One of the mandatory attributes of human housing is a table. It should be in the apartment, and in the cottage, and summer house at the dacha.

Making a wooden table with your own hands is not as difficult a task as it seems at first glance. A simple design that is suitable for a summer house can be assembled by absolutely anyone, even if this is the first time they have picked up a carpenter’s tool.

More complex models that will decorate the kitchen or living room will require creative approach and certain skills, but this work is also doable if you follow certain rules.

Possible options

Despite its simplicity, the table is considered a variable product and, with the right approach, will organically fit into any room. Manufacturers of wooden furniture usually offer the consumer the following types of models:

• with the correct geometry - rectangular, round, oval;
• corner - help save internal space;
• transformers – multifunctional structures;
• folding and sliding – allow you to accommodate a large number of guests;
• “books” are a common modification of a folding table.

It is noteworthy that all of the table options listed can be made in a home-made environment, literally from scrap materials.

Regardless of design and shape, homemade table made of wood must satisfy two requirements. Firstly, it must match the interior of the room; if you do not follow this rule, even a beautifully designed carved tabletop will look unpresentable. Secondly, the width of one seat must be at least 70 cm, otherwise people will experience discomfort.

Otherwise, the width and height are selected individually, depending on personal preferences and the intended use of the table.

Preparatory stage

Even a simple rectangular table four legs impossible to do without some preparation. Let's figure out what a home craftsman will need during the production process.

Drawings

This is a mandatory condition that will allow you to visualize the future table and determine the size and amount of material. You can search for finished drawings on the Internet: many craftsmen willingly share the results of their work with Internet users, describing in detail each stage of production.

If we are talking about a unique table design that you plan to create according to your own design, you cannot do without a drawing. You can draw a future model with a simple pencil on a regular notebook sheet. It is recommended to pay special attention to the following points:

• external dimensions (length, width, height);
• attaching the legs to the tabletop. Round models usually have one support post located in the center; rectangular designs require 1 support for each corner;
• mechanisms (relevant for folding options and transforming tables).

It is necessary to carefully consider how all the parts of the table will be assembled together, what additional wood processing will be required before or after assembly.

Material

It is no secret that different types of wood have different properties and not all wood is suitable for artisanal processing. Depending on the species, all wood can be divided into 3 groups.

Soft. This includes almost all coniferous species (spruce, pine, fir, cedar) and many deciduous species (linden, aspen, poplar, alder). This material is easy to process, but the finished table will require additional protective coating, especially if it is intended to be used outdoors. Coniferous wood is dependent on external factors and is prone to deformation and cracks. The exception, perhaps, is larch, which is used in construction wherever possible, including for making tables.

Solid. This group includes birch, oak, walnut and fruit trees: plum, pear, apple, apricot. Even without impregnation, such timber is resistant to a humid environment and exposure to direct sunlight, but during the processing process one cannot do without power tools.

Super durable. This category includes boxwood, acacia, hornbeam and yew. The material has high consumer properties, but requires professional processing, which is only possible in the workshops of industrial enterprises.

Tool

The simplest rough table made of boards can be assembled with your own hands using just a hammer, nails and a hacksaw. But for more accurate execution, additional tools will be required:

• electric jigsaw;
• sander;
• set of screwdrivers;
• drill with a set of drills of various diameters;
• roulette;
• simple pencil;
• square

In addition, it is recommended to pre-treat the wood with special antiseptics, which will make finished product more durable and resistant to moisture. If you plan to cut a pattern on the legs or sides, you will need special cutters. A lathe or milling machine woodworking, but not everyone has such tools.

Homemade tables for the garden

The simplest and most practical option for arranging a summer cottage is a table made of wooden pallets. Unnecessary at first glance, pallets are ready-made source material that requires virtually no additional processing, but offering multiple use cases. For example, from 2 pallets you can make a small hanging table with a wall mount, which can be used as a shelving unit or for small friendly gatherings.

This design is made in an elementary way. One pallet is attached to the wall using nails or self-tapping screws. The installation height is selected individually. The working part – the tabletop – is attached to the fixed base. The elements are connected to each other by two chains, which will perform a supporting and supporting function. For ease of use, 2 hinges are placed at the junction of the pallets; in addition, you can install a locking mechanism, for example a hook, which will hold such a table in the closed position.

More difficult option– a coffee table made of pallets that will look organic on the veranda or terrace. In this case, the pallets are carefully disassembled into their component parts, sanded, and painted. After this, the boards are knocked together into a rectangular tabletop and fixed around the perimeter with vertically arranged elements. The function of the legs is performed by 4 square bars. This design can be made in 3-4 hours and is quite suitable for evening tea parties and family holidays.

We use leftover building materials

On almost any personal plot there are boards left over from the construction of a house or outbuildings. This material is quite suitable for creating a simple rectangular table that can be placed on the veranda or in the garage, used as a dining table or utility table.

Here you need to follow these instructions:

• we assemble the frame. To do this you will need 4 boards: 2 long and 2 short. The sides are fastened together with self-tapping screws, forming a regular rectangle. To preserve the geometry, we use a square. Iron corners can be placed at the joints, which will give the structure rigidity and reliability;
• screw the legs. For these purposes, 4 boards or bars are suitable. The length is chosen arbitrarily: 80-100 cm. Support posts are installed on the inside of the frame, secured with nails or self-tapping screws;
• stiffening ribs. An additional wooden crossbar is nailed approximately in the middle of the legs. A crossbar is installed on both sides, making the structure more durable and stable. In addition, these crossbars can later be used to install a shelf where you can place dishes or other small items necessary for the household;
• table top This is where the remaining boards go, which are best placed across the frame. The material is cut with a hacksaw to the width of the table and attached to the frame with finishing nails.

At the final stage, all surfaces are treated with a grinding machine, primed and varnished. You can paint the table, in which case the wood will last much longer. And if you go over the boards with a brush for brushing and apply stain on top, you will get an antique table.

Table with benches

This option is perfect for a garden; the wooden structure is installed permanently; depending on the chosen dimensions, it can comfortably accommodate 8-10 people. In production garden table and benches made of boards separately, then the elements are fastened together with a threaded connection: steel pins.

The manufacturing process begins with benches. To do this, the boards are cut to size according to the drawings. To assemble the bench you will need:

• 3 long boards that will go on the seat;
• 4 short pieces, cut at the edges at an angle of 45° - the length of these elements should not exceed the width of the seat;
• 4 boards 40-50 cm high - these will be the legs;
• 1 board is 25-30 cm shorter than the length of the seat - a stiffener.

Please note that all the listed elements are duplicated, since there are supposed to be 2 benches for such a table.

The benches are assembled according to this pattern. A longitudinal stiffener is attached to two short cross members. The legs are installed, which are clamped with the remaining segments. For reliability, short parts are drilled through and, together with the legs, secured with pins.

Seat boards are nailed to the top of the frame. There is no need to place them closely; it is better to leave small gaps.

The finished seats are connected to each other by four boards 160-180 cm long. The fastening is done at the bottom of the legs so that the support posts are clamped by the boards on both sides.

