According to the overwhelming majority of lovers of bathing traditions, the Russian steam room, like the Finnish sauna, should be heated with firewood. For this purpose, a furnace is installed in the steam room, and the combustion products are discharged outside. The question is how to properly mount such a chimney in the bath, which will provide good traction and last a long time, and most importantly, safely. This article will let you know existing species chimney pipes and ways of their installation.

Types of chimneys

Currently, homeowners are installing 3 types of chimneys for a bath:

• pipe made of stainless steel or ordinary ferrous metal with thick walls;
• double-walled pipe with a layer of fireproof insulation - a sandwich chimney;
• traditional brick chimney.

The normal pipe is the simplest option but it is being used less and less. People prefer safety over cheapness, and therefore they are increasingly inclined towards sandwiches. Yes, and black streaks of condensate, spoiling the entire appearance shiny stainless steel surface, few people like it. Although, if you make some effort and mount the pipe as expected, such troubles can be avoided. Below we will look at how to do it right.

For reference. Ordinary metal pipes on steel bath stoves are usually put by the owners, who like to do everything with their own hands and save as much as possible on materials.

The double-walled sandwich channel design greatly simplifies installation work and makes the operation of the bath much safer in terms of possible ignition and fire. Since the furnace is in any case located inside the building, the chimney meets various building construction- wall, ceiling, roofing. And far from always they consist of fireproof materials, which means that an ordinary hot pipe of a gas duct represents a high fire hazard.

That is why a chimney made of sandwich pipes is good because the temperature on its surface is much lower than the flash threshold of most building and finishing materials. Nevertheless, in accordance with the fire safety rules, a double-walled and brick flue is also indented to combustible structures. By the way, the first 2 types of channels are mounted together with steel sauna stoves, and the third, respectively, with brick ones.

Note. If the furnace itself is brick, then the pipe for the combustion products is made the same, in other cases metal gas ducts are installed.

According to the method of laying, the installation of the chimney in the bath with your own hands is done outside or inside the building. With an outdoor location, a horizontal or inclined section extending from the furnace penetrates the outer wall, and only then joins the vertical section. Internal layout implies the passage of a vertical chimney pipe through the ceiling and roof structures. These nodes represent the greatest fire hazard, the consequences of improper installation are shown in the photo:

In the photo, when passing through the ceiling, the distance from the pipe to combustible materials was clearly not maintained, which is why the latter began to smolder. Error on bottom photo obvious - unacceptably short vertical section, which should rise in this case above the roof ridge.

Chimney installation rules

The places where the pipe passes through the ceiling and other building structures should be considered taking into account the fact that they are lined with wood from the inside, that is, combustible material. At the same time, it does not matter what material the wall or ceiling itself is built from, it is enough that there is a combustible lining. In general, the postulates of laying chimney channels sound like this:

• before installing metal or masonry brick oven you need to choose a place well so that the future chimney of the bath does not fall on bearing structures roofs. It makes no sense then to make unnecessary turns of the pipe, and it is impossible to turn the brick channel. The total number of pipe turns should not exceed 3;
• the horizontal section from the stove to the tie-in into the vertical channel should not exceed 1 m in length. The exception is the flue inclined at an angle of 45 °, sometimes used instead of the horizontal one. But even here you should not get carried away, make this segment as short as possible;
• a single-walled metal chimney must be separated from unprotected combustible floor materials at a distance of 0.5 m. If combustible surfaces are closed with a non-combustible screen, the gap can be reduced to 38 cm. All requirements of fire safety standards are detailed in the figure below;
• the same figure shows how to correctly install the chimney in height so that its cut does not fall into the leeward zone. Then strength natural draft will decrease significantly;
• the vertical gas duct must be equipped with a system for cleaning and draining condensate.

Modern correct chimney made of brick has an insert made of stainless steel or ceramic elements inside. This is necessary in order to avoid the destruction of the walls from the effects of condensate, which, due to the uneven operation of the heat source, freezes in the pores of the brick, crumbling it into pieces.

Starting from attic floor it is strongly recommended to protect a single-wall pipe with a heat-insulating layer of fireproof insulation, the best option is basalt fiber. Outside, the insulation is wrapped in a galvanized steel casing. Then condensate will not appear outside the pipe, and attic space will be protected from fire. When installing a chimney through a wall, the same indents are observed as for passing through the ceiling.

First, about brick structures, which are a continuation of the laying of the furnace. The passage knot, called cutting, is performed by expanding the masonry to the standard dimensions, as shown in the diagram above. It turns out that when crossing the ceiling, it is necessary to withstand a wall thickness of one and a half bricks (380 mm), and roofing- in 1 brick (250 mm).

Steel pipes for exhaust gases are usually assembled from sections inserted one into the other. Moreover, it is necessary to mount the chimney in such a way that the condensate inside the gas duct can flow down unhindered. That is, the upper section is inserted into the lower one, this is called the "condensate" assembly. As for modular sandwiches, the inner tube of the inserted upper section must enter the lower one, and the outer one should wrap around the casing of the lower one from the outside. In this way, precipitation is removed, calmly flowing to the ground.

