To save money, you can make a drainage system yourself from scrap materials. In this case, they use not only purchased pipes, gutters, and other parts made of plastic or galvanized, but also ordinary plastic bottles. With a responsible approach to work, a self-made drain in a private home will last up to 10 years.

Creation of a drainage complex

The simplest drainage design is made of plastic pipes

The easiest way to assemble it is from plastic pipes. They are inexpensive, easy to process, and have a wide range of suitable parts. It is also possible to create a galvanized drainage system. If you don’t want to spend money, you can use plastic bottles.

Sometimes drainage systems are also made of wood. Pine, larch or fir are suitable for these purposes. Carpentry skills and significant material costs will be required, since high-quality wood is expensive.

Drawing up a diagram and carrying out calculations

When creating a drainage system from any materials, first of all make up detailed drawing future building. To do this, measure the roof along the perimeter and take into account the height of the building. When drawing up the diagram, the following is taken into account:

• length of roof overhang;
• the total number of funnels and pipes for drainage - they are located in the corners and every 10 meters of the overhang;
• slope of gutters (3–5 mm);
• distance between pipe holders – up to 1.5 m;
• the height of the lower drain above the ground surface is 30 cm.

For arrangement drainage system it is necessary to correctly make all the calculations and plan the purchase of building materials, which will avoid unnecessary costs. First of all, calculate roof area and are determined with the dimensions of the drainage parts:

The total number of gutter sections is determined depending on the sum of the lengths eaves overhangs everyone roof slopes on which the system is installed. Since a standard gutter is 3 or 4 m long, and a galvanized gutter is 2 m, the resulting amount must be divided by 2, 3, 4. The number of pipes is calculated based on the distance from the ground surface to the roof and the number of drains being installed.

Installation of polymer gutters

To make roof drainage with your own hands, you will need:

• sewer pipes for creating gutters;
• pipe elements for vertical parts drainage structure;
• tees and adapters for joining structural parts;
• sealing material;
• strips of metal sheets for hangers.

The tools for arranging a drainage system with your own hands will require an angle grinder with a disk for cutting metal, electric jigsaw, construction cord, screwdriver, screws.

To make a gutter piece from a pre-purchased sewer pipe, you need to cut it in half using an angle grinder. If this is not possible, use a hacksaw blade for metal. Also for creating gutters same size You can make templates from wood.

It is better not to cut sections of the pipe at the places where the risers are connected - this will make the structure stronger. 150–200 mm on each side of the drain pipe. The hole in the gutter section can be cut using a jigsaw.

The connection of gutter sections is carried out with a special silicone sealant or aluminum clips. Semicircles made of sheet plastic are glued as plugs.

Before you begin assembling the drain, you will need to make brackets. They are made from metal strips, bent to the shape of drainage systems.

Assembly of the entire structure is carried out after installation of the holders, which are secured with self-tapping screws on cornice board or supporting rafters. To maintain the required slope, use a construction cord. In the places where the drainage system is connected to the risers, tees are installed, not forgetting to seal the joints.

Galvanized steel systems

Galvanized steel drain

It is quite possible to independently create gutters and pipes from galvanized steel with your own hands. Will be needed metal sheet half a centimeter thick, metal scissors, a hammer, pliers and a marking marker.

According to a previously made project, the galvanized sheet is marked, after which the marked elements are cut out.

The cut strips are given the required shape using a mallet and pliers. To facilitate this task, as well as more accurate execution, you will need pre-made templates made of wood or pipe.

Spillways made from plastic bottles

Gutter and downspout made of plastic bottles

It is quite possible to make gutters and downpipes from plastic bottles. They will last a year or a little longer. But with a minimum investment similar option will help cope with excess moisture in the off-season.

To create a drain you will need:

• plastic bottles;
• scissors;
• electric drill;
• stationery stapler with staples;
• thin wire.

Only non-relief containers in the shape of a cylinder are suitable, since ribbing will lead to rapid clogging of the system.

To calculate the number of bottles and determine the slope angle of the gutter, it is necessary to measure the length of the drainage system along the entire perimeter of the roof. Next steps:

1. Remove the labels and cut off the bottoms and necks of the bottles.
2. Cut the resulting cylindrical elements along the seam with scissors.
3. Fasten the rectangles with an overlap using a stapler.

On the roof, the gutter structure is secured with wire through holes drilled in slate or metal tiles.

The process of installing a drain is simple. The neck of one bottle is inserted into the cut of the bottom of the other, after which the edge of the gutter section is installed into it. As a riser, cylinders stapled together using a stapler or necks connected with wire are used, creating the effect of watering cans.

As a temporary roof drainage system, this is the most profitable option. The materials at hand are free, and the time and labor costs are minimal.