After preparing the base, the table is assembled. The tabletop and areas for mounting support posts are made according to a principle similar to benches. The legs themselves are made cross-shaped and fixed to the longitudinal supports that connect the benches to each other. The result is a convenient kitchen table, made from wood with your own hands, which can be used for family holidays.

Round tables

Despite the specific geometric shape, making a round table from wood with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. In particular, if in the yard multi-storey building or old trees are being felled next to your garden plot, you can get an original round tabletop without any extra effort. A tree cut made in the thickest part of the trunk is quite suitable for this. Such a round piece, 5-7 centimeters thick, is varnished and can become a table for keys installed in the hallway.

If you are unlucky with fallen trees, you can create a round tabletop on your own. To do this you will need 4 boards of the following sizes:

• length – 2000 mm;
• width – 250 mm;
• thickness – 40 mm.

The boards are tightly connected to each other (without fastening), and a circle of the required diameter is drawn on the surface. After this, the boards are cut with a jigsaw exactly along the intended line. A rectangular or triangular frame is assembled under the legs from bars. The shape is selected depending on the number of legs. If 3 support posts are assumed, the frame is made in the shape of a triangle. The elements are fastened together with self-tapping screws, the legs are fixed in a similar way. The tabletop is installed using corners; after assembly, the entire structure is varnished. If you make such a table carefully, you can install it in an apartment in the kitchen or living room.

They collect according to a similar principle oval table. The only difference is that on the boards connected to each other, not a circle is drawn, but 2 semi-ovals at the ends. The boards are cut along the line with a jigsaw. The frame is also made of bars, but has a strictly rectangular shape. Ideally, the frame should be located at a distance of 10-20 cm from the edge of the tabletop. Small tables are often used as coffee tables and look especially interesting on curly legs. However, the manufacture of carved supports will require certain knowledge, so it is better to order such elements from a furniture manufacturer.

Transformable tables

A folding table made of wood, made by yourself and capable of changing its original shape, is a real masterpiece. Folding structures look equally advantageous in a country house and fit into the interior of a city apartment. The simplest option is to make a transformer for personal plot, and you can easily cope with this task yourself.

To surprise guests and get comfortable table made of wood for a picnic, you need to assemble 2 benches with high backs. The seat is made of 3 boards connected to each other by crossbars. There is one nuance here: the edge of the crossbar, which is located on the back side, should protrude beyond the edges of the seat by 10-15 cm.

Table legs are made different lengths. A short support post is placed on the side of the seat, the long one will serve as the basis for the backrest. Note that the recommended height of the backrest should vary between 60-90 cm. The design feature of the backrest is that it is mounted on one bolt, which is located in the upper part and serves as a turning mechanism. Closer to the seat, a hole is drilled in the rack where the lock for the backrest will be inserted.

After completing all the operations, you get 2 benches on which you can sit quite comfortably while discussing latest news or admiring the sunset. If you lift the backs of these benches and move them closer to each other, you get a table with two rows seats. Taking into account the width of each backrest, a tabletop measuring 120-180 cm is obtained.

Computer desk

If we are talking about a factory product, a computer desk seems quite complex design. It has a pull-out shelf for the keyboard, drawers for storing disks and other elements, the manufacture of which requires experience. However, the model of a table made of wood can be significantly simplified, leaving a minimum of parts necessary for working at a computer.

Here you can try this option:

• steel frame in the form of a welded rectangle made of corrugated pipe with 4 support posts. On one side, a frame is immediately made for the shelf where the system unit will stand, and two similar elements on the other end;
• the tabletop is made from boards or fiberboard sheets cut to size;
• the shelves are made of material similar to the tabletop.

All elements are connected to each other by a threaded connection or angle. Of course, this design is inferior to factory analogues in terms of external design, but it is several times cheaper and copes with its task.

Processing and external finishing

To make a homemade wooden table look presentable appearance and retained its properties for as long as possible, before assembly, all parts are impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion. It is better to repeat the treatment 2-3 times with an interval of 5 days. After installation is completed, the surfaces are thoroughly sanded, small flaws are masked with putty. Then apply varnish: choose better formulations on an acrylic basis, which are safe to use.

To extend their service life, it is recommended to protect wooden tables from extreme wetness and direct sunlight. In a dacha garden, it is better to install them in a shaded place and cover them with film during rain.

For starters, for the amateur self-made furniture, you should learn how to create a stool, since it is the easiest. And then it’s time to study the issue of creating a table.

Table designs vary, however, the simple version is very similar to the process of creating a stool.

A simple table for use in the country or during a picnic can be assembled in just a few hours. To do this you will need a hacksaw, hammer or drill.

However, a table based on a similar approach can be made for a living space. Because it can ideally replace the current extra-large option purchased from a retail outlet or furniture store.

The process of creating a table yourself is interesting on the other hand, because with its help the author has freedom of creative expression. It can be presented as a noticeable element of the interior of the room.

Creators of handmade amateur furniture are called carpenters for a reason. The usual definitions like: sofa holders or bedside tables, or maybe cabinets, do not apply to them.

Having gained experience in this area, over time it will be possible to create exclusive types of tables with advanced characteristics.

Now let's consider the issue of creating wood-based tables yourself.

Wood is clean and affordable, and is not as difficult to process as other materials. It conveys the maximum energy of the aesthetic filling of the style of the living room.

Due to its properties, it is lenient towards the mistakes of beginners in the field of independent furniture creation. However, thinner versions of the tables will require an advanced level of craftsmanship.

To begin with, having learned to work with wooden things, then it will be easier to use glass, plastic or even metal as a material.

Selection of tools and work space

To independently create tables or other wooden furniture elements, you need to use only non-residential premises.

This is due to the specifics of working with wood. It leads to the formation of large amounts of dust, shavings and other waste.

And the process of tinting or creating protection for a material based on stain can create dangerous emissions into the air. Actually, nitro varnishes can also be dangerous.

Because of this, for a personal carpentry workshop you will have to take care of ventilation of the room. Experts advise creating artificial ventilation premises.

Many people use a garage for this, however, production waste can pollute or damage the car, so this is not the best option.

Carpentry tools include modern and traditional types

For the most part, to begin with, you can limit yourself to a simple carpentry tool, however, later you may need modern versions in the form of:

• A rotating version of the miter box, which helps to create cuts based on two planes, adhering to the required size.

• This tool will open all your beneficial properties, primarily with a bow saw. This pair is considered universal; it can be useful for many jobs.

• Manual version of universal electric jigsaw, featuring a tilting shoe that helps create cuts based on the required angle in relation to the vertical plane.

• Disk version grinder. It will help beginners complete wood surface treatment in about 5-15 minutes. An experienced carpenter and some sandpaper can do the same job in about an hour.

And there is also a regular belt sander for grooves with recessed areas, which is distinguished by a protruding version of the working part.

Such tools are distinguished by their price and narrow specialization of work, experienced craftsmen It is recommended to rent them for a short period of time.

The most the best specialists, using various grinding machines can even create the effect of artificial aging of wood, however, this is very difficult work, as for beginners.

Which tree is best?

To create wooden table Any wood that is moderately resistant to decay will work well, however, you should refrain from soft versions like poplar, willow, ailanthus wood, aspen and even alder.

