Choosing a roof covering for a bathhouse is both a simple and complex question. Even large number The roofing options offered by manufacturers cannot satisfy everyone without exception; each bathhouse owner tries to find his own solution. And our goal is not to give advice on choosing a specific type of roofing, everyone should listen to their own opinion - no perfect roof, like no and very bad, each has strong and weaknesses, very large fluctuations in price and installation complexity.

The most prestigious and complex are considered to be individual tile coverings; they can be natural ceramic, concrete, with the addition of polymers, dyes, etc. Metal and flexible tiles are considered a cheaper option, although among these types of coverings the price difference by brand may vary at times. It all depends on the material, manufacturing technology and final performance characteristics. Options for covering with metal and flexible tiles are found most often in bathhouse coverings, and we will focus on them for now.

To begin with, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little brief characteristics coverings.

Advantages

Low cost, quick installation, wide selection of colors and geometric shapes. Durability can also be mentioned, but this indicator depends not only on the brand, but also on the manufacturer. If the tiles are manufactured with gross deviations from generally accepted standards and with violations of technology, then after 6–7 years the coating will have to be repaired or replaced. Conscientious licensed manufacturers provide a guarantee of 25 years or more for elite brands of products.

Flaws

Makes noise during heavy rain or hail. The disadvantage is not critical; no one is going to sleep lightly in a bathhouse. And if there is an attic on the second floor, then the mineral wool used to insulate the roof perfectly dampens sound vibrations. Conclusion - metal tiles are an excellent roofing covering for baths.

Metal tiles must be transported only in a horizontal position; the length of the body must be greater than the length of the material. Unload the roof carefully, carry the sheets only in a vertical position, do not allow sharp bends.

We will describe the most complex method of installing metal tiles - with warm roof. Depending on specific use attic spaces you can simplify the installation process and skip some operations.

Step-by-step installation instructions

Step 1. Check the correct construction and dimensions of the rafter system. Most baths have the simplest gable roof types; checking their dimensions does not take much time.

How to do this? First you need to check the diagonals of the rafter system; the difference in values ​​should not exceed two centimeters; such a spread can be easily hidden by additional elements. Next, pull a rope between the outer rafters, they should all lie in the same plane. Places with deviations should be noted; corrections of deflections are done while nailing the sheathing.

Step 2. If possible, process everything wooden elements rafter system with antiseptic agents of complex action. They will reliably protect the tree from damage by rot and pests and increase its performance. fire safety. For a bathhouse this is an important factor.

Step 3. Laying waterproofing.

It will protect the insulating layer from moisture vapor condensation. Condensation always forms on the underside of metal tiles; droplets of water can fall on mineral wool, which significantly reduces its heat-protective properties. In addition, prolonged contact of wet cotton wool with wooden structures can cause premature damage. The insulation itself will be laid on the roof from the attic side and additionally protected by a vapor barrier layer.

Waterproofing is sold in rolls; during installation you need to follow the markings; there are lines on the front surface. Simple bathhouse roofs do not have valleys, but they may have a chimney outlet. Start doing waterproofing right around the chimneys, stretch the material along the entire perimeter and secure with a stapler. Make sure that all overlaps are directed in the direction of condensate drainage; it is advisable to glue the membrane joints with special tape or ordinary tape.

The chimney has been processed - proceed to waterproofing the slopes. Place the rolls from bottom to top and secure them to the rafters with a stapler. Do not allow the material to sag significantly; it should under no circumstances touch mineral wool. The membrane can be additionally fixed to the rafters with 50x50 mm counter-lattice slats.

This device increases efficiency natural ventilation between the roofing and the sheathing. Some builders skip this operation; they believe that the gaps between the sheathing and the covering sheets are sufficient for ventilation. Both methods have a right to life, but we would not recommend saving too much when arranging roofing coverings.

Step 4.

Nail along the eaves wind boards, wrap the waterproofing over the boards.

For lathing, you can use boards 30 mm thick and 100 mm wide or slats 30x50 mm. The first board or batten from the eaves should be a centimeter thicker than the others to increase the strength of fixation of the sheets and prevent them from being undermined by strong gusts of wind. The pitch of the sheathing should be equal to the pitch of the wave of metal tiles.

Lathing for metal tiles - photo

Nail the first batten at the eaves and check its position. It must be strictly parallel to the ridge, otherwise the waves of the tiles on the roof will not be perpendicular to it, and this is considered a defect. In order to speed up the process of nailing the sheathing, you need to cut several slats along the length of the wave pitch; they will be used as a template. There is a second method to speed up the work - use a rope with blue to beat off parallel lines along the counter-lattice at the required distance. When nailing the slats, be guided by these lines. The skate must have slats; the distance of the slats from the skate cannot exceed ten centimeters. Slats are needed to fix the ridge metal element roofing covering.

The wavelength of metal tiles depends on the brand and thickness of the sheet; select tiles taking into account the individual characteristics of the roof. Each manufacturer supplies its products with instructions describing optimal performance roofs and climate zone. Along the perimeter of the chimney you need to make a continuous sheathing approximately 20÷25 centimeters wide.

Step 5. Installation of a chimney apron.

All manufacturers produce additional elements for roofing, and their list also includes metal flashings for chimneys. They look like flat plates; you need to cut the technological bends yourself, taking into account the dimensions of the chimney.

Measure the width of the bottom of the chimney, mark this value on the bar symmetrically to the edges. Draw a line about 10 centimeters wide with a marker, cut off the vertical edges with scissors, and bend them perpendicular to the drawn line. The whole part of the apron along the line needs to be bent at an angle, equal to the angle the exit of the chimney wall on the roof slope. Don’t be afraid to make a mistake; when fixing the element, the angle will be adjusted to the existing dimensions.

Installation diagram of additional elements around the chimney

Start installing the apron from the bottom wall brick pipe. A flat sheet of metal (tie) with flanges on the sides should be placed under the lower element of the apron; water will flow along it into the catch basins. The side walls of the pipe are finished in the same way, and the top part is sealed last.

In order to prevent water from getting through the chimney stacks under the roofing, it is recommended to recess the side strips into the brickwork. To do this, you need to attach it to the wall and draw a line of contact with the upper edge of the strip on the chimney. Using a grinder with a diamond blade, a line (groove) is cut along the marked location. The cut needs to be cleaned of dust and washed. The curved edge of the strip is inserted into the groove and sealed along the entire length with silicone. This should be done all around the perimeter. brick chimney. The planks are screwed with countersunk screws to the roof sheathing. The junction points are the most dangerous in terms of leaks; be very careful when performing all operations to seal them.

The external chimney sealing apron is installed after laying the metal tiles. Some craftsmen do not want to install an internal apron; we do not recommend simplifying the process of installing the coating by increasing the risk of leaks. By time full installation one apron will not take more than two to three hours; this is not the time, by saving which you can expose the entire roof of the bathhouse to additional risk.

Step 5. Installation of hooks for drainage system.

