Polycarbonate greenhouses are widely represented in the retail chain - for every taste and size. But many people prefer to do them themselves. Because a greenhouse made of polycarbonate with your own hands is much stronger and more reliable. At the same time, the costs are less or the same.

How to choose a design

If you decide to build a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is advisable to choose a design that allows you to use the main advantage of this material - its ability to bend. These are two types with curved roofs with arch-shaped supports.

In one design, the arcs extend from the ground itself. If they are curved in the form of a radius, a lot of area is lost at the edges, since it is very inconvenient to work there due to the small height.

Another design solves this problem - with a composite frame welded from several pieces. Straight posts emerge from the ground/from the base, which rise to a height of at least one and a half meters. An arc is welded to them. With this arrangement, the roof is rounded and the walls are straight. You can even work along walls without problems, standing up straight to your full height.

But the rounded greenhouse roof has several disadvantages. The first is that it is more difficult to make ventilation windows in it than in a straight line. The problem can be solved by making transoms in the walls rather than in the roof. The second disadvantage of a rounded roof in a polycarbonate greenhouse is that snow falls off from it worse than from flat, sloping surfaces. If you live in a region with snowy winters, you will either have to make reinforced trusses, or make a pitched roof - with one or two slopes.

There is a third solution - to make a rounded part of the roof from two arches, welded at an angle, which forms a kind of ridge. With this structure, the snow melts well and the ridge can be protected with a wide strip of metal. This will improve snow melting and protect the joint from leaks.

DIY polycarbonate greenhouse: material for the frame

The choice of materials for the frame is not very large. Profiled (rectangular) pipes, a metal corner and a wooden beam are suitable. Galvanized profiles for drywall are also used.

Wood

The timber is used for small greenhouses, and the design is chosen with a pitched or gable roof, since bending arches from wood is difficult and time-consuming. The cross-section of the beam depends on the size of the greenhouse and snow/wind loads in the region. The most popular size is 50*50 mm. Such supports are installed in the Middle Zone. For greater reliability, corner posts can be made from 100*100 mm timber.

Moreover, to save money, you can not buy timber, but make it composite - from boards. Take two boards 50 mm wide and 25 mm thick, three boards 15 mm thick. Fold, knock down on both sides with nails. The resulting racks are stronger, withstand loads better, and are less subject to torsion, since the wood fibers are directed in different directions.

Another option - larger size

If you are building a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands on a wooden frame, all boards/timbers must be treated/impregnated with antiseptics, and those intended for the street. The ends that are buried in the ground should be treated with compounds for direct contact with the ground. Without such treatment, the wood, firstly, will quickly deteriorate, and secondly, it can become a source of plant diseases.

When connecting the posts to the trim (bottom strip), use reinforced steel mounting angles for greater rigidity and reliability. They are available in hardware stores. To increase the load-bearing capacity of the roof, additional lintels are installed.

Profiled pipes and steel angle

Most polycarbonate greenhouse frames are made from profiled pipe. If you have the skills to work with it, it’s not difficult to do everything yourself - cooking a square or rectangle is easier than round pipes. Another plus is that with help it’s easy to make arcs yourself.

The cross section again depends on the size and natural conditions. Most often they are made from a rectangular pipe 20*40 mm. But options are also possible. Another important parameter for this material is wall thickness. It is desirable that the metal be 2-3 mm. This frame can withstand significant loads.

A steel corner is also a good option, but bending it is a difficult task, so greenhouses are assembled in the form of a house - with gables or pitched roofs. The dimensions of the shelves are 20-30 mm, the metal thickness is from 2 mm.

Galvanized profiles

A do-it-yourself polycarbonate greenhouse with a frame made of profiles is the most unreliable option. It is good in areas with little snow winters, and even without strong winds. The advantage of this option is that welding is not required. And the minus is not the greatest load-bearing capacity.

One of the frames. The jibs and stops are not superfluous.

The technology used is standard - as for constructing walls and partitions from plasterboard. The only difference is that the frame is sheathed on one side and polycarbonate is attached. It is advisable to make double racks - by merging two supporting profiles, turning them “back to back” and twisting them with self-tapping screws. To make the frame more rigid, make bevels, connecting adjacent racks with inclined jumpers. It is advisable to make the roof pitched rather than round, and strengthen the trusses.

Foundation

If you are wondering whether a foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse is needed or not, there is only one answer - it is. And reliable. They fly very well. Therefore, the foundation must “anchor” the building well.

Belt type

This foundation is for buildings that are planned for more than one year. The most expensive, but also the most thorough option. If you plan to use a greenhouse all year round, the foundation is made deep - to a depth just below freezing of the soil. For seasonal use, concrete-brick or simply timber is suitable.

Concrete-brick is one of the most common

Concrete-brick (concrete-beam)

Most often they make a concrete-brick version. It is optimal in terms of cost, complexity and duration. The work is carried out as follows:

• A trench is dug according to the size of the greenhouse. Its width is about 20 cm, the depth depends on the type of soil.
  
• Thick oilcloth or roofing felt is spread on the prepared bottom. This is necessary so that moisture from the solution is not absorbed into the soil. It is also advisable to cover the sides, but there the formwork panels partially solve this problem. Without this layer, concrete will not gain strength and will collapse.
• The solution is poured into the resulting ditch. The proportions are as follows: for 1 part of cement (M 400) take 3 parts of sand and 5 parts of filler. Filler - preferably crushed stone of small and medium fraction. You should not use expanded clay - it absorbs moisture and can cause increased humidity.
• The surface is leveled “under level”. You can smooth it out with a wooden block.

  

• Mortgages - pins or pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of at least 12 mm - are installed in the foundation, in the corners and at a distance of 1 meter. Studs are installed if it is necessary to attach timber to them, and reinforcement if brick is to be laid. They stick out at least 15 cm above the foundation level.
• The poured foundation is covered with film and left for at least a week (at temperatures below 17°C, two weeks should pass). If the weather is hot, water it a couple of times a day. To preserve moisture in this case, it is better to cover it under the film with a coarse cloth (burlap).
• If the bottom trim is a beam, waterproofing is rolled out over the concrete base. You can use two layers of roofing material, but now it quickly deteriorates, so it’s better to take “Gidroizol” or something similar. You can coat concrete bitumen mastic a couple of times. The result will be more reliable.
• A row of strapping is laid:
  
• Next comes the assembly of the frame.