Of the domestic types of wood, it is best to use:

• soft options in the form of pine, fir, cedar, horse chestnut, plane tree, juniper or spruce.

• solid in the form of ideal oak, beech, maple, walnut or ash, larch, suitable for many works, as well as fruit species represented by apple, plum, pear, apricot and quince. And also elm and rowan should be included here.

• fairly hard species based on acacia, yew, stone birch, dogwood and boxwood.

Conclusion

I would like to decorate a table and probably all types of furniture created with my own hands with an artistic version of painting, and not with ordinary stripes.

However, over time, the design may deteriorate; to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to rub the paint into the depths of the wood before the varnishing process. This can be done using the technique of glazing. It's about about layer-by-layer rubbing of the paints used.

Photos of tables with your own hands

We spend all our free weekends and part of our vacation at the dacha. Regardless of the purpose for which you come to the dacha, everyone has a recreation area. Typically, such areas are arranged on a veranda, covered or open area. There they install sun loungers, armchairs, sofas. It is precisely in the recreation area that it is convenient to have a small table. On which you can place a glass of coffee or a bottle of mineral water. In this article we will look at how to make such a table with your own hands from scrap materials.

It's important to note that small table necessary not only as a bar counter or coffee table. You can sit your children behind it to draw or sculpt from plasticine. Given its small size, it is easy to carry, allowing it to be used in many ways. The table in the photo below will be discussed in this material.

Fig.1.

Table design

The photo above shows a table of the simplest design. Making it yourself is not difficult. The table consists of legs. Tabletop and countertop supports. To protect against precipitation, the table is coated with 2 layers of varnish. The table dimensions are shown in the drawing below.

Fig.2.

As the practice of using this table has shown, it is perfect both as a coffee table and as a table for studying with a child.

The table in question is made of wood. To make the legs, you can use timber 30x30 or 40x40 mm. The tabletop support can be made from the same timber. Or you can take a board with a section of 20x50 mm. The tabletop is made of furniture board measuring 40x80 cm. Such a board can be purchased at any construction supermarket.

What can a tabletop be made from?

In addition to furniture panels, the tabletop can also be made from boards. There are 2 options here.

The first option is to use a planed board with a cross-section of 20x50 cm. Such a board can be obtained by sawing lengthwise a standard-sized board with a width of 100 mm. The boards are fixed with a small gap, thanks to which rainwater does not accumulate on the table surface.

Fig.3.

This is definitely a simple solution. However, it has one drawback: writing or drawing at such a table will be inconvenient due to the gaps between the boards.

Problems with gaps can be solved by using a tongue and groove board to make the tabletop. Such boards can be assembled without a gap and get an analogue of a furniture panel.

Fig.4.

As an analogue of a tongue and groove board, it can be a dock for a wooden Eurofloor. It is only important to first level the back side with a plane.

How to assemble a table?

The main difficulty in assembling the table lies in securing the legs to the tabletop support. This can be done in various ways. Here I will describe the traditional method and the one that was used for the table given at the beginning of the article.

The traditional method involves using a special screed. This is a reliable and simple option. It is clearly shown in the figure below.

Fig.5.

Having decided to apply this method you may encounter one very significant problem. The problem lies in the difficulty of purchasing a special screed. In this case, you will have to use a non-traditional method.

In relation to the table under consideration, it is as follows. First, the tabletop support elements are secured to the tabletop. This is done using self-tapping screws and PVA glue.

Fig.6.

Then, using self-tapping screws with a pre-installed washer, the legs are secured to the tabletop support. To make the legs more rigid, the joints can be glued.

Fig.7.

After the glue has dried, we have a durable, lightweight table.

Fig.8.

Naturally, before use, it is advisable to paint or varnish the table. This way the wood will not darken, and the table will be well protected from precipitation and will last for many years. Such a table can be installed anywhere in the country house and will provide comfort not only to you, but also to your children.

Design Ideas and Constructions

Fig.9.

A very simple table. This one can be made from boards and covered with marilka. To reveal the grain of the wood, the boards can be treated with a wire brush.

Fig. 10.

Fig. 11.

Fig. 12.

Fig. 13.

Table from a pallet. All you need is a pallet and wheels.

Fig. 14.

Fig. 15.

Fig. 16.

Such a table can be assembled using either wood glue or self-tapping screws, as in the photo above.

The kitchen table is the same age as the kitchen itself. Probably even older than her: in parking lots and settlements primitive people large flat stones were found near the hearths, which served as cutting, serving and dining tables; they contained remains of food and food. In this article we will look at how to make a kitchen table with your own hands completely at home. This will not only allow you to save a certain amount (in general, not ruinous), but will also provide an opportunity to acquire initial skills carpentry work, which may turn out to be much more significant in the future. The most commonly used types of furniture joints are used in kitchen tables, but its design forgives rather serious flaws in work. There are also great-looking types of kitchen tables, for the manufacture of which it is enough to be able to saw off a piece of board and tighten a screw.

A table in the kitchen also provides considerable opportunities for creative self-expression: much less skill is needed here than imagination, and failure will not ruin the entire interior. The samples of original kitchen tables in the photo below are quite accessible for making with your own hands, but first you need to get a feel for the design and material on basic level This is what we will try to help the reader with.

You can make a table for the kitchen at least 15th in different ways , including artistic forging and casting from homemade artificial marble. However, firstly, we will limit ourselves to kitchen tables made of wood, as a material that allows us to obtain the desired result with the least amount of labor, money and time.

Secondly, we will deal with tables with rectangular or rounded corners. A round table requires 1.6-2.2 times more usable space than a rectangular table for the same number of eaters. Moreover, the first meaning refers to the case when the hostess is deprived of a free approach to him and must be served over the shoulder of the person sitting. This already falls into the category of parodies of the rules of good manners. Like, how should you tilt the plate when finishing the soup: towards you or away from you? Answer: depending on what you want to pour on yourself or the tablecloth. In addition, the round table in small kitchen stronger than a rectangular one of the same capacity is wedged into the so-called. functionality triangle, see below.

Dimensions and ergonomics

The height of the kitchen table is normal, 700-780 mm, counting from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop. For people of average height, the optimal table height is 750-760 mm. But with the dimensions of the kitchen table in plan, the situation is more complicated.

The essence is in the same triangle of functionality: refrigerator-sink-stove. Ideally, it should be rectangular isosceles with legs of 1.2-1.6 m. However, the ergonomics of the kitchen is spoiled much more than a slight deviation from these proportions by wedging the dining area into the hypotenuse. Simply: the hostess bent over the sink or stove and pressed her seductive forms against her husband’s cheek just when he brought the spoon to his mouth. Therefore, it is advisable to make the table in the kitchen, especially of economical layouts, smaller, as long as it is comfortable for the eaters.

The minimum acceptable dimensions of a family kitchen table in plan are considered to be 600x900 mm. For single people, let's say a table is 450x750 mm, like in railway cars. In this case, it is in the “micro-kitchen” or kitchen area It is also permissible to make a small-sized one-room apartment a wall-mounted folding one, see below. But optimal sizes kitchen table tops are considered (650-800) x (1100-1400) mm, depending on the available usable area and the build of the users.