Important. No “smoke” assembly, that is, inserting sections one into the other, on the contrary, is allowed.

If you decide to make a chimney for a bath through the ceiling, then you should prepare an opening of the required size in the ceiling. Then make a box with a bottom and a hole for the pipe from roofing steel, fix it in the opening and then install the smoke channel. The space between it and the sides of the box is filled with expanded clay, vermiculite or stuffed tightly basalt wool. Detailed details of the node can be taken from the diagram:

Advice. Instead of a complex passage assembly, you can use a samovar-type water tank that is built into the ceiling and performs 2 functions at once. Similar good decisions offered by many furnace manufacturers, the details are shown in the drawing:

The vertical external chimney is attached to the wall on brackets in such a way that there is at least 1 bracket per section. If the sections are long, then the brackets are placed at intervals of 2 m. When making turns, you should avoid installing elbows at an angle of 90 °, try to use bends at 45 or 30 °. The upper section of the chimney can be covered from precipitation with an ordinary umbrella or some kind of deflector can be installed. Better is the one that turns after the wind, preventing it from blowing inside the pipe.

How to clean the chimney in the bath?

Brick or stainless chimneys serving sauna stoves should be cleaned as needed. Practice shows that with year-round use of the bath, such a need occurs at least 2 times a year. For this purpose, there are special brushes tied to a rope with a load so that they can be lowered from top to bottom.

It is necessary to drain the condensate through the tap at the bottom of the pipe, climb onto the roof and lower the ruff inside. Before this, you will need to remove the umbrella or deflector. It is very convenient when a chimney with a hole (revision) is installed in the bath, through which access from below is opened. Then cleaning can be done from both sides, and then remove the soot that has fallen through the hatch.

Apart from mechanical way, there is also a chemical cleaning of the chimney. On sale there is a tool called a “chimney sweep log”, which is placed in the firebox of the stove and burned there in accordance with the instructions. The tool is quite universal, suitable for any solid fuel heaters and has been repeatedly tested in practice.

Conclusion

Installing a sauna stove is only half the battle. Installation of such an important part as a chimney will take no less time, if not more. It is important to ensure compliance with 2 main requirements: compliance with fire regulations and the presence of good stable traction.

In those days when bath stoves were built without a chimney, our ancestors had to wash themselves “in black”. But today there is no more carbon monoxide or soot settling in the baths - and therefore the design of modern steam rooms has become much more attractive. And those who managed to build a sauna stove even without experience can easily cope with a chimney. The main thing is to follow all safety rules and not to miss any of the details.

The installation of a chimney for a bath is a responsible matter. After all, one mistake is enough - and the bath will not be able to function, and therefore it is so important to do everything slowly and accurately. And it is important in no case to prevent accidental penetration of carbon monoxide into the steam room - and for this it is better to check each stage of construction seven times. And everything will work out!

Types of chimneys - internal and external

So, the chimney in the bath can be internal or external. In Russia, it is the internal ones that are more common, which do not violate the architectural style of the steam room and significantly save the thermal energy of the bath - it all remains indoors. But the external ones are more a tradition of American ranches, although you can’t refuse the spectacular exterior of such a design.

Scheme with differences between the external chimney and the internal one

An internal chimney for a bath is good because it has much better draft and is much easier to maintain. Yes, and it does not need to be insulated additionally.

But if you equip an external chimney, you don’t have to make holes in the ceiling and roof, which also has its own undoubted advantages. In total, the thickness of the masonry walls of the chimney inside the building is at least 12 cm, and in the outer walls - from 38 cm.

Variants and diagrams of the chimney device

So, what is the device of the chimney for the bath? It usually consists of a pipe, flanges and connecting elements. And the main requirement for it is the ability to withstand really high temperatures and at the same time not emit any harmful substances.

Differences in chimneys along the path of the smoke

To prevent the chimney from losing a lot of heat, it must be located closer to inside walls - such traction will be the most effective. But if for some reason this cannot be done, then it is necessary to make solid, solid walls for it, the thickness of which depends on the external air temperature. For example, if it is not below 20? C, then it is up to 38 cm, and if there are very coldy, then a thickness of 58-65 cm will be more optimal.

If more than one furnace is built in the bathhouse, each chimney must still have its own - otherwise the traction force will be seriously impaired. In extreme cases, at a height of 75 cm, a dissection device is still being built. But the surface of the chimney from the inside should be without any roughness - of course, it cannot be made ideal, but it is important to minimize such manifestations so that soot cannot accumulate inside its walls (this is fire unsafe).

The simplest version of the chimney device

So, the easiest way to make a sauna stove chimney is to use a stainless steel pipe. All you need is the following details:

• One galvanized elbow 20 x 120 cm
• Two galvanized elbows 16 x 120 cm each
• Three stainless steel elbows 16 x 10 cm
• One 16 cm tee with plug
• One mushroom per 20 cm.