There are options for this type of foundation. You can install small ones in a prepared trench and fill the space between them with solution. They must be installed so that their edge is below ground level. A layer of concrete is poured on top and leveled. Mortgages are secured in the seams.

Can be used as a building material empty bottles. They are laid in rows and filled with concrete. It turns out to be a very economical and warm foundation. Its load-bearing capacity is quite enough for a more serious construction.

Beam foundation for a polycarbonate greenhouse

This option is suitable as a temporary solution - it can last two to three years. It depends on the humidity in the area, the quality of the wood and the processing. The timber is used with a large cross-section - 100*100 or more (can be made composite, from several boards). It is treated with compounds for wood in contact with the ground. The order of work is as follows:

This option is only suitable for dry areas with low groundwater. In this case, one can hope that the foundation will survive for at least several years.

Pile-grill

Another type of foundation that will not protect against frost. But it is reliable and will last a long time. Complete, and we will give a short list of works.

Next, you can attach the strapping, or you can build on a couple of rows of bricks and only after that install the frame. After this, we can say that the polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands is almost ready. All that remains is to fix the polycarbonate.

Which polycarbonate to choose

How long a polycarbonate greenhouse, purchased or built with your own hands, will last, how well it will “work” depends on the parameters and quality of the polycarbonate. One must take his choice responsibly - the sum is considerable.

Types of polycarbonate

There are three types of this material:

What type of polycarbonate is best to use for building greenhouses? Depends on the operating mode of the greenhouse. If it is heated, you will need a cell phone. If this is an option exclusively for the warm season, a corrugated (or monolithic) one is more suitable. Monolithic is also not bad, but corrugated has more rigidity. For greenhouses that are planned to be used from early spring or throughout the winter, cellular polycarbonate is installed. Due to its structure, it has superior thermal insulation characteristics - it retains heat better, although it transmits light worse (86% versus 95%).

Choosing cellular polycarbonate

It is not difficult to choose corrugated or monolithic - we are guided by the stated characteristics. It is only important that there is protection from ultraviolet radiation. There are no other pitfalls. But with a cell phone there are many nuances. You need to pay attention to the following:

The easiest way to check the quality cellular polycarbonate trying to squeeze it between your fingers. If it does not press through, even if you make a significant effort, you can take it. If it squeezes easily, look for another one.

Installation features

According to the technology, polycarbonate is mounted using starting and connecting profiles. First, profiles are installed on the frame, a sheet of cellular polycarbonate is inserted into them, which is fixed to self-tapping screws with special press washers, which simultaneously protect the mounting location from leaks. Profiles, in addition to holding the sheets in place, also protect the cuts from dust and dirt getting into the bottom. The system looks neat and works well, but all the components cost a lot of money.

Aesthetics for a greenhouse is not the most necessary property, therefore, if you need to save money, they prefer to mount it in a simple way, without profiles and press washers. Here's how to do it:

This is what directly concerns the fastening of cellular polycarbonate. There is one more point that became clear during the operation of polycarbonate greenhouses. Polycarbonate should not be placed close to the ground. It is desirable that it starts at least half a meter from the surface. Why? Because firstly, it still gets dirty and almost no light passes through it, so it does not affect the overall illumination. Secondly, it begins to deteriorate—blacken and flake. It is not clear what causes this reaction, but it is common. So, when developing a model of a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, provide half-meter walls made of another material - brick, building blocks. Doesn't matter.

Today, any gardener can create on his own summer cottage greenhouse In order to build a greenhouse or hotbed yourself, you need to create a plan, follow step by step instructions and have minimal experience with construction tools.

• the main advantages of building a greenhouse yourself;
• the main difference between winter and summer designs;
• types of greenhouses;
• stationary and collapsible structures;
• choose the material for the frame;
• types of greenhouse foundations;
• materials used to cover greenhouses;
• In what cases can you do without a foundation?
• creation of diagrams and drawings;
• main stages of greenhouse construction;
• equipment.

The main advantages of building a greenhouse yourself

At the moment, in the process of growing vegetables in summer cottages and household plots, you can use various types of greenhouse structures, created on your own or purchased from specialized stores. Today, anyone can build a greenhouse of any size.

What your greenhouse building will look like primarily depends on the materials you will use to make it. This design will have a minimal price and the ability to build a greenhouse at any time convenient for you. You can create very original designs yourself, and they will not be inferior to factory designs. For the manufacture of summer structures, polyethylene is most often used.

The main differences between winter and summer structures

At the moment, you can independently build both winter and summer greenhouses. But, before starting the construction of one of the variants of such a design, it is worth determining the main differences between these types. A winter greenhouse will require a large financial investment from you.

The main differences lie in the materials used to build greenhouses. Plastic film is suitable for summer greenhouses; it is not suitable for winter greenhouses. Winter greenhouses are most often covered with high-quality glass or polycarbonate (transparent). Thin polycarbonate can also be used to create a summer greenhouse.

If you are planning to build a winter greenhouse, then you should pay special attention to the foundation of this structure, since the foundation affects the efficiency of the heating system used in the greenhouse. The frame for a winter greenhouse should be made reliable; lighter options are suitable for summer structures. These features must be taken into account in the process of creating durable and efficient greenhouses.

Types of greenhouses

Often, greenhouses are created for growing a certain type of plant, and their characteristics must be taken into account, including the required level of illumination, as well as comfortable temperature for plant growth.

A lean-to greenhouse can be called one of the most versatile options for arrangement winter garden or greenhouse, this is due to the possibility of creating an internal transition into the building. This will allow you to maintain the greenhouse at any time of the year. Note that it is best to build a lean-to greenhouse in the southern part of the house.

Greenhouses with a gable roof that look like small houses, common in different regions our country. They can safely be called one of the most popular designs.

Drop-shaped structures are distinguished by their durability and increased light transmission; snow does not linger on their surface, but there are difficulties associated with their installation, so creating such a structure yourself is quite difficult.

A dome-type greenhouse looks very original, and it has certain advantages over other types of structures. Such structures can be installed in seismically hazardous areas, they can significantly save costs building materials. A dome-shaped greenhouse must be well insulated and sealed.

