High level groundwater can bring a lot of trouble not only to gardening plantings, but, first of all, to the foundations of buildings. As a result, the house may experience uneven shrinkage and, as a result, a violation of the geometry of the walls, roof, windows and doors. In addition, constant moisture in the walls causes the formation of fungus, which can lead to deterioration in the health of those living in the house.

If you know that groundwater in your area is located close to the surface of the earth, then you should take care of a drainage system that will drain excess water outside the area, keeping the foundation of the house, your health and the health of your loved ones, as well as the plants intact. garden.

Making a drainage system yourself is not very difficult; you just need to know the technology for doing the work.

The very concept of “drainage” means the removal of excess water naturally or artificially from the surface of the soil or from the ground. Drainage is used both in construction and in agricultural technology to drain storm or groundwater using a system of canals, drainage wells, wells, laid pipes and other devices.

Drainage must be done if:

• the groundwater level at the site is increased;
• a residential building with a basement is being built;
• the terrain of the site changes;
• on site heavy soils, impeding the natural drainage of storm and melt water.

In the old days, when plastic materials was not produced for drainage system asbestos-cement, ceramic or steel pipes were used. To obtain a complete drainage system, it was necessary to manually drill holes in such pipes. Not only was such work not easy, but over time the holes became clogged with soil, which negated all the efforts spent on constructing a drainage system. Currently on sale large selection various pipes for drainage installation.

To install a drainage pipe, it is better to purchase a corrugated plastic pipe, which has ready-made holes. To prevent the holes in the pipes from becoming clogged with soil or silting, they can be wrapped in low-density geotextile, which costs mere pennies.

What are the benefits of plastic pipes:

• First of all, plastic differs from all other materials in durability. The service life of such materials is estimated at 50 years or more.
• Plastic pipes, regardless of the material (polyvinyl chloride, polyethylene and others), can be easily processed with available tools that are found in every home.
• When installing a drainage system, plastic pipes can be laid to any depth.
• Pipe assembly is easy thanks to their design features and the availability of a variety of connecting elements for sale.
• And finally, plastic pipes are several times cheaper than metal or ceramic ones.

Drainage system design

Laying drainage pipes begins with drawing up a site plan and project, which should indicate:

• pipe locations;
• length and depth of trenches;
• installation of drainage or inspection wells;
• method of draining water into storm sewer or other container for collecting water.

The project must indicate the level of groundwater, the level of soil freezing, and the type of soil on the site. It is unlikely that anyone is able to complete such a project on their own, so in order for the drainage system to work flawlessly, you need to contact specialists who will competently make all the calculations. And themselves technical work The owner of the house is quite capable.

Before laying plastic drainage pipes, you should prepare a trench according to the design dimensions. The trench is dug wider than the diameter of the pipe by 40-50 cm, if the depth of soil freezing is small and the worker can fit in such a trench.

With a large depth of soil freezing, it is more convenient to dig when the width of the trench allows you to turn around with a shovel. There are no exact instructions here; everyone digs a trench in the way that is most convenient for him. The main thing is that the slope from the house to the drainage wells or other water collection point is maintained.

The technology for laying drainage pipes involves laying several drainage layers of sand and crushed stone at the bottom of the trench. But first, geotextiles are lined on the bottom and walls of the trench, only after that a backfill is made of sand, then crushed stone. And already on the crushed stone layer a perforated plastic pipe, which is backfilled in the reverse order - crushed stone, sand, geotextiles and previously selected soil. The use of geotextiles protects pipe openings from silting.

The slope when laying drainage pipes should be maintained within 3 degrees throughout the entire length of one branch of the drainage system.

In some cases, the drainage system is arranged according to the “herringbone” system - this is when more branches of perforated pipes are connected to the main drainage pipe, similar to branches extending from a tree trunk.

In addition to laying drainage pipes, it is necessary to install inspection wells, which allow, if necessary, to clear blockages and monitor the water level in the drainage system.

Inspection wells should be located no further than 50 meters apart, and at bends in the drainage system or sudden changes in the slope of pipes, they must be installed without fail.

All collected water, whether from the ground or rain, must be drained either into a storm sewer or into a special reservoir, from where it can be used for irrigation or other technical needs on the farm.

If the drainage of water during the installation of drainage pipes is intended to be in an open reservoir (river, lake, pond) or in a storm drain, then check valves must be installed at the ends of the drainage pipes.