The pipes are fastened with self-tapping screws, and a hole of 16 cm is drilled in the slab. Soft roofing material and thermal insulation are temporarily removed from the roof of the bath 15 cm from the hole. The part of the pipe that comes out must be wrapped with 16 cm of basalt wool and additionally with asbestos cord. After that, a pipe is put on 20 cm, which must be fixed and well coated bituminous mastic. An asbestos cord is necessarily wound between the pipes on the upper gap - so that precipitation does not get inside and fungus does not form.

This is the simplest chimney device in the bath, which you can either do yourself or purchase for a small price.

Differences in chimney installation for different stoves

Chimneys for modern baths today they are made more often either from bricks or from steel pipes. Both that and that material have their pros and cons, and their installation is also different.

How to install a chimney to a metal furnace

As soon as the steel or cast iron stove is installed, the installation of the chimney to it begins. In order to the chimney itself, several retaining supports with special gaps are connected to expand the pipes - it is better if they are asbestos pipes or special “sandwiches”, which are much more refractory than ordinary iron ones. But the direct effect of fire on them is also undesirable, and therefore iron pipe it is installed up to the first knee, and only then only a sandwich pipe or asbestos-cement pipe.

It remains to equip the upper part of the pipe with rain protection - for example, with a cone-shaped iron plug, which will rise slightly above the pipe and allow smoke to escape more freely. And a special plug is traditionally installed on the lower part of the pipe, which will serve more than once in the future to drain condensate and clean pipes.

Brick oven option

If you make a brick stove for a stove and in the standard order, then it will not be difficult to make a chimney for it with your own hands.

So, as soon as the last brick row of the stove blocks it, the construction of the chimney begins. This usually happens on the 12-19th row, when its side doors overlap.

In this case, two channels are formed on the 21st row - each one brick in size. Later they will be combined into one. Now with right side on the opening you need to let three or four - to block the space above the core. As a result, the gap between the main masonry and the core will be 2-3 cm, and all voids should be filled with mineral wool insulation. On the 22nd row, the opening above the core will be completely blocked, after which the laying of the channels to the middle begins. And in order for the overlap to not crack in the future, you can lay out another row of bricks above the core.

On the 23rd row, the narrowing of the chimney will begin - the masonry turns into a classic five with the size of a brick inner space. This is where the valves are installed - one after the other, where the second is placed through the row.

Now the masonry will smoothly turn into a classic fluff.

At self installation chimney, the most important thing is to prevent any cracks so that condensation does not form. Secondly, the cross section of the pipe should not exceed the norm - otherwise the rise of the gas will be slowed down, which means that it will cool much faster.

What to do if you already have a ready-made chimney?

Of course, much faster and easier to purchase already finished chimney for a bath - but it is important to install it correctly, although outside help is not required for this.

So, any chimney is placed so that the pipe goes into open air exactly 50 cm. At the same place where the roof and pipe join, it is necessary to make the so-called “otter”, which will serve as an obstacle to precipitation.

By the way, the first sign of a poor-quality chimney installation is the soot that has appeared over time on the walls of the bath. In this case, it will be necessary to urgently look for the resulting gap and correct it.

Technology for cleaning a clogged chimney

And finally, it is important to take care of the regular cleaning of the chimney. Its most proven and oldest method, for example, is mechanical. To do this, pick up ruffs, special weights, and sometimes even a sledgehammer with a crowbar. True, this work is so dirty that you will have to take everything out of the bath in advance and cover the remaining surfaces with layers of newspapers.

The easiest of the above is to clean with a brush - for this it is enough to insert it into the chimney and gently push it up until the resistance of the accumulated soot weakens. You don’t just need to twirl it - otherwise you will have to get this tool in parts later.

If small growths have become noticeable in the pipe, you can use aspen firewood - when they burn, an excellent draft is created, which takes the ashes out of the pipe. In addition, the aspen has a dry and strong heat, in which the resinous substances in the pipe from the firebox with conifers immediately burn out. By the way, potato peelings also have the same properties, if they can be prepared in the right quantity.

But more and more popular modern methods chimney cleaners are chemical preparations that contain special substances that can carry soot with them when burned, or loosen it so that it falls off on its own.

And it is best to clean the bath chimney after rain. Simple care and regular care for the cleanliness of the pipes - and the firewood in the bath will burn at "five"!

The choice and installation of a chimney is one of the most difficult aspects in the construction of a bath. If you approach this issue without proper preparation, make mistakes - this will cause a quick failure of the smoke exhaust system, a fire and carbon monoxide poisoning that has entered the room.

As practice shows, the most the best option is the installation of a chimney from sandwich pipes in the bath and sauna. Of course, it is worth choosing only those systems that are directly intended for connection to solid fuel equipment.

Is it possible to install a sandwich chimney in the bath

Installation of a sandwich chimney for a stainless steel bath is not only a possible, but also a recommended way to remove combustion products from the room. Why is it so?

Most companies involved in the production of sandwich pipes have launched systems designed exclusively for the bath. The designs take into account the features of operation in conditions wet room and highly heated flue gases.