The polygonal appearance of the greenhouse provides excellent light transmission and is attractive. appearance, it is more resistant to strong gusts of wind. Installation of such a structure will require more time and effort; the main thing is to properly organize the space in order to ensure uniform heating of the air in the greenhouse.

There are Dutch greenhouses that are distinguished by their reliability and durability of construction. In this type of greenhouse, the walls are placed at an angle in order to improve illumination, which has a positive effect on the amount of crop harvested. The cost of building this type of structure is negligible.

Today you can often find tunnel greenhouses. Such designs make it possible to protect plants from bad weather conditions and gusts of wind. Thus, with minimal investment you can get high yields garden crops. This greenhouse option is most optimal for building on your own. Often such greenhouses are used for growing tomatoes and peppers.

Stationary and collapsible structures

All greenhouses and hotbeds that are used in vegetable gardens and personal plots can be divided into stationary and collapsible.

Collapsible structures have recently begun to be used in home garden cultivation plants. This collapsible greenhouse consists of lightweight, collapsible frame, often collapsible greenhouses are small in size, so they can be easily installed in different places on the site. Small collapsible greenhouses are inexpensive, but assembling such a greenhouse is very simple.

Vegetable growers have long been using stationary greenhouses to grow garden crops. Such greenhouses consist of a foundation and a metal frame, on which a covering is subsequently installed. Most summer residents and gardeners prefer to use stationary greenhouses, this is due to their durability, as well as more comfortable work in the greenhouse.

Choosing material for the frame

The frame of the greenhouse and the door must have increased rigidity, and they must be durable, which will allow the structure to withstand temperature fluctuations in different seasons, gusts of wind and the weight of the snow mass. But, it is worth considering that when creating a greenhouse it is necessary to minimize the number of elements that reduce the level of illumination in the greenhouse.

When creating collapsible structures, materials are used that are lightweight and easy to install. At the moment, only a few types of materials are used to create the frame of greenhouses, which differ in their characteristics and cost.

Wood is the cheapest and available material, which will not require the use special knowledge and specialized equipment. The wooden structure is lightweight and environmentally friendly, but it can begin to rot, so it must be treated with antiseptics.

Aluminum makes it possible to build durable and lightweight structures that are characterized by a high level of rigidity; they can withstand heavy loads. In order to connect aluminum parts, use a household riveter or nuts, which are inserted into drilled holes. This option is not so popular due to the higher cost of aluminum.

Plastic allows you to create lightweight and durable structures; it does not rot and cannot be destroyed by corrosion. It is very flexible, so it makes it possible to create structures of a wide variety of shapes, which is useful in the construction of arched greenhouses and greenhouses with a gable roof. But the plastic must be attached to the ground or base.

Steel is used for frame construction quite often, and it is necessary to create a strip foundation for the base of the greenhouse. Frames made of galvanized steel are resistant to corrosion, which increases the service life of the structure.

The profile for plasterboard is lightweight and easy to install. Based on practice, a frame made from a plasterboard profile is very convenient to use; it can last a very long time and be dismountable. The profile can be used for the construction of single and double slope structures, as well as for arched greenhouses.

Window frames, as a material for the frame of greenhouses, make it possible to build greenhouses with acceptable thermal insulation values, and this can be done in the shortest possible time with significant cost savings. Worth noting short term services of this design, even if you plan to process wooden part window structure, the maximum service life will be no more than five years.

Other materials are not used to create the frame of greenhouse structures.

Types of greenhouse foundations

The light weight and significant windage of greenhouses can cause the structure to tip over during strong gusts of wind, so the frame of the greenhouse must be installed on a reliable and durable foundation. The type of foundation is chosen depending on the expected mass of the structure.

Brick foundations are easy to build, durable and suitable for most greenhouses. Note that creating such a foundation for a greenhouse is a complex and lengthy process.

Stone foundations are durable and reliable. A properly created stone foundation will be able to support a heavy metal frame made from profiles and fiberglass. Such a foundation is used to create permanent greenhouses; it is expensive.

Concrete foundation is one of the most inexpensive options, which will allow you to quickly create a foundation for your future greenhouse. Initially, the formwork is created, after which the concrete mixture is poured and the rods are installed in order to secure the frame of the greenhouse in the future.

It is considered the simplest and cheapest wooden base for a greenhouse. But, it will be possible to use such a base, even taking into account its treatment with antiseptic agents, for no more than five seasons, so such a base should not be installed under permanent greenhouses.

Materials used for covering greenhouses

To cover a greenhouse or greenhouse, you can use glass, plastic film, or polycarbonate (translucent). Each of these materials has its own positive and negative characteristics, which must be taken into account when giving preference to one or another material.

Polyethylene film is one of the cheapest materials, but based on durability, the film cannot compete with glass and polycarbonate. The film, regardless of its quality, must be changed at least once every three years. When creating an arched arc greenhouse, a double layer of film is most often used, this provides the most comfortable conditions for the growth of various crops. The film is characterized by excellent light transmittance, but sunlight has a negative effect on the film, wearing it out and reducing light transmittance. Condensation often forms on the inside of the film.

Glass is traditionally used to create greenhouses and is characterized by durability and high levels of light transmission, providing excellent thermal insulation. When using glass to create greenhouses, it is worth remembering that it heats up very quickly and is heavy. Glass is an expensive material, replacing it will not cost you very much.

Polycarbonate is a hard plastic that has characteristics such as transparency and a cellular structure. The distinctive features of the material are durability, impact resistance, and light transmittance. Polycarbonate flexible material, so it can be used to create tunnel or arch type greenhouses.

In some cases, other materials can be used. For example, you can find combined greenhouses in which the roof of the structure is covered with film, and the side parts of the frame are made of glass.

In what cases can you do without a foundation?

The foundation is the basis that allows you to ensure the proper level of stability of the structure, maintain its integrity, and the strength of the entire greenhouse. But today you can find various protected ground structures that do not require a foundation.

First of all, we're talking about about lightweight portable structures. They are distinguished by their low weight; such structures are protected from windage by fastening them to the ground using pegs. If we are talking about stationary greenhouses, then the arrangement of the foundation is mandatory, which allows you to create durable and stable structures.

