Architects usually create miniature models (models) of buildings. Before you start building a house or an entire residential complex, you first need to make a sample of it to scale (photo). Real architects make models from PVC (polyvinyl chloride), and parts for future buildings are cut out on a special milling machine, which is programmed with a specific computer program.

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Such a machine is capable of not only cutting out microscopic parts with pinpoint precision, but also applying a cross-section to their surface that imitates brickwork or other coating. Thanks to this, maximum reliability of the layout is achieved. The machine cuts out tiny windows, doors and other parts. After this, the architect connects them together using a solvent, which melts the edges PVC plates and tightly fastens them to each other.

The same thing can be done at home, but only without milling machine, PVC and solvent, and using cardboard, paper, PVA glue and scissors. The production technology is very similar to what the pros use. The difference lies only in the materials and, of course, the quality of the model produced in this way.

But if you try really hard, you can make a paper building no worse than what an architect creates using a high-tech milling machine. So, how to make a house model with your own hands using a basic set of stationery?

What do you need for work?

To make a house model, you will need the following tools:
thick white/colored A4 paper (several sheets);
cardboard of the same size;
a sharp construction knife (it is convenient for cutting out the walls of a building, and then cutting small windows and doors into them);
glue brush;
PVA glue;
a wooden or plastic board for modeling (it’s convenient to cut out parts on it so as not to damage the table);
scissors;
pencil;
ruler.

You can also use regular household hair dryer for accelerated drying of glued parts. You can cut out a building from either paper or cardboard. The last option is more reliable, but it is a little more difficult to work with. You can cut out the entire layout from paper, and then mount it on several “load-bearing” cardboard walls (photo). This will strengthen the entire structure and give it more stability.

Creating a diagram of the future building

There are two ways to create the walls of a future building. For the first, a scheme like the one in the photo below is used. This is literally the entire building, but in a centerfold. Standing nearby The walls can be made continuous and not cut. They will simply need to be bent later, forming the corners of the building.

Immediately mark the locations of future windows. They must be on the same level. Don't forget to leave small indentations on the sides and bottom of the walls, as in the diagram. Afterwards, with their help it will be possible to connect the structural parts with each other. The entire building should be made to scale so that further walls, the roof and other parts of the house were proportional.

Making a layout: method 1

After the entire diagram is drawn on paper, all that remains is to cut out the future building, bend the lines marked with a blue dotted line and cut the windows with a construction knife. Use a modeling board. It allows you to cut out parts from cardboard and then glue them together much more conveniently.
The circuit shown in the photo above is suitable for the production of the most simple houses. More complex design will literally have to be made up of several parts. By the way, the layout can also be made to open (so you can see interior decoration Houses). It is on this principle that children's doll houses are made, which can be purchased in the store.

To make such a layout (photo), it is advisable to use the thickest cardboard you can find. In order for part of the wall to open, an appropriate fastener is used (this can be found in old Soviet-made boxes) or simply a piece of cardboard bent in half. Doors can be made to open in the same way.

Method 2

The second method is suitable for producing models of buildings with more complex configurations (photo).

First, you need to fold a sheet of paper like an accordion, as in the photo. The more folds, the more walls you get, but their width will be correspondingly smaller. On one fold you need to draw ½ of the building's facade. We draw very carefully, with a thick line outlining the places of the cut, and a thin line outlining the places where the paper is folded.

Then we cut along the bold lines and unfold the accordion. The result will be a whole façade, absolutely proportional and even, as in mirror image. We bend the paper holders as in the photo and cut the windows with a construction knife.

After this, the parts of the structure are assembled together, coated with glue at the joints and glued together. We make a base for the layout from cardboard. When the entire structure is ready, you can paint it or stick some images (as in the photo).

Making trees and grass

To make the layout look more authentic and to be able to visually assess its scale, it is advisable to decorate the cardboard stand with greenery: grass and trees. To do this you will need:
a can of green paint;
acrylic paint of several green shades;
dried twigs (dead wood);
a piece of foam rubber;
glue;
awl;
paint brush.

First, in any unnecessary container, mix several tones of green acrylic paint(dark and light to achieve maximum authenticity effect). After this, you need to cut the foam rubber into small pieces and properly saturate them with this paint. When the foam rubber is colored, we leave it to dry for a day.

We cut the dried foam rubber into such small pieces that they literally resemble crumbs. This will be our grass. After this, paint the cardboard stand well with greenery several times, and when the paint dries, cover it with a thick layer of glue. Pour green foam rubber crumbs onto the wet glue in random order. The grass is ready.

