Tile is considered a standard finishing material for places where there is high humidity. Most people give it greater preference when it comes to renovations in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. The latter, by the way, can be finished with other necessarily moisture-resistant materials, but tiles, nevertheless, are always present. For example, in the form of an apron (screen on the wall) in the sink area

The work of a tiler is highly valued. Professional craftsmen know what types of adhesives are best to use for laying tiles, how to lay tiles on the walls so that they look beautiful and how to calculate the material in order to buy everything you need without spending too much.

Possession of the skills of such a profession is both useful and interesting. Many people have long appreciated this fact, and if it is necessary to carry out tiling work in their home, they are in no hurry to invite craftsmen, using their own strength.

Installation of tiles on the floor and walls

Before laying tiles on the floor, it is necessary to prepare the base so that you do not have to deal with alterations later. A perfectly flat floor surface is considered high quality. Any differences must be eliminated.

The best way to obtain an ideal surface - arrange a leveling screed. Calculation of the thickness of the screed layer should take into account the thickness of the tile. As a result, after completion of work, opening and closing of interior and entrance doors should be free and not encounter obstacles.

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands is a job carried out in several stages. Beginners in the business have to use various manuals and information contained on the Internet. Only then, having gotten their hands on it, as they say, can they do without any hints, and before that, construction reference books and materials from construction sites become their assistants.

Particular interest is shown in the visual form of storytelling. Popular various videos and a photo of laying tiles with your own hands. Such materials are viewed not only if you want to finish the floors, but also the walls.

As for the choice wall surfaces as areas for cladding, the preparation process for the main tile covering looks similar to the floor.

The walls are cleared of old coatings and plastered to create an even layer for the tiles. Sometimes plaster seems useless and to obtain a smooth surface the walls are sheathed with sheets of plasterboard.

Laying tiles on drywall

Indeed, if the area of ​​the room is large enough, and carrying out plastering works seems too labor-intensive, they resort to other, less complex preparatory techniques. For example, for sheathing with gypsum board sheets. The process is all the more attractive if you consider that the tiles can be attached to the surface using a special liquid glue.

Arranging the rows starts from the bottom. The properties of the glue allow the tile to quickly and firmly adhere to the surface. If tiles fall out on any part of the wall, this place can be easily restored to its original form.

Installation of tiles in bathrooms

When work is carried out independently and, moreover, for the first time, it is best not to just look for any information on the Internet or reference books, but to strive to obtain specific information. The best information would be step by step instructions laying tiles in relation to a certain type of surface base.

The most common bases are concrete, block, brick and wood. Each of them has its own instructions, which are somewhat similar to the others, but at the same time have certain differences.

Special difficulty has tiling in the bathroom. When renovating such a room, you need to take into account the increased number of pipes on the walls and floor, as well as plumbing equipment (bathtub, shower, and so on). The same is true when renovating a toilet.

Sometimes people don't resort to tiling back wall so as not to dismantle the toilet. The tiles are replaced with imitation screens. The same technique is used in the bathroom.

To create a beautiful appearance and do without removing the bathtub itself, they install moisture-resistant gypsum board cladding underneath it, followed by painting or tiling, or install special roller screens.

In addition, in order to lay out rows evenly and avoid pressure from the next row on the previous one, plastic crosses are used, which are installed along the lines of vertical and horizontal seams.

Selected for floors and walls different types crosses. For vertical laying of tiles, thinner types are used. The thicker ones go to the floor. The use of such elements helps to create clear geometric lines. In addition, after grouting the seams, the tiles have a truly finished look.

Photo of the process of laying tiles with your own hands

There is no need to resort to the services of expensive professionals for installation. tiles. With the right approach and preparation, cladding costs can be minimized. Considering the average prices for laying tiles, the savings can be significant. It is necessary to strictly adhere to the rules if you plan to lay tiles with your own hands, so that the result is the most attractive, functional and durable. So, laying tiles involves the following steps:

1. surface preparation (forming screed, plastering walls);
2. marking the location of the first row and installing support stops;
3. laying the first row or several multidirectional rows according to the markings;
4. filling the entire area with solid tiles;
5. cutting and laying tiles to fill the remaining areas;
6. grouting joints (jointing).

Tools for tiling work

The tools required for surface preparation are selected depending on the required operations and technologies for performing the work. Directly for installation you will need the following:

• trowel, trowel, notched trowel, rubber spatula, small level (30-40 cm), medium level (60-80 cm), plumb line, rubber hammer, solution container. In places where a whole tile does not fit, you will need to cut and cut it, for this you will need: a tile cutter (mechanical or electric), pliers or wire cutters, a large needle file or sandpaper, an angle grinder.

Calculate the amount of materials!

In order to correctly evaluate required quantity tiles, you should not only measure the square footage of the surface for cladding, but also estimate the number of tiles that need to be cut into pieces. All this depends on the complexity of the walls and floor and the presence of various obstacles in the form of pipe outlets, corners, protrusions in the wall, etc. Approximately follows on top of the calculated quantity square meters take enough tiles to lay two rows along two adjacent walls.