Creation of diagrams and drawings

Before you start building a greenhouse or greenhouse on your own, you need to draw up a competent plan, draw drawings and diagrams of future buildings. The drawings of the future greenhouse can be anything. At the moment, you can find on the Internet diagrams of classic models of greenhouses created from wood back in the Soviet times, but there is also modern models, as well as diagrams of Mittleider's greenhouses.

When choosing a drawing for a future building, you should take into account the requirements that you will place on the greenhouse. In particular, it is worth taking into account the features of the materials used to construct the greenhouse, as well as the goals that you set for such a structure of protected soil.

You can create a diagram of the future structure yourself or use an option already developed by someone. If you don’t want to waste your time and effort, then it is preferable to use ready-made schemes; the main thing is to choose a scheme that will satisfy your needs.

Main stages of greenhouse construction

The process of creating a greenhouse or greenhouse yourself consists of several stages, and they must be performed in a certain sequence:

• it is necessary to select the type of structure;
• create a drawing and diagram or use ready-made drawings;
• creation of a structure frame;
• excavation work, which includes arrangement of the foundation, base for the frame;
• securing the supporting frame of the greenhouse;
• installation of greenhouse covering.

The specifics of each stage depend on the materials used, as well as on the future characteristics of the greenhouse, including its size, as well as the season in which it will be used.

Equipment

When creating a greenhouse, it is necessary to provide favorable conditions for the growth and development of plants; such a microclimate can be achieved through the use of specialized equipment for greenhouses. In order to ensure maximum productivity of grown crops and their quality, it is necessary to modernize greenhouses and greenhouses. Growing plants in greenhouses requires the use of systems for heating rooms, watering plants, if necessary, additional lighting, and systems that provide ventilation.

Using an irrigation system (subsoil, drip) makes it possible to save water and also reduces the cost of time and effort, relieving gardeners and summer residents from the need to water manually.

Heating in greenhouses can be organized in several ways; the choice of equipment used will depend on the existing communications system. At the moment, gardeners use stove, gas or electric heating greenhouses

Ventilation in a greenhouse is of great importance and affects plants regardless of the stages of their growth and development. Ventilation helps protect plants from overheating and ensures the necessary exchange of air in the greenhouse. In order to ensure natural ventilation, you can open doors and windows. If more intensive air circulation is required, it is necessary to install an exhaust or circulation fan.

Additional lighting must be used when growing seedlings. Such lighting will also be needed when growing any garden crops that are planted in regions with short daylight hours. The use of special lamps makes it possible to provide plants with the necessary level of illumination, especially early spring, in winter and in the last month of autumn.

Today, many gardeners and summer residents cannot imagine working on their plots without the use of greenhouses.

For the first time in our country, K. Timiryazev was able to grow plants using greenhouses. In 1872, he built a growing house on the territory of the Petrovsky Academy of Sciences, in which he grew various crops. This prototype of modern greenhouses gave impetus to the development and implementation of a wide variety of types of greenhouses, which make it possible to lengthen the fruiting period of plants and improve the quality of the harvest.

Purpose

Like a greenhouse, a greenhouse is used to create a favorable microclimate when preparing seedlings or when fully growing tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage and other plants.

In a broad sense, both structures are perceived as one and the same, although in fact a greenhouse is a small and unheated structure. A greenhouse is a larger building with a heating and ventilation system, which allows for the cultivation of many crops at any time of the year.

Design

The structure of greenhouses is quite simple. A frame is assembled from pipes, metal or wood, which is covered with film, polycarbonate, glass, acrylic and other light-penetrating materials. If the weight of the structure is very large, it is additionally installed on the foundation.

Provided for ventilation removable panels or opening transoms. Heating is carried out using water heating with radiators, infrared heaters or hot air from heat sources outside the greenhouse.

Installation

Since sunlight vital for plants, the greenhouse must be built on the south side. It is advisable to place it on a slope and closer to other buildings in order to protect it from the wind and have access to engineering communications. It is better to stay away from high fences and trees: they provide shade, and falling leaves reduce light transmission.

youtube.com

• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the frame can be replaced with plastic pipes, and the covering material with film.

The simplest design option, which is ideal for a small greenhouse. A frame made of reinforcement is installed directly on the bed, and agrofibre, or, as it is also called, spunbond, is stretched over it. This material protects from the sun while retaining heat and moisture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are chosen arbitrarily, depending on the footage of available materials. For example, it is convenient to cut six-meter reinforcement in half. With such a length of arcs, the width of the greenhouse is about 80 cm. The arcs themselves should be installed in increments of 1.2–1.5 m.

teplica-exp.ru

2. Arcs are bent from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. Next, tubes are put on them drip irrigation or an old hose, leaving 10–20 cm at each end so that it is convenient to insert the structure into the ground.

ebayimg.com

3. After marking the installation locations for the arcs, scraps of steel pipes or drilled wooden pegs 20–30 cm long are driven into the ground, and the reinforcement is inserted into them.

stopdacha.ru

4. Spunbond can be stitched onto sewing machine, forming pocket folds that fit directly onto the arches. Another option is to install guides on the sides of the bed from plastic pipe and attach agrofibre to them using purchased clips or cut pieces of pipes. The covering material can eventually be easily lifted by simply removing them.

stblizko.ru

5. If desired, you can attach the arcs not to pipes driven into the ground, but to metal guides rigidly fixed at the edges of the base. This design will allow you to fold the greenhouse like an accordion, simply by moving the arcs.

must.kz

6. The free ends of the spunbond at the ends must be collected, tied in a knot and secured with a peg, earth or other means.

samara.kinplast.ru

Here are step-by-step video instructions.

dachadecor.com

• Assembly difficulty: low.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: Instead of film, you can use agrofibre, and make the door on a wooden frame.

A budget option for a greenhouse made from masonry mesh and regular film, which is quickly assembled and has a number of advantages. The structure does not require a foundation; due to its elasticity, it is resistant to wind loads, and is also convenient for tying up plants from the inside. At the same time, by folding the mesh, you can get different sizes depending on your needs.

