Since ancient times, residential buildings made of wood have been considered the warmest. They create a special microclimate favorable for humans. An additional advantage of such buildings is their naturalness and environmental friendliness. Of course, building a house from a log is a task that only a master can do. But today there are many other wood materials on sale that are quickly and easily installed. For example, you can easily build houses from timber with your own hands. In our article we will describe step by step how to build such a house, and also talk about the intricacies of building a house from timber - a video of the installation process is attached.

General information

A timber house is a beautiful structure with an optimal microclimate and humidity inside, which is achieved due to the fact that the wood has a special structure that ensures microcirculation of air in the walls. Wooden houses are good because they are practically not hot in summer, and in winter they retain heat well.

You can build a wooden house from several types of timber:

• Glued laminated timber is an element that consists of individual wood lamellas glued together coniferous species.
• Profiled timber is made from solid wood.
• Ordinary timber.

The first two products have grooves for tight, hermetically sealed fixation of adjacent elements. Also, elements may differ in humidity:

• Dry material after chamber drying is much better and shrinks less.
• Wood natural humidity subject to shrinkage, deformation and cracking.

Important: glued and profiled timber is the most popular. Products can have a square or rectangular cross-section. And the tongue-and-groove system makes installation easier.

That is why the construction of houses made of timber is most often carried out using one of these two materials, because you can build such a house with your own hands. In addition, a house built from this material does not need exterior or interior decoration. Assembling a house from timber is quick and easy thanks to the presence of a factory diagram, and standard projects such buildings are easy to find on the Internet. So that you have an idea of ​​how to properly build a house from timber, we offer detailed video material.

Foundation

Building a house from timber with your own hands should begin with the construction of a foundation. Since a building made of wood is light in weight, a lightweight foundation can be laid. Yes, you can choose following types grounds:

1. If the house will be built with a basement or cellar, then it is better to use a monolithic strip foundation. For construction without a basement, it is better to use a shallow-depth tape.
2. You can also build a house from timber on a pile-screw foundation with a grillage. This type of construction is more suitable for wet, loose and silty soils.
3. Sometimes a columnar structure is used as a base. The pillars are made of concrete blocks and installed in 1.5 m increments.
4. In some cases, the best option would be monolithic slab foundation. In this case, you do not need to spend money on arranging the floor.

Since strip foundations are most often used, let us consider the sequence of its implementation in detail:

1. First of all, the site is prepared and the future structure is marked.
2. Further under all external and internal load-bearing walls a trench is dug 10 cm wider than the thickness of the walls.
3. A sand and gravel cushion 15 cm high is made at the bottom of the trench. The sand is moistened with water and compacted.
4. Wooden formwork is being installed.
5. After this, concrete is poured in a layer 5 cm high.
6. A reinforcement cage is installed in the formwork so that it does not approach the formwork structure itself by more than 5 cm.
7. Poured concrete mortar and is compacted.
8. During the hardening process, the concrete is moistened with water and covered with a film.
9. After 28 days, you can begin installing the walls.

Installation of walls and floors

You can easily understand how to build a house from timber with your own hands, with our step by step guide. Before laying the first row of beams it is necessary to carry out horizontal waterproofing foundation. To do this, its surface is covered with two layers of roofing material on bitumen mastic.

You can make your own house from 150 mm thick timber if construction is carried out in warm regions of our country. Otherwise, it is better to take timber 200 mm thick. Under the first crown it is necessary to lay a lining board 50 mm thick. It is better to use a board made of larch wood.

Important: the backing board and the first crown are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation.