The hooks should be fixed before installing the metal tile drip, this is very important. Immediately after the hooks, you can install cornice strips.

Important. The bottom of the eaves strip should fall slightly into the gutter. Otherwise, in case of strong gusts of wind rainwater will fall on the wooden elements of the cornice. The gutter of the drainage system itself can be installed after installing the metal tiles.

The distance between the holders is approximately 50 centimeters. The overall slope of the gutter must be at least three millimeters per meter of length; mark a line on each holder for bending in the desired location.

Let's look at how to do this with an example. Let’s say the length of the bathhouse roof slope is 6 meters, the slope between the outer holders should be approximately 6×3 = 18 millimeters. Place all the hooks in a row and align their ends. On the first, mark the bend point, and on the last, mark a point ≈18 millimeters below the first. Connect the dots with a line; each hook will have a mark for its bend. Of course, the holders need to be numbered so that later during fastening they do not change places. Don’t be upset if you fail to maintain millimeter precision during bending; the gutter itself will fall into place over time.

Step 6. A hole for the outlet funnel is marked on the gutter; the width of the hole depends on the diameter of the drainage system. The hole is cut with a hacksaw for metal. Insert the gutter into the holders with an overlap of several centimeters; the edges of the individual pieces of the gutter should fit into the special seats. Secure the gutter with metal tabs to the holders. To improve the sealing of the joints of individual pieces of the gutter, seals can be installed. Plugs are installed at the ends of the gutter. The funnel is installed under the hole and fixed by bending the metal tongue.

Step 7 On top of the installed cornice strip, you need to bring out the edges of the waterproofing sheet and glue it with double-sided tape. In this position, condensation will fall from the canvas into the gutter, and not under the cornice.

Step 8 Sheets of metal tiles are lifted onto the roof one at a time, you can use wooden joists, installed from the ground with emphasis on the beginning of the slope.

If the bathhouse is two-story, then you should use canvas straps to lift it.

The first sheet must be laid exactly along the line of the eaves and the end of the roof.

If rafter system was done according to all the rules, then no problems should arise. If there are errors, place the first sheet with an offset of no more than 1÷2 cm, the last sheet will also have such an offset. The end additional element will cover the unevenness of the sheets.

Fastening is done with special roofing screws with rubber washers.

Self-tapping screws for metal tiles, how many are needed for 1 sq. m.

Important. The self-tapping screw must be screwed into the sheathing by at least two centimeters.

At the bottom of the sheet, the fastening is made in each deflection of the wave; subsequently, the sheets are fastened through the deflection in checkerboard pattern. If the sheets are stacked from left to right, then the second sheet overlaps the first, if in the opposite order, then it overlaps the first. This should be kept in mind and do not tighten the screws on the outer waves of the metal tiles before laying two sheets.

You need to move on the roof very carefully, only in soft shoes; your feet should be placed only in places where the waves bend.

Self-tapping screws must be tightened without under-tightening or over-tightening. The rubber washer should be pressed tightly against the surface of the sheet, but not deform it.

Step 9 Installation of ridge strips.

They can be flat or semicircular, and are equipped with end caps of the appropriate profile. Place the planks with an overlap of up to 10 centimeters and secure them to the metal tiles with ridge screws.

Step 10 Installation of end strips.

Align the ends, all the sheathing slats should be on the same line. The planks are fixed to the wind boards on one side, and to the roofing on the other.

If the bathhouse uses a metal sandwich pipe for the chimney, then in order to reach the roof it is necessary to install a special additional device for engineering equipment- rubber outlet. The diameter of its outlet changes due to cutting off the upper part of the corrugated seal.

How to seal the outlet of a metal pipe

Step, No.	Description	illustration
Step 1	Mark the location of the chimney outlet on the roof and cut a hole with metal scissors
Step 2	Make the same hole in the waterproofing, apply silicone sealant to the waterproofing seal, glue it and secure it to the slats or sheathing boards with metal strips
Step 3	Place the base of the exit to the metal tile profile and bend it to size
Step 4	Apply a layer of sealant on the bottom side of the outlet, install the outlet in place and secure it around the perimeter with self-tapping screws. The diameter of the rubber insert of the device should be approximately 20% less than the diameter of the chimney pipe

If you wish, you can install ventilation holes on the roof. The technology is no different from that described above, only the appearance and engineering design of the ventilation cap differs.

The final touch is the snow guards. It is recommended to install them in areas with heavy snow cover; they protect drainage systems from mechanical damage. The brackets are placed at the bottom of the metal tile wave just above the sheathing. Mark the locations and use a thin drill to drill holes in the tiles and slats. They are needed for bolts and screws increased strength, snow guards must withstand heavy loads. It is recommended to fasten the brackets on rubber pads; the snow retention tubes are inserted into the holes of the brackets.

Video - Installation of metal tiles

Rules and step-by-step instructions for installing flexible tiles

Among modern roofing materials, flexible tiles occupy a worthy place; they are a coating of universal use; they can be used to cover the most complex conical, domed or sloping roofs.

In terms of price value, the material belongs to the average category. Of course, there is a range of prices among different brands and manufacturers flexible tiles may be significant amounts, but based on the average cost, this is a roofing material that is quite affordable for most users. You can see her very often at the baths. All manufacturers' advertising brochures attract the attention of buyers with excellent photographs of various objects, where the roof has not only a variety of colors, but also the shape of the “petals” of the tiles.

But none of the manufacturers provide photographs of roofs with soft tiles after 5–6 years of operation. Do you know why? But because during this time enough dust accumulates between the crumb particles for the growth of mosses and lichens.

We will not discuss the appearance of such a coating; some people may like it - a real “retro roof”. Let them like it, but mosses and lichens “don’t like” the roof itself; the root system of plants destroys the base at an accelerated pace soft tiles. No “modified” bitumens and nonwovens cannot withstand the effects of living nature. This means it's time to save money for complete replacement roofing material. Moreover, do not put off the work; in a few years the plywood will begin to deteriorate and the top veneer will peel off. You will also have to replace expensive plywood. You can, of course, use laminated plywood for the sheathing, but look at its price and soberly assess your financial capabilities. There are options for cleaning moss, but they simultaneously “clean” the surface of crumbs and part of the bitumen.

The base for the tiles is solid, most often sheets of plywood or OSB are used, sometimes there is a more expensive option made from thin edged boards. Depending on the pitch of the rafters, materials with different thicknesses are used.

	Material thickness, mm
Distance between sheathing rafters, mm	OSB	Sheet plywood	Natural edged board
300	9	9	-
600	12	12	20
900	18	18	23
1200	21	21	30
1500	27	27	37

The table shows the approximate parameters of the sheathing materials depending on the distances between the rafter legs. The most advantageous is the use of thinner slabs laid on a sheathing made of unedged boards. So, the strength can be adjusted independently, and the cost of the lathing is minimal. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is significantly reduced - space can be found for almost all slab scraps. We will focus on this option.