Reasons for improper operation of the drainage system

When installing the drainage system, the technology or sequence of work may have been violated. For example, crushed stone was first poured, and then sand was poured into the bottom of the trench, and as a result, the holes in the pipe could become clogged.

Or maybe the drainage filling was not done at all. Or the slope was broken when laying the pipes, as a result of which water cannot flow by gravity into the drainage well or into the storm sewer.

When draining water into an open reservoir, check valves were not installed or for some other reason.

Therefore, in order to know how to properly lay a drainage pipe, you need to inquire about the technology for performing such work. There are plenty of examples on the Internet - both articles and videos.

Even if you did everything correctly and your drainage system works flawlessly, you need to remember that any device needs periodic inspection and maintenance, which consists of measuring the water level in inspection wells and cleaning the drainage system of accumulated debris and dirt. Inspections are recommended to be carried out 4 times a year, i.e. every season.

A drainage system is needed to drain water and sediment from the site. Drainage works thanks to a branched pipeline through which the liquid is directed to the ground or discharge site. It is important to know how to install the system correctly and which pipe to choose for installation.

Drainage pipes have their own characteristics. Choose special products with many holes. Thanks to them, water enters the drains and is absorbed into the ground.

Drainage pipe materials:

• Asbestos-cement;
• Ceramic;
• Plastic.

Plastic pipes are most often used. A number of reasons contribute to this choice. So the polymer is lightweight, since it is lighter than asbestos cement and ceramics. It's easier to do this way installation work. In addition, this material is quite durable and inexpensive.

Asbestos cement and ceramics are now used less and less. These are heavy and difficult to install products. Metal for drainage is not used through active corrosive processes in the ground.

The popularity of plastic is determined by other advantages. So the polymer relates to durable materials. It is resistant to corrosion and other aggressive processes. You will also be pleased with the permeability of the pipes; they are absolutely smooth and practically do not clog.

Silt also cannot clog plastic pipes. If the drains are wrapped with geotextile, then small debris will not clog the holes. Groundwater easily penetrates into the drainage system. At the same time, there is a large selection of pipes of different sizes on the market. This allows you to fully equip the drainage system.

Plastic is easy to clean. Operation involves periodic inspection of pipes. The system may need to be cleaned once a year.

Requirements for the installation of a drainage pipe

Drainage is widely used in areas with high level groundwater. Drains are installed below the groundwater level. The material of the product itself must be durable, stable and smooth. The liquid must pass easily through the pipes under high pressure.

The strength of the pipes must be such as to withstand the weight of the soil and its possible displacement.

To reduce the possibility of the influence of precipitation, the system is equipped with storm water inlets. In this case, the drains have a surface installation. Next, the system is connected to a common liquid drainage channel.

Requirements for drainage pipes:

• Low temperature resistance;
• Maximum smoothness of the inner walls.

The rainwater inlet should not be deformed when exposed to low temperatures. If necessary, use insulation of the system. Good permeability of the pipes is necessary so that possible debris can easily pass through the drains. In this case, the system must be equipped with filter elements.

Required drainage pipe slope

The slope of the pipes is affected by their size. The diameter should not be too large, otherwise there will be a large outflow of water. And this in turn will lead to mud drifts. This will quickly clog the pipeline and require emergency cleaning.

The diameter is related to the slope of the pipes. How smaller size, the greater the slope.

But if you choose a slight slope, the water in the canal will begin to stagnate. Water will not flow well and will overflow the pipes. Slope is indicated by fractional numbers. The number 0.008 indicates an 8 mm difference per 1 m.

Required slopes for pipes:

• 0.003 is used for water drainage ditches and asphalt roads;
• 0.004 – when covering with crushed stone or laying paving stones;
• 0.005 – when the road is covered with cobblestones.

When the pipe diameter is 90 and 110 mm, then optimal slope 0.02. With a diameter of 160 mm, an indicator of 0.008 is used. If the cross-section is 200 mm, then the slope is 0.007.

Elements for connecting drainage pipes to each other

Drainage pipes are connected using special fittings. The drainage device can be represented by two systems: open and closed. The first option provides a complex of ditches and trenches for water drainage. The second system has underground pipe laying, where the elements are connected to each other by fittings.

Types of fittings for drainage pipes:

• Universal;
• Plugs;
• Universal tee;
• Swivel tee;
• Transition coupling;
• Crosspiece;
• Transition tee.

