant cherries only in the spring.

Pear prefers sandy and loamy soils, does not tolerate heavy clay soils. On sandy soils, the taste of fruits deteriorates sharply. Pears should be planted in warm, elevated places. Groundwater should be no closer than 1.5 m. It is less winter-hardy than the apple tree, but more drought-resistant.

Apricot- typical southern culture. IN middle lane And in Siberia, it is not so much the winter cold that is dangerous for it, but the alternation of thaws and frosts in the spring, which damage the blooming flowers. It is better to plant apricot close to buildings so that the tree can receive additional heat from them. The place should be high, protected from the winds. Any sufficiently fertile, slightly acidic soil is suitable for it. It grows worse on heavy clay soils.

Cherry orchard care

The Cherry Orchard is not only a literary, but also a garden classic. True, cherries have a reputation as a capricious crop.

If you were going to spend your energy only on planting a tree, and then sit with a basket and wait for the berries, then we will disappoint you: this crop requires a special attitude and strict adherence to agrotechnical rules. In the spring, before the buds open, spend 3-4 days pruning the tree; Cherries don’t like thickening, but they produce a lot of root shoots. If this process is controlled, then there will be not only flowers, but also berries. Cut out all the shoots close to the ground so that it is light and free. Cut off all branches from the bottom of the trunk. The height of the cherry tree trunk should be 30-40 cm. On the lower shoots, remove all small branches going down or overlapping with others, until the first strong branch. The second important condition for cherry fruiting is cross-pollination. Whether your cherry variety needs a pollinator or not, see this information in the catalog or ask at the nursery. Be sure to lime the soil under the cherries - this is the third condition. Lime, chalk, dolomite flour. When planting, keep in mind that the crop does not tolerate wet roots, so plant on a mound. The place for planting cherries can be easily calculated by the accompanying crops: it will feel great where bird cherry, rowan, birch, hazel, linden, maple, and oak live well.

Advice! If you want to better pollinate your cherry in the spring, then during flowering, spray the flowering tree with water and honey, this will attract pollinating insects.

Water the orchard

In hot, dry weather, the garden needs watering. If there is not enough moisture, this negatively affects the growth of young trees, the filling of fruits and berries, and, consequently, their quality and productivity.

Watering in July also has a positive effect on the formation of flower buds for next year.
The trees are watered along the entire crown projection so that the soil becomes moist to a depth of 60 cm.
Under berry bushes during the formation and filling of fruits, give 3-4 buckets of water every 10 days.

Why doesn't the orchard grow?

Planted according to all the rules Apple and pear trees grow well for the first few years, but then the growth of shoots may stop. The trees begin to grow poorly and bear little fruit.

The reason is that the trees do not receive enough necessary nutrition, therefore periodic fruiting and weak growth are observed. The seedlings grew well in the first years, using the nutrients provided during planting. But when the roots reached the walls of the planting holes and no food was found behind them, the growth of the trees stopped. The fertilizers that you apply are not used by the trees, and if they are used, then in very small quantities, since they do not reach the absorbing roots.

In order for trees to develop normally and bear fruit every year, they need to be fed correctly. Since the bulk of the roots are located at a depth of 35-40 cm, and the suction roots are located along the outer perimeter of the crown, to apply fertilizing, they dig holes or grooves to this depth along the perimeter of the crown and add fertilizers there, followed by covering them with earth. In the fall, organic fertilizers, as well as phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, are added to them, and nitrogen fertilizers are added in the spring. After flowering, during the formation of ovaries, you can once again give the trees nitrogen fertilizers in the form of liquid fertilizer (slurry, mullein, nettle infusion, urea solution or ammonium nitrate). But it is necessary to introduce them to the depth of the roots.

Happy owners of their own land plots, be it a dacha or private house, almost immediately face the problem of competent zoning of the territory. Now there are a lot of landscape design specialists, but our people are closer to planning a garden with their own hands. The house, garden and vegetable garden are their own, and here it is important to initially take into account all the nuances, because remodeling it will be problematic or even impossible.

Common types of planning

Advice: in the vast majority of cases, when designing a standard garden with your own hands, experts adhere to the proportions according to which residential buildings account for 10% of the territory, 15% is taken by the recreation area and outbuildings, 75% is given to plants.

Despite the apparent diversity, the planning of a garden plot can be done in four main ways.

1. The most common is the rectilinear or parallel-perpendicular option. They choose it not because it has any special beauty, but rather because it is easier. Plus, this arrangement is subconsciously associated with order.

Important: parallel-perpendicular forms, in plan landscape design, create the effect of reducing space.
Therefore, in this way, planning a garden plot of 10 acres or more can be carried out.

1. The direct opposite would be the circular arrangement option. Let's say right away that this is a fairly specific method, and it requires certain knowledge in landscape design. An orchard and flower beds can be included in this way, but with a vegetable garden it will be more difficult.
2. The diagonal arrangement can to some extent be called universal. Thus, it can be done as a layout for a garden plot of 15 acres or more. So is the arrangement on the standard six hundred square meters. The diagonal orientation creates visual volume and at the same time makes it possible to easily arrange the location of various zones on the site with your own hands.
3. The fourth option can safely be called creative. There are no specific laws here; as a rule, it is a symbiosis of several types described above. Most often it is used in areas with incorrect configuration and broken perimeter lines.

Advice: before starting to implement your project, you must draw it on paper.
If you purchased ready plot, on which there are already some buildings and plantings that you do not plan to remove, they should be noted first and then proceed from the resulting picture.