1. Regardless of the method of laying the remaining crowns, the first crown is mounted in a “half-tree”. In this case, the corner connection can be made in a “half-tree”, using a root tenon, end-to-end.
2. After installing the first and second crowns, they begin to install the logs for arranging the floor. If the basement of the house allows it, then the logs can be laid on it. Otherwise they will crash into the first crown. The lag pitch is 40-70 cm. The larger the pitch, the greater the thickness of the subfloor boards (25-40 mm).
3. Then they are attached to the joists on the sides cranial bars, on which the rolling boards are laid.
4. Next comes a layer of waterproofing. It should go around the logs themselves.
5. After this, the gaps between the joists are laid on the boards and waterproofing. thermal insulation material.
6. After this, the entire structure is covered with a layer of vapor barrier.
7. The subfloor is being installed.

Nuances of wall installation:

• Laying the next crown is carried out after tape insulation, tow, wait or flax is laid on the surface of the previous element. The insulation is fixed with a stapler.
• The beams are fastened together with wooden dowels. To do this, holes are drilled in the beams in increments of 1.5 m: the upper beam is drilled through, and the bottom – halfway. A dowel is driven into the holes and recessed 1 cm deep.
• During the process of laying timber in window and doorways temporary supports are installed. They are made from unedged boards according to the size of the openings.
• Installation internal partitions performed only after the box has been erected. They crash into solid walls.

If the house has a second floor, we build a house from timber with our own hands in the following sequence:

1. After completing the walls of the first floor, we make slots in the last crown for laying the floor beams. Additionally, we fix the beams using steel corners. The beam spacing is 70 cm.
2. Laying the subfloor.
3. We line the bottom of the beam with clapboard. This will give us the ceiling of the first floor.
4. Next, we install the walls in the same way as the first floor.

Construction of the roof of the house

Even if houses made of timber are built for seasonal living, the process of installing the roof should be given maximum attention. Most often, wooden houses are made of gable or broken roofs. If selected gable version you can arrange comfortable attic, which can serve as a living space.

The last crown will be used as a mauerlat. The roof is installed in the following sequence:

1. The easiest way to collect pairs rafter legs on the ground. By connecting them with puffs, we get a rigid structure, like a truss, which can be easily installed on the roof.
2. First, we install the two outer pairs of rafter legs. That is, we will get two pediments.
3. Next, we connect them with a ridge beam.
4. Now you can install all subsequent rafter pairs. We take their step to be 90 cm.
5. We spread a vapor barrier over the surface of the rafters. We fasten it with a stapler and additionally fix it with counter slats, which we stuff onto the rafters.
6. We fill the sheathing across the direction of laying the counter battens. The sheathing pitch is 40 cm. If the covering is made of soft rolled material, then we perform continuous sheathing from OSB.
7. Now you can proceed to laying the selected roofing covering.

The roof needs to be thoroughly insulated from the inside. To do this, we place heat-insulating material (mineral wool) in the gaps between the joists. We cover the entire structure from below with a vapor barrier membrane. Now you can line the attic ceiling with clapboard.

Further work

If the house was built from laminated veneer lumber, then the installation of windows and doors, as well as finishing, can begin immediately. When installing from other materials, you need to wait 3-6 months, during which the house will shrink, and only then begin further work.

After shrinkage, all cracks and cracks formed on the walls must be sealed with mastic or caulked. Now you can start installation window frames and door blocks. In a house made of profiled and laminated timber there is no need to finish it, since the walls already look beautiful. If the walls are made of ordinary timber, then they should be sanded, painted or varnished. The outer surface of the walls of a house made of ordinary timber also needs finishing. It can be performed from different building materials– lining, vinyl siding, brick, etc.

Care

In order for a house made of timber to last as long as possible, it must be properly cared for:

• Once every 3-4 years protective coating wood needs to be renewed.
• To avoid rotting of the walls, it is necessary to monitor the condition of the foundation. It should not be flooded by surface or groundwater.

DIY timber house - video:

Technology for building a wooden house from timber with your own hands step by step. Those who have a country house are more interested in building a wooden house than anyone else. If you build a residential building from timber, you will have comfortable housing, which differs from many buildings in its high quality.