Operation and Maintenance

Cleaning drains with water pressure

The water disposal complex requires systematic inspection. Regular drain cleaning can help identify problems. Drainage systems must be inspected at least once a year. Traditionally, cleaning is done in the spring, which is the best time to remove leaves and debris.

Cleaning of the drainage begins with the gutter elements. Cleaning is done with a soft brush and then washed with water. The use of sharp objects is not allowed, as they can damage protective coating. After this, you can begin checking the patency of the drain risers. Washing is carried out with a water jet under pressure (for example, from a hose).

Installation errors can cause problems with the system. An incorrect choice of the cross-section of pipe sections and the number of funnels will not allow you to cope with a large water flow. If the pipe is located very close to the wall of the house, this leads to wetness of the surface. Horizontal installation gutter sections causes water to accumulate and overflow these elements. This is especially dangerous in winter, when frozen moisture can damage system elements.

If you avoid mistakes and approach self-assembly drainage system responsibly, it will last almost as long as a purchased one.

To prevent water from the roof from washing away the foundation, a drainage system is installed. Are they from different materials more or less expensive, but in general, the costs are substantial. You can save a little if you assemble the drain yourself. The features and installation procedure will be discussed further.

Types of drainage systems

The most famous and common roof drains are made of galvanized metal. Let them not be as attractive as more modern options, but reliable and inexpensive. And this is important. What’s also good is that if you have the skill of a tinsmith or just have “straight” hands, you can make a drain out of galvanized steel with your own hands.

If we talk about others metal systems, then two of them belong to the elite category - copper and an alloy of zinc and titanium. They are certainly durable, but the price is very high. There is a more democratic option - metal drainage systems with polymer coating. They are quite affordable in price, you can’t fault them in appearance, and in durability – it depends on the manufacturer. If the technology is followed, they will happen for many years.

There is another type of roof drainage - made from polymers. They can withstand ultraviolet light, frost and heat, are highly durable, and look good. The disadvantage can be considered the rather high price, especially from European manufacturers. However, there are good options in the low-cost systems category.

Composition of drainage systems

Gutters are located under the roof overhang. They are mounted on special brackets that hold the system. Since the storm drain is located along the entire perimeter of the roof, there are corners - internal and external. All these elements must be connected tightly; for this there are gutter connectors with rubber seals. These elements are often considered unnecessary. Then the gutters are laid overlapping with an overlap of at least 30 cm and connected with self-tapping screws.

To drain water, holes are made in the gutter into which funnels are inserted. Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, the pipe must be made curved. For this, there are maple or universal rings (from some manufacturers). The drainpipe is attached to the wall of the house using special clamps, which have the same color as the entire system.

A system of the required configuration is assembled from all these elements. If you decide to buy ready-made elements and then assemble the drain yourself, the most best solution- have a house plan with dimensions on hand. Using it, they will quickly determine the composition of the system and calculate required quantity elements.

Installation features

Most of the questions arise about attaching brackets for the drain. It must be said right away that they are installed taking into account the fact that the gutters should have a slight slope towards the funnels. The minimum recommended slope is 3 mm. If you want the water to drain faster, you can make it larger - up to 10 mm.

If the length of the roof gable is less than 10 meters, the slope is made in one direction. If it is more, either they put an additional funnel (and a drainpipe) in the middle and form a drain to it, or the gutter in the middle of the pediment has the highest point and the slope goes from the middle in both directions.

When installing a drain with your own hands, you usually do this: nail the bracket at the highest point. Then the lowest one is nailed, taking into account the planned slope. A twine is stretched between them, along which all the others are attached. One recommendation - before forming a slope, check the horizontality of the line you are focusing on. Usually this is either a front (wind) board. Unfortunately, it is not always perfectly level. So check the verticality, and preferably with a hydraulic level or, at the extreme the case will suit and bubbly, but long length- at least a meter. You won’t be able to find your bearings with shorter ones at longer lengths.

Number of brackets and methods of attaching them

The number of brackets for installing a drain is calculated simply: the distance between two adjacent ones should be 50-60 cm. Divide the total length of the wall by this distance. To the resulting figure we add one (extreme bracket) and get the required quantity for one wall. All others are calculated similarly. If the building has a nonlinear shape, you will have to count one by one - corner elements must be supported on both sides.

Now directly about the methods of attaching the brackets. There are three possibilities:

Once again, please note that the brackets are nailed taking into account the created slope. If they are made of metal, they are bent using improvised means or special tool— hook bender (sold in the same place where gutters are sold). In this case, the gutter must be positioned so that the roofing material ends before reaching half of the gutter, and it is better that it is in the range of 1/2 - 1/3. This way, most of the gutter “catches” water, which is important during heavy rainfalls.