The connection of pipes is possible due to the protruding part at the ends of the pipes. Sewerage installation is carried out using plastic fittings. These elements are well sealed and allow liquid to pass through perfectly.

The crosspiece can connect 4 pipes at once. The coupling combines 2 pipes like same size, and different.

Fittings have many advantages of use. They note lightness, flexibility, tightness. The couplings weigh little, so they do not burden the system. At the same time, the variety of connecting elements allows you to make different wiring. Working with fittings is simple; all processes can be easily done with your own hands. In this case, the pipes can be laid on an uneven surface.

A tee is used to connect several drainage branches. This can also be used to connect a pipe to a well. You can create a complete system based on large plot. The adapter tee is used for pipes different sizes. The rotating option will allow you to install a drainage system called “herringbone”.

Surface laying of drainage pipes

The work includes creating a plan with pipe routing. The placement of drains and other water drainage elements is taken into account. In this case, the slope of the pipes is taken into account. Surface pipe laying involves installing drains on finished surfaces.

Stages of laying surface drainage:

1. Determine the location of liquid discharge. This information is taken into account during planning. The laying depth is determined below the ground freezing level. As a rule, this figure is 60-80 cm.
2. Sand traps should be connected to the pipes. This is a kind of liquid filtration.
3. When arranging wall drainage, storm water inlets are installed. Rainwater immediately goes into the ground.
4. Next they dig a ditch. The bottom should be compacted and crushed stone laid.
5. Then the drainage details are installed. Provide holes for the pipeline. End elements must be equipped with plugs. The pipes are secured using concrete-sand mortar. Installation begins from the reset point. The joints should be well sealed.
6. Next, the heel is made of concrete and the lining is restored.
7. Then they check the functionality of the drainage system. When everything looks and functions well, the system is covered with bars.

Operation includes periodic cleaning of sand traps and storm water inlets. At the same time, remove the grates and wash the holes with water pressure. The sediment can be used for economic purposes. It is prohibited to use groundwater for personal needs, it has a different composition.

Laying perforated drainage pipes with geotextiles

Before laying, carry out calculation work and purchase required material. Design includes data collection. The local land resources office will be able to provide them.

Required data for design:

• Groundwater level for each season;
• Soil properties and structure;
• Amount of precipitation.

These calculations will allow you to determine the depth of the pipes. The material used for laying is perforated plastic pipe. To prevent clogging of drains, they are wrapped with geotextiles.

Installation of drainage with perforated pipes and geotextiles:

1. First, they mark out the territory, focusing on the wiring diagram. Then they dig a trench. The depth is determined during design, and the width is equal to the pipe plus 40 cm. The slope of the pipes is also taken into account.
2. A cushion of crushed stone and sand is placed at the bottom. 10 cm of sand is enough, which will have to be compacted. Then add 20 cm of crushed stone.
3. Next, pipes wrapped in fabric are installed. The elements are connected with special couplings.
4. You should also make sure that the pipes are sloped correctly using a tensioned cord.
5. Inspection wells are installed at turns. They allow you to monitor and clean the system.
6. Then you will need to dig trenches. First, crushed stone is poured, then sand, and then the previously dug up earth.

Water is discharged into an open reservoir or sewer. But the end of the pipeline must be equipped check valve. An alternative to it is a prefabricated well. When it is full, the liquid should be removed.

Some difficulties may arise during installation. They are associated with common mistakes: insufficient depth, incorrectly selected pipes, broken slope.

It is quite possible to do the installation yourself. It is better to entrust the design to professionals. In other work, you should follow the instructions and correct calculations.

Installation of drainage pipes (video)

The principle of drainage is to install pipes at a slope, due to which water is drained from the site. It is important to correctly determine the size of the pipes. The installation process itself has many nuances and features, but overall there are no difficulties.

Building a house is a responsible and very expensive undertaking. Naturally, any owner wants the constructed building to last as long as possible. And for this it is necessary to protect the foundation of the house from destructive action soil water, that is, build drainage. Let's look at how to lay drainage pipes with your own hands, what materials are used for this, and what nuances need to be taken into account when performing this work.

The construction of drainage seems to many to be an optional event. In fact, protection from soil water is very important. Properly constructed drainage helps avoid dampness in the basement and prevents the destruction of the materials from which the foundation of the house is built.

In addition, a drainage device may be necessary for personal plot or in the country, if high waters interfere with the growth of trees and shrubs. Let's consider the main points of constructing drainage systems.