Features of installation of a sauna sandwich chimney

The use of sandwich systems allows you to secure wooden bath from the fire. The heating temperature of the pipe surface, due to the insulation, rarely exceeds 40 ° C. Despite this, in order to ensure maximum protection and safety, when installing smoke exhaust pipes, fire safety requirements and SNiP are observed.

There is a specific procedure for proper installation furnace chimney from sandwich pipes to wooden bath with your own hands. Strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions and recommendations is the key to long-term and safe operation of the smoke exhaust system.

How to bring a stainless chimney in a bath through the ceiling and roof

According to the requirements of SNiP, which apply to wooden and other fire hazardous buildings, fire breaks are provided for when installing a smoke exhaust system. In particular, a node for passing through the roof of the bath, as well as floor structures, is installed.

Carry out penetration in two ways:


There are several additional recommendations regarding the installation of a chimney.

The sandwich chimney has a low fire hazard, and compliance with the recommendations set out in the PB makes its use as safe as possible. During assembly, it is better to use branded components manufactured at the factory.

Outdoor installation of a sandwich pipe on the bath wall

The scheme for assembling the chimney along the outer wall for the bath is as safe as possible, since the heating parts of the pipe practically do not come into contact with combustible materials. Installation is carried out in the following way:

• Installation is carried out on a support console for external pipe mounting. There is no need to make a foundation. The support console is attached to the wall of the building with studs.
• Fastening the pipe to the outer wall of the bath is carried out using clamps. It is recommended that for outdoor installations, fasteners are installed every meter of the chimney.
• The minimum distance from the pipe to the wall of the house is 15 cm.
• At the very beginning of the design, a steam trap and an inspection channel are installed for cleaning and maintenance.

It is not difficult to install a sandwich chimney outside the building on your own. The smoke exhaust system is assembled according to the type of designer.

Pairing a sandwich pipe and a sauna stove

To properly assemble a chimney from sandwich pipes in a bath, some features are taken into account:

• Connection to the furnace is carried out by means of a special adapter - adapter. At the same time, it is taken into account that the sandwich pipe should not be along the entire length of the chimney in the bath. It is better that an ordinary single-walled steel chimney passes through the steam room.
• A mesh filled with small fraction stones is placed on the pipe. As a result, "soft heat" can be obtained. After water procedures, the steam room dries quickly. The stove prevents the appearance of fungus and mold.
• By connecting the stainless steel sandwich chimney to the heating sauna stove with the help of a stainless steel section, a storage water tank is installed. The flue gas temperature at the very beginning of the smoke exhaust system reaches 400-500°C, which is more than enough to heat water.

To switch from the oven to the sandwich pipe, you need to install an adapter. The device takes into account the difference in metal expansion between a single-wall pipe and a sandwich system. A single-walled stainless steel chimney can burn out, but on condition correct installation, this will not happen soon.

Installation of a hot water tank on a sandwich pipe

For the arrangement of baths and saunas are created suitable conditions for water procedures. One of the main tasks during construction is the provision of hot water.

There are many ways to achieve what you want: install a boiler, install a flow heater or column, etc. As practice shows, if you provide for heating water in a tank on a pipe, you can significantly save money, not only during installation, but also during subsequent operation.

How does this design work?

• Flue gases are heated to a temperature of 400-500°C in the combustion chamber and enter the chimney.
• On the pipe, as close as possible to the furnace, install storage tank.
• The installed capacity has a different volume: 20, 40, 60 and 120 liters. Depending on this parameter, the appropriate diameter of the sandwich pipe channel is selected. The tank is mounted on special anchor plates to the wall.

The procedure for assembling a chimney sandwich with a tank on a pipe is described in detail in the instruction manual. Installation is carried out in a similar way to the chimney. After installation, a water supply system is connected to the tank.

Fire safety measures

The design of sandwich systems provides almost absolute safety. Manufacturers heating equipment for baths and saunas, we have specially developed smoke exhaust systems that take into account the peculiarity of operation in adverse conditions.

Using insulated oven sandwich pipes in a bath is best solution, thanks to the following advantages, guaranteeing fire safety:

• The right insulation– the construction uses basalt wool, which can withstand the impact open fire and temperatures over 1000°C.
• Material - in the production of sandwich pipes for a bath, the AISI 416/ 430/ 436 stainless steel grade is used. This steel is acid resistant and able to withstand significant temperature changes.
• Features - the appearance of condensate, soot settling, are minimized due to the design features.

The many advantages that distinguish a sandwich construction do not mean that fire safety standards can be ignored when installing smoke removal systems in rooms with an increased likelihood of fire.

PB and SNiP requires:

You can use a sandwich pipe in a cold attic without additional thermal insulation. Warming is carried out only in case of abundant condensation.

How to choose a high-quality chimney sandwich in the bath

High-quality products are offered to the consumer by domestic and foreign manufacturers of stainless steel sandwich chimneys for wood-burning sauna stoves. When choosing, they are primarily guided by technical parameters, as well as consumer reviews.