1. Wooden beams, steel angles, pipes or channels are used as load-bearing posts. They are hammered at a distance of 1.2–1.4 m.
2. The greenhouse arch is formed from two pieces of mesh laid overlapping. From below it is attached with wire to the posts, and from above it is fastened together with the same wire or plastic ties.
3. To strengthen the structure, T-shaped supports made of wooden beams 50 × 50 mm are installed in the middle of the passage. If desired, they can also be driven into the ground.
4. A film is put on a dome assembled from a mesh, which is held by strings of twine or rope stretched over it.
5. The side walls are also made of film, which is folded up and attached to the dome with tape. In several places at the top and bottom, small windows are cut for ventilation of the greenhouse.
6. The door is made on a wooden frame or made from the same film, which is cut and attached to the side wall with magnets in the manner of door mosquito nets.

stroydachusam.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

Another way to build a greenhouse on a quick fix. A wooden beam is used as a frame, and stretch packaging film is used as a covering material. With a large number of layers, it transmits light a little worse than ordinary PVC film, but on hot days this is even a plus.

1. The film is sold in rolls, so the dimensions of the greenhouse are selected according to the cutting of the timber and taking into account your wishes.
2. For the base, use steel corners 40 × 40 mm, in which holes for fastening the frame posts are pre-drilled. They can also be treated with bitumen or painted to extend their service life.
3. The corners are driven into the ground, and pieces of timber are screwed to them with self-tapping screws. A lower frame, in turn, is attached to the beam, on which the side walls and roof are assembled. All corners are reinforced with additional inclined sections of timber.
4. The door is assembled on a wooden frame in one of the side walls and installed on hinges.
5. Film wrapping is done in parts, in several layers and overlapping. First, the gables are installed, then the roof slopes, and only then the walls. You need to start wrapping them from the bottom so that running rainwater does not get inside the greenhouse.
6. After wrapping with glazing bead or river, the door is beaten and outer contour doors, and then the film around the frame is cut through. In the same way you can make a window in the opposite wall.

teplica-piter.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: minimal.
• Variations: You can combine frames with film to make a roof, side walls or doors.

The main advantage of this design is its low cost. Old window frames can be found, if not free, then for a nominal price. In addition, glass transmits light much more better than film and polycarbonate. The windows already have vents for ventilation, and if you select a balcony block, you will also have a ready-made door.

1. The size of the greenhouse depends on the size of the frames and the interior space you need. Aim for a width of about 2.5 m to give a passage of about 60 cm and two beds of 80–90 cm each.
2. Windows and glass have considerable weight, so it is advisable to install them on a solid base. It may be shallow strip foundation, solid wooden beam or metal profile.
3. A wooden frame or pillars are installed on the foundation at the corners, and frames are attached to them and to each other. The gaps between each block are covered with putty and clogged with strips of laminate backing or a thin wooden strip.
4. A door is made in the front wall. Its role can be played by one of the windows, balcony door or a wooden frame covered with film. Ventilation is provided through window vents.
5. To reduce weight, it is better to make the roof from wooden beams and film. You can use the same window frames, but in this case you will have to reinforce the structure with supports in the middle of the passage so that it can withstand a lot of weight.

maja-dacha.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate

A greenhouse made of polypropylene pipes attracts with its simplicity, reliability and low price. Materials are sold in any hardware store, and assembly does not require any special skills or tools. You can even do without a soldering iron if you connect the pipes not with fittings, but with through bolts.

1. As always, sizes are selected based on needs and available materials. Polypropylene pipe Usually sold in 4 m lengths, it is easy to cut and splice using couplings.
2. The first step is to calculate the length of the pipe and the number of fittings required. It’s better to take it with a reserve so that you don’t have to run to the store later.
3. The main parts are soldered from pipes, tees and crosspieces - arches with crossbars and longitudinal inserts.
4. Next, the greenhouse is assembled from the prepared parts. If a soldering iron is not at hand, you can use bolts with nuts and washers to connect, which are inserted into pipes drilled through.
5. The film is secured to the edges of the frame using purchased pipe clamps or homemade clips made from slightly larger diameter pipes cut along sections.

legkovmeste.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with agrofibre or polycarbonate.

A classic version of a greenhouse, used for decades and not losing popularity. Wooden beams are easy to process, have low weight and sufficient strength, and also retain heat well. The structure does not require a capital foundation - you can get by with a timber frame larger section or use steel corners as a base.

1. The standard cutting of timber is 6 m, so they start from this figure. Most often, greenhouses are made 3 × 6 m, but if desired, the dimensions can be either reduced or increased. Ready project with material calculations available at this link.
   
2. The assembly of the frame is the same as for a greenhouse made of stretch film. Steel corners are driven into the ground at intervals of about 1 m at the points where the posts are attached. In each of them, two holes are drilled for self-tapping screws or one for M8 or M10 bolts.
3. Vertical posts are fixed to the corners along the entire perimeter, which are tied with an upper contour made of timber. To add rigidity in the corners, one jib is added on each side
4. Triangular roof trusses are installed and secured opposite the racks. The slope angle is selected depending on the snow load. So, if there is a lot of snow in your region, the angle of inclination should be greater (the roof is higher and sharper).
5. The door and window for ventilation are assembled on wooden frames and installed in the front and rear walls, respectively.
6. At the end, the frame is covered with film, which is attached to the beam using a lath stuffed on top. All sharp parts on the wood are rounded off or covered soft material so that the film does not tear during operation.

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the foundation can be made of wooden beams or used driven into the ground steel reinforcement, corner or pipes.

The most popular and modern version of the greenhouse. This design is much more expensive than others and is difficult to manufacture, but it will last for decades. Polycarbonate can withstand the open sun for 10–12 years, and the frame made of a profile steel pipe is almost eternal.

1. Standard size polycarbonate - 2,100 × 6,000 mm, so it is convenient to cut it into four or two parts with dimensions of 2.1 × 1.5 m or 2.1 × 3 m, respectively. Such pieces will be optimal for a greenhouse measuring 3 × 6 meters.

2. For reliable fastening and distribution of wind loads, a foundation is made under the greenhouse. This can be a shallow strip foundation, a frame made of antiseptic-treated wooden beams, or steel corners driven into the ground.

YouTube channel of Evgeniy Kolomakin

3. The design of the greenhouse consists of an arch, which is formed using arcs from a profiled steel pipe 20 × 20 mm, located at a distance of one meter from each other.

4. The arcs are fastened together by longitudinal sections from the same pipe, which are connected by welding.

5. A door is installed at the front end: a frame measuring 1.85 × 1 m is welded from a pipe, which is attached to the frame on hinges. A window for ventilation measuring 1 × 1 m is made according to the same principle and is located at the rear end.