Before describing the construction technology, it is worth understanding what drainage is and in what cases its construction is necessary. So, drainage is a system of pipes that is used to drain soil water from the foundation of a building, as well as to drain the site. In what cases is it necessary to build drainage?

• If a building is being built that will have a basement.
• If the site is initially swampy, or the soil is heavy and poorly permeable to water.
• If you plan to make changes to the natural topography of the site - level the sites, build artificial hills, etc.

Where to start?

First of all, it is necessary to find out how deep the soil waters lie. This can be done by studying the water level in nearby wells. The well, which is dug to a depth of 5-15 meters, is filled just to the groundwater level. In addition, following the tracks on concrete walls well you can understand how high the water rises during the flood period.

Advice! The ideal solution for determining the level of soil water is to conduct a geodetic examination by a specialist.

Next you need to decide on the type of drainage. The easiest way, of course, is to build an open drainage, that is, simply dig trenches with a slope. However, such a solution will not decorate the site, so most owners choose a more labor-intensive construction option.

We select materials for construction

Today there are more convenient and available materials– corrugated pipes from polymer materials, which already have ready-made perforation.

The main advantages of using plastic pipes

• Corrugated pipes are different increased strength, they can be laid to a considerable depth - up to 10 meters.
• The service life of polymer pipes is at least 50 years.
• Connecting plastic pipes is easy to do yourself using couplings
• The pipes are easy to transport, unload and install, as they are quite lightweight.
• To cut plastic pipes, you do not need to use a special tool.

Advice! To prevent pipes from becoming clogged with soil particles, additional filters– geotexil or coconut fiber material.

Installation of drainage systems

Let's look at how drainage is installed and what are the nuances of pipe laying.

Planning

At the first stage, a scheme for laying drainage pipes should be drawn up. A preliminary geodetic examination of the site will be very helpful in carrying out this work, as a result of which the types of soil and the level of groundwater will be determined. Based on the results of the examination, the diameters of the pipes are selected, as well as the depth of their installation.

Advice! It is advisable to entrust drawing up a drainage diagram and performing calculations to specialists.

Pipe laying

• A layer of sand 15 cm high is poured into trenches dug to the required depth.
• Geotextiles are laid over the sand so that the edges of the fabric cover the sides of the ditch.
• A layer of fine crushed stone is poured onto the geotextile.
• Pipes are laid on top of the crushed stone with the perforation down.
• When laying pipes, it is necessary to maintain a slope directed towards the collection well. The slope is at least 3 degrees
• To be able to monitor the operation of the system and, if necessary, flush it, you need to plan the installation of inspection wells. The minimum distance between wells is 50 meters. In addition, wells must be placed at places where the pipeline turns or when its angle of inclination changes.
• The choice of filter for the pipe depends on the type of soil. If it is light sandy loam or loam, then it is worth using pipes wrapped in geotextiles. In heavy soils, it is more profitable to use pipes wrapped in coconut fiber cloth.
• Crushed stone is poured over the laid pipes; as a rule, the thickness of the top filling is 40 cm.
• The top layer of crushed stone is covered with geotextile, which was previously secured to the sides of the trench.
• The trenches are covered with soil from above and covered with pre-cut turf.

Mistakes you shouldn't make

• Incorrect selection of pipes. For example, pipes without a filter cannot be used in loamy soils.
• Unmaintained pipe slope.
• Incorrect choice of location for installing a prefabricated well or untimely removal water from it.

So, the drainage system is necessary element to protect the house and site from excess soil moisture. When installing drainage, it is extremely important to correctly develop its design and carry out installation in strict accordance with the technology. Errors made during installation will lead to the fact that water from the foundation will not be drained in full, that is, the efficiency of the system will be reduced.

And now a briefer but more succinct guide to the proper installation of drainage pipes:

Drainage pipes are laid in trenches 0.7-1.6 m deep, expanding upward at an angle of 10-20°; the width of their bottom is 30-40 cm. If it is known that water will flow to the drainage pipe only from above and from the sides, a pipe wrapped in geotextile can be placed directly at the bottom of the trench. Although to level the surface and create the desired slope, they often do sand cushion. If the drainage pipe will collect water from all sides, a return filter consisting of a layer of sand (5-10 cm) and a layer of crushed stone (5 cm) must be poured under it. Sometimes the return filter is constructed only from sand. Its task is to trap small dusty and clay particles that can clog the drainage pipe. Less water flows from the bottom than from the sides and top, so the return filter should not be too thick. A drainage pipe is laid on it (or immediately on the bottom, as in the first case), surrounded by a volumetric filter - some kind of protective filtering material: geotextile of a certain density or coconut fiber.