For gluing tiles, it is best to use specialized adhesives. This is especially true for bathroom and kitchen cladding, where it is necessary to use moisture-resistant compounds. Moreover, when proper preparation surface, the solution consumption is minimal, and the cost of installation is significantly reduced.

Read more about calculating materials for tile work.

Step 1. Surface preparation

In order for the tiled surface to be perfectly smooth and durable, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface. Under no circumstances should you expect that small uneven areas in the floor or wall can be covered by using more mortar under the tiles. A high-quality result can only be achieved when all the material is laid evenly on a small layer of adhesive.

Before laying tiles on the floor, a screed should be formed. In the bathroom and toilet, a layer of waterproofing is necessarily formed. Screeding can also be done using the wet method, adhering to the appropriate technologies. It is best to lay tiles on concrete base, that is, on wet screed. If the old coating is being replaced, then it is used and the surface is leveled cement mortar.

In order to tile the walls, it is necessary to get rid of all the old covering and plaster the walls with obligatory reinforcement with construction mesh. It's best to do this. You should not use putty, nor should you try to achieve a perfectly smooth surface; this may impair the adhesion of the adhesive.

All skirting boards, door frames and thresholds are dismantled. The prepared surface must be cleaned of dust, dirt and primed.

If you are confident in the reliability of the layer old tiles or just want to save time - check out. But in any case, this practice is only suitable for notorious lazy people.

Step 2. Marking and installing supports

options for custom floor coverings

Before laying, it is necessary to prepare markings and stops for the first row along which the tiles will be installed.

Walls

Fixed at the very bottom plastic corner or a wooden strip on which the first row will rest. Using a plumb line, a line is drawn to control the verticality of the installation. In case of using multi-colored tiles or various types mosaic installations, it is best to mark with marks the places of installation of tiles that differ from the mass.

Floor

A line is drawn for the spaced edge of the tiles of the first row. The locations of the tiles that will differ from the main mass when the pattern is formed are marked. Laying floor tiles starts from the far corner. In this case, if necessary, you should shift the location of the first tile so that a solid fragment is laid at the entrance without the need to trim it. The calculations take into account not only the size of the tiles, but also the gap between them.

Step 3. Laying solid tiles

traditional tiling schemes

Having prepared the markings and guidelines, you can begin installation. To do this, a solution of tile adhesive is applied to the wall using a notched trowel, as thick as the teeth. The tile is first leaned against a support or on the crosses below, after which you need to carefully lay the tile with your own hands on the mortar. There is no need to press it down. By slightly turning the tile along the axis with light movements, maximum adhesion of the product to the mortar is achieved.

Remember that removing the tile from the surface after laying it on the mortar will be problematic, so you should immediately position it as correctly as possible. You can only move it slightly to the sides. The correct installation should be checked using a level in all directions and in relation to the already laid rows. If it is necessary to deepen the tile a little, use a rubber hammer. There are crosses in the corners to maintain gaps. After this, you can begin further installation.

Do not press down the tile too much so that the mortar protrudes along the edges. All gaps between them should be as clean as possible. In the future, grout will be used, which will prevent moisture and dirt from getting under the tiles and will give an aesthetic appearance to the entire surface.

When your hand is already full, you can apply the solution, taking into account the laying of several tiles at a time. In this case, after distributing the mortar, the tiles are installed in their places and settled on the mortar with small circular movements. After this, the crosses are quickly distributed into the gaps and, using a level, the entire laid row is pressed in various directions, adjusting it to the general level.

After completing the first row, it is best to wait for the glue underneath to set properly. After this, it will be much easier to lay subsequent tiles on the wall. It is important to remember that if, after laying the next row, it is decided to take a break from work, then all the mortar that is located not under the tiles, but along the edges, must be removed. If this is not done and it dries, then before continuing work you will have to chip off the frozen mortar, which will affect the strength of the connection of the already laid tiles. All excess mortar is also removed in places left for laying cut tiles.

Step 4. Fill in the remaining areas

Having laid out the entire space where solid tiles are used, you can begin cutting the missing pieces and installing them. You can also use a glass cutter, but it is better to use a manual, machine or electric tile cutter; in extreme cases, a grinder will do. In the latter option there will be a lot of dust, so it is better to do pruning outside. Tile marking is done taking into account gaps on all sides.

In order to form an uneven cut, use either manual tile cutter-nippers, or an electric machine with a diamond wheel. More details on how to do this are written below.

Step 5. Grouting (jointing)

After completely laying the tiles on the wall or floor, you should wait until the adhesive solution dries. After this, all the crosses between the tiles are removed and the joints are jointed. To do this, you can use cement-based, silicone or epoxy grouts. First of all, you should select a suitable grout according to the color scheme of the selected coating. In terms of characteristics, they differ little from each other, except for the method of preparation and use. Cement grout is distributed dry and must be diluted with water immediately before use. Silicone and epoxy grout are sold ready-to-use in sealed containers.

Before jointing, it is necessary to completely clean the surface of the tiles and the seams between them. It is better to use a vacuum cleaner for this purpose. After this, if silicone or epoxy grout, the edges of the tiles are additionally covered with masking tape. If this is not done, it will be difficult to remove the dried mixture from the glazed surface of the tile.