6. Covering with polycarbonate begins from the ends. The sheet is cut in half, attached to the profile using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers, and then trimmed along the contour of the arc with a sharp knife. After this, the side wall sheets are installed.

techkomplect.ru

• Assembly difficulty: average.
• Foundation: not required.
• Price: not tall.

Simpler and affordable option greenhouses made of polycarbonate. It does not use expensive metal pipe that needs to be welded. And galvanized profiles for plasterboard systems are used as frame material. They are easily cut with metal scissors and fastened with ordinary self-tapping screws.

1. When choosing sizes, as usual, we start from the parameters of polycarbonate sheets. Since the profiles lose rigidity when bent, it is better to choose a gable greenhouse rather than an arched one.
2. By analogy with the arcs from metal pipe The frame is made of galvanized profile and is assembled from ribs in the form of a house.
3. The assembled modules are installed on a frame made of wooden beams and tied together with sections of profiles. Doors and a window for ventilation are made in the front and rear walls.
4. At the end, the frame is sheathed with polycarbonate sheets, which are secured using special self-tapping screws with plastic thermal washers.

juliana.ru

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: necessary.
• Price: high.
• Variations: To make the structure lighter, you can make the top from polycarbonate or film.

The most correct, but rather labor-intensive and expensive option for a greenhouse. The main advantage of glass is excellent light transmittance and durability. However, due to the heavy weight of the structure, a strong metal frame and foundation are required. In addition to arranging a strip foundation, the difficulty also lies in the need to use welding.

1. When it comes to choosing sizes, a glass greenhouse is no exception - everything is strictly individual and taking into account the available materials.
2. The impressive weight of glass and metal frame requires a full foundation. Usually a trench 30 cm deep and 20 cm wide is dug around the perimeter, wooden formwork 20 cm high is installed on top and the whole thing is filled with concrete. Also, before pouring, the formwork is inserted inside anchor bolts for attaching the frame.
3. A metal channel or corner is attached to the resulting base using anchors. Then racks 1.6–1.8 m high are welded to this frame from two folded corners 45 × 45 mm. At the top they are fastened with longitudinal sections of the corner.
4. Next, rafters from the same double corners are placed on the resulting box. At the bottom they are welded to the posts, and at the top - to another corner, which acts as a ridge beam.
5. A door is inserted into one of the walls, and a window is installed in the lid or wall for ventilation.
6. The glass is installed in the frames obtained by using double corners and secured with homemade gluers - thin aluminum or steel plates bent in the shape of the letter Z. The gluer is attached to the corner with one hook, and to the glass with the second.

pinterest.com

• Assembly difficulty: high.
• Foundation: desirable.
• Price: high.
• Variations: the film can be replaced with polycarbonate or glass, and the frame can be made of profiles or pipes.

A domed or geodesic greenhouse attracts primarily with its unusual appearance: it consists entirely of many triangles and hexagons. Other advantages include high structural strength and best light transmittance. The geodesic dome has only one drawback: it is difficult to manufacture.

1. The dimensions of such a greenhouse are selected individually, based on the required area. Since the frame design is quite complex, calculations are the most time-consuming part of the project.
2. In order not to get confused and take into account all the nuances, it is convenient to carry out the calculation using a special calculator. In it you can set the dimensions, select the “thickness” of the frame and get a list of all necessary details for assembly with dimensions, as well as their approximate cost.
3. Regardless of its dimensions, a domed greenhouse is highly durable and is not afraid of winds, so there is no need to make a foundation for it. However, since the construction of a structure is very labor-intensive, it is rational to extend its service life and equip a lightweight strip foundation for attaching the frame.
4. The ribs of the structure consist of triangles, which, in turn, are assembled from wooden slats according to the template. First you need to prepare the required number of such triangles.
5. The greenhouse is assembled like a magnetic construction set from childhood. Starting from the bottom, rows of triangles are assembled one after another, which are fastened together using self-tapping screws and form a dome. If everything is calculated correctly, it will close at the top and will be perfectly shaped.
6. One of the triangles in the roof is made folding or removable to provide ventilation. The door is either installed in the shape of a polygon, or made traditional form with mortise box.
7. The film covers the finished dome or is stretched over each triangle at the assembly stage. In the first case, it will be easier to replace the film when it breaks. The second one gives a more aesthetic appearance. Which one to choose - decide for yourself.

• The protective layer on which the inscriptions are applied must be located with outside greenhouse
• To obtain the most durable structure, be sure (!) to pay attention to the location of the polycarbonate “honeycombs” - they should go only vertically, in inclined structures - parallel to the slope.
• When creating arches, keep in mind that polycarbonate sheets bend only in one direction - lengthwise, that is, along the line of the stiffeners.
• The joints of the sheets should be at the center of the frame post; the sheets are connected only in this way.
• This type of plastic is cut with a construction knife, jigsaw, or grinder. You can also use a hacksaw or a circular saw.
• To firmly connect the sheets to each other, special plastic profiles are used. Manufacturers do not recommend overlapping polycarbonate. In practice, when making a polycarbonate greenhouse with your own hands, it is not always possible to cut and fit the sheets perfectly. Some craftsmen even manage to do without connecting profiles, placing polycarbonate overlapping. The most important thing is that the joint must be in the center of the rack, and not sag in the air. Moreover, even with ideal installation, snow pressure can force the sheet out of the profile. In the case of overlap, this does not happen.
• It is not advisable to use a powerful drill for screwing in self-tapping screws - it will overtighten the fasteners and often slip off during operation. It is better to work with a regular screwdriver. Polycarbonate is drilled at low speeds with little effort. Next, turn off the tool, insert the screws and continue working.
• The distance between the screws to be screwed in is 25-70 cm. It all depends on the type of frame and the expected snow and wind load.
• When assembling polycarbonate structures, rivets are sometimes used instead of self-tapping screws. However, dismantling the greenhouse or replacing a damaged sheet in this case will be more difficult.
• When the temperature changes, plastic can change size. When making butt joints, a small space of a couple of millimeters in size is necessarily left between the sheets - a technological gap. Otherwise, cracks will form at the junction. For the same reason, the size of the holes for fasteners is made a little larger. To prevent the plastic from cracking, do not tighten them all the way.
• To compensate for expansion and protect against cold bridges, it is recommended to use special thermal washers for polycarbonate (screws are purchased separately). It is allowed to use EPDM roofing screws, equipped with a gasket or standard for metal with a rubber thermal washer, in which the thread has a small pitch.