At what level should I mount it?

Now about how high to raise the gutter to the roofing material. If there is not much snow in your region, or the roof has a large angle of inclination, so that snow does not accumulate on it, you don’t have to worry too much and attach it wherever you like. Otherwise, the gutter must be lowered so that when the snow melts, the drain does not “go away.”

In the figure, the approximate trajectory of the melting snow is indicated by a dotted line. The far edge of the gutter should not intersect with it. By the way, it should be a couple of centimeters lower than the one located closer to the house.

If you cannot lower the gutter lower, you will need to install snow guards on the roof. They prevent massive snowfall. The snow gradually melts and comes off in small fragments, without harming the storm drain.

This is what a massive snow melt looks like. As you can see, the storm drain bracket does not interfere (this is a fitting)

Gutter installation

Gutters are placed in fixed brackets. There are two systems with different sequences of actions. The first has a specially formed groove at the edge of the gutter. The ends of the brackets are threaded into this groove, then the gutter is turned into place, secured with special tongues on the brackets. If you look at the photo, it will become clearer.

In the second system, installation begins from the side of the gable board. The far edge of the gutter is inserted into the locks located there, then pressed alternately into the locks on the front of the brackets.

The two fragments of the gutter must be connected using a special connecting element with rubber seals. But their cost is quite high, so two gutters are simply laid overlapping with an overlap of 30 cm (make sure that the joint is located along the water flow). For greater tightness, you can lay a strip of rubber between the two gutters and connect them with ordinary self-tapping screws (or with washers and rubber gaskets). After installing the gutter, its edges are closed with plugs.

Funnel fastening

Having assembled and installed the gutter on the brackets, the installation of the drain continues by installing funnels. They are placed in the lowest areas. If the funnels are located close to the corners, stepping back from the edge of the gutter about 20 cm, hand hacksaw a hole is cut out. It is better not to use a jigsaw or grinder - there is a high probability that the cutout will be too large.

A funnel is attached to this cutout, clinging to the outer edge of the gutter. Then it is wound up to the second edge and fixed there with special clamps.

Installation of drainpipes

Drainpipes are attached to the funnels. If the roof overhang is large, a rotating element is attached directly to the funnel, which allows the pipes to be brought closer to the wall and secured there. For fastening there are special clamps painted in the same color as the entire system. There they are different designs, but mostly they have a latch so that they can be dismantled without removing the screws that secure the pipe to the wall.

The clamps are installed at a distance of at least 1.8-2 m from each other. At the bottom, the drain can be led directly into the drainage system (if it is located nearby). If it is made simply around the foundation, the drainage pipe ends with a rotating element, which diverts water from the foundation to a distance of at least 20 cm.

In principle, you installed the drain yourself, but there is one more detail that will make operation much easier. A metal (preferably stainless) mesh is placed on the gutter. It prevents leaves and other large debris from entering the system.

Installing a grid will allow for less frequent maintenance of the system. This is especially true on tall buildings.

Homemade drain

Ready-made drainage systems are good, but not cheap. What to do if drainage needs to be done at the dacha and you need to spend a minimum for this? There are several very budget options. The first is to make a drain from plastic sewer pipes. They take the pipes large diameter(110 mm and more), good quality with a thick wall, cut them in half and use them as gutters. The same diameter or slightly smaller can be used as drain pipes. It is more convenient to buy ready-made brackets, but in principle, you can make them yourself. For more information on how to make a drain with your own hands from sewer pipes, watch the video.

Even more budget option- drainpipes made from plastic bottles. They cannot make a normal gutter, but the pipe funnels work normally.

The purpose of the roof over the house does not need to be explained. One of the functions is to protect the attic or attic from precipitation, i.e. from water leakage. But, flowing down the roof slopes, water inevitably ends up on the walls and foundation. As a result, the load-bearing elements of the building structure very quickly collapse.

Avoid destructive action water can be achieved by installing a roof drainage system. Before we begin the master class on installing gutters, a little theory.

Types of drainage systems

The drainage system has two classification criteria that determine its installation technology:

1. According to the manufacturing method - homemade, industrial.

Handicraft production, i.e. homemade roof drain. This system is supported by facts such as the ability to make a beautiful and unusual drain with your own hands. Manufacturing homemade system does not involve significant costs. In addition, it can be mounted according to a user-friendly scheme. An absolute drawback is the need for constant maintenance, since gutters are usually made of galvanized steel, which quickly rots. Among the shortcomings are the difficulty of joining individual elements and mediocre appearance.

Factory production (factory). This method involves maintaining all standards and parameters. That is, if necessary, you can easily connect different elements from different supplies from the same manufacturer.

2. According to the material used - plastic, metal.

According to the installation method, there are adhesive systems (installation occurs using glue) and adhesive-free systems (installation using rubber seals).