Which one to do

Traditional kitchen table - on the base, pos. 1 in Fig. The underframe is the supporting frame of their boards placed on edge - the tsar. The drawers can be tightly fastened to the table legs, and the tabletop can be placed loosely on them; those. its fastenings only prevent horizontal displacement. This kitchen-sized table is simpler in design and stronger, but it is more difficult to bring in/take out, especially if the passage to the kitchen is narrow. The second option is that the drawers are tightly fastened to the tabletop, and the legs are detachable. In this case, the tabletop needs to be durable and not made of anything suitable for use. case, the material, and the design is more complicated. But there are no problems with bringing in/out. Both of these options for a classic kitchen table will be discussed in more detail below.

The table on the base can also be artistically designed, pos. 2. Making an artistic kitchen table is not as difficult as it might seem. The basis of its design - turned shaped legs - can be easily obtained from commercially available railing balusters (see below). For a novice craftsman who knows how to use a jigsaw, a figured sawed-off drawer does not pose a problem. What remains is a molding - a shaped chamfer on the lower edges of the drawers. For this, you can rent a manual milling machine with a cutter of the profile you like; with it, the work itself on setting up the molding takes less than an hour, plus 10-15 minutes of training on some kind of trim.

No less common in kitchens are tables of beam construction, pos. 3. Even in their simplest design (see 2 options below) they are more attractive than tables with a base. However, to complete them in a high-end design (item 4) requires well-equipped carpentry and solid manufacturing skills. Beam tables require higher flow material, but their undeniable advantage is that they can be made completely collapsible without tools (also see below).

Tables with a load-bearing tabletop without an underframe (item 5) are also very often found in kitchens. In a factory-made version, this is perhaps the cheapest type of kitchen tables good quality. A set of legs for such a table + a postforming tabletop (see below) will cost about 2,500 rubles, and assembly will take at most half an evening. But when making such a table completely independently, a beginner will encounter some significant nuances, see below.

Tables-books, they are also tables-pedestals, pos. 6, initially created a sensation due to its compactness when folded and the ability to be used in a half-fold version, but then there was a period of some disappointment. Firstly, no matter how you sit at such a table, your legs feel uncomfortable. Secondly, in the first samples, the rotary support lock was the simplest, consisting of a pair of 50x20 bars, attached with a gap equal to the thickness of the support to the underside of the tabletop. The outer faces of the bars were often removed with a wedge so that the support would not cling to them when unfolding the table. However, if you accidentally pry the tabletop with your knee, the lock is immediately released. Therefore, such tables could not do without a hodgepodge of cutlets and mashed potatoes on the trousers and the floor, and a reliable and easy-to-use mechanical lock turned out to be very complex and expensive. Nevertheless, both amateur craftsmen and serious manufacturers are improving this, in principle, very promising design, which will be the subject of a special section in this publication.

Wall-mounted folding tables (item 7) are rarely found in very tiny kitchenettes. Most often - among busy bachelors who are accustomed to doing everything while standing, even sleeping on the carpet in front of their bosses, because... have all the disadvantages of book-tables with virtually no room for improvement. Serving tables (item 8) are used much more often on the farm, but this is a separate class of furniture with its own specific qualities and manufacturing technology, so here we will limit ourselves to just mentioning them.

Technological subtleties and innovations

The kitchen table, firstly, is made from wood species or materials that are little or not subject to shrinkage when dried: oak, hornbeam, wenge, laminated chipboard, MDF. Ordinary industrial wood in a kitchen atmosphere with its fluctuations in temperature, humidity and organic vapors in the air begins to warp and crack after 5-7 years, even if impregnated and varnished. On the other hand, the dimensions of the kitchen table are small. This leads to some features of its manufacture, which ultimately make it possible to simplify the work.

Tabletop

This main detail any table. For homemade table to the kitchen best option– buy a ready-made postforming countertop; they are available in a wide range of colors, textures and sizes. Postforming is a profiled laminated chipboard with rounded edges, finished to look like wood or other material. The advantages of postforming in relation to a kitchen table are as follows:

Postforming is good technologically for simplicity and speed of work. But countertops made from boards, the so-called, look much more solid. solid wood or furniture panels. Joining boards into an array is quite delicate and painstaking work; for this purpose, special devices are used - clamps. If you want to try your hand at making furniture from solid wood, we offer a selection of videos:

How to assemble a furniture panel with your own hands:

How to make a panel top for a kitchen table:

How to make a tabletop from wood end cuts:

In the last video, the material is junk, but you can achieve the look - cool oligarchs will salivate.

Dowels, confirmations and dowels

Traditionally wooden furniture going on the dowels. The dowel connection is invisible and cheap; Just in case, let us remind you what it is and how it is done, see fig. To connect wooden parts, wooden dowels are used, which dry out along with the connected parts; The laminated chipboard, which practically does not dry out, is connected with plastic dowels. Corner plastic dowels are rarely used, because... often break. Connections with wooden dowels are usually glued.

It is often difficult for novice craftsmen to achieve accurate markings for the dowel connection. Tricks, such as marking with bitten nails (item 4 in the figure), do not always help, and it is impossible to remake an incorrectly marked dowel connection; both parts go to waste. Therefore, it is better for beginners to assemble their first products using furniture euroscrews - confirmed ones. This is more expensive, but does not require special skills, because... the confirmation hole in both parts, compressed with a clamp, is drilled in one go, see fig.

Parts made of laminated chipboard or dense thin-layer wood, connected with confirmats, last for many years. All the designs described below can be assembled both on dowels and on confirmations. However, in the latter case, the following rules must be observed:

• Use furniture grades for wood, not plumbing grades for plastic. They differ at first glance: furniture slots have hexagon slots, and plumbing slots have Phillips screwdrivers.
• The diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread when attached to the end should be no more than 1/5-1/3 (as an extreme case) of the thickness of the attached part.
• The height of the confirmation neck should correspond to the thickness of the main part.
• The penetration of the threaded part of the confirmat into the attached part must be at least 5-6 full diameters of the confirmat.
• The hole (blind hole) for the confirmat is drilled to its full length with the head.
• Use only a twist drill for wood.
• The main drill must be inserted into a mandrel that exactly matches its diameter and screw size.
• Drill holes for confirmations with a main drill of a diameter equal to the diameter of the confirmation by thread.

In practice, it is not difficult for even a perfect “teapot” to fulfill these conditions:

1. Based on the thickness of the part, we determine the diameter of the body of the confirmat without thread;
2. There is a lot of information on confirmatories on the Internet, from which you can, knowing the diameter of the screw body, the thickness of the main part and the drilling depth, determine the required standard size. It is better to immediately open pictures for the request “furniture screw (or confirmation) drawings dimensions”;
3. We are looking for a retail outlet where the seller, when asked to show furniture confirmations shows them exactly;
4. We say: “I need so many of such and such a standard size and a drill with a mandrel for them.” They may offer a solid drill just for this confirmation, it will be cheaper.

And a little more about dowels. It is best to place a detachable (freely applied) tabletop of a classic kitchen table on them. Incl. and for such purposes, plastic dowels with a round head or dowels with a cap and different types grooves on the long recessed and short protruding parts, see fig. right. Thick tabletops are attached first, approx. from 20 mm; the second ones are thinner.