In conditions of unfavorable climate and a relatively short summer season, the greenhouse becomes an indispensable assistant for the gardener. With its help, you can expand the boundaries of the growing season and get earlier and bountiful harvest. And with some effort and resources, the gardener will have the opportunity to grow crops all year round, regardless of the weather and outside temperature. Do-it-yourself greenhouse - what shape and what to build it from?

Creation of any structure, be it big house or a small greenhouse, begins with planning. The first step in this matter is choosing the design of the future building. There are many types of greenhouses, differing in their shape, complexity and cost of creation. What are they?

Table. Types of greenhouses that you can make yourself

Title, photo	Description
	A greenhouse, the cross-section of which has the shape of a semicircle or arch.
	The shape is similar to an arch, but more elongated and “pointed”.
	Classic version with a gable roof.
	It differs from a classic greenhouse in that the walls have a certain angle of inclination.
	A subtype of the classic one - the walls are vertical, and the roof has only one slope.
	It has no side walls, the roof starts almost from the ground level.
	It differs in that the roof slopes have different heights and slopes
	Most of the greenhouse is located underground - only the roof is above ground level.
	To save heat, the northern and side walls are made of solid construction and insulated.
	The building is in the form of a rounded dome, assembled from triangular cladding elements.
	Greenhouse in the form of a tetrahedral pyramid.

Now let's move on to a more detailed description.

Arched greenhouse in cross-section it has a semicircular or close to it shape. It is assembled from a set of arcs connected to each other by horizontal frame elements. One of the most common forms of greenhouses in the CIS. To make a frame of sufficient volume, not much material is required, which reduces the cost of the structure. Its low cost does not in any way affect its strength - a well-built arched greenhouse stands out due to its high resistance to snow and wind loads. And thanks to the arc-shaped shape, the sun's rays, regardless of the time of day, fall perpendicular to the cladding of the structure, as a result of less energy loss through reflection and refraction, the plants inside receive more light. The disadvantage of this design is that it is not so easy to make from metal or wood at home.

Important! There is one more drawback of arc-shaped greenhouses, but it is very subjective - not everyone likes the appearance of such buildings. Therefore, if you want to get a structure for growing plants that will also please your eyes, pay attention to other types of structures.

It is a development of buildings of the previous type. It has a rounded but more elongated shape, reminiscent of the end of an arrow. Compared to arched greenhouses, such a building is even more resistant to snow load– snow does not stay on a roof that is too steep. But finding ready-made drawings and making a lancet-shaped frame is even more difficult than an arched one.

By the way! In English-language sources and materials devoted to gardening, such greenhouses are known as gothic arch (or translated as “Gothic arch”).

Also known as classic or . Previously, a couple of decades ago, it was the most common design. It features acceptable illumination levels and large volumes. In addition, it is much easier to build - the frame of a classic greenhouse consists of straight metal or wooden elements. But the downside of such a design is the high consumption of material, which is reflected in the cost of the structure. In addition, the “house” requires supports and jibs that will protect the roof from being crushed by snow masses.

Also sometimes called "Dutch". It differs from the previous design in that its side walls are not located vertically, but at a certain angle. Due to this, more sunlight penetrates inside the plants. Requires a strong frame and a good ventilation system.

Lean greenhouse outwardly it looks like a “half” of a house, where only one slope remains of the roof. Similar option Most often it is built as a small extension to a house, barn or fence. Used for early growing seedlings for planting in open ground.

Are you planning to switch to cultivating plants indoors, but do not have enough experience in this matter? Are you planning to grow seedlings? Ask yourself these questions, and if the answer to at least one of them is “yes,” then it’s time for you to think about it.

Posted in right place, she gets the maximum solar energy, therefore the presence of vents here is mandatory, otherwise in hot weather the plants will simply overheat. It is relatively simple to build, but the useful internal volume leaves much to be desired. Often part of the building is located below ground level.

Created by the horticultural expert of the same name and Doctor of Agricultural Sciences. It differs from a classic or arched building in that the slopes or halves of the roof have different heights. A vertical wall is formed between them, where a series of vents are mounted. As a result, the greenhouse achieves the most effective ventilation and air circulation, which has a positive effect on plant productivity.

It differs from a regular greenhouse in that the level of the slopes is different - one of them, facing the north side, is higher, and the southern one, on the contrary, is lower. In the middle, at the junction of the slopes, there is a vertical wall with transoms along the entire length of the greenhouse.

It is created with the expectation of maximum accumulation of solar energy and maintaining the optimal temperature for crop growth even during the most severe winter cold. To do this, the building is immersed in the ground up to the roof, which acts as a kind of heat insulator. Main problem Such a greenhouse requires enormous labor costs during construction due to the need to dig a foundation pit of impressive size. In addition, the structure needs good protection from groundwater.

This is another example of the implementation of the idea of ​​saving heat in a building. To do this, the northern side of the building is made of solid brick, timber or other material and is insulated from the outside. Inside the greenhouse, in addition to plants, there are bags of gravel and other objects that accumulate heat during the day and then release it in the evening and at night. As a result, the gardener receives a building in which he can grow vegetables even in winter and with minimal heating costs. Further, in one of the sections of the article, special attention will be paid to a greenhouse with solid walls and a solar battery.

Exotic and rather rare types of do-it-yourself greenhouses are buildings in the form of and. The cost of their construction is many times higher than structures of classical forms, but at the same time they have an unusual appearance and outstanding qualities in terms of accumulating solar heat and providing a microclimate inside.

In addition to the shape, greenhouses differ in the period of operation and are divided into two types.

1. Seasonal– simple structures without any heating systems. Used from spring to autumn, they allow you to “push” the boundaries of the summer season.
2. or winter - built and equipped taking into account work in the cold season, capable of providing optimal conditions for the growth and ripening of agricultural crops even in subzero temperatures outside.

Now let’s move on from the structures and forms of buildings to the materials from which they are created. First, let's look at the frame - the basis of any greenhouse.

