Installation of metal siding does not require special skills or the use of sophisticated equipment. The process consists of successive stages; to achieve a high-quality result, it is necessary to take into account some rules and recommendations. If you follow the sequence of actions, the cladding of the house will be reliable and durable, and the facade will become attractive appearance.

When covering, a number of factors need to be taken into account:

Required materials and tools

To install metal siding you will need the following:

Tools needed for siding walls

For best result a subsystem for metal siding can be used. It is designed specifically for fixing panels and includes a number of elements: a bracket, an L-shaped strip and a Z-profile used for horizontal cladding.

Technology for working with such a subsystem: brackets are fixed to the wall, on which the L-profile is fixed. The design is suitable for vertical installation; for horizontal installation, Z-bars are mounted on top.

Preparatory work

Before installing the main covering, it is necessary to carry out a number of previous activities:

At the same time, the missing tools and materials are being prepared.

Construction of sheathing

When deciding how to properly cover a house with metal siding, take into account what is the simplest and most affordable option is to create a frame from standard elements.

Wooden

Due to the fact that a properly fixed sheathing is a guarantee of the reliability and durability of the coating, the work must be approached very responsibly. Step-by-step algorithm of actions:

1. To install the frame, a beam with a section of 50*40 or 50*50 is used. The material is pre-treated with antiseptics and fire retardants.
2. The surface is being marked. The main posts should be placed perpendicularly facing panels. Lines are drawn in increments of 50–60 cm.
3. After drying, the timber is drilled out for screws. The pitch of the mounting holes is from 20 to 40 cm. These fixing points are transferred to the previously marked lines. Using a puncher, holes are drilled for dowels according to the marks.
4. The racks are aligned and pre-fixed, after which the beam is leveled and substrates are placed under it. Final fixation is carried out.
5. For greater convenience, corner posts are set using a plumb line and a level. A cord is stretched between them, allowing you to quickly align the remaining elements.

For device wooden sheathing carefully processed and dried timber is used

The resulting gaps between the wall and the timber are carefully filled polyurethane foam. This will eliminate the appearance of “cold bridges” after laying the thermal insulation material.

Metal

Do-it-yourself lathing from metal profiles is erected according to the following scheme:

1. Marking is being carried out. Installation lines are drawn in increments of 50–60 cm. When working with a base, 35–50 cm.
2. The hanging frame elements are being fastened. To do this, holes are drilled at a distance of 35–45 cm according to the markings, hangers are attached to self-tapping screws and dowels and bent to the desired shape.
3. The corner segments are positioned first and carefully aligned along the plane. A cord is stretched between them to align the remaining racks.

The alignment of the metal frame racks is done using a cord that is pulled between the corner profiles

Carrying out work on assembling the frame requires accuracy; all parts must be placed exactly level and form a single plane.

Note! Regardless of the method of creating the sheathing, windows and doorways are faced separately. The racks are placed along their perimeter, forming a closed system connected to the main fragments.

VIDEO:

Hydro- and thermal insulation of walls

Covering a house with metal siding often involves additional insulation. Suitable for this various materials, but the most accessible and preferable for self-installation are mineral wool or penoplex (an improved version of polystyrene foam).

Thermal insulation and waterproofing are carried out as follows:

Note! If a façade is installed with ventilation gap, then on wooden frame the rail is mounted strictly along the beam required thickness, and for metal - a Z-profile or a similar element.

Panel installation

Step by step instructions:

• The tide is set. It is necessary if there are protruding areas of the base.
• The starting profile is laid. If the part is located together with the drain, then it is leveled and secured directly above the ebb.

Installation starting bar: with and without low tide

• When fixing from below, the initial fragment must be installed according to a certain pattern:
  • Leave the ground or blind area short distance. An initial line is marked, from which 40 mm are retreated upward (for standard planks).
  • Corner elements are attached. The starting part should be at a distance of 5–10 mm from them. If it is intended to be mounted flush, then internal sections are cut out in the corner segments.
  • Screws are screwed into the center of the existing holes. The profile is carefully checked for level.
  • The joining of fragments is carried out with a gap of 6–10 mm.

• External and internal angles are set. Since such parts are not always available, a J-profile can be used as an alternative. You can trim the corners with simple decorative trims.

• If the size of the siding is not enough or decoration is being done, connecting strips (H-profile) are used.

• The edges of the panel are inserted around the corner or corner and the connecting profile and lowered until they meet the starting element. The part is fixed through the existing holes. The entire area is sheathed in a similar way. Each connecting node is checked for level.
• At the final stage, a finishing strip or J-profile is installed on top, depending on the situation. If the panel is trimmed, then notches are made along its edge, extending into the installed profile and ensuring the reliability of the fastener.