Filters for drainage pipes are selected depending on the type of soil. In “difficult” conditions, when pipes are laid in clay soils, a coconut fiber filter works best. Several foreign companies, for example Wavin, Uponor, supply pipes already wrapped in coconut filter material. Their cost is approximately two to three times higher than the cost of similar drainage pipes without filters. For light loams and sandy loams (lighter soils with a lower content of clay particles), bulk geotextiles are used. This is a fairly thick (2-4 mm) non-woven or needle-punched material weighing 250-450 g/m2. Its filtering capacity is lower than that of coconut fiber. On sandy soils you can use thin filters, fiberglass and others similar materials weighing 150-250 g/m2.

The drainage pipe wrapped in a filter is covered with crushed stone to approximately 1/3-1/4 of the depth of the trench. Now, for backfilling, they take crushed stone of a medium fraction (about 20-40 mm), while theoretically it would be more correct to do this: the first layer is crushed stone of a large fraction (40-70 mm), the second layer is of a medium fraction, the third is of a fine fraction (less than 20 mm). Typically, the thickness of the top backfill is about 40 cm. The minimum layer capable of ensuring optimal water penetration into the drainage pipe is 20 cm. A layer of geotextile is laid on top of the crushed stone to prevent mixing of crushed stone and those located above bulk materials- sand (layer 5-10 cm thick) and fertile soil(15-20 cm). To make the system work more reliably, the volumetric crushed stone filter is sometimes also placed in a protective casing made of geofabric, the cost of which is about 30 rubles. for 1 m2. Such costs are often justified when compared with the cost of maintaining the system. Sometimes the pipe itself is not wrapped in geofabric in this case, but such a system will become clogged faster and the likelihood of silt plugs forming in it is higher.

The depth of the trenches and, accordingly, the location of the drainage pipes depends on the type of soil, the groundwater level and what will grow in the drained area. For mineral soils optimal depth trenches - from 60-80 to 120-150 cm. Please note that the groundwater level of 60-80 cm is quite acceptable for lawns and flower beds, about 90 cm - for forest trees, 120-150 cm - for fruit trees. When drained, groundwater will be established at a level of approximately 0.7-0.9 of the depth of the drainage pipes. By the way, according to experts, for the free development of an apple tree this depth should be 2-2.5 m, cherries and plums - 1.5-2 m, berry bushes (currants, gooseberries, raspberries) - 1-1.5 m. peat soils all trenches should be a little deeper - 100-160 cm, since the peat continuously “sits” throughout its “life”. This is due to three reasons: the surface above the drainage pipe settles; a layer settles under the drainage pipe; peat decomposes into substances that become water-soluble and are washed away.

The depth of the drainage pipes is determined taking into account one more factor - the location of the aquifer. This is the name given to the layer of waterproof rocks that bound the aquifer. If the aquiclude is located close to the surface of the earth (for example, at a depth of 70 cm), then the pipe is laid to a depth of no more than this distance. Water will arrive to it only from the side and from above. The drainage pipe, which lies inside the aquifer, receives water from all sides - of course, if there are perforations around the entire circumference of the pipe. An example of waterproof horizons is heavy loamy and clayey soils with a low filtration coefficient: water passes through them very poorly or not at all. An example of aquifers is sandy and sandy loam.

The minimum slope of drainage pipes required for normal water flow is 0.003, that is, 3 mm per 1 m of length. In practice, it is increased to 0.005. If the natural slope of the soil is significant, then it can reach 0.01-0.02. However, it is not recommended to make a large slope - the water should drain smoothly and evenly. Drainage should always be carried out taking into account the relief, so as not to argue with nature.

The spacing of drainage pipes depends on the type of soil. On heavy soils, clayey and loamy, pipes are placed more often: at a distance of 4-5 to 12-15 m from each other. On light soils, sandy loam and sand, less often, every 20-30 m. On average, it is believed that a drainage pipe 1 m long drains an area of ​​10-20 m2. To drain sports and children's playgrounds, the gap between the pipes is halved. Trees should not be planted closer than 2 m to the right and left of the drainage pipe. It is recommended to plant bushes (for example, lilac) maintaining a distance of 1 m.