The technology for building a house from timber is simple, and anyone who knows how to use an electric saw can take on this task.

Let's look at how everything works.

Construction begins with the selection of materials. The main thing at this stage is to choose quality material. What do you need to know to make the right choice?

Properties such as strength and density are inherent specifically in wood, and this can even be compared with metals, which means that the requirements for the choice of material are many times higher. IN wooden house The walls must be durable, have a long service life, and will also be excellent sound insulators. In addition, wooden walls must support temperature regime in the house. But wood also has a number of disadvantages, since it does not have resistance to fire, with sedimentary deformation, which can appear soon after construction.

We are building a house

We design

Next you need to be even more careful, since creating a house project is not so easy. When planning, you should carefully calculate everything, as this will play important role when purchasing material. You can draw the project yourself, but there are many companies that will provide you ready plans, corresponding to the wishes of the customer. If you contact a construction company, the plan will be developed according to all geometric rules, and factors such as seismic resistance and others will be taken into account.

Foundation set made of timber

When you have figured out the project, you should start. The technology of building a house from timber is also designed for the presence of a foundation, which must fully comply with all standards of strength and reliability.

Factors

The foundation and its choice depends on the following factors:

• Characteristics of the soil on which it will be.
• Weight of the expected load.
• Design features.

The foundation can be wooden or... Some development companies prefer a concrete base, on which they need to be laid, and only after that the walls made of timber. But there are also those who want a completely wooden house.

Species

There is also a foundation:

• Shallow laying
• Deep laying.

The most common of them are shallow and. According to technology, it should have a depth of 0.5 to 0.7 m.

Construction of a house

After everything is ready with the foundation, the construction of the log house begins. In this case, it is important to choose correct assembly. The technology for constructing timber walls is done in rows. By analogy, in such houses, timber is laid on timber, like layers of lettuce, on top of each other. This way you will build the walls step by step.

The logs that will be used for construction have special grooves that make it possible to make a tight connection. For insulation at the joints, a special material is used. You can strengthen the walls and make them stronger thanks to the spikes that connect the beams.

In a simplified version of construction, raw pine timber is used. It is very lightweight and does not require the use of a crane.

After this, when building a house from timber, you need to take into account some nuances. The seams must be caulked to prevent blowing, and the walls must be treated with certain substances to ensure their fire resistance and strength.

Floor installation and roof construction

Quite often, when building a house from beams, they use cheap material like. But the roof in such a house should not be of poor quality, which means you cannot skimp on this element. It can be of any type, it all depends only on the rafter systems and the type of roof. Boards must be installed on each section of the roof. 10*4 cm boards are usually used for braces and racks, and 15*4 cm for rafters.

After erecting the roof, you need to start. It is done in two stages: first they lay floorboard, and then intermediate ones, between them you need to lay a heat insulator.

Interior decoration

The final stage of the technology for building a house from profiled timber is finishing the house from the inside. This includes the installation of partitions and frames, door frames, lay the rough flooring, on which the insulation will then be laid. At the end we finish it all with a finishing coat. In addition, all communications are laid - water supply, electrical, sewerage and heating.

Technology for assembling a log frame for a house or bathhouse

Organization of a workplace for assembling walls

To ensure the work progresses, the beams are laid out in a stack at a distance of 5-6 meters from the building on one or, better yet, both sides. Each layer of beams in a stack is laid on spacers made of boards.

Next to the stack will be equipped workplace for marking and cutting beams. A variant of such a workplace is shown in the figure.

It is convenient to mark the timber using a template at a height of 0.9 - 1.1 meters in the marking area, node A in the figure. After marking, the timber is lowered onto low pads into the cutting area. In this position, it is convenient and safe to cut the timber with a chain saw.

The cut timber is lifted onto the wall. To facilitate lifting, slopes are arranged - inclined bars, which rest with their upper end on upper crown log house The timber is moved along the slopes using a rope.