The final stage of covering a house with metal siding is the installation of the finishing strip into which last panel

If it is necessary to sheathe the roof overhangs, then a soffit is used.

You should know! Decorating the house metal L-beam, the components are arranged in reverse, since installation is performed from top to bottom.

VIDEO:

Window and door decoration

Window and door openings can be lined from the outside in several ways, identical for all structures.

The first option is the simplest: the siding is cut and fixed along the edge of the installed frame parts, solid strips are attached to the top and bottom, a flashing is installed, and slopes made of a suitable material are installed.
You can make such a design using siding components. To do this, first a profile is laid on the inside, and a window strip on the outside.

In a similar way, work can be done using platbands, which are installed when the opening is shallow. They must be secured along the outer part, having previously cut off the corners at 45 degrees. Then you should assemble the structure framing the opening.

Recently, in the cladding of both brick and wooden houses use siding, so many will be interested in how to assemble siding with their own hands.

Siding – modern material, which allows you to quickly and inexpensively clad the outside of any building and give it a beautiful and neat appearance.

The use of siding began at the beginning of the last century in Canada and America.

They made siding from wood and lined it mainly with frame houses that were popular there.

Today siding is produced from the most different materials– steel, aluminum, vinyl.

The most popular and affordable option is vinyl siding, which can look like stone, brick, wood or logs.

It is made from polyvinyl chloride and various plasticizers, making the material very strong and durable.

How to install siding correctly, watch the video:

To properly clad a house with this material, you need to know its main characteristics. What are the pros and cons of vinyl siding?

• this material does not rot, does not get wet from moisture, and does not rust;
• the weight of the siding is very small, so the finishing of the building will not bear any load on the foundation and walls;
• installation is quite simple, so you can attach it with your own hands and in a short time;
• does not fade in the sun;
• the service life is very long, manufacturers give a fifty-year guarantee for this material;
• This coating can be attached to any surface - brick, wood, cinder block, sandstone and more.

• this is a flammable material, and even though manufacturers have recently introduced fire-fighting components into siding, it still remains flammable;
• at very low temperatures becomes brittle, begins to crumble, if you live in a region where in winter the temperature often drops to -20 degrees and below, it is not advisable to use siding there;
• It is also not advisable to mount the material on walls at temperatures below 10 degrees, as it becomes brittle.

Types of siding

Log siding. Log panels and boards have been very popular lately.

The log can have a variety of shades, everyone can choose the finish to their taste.

Houses finished with log siding look very natural and natural.

Log panels will fit perfectly into the design of a summer house or country house.

If you are building a country-style house or an alpine house, then a log will be an excellent design option.

Stone siding. Stone siding will make your home respectable and sophisticated.

Panels that imitate stone are used for cladding both the entire house and only its lower part - the foundation.

Stone siding can be combined with other panels - brick or log siding.

Some experts combine two or three types of stone-effect panels to decorate one house, obtaining very unusual solutions.

Stone siding can be painted different colors, and also depict the texture of different stones - granite, marble, sandstone, tuff.

Brick siding. This version of the panels can be used for both small cottages and large country houses.

Such panels are also made in various color solutions. Combinations of brick panels with stone panels look beautiful.

Technology of wall cladding with siding

The material is produced in strips whose width is 20–25 cm and length up to 4 m.

Before you begin work on cladding your house, you should calculate the amount of material you need to purchase.

A preliminary calculation will help you save on the amount of siding and fittings and not purchase too much.

Manufacturers of this material also offer for purchase the necessary fittings and fasteners that will be useful for cladding.

Preparing the walls

The big advantage of this cladding is that the walls of the house do not need to be prepared for work in any way.

If you are installing siding on metal frame or lathing, then the surface of the wall can be anything.

Before installing the coating, remove dirt from the surface of the walls, old cladding, as well as all protruding elements - platbands, baseboards, gutters, lamps, cornices.

If there are potholes, cracks or large irregularities on the wall, they should first be leveled with cement mortar.

If you do not do this, moisture will collect in cracks and holes, which will freeze in winter and lead to even greater destruction of the walls of the house.

If the house is built of wood, then its walls need to be cleaned of fungus and mold, and then the wood must be treated with a special protective antiseptic deeply penetrating agent, which will protect the wood from damage by rot and fungus.

Preparing walls for installation with your own hands is shown in the video in the section.