Next, using a rubber spatula, it is applied over the seam without large number grout and pressed deep. By placing a rubber spatula across the seam and pressing along it, the excess is removed. In this case, the seam deepens a little and is evened out.

The masking tape and grout residues should be removed after it has completely dried. Having cleaned and washed the entire tiled surface, the work can be considered complete.

Note: installation is done in the same way ceramic tiles. The differences partly relate only to the nuances in the methods of cutting tiles.

A little about cutting tiles

Almost no tiling work can be completed without the need to trim it. This can be done most in various ways: starting from a glass cutter and ending with modern machines with a diamond cutting wheel. If a mechanical hand tool is used, the process is similar to cutting glass. In this case, the cutting wheel draws a line along the markings on the glazed side of the tile. After which scrapping is carried out. Floor tiles are more massive and cannot be cut beautifully with a glass cutter. For all types of tile cutters, the cutting wheel has a significantly larger diameter 1.6 cm to form a deeper incision.

For example, consider the cutting option using a mechanical tile cutter:

1. This tile cutter has a platform for placing tiles with limiters on which ruler markings are applied. This makes it easier to cut a whole row of tiles same size. We adjust the stops to the required distance so that the intended cutting line falls on the line in the middle of the tool.
2. At the top of the tool, a carriage runs along two guides, equipped with a cutting wheel and a folding stop, the petals of which are located at an angle to each other, as well as a lever. We move the carriage to the edge farthest from us. Place the wheel on the edge of the tile and apply pressure along its surface along the cutting line.
3. After this, the stop on the carriage is located in the middle of the cut and light pressure is used to stake the tile.

The difficult part is not the straight cut or diagonal, but the curly cutouts with a semicircular shape or several bends for exiting wires, bypassing sockets or exiting water pipes. In this case, the shape of the cutout is marked on the glazed side, and the cutting wheel of a manual tile cutter is carefully drawn along the line. After this, you can bite off the unnecessary part of the tile piece by piece until only the part required in shape remains. The resulting edge will be quite uneven; to solve this problem, use a file or sandpaper.

When using an electric machine, the entire part that should be removed on the tile before marking is cut into thin strips and bitten off, the edge is also compared with a file.

• It’s good if the length of the row fits the tiles without the need to trim the end. If this is not the case, then the row of installation should be shifted so that the last tile is intact. If the remaining gap requires a piece of 1-2 cm, the row is further shifted so that wider pieces are placed on both edges. This will eliminate the need for labor-intensive cutting of narrow strips of tile.
• The same applies to marking the position of rows in height, especially when laying is not done to the ceiling, but to a certain level, for example, tiles are often laid in the kitchen. It is worth distributing the rows in such a way that the first bottom row was formed from pieces, and the top from solid tiles. It is better to start laying with whole tiles, while raising the initial support bar to the required level.
• It is best to lay tiles in the corridor, starting from filling the space along the long walls, leaving a gap of one tile in the middle or at one of the edges. In this case, it is imperative to apply marking lines in order not to get lost and not make the remaining opening narrower than the tile.
• If used various options laying in the form of a figured structure or using tiles of different colors, you should designate in advance the locations of tiles that differ in shape, direction or design. Separating individual tiles diagonally to form a pattern by spacing the joints is often used. In this case, it is better to leave the places with the installation of cut tiles for filling last.
• Be sure to read the instructions for the tile adhesive you are using. Some options involve moistening the surface of the tile before installing it on the layer glue solution, applied to the wall.

Video: laying tiles on the floor

Video: laying tiles on the wall

Laying tiles on the floor is an excellent solution when arranging flooring in rooms exposed to increased external influences. In kitchens, bathrooms, toilets and corridors, tiled flooring has no equal in practicality, strength, wear resistance and durability.

When carrying out almost any renovation in an apartment, the question arises of purchasing finishing materials. There are a large number of products available in construction markets and stores, including various floor tiles. When choosing tiles, you need to consider a number of recommendations:

1. The ceramic coating on the floor must be hard and durable. It is not allowed to cover floors with wall tiles, as they do not have the required characteristics.
2. Increased demands are placed on the chemical resistance of tiles to aggressive environments (alkalies, salts, acids, etc.). You need to purchase coatings belonging to classes A and AA.
3. Abrasion resistance is an important selection criterion that directly affects the service life of the material. In kitchen areas, floor tiles with wear resistance class 3 are laid. For corridors, class 4 is more suitable; for bathrooms, class 2 is sufficient.
4. Floors should be tiled non-slip tiles, having a rough or embossed surface with a friction coefficient of 0.75.
5. The tile should harmonize well with the overall interior of the room, both in color and texture.

When purchasing, you need to take into account not only the beautiful appearance of the tile covering, but also a number of performance characteristics.

Required quantity calculator

Required tools and materials

You can lay the tiles on the floor correctly and carefully with your own hands, then you won’t have to resort to the help of master tilers and you’ll be able to save money. First of all, you need to prepare the necessary tools and calculate the amount of materials.