When the glue is completely dry, you need to make several holes in the cardboard base with an awl. Be very careful not to damage the entire layout. We paint dry twigs with green spray paint and stick them into the holes in the stand. Now the trees have taken their place. All this vegetation makes our paper building model look more realistic.

To color sawdust, take ultramarine blue and dilute it in hot water, where the wood powder is immersed, colored before our eyes to the desired color. Once removed from the paint, it is wrung out and placed in a thin layer on a baking sheet to dry.

Wood powder can be used to cover models instead of paint, but for this it is prepared in a wide variety of colors, dried and placed in jars. Best paint for this purpose - aniline, sold in bags for dyeing cotton fabrics. The powder is applied in a thin layer to hot wood glue and pressed down. When it dries, the excess is poured into a jar and stored for future work.

The snow surface is made like this: necessary part smeared with glue and sprinkled with brown powder mixed with boric acid to add shine. You can also make the surface of cotton wool (absorbent), which is spread in an even and thin layer on top of white paper. The cotton wool is sprinkled with boric acid on top.
When the glued parts are dry, they are covered with putty made from chalk (tooth powder) and glue. Depending on the color that the soil should have, add to the chalk different paint. The putty is applied in a thin layer, and in those places where it is required, it takes the shape of the necessary convexities, relief, protrusions, banks, etc.

The purpose of coating with putty is to hold the model together, smooth out or create unevenness, and make it dense and monolithic. When applying it, the putty can contain pebbles and roots that imitate one or another object.

The background of the layout can be painted with brown paint or sprinkled with wood powder over glue, or covered with dark paper. After finishing, the entire model, while it is raw, is sprinkled with diamond mounds, which makes it come to life, especially in the evening light.

The inscriptions are made on drawing paper in ink and placed under glass, like labels, and the layout is ready.
Let's turn to making some details of the layouts.

The forest and bushes conventionally represent green deciduous mosses. They gather in advance. You need to choose the greenest, brightest and not very juicy ones, dry them in a draft, but not in the sun. Very dense bouquets are tied from mosses, which are inserted into holes made in the model with an awl.

Grass layout

The grassy surface on the models can also be depicted with moss. The surface is covered with matte green paper or painted with green paint. The green background is smeared with glue and sprinkled with finely trimmed moss. Moss can be replaced with painted green small sawdust. If you need to represent part of the vegetation in natural form, then you have to take real plants or parts of them dried in sand.

For surface unevenness, pits, small elevations, etc., deal with this: moisten a wad of thin paper in liquid wood glue of the required size and stick it on the surface of the stand. Soak another piece of colored paper in glue. When it becomes soft, place it on the lump and press the edges around the lump to the surface of the stand. Coat the irregularities with glue and sprinkle with cut moss or soil.

Imitation of the earth's surface. The easiest way is to create a flat soil surface. It is enough to grease a piece of cardboard and sprinkle it with earth or sand. The cardboard must be painted the same color as the soil being prepared.

“Earth” is done like this. Take thin cardboard and matte black paper. Cut out a piece of cardboard of the required size, cover it with matte black paper, the back side of the cardboard must be covered with paper immediately, otherwise it will warp. In the absence of paper, cardboard can be successfully painted with soot using glue. Apply wood glue to the black side of the cardboard, cover it thickly with soil in an even layer, let it dry for half an hour and only then shake off the excess soil.

Dry land is not black, but gray and therefore, in order for it to remain black, it must be painted. This is done before applying the sticker. Take black mineral paint, spread it on a saucer and pour earth into it. Dry the paint-soaked soil in the sun or in an oven.

The sand surface is made using exactly the same techniques, you just need to take yellow paper instead of black, preferably ordinary wrapping paper. Occasionally it is necessary to paint the background with watercolor paint if the “breed” being prepared has a shade of a different color.

For sandy landscapes, artificial sand is prepared. It is made up of 20% natural sand and 80% ocher. The mixture is thoroughly mixed.

Of the natural pebbles, it is best to use pebbles taken from a stream, as well as fine gravel. In order to attach pebbles, sticks or any objects to cardboard, they are smeared with very thick wood glue and lowered into their designated places. When cooking lei, add a little granulated sugar for strength.

Stream layout

The stream is decorated with paints, and its bed is filled with specially applied putty. blue powder of the blue embankment, which gives off a shine, and the shore - with earth and pebbles.

To enliven the landscape, animals can be cut out of plywood, painted and attached in appropriate places on the layout. Also the foreground plants. The stones must be prepared from paper pulp and then painted. You can also use corresponding drawings for this purpose by cutting and gluing them onto cardboard, and then attaching them to the layout.