Installation of sheathing

When the walls of a house visually look quite smooth, many people wonder whether lathing is needed in this case, or whether it is possible to attach the siding directly to the walls.

Experts say that the sheathing should always be fastened.

The lathing is used to fasten the panels. The appearance of the cladding will directly depend on the quality of the sheathing.

Before you attach the frame, you need to check how smooth walls you have.

Sheathing also becomes necessary if you want to not only clad the building, but also insulate it.

To attach the material to the wall, a lath is erected, for which it is used metal profile or wooden slats.

The metal frame is made from aluminum profile, and wooden from beams from 20 to 40 mm.

The wood for the frame must be treated with a special antiseptic.

If you have chosen for yourself wooden version frame, then the length of the beam should be greater than the height of the walls.

This way there will be no need to connect the beams together, which will make the structure even more durable.

The beams for the frame must be well dried so that after the construction of the frame and its cladding the beams do not become deformed.

Wood humidity can be no higher than 12 - 15%. Using low-quality wood can cause the cladding to bend and crack over time.

Therefore, it is still better, despite the high cost, to make a metal frame.

You should know that for basement siding in any case, you need to use a metal frame, since this part of the frame is close to the ground and moisture.

You can watch the installation of the frame yourself in our video.

If the frame is metal, then you need to purchase a galvanized SD profile with stiffening ribs; there should be bends and depressed points on its sides, which increases its strength.

Galvanization thickness is from 0.4 to 0.55.

The lathing is attached to the walls in a vertical direction. Using a square and a water level, you need to check whether the sheathing is properly secured.

Installation begins with a corner vertical guide from the left corner of the house.

Sheathing should also be installed around windows and doors. In addition, additional slats are also attached for drains, various communications, and lighting fixtures.

In the process of do-it-yourself cladding, most often the walls, gables and base are also insulated and waterproofed, for which glass wool, stone wool or polystyrene foam is placed between the frame guides.

It is important to know that the insulated space between the cladding and the wall must be well ventilated.

Ventilation is needed to prevent rotting under the siding. Therefore, when laying insulation, ventilated channels should also be laid.

Attaching siding to sheathing

When installing the coating on the walls with your own hands, the base and pediment of the building, you should adhere to the basic rules.

First of all, you should take into account the property of the material to expand in heat and contract at sub-zero temperatures.

If you are attaching the material in winter, then you need to leave a gap of 8 - 10 mm between the panels for expansion. In summer the gap can be 6 mm.

To attach the siding to the frame, use special fastening fittings:

• corner strips for external and internal corners;
• load-bearing bar, which is installed below;
• profiles covering the uneven edges of the panels serve as decoration;
• profiles for finishing windows and doors, flashings;
• fittings for gable cladding – flexible profiles for windows, chamfers, soffits.

The panels themselves and all accompanying fittings must be attached to galvanized self-tapping screws.

They need to be screwed loosely into the panel; there should be a distance of 11 mm between the cap and the surface of the siding. This gap allows the material to expand when heated.

You need to start attaching the strips from bottom to top if you are using horizontal siding, and from left to right for vertical cladding.

When you attach vinyl siding with your own hands, you need to hear a characteristic click, which indicates that the panel is installed tightly and securely.

Do-it-yourself siding installation on video.

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How to attach siding to a wooden house - 7 installation steps for home handyman

Exterior decoration is one of the important components when building any house, including a wooden one. Now, according to statistics, about half of the owners give preference different types siding, because installing such cladding with your own hands is a realistic task for most home craftsmen, and then together we will go through all 7 stages of finishing a house with siding, plus I will talk about the types of material and prices for it.

We choose siding and purchase components

The very concept of siding implies a typesetting cladding that is mounted on a frame. But such cladding can be made from different materials and each of them has its own pros and cons.

Briefly about the types of siding

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Vinyl cladding. PVC cladding is lightweight, waterproof and quite durable, and most importantly the price is quite affordable. But plastic breaks easily, and cheap models also fade in the sun. The price for domestic material starts from 150 rubles. 1 m², for imported ones - from 250 rubles. 1 m².
	Acrylic strips. Roughly speaking, acrylic is a type of plastic. Compared to PVC, it practically does not fade and can withstand extremely low temperatures. But the price for acrylic is one and a half times higher.
	Fiber cement.
	Steel. Galvanized steel sheet with polymer coating is great option. The coating is durable and reliable; if it is not scratched, this finish will last at least 50 years. The price here starts from 600 rubles. for 1 m².
	Aluminum. Manufacturers position aluminum cladding as one of the most durable. Light metal, which is not afraid of corrosion, will last longer than a wooden house, but its price starts from 1200 rubles. for 1 m².
	Wood siding. In fact, this is a type of lining. Most often, the planks are decorated to look like a rounded log (block house) or timber. The material is beautiful, but expensive, with good impregnation and varnishing the price can reach up to 2000 rubles. for 1 m².