Manufacturers of insulated stainless steel chimneys

Choosing a manufacturer's brand, judging by customer reviews, is a rather complicated process. There are several dozen different modifications on the market. Among them, the most popular smoke removal systems were torn out, which had mostly positive feedback from consumers.

• Baltvent is one of the largest domestic manufacturers of chimney systems. The product range includes chimneys designed for use in residential premises, baths and saunas. The choice of structures is fully justified. All systems are mandatory check for quality.
• Volcano - the advantage is that the main direction of the company is the development and production of chimneys designed to be connected to sauna stoves, heaters, etc. The sandwich is adapted for connection to any type of solid propellant units.
• Bofill is an Italian concern that manufactures chimney pipes adapted to domestic operating conditions. Under the brand, both fully equipped systems and individual components are produced. mandatory certification for compliance with the standards in force in the EU and the Russian Federation.
• Ferrum is a company that appeared relatively recently, but has already gained popularity among domestic consumers. The Ferrum product range offers chimney pipes for connection to gas and solid fuel equipment.
• Teplov & Sukhov is a domestic company that supplies products to Russia, neighboring countries and Europe. Sandwich designs Teplov and Sukhov are optimally suited for connection to gas and solid fuel stoves used in baths and saunas.
  Separately, we can mention the EuroTees systems, with maximum wall insulation.
• Jeremias are one of the most quality systems gas ducts available to the domestic consumer. Products are completely manufactured at the German company's own factories. One of the advantages of Jeremias is the high strength weld, which maintains tightness even when exposed to severe temperature changes.

The cost of a sandwich chimney kit for a sauna stove

When purchasing a sandwich chimney for a bath, the buyer is faced with a choice: to buy a ready-made set of pipes, or components separately. Each of the solutions has its own advantages and disadvantages.

A chimney kit for a stainless steel sauna stove is offered by German and Italian manufacturers, the cost for them varies from 20 to 40 thousand rubles.

Buying components separately, you can somewhat reduce the cost of the chimney, but at the same time, the buyer bears the entire burden of calculations. The sandwich chimney consists of the following parts:

1. Insulated pipe.
2. Starting elements of a pipe from stainless steel.
3. Tees for external connection.
4. Rotary couplings.
5. Spark arrestor.
6. Storage tank (optional).
7. Passing nodes.

The components of the stainless steel chimney vary depending on the wishes of the customer. It makes no sense to install a storage tank if centralized hot water is supplied to the bath. The number of required swivel couplings, the total length of the pipe depends on the technical parameters of the room.

The standard sizes of sandwich pipes offered in the kit do not always fit. In such cases, smoke exhaust systems are purchased as separate components.

A sandwich chimney is one of the best options for removing smoke from the combustion of fuel in wood-burning sauna stoves. There are currently many constructive solutions chimney devices in wooden buildings. And to the bath with its main room - the steam room, this applies in the first place.

This article will introduce a chimney system using stainless steel double-walled chimneys (sandwiches). In addition, on the basis of the presented drawings, it will be told about important nuances and do-it-yourself chimney installation technologies with a description of common mistakes.

Traditionally, the main material for arranging a chimney is refractory brick. At present, such chimneys for removing combustion products from wood have not lost their relevance and are unlikely to ever lose. After all, it often happens that the owner of a Russian bath wants to have only a brick heater, and with it a brick chimney.

But modern industry also offers alternative double-walled stainless steel or galvanized steel sandwich chimneys. In this regard, the question reasonably arises of what kind of steel it is better to make it from.

Seemingly strange question. After all, everyone knows that stainless steel has incomparable advantages over ordinary steel, including galvanized steel. These are both high properties to resist corrosion, and high temperature, and appearance, which is very important when arranging the interior of the bath.

Although the galvanized coating allows for a longer service life steel chimney, but not to the extent that stainless pipes have it. Any mechanical damage (scratches, dents, etc.) during installation will adversely affect the durability of the galvanized chimney itself. Damaged places will become a source of corrosion, eventually bringing the entire pipe into complete disrepair. And this is the first step to ignite the bath.

But there is one drawback of stainless chimneys and accessories - this is their high price compared to galvanized steel. For example, according to the price list of the Sibenergoterm Novosibirsk plant, the price of a meter-long heat-insulated sandwich pipe with a diameter of 115x175 mm (insulation thickness 30 mm) made of stainless steel is 1,500 rubles, and of galvanized steel - 1,000 rubles.

The same products of the Voronezh enterprise "Ferrum" can be bought at the prices shown in this picture:

As you can see, there is a price difference. But it is not so significant as to abandon the arrangement of a stainless steel chimney. And given the excellent operational properties stainless steel products should be preferred to her.

To somehow reduce costs, you can make a combined chimney. So in the steam room with its "extreme conditions" and increased requirements for fire safety, as well as to give it a more respectable look, you can use stainless modular elements, and in the attic or outside the bath from galvanized steel.

True, during installation, it may be difficult to dock modules from various materials. Therefore, when buying, be sure to check the possibility of their assembly. Additional Warranty assembly will give and the purchase of products from only one manufacturer.