High slopes and cliffs. A box of the required size is bent and glued from cardboard. It is glued bottom up onto a piece of cardboard. This will be the skeleton of the mountain. You can glue a sheet of thick paper on all or some sides so that one edge of it is attached to the edge of the bottom of the box, and the other to the cardboard, you will get a slope of the desired steepness. The paper is taken in the appropriate color depending on whether the slope is earthen, sandy or grassy. When the model is completed, this slope is smeared with glue and sprinkled with sand, earth or cut moss.

For tearing, use thin gray wrapping paper. Cut the desired piece, soak it in liquid wood glue and apply it in the same way as the “slope”, but, of course, lower it much steeper. The glue will dry soon, and you can easily assemble the paper into any folds or gathers. When the glue dries and the paper hardens, coat it with glue again and, holding the “break” up, sprinkle with sand. Then the assemblies and folds will resemble potholes washed with water on the slope of a ravine. You can sprinkle the “cliff” not only with sand. Having collected multi-colored clays, pour them onto the glue in horizontal stripes and visually depict the layering of the earth's crust.

Such models of mountains, cliffs, banks and even ravines can be easily made from life if you have drawings and maps of the area.

If you are collecting rocks from some cliff, then an accurate, well-proportioned model of the cliff, made (sprinkled with glue) from genuine materials taken on site, will greatly increase the value of your collection.

Building models of homes or villages develops students' resourcefulness and creative initiative. And such models produced will serve as valuable aids for the geography classroom. Pictures, drawings, etc., as well as descriptions in magazines and books can be used for guidance. As an example, here is a description of one layout.

In front of the cave entrance, a man is sitting by the fire. All the inhabitants of the cave went hunting. The remaining one must guard the home and maintain the “eternal flame.”

Well executed cave layout primitive man will help you imagine the life of our ancient ancestors. The size of the base is 40 X 40 cm. The height of the back wall is 40 cm. Model a model of a mountain with a cave out of clay. Cover the model with layers of paper. Pre-tear the paper into pieces of 150×150 mm. You will get a papier-mâché cast of a mountain. Sew the mountain to the base and to the back wall of the layout.

Cover the area around the mountain with earth and green sawdust. Paint the mountain so that it looks like it is made of stone. Animal skins are made well from pieces of an old shaggy towel. Paint the “skins” and glue them inside the cave. There are stone tools in the cave. Sculpt the stone parts of the ax and spear from plasticine or other material. Make a fire from tissue paper painted red and yellow. For the figure of a primitive man, make a frame from soft thin wire, then apply plasticine to it. Dress a person in a piece of animal skin.

Now we will look at the topic of how to create templates kindergarten, multi-storey or private house, as well as a school and a future classroom in it made of paper.

It is difficult to learn how to create really complex projects, but it is in your power and interests to assemble a decorative model of a building on a scale of 1:50, having previously drawn on a piece of paper the outlines of the details and facades of the buildings, as well as the entire roof and frame. You can print templates and layouts of structures yourself.

How to make or build a three-dimensional house, apartments and rooms in it? The technology itself is not complicated, but it may seem difficult for the first time, especially for children, so we are sharing step by step how to do it. To make a house model with your own hands, you will need plywood six mm thick, as well as materials for creating facades, partitions and a roof. We will make the frame of the house from plywood and lay it out on a smooth surface.

Gallery: layout of a paper house construction (25 photos)

We create a layout for a house model with our own hands

The process of creating regular flat patterns no less interesting than working with ready-made samples. To do this, you will need a graphics program installed on your PC. It is best to take CorelDraw or a similar program that processes vector images.

In it, with an increase or decrease in the size of the picture, the size of the lines and the textures themselves change in the same ratio. This helps to get real images. And the library of textures included in its shell is huge.

By filling the development detail with texture, you can get a ready-made visual appearance of the main details of the layout . The whole process, including pouring the scan particles a certain texture, applying certain effects and architectural details, as well as inserting pictures from a library of symbols, will take from ten minutes to half an hour, if the structure is not complex. Let's make a scan on our printer and start prototyping.

Creation of complex paper products

The process of creating complex, huge house models is not much different from that described earlier. It’s just that such developments are also done for individual parts of composite layouts. On group photo The entire assembly of such a layout shows its individual parts and the assembly diagram.