For tiling work you will need:

• rubber spatula for grouting between tile joints;
• trowel (trowel);
• notched spatula 16-20 cm wide;
• tile cutter (grinder, nippers);
• pliers, sandpaper, needle file;
• rubber mallet (mallet);
• 2 building levels: 30-40 and 60-80 cm;
• plastic bath for mixing mixtures;
• plastic crosses or wedges for fixing gaps between tiles;
• marker, pencil, tape measure, gloves, clean rags.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor yourself is not that difficult, you just need to follow the appropriate instructions and recommendations.

Adhesive mixtures

Available for sale large selection glue mixtures. They are available in the form of ready-made glue, packaged in large plastic buckets, as well as in the form of dry mixtures in bags or bags. Dry compounds need to be diluted with water; they can be made before installation. When preparing them, be sure to follow the attached instructions and maintain the required proportions. The advantage is the ability to dilute and turn into glue the amount of material required for installing tiles; besides, the powders are cheaper.

Flow calculator

Product	Tile adhesive UNIS 2000 / UNIS 2000 (25 kg) Tile adhesive UNIS PLUS / UNIS PLUS (25 kg) Tile adhesive UNIS XXI / UNIS XXI (25 kg) Tile adhesive RUSEAN FIXATOR (25 kg) Leveling tile adhesive OSNOVIT MASTPLIX AC12 T (T -12) (25 kg) Quick-hardening tile adhesive OSNOVIT SCORPLIKS T-15 (25 kg) Tile adhesive OSNOVIT STARPLIX AC11 (T-11) (25 kg) White tile adhesive with enhanced fixation OSNOVIT BELPLIX AC17 W (T-17) (25 kg ) Gray tile adhesive with enhanced fixation OSNOVIT MAXIPLIX AC16 (T-16) (25 kg) Tile adhesive OSNOVIT BAZPLIX T-10 (25 kg) Elastic tile adhesive OSNOVIT GRANIPLIKS AC14 (T-14) (25 kg) Effective tile adhesive OSNOVIT MASTPLIX AC12 (T-12) gray (25 kg) Plaster-adhesive mixture OSNOVIT KAVERPLIX TS117 (T-117) (25 kg) Tile adhesive ECO Basic (25 kg) Adhesive for tiles and porcelain tiles VETONIT EASY FIX / VETONIT EASY FIX (25 kg) Adhesive for tiles and porcelain stoneware VETONIT PROFI PLUS (25 kg) Adhesive for indoor tile work VETONIT OPTIMA (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL K17 / LITOKOL K17 porcelain stoneware (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL K47 / LITOKOL K47 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLEX K80 / LITOKOL LITOFLEX K80 facade (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLEX K81 / LITOKOL LITOFLEX K81 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOFLOOR K66 / LITOKOL LITOFLOOR K66 for thick-layer porcelain tiles (25 kg) tile LITOKOL LITOPLUS K55 / LITOKOL LITOPLUS K55 white (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOSTONE K98 / LITOKOL LITOSTONE K98 (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL LITOSTONE K99 / LITOKOL LITOSTONE K99 white ultra-fast setting (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL SUPERFLEX K77 / LITOK OL SUPERFLEX K77 for large-format heated floors (25 kg) Tile adhesive LITOKOL X11 / LITOKOL X11 for swimming pools (25 kg) Tile adhesive IVSIL TERMIX / IVSIL TERMIX (25 kg) Tile adhesive VOLMA CERAMIC PLUS (25 kg) Glue for white marble. glass and mosaics PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX WHITE (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles and porcelain tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA SMARTFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles and laying porcelain tiles on the floor PERFEKTA / PERFECTA STARTFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain tiles and stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA SMARTFIX PLUS (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain stoneware and natural stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA MULTIFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles. porcelain tiles and natural stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA MULTIFIX WINTER (25 kg) Adhesive for porcelain tiles. natural stone and clinker tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX (25 kg) Adhesive for porcelain tiles. natural stone and clinker tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HARDFIX WINTER (25 kg) Glass adhesive. mosaics and stone PERFEKTA / PERFECTA MULTIFIX WHITE (25 kg) Mounting adhesive for thermal insulation PERFEKTA / PERFECTA EKOTEK (25 kg) Reinforced adhesive for porcelain tiles and ceramic tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA HOLDER (25 kg) Elastic adhesive for natural stone and porcelain tiles PERFEKTA / PERFECTA GREE N LINE ECOFLEX (25 kg) Adhesive for all types of tiles on complex substrates BERGAUF Maximum (25 kg) Adhesive for ceramic tiles BERGAUF Keramik (25 kg) Adhesive for large-format and heavy slabs BERGAUF Granit (25 kg) ) Adhesive for expanded polystyrene mineral wool and reinforcing layer BERGAUF Isofix / BERGAUF Isofix (25 kg) White cement adhesive for transparent tiles and mosaics BERGAUF Mosaik / BERGAUF Mosaik (25 kg) Reinforced adhesive for ceramic tiles BERGAUF Keramik Pro / BERGAUF Keramik Pro (25 kg )
Surface area m2
Layer thickness, mm.

You can lay tiles on the floor using a simple cement-sand mortar instead of ready-made mixtures. The use of such a composition allows you to eliminate minor floor defects (unevenness, bumps, depressions, etc.) during the installation process. It is more difficult to work with a cement composition, but with some skill the quality of the masonry will be no worse, and the cost will be significantly lower. The best option is a combination of sand, adhesive powder and high-quality cement. This composition is economical, reliable and easy to use.