Good afternoon
Actually, it’s too early to compile a report, because there was only 1 autumn, spring and 2 summers.
But nevertheless:
At the moment, my family and I are 90% satisfied with the work of the drainage (I think that the neighbors are also happy, since our lowest area has become drier and the neighbors’ overflow water drains away even faster).
Let me clarify once again that the task was to install “garden” drainage at depths from 40 to 90 cm for almost 60 meters with a decrease of almost 1 cm per linear meter drainage pipe (it was very successful to rent a theodolite at the market and accurately measure the depths of all drainage branches). Our plot of 20x60 m is so inconveniently located. If it had been possible to install a drainage well in the middle of the plot, then the slope could have been made a little more, and most importantly, we could have started laying the drainage pipe from a depth of about 50 cm. There was no task of draining the foundation and diverting the water supply. The groundwater level is approximately 1-1.5 meters. Therefore, our drainage did not drop below 90 cm, so as not to affect the groundwater level and not waste money on electricity constantly pumping water from the drainage well into the forest at a distance of 70 meters from the site.

Today, the idea of ​​such drainage works 100%. But you need to be more careful at the execution stage. We were unlucky and they deceived us with sand, first, instead of washed river sand, they persuaded us to take quarry sand, demonstrating the machine with a sample of sand, and when it came time to purchase sand, they brought it with a high clay content (at the time of loading my machine, an unsuccessful layer of sand was being mined at the quarry with clay). And we discovered the presence of clay when a third of the 20 cubes had already been filled up and we went to meet pieces of clay + it started to rain and streams of clay flowed from the pile of sand.

But even in our version (albeit throughput sand and clay have decreased, and probably the geotextiles of the pipe have become clogged with clay from the sand) the situation with water drainage has improved greatly. After spring and heavy rains, water leaves the surface of the earth very quickly. Even various neighbors made comments that our area had become drier.

True, in the spring, the drainage does not work until the ground thaws and the sand begins to let water into it, i.e., until the water gets significantly warmer, it remains on the surface of the soil, but as soon as the ice in the sand has melted, the melt water drains off very quickly and the soil of the entire area dries out faster (let's look at next years, this year the snow melted very early, although the frosts persisted for a long time).

But this summer the drainage was tested by rainfall. This summer there were terrible downpours - we don’t remember anything like this for a long time. Our lowest area in the area was covered with water and was almost like a lake. On the paths, the water level in some places was 10 centimeters high. When I arrived at the site, I decided that the pump had broken down, because the drainage well was filled to capacity with water and the water was about to flood the pump outlet. However, after listening, I realized that the pump was working, it simply could not cope with the amount of incoming water.

Due to the danger of a short circuit in the socket for the pump, it was necessary to temporarily plug it into an extension cord, which is located in a place inaccessible to water. The pump is not particularly powerful, only 450 watts and 7 cubic meters per hour. But in less than 12 hours after the rain, the water disappeared from the surface of the site and after 2-3 days the consequences of the flood were not noticeable (the ground dried up and you could easily walk on it everywhere, and in earlier times the water could stand in places for about 1 week and the ground there was a furnace everywhere and there were footprints in the ground).

Of course, such drainage is not storm drainage. Sand is not able to drain fast-moving water, but as garden drainage - we (for now) consider it ideal solution(it’s a pity that we were so unlucky with sand). The only negative is that our pine tree growing next to the drainage well began to hurt and dry out, it turned out that it was now in the driest part of the site and it simply does not yet have roots at the depth where the water now stands. But all the other trees where the drainage branches pass (no closer than 2 meters to the trees, where closer - the drainage pipe is replaced with sections of solid sewer pipe) they feel great, there is no noticeable pain after the long standing water in the spring, I think the temperature of the earth should have increased and the roots of the plants are now waking up faster and the growing season begins a little earlier.

Once again, I recommend buying exclusively coarse river sand or so-called screenings - sand mixed with very good sand. fine gravel. Do not trust sand sellers and do not agree to quarry sand. Dig holes at least 40 cm wide, preferably 50 cm or more, so that the sand acts as a filter against clay and prevents it from reaching the geotextile of the pipe.

Often groundwater and storm water have a destructive effect on the foundation of a building. There have been cases where moisture in large quantities accumulated in upper parts soil, which led to flooding of the basement or ground floor, dampness and deformation of the walls, and the appearance of fungus on them. An effective way protecting the foundation from such unpleasant consequences - laying a drainage pipe.