Various tables

Classic

Classic tables on the underframe along with the legs (item 1 in the figure) are traditionally connected (assembled) using tongue-and-groove joints, which is quite complex and labor-intensive. Modern instrument– a drill with a twist drill for wood and a screwdriver – in combination with legs, the section of the heads of which is not less than 60x60 mm (for balusters the heads are usually from 100x100 mm), allows for a kitchen table with plan dimensions of up to approx. 750x1500 mm can be made by connecting with wood screws at an angle, pos. 3. In any case, the outer sides of the drawers should be 1.5 cm away from the outer surfaces of the heads of the legs, this is necessary for overall strength. Minimum permissible height kitchen table drawer 120 mm; thickness – 30 mm.

It is highly advisable to reinforce the connection with oblique screws with diagonal ties in the corners (item 4, above) from the same board as the drawers. If the tabletop is not intended to be removed unless absolutely necessary, then the labor-intensive installation of it on dowels can be abandoned. Then, at the corners of the finished supporting frame, scraps of the same board - crackers - are cut into the drawers and the tabletop is attached to them from the bottom with self-tapping screws, pos. 4 below.

The tabletop of a classic table with detachable legs should be at least 24 mm thick (chipboard, plywood) or 30 mm thick (solid wood). Countertops made from other materials, e.g. artificial stone, suitable for tables on the underframe along with the legs, are not applicable here. Due to big difference their thermal expansion modules and the wood of the table will soon become loose.

Next, the drawers are attached to the tabletop with long confirmations right through the end, on the left in the figure, with sizing with wood glue or PVA. It is difficult to achieve accurate assembly using ordinary wood screws, because... they are without a neck to keep the joint from moving.

The next point is that jibs in the corners (also in the figure) are required, wooden mortise ones or ready-made steel overhead ones. The legs are attached at the corners in the usual ways, on the right in Fig.

Desk drawer

A drawer is a classic structural module of a classic kitchen table. The guides for the table drawer are the same as for the drawers of the bedside table, chest of drawers, and closet. Since a large weight load is not expected in this case, but the smooth movement of the drawer and the possibility of its full extension of great importance If they don’t, you can use inexpensive roller guides on which keyboard boards on computer desks run.

The structure of a furniture box is shown on the left in Fig. It is not necessary to assemble its tray the old fashioned way on a box tenon (on the right in the figure); you can use self-tapping screws into the ends of the boards. The thickness of the boards for the drawer sides is 12-20 mm. The plywood bottom is often fastened with a furniture stapler, but this is not entirely reliable. It is better to attach it with self-tapping screws through the cranial bars along the contour of the bottom. The front of the drawer can overlap the front side of the table or fit flush into it, it doesn’t matter.

To install the drawer in the table, an opening is cut to size in the longitudinal front drawer cross section drawer tray, plus allowances on the sides for the guides (indicated in the specifications for them), plus another 3 mm along the contour. Then the side support boards are installed to secure the guides. They are attached to the longitudinal frames from the inside using backing bars. There is no need to secure it to the tabletop, it will become loose. Next, the box is assembled, attached to it and to the supporting boards, respectively. the guide parts push the drawer into place, that's all.

Quite simple

A completely simple, but good-looking kitchen table with a classic look can be made on a supporting frame made of boards, see fig. right. Its length, if the drawer section is at least 120x20 mm, can be increased to 1100 mm. Tabletop – any weight up to 15 kg. The angle of inclination of the legs from the vertical is 15-20 degrees, this is one fundamental point in this design. The second is transverse ties made of 50x15 timber, they give the entire structure the necessary rigidity. So, although this table looks classic, in fact it is already a beam table.

Beam

Drawings of a pair of kitchen tables with a beam structure are given in Fig. Above - completely collapsible without tools. The tabletop is structurally any, placed on dowels, although the style of this table (rustic) is fully consistent only with a tabletop made of solid wood. An option for attaching it from the bottom without dowels to cranial bars shown in the inset center right.

In this product, a beginner may find the bottom bandage (longitudinal tie) with a beveled through groove for the wedge to be a stumbling block. In fact, everything is very simple: the bottom bandage is assembled with glue from 3 layers of 10 mm plywood or boards. How to make beamed kitchen tables of this type, you can watch the following video:

Video: DIY table by components

The table, drawings of which are shown below, has 2 features. First, all material is boards with a width of 120 mm, timber is not used. The second is that only a tray is provided for the tabletop, and it can be made of glass, plywood with a mosaic of tiles or its fragments, etc. The gap between the board of the tabletop and the frame of the tray is prone to clogging, but removing the tabletop for cleaning is also easy. So whether it’s rustic or modern, whether it’s a kitchen table, boudoir or coffee table, you decide for yourself.

Without table support

Factory-made kitchen tables without bases are usually produced with postforming countertops, pos. 1 in Fig. Those who want to make something similar on their own wooden table top will face the following tricks.

First, you still need a table stand, made of wooden beams from 50x50, pos. 2. The fact is that mechanical stress in boards always flows to the corners, where they are distributed very unevenly. But the wood under all 3 fastening points of the leg frame must be tensioned approximately equally, otherwise the fastening will loosen on its own. Timber piping expands the fan of stress in a given place to an acceptable value, but it is impossible to replace continuous piping with corner pads; they will be of no use.

The second is the material of the countertop. Standard threaded sockets for mounting leg frames (item 3) are designed for laminated chipboard or dense, fine-grained wood. If the tabletop is made of pine, etc. layered enough soft wood, then the nests can, having torn the layers, crawl back out already during the installation of the clips. And the probability that this will happen when someone accidentally pushes the table is close to 100%

And the third is the leg clips themselves. In cheap sets of parts for tables without tabletops from “alternative” manufacturers, they are most often made of silumin, pos. 4. And silumin, as you know, is very, very fragile. In general, if you like such tables, it will be easier to buy a ready-made one with a guarantee. Most likely, and cheaper than assembling a kit for self-assembly at retail.

Books and Cheburashkas

The disadvantages of the table-book of the original design (see figure on the right) have already been mentioned above. In Fig. Below is a drawing of the design of a table-book (conventionally, only one rotary support is shown without the wings of the tabletop), which eliminates them in an amateurish, but effective manner. Simply, the width of the rotary support is reduced by more than half compared to the wing span of the tabletop (350 and 720 mm, respectively). Now the support rotates 90 degrees, so you can sit comfortably as you wish. The support, located in the working position along the longitudinal axis of the tabletop, holds it even better than an oblique one, and in order to lift the tabletop until the upper support bar comes out of the simplest clamp (see above), you need to raise your knees so that it will be very uncomfortable for yourself. Overall stability is ensured by the legs of the cabinet section, which must be made as long as possible, but not less than 600 mm. Otherwise, the swivel supports must be brought down in height to the floor level.

A fundamentally similar solution was used in the wall-mounted folding table (items 1 and 2 in the next figure), but here the bevel of the hanging corner of the support contributes to operational reliability. Which is quite applicable in the previous one. case: there are no contraindications for performing that support in the form of a trapezoid converging downward.