Grout

Grout for joints between tiles (fugue) is a special composition that fills the remaining voids between laid tiles. It comes in a variety of colors. Tiled floors with contrasting grout look bright and unusual. The grout composition, similar in tone to the tile, creates the effect of monolithicity of the entire coating. The seam width varies from 2 to 20 mm.

Flow calculator

Solutions density coefficients:
The data in the list is approximate, so please check these coefficients with the manufacturers. The average indicator is automatically indicated in our calculator.
Kerakoll Fugalite Eco - 1.55
Kesto Kiilto - 1.6
Litokol Litochrom - 1.9
Litokol Litochrom Luxury - 1.9
Litokol Starlike - 1.55
Mapei Ultracolor Plus - 1.6
Mapei Kerapoxy Design - 1.6

Cement and epoxy grouts are used in residential premises. For industrial facilities, a special grout based on furan resins is used.

How to lay floor tiles?

It is possible to lay tiles in a high-quality manner only if all stages of the existing proven technology are exactly met. If you follow the step-by-step instructions, the laying process will be quick and easy. Before starting work you need to carry out preparatory activities.

The tile fits well different reasons: on wooden and self-leveling floors, on concrete, as well as on a substrate made of OSB or plywood. But they all require some preparation before facing.

Preparatory work before cladding

Laying floor tiles with your own hands should only be done after preparatory work has been carried out. Furniture, plumbing fixtures, baseboards and all things are removed from the premises. The room should be empty. If necessary, the old covering (tiles, boards, linoleum, laminate, etc.) is dismantled. Before laying a tiled floor, you need to remove debris, dirt and dust.

Preparing the base for finishing

Floor tiles should be glued onto a well-prepared surface, since the final quality of the work and the appearance of the laid coating directly depend on this. The surface of the base must be perfectly flat. Deviations from the horizontal cannot exceed 3 mm per 1 m, otherwise a leveling screed will have to be performed.

The concrete floor is carefully inspected for defects (sagging, bumps, cracks, chips, etc.). The protruding parts are cut off with a grinder or knocked down with a chisel, and all cavities and cracks are filled with cement mortar.

In rooms with increased level humidity (bathroom) before installation it is necessary to apply coating waterproofing bitumen mastic. Then it executes concrete screed. It is done along the beacons with building cement mortar or using a self-leveling mixture (self-leveling floor). The dried screed is primed to improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive to the subfloor.

Wooden floors are prepared a little differently. First, the boards are thickly covered oil paint, then a layer of waterproofing is laid. The final stage of preparation will be pouring cement screed, which is performed after installing the reinforcing mesh. The base for the tiles can be made of moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 12 mm. Sheets of plywood are attached to the floor joists with screws or nails. In this case, the organization of a leveling concrete layer will not be necessary.

After preparing the surface, it is recommended to pre-lay out the floor. To do this, tiles are laid without using mortar. This procedure allows you to detect possible flaws in time (discrepancy in the pattern, lack of tiles, etc.).

Making the markings

It is extremely important to correctly mark the surface so that the coating lies evenly and neatly over the entire area.

The most commonly used methods for laying floor tiles are:

1. Installation ceramic cladding starts from the farthest corner. In this case, you need to gradually move towards the doorway. This option is considered the simplest and fastest, so it is often used by amateurs or beginner inexperienced tilers. The masonry technique is suitable for rooms with a small area or with a complex geometric shape (presence of bevels, protrusions, niches, etc.).
2. More difficult option is laying from the center of the room to the walls. Most often used for covering surfaces in large spaces. Laying rectangular tiles begins from the central point determined when marking the floor. Draw 2 lines coming from the middles of the opposite walls; they divide the area into 4 rectangles. Any of the central angles is taken as the starting point. The tile material laid using this method will have to be trimmed around the entire perimeter. This work carried out with some experience.

There are the following tile laying schemes:

• Seam to seam. The easiest, simplest and most understandable method. The tiles are laid one after another in straight rows. The rows run parallel to the walls of the room. There are identical seams between them. Most often used for large-sized ceramics.
• Diagonally. Rows facing covering laid out at an angle of 45° to the walls, and not parallel. This one is more complex circuit allows you to visually mask the unevenness of the base. The consumption of tiles is higher, because you have to cut a lot of them diagonally. But the room looks more spacious and attractive.
• Take a running start. The coating laid out according to this scheme has the appearance of brickwork when the seam lines at the joints do not coincide. Each subsequent row is shifted by half a fragment.

There are more complicated types of tile laying:

1. herringbone;
2. network;
3. loft;
4. labyrinth;
5. carpet;
6. parquet.

With any type of installation, the coating must look aesthetically pleasing, so it is important to place the tile material so that the tiles are solid in the most visible places. All cut pieces should be hidden in less visible areas of the room or under furniture and plumbing fixtures.

Laying it down

Experienced tilers recommend following the rule: lay the tiles on the floor when the room temperature is about +20°C and the humidity level is not lower than 60%. Otherwise, the drying process may take a long time. First you need to prepare the adhesive composition. The dry mixture is diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package. You can use ready-made glue. You need to decide in advance where to start laying the floor.