Frame materials

There are three main groups of materials from which the greenhouse frame is made:

• wood;
• metal;
• polyvinyl chloride

The most commonly used timber is rectangular and square section. Despite its average cost, it is highly technologically advanced - working with such material using ordinary household tools is very simple. With proper assembly and use of supports, struts and jibs, the frame made of timber is very strong and reliable.

Wooden square beam

Important! The main enemies of wood are mold and rot. This problem is solved by two measures. First - choice quality timber made of larch, a type of wood that is extremely resistant to rot. The second is the treatment of frame blanks with 2-3 layers of antiseptic impregnation.

When choosing timber for the greenhouse frame, be sure to pay attention to the following things.

1. Humidity – the wood must be properly dried, otherwise the greenhouse frame will shrink seriously after construction.
2. The presence of a large number of knots is undesirable.
3. Wood fibers should not have serious defects.
4. Individual pockets of mold are not allowed.
5. The timber for the greenhouse frame must match in size and straightness.

Due to the characteristics of the material and the fact that creating bent parts from wood with your own hands is a complex and labor-intensive process with a high percentage of defects, timber is rarely used when creating arched or lancet greenhouses. At the same time, it is excellent for buildings of classical shape.

The next material for the greenhouse frame is metal. It is represented by many types of steel and aluminum profiles. The most popular is a profiled pipe with a cross-section of 20x20 mm or more. With a relatively low weight and low cost, it is highly durable. In addition, if there is a high-quality zinc coating or powder coating, the profiled pipe is durable and resistant to corrosion. Fastening of frame elements made of this material is done using self-tapping screws, welding, nuts and bolts and special crab-type connectors.

Important! The production of bent frame parts for an arched greenhouse from a profiled pipe is possible using homemade machine, which is easy to assemble.

In addition to this, from metal products The corner profile, plasterboard ceiling profile and W-shaped roofing profile are very popular. They are even lighter and more convenient to process, but the downside of this advantage is less strength and low resistance of the finished structure to snow loads.

And the last group of materials for the manufacture of greenhouse frames is polyvinyl chloride pipes and profiles. They are quite flexible and cheap, easy to use, store and transport. Polyvinyl chloride frame is suitable for light summer small greenhouses.

Prices for profile pipes

profile pipes

Sheathing for a greenhouse built by yourself

From above, the frame of the greenhouse is covered with transparent material, allowing a significant portion of sunlight to pass through.

The following is used as cladding:

• glass;
• film;

Several decades ago, glass was the main material used in the construction of greenhouses, greenhouses and conservatories. It has high light transmittance and does not react with chemical compounds. Also, glass is not subject to any corrosive effects and is characterized by high durability - a frame made of wood or metal will quickly become unusable. But the latter benefit is debatable - the material is also known to be brittle, and any stone or thick branch can turn durable glass into a pile of sharp shards. Therefore, in recent decades it has been replaced by transparent polymers.

One of the representatives of such materials is polyethylene film. If you were looking for something very cheap to cover the frame for one season, film is your choice. But keep in mind that the material is short-lived and fragile.

Important! There are individual species polyethylene film with reinforcement. It gives the material strength, increases its service life and resistance to wind.

The third material for greenhouse cladding is cellular polycarbonate. It's relative inexpensive material with high impact strength - in a situation where the glass breaks, the polycarbonate will only wrinkle or receive several small cracks. In addition, it is lightweight and very flexible, making it ideal for greenhouses with rounded frame elements. The presence of honeycombs filled with air gives polycarbonate the best thermal insulation among all cladding materials.

As for the disadvantages, they are as follows:

• gradual destruction of material under the sun;
• the need to take into account during installation the significant expansion of polycarbonate when heated;
• Without protection of the ends, the polycarbonate cells will quickly fill with dirt, condensation and mold, the material will bloom and become unusable.

To create a greenhouse with your own hands, it is important to choose the right high-quality polycarbonate. An important criterion the manufacturer must be in the selection. There is no need to chase cheap prices and buy Chinese materials. Proven quality polycarbonate manufacturer domestic market- Kinplast company. Its assortment offers several brands of cellular polycarbonate: WOGGEL - a premium material created in collaboration with European colleagues; SKYGLASS – represents ideal price-quality ratio; AgroTITANIUM and polycarbonate SPECIAL FOR GREENHOUSES - designed for creating greenhouses and hothouses, helps create an optimal microclimate for plants, and has an affordable price.

Video - Making a greenhouse with your own hands from A to Z

Prices for cellular polycarbonate

cellular polycarbonate

Do-it-yourself greenhouse with a permanent wall and heat accumulation

Winter greenhouses with the ability to grow seedlings, vegetables and berries even in cold weather have been known to gardeners for a very long time. But they have one significant drawback - high heating costs. How to solve this problem? Firstly, it is necessary to limit the loss of such valuable heat. For this purpose, in the greenhouse presented below, the northern half is allocated as a utility room, and between it and the beds there is a solid wall covered with mineral wool. In addition, the building is equipped with a heat accumulator.

This battery is a network of fairly thick pipes laid underground and with outlets to the outside. During the day, sunlight warms the soil in the greenhouse, which does the same to the air in the pipes. At night, the temperature in the greenhouse drops. Warm air, obeying the laws of physics, rushes upward, cold - down into the pipes. There it warms up from the soil, the cycle repeats, the circulation of air masses begins, the temperature in the greenhouse remains within limits suitable for seedlings and plants.

Let's look at the construction of such a structure in the form of step-by-step instructions.

Step 1. A site is selected, measurements and delineations are made. A pit with a depth of 30 to 70 cm is dug, its walls and bottom are leveled. To speed up the process when building a large greenhouse, it is advisable to use special equipment.

Step 2. Formwork for the strip foundation is constructed along the edges of the pit.

Step 3. Concrete is poured inside the formwork and a strip foundation is created.

Step 4. The bottom of the pit inside the perimeter is covered with thermal insulation.

Step 5. Horizontal pipelines are laid on top of the thermal insulation to ensure air circulation.

Step 6. The ends of the air ducts are arranged, everything inside the foundation is covered with earth.

Step 7 The frame of the northern and side walls of the greenhouse is being constructed. Instead of wood, you can use brick or concrete blocks.