Laws of rational distribution

Of course, it is much easier to plan the location of buildings, a garden and a vegetable garden on 10 acres; this is the very critical square area on which such landscape delights as an open pond or a separate children's playground will look appropriate. But owners of smaller plots should not be upset either; with the right approach, you can make a masterpiece out of any territory.

In any project, the house is the main object, attention is paid to it first, so you should start with it. The approach here can be twofold, depending on the overall focus.

If the site is being developed with the aim of growing a good harvest and in the future it should be overgrown with fruit trees and a rich vegetable garden, then it is better to locate the buildings on the outskirts. Moreover, from the north or north-west side, so as not to block the sun from the plants.

In an area intended exclusively for recreation, with lawns and flower beds, it is more reasonable to locate housing in the center or closer to the front part. Outbuildings, in both cases, it is recommended to hide them in the depths of the territory; if this is not possible, then they should be decorated with shrubs or vineyards.

It is better to place a recreation area with a barbecue and appropriate furniture closer to the house; in small areas it is appropriate to make a covered terrace adjacent to the house; in large areas it is possible to arrange a gazebo. This will make it more convenient to establish the necessary communications. But, undoubtedly, such a zone should be hidden from prying eyes.

If you would like to receive regularly good harvests and admire the beauty of your flower beds all season long, then all green spaces should receive as much sunlight as possible. Also great value has a diagram for planning an orchard and vegetable garden with your own hands, because the price of improper planting is the lack of a harvest.

Arrangement of an orchard

Let's assume that all the pains of creativity associated with arranging different zones at your dacha or in a private household are already behind you and the time has come to purchase seedlings. The most common mistake young owners make is the desire to plant more and more of everything.

But we should not forget that fertile land is not dimensionless and no more than 7 tall, fruit-bearing trees can fit on one hundred square meters.

With a low or flat planting, you can accommodate up to 15 healthy trees and still have room for a small vineyard and shrubs. IN in this case It is much better to plant less than to invest in high-quality seedlings, the price of which can be rather high, and after a couple of seasons to uproot the trees, because they develop poorly and interfere with the growth of neighboring plantings.

Review your list.

Think about whether you really need all the plants you plan to plant.

• Sea buckthorn is certainly useful, but after the first harvest, interest in it drops sharply. Intensive growth, thorns and problematic harvesting will quickly discourage the desire to grow it; it’s easier to buy 1 – 2 jars on the market.
• Cultivated low-growing walnuts are rare; in 80% of cases they will sell you regular ones. Its crown will cover a large area, and its roots can tear out a light strip foundation. It is appropriate in large areas or next to a permanent cottage, creating shade over the barbecue area.
• Hazelnuts will take a quarter of a hundred square meters and will produce a lot of shoots.
• One viburnum is enough; it is better to plant it on the outskirts, near the fence. The plant is unpretentious and tolerates shade well.
• Chokeberry or chokeberry, not for everyone. The fruits are good for blood pressure, but this plant loves the sun.

Any plant reaches for the light, and until it reaches its goal, it will not bear fruit normally. Therefore, by planting a seedling in a deliberately shaded area, you thereby doom yourself to a lack of harvest, and the plant to eternal struggle. In this case, even the best grafted seedlings will not save you.

The size of the shadow is approximately half the height of the tree. An area where there is no sun for half a day or more is considered shaded. But don’t worry, you can place paths, design elements or flower beds in these places.

Important: trees planted near high walls will “shy away” from them and will need to be shaped.
The only exception is the southern direction.

If the goal is big harvest then it is better to form trees with a height of no more than 2 m, in some cases the height can reach up to 4 m. A comfortable distance between trunks should be twice the height of the tree, in other words, there should be at least 4 m between two-meter plants.

Try to place tree lines, vineyard trellises and rows of bushes from north to south. Thus, you get the additional opportunity to plant low-growing crops between the rows of tall plants; there will be enough sun for everyone.

A few words about the garden

Ease of movement in the garden is important. Comfortable size The paths should be at least 40 cm wide. They should be convenient not only to walk on, but also to deliver fertilizers or harvest crops.

Based on many years of experience, we can safely say that the parallel-perpendicular arrangement of tracks is inconvenient in this case. You will constantly trip over right angles and curse sharp turns.

The law works in vegetable beds: the shorter the path, the better. Therefore, feel free to combine diagonals, semicircles or any other configurations that are convenient for you.

The width of the beds may vary, but a good bed should be raised to a height of about 20 - 30 cm and edged with a border. The internal space is completely filled with fertile, fertilized soil.

Cabbage, root vegetables and some bush legumes like beds at least 1 meter wide. Beds for climbing beans, tall spreading tomatoes, cucumbers or melons can be made 60 cm each.

You should also consider mutual love or hostility of cultures.

• It is recommended to plant rhubarb, sorrel, perennial onions and horseradish separately from the general planting.
• A variety of greens, such as dill, parsley, spinach, rucala and other salad greens, will find their place between the main beds.
• Cabbage does not tolerate proximity to tomatoes, strawberries, onions or potatoes. Onions have a negative attitude towards legumes or turnips. Cucumbers do not need to be combined with tomatoes, rhubarb or carrots.
• If we talk about a favorable combination, then legumes, corn and sorrel get along well with zucchini. Tomatoes love to grow next to parsley, beans, carrots or onions.

Important: do not forget about crop rotation.
Related plants should not be planted in one place for more than 3 years, after which redevelopment should be carried out.
Otherwise, land depletion may occur.

The video in this article reveals some of the secrets of landscape design and DIY garden planning.

Conclusion

The layout of a garden and vegetable garden on 15 acres belongs to the category of layout of large areas. Unlike the miniature 6 acres, there is already room for creative thought to run wild. But we do not advise you to neglect the above recommendations; correcting errors may take a lot of time.