All options for laying floor tiles imply the following work technology:

• Glue is applied to the selected location. There is no need to cover too large an area, about 1 m² is enough. It is necessary to ensure that there are no voids left that are not covered with a layer of glue.
• The mixture is applied to the back side of the tile with a trowel and evenly distributed over it with a notched trowel.
• The ceramic product is turned over and gently pressed to the floor in the right place. Use a level to check the horizontal positioning; if necessary, tap the corners of the tiles lightly with a rubber hammer. Excess glue is immediately removed.
• According to the figure, the following elements are laid out. All tiles should be located on the same level, without height differences. This is controlled by a rule, ruler or building level. Sometimes it is advised to use a nylon thread stretched strictly horizontally.

1. The protruding parts are carefully pressed down with a mallet. If the corner has dropped below the general level, then the tile is removed and underneath it right place glue is added.
2. Plastic stops are immediately inserted between adjacent products so that the seams are the same. After 24 hours, the crosses must be removed.

We rub the seams

After complete polymerization and drying of the adhesive composition, the joints are grouted at the joints of the tiles. The mixture is pressed into the space between the tile elements using a rubber spatula, which does not leave scratches. Excess fugue is immediately removed. The gaps near the walls are not filled with grout. After about half an hour, when the grout has dried a little, wipe the tiles with a wet sponge to remove small residues.

When laying tiles on the floor with your own hands, you need to pay attention to the center lines of the window in the room, because sun rays The discrepancy between the tile seams is clearly visible. It looks unaesthetic and is very noticeable. If after placement last tile If there is a gap of 1-2 cm in the row, it is better to trim the first and last product, and move the entire row a little. This eliminates the need to cut too narrow strips.

If the quality of the masonry work is not too high, then it is preferable to grout the seams with grout to match the tile covering, since dark stripes will only highlight the imperfections. Epoxy compounds are not recommended for inexperienced tilers, because such grouts require extremely careful and careful application. It is then quite difficult to remove excess composition from the surface of the tile.

Probably no renovation is complete without tiles. Ceramics have many advantages over others finishing materials in many situations. And when it comes to decorating a bathroom, tiles are the absolute leader. However, laying tiles is not a cheap pleasure, and it is also a terribly interesting activity. These factors provoke many home craftsmen to work with their own hands. If possible, practice should be preceded by theory, so we tried to ensure that the article gives an idea of ​​how to lay tiles on a wall.

We are not considering floor cladding here, but we assure you that if you master laying tiles on a wall, the floor will seem like an easy base. Vertical surfaces involve fighting gravity, the need to manage complex geometry and take into account many more parameters. However, it is not the gods who burn the tiles, and it is not the inhabitants of Olympus who do the finishing of the tiles...

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Surface preparation

Ceramics can be laid using two types of mixtures: tile adhesives and cement-sand mortars. There are other binders, but they are used in special cases and have no relation to everyday construction tasks. Preparation of the base depends on the type of solution. Having given preference to glue (and this is the most popular solution today), the walls are plastered or covered with plasterboard. In any case, the base plane should tend to the ideal.

Gypsum plaster Knauf Goltband Beacon profiles are leveled in a flat plane and fixed to the solution. The plaster is applied to the wall and smoothed using the beacon rule.

Usage cement-sand mortar involves large layers of mixture and a lesser degree of preliminary leveling with your own hands. We will describe how to glue tiles to a flat surface. This method is more modern, but the main thing is that it can be mastered quickly. The “mortar” technique requires much more refined skills, and even many tilers do not fully master it.
Make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. The pipes should be hidden, eliminating the need to be distracted while laying ceramic tiles on the wall. The flatness allows you to use a minimum of glue and speeds up the cladding several times. Prime the leveled base, especially carefully if the walls are plastered.

We are making channels for pipes.
We connect the pipes for the bath and hide them in the wall.

If the base has previously been prepared and painted, you need to remove the paint layer or make frequent cuts. Nothing should peel off or crumble. This is important because negligence will lead to extremely short-lived styling.

Tool

Wall cladding requires special tool. Make sure that before starting work you already have:

• trowel or spatula;
• comb (notched spatula);
• bubble level;
• hydraulic level or laser;
• wire cutters;
• tile cutter;
• rule 1.5 m;
• grinder with diamond wheel;
• tile crosses/wedges;
• foam sponge;
• rubber spatula.

Roulettes and other hammers were not included in the list; it is assumed that every household already has them. When mixing glue, it is difficult to do without a drill with an attachment, so it is advisable to have one. You can knead with your own hands, but correctly - with the help of a tool.

Marking

The basic rule of cladding: visually important places you have to give away the whole tile. The purpose of the cut tiles is to be located where it will be less noticeable or hidden. Calculate the number of slabs before leveling the base. You may have to level with a slightly larger layer if the geometry requires too small a piece of tile in the corner. It’s better to lose a little space than to admire a two-centimeter “stub” for many years. If the corners are visually equal, it may be worth trimming to the edges, and to the same extent. Although there are certain design rules here, in reality the owner’s taste comes into play.