Advantages of plastic gutters:

• immunity to ultraviolet radiation. A high-quality plastic drainage system will not fade during its entire service life;

• not subject to corrosion;

• The adhesive system does not require maintenance, as the " cold welding» during which the connection of elements occurs at the molecular level;

• strength;

• light weight;

• worker temperature regime-40°С +70°С;

• ease of installation;

• availability of different colors;

• A wide variety of components allows you to create a drainage system of the desired configuration, which makes it indispensable for installation on broken roofs.

Disadvantages of PVC gutters:

• plastic may break due to mechanical stress. Therefore, such systems cannot be installed on high-rise buildings. A plastic drainage system is installed only on a low-rise private house;

• unsuitable for repair. A destroyed element cannot be restored;

• a plastic drainage system with sealing rubber bands requires periodic replacement of seals, which entails disassembling/assembling elements;

• high coefficient of linear expansion.

The drainage system made of metal profiles has several varieties: galvanized, copper, galvanized with polymer coating(painted). The main difference between them: cost and duration of operation. Appearance shown in the photo.

Advantages of metal gutters:

• strength;

• reliability;

• withstand significant snow loads and other environmental influences;

• do not support combustion;

• operating temperature -60°С +130°С;

• dimensional stability.

Disadvantages of metal gutters:

• high cost;

• significant weight of the entire system;

• complexity of installation;

• small selection of colors;

• the appearance of rust when the protective layer is damaged (exception is a copper drainage system);

• a small number of elements makes it suitable only for installation on roofs with angles of 90°.

Which drainage system is better, plastic or metal, is difficult to answer unequivocally, it all depends on specific conditions operation and other factors. In any case, the choice of a drainage system should be based on quality indicators, not price.

From the perspective of this classification, we will consider how to properly install a drainage system with your own hands.

Installation of a drainage system - instructions

Like any construction process, the technology for installing gutters includes the selection of a system, material and calculations.

There are several options for drainage systems depending on their bandwidth. For example, 100/75, 125/90, 150/110. This marking shows the ratio of the diameter of the pipe and the gutter. Clear system round section 125/100 and square section- in the photo.

Advice. Each manufacturer has its own sizes of gutters and pipes. Their configuration is also different. Therefore, do not even try to connect systems from different manufacturers.

Such a variety of systems is necessary so that each user can choose the one that suits his needs.

Choosing a drainage system

To choose the right water drainage system you need:

• find out the maximum precipitation level in your region;

• calculate the area of ​​the slope (S). Not all of them, but the largest in size. It is its size that will determine the choice of gutter

S = (A+B/2) x C

Nuance. For flat roofs(the slope angle does not exceed 10°) the formula takes the form
S = A x C

Based on these measurements, select the desired system in the table.

Once the system is selected, you need to determine the type and calculate the amount of materials. To do this, we will prepare drawings or plane diagrams with dimensions. They will simplify the calculation and then installation of the drainage system.

Calculation of the drainage system

Let us illustrate with the example of a house how to calculate the amount of materials for installing a drainage system.

Gutter - semicircular (semicircular cross-section) and rectangular (rectangular cross-section).

Designed to collect precipitation (rain and melt water) from the roof.

The length of the gutter is 3-4 m. It is secured with hooks and brackets, which are installed in increments of 60-90 cm, ensuring a slope of the gutter of at least 1 cm for every 3-4 meters.

Their number in linear meters is equal to the perimeter of the roof base. That is, the length of all surfaces on which the gutter will be mounted. Gutter sizes - sold individually in 3 and 4 m.p.

For a house the size of our example, you will need 3-meter gutters - 10 pcs. 4 meter - 1 pc.

Nuance. Round all dimensions to the whole length of the gutter. The fewer connections, the simpler, more reliable and cheaper the installation will be.

• Gutter angles (external (external) and internal, 90 and 135 degrees).

The corner gutter is designed to change the direction (distribution) of water flows. Installation method: mounted on external and internal corners roofs.

We will need 4 external corners and 2 internal ones, all with an angle of 90 degrees.

If a house or cottage has sharp or obtuse corners, you need to choose the system in which such corners exist.

Advice. Various angles can be made from a plastic gutter by cutting out part of the gutter and connecting the halves at the desired angle. The parts are connected using glue - cold welding.

• Gutters, connectors, gutter caps.

For our example - 4 funnels, 2 plugs. There can be 5 or 17 connectors, depending on the installation features of a particular system. In most gutter systems, the corners are attached directly to the gutter. But in some - using a connector.

In drainage systems where installation is carried out using glue, you need to use conventional connectors and compensation ones.