Reasons for installing a drainage system

If the pipes are placed along the perimeter of the land plot, then a reliable drainage system can be built. It is known that ground and flood waters, as well as precipitation that falls in quantities exceeding the monthly norm, pose a serious danger to the foundation of private housing.

Most often, the laying of drainage pipes is carried out before the construction of the house begins. But it happens that after finishing construction work There are serious reasons for waterproofing the foundation. Then when special conditions You can start preparing the drainage.

Let's consider the situation when pipes are installed at the beginning of construction, but for specific reasons:

• high groundwater level - less than one and a half meters to the ground surface;
• gentle slope of the area, promoting regular accumulation of moisture;
• the presence of clay and loamy soil with low drainage characteristics;
• The building is located in an area where, according to statistics, the level of monthly precipitation is exceeded.

The depth of construction of other structures on the site also plays an important role. local area. If there is a buried foundation next to the main building, then groundwater will not be able to drain freely and will constantly accumulate under the house, increasing the risk of flooding. As a barrier to natural circulation waste water there is asphalt and concrete blind areas on the site. In this case, it would be correct to connect stormwater waste to the central system.

Installing a drainage pipe eliminates the damage caused to the foundation from the accumulation of moisture in the ground around the home and changes in the level of wastewater.

Varieties of drainage schemes

The following options for their preparation are known:

• open (superficial);
• closed (deep).

The first type - open - is necessary for draining excess liquid that has accumulated in the ground from precipitation. This drainage system is represented by trenches and ditches.

The second is designed to remove groundwater and protect the foundation of the building from destruction. For this purpose, a drainage pipe is laid in a ditch of a specific depth. Moreover, the tubular product must be perforated.

Arrangement of a closed system

Before you begin this labor-intensive procedure, you need to prepare and purchase bulk building materials:

• Crushed stone of medium/large fraction, which is needed to obtain a stable layer that prevents dirt and bulky soil fragments from entering the system. This material also protects the corrugated pipe from high blood pressure layer of earth.
• River sand creating a filtration cushion.

In addition to bulk substances, the following will be useful:

• Drainage pipes that form the drainage system itself. Depending on the intricacy of the project, the diameter and number of pipe products are selected. Recently, PVC products have become relevant.
• Drainage pumps providing mechanical drainage. They are used when the site has suffered serious damage due to flooding by underground runoff. Read also: "".
• Durable geotextile that protects the pipe from the ground and has filtering properties. When laying drainage pipes with geotextiles, its varieties are used: dornite and non-woven fabric.
• Couplings, fastening pipes.

In order to regularly clean the drainage system, inspection wells are installed around the perimeter, and collector wells are installed to collect liquid.

How to choose drainage pipes

Before installing a drainage pipe, you need to decide on the products for the job.

It is important to consider the following nuances:

1. Use perforated pipes to prepare the drainage system.
2. Correctly determine required quantity holes and their diameter for liquid outlet and air exchange. Pipe material has priority in the overall matter of arranging a drainage system. Read also: "".

Today, the market for construction materials is replete with pipe products made from:

• ceramics;
• asbestos cement;
• polymers.

In the construction of drainage systems, drainage pipes made of polymers have reached the peak of popularity.

Their advantageous use in comparison with other types lies in the presence of excellent technical characteristics:

• excellent strength;
• duration of use - up to 70 years;
• resistance to siltation;
• ease and, accordingly, simplification of the installation and transportation process;
• resistance to aggression of the chemical environment and corrosion processes;
• self-cleaning capabilities due to the smoothness of the pipe surface;
• in a favorable combination: quality-price;
• ease of maintenance, because thanks to the geotextile filter included in the pipe set, the drainage system does not need to be flushed.

According to their dimensions, drainage pipes are classified into small and large:

• up to 150 mm− for a system with low throughput;
• up to 300 mm− with increased load.

If the drainage scheme has a branched form, then it is better to use small pipe products (for branches) and large diameter(for the central branch of the system).

Plastic drainage pipes

All polymer products that are used for the installation of drainage systems are made of polypropylene, polyvinyl chloride or polyethylene.