Vertical layout is based on the whole tile at the top rule. But again, there are exceptions, so use common sense. Do not forget to take into account the height of the floor and ceiling, as well as the joints between the slabs. Over a large area, despite their apparent insignificance, the latter play a large role, accumulating up to several centimeters in total.

The marking also depends on the type of ceramic layout. The most common:

• “seam to seam”;
• at a run;
• diagonally;

It's unlikely you'll start with last method, it is the most difficult. The second imitates brickwork This is the easiest way to glue tiles. The most popular type is the first, it requires careful adherence to the vertical and horizontal, any deviation will be noticeable.
A good video about the correct layout:

As a rule, gluing should begin from the second or third row. This is due to the fact that it is correct to cover floor tiles with wall tiles:

• it looks better;
• water flowing from the walls does not flow into the contour seams;
• cutting wall ceramics is much easier;

If you have already laid the floor (although this order is not according to the rules), start laying the tiles on the wall from the very bottom. But this option is unlikely, do not forget about the whole tile under the ceiling. Unless the height of the walls allows you to do without trimming.
Having decided on the beacon row, “punch” the marks of the upper edge of the first row using a water level. The presence of a laser will make the work easier, but the tool is specific, and there is no point in buying it specifically. Plastic tube is much cheaper, and unless you have a large area to tile, forget about the laser. Surely you know about the principle of communicating vessels, so we will not dwell on the operation of the hydraulic level.

Mark the horizon immediately along the perimeter, make sure that there are no problems with possible trimming around the pipes. Sometimes it is necessary to move the marks to avoid a complex cut. Further on the marks you can:

• pull the beacon cord;
• draw a solid line;

The first option is still preferable, as it allows complete control over the horizon and plane. Let's make a reservation that wall cladding with mortar involves only this point. Plumb lines will help you control the vertical, or, more often when finishing tiles with adhesive, the same line, but already along the Y axis.

The use of glue requires a support strip that secures the beacon row. Typically an aluminum profile or wooden slats are used.

To prevent the tiles from sliding down, we attach a 27x28 mm profile according to the marks. In this bathtub, an even layout from the center was chosen to create 2 equal trims along the edges.

Laying tiles

You need to glue it with tile adhesive that suits the task. Kneading with your own hands does not allow you to quickly bring the mixture to the desired consistency, so use a mixer. Apply the composition to the base or tile using a spatula. After application, remove excess glue with a comb, as a result, an even layer of grooves will remain on the surface. Select a notched trowel based on the size of the tile and the plane of the base. The larger the plate and the worse the plane, the larger the teeth on the tool should be.

Align the first tile along the horizontal and vertical marks. If using cord, start from the second row from the corner; After you remove the thread, you need to lay the rest of the tile. Fix with wedges placed between the ceramic and the support bar. Lay out the row, excluding the trim. Leave space between the plates, achieving uniformity using crosses (a popular size is 2 mm).

After a day, the support strip is dismantled and the bottom row of tiles is laid.

Control the plane using the cord or, if you don’t use thread, using a rule. The edges of the tiles must coincide with the beacon string. Check each row with bubble level for verticality. This is how you decorate the walls with your own hands. Trimming can be done immediately, but it is more convenient at the end of the stage. Remember to follow the pattern and remember that ceramics can have a lackluster pattern. On the back of the tiles there are arrows that show the direction of installation; they should always be in the same direction.
Video on how to properly lay tiles on bathroom walls:

Tile cutting

When tiling with your own hands, you can do without expensive cutting tool. If you have a tile cutter - good, if not - use a glass cutter or scriber with Pobedit soldering. Mark the cutting line, fix the slab on a flat surface and run the tool along the line several times. Next, you need to place the tile with cutting marks on a couple of nails and gently press - you have a finished trim. If you use a tile cutter, run the roller once, repetitions lead to defects.

In this way, they cut in a straight line, but tiling the walls also involves a shaped cut. Cut holes for pipes using a grinder with a diamond wheel. If there are few holes and there is no angle grinder, you can use a cheap diamond-coated blade. But this is a labor-intensive and time-consuming task, and is only justified economically.

Grouting joints

After laying the tiles on the wall and floor, the seams are cleaned of glue and rubbed special composition. The grout is applied to a rubber spatula and the gaps between the slabs are filled with the mixture. Depending on the material and skill, 1-4 square meters are processed in one approach. Residues are removed with a foam sponge. It is used to bring the filler to a smooth state, distributing the grout evenly along the seams.

Do-it-yourself wall cladding, which you mastered on basic level, requires an understanding of the nuances. Some of them:

• Before laying the tiles, check their quality, geometry and compliance with the calibration. Sort by size to make it easier to get even seams.
• Prepare the surface carefully, do not skimp on primer and maintain right angles.
• Use on outside corners. Although it is not so beautiful, it is safe.
• The tiles must be glued to a dry surface.

Expenses

Costs for tiling a bathroom with an area of ​​3.5 m²:

• 2 guide profiles 27x28 mm - 90 rub.
• (25 kg x 3 pcs) - 717 rub.
• Strengthening soil Plitonit 1 l. - 98 rub.
• 300 pcs of plastic crosses 2 mm - 60 rub.
• Kiilto grout 3 kg - 320 rub.
• Self-tapping screws, dowels - 20 rub.