Compensation is installed when the roof length is more than 8 m.p. Its installation is carried out without the use of glue. This connector is designed to compensate for the linear expansion of the gutter during heating/cooling. For our example, 4 regular connectors and one expansion connector would be needed.

Advice. One funnel receives water from 10 m.p. gutters. If the wall is longer, you need to install two funnels. In our example, we did just that. In this case, the distance between two adjacent funnels cannot exceed 20 m.p.

• Gutter fastening hooks.

Hooks can be long or short. The first ones are designed for hanging the gutter on the rafters and are attached before installation roofing material. The second (short) ones are used to attach the gutter to front board, accordingly, it is possible to install on finished roof, i.e. covered with roofing material.

The gutter fastening hook is installed at intervals of 60 cm. In this case, installation near corners, funnels, plugs and at joints is mandatory. In our example there are 68 hooks.

• Drainpipes (for vertical drainage), pipe fastenings/brackets.

The pipe can be round or rectangular. Designed for vertical water flow.

The pipe bracket is designed for attaching the pipe to the wall. According to the installation method, they distinguish between “on stone” (for fixing on brick, stone or concrete wall. Fixation using hardware) and “on wood” (for fixing to wooden walls(timber, log, OSB). Fixation using self-tapping screws).

The number of pipes is determined by the number of funnels. In our example, there are 4 funnels, which means there are also 4 pipe installation locations. their length is equal to the total length of all walls along which installation is planned. Pipes are also sold in lengths of 3 and 4 m. You need to round up, since joints on the pipe are also undesirable. Those. if your house height is 3.5 m, you need to buy a 4 m pipe. 0.5 will go to waste or for other needs.

Pipe fasteners are installed every meter. At the same time, their installation near the knees is mandatory.

• Pipe elbow, drain (drain elbow).

If the structure of the house is similar to that shown in the photo, then for each riser (we have 4 of them) you need two universal elbows (total 8) and one drain (total 4).

The distance L is measured as shown in the figure.

Material prepared for the website www.site

Nuance. makes some adjustments to the calculation of the drainage system. The height of the attic wall affects the number and installation of gutters. The diagrams below show what needs to be taken into account when calculating.

Installation of a plastic (PVC) drainage system

1. Installation of drainage funnels (roofing, storm drains, water inlet) on the roof.

The gutter fastening hooks closest to the funnel are installed at a distance of 2 cm from it. They serve as holders.

Advice. The angle of inclination relative to the funnel is 2° or 3-4 mm. by 1 m. It is convenient to check the slope using a nylon thread.

With a wall length of 10 to 20 meters, it is more advisable to install the gutter in the following ways:

• Simple slope (straight) - the funnel is installed at the end of the slope.
• Double slope: “from the middle” or “towards the middle”.

In the first case, the middle gutter is at the highest point, and the water moves to the funnels located at the corners of the building. In the second case, the two outer gutters are at the highest point and the water moves to the funnel located in the middle between them. If the length of the gutter exceeds 22 meters, three funnels or a more powerful system are installed.

3. Installation of a regular and compensation gutter connector (if necessary).

Gutter connectors are installed between the brackets. On equal distance from them.

4. Cut the gutter into pieces of the required length. It is advisable to clean the cut area.

5. Connection of gutters with a funnel. The gutter is placed on brackets adjacent to the funnel, taking into account the linear expansion of the plastic.

The hole for the funnel can be drilled into in the right place gutters using a crown.

Some manufacturers mark funnels in such a way as to simplify installation. That is, the temperature scale is indicated on the side of the funnel. After checking the temperature outside, the gutter is installed at the desired level.

In adhesive systems, the funnel is one of the elements for which no glue is used during installation.

If provided, a sealing rubber band is installed at the junction of the gutter and funnel.

When laying the gutter, the connector must be coated with glue or the joint must be sealed with an elastic band.

The expansion connector is installed without the use of glue.

Nuance. To ensure that water flows in a given direction, it is better to make a “tear drop” at the end of the drain pipe.

7. Installation of corners and plugs for the gutter is carried out according to the same scheme.

Both the corner and the plug are mounted using glue or rubber seals.

8. Fastening clamps and installing drainpipes.

At the calculated distance, holes are drilled for fastening the clamp.

Pipe installation begins with installing an elbow (if necessary) or pipe into the funnel.

Glue or rubber seal are required.

Nuance. The lower pipe fits into the upper pipe with a gap of 2 mm. (linear expansion compensation).

The pipe is attached to the wall using a clamp. Which is installed in pre-drilled holes.

If necessary, a system of splitters (tees) is installed.

The ebb tide must be installed so that the water from it does not destroy the foundation of the house. For example, low tide diverts water into a canal drainage system or directly into a drainage well.