For self-finishing wooden house Plastic (PVC or acrylic) and steel siding are best. Fiber cement is heavy, and aluminum and wood are very expensive.

A few words about calculations

Calculating how many panels you need is quite simple. The area of ​​the façade is calculated and 10% is added to it for trimming and scrap. Counting often causes difficulties required quantity accessories, that is, guides, docking modules, etc. Here it is best to draw up a detailed sketch and calculate from it.

If the facade is of the correct shape and without any special architectural frills, then up to 10% of the material is spent on trimming. On complex facades, the minimum tolerance for trimming is 15%.

Tool and material

Self-installation of siding requires the availability of tools; the photo below shows the minimum set.

In addition to the above tools, you will definitely need a hydraulic level. It is a transparent hose with graduated flasks at the ends and works on the principle of communicating vessels.

• As for materials, the panels themselves make up only part of the overall set. Installing siding is impossible without a whole arsenal of fittings. The diagram below shows all the necessary elements;

• Typically, insulation is installed under such cladding. It is not advisable to install polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam on the facade of a wooden house, since they are vapor-tight. Mineral wool slabs are best suited here;

• We will also need to purchase a diffusion vapor-permeable membrane, we will use it to protect mineral wool from moisture.

Seven stages of covering a house with siding

Finishing begins with the assembly of the frame, then the insulation is installed and the walls are sheathed with siding, and on last stage roof gables and other small elements are being installed.

Stage No. 1. Select a frame

Siding can be hung on wooden slats and on a metal profile. It is easier to work with wooden slats, plus this material is cheaper. But the metal profile is more reliable, and most importantly, the metal is not subject to deformation and can withstand any type of siding, regardless of its weight and dimensions.

If we talk about wooden slats, the cross-section is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. After that, the first layer is filled with horizontal sheathing for insulation and the insulation is inserted.

In areas with cold winters, insulation can be sewn in 2 layers, as in the diagram above, in middle lane In Russia, 1 layer 50–70 mm thick is often enough. Next, a vapor barrier and vertical sheathing for installing siding are attached to the insulated wall.

I always recommend making lathing from metal profiles. The instructions there are not much more complicated than when working with wood, but metal is more reliable and even if you have never encountered this, within an hour you will understand the principle of assembly.

• On initial stage Perforated hangers are attached to the wall. IN wooden house they are screwed on with self-tapping screws. We will then attach metal profiles under the siding to the hangers, so we make markings in increments of 40 – 60 cm, strictly vertically;

• Now we make slots in the insulation slabs for the “wings” of the hangers and put the slabs on the hangers. And we lay it on top of the insulation vapor barrier membrane, after which you can begin attaching CD profiles to hangers;

• The profiles are screwed with special self-tapping screws (fleas), and the wings of the suspensions are either bent or cut off. A separate edging is made from a CD profile for windows and doors;

• A separate frame of profiles is also installed under the slopes for windows and doors, which is connected to a single frame.

Stage No. 2. J-profile fastening

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Starting point. The starting points are located in the corners and are determined using a hydraulic level.
	Marking. We screw the screws into the starting points and stretch the marking cord between them; At the same time, we mark the boundaries of the installation of the corner profile.
	J-profile fastening. Now, along the entire perimeter of the house, the starting profile is attached to the frame slats with self-tapping screws. The gap between the profile sections is about 12 mm, and between the starting and corner profiles is 6 mm. PVC is subject to temperature deformation and gaps must be left everywhere. Metal siding is also deformed, but much less, so the tolerances there are no more than 5 mm.
	Advice. In order not to make indents from the corner profiles, you can simply cut off the fastening strips in them.

Remember - when attaching any type of siding, screws or nails cannot be driven tightly. A gap of about 1 mm is left under the cap. The elements must hang on self-tapping screws. Plus, nails or screws are driven into the center of the hole.

Stage No. 3. Arrangement of external corners

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Fastening. The corner element, first of all, is consistent with the under-roof soffit. There should be 3 mm from it to the soffit; The top screws are driven in first, then all the rest go at intervals of about half a meter; The bottom edge of the corner element is lowered by 6 mm starting profile.
	Docking. If the height of the house is more than 3 m, then you will have to join the elements together. To do this, the fastening strips are cut off from the upper element by 25 mm, after which it is overlapped onto the lower element. When joining the upper and lower elements, a gap of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips.
	Alternative option. To save money, you can use 2 starting profiles instead of a corner profile. In this case, it is advisable to glue the joint between the profiles and lay a waterproofing gasket underneath them.