Basic requirements for a chimney in a bath

As a rule, troubleshooting comes down to replacing damaged chimney elements or additionally treating them with a heat-resistant sealant, for example, Penosil Sealant +1500 or Pentelast-1130.

Note: the above requirements are given on the basis of the norms and rules of SNiP 41-01-2003.

Do-it-yourself sandwich chimney in the bath - assembly diagram and recommendations

This chapter will deal only with the important issues of installing a chimney from wood stove- heaters. These are the preparatory work, the methods and order of assembly, as well as the passage through the wooden floor between the steam room and the attic, and through the roof of the bath.

Methods for connecting modular elements in a chimney

Installation of a chimney from steel pipes is carried out in one of two ways: “by condensate” or “by smoke”.

The first method (assembly "by condensate") is designed to ensure that the condensate formed as a result of the temperature difference between the outside and inside the pipe flows freely down the pipe. At the same time, the insulation located in the space between both pipes of the sandwich remains reliably protected from moisture.

The second method (“smoke assembly”) is used when it is necessary to provide a 100% guarantee that carbon monoxide will not enter the steam room or other bath rooms through the gaps at the junction between adjacent inner pipes.

The figure on the left shows the method of connecting chimneys "by condensate". In this case, the inner tube of the upper sandwich is inserted into the socket of the lower sandwich. As can be seen from the figure, the resulting moisture can not get inside the chimney. But the smoke, having found the slightest gap, can get into the area where a person is located.

The figure on the right shows the smoke connection method, in which the inner tube of the lower sandwich goes into the socket inner pipe top module. Smoke, rising up the pipe, does not meet resistance, freely passes the junction, and under the action of traction is removed from the bath to the outside. However, condensate, if the sealing of the joints is done carelessly, can get inside the sandwich. This circumstance will significantly violate the protective properties of insulation and accelerate the failure of the entire sandwich.

So which way to choose? It must be borne in mind that carbon monoxide can harm our health, and condensate - only the durability of the chimney. What is more important is up to us! In any case, the sealing of joints and cracks must be carried out with great care. If this is done, then the “condensate” connection method is preferable, since our health will not be affected, and the chimney will serve for a long time.

The order of assembly of a vertical chimney-sandwich

Preparatory work

Before starting installation, all elements should be prepared: pipes, adapters, bends, etc. It is necessary to remove the protective film, remove all stickers and labels, and, if necessary, wipe oil and grease stains with a rag.

The next step should be the definition and marking of the vertical axis of the chimney, starting from the outlet pipe of the sauna stove and ending with the passage through the roof. The location of this axis should ensure the creation of openings both in the ceiling and in the roof, taking into account the required dimensions for their thermal insulation. At the same time, wooden floor beams and rafters should not pass through the cutting plane. To exclude this possibility, it is necessary to place them already at the stage of designing or building a bath, taking into account the location of the wood-burning stove.

Sandwich chimney assembly procedure

Assembly should be started directly from the furnace socket in an upward direction. First of all, it is necessary to calculate the first connecting element of the chimney in such a way that the connection of the first sandwich pipe with the subsequent pipe is above the ceiling cutting plane. Perfect option its symmetrical arrangement. In any case, the docking points must be accessible to visual control.

The assembly will be carried out using the "condensate" method, in which the inner tube of the upper sandwich will be inserted into the socket of the inner tube of the lower (previous) sandwich. With light blows with a wooden mallet on the top tube, they achieve a tight fit. The upper outer pipe, on the contrary, is put on with a bell on the lower pipe.

The gaps between the connected elements are sealed with a heat-resistant sealant for stoves and chimneys, designed for a temperature of at least 1000 ˚C. Sealant is applied in the following order:

• for the inner pipes of the sandwich - on the outer surface of the inner pipe of the upper sandwich;
• for outer sandwich pipes - along the outer surface;
• in connections of a single-walled pipe and other single-walled modules, as well as in transitions from a single-walled to a double-walled pipe - outside around the circumference.

The assembly of the chimney above the attic floor is carried out only with the help of sandwich pipes, bringing it through the roof to the required height.

Docking connections are additionally fastened as follows:

• connecting sandwich pipes to each other - with crimp clamps;
• connections of a sandwich pipe with other modular elements (adapters, tees, bends ...) - crimp clamps on both sides.

To reduce the load from the weight of the entire structure on the lower elements of the chimney, it is necessary to install supporting wall brackets every 1.5-2.0 meters. But in our example, they will not be needed, since their role will be played by the nodes of the passage through the ceiling in the steam room and the roof.

An example of a vertical sandwich chimney for a Russian bath

Below are images with a chimney in a Russian log bath. For clarity, a wood-burning stove-heater from Finnish manufacturer bath equipment and accessories "Harvia". The stove is serviced outside the steam room, for example, in the dressing room, and to get hot water a stainless steel tank is installed on the pipe. To adjust the draft, a rotary gate is mounted above the tank.

The passage of the chimney through a wooden interfloor ceiling

As the main element, a ceiling-through unit (PPU) is used, which has an air gap between the steel casing and the mineralite thermal insulator. This design allows you to reduce the size of the cutting of the ceiling without losing the insulation properties.