Installation of a plastic drainage system - video

Installation of a metal drainage system

Step-by-step guide, instructions for installing gutters for a roof made of metal profiles with your own hands.

1. Installation of two extreme brackets.

They can be installed on rafter system or on the cornice strip (frontal).

Advice. For normal outflow of water from the roof, the angle of inclination of the gutter towards the funnel should be 3-4 mm per 1.m.

The bracket is mounted using three self-tapping screws.

When the wall length is more than 10 m, a simple (straight) slope is performed. If the length is more than 10 m - double.

2. Open the gutters.

The saw area is cleaned with a file.

Advice. The saw moves in the “away” direction.

3. Cutting a hole for the funnel.

Advice. The diameter of the hole should be slightly larger than the diameter of the funnel.

Today, industrial gutters coated with a polymer layer are available for sale. Such structures can last quite a long time, but they are not cheap. Therefore, many owners country houses They prefer to make drainage systems themselves, using, for example, tin or roofing iron.

How to create a project

The main design elements of any drain are:

• gutters;
• funnels;
• drainpipes.

When rain or melt water flows from the roof, it first enters the gutter. Then it enters the funnels and goes through the drainpipes into storm sewer Houses. Gutters are attached to the roof structures using brackets. Clamps are used to secure drainpipes to the wall of the house.

When designing a drainage system country house it is important to decide on:

• gutter dimensions;
• cross-section of drainpipes;
• number of fasteners;
• step of installation of drainpipes.

It is believed that for buildings with a roof area of ​​up to 70 m², the diameter of the drainpipe should be 50-70 mm, and the gutter 70-115 mm. For a building with a roof area of ​​up to 100 m², these indicators should be 75-100 mm and 115-130 mm, and for an area over 100 m² - 90-160 and 140-200 mm, respectively.

Drainpipes in country buildings are usually installed at intervals of 8 m. That is, no more than 1-2 similar elements are usually installed on each wall of the house.

Brackets can be purchased or made independently at the rate of approximately 1 piece. per meter of gutter length. To install a drainage system with your own hands, you will need two clamps for each section of pipe.

When assembling the drainage system one-story houses In a small area, usually no more than two drainpipes are installed. Moreover, these elements are collected in in this case maximum of two segments. That is, to install a drain in such a building, you will need to make no more than 8 clamps.

What materials and tools will be required

To assemble a drain with your own hands, you should use galvanized sheet metal. Simple metal exposed to water will subsequently rust very quickly. It is believed that tin approximately 0.55 mm thick is best suited for the manufacture of drainage systems for country houses.

Brackets designed for attaching gutters to the roof can be purchased ready-made, or you can also make your own from strips of steel. In this case, the material should be thick enough. After all, during operation the gutter will be subject to quite serious loads. Make your own brackets from steel 2 mm thick.

Roof gutters can be made from sewer pipes or also from 0.55 mm thick sheet metal. In the latter case, you will need, among other things, a mallet. You will also need to prepare one old metal pipe that is strong enough.

How to make a gutter

The roofs of even a not very large country building usually have a significant area. Make the required number of semicircular gutters without special equipment for the drainage of a private house it will most likely be problematic. Therefore, self-made elements of this type usually have a triangular or U-shaped cross-section.

Gutters for country house drainage systems are manufactured using the following method:

• strips approximately 300-350 mm wide are cut from a sheet of tin;
• the strips are bent into a triangular or U-shaped groove.

For a one- or two-story suburban building, gutters of this size will most likely be sufficient. In order to ensure that the bends in the manufacture of this element of the drainage system are even, it is worth using the following technology:

• A marking line is drawn exactly in the center of the strip cut from a piece of tin;
• one half of the strip is placed under a thick board;
• the second half is folded over outer part boards.

When making a gutter, you should bend the tin not with your hands, but with a second board. In this case, the material will not flow in “waves”. It is better to bend the tin not with a thick, but with a thin board by about 20 mm.

In order to subsequently avoid injury when cleaning the drain, the edge of the gutter, which will subsequently be located on the outside, should be additionally bent inward twice. In order for the edge to be smooth, in this case you should use not a board as a template, but, for example, a steel corner.

How to make brackets

Fasteners for the gutter are usually made as follows:

• pieces approximately 400 mm long are cut from a steel strip 2 mm thick and 20 mm wide;
• the strips are bent in half at an angle of 90°;
• one of the sides is bent again 90° inward;
• two holes are drilled in the end bent in this way;
• the remaining long end is given a configuration corresponding to the cross-section of the gutter;
• drill holes for fasteners for the gutter.

The end of each strip, bent at an angle of 90°, will subsequently be attached to the roof structures. A gutter is installed on the strip itself during the installation of the system.