Stage No. 4. Internal corners

The technology for installing internal corners is practically no different from installing external ones. All tolerances are left exactly the same. But there are 3 arrangement options here.

If necessary, the inner corner is also overlapped. The arrangement rules here are similar to external docking.

Stage No. 5. Arrangement of windows and doors

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Docking at right angles. If the window is flush with the wall, then it is framed with starting profiles. Profiles can be joined with cutting at right angles and at an angle of 45º.
	Corner connection. The pruning here is not much more difficult, but the appearance is better.
	Starting the panel. You just need to cut out the panels according to the size of the window and add them to the starting profiles.
	Slopes. If the slopes are small, then they are arranged using starting and finishing profiles. On deep slopes, more panels are inserted between these profiles.

Stage No. 6. Attach the panels

The first panel is inserted into the lower starting profile and screwed or nailed to the sheathing guides. Subsequent panels cling to the groove of the previous ones and are also nailed.

If you work in the summer, then in the heat you need to leave a gap of 5–6 mm everywhere. IN winter period the same gap should be about 9 mm.

Side joining is correctly performed using an H-profile, but to save money, you can trim the fastening strips and let the sheets overlap.

If you are going to do everything as expected, then you will have to mount H-profiles at the joints and, observing all the gaps, join the planks through them. This is certainly correct, but not everyone likes such a noticeable connection.

Stage No. 7. Roof

In order to properly connect the outer planks with the profile, it is often necessary to make special hooks. To do this you will need a punch.

We attach a starting profile under the soffit, after which we trim the end strip taking into account the tolerances and make a series of hooks along the cut with a punch.

To cover the front board and soffit, in addition to the starting profile, a J-chamfer is also used. The technology is shown in the diagram.

The pediment itself is sheathed in almost the same way as the walls, with the only difference being that too much material is spent on trimming.

Vinyl siding- a fairly simple material so that you can work with it yourself. We provide step-by-step illustrated instructions for self-installation.

Siding is installed either directly on the walls of the house or on pre-installed sheathing. If lathing is planned, then installing it yourself will also be the first stage of siding installation.

Siding installation

The entire installation process with your own hands or by workers can be divided into the following installation stages:

We mark and attach the starting J-profiles

When installing siding yourself, especially for the first time, it is better to invest as much time in starting profiles as needed.

Using a building level, determine the lowest point on the lathing, make an indent 5 cm up from it and make a mark on the lathing with a shallowly screwed screw (Fig. 1).

Rice. 1: Starting profiles must be installed strictly horizontally

As you move around the house, continue to mark with screws at the corners of the house where the starting J-profiles are attached - until you return to the first mark.

If everything is measured accurately, the start and finish points will coincide!

Pull the cords onto the screw-marks screwed into the corners (Fig. 1).

Mark the boundaries of the location of the corner profiles on the laths - attach the profile itself to the corner of the sheathing and mark the edges with a pencil (Fig. 2).

Moving along the cord, leave a horizontal space of 6 mm from the border of the corner profiles, attach the J-profiles to the slats.

Do not forget about the technological gap of 10-12 mm between the profiles so that they do not touch during temperature changes.

There should also be a gap between the profiles and nail strips (Fig. 3).

If desired, instead of a 6 mm indentation, you can trim the nail strips with metal scissors so that they do not rest against the starting profile during temperature changes (Fig. 4).

Very important: when working with your own hands, pay maximum attention to ensure that the starting profiles are installed strictly horizontal!

A filled level during DIY installation will result in a number of siding panels also being skewed. Correcting this situation will be very difficult and may result in a violation of installation technology.

It is better to spend any amount of time maintaining the horizontal level of profiles - the time spent will pay off!

Installation of external corner profiles

Before installing the outside corners, install or mark the soffit so you can see where the edges will go.

Attach the profile to the corner of the sheathing so that the distance to the roof or soffit is 3 mm and secure it by installing a self-tapping screw at the top of the mounting hole on both sides.

The corner profile will be suspended with a distance of 3 mm from the soffit; the lower edge of the profile should be positioned 6 mm below the starting profile (Fig. 5).

Check the verticality a couple of times and, if everything is in order, secure the bottom, and then the rest of the fasteners. We recommend not placing fasteners too often in the corner profile.