In total, installation cost us 1,305 rubles + the cost of tiles and preparatory work (plaster). If you do wall cladding yourself, you will need to spend money on the missing tools. For tiling the walls in a bathroom of this size, a tiler will charge at least 13-15 thousand rubles, including grout. Buy a tool that will remain with you forever and do everything yourself, or pay for the work of a master and calmly sip tea while styling - everyone will decide for themselves.

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There is nothing complicated in such a process as the technology of laying tiles on a wall; there are simply a couple of subtleties that every novice master should know. That's exactly what we'll talk about.

Tiling the bathroom

Surface preparation

Tools for preparatory work:

• Chisel;
• Hammer (for removing tiles);
• Sponge (for removing wallpaper);
• Primer;
• Brush;
• Beam;
• Nozzle – whisk;
• Glue container;
• Glue mixture;
• Level.

In order to begin the main stage of work, you should take care of intermediate, preparatory matters, which are also included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall.

To do this, you must first remove all old finishing, be it wallpaper, panels, .

Regarding the tiles: be sure to remove all trim from the wall! There are tips on the Internet that say that you can beat off the top coating, and then the technology of the wall will not be broken, however this recommendation relevant ONLY for floors.

When installing, be sure to use crosses

What needs to be determined is the magnitude of these particular shortcomings. If they are more than 1 cm, then you should start leveling the walls, since otherwise the adjustment will be due to a greater application of the mixture.

So, if the wall is more or less even, . These actions, in principle, are not mandatory, but are still recommended, since as a result you will improve the adhesion between the mortar and the wall, which will automatically increase the quality of the masonry.

While the primed wall dries, you can attach the beam to the wall, since the technology of laying tiles on the wall is based mainly not on the floor line, which may be uneven, but on the beam, which, of course, is installed at the level of the second tile from the bottom.

Now that the preparatory work included in the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall is completed, we can mix the adhesive mixture.

It is best, of course, to use a special attachment - a mixer, because you still won’t be able to mix the mixture uniformly by hand.

Laying tiles

Installation of tiles on the wall

To lay tiles on walls you need to prepare the following tools:

• Trowel;
• Notched trowel;
• Level;
• Rubber hammer;
• The tile itself;
• Plastic limiters - crosses.

Proper technology for laying ceramic tiles on a wall involves applying the mixture to the wall, and not to the tile.

It is allowed to apply glue to the tiles only if the wall has unevenness, which you can correct with more mixture.

So, apply the mixture to the wall (on a part, about two rows of tiles; of course, you shouldn’t cover the entire surface), level it with a notched trowel and take hold of the tile.

They put it against the wall and pressed. However, try to do this without excessive enthusiasm; don’t put too much pressure.

The correct technology for laying tiles on a wall involves constantly using a level to correct the installation of the tiles themselves. To do this, as soon as you lay the tiles on the wall, take the above tool in your hands and check the resulting surface for horizontalness. If the edge protrudes, you need to gently tap it with a rubber mallet, but if the tile is “recessed,” you need to dismantle it and reinstall it.

So, moving behind the tiles, you lay out 2-3 rows. Now stop and take a breather. It is needed to give the solution time to set, because otherwise the laying of tiles on the wall may simply not withstand the pressure of the upper rows and collapse.

To regulate the thickness of the seams, be sure to use special regulators when laying ceramic tiles, only then will the seams be even and even.

While you are waiting for the setting time of the solution indicated on the packaging according to the technology of laying ceramic tiles on the wall, it makes sense to start trimming the tiles.

Cutting tiles at home

Ceramic tiles can be cut using several tools:

• Manual tile cutter;
• Electric tile cutter;
• Glass cutter;
• Bulgarian;
• Wire cutters.

The best option for you is a manual tile cutter. The electric analogue is in no way worse, even better, but its cost is one level higher.

A glass cutter and nippers are also a good choice, however, unfortunately, not every tile can now be cut with a glass cutter, since the quality of the material is sometimes much better than you expect.

But the grinder is a rather complex tool, and even dangerous, which is why it is not advisable for you to get involved with it if you do not know how to use it.

It is recommended to cut tiles for walls and floors during the process of laying ceramic tiles, since often craftsmen do not take into account that there will definitely be seams during laying, and as a result, the tiles have to be cut, and it will be much more difficult to carefully cut the tiles into small pieces, believe me .

The final stage included in the technology of laying tiles on the wall is grouting the joints.

Grouting tile joints

You will need the following materials:

• Fugue;
• Dilution container;
• Rubber spatula;
• A piece of cable for jointing;
• Water;
• Sponge.

There is nothing complicated in grouting tiles, you just need to remember that you should start this process only at least a day after laying it on the floor, walls or any other surface.

Important! Dilute the mixture in small portions; you should not dilute the entire package at once, the solution sets quickly enough, and it will not be possible to use it half-hardened and with lumps.

The fugue is applied to the seams with a rubber spatula and carefully embroidered with a suitable piece of cable. We have a number of materials that will definitely help you understand this in more detail.

So, in principle, that’s all you need to clearly understand the technology of laying tiles on the wall, and we’re sure you’ve figured out this issue!