Step 1. Check the geometry of the rafter system and the reliability of fixation of all its components. Constructions flexible covering much heavier than metal, the rafter system must be as stable as possible. In addition, the surface of soft tiles is rough, which contributes to the accumulation of increased snow cover, which means additional loads. The angles are checked by measuring the diagonals, the linearity of the rafters using a stretched rope. If there are any deflections, make marks in these places and remove them while laying the step sheathing. The distance between the sheathing boards is 20÷30 centimeters.

Step 2. Start nailing the OSB boards.

Base for flexible tiles – continuous lathing

Baths, as a rule, are small in size and simple roofs, such features make it possible to draw up a preliminary plan for cutting slabs. Having a plan reduces the number of times you cut material, which reduces time and quality. You can fasten the slabs with ordinary nails 40÷50 mm long; if you want to suffer and pay extra money for this pain, fix the slabs with self-tapping screws. There is a lot of controversy surrounding the need to leave a gap between the plates, which supposedly will compensate for thermal expansion.

You shouldn't believe this. How can the gap compensate for the expansion of the slab if it is nailed to the boards in many places? This is, firstly. Secondly, those few tenths of a millimeter by which the slab can actually expand are easily crushed at the edges. Try to ensure that the slabs lie as evenly as possible in one plane. But a difference of a few millimeters should not upset you; flexible tiles will easily hide them without deteriorating their properties.

Step 3. Secure the drainage system hooks.

How this is done is described in detail above in paragraph No. 5 of the “Rules and step by step instructions installation of metal tiles." And the general algorithm for installing a drainage system, including snow retainers, is no different.

Step 4. Install metal droppers on the eaves overhang, secure them in increments of approximately 15 centimeters with roofing nails. It is much easier to hammer nails into metal with a special hammer; it has a sharp tooth, which is used to first punch holes in the sheet and only after that the nail is driven in. The overlap of the droppers is at least three centimeters.

Step 5. Installation of flexible tiles must begin with the chimney; lay a waterproof barrier around its perimeter, it is supplied as a kit. We strongly recommend placing the same barrier around the entire perimeter eaves overhangs. It's inexpensive, but will bring a lot of benefits. Width approximately 50 centimeters. The barrier is self-adhesive, remove the protective film and glue it carefully, do not allow bending, the surface should be flat. Overlaps of at least 20 cm; if the barrier does not adhere well, use special liquid bitumen mastic.

Excess pieces of material are cut off with a construction knife. Place a flat board under the cut line, cut it, remove the board and glue a piece prepared to size. You can additionally fix the underlay carpet with nails with wide heads, the length of the nails is within 20 mm, the pitch is 25÷30 cm.

Important. If the slope of the roof slopes is less than 15°, then it is better to lay the lining carpet along all slopes. The material is laid from bottom to top, overlapping areas are sealed with bitumen mastic. On a skate, a barrier must be installed in all cases.

One more thing. If the profile of the flexible tiles has deep cuts, for example, jazz, tail, trio varieties, then the underlay should be applied over the entire roof.

Step 6. To protect the ends from wind loads, gable strips are nailed to the gable board.

Use nails and a special hammer. The distance between the nails is approximately twenty centimeters; do not forget to overlap the planks. The edge of the plank should be placed on the edge of the wind board, place the nails in a checkerboard pattern.

Step 7 Marking the roof slope. Along the underlay carpet, you need to beat off parallel horizontal lines with a rope with blue, the distance between them is equal to approximately five times the width of the tiles, the distance between the vertical lines should be the size of one shingle. This mesh will greatly simplify and speed up the process of installing flexible tiles. In addition, it completely eliminates the risk of distortions in the rows of tiles. These lines make it possible not only to hold the shingle vertically and horizontally, but also to maintain it on difficult areas of the roof and correct wrong sizes stingray

Step 8 Place a valley carpet around the perimeter of the brick chimney; be sure to coat the joints with bitumen mastic.

Step 9 Setting up the starting line.

This is a very important step, so pay the utmost attention to its implementation. Carry out the work from the center of the cornice, trimming off the excess along the edges. This method will make the entire roof symmetrical, and this is very important for appearance baths The starting strip has its own profile and increased thickness of the adhesive layer. Remove the protective film from the back, carefully lay the material and secure it in a checkerboard pattern with wide-headed nails. You should retreat 1.5 cm from the drip edge.

Step 10. Before you begin laying the shingles, you need to mix them in random order; do not take them in a row from one pile.

The fact is that the color may change slightly and large stripes with different shades will form on your roof. When mixing the shingles, this problem disappears. Each shingle is removed from the reverse side protective film, the tiles are glued evenly and additionally secured with nails.

Important. When driving nails into the lower part of the tiles, you should pay attention to ensure that their heads are covered by subsequent rows. The first row of nails should be one centimeter away from the starting strip.

There are varieties of tiles that do not have the protection of an adhesive layer; they are a little easier to work with. Drive nails only at right angles; the heads should not cut into the roof. For one shingle one meter long, four nails are enough; the head should be located at least two centimeters away from the visible part of the shingle. Each nail should hold two shingles at once.

Step 11 Along the entire perimeter of the brick chimney, the tiles must be laid on mastic, all upper joints must be additionally sealed. To increase the tightness, it is recommended to cut through the groove, insert metal decorative strips into it and bend them down. The junction areas are carefully coated with mastic.

The passage element is coated with bitumen mastic

Pass-through element - fixation

Step 12 Decoration of pediments. The edges of the shingles are additionally coated with mastic. Excess parts are cut off along a straight line with a sharp carpenter's knife.

Step 13 The ridge is first glued with flexible tiles, and then covered with a special metal ridge element. Do not forget to overlap and coat all joints with bitumen mastic. It is advisable to leave a gap of several centimeters in the ridge for natural ventilation of the rafter system. The metal ridge covering is covered with soft tiles. It can be cut out from an ordinary one or torn along the perforation lines of a cornice. Secure the tile sheets with four nails, two on each side. Lay the ridge towards the prevailing wind direction.

If the horse has acute angle or the work on laying tiles is carried out in the cold season, then before bending the ridge tiles, the line should be warmed up construction hairdryer, otherwise it will crack. Some manufacturers promise that their tiles can be laid at temperatures of -5°C. Do not believe or experiment; work should be performed only in warm and dry weather. To prevent the edges of the ridge tiles from being visible, cut them slightly at an angle. There will be a narrow part at the top and a little wider at the bottom. The wide, smooth part of the factory cutting will hide all the handmade irregularities.

At this point the roofing work is completed, you can begin to insulate the roof.

Video - Installation of flexible tiles

An alternative to traditional slate, metal profiles, and ceramic tiles can be roofing materials based on flexible bitumen coatings. If you install a roof made of flexible tiles yourself in accordance with the rules developed by the manufacturers, the aesthetic appeal and reliability of the coating are ensured. How to do the work yourself will be discussed in this article.