Wedge-shaped stops are nailed to the slopes, which make lifting the beam safer. In addition to safety, the stops allow you to get by with little force. Even one person can, if necessary, lift the beam, fixing it with stops at intermediate points.

It is most convenient to carry out work on assembling a log frame from timber with a team of four people. You can work together, but the work will just go slower.

Scaffolding is constructed to install the upper rims of the log house and the roof.

Three-tier scaffolding on the gable of the house. 1 — extreme racks; 2 - L-shaped scaffolding stand of the first tier on the side facade; 3 - flooring; 4 — central racks; 5 — cruciform braces (shown conditionally); 6 - bosses

The assembly of the upper crowns of the log house is carried out from the level of the first tier. The flooring of the first tier is laid on L-shaped racks, pos. 2 in the picture. The racks are installed around the walls of the house and attached to the walls using bosses, pos. 6.

At the stage of constructing the roof (attic), on the facades where the installation of pediments is necessary, scaffolding has to be made in three tiers. To construct scaffolding racks, boards 50 x 150 are used. mm. Flooring is made from the same boards.

Working from scaffolding is more convenient, faster and safer than from ladders - don’t forget about this.

Marking beams for wall assembly

Practical construction experience shows that it is not realistic to keep in mind the sequence of marking the elements of corner joints.

Before starting work, draw a diagram of the assembly of the walls of the house, which indicates: the serial number of the crown, the type of connecting element at the ends of the blanks, the position of the openings in the wall.

An example of a house wall assembly diagram is shown in the figure:

Scheme for marking corner joints of timber and joints of parts of longitudinal walls, for a house with overall dimensions 6x9 meters. A And WITH- longitudinal walls; D And B- transverse walls; E- internal wall made of timber - partition; 1 - joints of beams.

For the house shown in the diagram, each crown consists of 7 pieces of beams ranging in length from 3 to 6 m.

The crown of the longitudinal wall consists of two parts: the main beam of a standard length of 6 meters and an extension of 3 meters. On one crown, long beams are laid on the left, and extensions on the right. On the next crown, laying begins in in a similar manner, but on the right.

The parts of the crown of the transverse wall and the partition are made from one beam of a standard length of 6 meters.

To eliminate cold bridges in external walls, the joints of the beams of the longitudinal wall, item 1, are made by making vertical cuts “into the floor of the tree” with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. The timber in the corners of the crowns is connected into a dressing with a root tenon (see below for more details).

How to correctly and quickly mark tenons, grooves and other profiles, ensure identical dimensions of lumber blanks?

The easiest way to do this is using templates. The template is placed on the beam and the outline of the template profiles is transferred to the surface of the beam with a marker.

It’s more convenient, faster to mark and it will be fewer errors, if the template completely follows the contour of the part and has the same length as the part being marked. I placed the template on the timber and immediately transferred all the dimensions and profiles to the workpiece.

For our example, we will need to make seven templates, corresponding to the number of parts in the crown. One template marks two mirrored wall parts.

If you think about it, the number of templates can be reduced. Let's look at how to make universal templates for marking parts of the longitudinal walls of a house (see the wall assembly diagram above).

Two templates (highlighted brightly) yellow) for marking the beams of longitudinal walls. 4 — groove for the main tenon; 5 - groove for tenon interior wall; 6 - sample; 7 - finishing beam.

The picture above shows the template for marking the main beam in the crown, in which the extension is located on the right. On the wall marking diagram, these are crowns A1, A3, A5 and C1, C3, C5.

Bottom template serves for marking the main beam in the crowns with extension on the left - A2, A4, A6 and C2, C4, C6.

The templates are the same at first glance, but differ in that the grooves, item 5, for connecting to the partition, are located in different places templates

The same templates are used to mark the parts of the extensions. To do this, on the templates at points b And With through holes are drilled, and at points A And d cuts are made.

To mark the extension, the template is placed on the beam and points are made on the surface of the workpiece through holes and cuts.