As noted above, the main materials for layout are cardboard and Whatman paper. These materials are comfortable and easy to use manual processing, have sufficient rigidity and plasticity, which makes it possible to implement in one form or another creative ideas author. If a rolled Whatman paper is used for prototyping, then it must be stretched onto a stretcher before work, since when twisted it does not represent flat surface. Whatman paper allows you to perform operations such as bending, twisting, cutting, and corrugating. It cuts and glues well, and the black and white gradations are clearly visible on white paper. The paper for layouts should be perfectly flat, the sheets should be stored horizontally, preferably under a press. To determine the direction of the fibers of the sheet, two narrow strips of arbitrary length should be cut ─ one along the vertical edge, the other along the horizontal. Using a knitting needle or pencil, you need to twist both strips into a spiral. The surface of one of them will be plastic (in the direction of the fibers), and the other will be covered with small cracks and breaks. The paper used is mainly drawing paper (Whatman), white, thick.

There are basic techniques for giving paper configurations that will be used in the future.

1. To glue any curved surface, you need to pass the paper through a cylindrical object (pencil, knitting needle) (Fig. 32).

2. In order to make a cylinder, cone or other body of revolution, you need to divide the development of these bodies with vertical lines into equal strips 3-5 mm wide and use a breadboard knife to cut the sheet from the fold side to one third of the thickness of the sheet, being careful not to cut through it to the end (Fig. 33). Cuts in all types of reamers are made with a breadboard knife according to metal ruler(Fig. 34). If the sheet is thin, then you can use a non-sharp, narrow object, for example, the outside of the end of a pair of scissors. Thus, it is possible to make notches of the ribs in the developments of the layout parts. This method gives the material additional rigidity and allows it to achieve significant strength.

3. If it is necessary to create a structure or a rigid spatial frame in the layout, as well as in cases of hollow geometric shapes, you can use U-shaped or L-shaped elements in cross-section, since they have geometrically extreme rigidity.

Rice. 32. Curved surface

4. In order for the ribs and edges of paper or cardboard folds to be clear without creases and curvatures, cuts must be made along the lines of the future fold on the side where the outer edge will be formed, similar to what was described above (Fig. 34).

Rice. 33. Body of revolution

Rice. 34. Edges, edges of paper folds

In the manufacture of complex volumetric forms, the need arises for the stage of sketch development of the form: gluing. It checks the nature of the divisions, proportions, and the correctness of the development itself. For the quality of the mock-up, it is important where the surfaces will join together and along which line the form will be glued. It is desirable that there be as few gluing points as possible; they should not fall on protruding corners and should not be located on the surface of the edges. To correctly draw a development, you need to unfold the sketch layout into a plane. When constructing paper models of complex volumetric shapes, it is recommended to proceed as follows:

1. Make drawings of the edges. You can use the drawings below, enlarging them to the desired scale. Be very careful, the accuracy of the drawing determines how accurately the parts will fit.

2. Make a stencil according to the drawing. To do this, place the drawing on a sheet of thick cardboard and pierce both sheets at the vertices of the polygon with a needle or thin awl. Using a sharp pencil, connect the resulting punctures along a ruler. Carefully cut out the stencil with a knife or scissors, stepping back from the pencil line by about 0.5 cm.

3. Select the material from which you will make the layout. For medium-sized layouts, thick construction paper works well. It is also good to use thin glossy cardboard. If you are making a large model, you need to choose a denser material so that it does not collapse from its own weight. If you are making a color layout, you need to use colored material or paint it yourself before you make the blanks.

4. Using the stencil, make the required number of blanks. To make a blank, place the stencil on a sheet of the material you have chosen for the model and make punctures in the vertices of the polygon. Now, using a sharp object ─ a needle or an awl ─ draw borders and fold lines between the punctures. If you are using thick enough cardboard, you can use a very sharp knife, carefully cutting the cardboard to a third of its thickness.

5. Cut out the parts, leaving sticker fields with which the parts will be connected, ranging in size from 0.3 to 0.5 cm. There are several technologies for connecting parts (they are discussed below); leave those stickers that are required for the technology you choose. Cut the corners of the workpieces so that the cut passes exactly through the puncture.

6. Carefully bend the pieces along the lines you drew. If the fold is very long (more than 8 cm), then in order not to wrinkle the workpiece, use a ruler and press the workpiece along the fold line.

7. You can skip this step, but if you are making a one-color layout, it will greatly benefit from this treatment. After peeling back the stickers, carefully paint the ribs of the future model with black ink. To avoid staining the workpieces, paint the ribs one at a time, without starting the next one until the previous one has dried. It is very convenient to work in a “conveyor” way, making many identical workpieces at the same time ─ you paint one edge of each workpiece, and by the time you process the last part, the first one will already be completely dry.