In addition, they are:

• One-/two-layer, the number of layers is introduced in proportion to the soil density.
• Flexible/rigid. The former have found application in complex branched circuits across the site, the latter in simple projects drainage.
• With/without filter casing. Most often, drainage pipes have a number of holes along their entire length. If they are not there, then using a drill and a thin drill, you can make holes yourself.
• Corrugated/smooth. On the market building materials You can purchase pipes with a filter coating on the surface - geofabric. If it is missing, then wrapping textiles around the perimeter of the pipe can be done independently, using the material at hand to secure it - thin wire or rope. Read also: "".

Pipe laying project

Work on the installation of a drainage system begins with the preliminary drawing up of a plan for its placement in a specific area. In this case, the type of soil and the height of groundwater must be taken into account. Most often, a branched scheme is used with the installation of inspection wells at the joints.

According to the type of soil, the distance between the branches is selected. So, for clay soil it will be 10 m, loamy soil – 20 m, sandy soil – 45 m.

Self-installation

Laying drainage pipes with your own hands begins with specifying the installation location.

Placement can be done in two options:

1. “Wall” drainage system, which is installed around the perimeter of the foundation private building and protects it from moisture getting inside.
2. Drainage along the perimeter of the entire local area, allowing to protect the basement of the building, all utility structures, and green spaces.

Sequence of installation work:

1. Mark the area where they will be located drainage ditches. With the help of a laser rangefinder, starting actions can be significantly simplified. In this case, it is necessary to pay attention to the accumulated excess water after rain, which clearly demonstrates the difficulties of water exchange due to the increased density of the soil or existing obstacles. Read also: "".
2. Prepare a drainage trench taking into account size differences. A recess will be needed for quick and unhindered outflow of water. During the work, you can use a water hose. Having collected a little water into the trench, you can see how easily the liquid leaves the recess along the entire length of the trench.
3. Before installing a drainage pipe with your own hands, you need to carefully compact the bottom of the trench. Then lay the filter material, the ends of which must extend beyond the boundaries of the ditch. It's pouring down from above river sand and crushed stone of various fractions, but in a certain sequence: large, and then medium. The thickness of the crushed stone should not exceed 20 cm.
4. Using a pipe cutter or jigsaw, cut the drainage according to the parameters of the diagram. Lay the pipe products and connect the joints with fittings. To ensure a secure connection, preheat the joining sections.
5. Then wrap the pipes with geotextiles and secure the joints tightly with thin wire or rope. You need to understand in advance how to lay a drainage pipe in geotextiles, since this is one of the critical moments of installation work. Excellent throughput of this material allows you to adsorb liquid coming out of the perforation. The geofabric also protects the perforations of the pipe from contamination.
6. The drainage must be laid at an angle, connecting the ends of the pipe and the inspection wells. The latter can be used in two types: sealed, when in the future the water will be used for technical needs, and absorbent - the collected liquid will return back to the ground. The slope of drainage products is directly related to their diameter, and the larger the size, the less slope is needed.
7. The installation work must be completed by filling with crushed stone and sand. Next, wrap the structure with the filter material lying on top and cover it with a layer of earth. Here are the main stages of the procedure - how to lay a drainage pipe with your own hands.

Operation of the drainage system

When arranging a drainage system, you need to think through everything down to the smallest detail, install it efficiently, and follow the basic rules of operation. Thus, the life of the drainage system will be significantly extended.

As a preventative measure, a mandatory examination will be required. technical condition drainage and wells - approximately once every 4 years. The liquid level in inspection wells should be measured every 2 years.

Even a slight deviation of this parameter from the norm indicates:

• violation of the integrity of the tubular product;
• dense blockage;
• sludge deposits on the surface of products;
• partial deformation of the pipeline due to ground movement.

Such problems can be prevented if you promptly inspect the drainage system and clean it of various debris.

Possible errors when installing drainage

The quality of installation and the efficiency of the drainage system are interconnected. Any defects during operation can damage the system, which will lead to repair of the site or complete reinstallation of the drainage system. Therefore, let's add current topic: installation of a drainage pipe: how to lay it correctly.

The most common installation errors:

• the pipeline system was selected without taking into account soil conditions;
• the angle of inclination is changed or missing;
• at the initial stages there were no plans to drain water from wells;
• no geotextile or filter material;
• the pipes were soldered in bad faith;
• the technical process for arranging the system was not followed - installation was carried out without filling sand/crushed stone;
• there is no perforation.

Knowing how to properly lay a drainage pipe, taking into account the location of the site and the condition of the soil; By preparing a laying plan and following the installation instructions step by step, you can achieve quality system drainage This means that the ground floor and basement of your building will be reliably protected from negative impact waste water