Remember this technique when making holes in the template. This will help you create universal templates in many other cases.

The templates are made from planed inch boards.

As a result, we manage to reduce the number of templates from seven to three (2 for longitudinal walls and 1 for transverse walls). Two longitudinal templates (right and left) provide the ability to obtain blanks for longitudinal walls, and one transverse template allows you to prepare parts for transverse walls and partitions.

Now let's look at how templates are used. To mark the first beam of the crown (for example, starting from the left), the left template is laid on the beam and the end of the template on the left is outlined with a marker, then two grooves and, finally, a recess for the connection “into the floor of the tree”. The marked timber is transferred to the cutting site, where unnecessary fragments (it is better to mark them out)
hatch) are cut with a chain saw.

How to mark parts with spikes? Obviously, the tenon and groove are elements of the same unit, which means they must match each other in size and location. In a part with a tenon, a tenon is marked in place of the groove.

If the groove dimensions are 5×5 cm, then the spike should have dimensions - 4.5 × 4.5 cm. The gap is filled with inter-crown insulation.

The template profile is transferred to the upper edge of the beam. The markings are transferred to the vertical edge of the beam using a square. Accurate cuts are made using these markings.

How to assemble smooth walls from timber of different widths

The technical conditions (TS) for the manufacture of timber allow deviations in the size of the timber in one direction or another from the standard value specified in the documents.

If the purchase documents indicate standard sizes timber, for example, section 150x150 mm. and length is 6 meters, then the actual dimensions will differ from the standard.

Each beam in a batch of timber brought to the construction site will differ from the dimensions indicated in the documents by several millimeters. The cross-sectional dimensions and length of the bars will be different.

The variation in sizes must be taken into account when developing templates, marking timber and assembling walls.

How to assemble smooth walls if the beams are different in width and length?

b— minimum beam width; delta b- the difference between a narrow and wide beam.

Obviously, using timber of different widths, you can make only one surface of the wall flat - either from the outside or from the inside of the building.

If they want to make the outside wall of the house smooth, then All beams in the wall are aligned along the outer edge. Then, inside the house, wide beams will protrude from the wall by the amount of “delta b"(the difference between narrow and wide bars). Alignment along the outer edge leads to an increase in gaps in the corner joint of the beams (see figure).

If the beams in the wall are aligned along the inner edge, then the “steps” from the protruding beams will already be on the outer surface of the wall. The outside of the wall is usually sheathed. And if you chamfer the outer edges of the timber, then the steps on the wall will be invisible even without cladding. Corner connections the beams are more dense and “warm”.

How and with what to connect the crowns of a log house

Each crown of the log house is connected to the lower crown with metal or wooden dowels. The dowels are placed at a distance of approximately 250-300 mm from the end of the beam and then every 1-1.5 meters of the length of the beam.

Each detail of the crown is secured with at least two dowels. The length of the dowel must be at least 1.5 times greater than the height of the beam.

cm., pos. 1.

Round steel dowels with a diameter of 6-8 mm.- pins with a pointed end or nails (6x200-250 mm), simply hammer into the beams of the crowns, option a in the picture.

The upper ends of dowels made of any material must be buried into the timber by 2-4 cm. If this is not done, then when the timber dries and the log house shrinks, the dowels will be higher than the timber and will lift the upper crown. A large gap forms between the crowns.

For the same reason Driven pins cannot be made from reinforcing steel. The corrugated surface of such dowels will keep the crown beams from moving when the log house shrinks, even if the dowel is buried into the timber. The crowns will simply hang on such dowels.

Small-diameter steel hammer-in dowels cannot always provide the necessary wall rigidity, especially with long wall spans. Their use can be recommended for small buildings - for example, baths. To increase the rigidity of the walls of large buildings, it is necessary to install dowels of increased diameter.