This sketch shows the design of the PPU, as well as the procedure for laying thermal insulation in the passage through the ceiling.

Heat-resistant basalt wool is placed in the gap between the pipe and the inner wall of the PPU, and air space remains between its outer surface and the mineralite, which is an additional natural heat insulator.

Basalt wool is also laid along the outer contour of the PPU, which, in turn, is adjacent to the basalt cardboard. Cardboard additionally insulates wooden floor elements from heat.

From the side of the steam room, the PPU is closed with a steel box-shaped casing with a hole for a sandwich, and in the attic with a sheet minerite. The entire cutting in the attic is first closed with a sheet flange, and then with a steel casing, which is fixed to it with metal screws.

Passage of the chimney through the roof with a roof made of combustible materials

The scheme of cutting the roof is shown in the previous sketch.

The main works on cutting the roof are as follows:

• Marking and cutting the roof, taking into account that there is a gap of at least 130 mm from the outer surface of the chimney to the edge of the opening. This is necessary to ensure fire safety.
• A steel roof sheet with an oval hole is put on the next sandwich, the upper part of the sandwich is inserted into the opening, and the lower part is connected to the previously assembled chimney. Remember that the docking connection should not be in the plane of the opening.
• On top of the roof, a lead base with an angle of 30˚ is put on the sandwich (or, in other words, a corner roof groove). The lead base allows you to tap it tightly to the roof surface.
• From the side of the attic, the cut-out opening is first sealed with basalt cardboard, and then with heat-resistant basalt wool, and all this is closed with a roof sheet using wood screws.
• To provide adequate weather sealing, a rubber-based bituminous roofing sealant, such as Casco Roofseal or similar, is applied around the lead backing contour. The same must be done from the side of the attic.

Some types of accessories for double-walled sandwich chimneys

The main components used in the installation of the reduced chimney:

Checking the quality of the chimney assembly

When the chimney is fully assembled and checked for the absence of marriage or flaws, a test furnace should be fired with a small amount of dry firewood. Immediately after kindling, check the chimney along its entire length, turning Special attention for butt joints.

At first, a slight smoke may appear in the sauna rooms due to the combustion of oil contaminants on the outer surface of the chimney. This one is okay. There is no need to worry about this.

If the results of the first chimney check are positive, the stove should be fired at full power for another two to three hours. This is enough to reveal newly discovered shortcomings. Particular attention is needed

During the operation of the chimney, a tint color may appear on the pipes. it normal reaction steel when heated to a high temperature.

If smoke from the furnace enters the steam room, then this most likely indicates insufficient draft in the chimney. To increase traction, you will have to increase the pipe by another 0.5-1.0 meters.

Conclusion

I am writing this article and I find myself thinking that I can’t stop. After all, it turned out to be quite large, which will inevitably take a lot of time from those readers who are interested in the topic of assembling a chimney in their own bath. And all this is due to the fact that I pursue the goal of providing the information you need as fully as possible.

Perhaps we should limit ourselves to general phrases, as is done on many sites about the bath. Indeed, most of these articles are pure water plagiarism in the form of semantic processing of already published materials. And where the original is, it is almost impossible to find out. Yes, and it often happens that you read an article, but you don’t really know anything sensible for yourself.

How does it work for me? Only you, dear reader, can answer this question. Any comments left by you will only help me correct the mistakes made and continue to convey information in a form convenient for you.

Thanks in advance, and have a light bath!

And in addition, a video clip about the device and the choice of sandwiches for the chimney:

Sergey

The smoke duct is an indispensable element of any bath. He is responsible for the speed of warming up the steam room, the purity of the air in it, and fire safety. Therefore, the arrangement of the chimney must be approached as responsibly as possible.

Types of chimneys - making the right choice

Until recently, chimneys for baths were built exclusively from brick. There was simply no real alternative to this material. The brick is characterized by ideal heat storage and thermal insulation characteristics for a steam room, long service life, maximum fire safety and excellent strength. But, unfortunately, with their own hands to build brick pipe maybe not every home craftsman. Considerable knowledge and skills are required, as well as practical experience in masonry.

In addition, there are corners and rough edges in the ducts for removing smoke from bricks. inner surface. This contributes to the deposition of soot inside the pipe, which leads to clogging and, as a result, to a significant decrease in traction. If the chimney in the bath is not periodically cleaned (and this, believe me, is not at all easy), after a while it becomes impossible to use it, and sometimes even unsafe. There is a risk of ignition of soot deposits from sparks when kindling the stove.

These problems are devoid of more modern metal chimneys. They are often made in the form of sandwich structures or in the form of conventional single-wall pipes. Such structures are easy to install with your own hands. Their inner surface is very smooth, due to which the smoke comes out in a turbulent directional flow. The disadvantage of metal chimneys is the high probability of condensation forming in them. This usually occurs when the bath is operated in winter time. The problem is solved quite simply. It is necessary to select a pipe with a thick layer of thermal insulation. Then the risk of condensation will be minimal.