The main differences between flexible tiles

Flexible tiles are a material similar in structure and composition to roofing felt. The base is a bitumen-impregnated fiberglass canvas. The shape of the tiles is slabs (shingles) with curly petals along the edge. On the back side there is a sticky layer for gluing to the continuous sheathing, and fine mineral chips are applied to the front side. Additional fastening with nails is provided. After installation, the coating becomes monolithic as a result of sintering individual elements under the sun's rays.

As a result of the improvement of the latter, flexible tiles acquired the following qualities:

The manufacturer's instructions (which must be read after purchasing the covering) contain basic information on how to properly install flexible tiles.

For work, you should choose the warm season at a temperature of +5 °C. Otherwise, the slabs will not stick to the sheathing or to each other. In low temperature conditions, asphalt shingles become brittle.

If installation must be carried out in winter (for partial replacement coating), the slabs are kept in a warm room for at least 24 hours. After laying, the tiles are heated with a construction hairdryer, and the joints are sealed using bitumen mastic.

Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles (video on the topic is at the end of the article) is carried out for roofing systems with a slope angle of at least 11.3°. Otherwise, the melting snow will slow down and leaks will inevitably occur. Under such conditions, the service life of the coating is reduced.

Step-by-step description of the installation of bitumen shingles

Regardless of the manufacturer, installation method bitumen shingles is the same for any coating and consists of the following steps.

Preparatory stage for installation of flexible tiles

Decorating the valley with lining waterproofing

1. Preparing the base. It is necessary to create a continuous sheathing from edged boards, FSF plywood sheets or OSB boards. It is important to achieve a completely flat and hard surface. Board materials (moisture-resistant plywood, OSB) are laid with offset rows to avoid cross-shaped joints. A compensation gap of about 3 mm is left between the plates.

2.Ventilation device. It is necessary to provide for the presence of vents - gaps between the counter-lattice and the sheathing. Between the bitumen shingles and the insulation, covered with a vapor barrier material, there must be space for air circulation. Vents or ridge aerators in the upper zone of the roof must ensure the outflow of water vapor.

3.Laying additional waterproofing lining. It is recommended to choose material from the same manufacturer as the bituminous shingles. Installation begins at the bottom of each overhang and moves towards the ridge. In this case, the upper strip must be laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm over the lower strip. Tightness is ensured by bitumen mastic, which is applied to the joint. In the area of ​​pipes, the waterproofing should extend onto the vertical surface by at least 20 cm. The valleys are covered with a continuous strip of insulation. If it is necessary to join two strips, the joint is made in the upper part with an overlap of 20 cm.

4.Protection of overhangs and gables. The edges of the roof must be covered with metal strips. They are attached on top of the waterproofing. Adjacent elements must be installed with an overlap of 50 mm. Fasteners at the joints should be more frequent - every 2-3 cm. The front strip should overlap the cornice at the joints.

5. Arrangement of passages for antennas, ventilation pipes. To do this, special cornice penetrations and aprons are used, parts are cut out from the valley carpet, and protection is cut out from galvanized sheet iron. The joints are treated with bitumen mastic and silicone sealant.

Finishing the edges of the roof

Important: continuous sheathing made of plywood sheets and OSB boards is attached along the edges of the roof at intervals of 10 cm, at the junctions of the plates (on the rafters) - 15 cm and on intermediate rafter legs - 30 cm.

Laying flexible tiles

To ensure that the coating does not have to be corrected after installation, a laying scheme for flexible tiles is first prepared. This will allow the rows of slabs to be positioned evenly. The marking is done using a cord: horizontal lines are applied in increments of 0.8 m and vertical lines in increments of 1.0 m. It should be taken into account that the lines should not set a clear order for laying the shingles; they are necessary to adjust the direction of the rows.

Laying bitumen shingles is carried out in compliance with the following rules.

Packages of tiles are selected in random order: this will help to avoid contrasting shades of neighboring elements.

At a distance of 20 mm from the edge of the cornice strip, the cornice tiles are laid. Row tiles with pre-cut petals can be used as starting elements. The sticker is applied after removing the protective tape from the adhesive layer and treating the remaining areas with mastic.

The eaves shingles are secured with roofing nails (the fastening pitch corresponds to the width of the blade) in four places. For roofing systems with a large slope, additional fastenings are required: two more nails are driven in along the edge of each sheet.

The next row is laid with the petals offset so that they overlap the recesses and joints of the shingles of the previous (lower) row.

Important: plastic elements are laid on top of the ridge beam to ensure ventilation of the under-roof space.

Finishing complex areas with flexible tiles

Difficult areas of the roof, in addition to passages for antennas, cables and chimneys, can be considered the following:

areas near the end strips;

Methods for sealing the roof in these areas.

Beginning roof installers may have questions about how to make manholes on shingles. Manholes are necessary not only for installation, but also for repairing roofing. There are several options to solve the problem.

Roof ladder

At the end of the article, there is a video tutorial with detailed explanations from a specialist on how to properly lay flexible tiles.

It is unlikely that there will be an owner who will refuse to have the roof of his house covered with reliable, but at the same time affordable roofing material. And if you properly plan your own installation, the structure will not only be well protected from possible damage and bad weather, but will also significantly save a significant amount of money.

Has similar qualities innovative material, which is a flexible tile with a bitumen base (it is also called roofing tiles). Of course, such a roof cannot be called the easiest to make yourself. However, it is not the most difficult either. You just have to understand the technological intricacies of installation, and high-quality performance of such work will be quite possible.

Innovative material

Flexible tiles are small flat sheets. This one has one figured edge. Its basis, as a rule, is fiberglass or fiberglass. However, there are types that are made on organic cellulose, that is, felt. The base of such roofing material is coated on both sides with an impregnating composition, the main component of which is bitumen.

The front part of the flexible tiles is sprinkled with painted specific color basalt granulator. Sometimes mineral chips act as a dye. This or that color of the tile is given by special technologies, thanks to which it is preserved for many decades. The powder present on the roofing tiles gives it more beautiful view, and also protects the surface from various atmospheric phenomena, increases its wear resistance and neutralizes the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Sometimes it happens that in some places the sprinkles simply fall off. This defect occurs only with materials from the economy segment, and it can be easily eliminated with glue and mineral chips of the appropriate color.

Positive characteristics and disadvantages

Flexible tiles can be laid on single- and multi-slope roofs. Due to the fact that this material is small in size and has plasticity, it is simply irreplaceable when arranging roofs. complex shapes(multi-slope, dome-shaped, round). In addition, this coating looks great on buildings of the most various styles architecture.

Among positive qualities flexible tiles can be distinguished:

• durability (about 30 years);
• significant range operating temperature, which allows the use of such material in both southern and northern countries;
• resistance to ultraviolet radiation;
• undemanding to special care;
• ease of installation, which eliminates the need to involve specialists;
• light weight, which rafters of small cross-section can easily withstand;
• a small amount of waste remaining after installation;
• high degree of maintainability;
• good adaptability to changes in the geometry of the building that occur during its shrinkage;
• the ability to withstand strong gusts of wind (with additional reinforcement with 6 nails);
• good heat-saving and sound-insulating properties;
• resistance to acids and negative impact lichens, mosses and fungi.