Steel dowels with a diameter of 10 millimeters or more, as well as wooden dowels inserted into pre-drilled holes in the timber. The diameter of the holes is made slightly smaller than the diameter of the dowel.

When the dowel fits tightly into the hole, the rigidity of the wall increases, but the risk that the dowels will interfere with the shrinkage of the frame increases.

Wooden dowels with a diameter of 25-30 mm Convenient to cut from round cuttings for tools. Such cuttings are made from hardwood. It is recommended to chamfer the lower end of the dowel - it will be easier to drive the dowel into the hole.

You can cut dowels from a regular board into “inches” square section 25x25 mm. One end of the workpiece is chamfered. Such pins are driven into a hole made with a drill with a diameter of 24 mm.

The ribs of such a dowel, made of relatively “soft” coniferous wood, become crushed when hammered in, the wood becomes compacted, ensuring a fairly tight fit of the dowel in the hole.

How to properly drill holes in timber for dowels

The depth of the holes in the wall for installing dowels must exceed at least 4 cm. dowel length. Moreover, the hole must be free of chips.

For drilling holes in timber that are deep enough and large diameter, a low-speed electric drill (drill) is usually used. The passport of a power tool usually indicates what diameter of drilling in a particular material the drill is designed for. Given the large drilling depth, it is better to choose a drill with a power reserve.

To drill holes in timber, it is convenient to equip the drill with a stop, as shown in the figure.

The stop block is attached to the drill with steel clamps.

The stop, in the form of a wooden block, is attached to the drill, for example, with clamps. The stop stops drilling at the required depth, but the rotation of the drill does not stop after that. Continuing to rotate in one place, the drill clears the hole from chips, grinds in and then easily comes out of the deep hole.

It is convenient to drill holes for connecting the crowns in a beam that is already installed on the wall in the design position on the inter-crown insulation. But here it's usual A problem arises - the crown gasket cannot be drilled. The fibers of the spacer material simply wrap around the drill bit and clamp it.

You have to install the beam on the wall in two steps. First, the timber is mounted without a gasket and temporarily secured from displacement, for example, with nails. Drill holes for dowels. Then the timber is moved from the wall and inter-crown insulation is laid.

At drilling sites the gasket is cut out sharp knife . Then, the removed beam is put back in place, this time on the gasket, and secured with dowels.

Drilling holes in timber laid on a wall should be done while standing on a solid foundation - scaffolding, scaffolding, flooring. stand on narrow wall and drilling is dangerous. The drill can “bite” powerful drill will turn around and easily throw the worker off the wall.

How to make a straight wall from crooked timber

Some of the timber delivered to the construction site may be bent. The beam can have a curvature in one plane, or it can be twisted with a screw and become diamond-shaped in cross-section.

If possible, it is better not to use curved beams for the walls of a house or bathhouse. It is recommended to cut beams with curvature into smaller pieces and use them in other, less critical places.

A small amount of timber that has curvature in one plane can be used to mount walls. You should not lay such a beam into the wall with its convexity up or down, in the hope that it will straighten under the weight of the house - the beam will not straighten, even if it is placed in the lower crowns.

The curved beam is laid in the wall, straightening it in a horizontal plane as shown in the figure.

The crooked beam is straightened sequentially by fixing it with dowels

The curved beam is drilled, aligning it with the straight beam at the drilling points. After laying the inter-crown insulation, the curved beam is fixed with dowels at one end and, when unbent, is sequentially fixed with dowels at other points.

Unbending the beam does not require much effort. A lever and bracket will help make work easier

Inter-crown gasket - insulation, sealant

For cold protection, a gasket is placed between the crowns. Previously, moss or flax tow were used for this. Currently, special cushioning materials based on flax wool or flax jute are available for sale. The material is sold in the form of a roll of tape with a width of 20 cm.

A strip of cushioning material is laid along the entire upper edge of the beam in two or three layers and secured with staples using a construction stapler.