How to make drainpipes

Roof drainage systems for one-story houses are often made without drainpipes. Melted and rainwater when using such structures, it simply drains from the gutter extending beyond the plane of the wall down into a storm well or into a receiving barrel.

Of course, the easiest way is to equip a roof drainage system of this type for a private home. But if desired, of course, you can supplement this design with drainpipes. This element of the roof drainage system of a country house is usually made using a mallet using the following technology:

• a strip 300-350 mm wide is cut from a sheet of tin;
• the strip is installed on a metal corner;
• on both sides of the strip, on each side, the edges are bent at an angle of 90° in one direction;
• the workpiece is turned over and the bend angle increases to 150°;
• two more hook-shaped bends are made in the other direction;
• the workpiece is wrapped around some pipe of the appropriate diameter;
• the bends hook one after another;
• the hooks are tapped with a mallet until the metal is flattened.

Funnels for drainpipes are made using approximately the same technology. But in this case, a piece of tin is usually cut in the form of a trapezoid so that the funnel fits inside the drainpipe to a length of about 5-10 cm.

How to make clamps

These elements can also be made with your own hands if desired. In this case, it is worth using the same steel that was used to make the brackets. In this case, the strips should be cut in accordance with the diameter of the drainpipe. In order to find out the length of these elements, you just need to add 4-5 cm to the total circumference of the pipe.

After the strips are cut:

• holes are drilled on both sides of each of them at equal distances;
• The “ears” are bent using pliers or a vice.

Each clamp is subsequently made from three of the following elements:

• additional holes are drilled in the center in two strips;
• all strips are bent in a semicircle along a piece of some pipe;
• strips with central holes are connected to each other with bolts in perpendicular planes.

Subsequently, when installing drainpipes, an element assembled from two strips will be attached to the wall. The remaining strip will fix the pipe itself. The strips used to attach the clamp to the wall can, if desired, be made shorter than those that will “squeeze” the pipe.

How to assemble the system

Self-made ones are installed metal gutters on the roof as follows:

• brackets assembled from steel strips are attached to the frontal plate with two bolts;
• the gutter is installed in the brackets so that the edge of the roofing material enters it;
• the gutter is secured to the brackets with bolts;
• Drainpipes with funnels are fixed to the wall of the house using clamps.

The brackets should be attached to the frontal roof board in such a way that the gutter subsequently has a slope towards the funnel of the drainpipe of approximately 1-2 mm per 1 m. This element, of course, cannot be installed strictly horizontally. Otherwise, water will subsequently begin to stagnate in the gutter.

Also, the brackets are fastened taking into account that they also fit on the overlaps between separate elements gutters. The overlaps themselves must have a length of at least 15-20 cm.

Each subsequent element of the gutter should be installed on top of the previous one along the direction of its inclination. Otherwise, water will flow into the joints, which will negatively affect the operation of the drainage system.

Plastic pipes appearing on modern market, immediately took their leading position. But the most important thing is that today they are used in many construction processes, so to speak, not for their intended purpose. And they are to blame for this technical specifications products. Namely:

• ease of assembly without the use of any tools, because they are connected using a bell-type system;
• small specific gravity, which makes it easy to carry them or lift them to high platforms;
• low cost when compared with metal, glass, asbestos pipes and so on;
• they are easy to process and can be cut perfectly both lengthwise and crosswise with a grinder, a hacksaw and a regular saw;
• can be used in all systems where water flows;
• service life more than 50 years.

God himself ordered the use of plastic pipes in the manufacture of such a system as a drain for a private house. Making a drain using plastic pipes is simple, cheap, and even, one might say, beautiful. By the way, the surface of plastic pipes can be easily painted, so you can make a drain out of them with your own hands that fits exactly into the design of the house and the entire landscape suburban area, it won't be difficult.

We buy materials for drainage

So, the first thing that needs to be done is to purchase the required number of plastic pipes, as well as additional elements for the drainage system, and these are fittings, clamps, brackets, and so on. Although, if the conversation is about how to make a drain with your own hands, then we will try not to buy anything other than pipes and fittings, but to make everything from scrap materials.

You need to make a rough calculation of the number of pipes. They will be used to make gutters installed under the eaves of the house, and the actual pipes for the drain risers. As for gutters, their number is determined by the length of the cornices. And since each plastic pipe will be cut into two parts (the cut will be made lengthwise), the number of pipes for gutters is halved. Of course, you will have to take into account not the length of the pipes itself, but the segment without sockets.

This means that you need to measure the length of the cornices, divide this indicator by two, you get the total length of the gutters. This value must now be divided by the length of one pipe, which has maximum size 6 m.

As for the pipes of the drain risers, there is no need to cut them; they are installed into each other using a socket connection system, where a rubber cuff (seal) is used. Their number will depend on two indicators:

• height of the walls of the house;
• number of drain risers.