2 potential issues with DIY installation:

• The height of the house exceeds 3 meters - the profile is shorter
• What if the house has protruding parts (like a basement or porch)?

If you need a length greater than 3 meters: the profiles will have to be overlapped; to do this, cut the top profile so that there is a gap of 9 mm between the fastening strips of the joining profiles, and the overlap of the profiles is 25 mm (Fig. 6).

Important: the joints of the profiles are made at the same level on all sides of the facade!

If the base protrudes: everything is simple - the profile needs to be shortened so that it does not reach the 6 mm base.

2 J-profiles (starting profiles) can be used instead of a special corner one - this will help save money when installing it yourself. The disadvantage of this solution is that the corner will be less sealed from precipitation - it is better to glue the surface of the wall behind this corner with a strip roll waterproofing(Fig. 7).

Installation of internal corner profiles

On the internal corners, the profiles are mounted in the same way as on the external ones - leave a gap of 3 mm to the soffit at the top, and make the lower end 6 mm below the strut profile.

A 6 mm indentation must remain before the protruding element below, if there is one (for example, a protruding plinth).

In the case of a protruding element at the bottom, the internal corner profile should not rest against it - there should be a gap of 6 mm.

There are 3 options for making internal corners:

If the wall is higher than 3 m, the profiles on the internal corners are spliced ​​absolutely identical to the external ones - this is very easy to do with your own hands.

A space of 9 mm is left between the fastening strips (excess vinyl is removed using metal scissors), the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fasteners are placed every 40 mm, in the center of the mounting holes, fasteners at the highest point are placed in the upper part of the mounting hole.

Installation of opening frames

When installing siding with your own hands, the framing of openings usually raises the most questions. Let's consider 2 installation options:

• Openings are in the same plane with the walls or protrude from the walls
• The openings are in the niches of the walls

If window or door openings are in the same plane with a facade, starting J-profiles or platbands are attached to them.

You must first waterproof the openings!

You will need 2 horizontal and 2 vertical trims per opening. To calculate the size of the platband, take the length of the side of the opening and increase it by twice the height of the platband - this additional distance will be required so that the platbands are beautifully and imperceptibly connected at the junction points.

The profiles (platbands) are connected as follows (Fig. 9):

• Make bridge cuts on the top profile on both sides (which are equal to its height)
• Bend these bridges down - precipitation and moisture should flow along them from the upper profile to the lower one
• Remove any pieces of vinyl on the side profiles that interfere with the connection to the top
• Connect the top and side profiles (the bent bridges will be inside the profiles)

The lower casing is connected in the same way, only the bridges are cut and bent not on the lower, but on the side profiles in order to put them on the lower profile.

If the facade and the framed opening are in the same plane, then the cut pieces of vinyl are folded inside the lower profile or simply removed.

If the framed opening, on the contrary, is recessed, then when installing the window profile with your own hands, adhere to the same principles as with the platband - cuts are made in the profile equal to the depth of the opening niche, which are folded and inserted into the finishing profiles (Fig. 10-12).

In order not to get confused when installing siding with your own hands, it is important to understand the meaning of bending such tabs - they should always cover the joint of the profiles, so that moisture flows through them and didn't get inside. This logic will help evaluate the correctness of the connection.

Installation of the first panel

When installing siding with your own hands, installing the first panel requires maximum attention, just like installing the starting profile.

We recommend that you start installing siding (especially with your own hands) from the least visible side of the house - in order to get the hang of it and work out possible mistakes.

The panel is inserted into the lock of the starting strip and into the corner profile - it is necessary to leave 6 mm of space to the bottom of the lock of the corner profile, in case the dimensions of the panel change (Fig. 13). After this, attach the panel to the sheathing without tension.

Technological indentations must be strictly observed: when installing it yourself in winter, the panel (solid) can increase in size by 18 mm (maximum value).

Under the influence of the sun, the panel will also change its size, and then winter time will jump out of the lock of the adjacent profile if too much space has been left for thermal expansion.

• IN summer time year – 6 mm
• In winter – 9 mm

Extension of panels

The panels are built up either with an H-profile or with an overlap.

When installing overlapping siding panels with your own hands, trim the fastening frames and panel locks so that the overlap length is 25 mm (as is the case with profiles) (Fig. 14).

Attach the H-profile in the same way as external and internal corner profiles– at the top the distance from the soffit is 3 mm, and at the bottom lower it 6 mm below the starting profile. In case of protruding obstacles on the façade, leave a 6 mm gap to the obstacle so that the H-profile does not touch it (Fig. 15).