If the wall is not sheathed, then the gasket should be 1-2 inches from the outer edge of the beam. cm., otherwise it will get wet.

Some craftsmen lay the cushioning material in one layer and suggest caulking the joints after the frame shrinks, adding additional material to the voids of the joints. In this option we have less consumption of cushioning material.

The work of caulking joints is quite labor-intensive and tedious. It is better to immediately lay a thicker sealant, in several layers (three layers), to eliminate the need to caulk horizontal joints.

How to control the correct assembly of a log house

During the construction of a house or bathhouse, it is necessary to regularly check the correct assembly of the log frame. To do this, it is enough to control the following five parameters:

• Verticality of corners.
• The height of corners and walls.
• Horizontality of the crowns and upper edges of the timber.
• Straightness of walls.
• The quality of installation of inter-crown insulation.

For control of vertical angles The following method is used.

To control the verticality of the angle, a vertical line is applied on each side of the crown. 1 — bottom harness; 2 - crowns; 3 — control lines; 4 - base.

On each side of the crown, a vertical line is drawn at the same distance from the corner edge.

At correct installation For crowns, this line should be straight and coincide with the vertical. The verticality of the line is checked with a plumb line.

If deviations are found, the work is suspended and the cause is eliminated.

The height of corners and walls is measured roulette. The measurement is taken from the base horizontal line, which is applied to the strapping beam using a water level.

Horizontality of crowns and top faces timber is checked by level.

Straightness of walls determined visually by pulling a cord along the wall.

The verticality and height of the corners should be especially carefully and constantly checked. Deviations from verticality are eliminated, up to the replacement of the timber in the crown. The height of the corners is adjusted by increasing the thickness of the gasket between the rims in the sagging corners. Sometimes it helps if you tap a sledgehammer on a beam in a high corner.

The quality and thickness of the installation of inter-crown insulation is checked visually by inspecting the walls.

Window and door openings in a log house

From the second crown they begin to form doorways. The distance from the floor level to the window is chosen in the range of 70 - 90 cm.

Laying timber in crowns in the area of ​​openings has its own characteristics.

A - layout of openings in the wall, where: 1 - wall; 2 - door opening; 3 - pier; 4 - window opening. V — diagram of timber cutting, where c is the remainder of the cutting. G - option for constructing an opening in a log house with the installation of temporary fastening bars, item 7. d - option with installation of decks in the opening, item 6 - we immediately get an opening ready for installing a door or window.

In practice, two options are used for forming openings when assembling a log house.

One option is " G" in the picture. The opening is made in draft, only preparations are made to create an opening. The opening is not prepared for the installation of doors and windows immediately when assembling the log house. This work is left for later - usually done after the frame has shrunk.

This option allows you to speed up the assembly work of the log house. Beams must be installed in the opening to fasten the partition to the log house, item 7 in the figure. At least two such beams are installed in the doorway.

During the shrinkage of the log house, the piers can “lead” inward or outward. To prevent this, timber in the walls is fastened with vertically installed boards.

In another version - " d"in the figure, the openings are immediately prepared for the installation of doors and windows. To do this, install decks (windows) in the openings - vertical beam with groove, item 6 in the figure. The tenon of the wall beam fits into the groove. In this way, the partition beam is fixed from displacement. In this option, the openings are immediately ready for the installation of doors and windows.

Decks (jambs) traditionally serve not only to connect timber in the opening, but also serve as window slopes and window sills. To do this, they are carefully processed and chamfered.

Option for installing a window in a wall made of timber: 1 - finishing the window slopes; 2 - a vertical frame board with a tenon strip, fits into the groove of the wall beam; 3 — plastic window frame; 4 — sealing tape PSUL

IN modern conditions, during installation plastic windows and the installation of plastic slopes and window sills, decks (jambs) can be omitted. The beams in the opening are fastened like this. At the ends of the beams along the entire length of the opening, a vertical groove is cut out and a rail is inserted there, which secures the pier beams from displacement.