Among the shortcomings are:

• high cost;
• greater consumption of materials required for arranging the sheathing.

Where to start installing the roof?

Soft roofing material is used for slopes with a slope above 12 percent. If the roof is flatter, then there is a high probability of leaks at the joints. How to lay flexible tiles in this case if you want to use them?

For small roof slopes, it is necessary to lay a continuous special lining carpet on the sheathing to help protect the top layer from moisture.

IN recent years soft material gained great popularity. However, not all developers know how to lay flexible tiles. The instructions for its installation explain that such material must be placed on a sheathing, which differs from the usual one installed for metal tiles or ondulin.

A kind of foundation intended for flexible tiles is the Mauerlat. The rafter system rests on it.

How to lay flexible tiles? It is worth keeping in mind that these do not like unevenness, height changes, unnecessary bends and protruding nails. In this regard, the Mauerlat bars must be laid strictly horizontally. In this case, for the lines that connect the ends of the mauerlats at the ends of the building, an angle of 90 degrees must be observed.

How to lay flexible tiles? For it, it is necessary to prepare either a solid base or knock down the sheathing with gaps of no more than 0.5 cm. This is where the difference between this system and any similar other system ends. Otherwise, an approximate roof pie made of flexible tiles consists of laid on the rafters vapor barrier film, on top of which there is insulation. Next, a waterproofing film is placed on the roof, OSB board and underlay carpet. This entire structure is completed with soft roofing material.

How to lay flexible tiles on iron roof? To do this you will need to level its surface. Of course, flexible tiles can be laid on top of existing material, but in this case its ridges will be visible visually, and the presence of air gaps near them will reduce the service life of soft slabs. Using the option of leveling the surface, a sheathing of slats or OSB sheets is laid on top of the iron.

The bases for roofing material may be different. Let's take a closer look at them.

Continuous sheathing

This is the first version of the base, which is made from tongue-and-groove or edged boards, joined end-to-end or with small gaps. It is advisable that entire boards be laid without splicing. If such an arrangement is not possible, the joints should be located above the rafters with the edges carefully secured. When solving the question “How to lay flexible tiles?”, height differences should not be allowed. Otherwise, the tiles laid on such boards will accumulate water, and therefore there will be a high probability of water leakage.

Arrangement of slab material

The base for flexible tiles can be made differently. In this case, slab material must be laid on the sheathing, made of unedged or edged boards. It can be moisture-resistant OSB, DSP, gypsum fiber boards or plywood. The thickness of such sheets should not be less than 9 mm.

How to lay flexible tiles on OSB and other boards? According to the instructions, such a substrate must be fastened so that the seams located in one row necessarily overlap another. In order to compensate for expansion during temperature fluctuations, a small gap (from 3 to 5 mm) can be left between adjacent sheets.

Features of lathing installation

How to lay flexible tiles? Due to the fact that the material is not affected by mold and fungi, it does not deteriorate or rot. However, it is laid on wood, which is damaged when high humidity. What needs to be done in this regard? All wooden structures must be treated with antiseptic impregnations. However, that's not all.

In order for wood to serve for many years, it must be subject to natural ventilation. To do this, gaps of 5 mm must be left between the waterproofing layer and the base under the roof slabs. Sometimes for this purpose they arrange a counter-lattice, to which the base is attached. In addition, special ventilation holes are made along the perimeter of the roof, placing them in the overhangs. To prevent birds and insects from entering such openings, they are covered with nets.

Features of work at different times of the year

How to lay flexible tiles? It must be installed on a clean, dry and level base. In this case, the work is carried out in several stages. It is advisable to start them in the warm season, when the air temperature is more than five degrees above zero. This will allow the coating to become airtight, which will create certain ease of operation. It is advisable to comply with this condition because if it gets on the material sun rays bitumen is heated. This process allows it to fuse with the plates into a single whole. Only in this case, the coating, which consists of individual sheets, turns into a monolith.

How to lay flexible tiles in winter? If it is necessary to carry out work in the cold season, you will need to use infrared heaters or heat guns. Only in this case will it be possible to heat the material so that the installation conditions are close to summer ones. But you should not lay flexible tiles in severe frosts, even if there are heaters at hand. To avoid downtime, you can start installing building structures roofing, installation and installation of thermal insulation.

Additional waterproofing

This is the first stage of installation of flexible tiles. A layer of additional waterproofing is laid in valleys, along overhangs, as well as in places adjacent to the building, on ridges and attic windows. This layer will serve as additional insurance against leaks in places where the greatest accumulation of water will be observed.

The waterproofing carpet is fastened with roofing nails in increments of 40 cm. Along the lower edge this distance should be more frequent (10 cm). The second layer must be laid on top of the first layer. In places where there is an abutment with a wall or pipe, the material should extend onto them by 5-10 cm.

This task is not faced by those who solve the question “How to put flexible tiles on a gazebo with your own hands?” After all, in this case there simply won’t be a pipe.

and end strips

This is the second stage of the ongoing work on laying flexible tiles. It is necessary to protect the ends and cornices from water flow. To preserve the roofing material, it is necessary to fill the eaves strips along the entire roof overhang. They are secured with nails, which are driven in every 10 cm. Moreover, one of them should be located at the bottom of the plank, and the second along its top, and so on. Adjacent planks are laid with an overlap of 5 cm.

The end strips are placed according to the same pattern and at the same intervals. Their installation begins at the bottom of the roof with gradual movement to the ridge.

Laying the valley carpet

In places where roof slopes meet (in valleys), a special protective carpet must be placed. It is thicker than waterproofing coating, due to the required protection of slopes where significant water flows pass. The valley carpet must be rolled out from top to bottom and attached with nails every 10 cm. Such a covering is also important when deciding the question “How to lay flexible tiles on the roof of an octagonal gazebo or any other one with a multi-pitched roof?”

Fastening the cornice strip

Let's consider the fourth stage of laying flexible tiles. This material is similar to the main one, but does not have a figured lower part. The eaves strip is the starting strip and is designed to form an even bottom edge along the entire perimeter of the overhang. The work of this stage should not be skipped by those owners who are deciding the question “How to lay flexible tiles on a gazebo?”

There is a protective film on the reverse side of the strip. It must be removed and this element placed, 1-2 cm away from the bend of the cornice strip. After installation, the strip must be pressed. Next, it is nailed in places of perforation and along the edges.

Installation of tiles

This is the fifth stage of roofing work. Pre-prepared packages of tiles should be located under a canopy or indoors. During installation, they are transferred to the building under construction. It is worth keeping in mind that the material in different packs, as a rule, is slightly different in color. In this regard, it is recommended to open 4-6 packages at a time. You need to take sheets from them alternately. In this case, the roof will be more voluminous, and the stripes different shades It won't be particularly visible. This condition must also be met when the question “How to install flexible tiles on a hip roof?” is being resolved.