The height will have to be measured with a tape measure from the ground surface to the cornice. It is necessary to subtract 25 cm from this value - this is the standard recommended distance from the drain to the ground. Now the result obtained is multiplied by the number of risers. How to determine how many risers should be in the drainage system of a house. Here, first of all, the area of ​​​​the slopes is taken into account roofing system. The larger the area, the more water will flow into the drain. And this volume will need to be discharged by the number of risers. The minimum distance between them is 5 m. But if the house is small, then installation is carried out in the corners of the building. For example, if this is a house with gable roof, then four risers will be enough.

Now regarding the diameter of plastic pipes. There is a certain relationship between the diameter and area of ​​the slopes. Look at the table.

As practice shows, optimal solution choice is the second position. You can't go wrong.

So, the number of plastic pipes for the drainage system has been determined, their sizes have been selected, and procurement can be carried out. But before that, let's decide on the number of fittings. As for the elbows (bends), much will depend on how the roof overhang is located, whether there is a decorative elements. Therefore, there will be either two or four bends in this area. Let's add drain bends here, it is better to use them with an angle of 45°, they are also called half-bends. Do not forget about the knees in the tray system; they are usually installed at the corners of the building if it has a multi-slope roof, for example, a hip roof.

Expansion elements, which are included in the category of fittings, can be used as funnels in this drainage structure. They are usually called adapters, but it is better to purchase ready-made funnels for drains. They cost pennies, so you can splurge on them. Their number is equal to the number of vertical pipe risers.

How to make your own fasteners

Now we move on to the fastening part of the house’s drainage system. There are two varieties:

• brackets for gutters;
• and brackets for drain pipes.

The first can be made from a metal strip 2-3 mm thick and 20-30 mm wide or from wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm. Just need to bend metal profile to the required size and shape. Approximately the same as shown in the figure below. The shank of the bracket can be bent or be as shown in the photo, all this will depend on how it will be attached to the load-bearing element of the roof.

As for brackets with a clamp for riser pipes, it is more difficult to make it yourself, so here’s some advice:

Advice! Buy clamps at hardware store, they are cheaper than funnels. In addition, you can choose them by color so that it matches the color of the pipes.

Do-it-yourself plastic drainage installation

So, everything is ready, you can proceed directly to the installation process. It starts from the top, that is, with the installation of gutters. How to do it all right?

• A place is determined that will be exactly in the middle between the risers of the structure. This is the most high place drain system.
• The self-tapping screw is screwed in here. Please note that the tray itself must be installed in such a way that the roof overhang, or rather its lower edge, falls exactly into the middle of the axis of the folded gutters. A slight deviation in one direction or another is permissible.
• Now you need to determine the lowest point of the drain system. According to SNiP, the angle of inclination of the drain is established, which is 2-5 mm per one linear meter length of the structure. It turns out that if the distance between risers made of plastic pipes is 10 m, then the lowest point should be 2 cm lower than the top. This is if a difference of 2 mm is taken into account.
• At this point the bracket is installed and secured.
• After that, a fishing line is stretched between the bracket and the self-tapping screw at the top point; this is the line for installing intermediate brackets, the distance between which should be within 50-60 cm.
• We fasten the intermediate and upper fasteners.
• Let's move on to laying plastic gutters with our own hands. We start from the top point.

Attention! There is one point that will simplify the installation of plastic pipes and make the drain more durable.

To do this, it is necessary not to cut the pipe sockets lengthwise to the end. It is better to leave them as a locking connection. By the way, a rubber cuff located inside the socket will be used in this case, which will ensure the tightness of the connection.

DIY drain made of plastic pipes - assembly of risers

This process is no different if plastic pipes would be used, for example, to assemble sewer system. Everything is exactly the same, only in the vertical direction. You need to start from the bottom, retreating from the surface of the earth by 25-35 cm.

• A plumb line is suspended from the funnel, showing the installation line of the risers.
• Along the line, clamps are installed directly along the wall, which are attached to the load-bearing element of the house with self-tapping screws.
• The distance between the clamps is 1.8-2.0 m. If the drain, or rather its riser, rises above 10 m, then it is better to reduce the distance between the fasteners to 1.5 m.
• The distance from the lower end of the plastic pipe installed first to the fastening point is 25-30 cm.

Now the pipes are inserted into the clamps and secured to them. The connection itself is made by inserting the edge top tube into the lower socket. There are no sealants or adhesives, everything is tightly connected using rubber gaskets.

As you can see, making a drain from plastic pipes with your own hands is not very difficult. The main thing is to accurately calculate, measure and install everything. If some element somewhere does not fit, then everything can be adjusted, because plastic pipes are easy to cut.