A proprietary solution to the problems of a book-table is removable legs stored in the cabinet. Placing them is not much more troublesome than catching the latch on the tabletop with a rotating support. Such a table-book is, of course, more expensive, but its operational reliability is complete: there is no latch, because it's simply not needed.

The next step in the evolution of the book-table is a design with a larger cabinet and one leg on each wing of the tabletop. There are half as many legs, which means the whole table is cheaper. Its stability has only increased due to the expansion of the cabinet, it is generally comfortable to sit, and there is more space in the cabinet (which is always in short supply in the kitchen).

Consumers liked such kitchen tables so much that they were already given the nickname - Cheburashka table. Probably, remembering from the cartoon: “Here, we built, built, and finally built it.” A folding kitchen table as it should be.

Alternative

If your kitchen is combined with a living room or you plan to combine them, then you don’t need to think about a kitchen table; it’s better to replace it with a column. You can not only drink at the bar counter, you can also eat there. The point of such a replacement is that at least half of the dining area goes beyond the kitchen, and the rest is used sporadically and does not wedge itself into the functional triangle. Result? See fig. It’s more convenient to work and dine in a 5-measurement kitchenette with a bar counter that separates the apartment’s zones than in 8-9. meter kitchen Brezhnevka Don't believe it? Let's do the math.

The kitchen table does not stand on its own. To plant the eaters, you need to add 400 mm along the contour, and another 300-350 for the approach. As a result, a 900x600 mm table requires approx. 2.5 sq. m of “living space”, and the table is 1200x700 mm and all 3.5 sq. m. It is very, very difficult to push such a thick piece into a kitchen of normal size without crushing the soft-boiled functional triangle. Here, even if two people sit at the counter from the kitchen side, the functional triangle is not disturbed, and the hostess is within easy reach of everything.

One of the famous culinary experts once said: “The kitchen is conservative, like the digestive tract.” Here, of course, he bent and overdid it. Something like a stove, refrigerator, food processor and the microwave is not found in our stomachs, although the kitchen is really conservative. But even in the most conservative sphere, at some point there comes a time that requires fundamental changes.

A table with your own hands can easily be made even by a home craftsman who does not have any accumulated experience in carpentry. Of course, this will become possible if the design of the table is quite simple and understandable.

For example, it is not always possible to find a suitable ready-made table model for a kitchen that is extremely small in size. Purchasing custom-made solid wood furniture is quite expensive. Therefore, sometimes you have to take up the tools and construct your own “work” yourself, starting from the specific dimensions of the place where you plan to install the table.

In addition, there is often a desire to show your creative abilities in a summer cottage, especially since there is always a desire to beautifully arrange a veranda or gazebo suburban area. If you have it on hand suitable materials and tools, then you can either sit down to draw up a drawing of the future table, or use a ready-made project, and then get to work.

To figure out which type of table you can build with your own hands, it is advisable to consider several options for this piece of furniture.

Tools for work

Before starting work, you need to prepare the appropriate tools that will be required to make any wooden table. The amount of material for each model will be different.

You can use regular, traditional hand tools, which carpenters have always worked with. This list usually includes:

1. A plane used to level wood and cut parts to the required size.
2. Chisels for selecting various holes and grooves, removing small protrusions.
3. Saws different sizes and modifications that are used to cut thick boards or make small cuts.
4. Pencil, tape measure, corner and ruler.
5. Screwdriver set.
6. Clamps for temporary fixation of glued parts.
7. Sandpaper for sanding.

Many of the tools can be replaced with more modern and convenient devices:

• An electric jigsaw will do all the work that the various saws mentioned above were previously used for.

Rating of jigsaws

• A sanding machine will help make surfaces smooth and polish them to a shine, eliminating the very tedious procedure of manual sandpaper.

• Milling machine with a set of cutters. This device will help round sharp corners, drill shaped grooves for furniture hinges, and if you need it and have some experience, you can use it to decorate a table with a relief pattern.

• will significantly speed up the work, since you won’t have to spend several minutes tightening each screw. In addition, during certain operations it is possible to install one of the milling cutters or ordinary drills into it, for example, in order to process an edge or make a perfectly even large or small hole (groove).

• The construction level will help make the product even and neat, as it will show all possible irregularities and distortions.

To prevent the finished furniture from being “crooked”, the assembly is controlled by level

An easy-to-make table for a summer cottage

Make a similar one country table- everyone can do it

Required materials

For such a country house, which has a tabletop size of 1680×850 mm, you will not need too many wooden blanks. You need to prepare the following:

1. Beam, cross-section - 750×100×50 mm - 4 pcs. (table legs).
2. Self-tapping screws, bolts and possibly metal corners.
3. Wood glue.
4. Board size:

• 1680×100×25 mm – 4 pcs. (longitudinal frame elements);
• 850×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (transverse frame parts);
• 1580×100×25 mm – 2 pcs. (cladding boards for the side elements of the frame);
• 950×100×25 mm – 17 pcs. (boards for tabletops).

All wooden elements must be treated with compounds and have a prepared smooth surface. If you plan to “darken” the wood, then it is covered with stain, and to reveal the textured pattern, the top is carefully sanded with a grinding machine. Fine-grit sandpaper will remove the stained, raised parts of the wood grain, making them lighter than the depressions.

Installation of a garden table

When all the parts for the frame are prepared, you can proceed to assembly.

Frame or “box” of the table

• The first step is the details of the tabletop frame - four longitudinal boards measuring 1680x100x25 mm and two end boards 850x100x25 mm, laid out on a large table or on the floor. The location of the internal and external boards is marked on the end boards. Using a ruler, based on the drawing, the required distances are measured and marked with a pencil. It is imperative to accurately mark the width of the longitudinal board at the junction with the end board, especially if the connection will be made using the tie-in method.

The elements can be connected in different ways:

Connection with a choice of “quarters” and using metal corners

- using a steel angle - this is the simplest and most reliable way;

- the insertion method is a more complex method, as it requires exact dimensions not only in the width and length of the connecting elements, but also in the depth of the board;

Several types of joints based on the tongue-and-groove principle

- “groove-tenon”, shown in the second figure a), b), c), d) and e) such a connection is also quite difficult for novice craftsmen with no experience;

- connection with dowels is shown in fragment e) - this method also requires perfect accuracy when marking and drilling holes in the parts to be connected.

• All connections are usually made using glue. The only exception is the fastening of parts end-to-end with a metal corner.
• The frame must have perfectly aligned right angles, so after connecting all the elements, you need to carry out control using a construction angle and measuring and comparing the lengths of the diagonals.
• If parts are secured with glue, they must be fixed in clamps and left until it dries completely, otherwise they will not be connected securely.

• When the glue dries and the frame acquires a certain rigidity, facing boards measuring 1580 × 100 × 25 mm are attached to the outer longitudinal sides. The place of their attachment also needs to be marked, since there should be a distance along their edges for mounting the legs. The facing boards are also installed with glue and fixed with self-tapping screws, the heads of which should be recessed into the wood by 1.5 ÷ 2.0 mm.

• The next stage is the transverse cladding of the tabletop with boards 950×100×25 mm. The place where they are attached must also first be marked, starting from the middle of the frame, since they must be installed at a distance of 5 mm from each other. The protrusion of the tabletop above the frame should be 25 mm on all four sides.