Having decided to make your own chimney in the bath, you must immediately choose the option of installing it. The path can be external and internal. Next, we will talk about the advantages and rules of installation. metal pipe for both options.

Internal smoke duct - it will always be warm in the steam room!

With this method of installation, the pipe is installed above the stove in the bath, stretched to the ceiling, passed through the attic, and then through the roof. The height of the tract should correspond to the level of the roof ridge or be 0.5–1 m longer than it. In this case, quality traction is guaranteed. The main advantage of the internal chimney is that the thermal energy coming through the pipe from the stove heats both the steam room itself and the attic. As a result, the required bath temperature is reached quickly and with low fuel consumption. The disadvantage of the internal structure is the complexity and complexity of laying pipes through the roof and ceiling.

It is possible to correctly make a smoke duct indoors using a simple algorithm. First, draw a diagram of the chimney, focusing on the size of the steam room. Decide on the number and length of the necessary parts (turns, straight sections). Order the required metal elements for assembling a pipe in a construction store. Along the way, get in it two sheets of metal with holes in the middle. You will put these products on the floor attic space and on the ceiling in the bath (bottom). The diameter of the holes must correspond to the cross section of the pipe used. By the way, it should be chosen as wisely as possible.

The pipe should have a diameter (internal) in the range of 15–20 cm. A design with a smaller cross section will not provide the necessary traction. If we take a pipe from large diameter, thermal energy will leave the stove very quickly and the room will begin to warm up poorly. The recommended height of the metal smoke duct is 5 m. One more piece of advice. Choose a pipe with a wall thickness of 1–1.2 mm. This product will serve you for a really long time.

Additionally, you will need to prepare a rubber seal (you will put it on the tract after the pipe is removed to the roof) and a sealant for high-quality waterproofing of the structure. A step-by-step guide for installing a metal chimney in a bath is given in the next section.

We lay the pipe from the inside - laborious, but reliable

The installation instructions for the internal flue duct will be relatively simple, since the entire system is carried out almost completely vertically. You need to assemble the chimney by placing its individual elements on top of each other. Moreover, if a conventional pipe is installed, the assembly is carried out "by smoke" - a higher one is put on the lower part. But when using a sandwich system, installation is done "by condensate" from the inside and "by smoke" from the outside.

Important nuances:

1. 1. If the stove and chimney are dangerously close to wooden walls, it is desirable to fix several layers of heat-resistant products (for example, asbestos boards) on the walls. Then they will never catch fire from excessive overheating.
2. 2. The joints between the individual parts of the chimney should not fall on the levels of the roof and attic floor.
3. 3. The sections of the connection of the parts of the path must be coated with a sealed composition with high rate heat resistance, and then additionally fixed with clamps of large width. Such special clamps are sold in hardware stores.
4. 4. If there are noticeable gaps between the pipe elements, they should be insulated with an asbestos cord. This seal must be carefully but firmly inserted into the gap.

The installation of the pipe itself begins with the connection of its first element to the stove pipe. Immediately it is worth putting a gate - a special valve that allows you to adjust the draft. Then you need to make a square hole in the ceiling and assemble a metal box with a through hole corresponding to the diameter of the pipe. Through it we will pass the path to the attic. The height of the box is taken 0.4 m more than the thickness of the ceiling surface.

Then everything will go faster. Mount the box in the ceiling, fix it, let the pipe into the attic. In the free space of the box, place stone mineral wool or expanded clay (material with medium grain is optimal). In the attic, the box should be covered with a lid (you also need to make a hole in it). In the place where the chimney passes through the roof, cut a hole, fix a sheet of heat-resistant asbestos to it from below. From above the pipe must be overlaid with sheets mineral wool or asbestos to protect the roof structure from fire. On the path so thermally insulated, pull the rubber waterproof cuff and treat the gaps with sealant. Work completed!

External chimney - quick installation rules

The external path is mounted much easier. It is done faster, requires little labor, which is important when the work is done by hand. Such a chimney does not rise to the ceiling, but is laid in the bath through the wall. To turn the pipe into the right direction a special tap is used (a metal elbow with a suitable bending angle). It is this element that is connected to the stove pipe, and then to the pipe, which is brought out. To do this, again use the box.

A tee is installed on the outside of the bath. It allows the wiring of the path up, along wall surface and down.

Pipe fastening is carried out by holders. They have a special shape, guarantee high-quality fixation of the structure. The outer pipe rises above the ridge by about 0.6 m. Its upper end must be covered with an umbrella (it is also mounted on internal chimneys), which will not let raindrops and small debris into the system. Seal the gaps between the wall and the pipe outlet with a heat-resistant sealant.

As you can see, the outdoor structure is easy to install. It does not require punching holes in the ceiling and roof, and eliminates the risk of floor leakage. But he also has a serious drawback - rapid cooling. For this reason, external systems are additionally insulated with mineral wool and other heat-insulating materials.

Choose a suitable smoke path for the steam room, which you can easily build yourself. And enjoy relaxing bath treatments at any time.