Laying the material begins from the center, gradually moving to the ends. The lower edge of the first row of tiles is placed flush with the eaves strip. The upper edge of the flexible tile should cover such a strip by several centimeters.

Horse

This is the final stage of installation of flexible tiles. The ridge is closed after all slopes are completely covered with roofing material.

At this stage, either special tiles are used, or ordinary tiles are cut into separate fragments. The second option is cheaper, because the price of special ridge tiles is twice as high as regular ones.

Flexible tiles today are one of the most popular materials that are used in the form of roofing for roofs. There are several reasons why it has become so widespread in our market.

Firstly, in terms of all possible colors and shapes, it occupies a leading position among all types of coating. Today, each brand of bitumen shingles is represented by at least 40-50 types various options, so even the most picky buyer will always be able to find the option he likes. Secondly, in terms of convenience and speed of installation - this is also the most successful, from a technological point of view, coating option that does not require the use of special equipment and tool. Due to its low weight, the work of lifting and delivering directly to the work site is simplified. Thirdly, having the properties of elasticity and flexibility, this type coatings can be used on any type and shape of roof, even those with radial curvature. The last advantage characteristic only of this type of coating is that with the advent of bitumen shingles, it became possible to implement projects of certain roofing forms that were previously impossible to carry out technologically. It should be noted that such material is affordable.

Before laying flexible tiles, it is necessary to carry out a number of activities that are related to the arrangement of " roofing pie" In this article, I will consider all the stages of work associated with laying bitumen shingles, which must be completed after the installation of the rafter system is completed.

Installation of waterproofing film

The first stage of work involves laying a waterproofing (windproof) film. In this case, you can use a diffusion film-membrane, since the covering of flexible tiles does not contain elements susceptible to corrosion. In this regard, there is no need to apply additional measures to eliminate this type of impact on the material. This class of insulation is quite widely represented on the market, but the most optimal and often used in construction is the waterproof film of the Czech company Juta, called Jutafoll 110-D. When purchasing, pay attention to the “D” marking, since this letter means that the film is waterproofing, and not, for example, intended for use in the range of negative temperatures, unlike other markings that are intended for indoor use only. The number 110 is not so important, since it indicates the density of the film. If this parameter is higher, then this will only have a positive effect on the technical characteristics.

Installation of the membrane is quite simple. The first roll of film is rolled out along the eaves overhang across the rafters and nailed to them with pre-prepared slats. It is convenient to shoot the film with a staple gun before doing this. The slats will act as a counter-lattice and perform the function ventilation gap between waterproofing film and the main sheathing. These measures are taken to organize circulation air flow, and thereby eliminates the collection of moisture in hard-to-reach places. Also, given the fact that the air has good thermal insulation properties, these measures are designed to solve the problem of heating in summer and freezing of the roof in winter (the formation of ice and icicles is excluded). The height of the slats is chosen within the range of 25-50 mm, the width should be strictly equal to the width of the rafter leg. They are cut into lengths of 150 cm, as is the width of the film.

The lath does not overlap the film to a distance (an overlap of at least 12 cm is made at any membrane joints). In all cases, galvanized rough nails are used for installation, the length of which is selected depending on the thickness of the counter-lattice (the length must be at least +50mm of its thickness). On all roof ridges, the film is not applied 5-10 cm to its end due to the fact that the movement of air under the roofing starts from the eaves and ends at the ridge, so such a gap is made to allow it to escape outside. The film can be glued together with double-sided adhesive tape, but this is not a necessary condition.

Lathing and final surface preparation

Next, the final sheathing is placed on top of the counter-lattice. Any board (both edged and unedged) is suitable as a material, the thickness of which is selected in the range of 25-30 mm. The material must be dry before installation (with relative humidity no more than 20%) and must be treated with a fire-bioprotective preparation. Also when using unedged boards It is necessary to completely remove the tree bark, since in the future this can lead to woodworms getting in between the bark and the wood. The distance between adjacent boards should be no more than 30-35 cm (depending on the thickness of the board used). The length of the nail is chosen such that, when nailed, it pierces both the sheathing and the counter-lattice and fits tightly into the rafter by at least 2-3 cm.

The peculiarity of flexible tiles as a covering is that the roof plane must be smooth and even before laying it. Therefore, if an edged board is used as flooring (this option is allowed by the manufacturer), then differences between adjacent boards are not allowed to exceed 2 mm. This must be carefully monitored to avoid fractures and kinks of the tiles during installation.

It is better to start installing OSB boards on the roof from the hip.

I recommend using moisture-resistant OSB-3 board as flooring. The thickness is usually chosen 10-11mm. Unlike a board, when used, it produces an ideal plane; also, having moisture-resistant properties, it does not warp or warp throughout its entire service life. When laying, it is necessary to make 3-5 mm gaps between each sheet of slabs to prevent their swelling at the joints, since the linear dimensions of the material will change with fluctuations in humidity and temperature. To nail the slabs, galvanized nails 3x30 with a large head are used. The nailing pitch between nails is 25-30 cm.

Then they proceed directly to laying bitumen shingles. First, lining carpets based on fiberglass are rolled out. They are optional waterproofing material between OSB-3 board and bitumen shingles. If the roof slope is less than 18 degrees, then underlay carpets must be laid over the entire roof plane. But even at large angles of inclination, carpets must be laid in the following places:

• On the eaves. This is one of the most important places especially in winter period, since when the snow melts, ice and icicles form in these places, and in this case the load in the parts of the roof under consideration increases.
• On the gables. Such places are most susceptible to moisture ingress during slanting rains.
• On skates and ribs.
• In valleys (joints of roof planes). Here it is necessary to use carpets with color tinting of the main roof covering.
• In places of various connections and abutments of walls, chimneys and others.

In valleys, the carpet is laid with an overlap of 0.5 meters.

The distances from the edges of the cornices should be about 1-2 cm, since in hot weather the underlay carpets may heat up and straighten. They need to be nailed only in the upper parts at a distance of 20-25 cm, and all joints should be made with an overlap of about 10 cm. Then the cornice and pediment strips made of stainless steel are installed. To do this, you need to use the same 3x30 galvanized nails with a large head. The planks are nailed in a checkerboard pattern in increments of 15-20 cm. At the joints there is a mandatory overlap of 15 cm, secured with two nails.

After this, they proceed to laying the first row of tiles. According to the standards, it has a rectangular shape (without petals). First, all places where metal strips come into contact with bitumen shingles must be coated with bitumen mastic. The mastic has a fairly thick consistency at room temperatures, so to make it easier to work with, you need to preheat the container with the product. It is applied to the surface of the tiles using a narrow construction spatula. The thickness of the applied layer does not exceed 1-2 mm, since it does not contain adhesive base, and with thick seams, the lubricated surfaces can simply come apart. One shingle is nailed with four nails at the top. If the roof slope is more than 60 degrees, then two additional nails must be used.