• Next, each of the boards is fixed in four places to the longitudinal elements of the table “box,” and the outer boards are also attached to the end sides. In order for the heads of the self-tapping screws to be recessed, recesses with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled into the boards to a depth of 2–3 mm, then, in the center of these recesses, through holes are drilled with a drill of a smaller diameter (usually 3 mm), into which the self-tapping screws will be screwed. To avoid cracking of the boards when installation work, through holes must be drilled.

• After this, legs made of timber with a cross-section of 750×100×50 mm are attached to the edges of the longitudinal boards; they must exactly match the width of the tabletop.

The next step is installing the legs

• The legs can be secured to the frame with self-tapping screws, but it is better to fix each of them with two bolts, placing them diagonally at the connection point. Through holes are drilled for the bolts, and the nuts are tightened on them from inside the frame using a wrench.
• The final stage of manufacturing is sealing the heads of the screws with a mixture made from carpentry or epoxy glue and sawdust. Use this homemade putty to fill the recesses above the caps and level them well. After the glue has dried, the entire tabletop, and especially the areas covered with “plugs” of glue, must be sanded well.

• After this, the table can be varnished or painted water based. After waiting for the decorative or protective layer to dry, the product can be installed in dacha gazebo, on the veranda or terrace in the recreation area.

If desired, it would be easy to make a bench to go along with the table.

Small folding table for the kitchen

This small folding table is perfect for a small kitchen or a very small room.

1. Its design is designed in such a way that the tabletop cannot fold on its own if the table leg is accidentally touched, so the table is quite safe for installation in a children's room.
2. The presence of a spacious double-sided bedside table will allow you to store various small items and small toys in it.
3. The table is equipped with a tabletop of sufficient size so that the child can do homework while sitting at it.
4. In addition, there is room on the tabletop for a laptop or books necessary for study.
5. If necessary, this small table can easily replace an ironing board if you lay a soft cloth on its surface.

Considering all of the above, the table can be called multifunctional, despite its very compact size.

Find out how, and also check out several models with detailed instructions, in a special article on our portal.

Necessary materials and parts for a folding table

To assemble such a convenient piece of furniture, you need to prepare all the parts that make it up. The list of necessary blanks is given in the table below, and how to make them will be described and shown below:

Table diagram with numbers marked assembly parts(illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

Part number on the drawing	Part name	Quantity, pcs.	Part size, mm	Material of manufacture, thickness, mm
1	Folding part of the table top.	1	600×600
2	Fixed table top of the cabinet.	1	600×475	Multilayer plywood 25 mm thick
3		2	530×30
4		2	120×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
5	The upper end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×30	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
6	Groove element for leg movement on a folding table top.	2	530×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
7	A groove element for the movement of the leg on the tabletop of the cabinet.	2	120×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
8	The lower end part of the groove that limits the movement of the leg.	1	122×20	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
9	Side walls of the table cabinet.	2	720×520	MDF 19 mm
10	Horizontal parts of the cabinet forming shelves.	3	520×312	MDF 19 mm
11	The lower vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet.	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
12	The upper vertical part of the internal partition of the cabinet.	1	312×184	MDF 19 mm
13	The middle horizontal part of the cabinet.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
14	Cabinet door.	1	477×346	MDF 19 mm
15	Cabinet shelf.	1	310×250	MDF 19 mm
16	Cabinet drawer front panel.	1	346×209	MDF 19 mm
17	The front panel of the drawer (located behind the front panel).	1	418×312	MDF 19 mm
18	Drawer side panels.	2	341×250	MDF 19 mm
19	Back panel of the drawer.	1	272×120	MDF 19 mm
20	Drawer bottom panel.	1	341×272	MDF 19 mm
	Handles for drawers and cabinet doors.	2	Ø 30 mm	Wood
	Upper leg element.	1	80×80×18	Multilayer plywood 18 mm thick
	Mobile table leg.	1	Ø top 55, bottom 30, height 702	Wood
	Furniture hinges for connecting two parts of the tabletop.	2	Ø 50 mm	Metal
	Furniture door hinges.	2	The size depends on the shape.	Metal
	Bottom end panels covering the gap under the cabinet.	2	20×300×5	Plywood 5 mm

The drawings show a drawing of a table that can be relied upon in the process of manufacturing and assembling elements into a single structure.

The main dimensions of the table (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge) Individual components of the table - a drawer and a guide channel for moving the legs (the illustration is clickable - click to enlarge)

To manufacture all the parts listed in the table, you will need modern electric tools that can bring the workpiece to professional perfection.

Find out how to do it with a photo and description in a special article on our portal.