8. If the layout has very sharp polygonal corners, additionally trim the corners of the stickers. This should not be done prematurely, otherwise it will be difficult to carefully peel back the stickers. Try to leave as much room for gluing as possible. more space. Cut off just enough so that the stickers do not interfere with the edges and each other near the vertices of the polyhedron.

9. When all the parts are ready, you can start gluing the layout.

Examples of paper scans complex shapes depicted on

Despite the fact that the majority computer programs, which are performed in 3D modeling, allow you to imagine quite realistically appearance your future home, designing paper houses is still relevant. After all, not everyone knows these programs. And ordering such a computer model from an experienced engineer or designer is expensive. In this case, mastering simple techniques for modeling houses made of paper and cardboard is much faster.

And if you have children from 2 to 10 years old, then this work can turn into a fascinating activity for them. Moreover, the training and developmental effect of this type of activity is difficult to overestimate. This includes accuracy, motor skills, skills in working with tools and, of course, the development of spatial thinking.

Simple layouts of paper houses and patterns for gluing

Making a house model with your own hands is not difficult. The simplest layouts paper houses The easiest way to make it is from the so-called. developments, when all their elements are connected to each other by fold lines and represent a solid element in the form of a diagram.

Also, the development, in addition to the walls, floor and roof, has additional bends for gluing. You can find links to such scans on the Internet. It is enough to print them on a printer or, by measuring the aspect ratio, draw them on sheets of paper or cardboard and obtain a scan diagram for modeling.

You can transfer the resulting scan to colored paper.

Using a needle or awl, you can transfer key points of various elements onto it: windows, doors, places for attaching additional architectural elements and so on. You need to cut them out immediately using a stationery knife, placing a piece of thick cardboard or plywood under the sheet with the scan.

Separately, overlay elements are made: window frames, shutters, doors, etc., which you glue onto the finished layout last.

The easiest way to make an even bend along the lines is to apply a ruler with a sharp edge to it. By repeating this procedure at all bend points, you will receive a development ready for gluing.

You can also make a development by making each structural element separately and connecting them together at the bend points from the inside with tape. This method is especially interesting when you are making a house model from thick, hard cardboard.

You can glue the layout using quick-setting adhesives such as PVA, stationery silicate, glue stick, etc. You can also make it using double-sided tape, sold in hardware stores.

We offer a video to help:

Making a layout for a house model with your own hands

Process self-made scans are no less exciting than working with ready-made samples. To do this, you will need almost any program for working with graphic images installed on your computer. CorelDraw or something similar that processes vector images is best. In it, with an increase or decrease in the image size, both the thickness of the lines and the loaded textures change in the same ratio. This allows you to obtain more realistic images. And the library of textures built into its shell is impressive. At the same time, by filling the sweep element with texture, you can get the finished appearance of the main layout elements.

The entire process, including filling parts of the scan with the selected texture, applying visual effects and architectural elements, and inserting images from the symbol library, takes from 10 minutes to half an hour if the house is not very complex. Print the scan on a color printer and start prototyping.

For testing, you can use this one we made by copying the image to your computer and enlarging it to the required size.

Making complex paper designs

The process of manufacturing complex multi-component house models is not much different from that described above. It’s just that similar sweeps are performed for individual elements of composite layouts. A group photo of the assembly of a similar layout shows it individual elements and assembly order.

Having mastered the simple technique of making simple houses out of paper, you can create entire paper towns with elements landscape design, plants, car models and small architectural forms.

The easiest way to make building models from round paper is to apply the formula for determining the circumference (2πr) to their calculation, adding a gluing strip to it.

You can also add realism to your layout by simply lighting the house from the inside.

To do this, you can mark the connection points for the LEDs and the battery on the scanner, and then install them during the process of gluing the layout.

Such a house can also serve as a night lamp, but in this case it is better to use a switching power supply connected to the mains.

Will do charger For mobile phone. You can also use inexpensive Christmas tree garland:

Simple house layouts without development

These are, first of all, houses assembled with your own hands from paper cylinders. The same layouts are great for various small architectural forms on prefabricated models with landscapes.

But also, using a similar technique, you can create a realistic model that imitates a log house so dear to the heart of any Russian.

To do this, you need to take longer pieces of paper to make the tubes, so that after folding, its turns resemble the annual rings of a tree cut.

And the junctions of the crowns can be modeled by pressing the ends of the tubes with a solid round object of suitable diameter.

It is easy to assemble a paper frame from such elements. And display the intermediate crowns along the facades, and for a sample you can take a photograph of any real log house.

It is better to make roof coverings for house models separately, in the form of paper slate sheets, tile flakes or honeycombs of bitumen shingles.

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