The second and subsequent rows of tiles are nailed with an offset of half a period (1/3 or 2/3 depending on the chosen shape of the tile itself). Every 3-4 rows must be checked for horizontalness, or pre-marked for the upcoming row (a thread with colored talcum powder is ideal for this purpose), but this is quite painstaking work and takes a lot of time. When adjusting, bitumen shingles have to be cut. To do this, it is better to use a short knife with a blade pointed at the end. It is necessary to cut off from the back side of the tiles, placing a piece of a flat board or plywood to prevent accidental damage to the previously laid tiles. A knife is drawn along the mark about 3-4 times, then the shingles are bent along the cut line, and the tiles are easily divided into two parts.

To work on roofs with a slope of more than 30 degrees, a series of additional measures, increasing the convenience of work. The first thing you need to use when working is a safety cable or rope. The second is the use of temporary slats, which are nailed to the slope, bending the petals of the already laid tiles. Otherwise, during installation you will have to constantly keep the rope taut, since you will not be able to stand on such slopes on your own. And thirdly - the use of workwear (construction overalls) for competent and functional distribution the necessary tool on pockets and loops for purposes quick access to him.

In areas of ribs and ridges, the installation of tiles is carried out with an overlap (the sheet run is bent 10-15 cm to another plane of the roof and nailed). Then the tiles are cut into individual petals and mounted on top along the line of the ridge (rib), and each subsequent petal is nailed in such a way that the places of the nail heads are covered from the previous tile element.

There are several basic methods for installing shingles in valley areas. The first is that the tile elements are laid end-to-end on both roof planes. The second involves laying tiles within 10 cm of the center line. The latter method is preferable from both an aesthetic and practical point of view, since a kind of hollow is formed between the two roof slopes, which simplifies the drainage of rainwater, and thereby prevents the formation of local areas in which moisture can collect in the future. In valleys, the use of nails closer than 30 cm from its center is not allowed; for this, the contact points of the underlayment and tiles are coated with mastic to a width of 10-15 cm. The upper parts of the petals of each row are carefully cut at an angle of 60 degrees.

Final stage

At the junctions of walls and chimneys, the tiles are placed on a vertical plane to a height of 20-30 cm, having previously coated the joints with bitumen mastic. Then, at the place where the tile ends, a junction strip is installed on top of it, and all resulting gaps are sealed with heat-resistant silicone sealant. It is advisable to install metal boxes around chimneys and pipes, using basalt-based insulation as an insulator. They significantly improve the hydrophobic properties at the joints, preventing all kinds of leaks in complex areas of the roof.

Aerators are necessary for air circulation in the inter-roof space.

At a distance of a maximum of 50-60 cm from the roof ridge, it is necessary to install aerators, which serve to remove air from the inter-roof space and, thereby, allow for proper air circulation. The number of aerators is selected from the following calculation: one aerator for every 25 square meters roofs. Currently, ridge aerators have also become widely used, which are a structure with an air gap installed directly in the area of ​​the entire length of the ridge. All joints and overlaps around the aerators must be treated with mastic.

It is worth noting that everything installation work on the tiles must be carried out at an ambient temperature of at least 15 degrees; at lower temperatures, you should use a hair dryer, heating the tiles in places of kinks. On too sunny and hot days, you need to postpone the installation of the roof, not only for safety own health, but also due to the fact that the tiles begin to melt easily, and when moving across the coating, marks and dents remain, which in the future do not look aesthetically pleasing.

Private construction and use soft roof- the topic is quite relevant. This material has a lot of advantages. Among them are light weight, absolute tightness, visual appeal, the ability to be used on a wide variety of roof shapes, long useful life and low cost of soft roofing. Moreover, the rain does not drum on such a roof, but rustles quietly. In addition to high performance and technical characteristics, the material allows you to install a soft roof yourself, without involving specialists.

The concept of a soft roof

Soft roofing is a modern material, the base of which is fiberglass sheets impregnated on both sides with rubber bitumen. Rubber bitumen is highly airtight and moisture resistant, which is why soft roofing has become so widespread in the construction of buildings. Also, soft roofing contains a special coating that increases wear resistance and prevents the roll covering from sticking together.

Soft roofing is considered an ideal covering for roofs with a slope angle of at least 11 degrees. Therefore, when choosing a material for such strict requirements, be careful. Soft roofing is often called bitumen shingles, which are used as the top layer of the roofing cake and differ from other materials in its structure, which resembles rolled materials.

Styling tools

Flexible roofing can be laid by 1 person. The only requirement for the roof surface, which we have already mentioned, is a slope of no more than 11º. But the maximum slope angle is not limited. Laying a soft roof with your own hands requires the following materials and tools: a hammer, a knife, mastic, sealant, a mastic trowel, roofing nails, eaves and end strips, a waterproofing carpet, a ridge-eaves strip and work gloves.

Ventilation device

The ventilation system is able to provide air circulation, which is necessary to prevent condensation from occurring on the lower part of the base. Neglecting this stage when laying soft roofing on the roof will cause the rafter system to begin to rot, and ice and icicles will form in winter.

Components of the system roof ventilation ventilation ducts and outlets protrude, gaps between the waterproofing and the base (minimum 5 millimeters). Natural ventilation can be provided by ventilation holes that are distributed evenly under the eaves.

Lining layer

Cornice strips are made of metal and attached to the overhangs of the cornices on a lining. They are required to protect the edges of the sheathing. Gable strips are also made of metal; they are attached to the ends of the roof to protect the edges of the sheathing. The valley carpet provides additional protection roofs from precipitation. Choose it according to the color of the flexible tiles.

In places where leaks are most likely, you need to create a lining layer: on valleys, roof ends and eaves. A special feature of the installation is compliance with the direction (bottom to top) and overlap: in the longitudinal direction - 150 millimeters, in the transverse direction - 100 millimeters. It is customary to coat the overlap areas with bitumen mastic.

It is customary to reinforce valleys and ridges by 500 and 250 millimeters, respectively. In this case, the valleys must be equipped with a lining layer on both sides, and along the ends and eaves overhangs it should be laid to a width of at least 400 millimeters.

The lining is nailed to the base with galvanized roofing nails every 200 millimeters. Underlay carpet not only protects the roof from moisture, but also from destruction if the installation of the soft roof is suspended.

Preparatory work

The base to which you will attach the soft roof must be solid. This is precisely why the process of installing a roof made of soft tiles differs from roofs for which other materials are used. For example, metal tiles must be laid on a sheathing in which a gap is allowed between the beams, which is explained by the high rigidity of the metal tiles. Soft roofing does not have these qualities and therefore needs pre-installation solid foundation.

For arranging the base, you can use oriented strand board, moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 9 millimeters or more, as well as tongue-and-groove or tongue-and-groove edged board. If you have chosen a board as the base, it is recommended to first keep it in a stack until an equilibrium moisture level is reached.

Buy material in winter and use in summer. The width of the boards is no more than 100 millimeters. It is desirable that the material has the same thickness and is sawn to band saw. The maximum moisture content of wood is 20%.

The video about the technology of laying soft roofs shows that such materials need to be laid with the seams shifted - staggered, leaving a gap of 1 centimeter between them. The surface must be dry, clean and smooth. The quality of installation and service life of the soft roof will depend on these conditions.