Installation of a folding table-cabinet

You should start making a table with its most important and largest part - the table top. Since the table is folding, this element will consist of two parts - stationary and “mobile”, that is, one that can be folded down if necessary. When folded, this table can easily serve as a regular compact cabinet.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	The first step is to make 25 mm thick plywood using a jigsaw or circular saw, it is necessary to cut blanks for the tabletop, measuring 600×600 and 600×475 mm.
	Next, markings are made on the larger panel - a semicircle is drawn, since the front of the table should be rounded. In order to achieve the correct shape of a semicircle, you can use a large construction compass, or make one yourself - from a nail, pencil and rope.
	Then, along the marked line, the tabletop is rounded. This can be done using a jigsaw or circular saw, installing the appropriate compass attachment on it.
	Next, a cutter of the desired configuration is installed on the milling machine, which will make the edges of the tabletop smooth, or, if desired, even or rounded.
	The semicircular part of the panel is processed with a milling cutter, leaving the side that will join the second part of the tabletop flat. Then its edges are processed in the same way.
	The next step is to place the two processed parts of the tabletop on a flat table at a distance of 5 mm from each other. Markings are made for installing furniture hinges. They must be placed at a distance of 100-120 mm from the edge of the tabletop. Furniture hinges can have different shapes, so they should be laid in the marked place and outlined with a simple pencil. Then, using a router, special shaped grooves are made in the plywood, the depth of which should be equal to the thickness of the furniture hinges. The hinges are fixed into the finished holes using self-tapping screws.
	After connecting the two parts of the tabletop with hinges, in the middle of the panels, markings are made on their lower side to secure the parts that will form a closed channel for the movement of the moving table leg. The guides should be fixed at a distance of 30 mm from the junction of the two parts of the tabletop. For the manufacture of parts, plywood with a thickness of 18 mm is taken. Then, 10 elements are cut out of it and processed with a milling cutter: 530×30 mm in size - 2 pieces, 530×20 mm - 2 pieces, 120×30 mm - 2 pieces, 122×30 mm - 1 piece, 120× 20 mm - 2 pcs., 122×20 mm - 1 pc. It is important to remember here that long slats should have 45˚ cuts on one edge, and short elements on both sides, so that when joined, they form a right angle. In addition, the upper long and short parts, fixed on top of the lower rails of the guides, are cut off from the ends, also at an angle of 45˚. These cuts are necessary so that their angles do not interfere with the movement of the leg along the formed channel. Then, the parts are glued with wood glue to the marked area of ​​the rounded, and then to the rectangular part of the tabletop. First, the longest slats measuring 530×20 mm are fixed with glue and then screwed with self-tapping screws; then a piece of 122×20 mm covers the channel. On top of the long and short fixed slats, second ones are glued, having the same length, but greater width; they are also additionally screwed with self-tapping screws. Thus, an even channel is formed between the table top and the top rail, along which the leg will move. It is very important to calculate the location of the places where the screws are screwed in so that the top ones do not collide with those that secure the bottom slats. Four parts are fastened to the rectangular part of the tabletop in the same way. All elements must be processed until smooth and perfectly evenly fastened to each other, otherwise the leg will bump into obstacles and jam when moving.
	The leg is usually made using lathe. If it is not there, then you can order it from a master or purchase it ready-made. As a last resort, you can make it square by processing the timber of the required height until smooth. Then, using a dowel and glue, a square plywood guide plate measuring 80x80x18 mm is attached to the upper end of the leg using a dowel and glue.
	Next, after the glue has dried, the leg can be installed in the channel intended for it and tested for its free movement, without jamming. If necessary, minor adjustments and modifications can be made.
	The finished tabletop is painted or coated with water-based varnish - if the goal is to preserve the textured pattern of the plywood. After this, the finished tabletop is put aside and proceed to the manufacture of the cabinet.
	The elements of the cabinet do not have complex configurations, therefore, to make them, it is enough to accurately transfer the dimensions of the parts indicated in the table on an MDF panel or thick plywood and carefully cut them out using a jigsaw or saw. After the parts are made, their end parts must be processed smoothly with a milling cutter, otherwise they will look sloppy.
	If you plan to cover the visible end parts of the cabinet parts with a special laminated edge tape, then this process is carried out using a regular iron. The tape on its inner side has a layer of glue, which heats up under the influence of heat and ensures reliable fixation of the edge on the surface of the end parts of the MDF panels.
	The next step in the cabinet door panel is to make shaped grooves into which furniture hinges will be installed and secured. The holes are made in the same way as in the countertop using a router, but in this case the cutter can also be installed in a screwdriver, since MDF has a lower density than plywood and is easier to process without chipping the material. The hinges should be placed at a distance of 100 mm from the edges of the door - before starting drilling, it is necessary to carry out careful markings. A similar procedure is carried out with the wall of the cabinet on which the door will be attached. Then the walls and doors are joined together to check the correct installation and to mark holes for the screws.
	In addition to the hinges, you can immediately screw the prepared handle to the door. To do this, step back 50 mm from the edge of the panel and find a convenient height position, mark a point through which a through hole is drilled to secure the handle.
	All manufactured parts of the cabinet are painted with paint of the selected color using a roller and brush. Paint will not only make the product aesthetically attractive, but will also protect the material from the negative influence of a specific kitchen humid environment.
	Next, you can proceed to assembling the bedside table. Professionals carry out this process using special tools, but they can be easily replaced with improvised devices. For example, you can carry out the assembly on a flat table, and for ease of installation of the cabinet, it is additionally installed on flat bars. Mutual fastening of parts can be done using wooden dowels, metal furniture corners or self-tapping screws - the latter option is the simplest, but also the most unreliable. In addition, the screw heads will have to be masked with various compounds after assembly. The assembly process proceeds as follows: - The bottom panel is placed on the stands. - One of the side panels is leveled on it and using a construction corner, and its location is marked with a pencil. -The location of the fastening parts is immediately marked on the horizontal and vertical panels. - Exactly the same procedure is carried out with the second side and dividing middle wall. - Then holes are drilled at the marked points on the bottom and the end sides of the side panels for installing dowels. - After this, before gluing the parts together, locations for installing shelves are determined on the side walls. Then, shelf support brackets are mounted in the marked places, for which holes are also drilled. - Next, dowels coated with glue are installed in the holes drilled in the bottom, and the side walls are put on their upper, protruding part. - Fixed shelves-lintels are mounted in the same way, simultaneously with the side walls.
	Before continuing work, you need to make sure that the glue in the assembled structure has dried well. To make the cabinet stand more rigidly, it is laid on its side and pressed with clamps while it dries.
	While the glue dries, you can start assembling the drawer. Since it will be completely assembled from MDF, the installation of the box can also be carried out using dowels. The sides are attached to the bottom of the box, and a line is drawn along them with a pencil, and then marks are made of the places where the dowels will be installed. Then, the sidewalls are removed, and at the marked places, holes are drilled in their end for installing fasteners. The same is done on the bottom panel. Next, the dowels are coated with glue and carefully inserted into the holes, connecting the sides to the bottom.
	The sidewalls are screwed together using self-tapping screws, the heads of which are recommended to be recessed into the wood, and the holes to be sealed with a mixture of epoxy glue and sawdust. Another fastening option can be furniture corners, which are screwed from the inside to the sides with self-tapping screws. Each side will require two corners.
	When assembling the box, it is necessary to control the evenness of its corners using a construction angle and changing the diagonals, otherwise a skew may occur.
	If you plan to install metal roller guides for easy movement of the drawer, then first, the location of their attachment is determined on the sides of the drawers and on the inner walls of the cabinet. To do this, using a pencil and a ruler, draw a line along which the guides will be fixed.
	Next, a front panel is installed to the front of the drawer. It is screwed from the inside of the box, through pre-marked and drilled holes. In addition to self-tapping screws, it is recommended to use glue to fasten the panel: it is applied to the front panel, and then the front panel is pressed against it, and they are tightened with four or five self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, a hole is drilled in the center of the facade panel, through which the handle is screwed.
	Finally, the long-awaited moment comes - connecting the cabinet and the countertop. It is recommended to first glue the stationary part of the tabletop to the surface of the cabinet, and then secure it with screws that are screwed in from the inside of the lower cabinets. But first, the tabletop needs to be positioned correctly. Part of the channel located on the permanently installed tabletop panel should rest against the side of the cabinet - it will serve as a stopper for the movement of the leg towards the table. The tabletop should extend beyond the edges of the cabinet on the drawer side by 50 mm, open shelves by 30 mm, and on the leg side by 120 mm.
	Having secured the tabletop, they proceed to the final installation and screwing the bedside table door onto the screws. Then the drawer is inserted, and the shelves are installed on the shelf supports.
	When closed, the table is compact, so it does not take up much space and looks quite aesthetically pleasing. If desired, you can choose other colors to decorate it, which will better harmonize with the interior of a particular room.
	When open, the table also does not take up much space and fits perfectly into one of the corners of the room. Thanks to its “light” design, it does not weigh down the interior, and the shape of the tabletop makes it safe for children. Therefore, this table option can be considered ideal for small apartments with small kitchens and rooms.

If you need to save money, or simply have a great desire to express yourself in carpentry, then you should not put off making your own. Moreover, the assembly will become not only an interesting and useful activity, but also very enjoyable, especially at the moment when the work is successfully completed.

For those who are confident in their abilities, we offer one more interesting option round table, which may well serve both at home and on the site.

Video: example of assembling a round table

And one more idea for a kitchen table, which, if not true, would also be within the power of a skilled owner to implement:

Video: lightweight kitchen table with collapsible design