The H-profile is built up with an overlap, according to the same principles as internal-external corner profiles.

Installation of other panels

When installing siding yourself, check the siding surface for horizontalness on every third row of panels.

When you reach the mark of the opening, on the panel that falls on the opening, calculate and remove the unnecessary part of the vinyl - you need to cut off the width of the opening from the panel, increased by twice the technological indentation of 6 mm.

By removing excess sections of vinyl from the ends of the panel, you will ensure a minimum vertical technological gap of 1-2 mm, and the cut ends of the panel will be able to move in the lock of the near-window profile if necessary (Fig. 16).

In order for the panels to be securely fastened, “hooks” are needed - you will need a special punch (punch).

IN bottom trim An additional finishing profile is inserted into the opening to level the siding in the plane, since the depth of trimming the panels depends on the height of the opening on the facade and can vary.

Rice. 17: Installing the finishing siding panel on the wall

Further steps when installing siding yourself:

1. Measure the distances in different places between the lock of the penultimate siding panel and the bottom of the lock of the finishing profile
2. Subtract a technological indent of 1-2 mm from this value
3. Mark the entire siding panel, remove the top part with the lock
4. Make “hooks”, bend them to the front side, on the top of the panel (step 20 cm)
5. Insert the trimmed panel into the penultimate panel and snap it into the lock of the finishing profile upwards

Installation of the pediment

Sheathe the perimeter of the pediment, placing the fasteners as follows: the top fastener at the top of the fastening hole, the rest in the center. Both J-profiles and internal corner profiles can be used.

Installing the panels yourself is identical to the walls. The edges of the panels are trimmed and inserted into the locks of the receiving profiles. Don't forget to make a technological indent here too.

The amount of space between the siding and the bottom of the lock (gutter):

• 6 mm – in summer
• 9 mm in winter

The final (last) gable panel is attached directly through the vinyl - this is absolutely the only place where it is possible to attach siding in this way.

The only time you can attach a siding panel directly through the vinyl is the last panel

There are many materials for self-finishing facades. However, covering a house with siding yourself stands out among them due to its low cost and extreme ease of installation. Most often, home craftsmen choose vinyl for such cladding of their cottage. façade panels, the installation technology of which we will consider in detail in this article.

Components and start of work

To properly cover a house with siding from the street, you must strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions. Most of the complaints about self-stuffed PVC cladding then arise precisely because of non-compliance with the banal rules of its installation.

There are several types of vinyl siding planks:

Types of components

Initial – starting rail, the first lowest element;

The main panel is the basic segment of siding covering a house;

Finish – the topmost stripe;

Connecting (docking) – H-profile for joining short panels;

Hinged - ebb protecting the windows and base of the house from precipitation;

Near-window (wide J-profile) - platband for decorating slopes;

Corner (external and internal) – for covering the ends of siding panels at corner joints;

Soffit – ceiling panel for sewing cornices and gables of houses;

J-trim – narrow universal J-profile.

The variety of plank shapes only simplifies independent cladding. There is a set element for every corner and ledge of the house; you just need to correctly calculate the required number.

Calculation of material for cladding and necessary tools

For calculation consumables you need to calculate the area of ​​the facade covered with siding, and then divide it by the square footage of the selected panels. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the sizes of windows and doors that the house has, removing them from the calculations. You also need to take a 10% margin for adjustment so that everything can be finished without problems or restrictions.

To decorate a house with siding you will need the following set of tools:

Level and plumb;

Ladder;

• Screwdriver;

• Scissors and hacksaw for metal.

If the walls of the cottage are built of concrete or brick, then you will need a drill to drill holes for the dowels of the sheathing. Will not interfere with siding self-cladding at home and grinder. It will make cutting the panels easier and faster.

Insulation and waterproofing of the house

Before you start covering the house, you need to clean the walls and seal the cracks in them. Under the siding old paint and the plaster will not be visible, but it is better to get rid of them. If the house is made of wood or aerated concrete blocks, then a vapor-permeable waterproofing film must be attached to it under the sheathing.

The insulation is placed between the guides of the frame, which is stuffed under the finishing material in question for the facade of a private house. Next, another layer of waterproofing is laid on top of it. Moreover, everything is done so that an air cushion remains between the membrane and the heat insulator on the walls of the house.