The roofing pie must have the following layers: waterproofing layer, laid on the rafters; mineral wool insulation if you are planning to install an attic; waterproofing roofing carpet laid overlapping on the base from the outside.

Subtleties of installing a soft roof

To cover a roof with a soft roof with your own hands, in addition to having free time, you also need good weather. It is customary to carry out work in warm, dry weather, and the air temperature should not fall below plus 5 Celsius. If, due to necessity, it is necessary to lay a soft roof in the winter at an inopportune time, the tiles must be kept in a building with room temperature. You can also use a hot air burner.

Choosing one temperature regime is explained by the characteristics of shingles - a sheet consisting of 3-4 “tiles”. It can be attached to the surface with nails or using a self-adhesive layer located on inside. The tightness of the tiles is ensured by the heat of the sun; under its influence, the sheets are soldered to the base and to each other. This does not happen at sub-zero temperatures, and high-quality insulation does not work.

Soft tiles should be used simultaneously from 5-6 packages and selected one element at a time to avoid sharp differences in shades in case it is necessary to repair the soft roof with elements from another package. It is this property that constitutes another advantage of this material: a slight difference in shades facilitates the process of replacing tiles and decorates its matte surface.

Choice of mastic

To lay the top layer of a soft roof, you should use a bitumen-polymer material, which allows you to create a continuous elastic coating that can withstand temperature and mechanical deformations of the base. According to the technology of laying soft roofing for fastening to the roof roll material It is recommended to use cold and hot mastics.

Cold mastics are traditionally used for the internal layers of the roof, and the hot substance is used as an external coating. Cold mastics include roofing felt and bitumen, and hot mastics include tar and roofing felt. The mastic used must contain bitumen and a pulverized mixture or fiber filler. Among the dusty materials are lime, gypsum and ash.

Production of bitumen mastic

You can buy bitumen mastic, but you can also make it yourself. To do this, take bitumen, which is close to 80% of mastic, and filler. Taking 2 portions of bitumen and diesel fuel for 1 portion of filler, you will get cold mixture. The bitumen needs to be heated to 180 degrees while diesel fuel and filler are being prepared elsewhere. Both boilers can be mixed only after the water has evaporated in the bitumen.

To make hot mastic you need to use a boiler. The bitumen in it should be heated to 200 degrees, and filler should be added slowly. It is important that during the procedure the temperature does not drop below 160 degrees.

To check the quality of the mastic, you need to lay it at an angle of 45 degrees, after heating the mastic to 60 degrees. The video about laying a soft roof shows: if the coating drains, then its quality is poor. If it does not drain, then you should let it dry. When drying out quality material cracks will not appear.

Laying a soft roof

Before directly laying the roof, run a solution of bitumen and diesel fuel over the wood surface. Then slowly coat with mastic, then lay down glassine and roofing felt. It is customary to start installation from the middle part of the cornice and move towards the ends to the right and left. On the underside of soft tiles, before applying, you need to remove the film that protects the glue.

If you use cold mastic, then you need to wait 12 hours after applying a layer, only then can you apply a new layer. When covering with hot mastic, you can apply layers one after another. Each roofing element must be nailed with 4-6 nails.

When laying rolls according to the instructions for laying soft roofing, make a 7-10 cm overlap. In all cases, it is recommended to follow the overlap rule: place each top row so that the fastening joints of the previous one are covered. The next new layer is shifted depending on their number (with 2 layers - by half, and with 3 - by a third).

Along the edges of the roof, trim off the excess and glue with mastic. Thanks to the properties of modern soft roofing materials, the useful life of the roof covering is about 30 years. But this does not mean that you can forget about preventive measures.

Installation near ventilation pipes

Proper insulation of joints and careful fastening of material require space around antennas and pipes. Installation of a soft roof here is easy provided that passage elements are used. Without such components, the tightness of the coating is compromised. Even before laying the bitumen shingles, you need to outline the places where you will install ventilation and pipes.

Then you need to cut holes around which the edges of the lining carpet will be glued with mastic. Spread the top surface of the carpet along the contours of the elements that need to be glued and nailed. Place the tiles on top of the mastic.

It is recommended to treat the joints between the upper part of the passage element and the bitumen shingles with sealant. Having completed the work to the ridge line, you need to use special ridge elements of flexible tiles, which are bent over it, glued to mastic and nailed.

Soft roof repair

Frequency repair work What needs to be done with the roof of the house depends directly on the base on which you installed the tiles, and on the cost of laying a soft roof. Wood lumber, cement and concrete screed - they all react differently to the soft roof, which causes certain damage.

Cleaning the damaged area

Immediately before starting repairs, determine whether such work is needed at all and to what extent. To do this, assess the extent of damage present. If in roll covering holes have formed, it is recommended to fill them with mastic, observing the sequence of materials used for this.

Roll roofing repairs should be carried out exclusively in a clean area. And this is very problematic, because roofing material there is a special sprinkle. For this reason, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the area where repair work will be carried out.

Crumbs can be removed by using process oil. Anthracene oil is best suited for cleaning roofing felt, while solar oil is used for roofing felt. Clean with a regular rag or brush. With this treatment, you can remove the coating and soften the surface for further repairs.

Repair work

After preparing the damaged area, you can proceed to main job. At small defects You can use regular mastic with a patch. But this solution is not suitable if all roofing layers are broken.

If several layers of the roof are damaged at the same time, it is recommended to clean the area from the old layer of mastic and dirt, and then dry it. After this, you need to prepare a mastic mixture with the addition of sawdust or sand. This mixture should be used to fill all existing damage so as to even out the edges. The mastic should extend at least 10 centimeters on all sides of the patch.

Using hard brushes and brushes, mastic can be applied to the most difficult to reach places. If you are working on a small area, then it is advisable to use a simple spatula, which allows you to apply thick mastic and sawdust mixture. If a “water bubble” occurs in the roof, repairs must be carried out in the same way as in a situation with a regular hole. The main thing is to determine in time the source where the water comes from.

If cracks appear in the roofing material, it should be cut to the bottom layer. Then clean off excess mastic and debris, after which the area is dried and filled with new mastic. You can do without a cut if the cracks are small. They should be covered with a patch and mastic. If small cracks appear throughout the entire area of ​​the soft roof, it must be prepared and covered with heated mastic.

Restoration of sprinkles

After repairing the soft roof, it is necessary to replace the removed layer of topping in place to avoid unnecessary heating of the material and melting of the mastic. To do this, smooth the surface and cover the roof with sand. Excess coating that does not adhere to the roof will be removed on its own over time. However, if you want, you can remove it yourself.

Now you have learned what advantages a soft roof has - tightness, long service life and a reasonable price for laying a soft roof. Follow our instructions carefully to install flexible tiles correctly. Use the recommendations regarding the choice of mastic and its preparation. And if minor problems arise during the operation of the roof, re-read the information about repairing soft roofs.