DIY siding installation

To attach vinyl panels to the sheathing, you can take:

Screws (self-tapping screws) with a diameter of 3.5–4 mm

Nails with a stem section of 3 mm and a head from 8 mm

Their consumption when finishing a house with siding is calculated based on the step between these hardware on the strips of 30 cm. Fasteners in wooden slats or the metal profile of the frame must fit at least 20 mm. In this case, a space of 1 mm should be left between its cap and the PVC lining. If this is not done, then vinyl siding at home, when the temperature outside changes, it will warp and move in waves.

Assembling sheathing for cladding a house with siding

The sheathing is made vertical or horizontal with a distance between the slats (profiles) of 30–40 cm. These guides must be placed across the main vinyl planks. But by definition there should be no crossbars between them. You need to cover the house with siding yourself so that there is space under the panels for natural air circulation.

To ensure reliable fastening of the PVC cladding, additional support rails are installed around the openings and along the corners of the building. They are also needed in places where lamps and drains are hung on walls. It is required to securely fasten not only facade panels for exterior decoration of the house, but also various decorative elements on them.

House sheathing

Installing the starting bar

The first to be fixed to the walls is the starting bar. To do this, a rope is pulled level around the house on nails at a height of 3-4 cm from the lower edge of the mounted sheathing. The starting profiles are attached around the perimeter of the building not end-to-end, but at intervals of 5–6 mm in case of thermal expansion.

Installation of low tide and starting bar. Low tides are installed from the corner of the house. The starting profile is mounted 30-40 mm above the ebb strip.

When covering houses with siding, it is extremely important to fix the starting strip correctly and evenly. It serves as the basis for the entire structure of the external cladding. The clarity of the geometric lines and the overall appearance of the siding decoration of a private house depends on it.

Setting internal and external corners

Next, external and internal corners are attached, installed at the joints of two walls. Their lower edge should be located just below the starting strip already attached to the house. The first self-tapping screw is screwed into the top hole for fasteners so that the corner hangs on it.

External and internal corners are installed so that the bottom edge is 4-6 mm below the starting profile, and upper part 1-3 mm below the soffit or cornice

Then the corner is aligned strictly vertically. The remaining screws are screwed down the bar in 30 cm increments in the middle of the holes and not all the way. That's the only way PVC sheathing at home will be able to “breathe” and will not deform.

Building up corner elements is done overlapping. At the bottom of the top bar, the inner side edges are trimmed by 25 mm. It is inserted into the bottom corner by 20 mm, which leaves a gap of 5 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of strips on door and window openings

The next stage is covering the house openings for windows and doors with platband. In order for everything to turn out beautifully in the end, you will have to work hard here. In the upper horizontal J-profiles you will have to make cuts in the sides with a bend of the cut part of the panel, and in the lower ones you will have to make an angled cut at 45 degrees.

Trimming the window profile

The vertical strips are cut at an angle at the top, and cut out at the bottom with a similar bend on the side. The purpose of all these manipulations is not just to cover the house beautifully with siding, but to join the platbands so that water cannot seep into the joints anywhere.

Installing the main panels

With basic planks everything is much simpler. The first of them just needs to be inserted into the starting profile, and then fixed to the sheathing. The rest will follow one after another. It is the ease of installation of the main panels that allows you to decorate your house with siding with your own hands in literally a day.

If there is not enough siding length, we join several planks through an H-profile. To do this, do not forget to install and secure the connecting H-profile in advance. The distances below and above are the same as for the outer or inner corner

Installation starts from the starting profile and ends with the finishing profile or molding

Don’t forget to make “hooks” at the top of the panel

The finishing strip is attached to the upper edge of the wind board using “hooks” similar to the molding.

Soffits are installed between the molding and the J-bevel

The planks should be fastened from the middle to the edges, placing the screws exactly in the middle of the holes on the edge. The finishing touch vinyl cladding houses - installation of the finishing panel with insertion of the topmost main PVC strip into it.

What to consider in order to properly sheathe a house with siding

The technology of work is such that house cladding can be done all year round. But when sub-zero temperature The siding should be taken outside in advance to allow the material to acclimatize.

If the house is old, then there should be no problems with vinyl paneling. But the new building must be allowed to settle completely, otherwise the façade decor will necessarily be deformed. No amount of clearance will help in this situation.

Numerous photos of houses covered with siding are pleasing to the eye. To self-installation everything turned out no worse, it is extremely important to follow the installation instructions and leave gaps where necessary to compensate for the expansion of the material when heated under the sun.

Table of temperature gaps

When installing vinyl siding, consider the air temperature according to the table below. For example, if you are installing at a temperature of +10 degrees, then the main strip 3.6 m long can lengthen by 8 mm in warmer weather, and shrink by 12 mm in colder weather.