The length of the deck (plug) or slats should be less than the height of the opening by 5-7 cm so as not to interfere with the shrinkage of the log house.

Timber for home, bathhouse in your city

How to properly install windows in a timber wall

If the opening in the wall was made in draft form (see above), then the installation of the window begins with cutting out the opening under right size. To do this, a lath is filled along the edge of the cut, item 2 in the figure, and the beams are sawed off along the edge of the lath with a chain saw.

Correct installation windows in the wall made of timber. 1 - wall; 2 - rack; 3 - platband; 4 - window; 5 - window box; 6 - wall beam above the window; 7 — interventional insulation; 8 — shrinkage gap above the window and deck; 9 - window frames; 10 - wall beam (pier); 11 - deck; 12 - nail.

Then circular saw Spikes are cut out at the ends of the wall beams (piers). The deck, pos. 11, is placed on the tenons, pos. 10, with a groove. The joints are sealed with insulation. The deck is nailed to the wall beam with nails driven in at an angle, pos. 12. This way the nails will not interfere with the shrinkage of the frame.

A window frame is inserted into the opening prepared in this way, which is attached to the deck with self-tapping screws. Above the window box be sure to leave a gap, pos. 8, to compensate for the shrinkage of the log house. Gap size 5-7 cm. The gap is filled with soft insulating material.

An expansion gap must also be left above the upper end of the deck.

Openings are prepared in the same way and doors are inserted into the walls made of timber.

After completing the assembly of the first floor of the house, the log house is covered with beams of interfloor or attic (if the building is one-story) floor.

There may be structural element. And they can also perform an independent function.

The next page describes the structure of a broken roof of a house made of timber, where the floor beams simultaneously serve as an element of the load-bearing frame of the attic roof.

Watch the video clip, which describes and shows in some detail the technology for installing a log frame from construction timber.

The decision to build a house from timber is not made immediately or suddenly. It’s just that this technology, with a simpler assembly of walls, allows you to get excellent characteristics for housing: for the Moscow region, timber 195 mm thick is sufficient. With such a thickness of the external walls it will be warm, but to save on heating it is better to insulate it (10 mm mineral wool on the outside) and make a reversible façade. Then there will also be savings on heating.

Plasticity in processing is one of the advantages of wood

Which wood to choose

Coniferous wood is usually used to build a house. There are several reasons. Firstly, the increased content of resins, which are natural preservatives and antiseptics. Thanks to their presence, wood does not deteriorate for a long time. Secondly, affordable price. You can, of course, build a house from beech or oak beams, but the price will be simply exorbitant. Thirdly, the wood is soft and easy to process.

Of all the coniferous species, a house is most often built from pine beams. With good characteristics, it is relatively inexpensive. Houses made of larch and cedar are rarely built: they are too expensive. Spruce is even rarer, but for a different reason: it deteriorates the fastest, and is also difficult to process. So, regarding the type of wood, there is, in fact, no choice. 95% of it is pine. But you need to understand the type of timber.

According to the processing method, timber can be:

• Regular or solid, unplaned timber. Sawed from a single log, the cross-section is a quadrangle (square or rectangle).
• Profiled timber. It is also cut from a single log, but is then processed: tenons and grooves are formed with milling cutters - profiles with the help of which one beam is joined to another. The side edges are also processed. They come out of the machine already planed. The section is of complex shape. The side edges can be smooth, rounded, figured - with chamfers, the shape of a “lock” - numerous beards and notches.
• Glued timber. Outwardly similar to profiled, but assembled (glued) from several boards.

Let's look at the features of each type of timber regarding the construction of a house.

House made of ordinary timber

If earlier they said that they decided to build a house from timber, then they clearly understood the usual rectangular timber. There was simply no other one or it was too expensive: it was brought from abroad. Ordinary timber is the most affordable, if you take the cost per cubic meter. But, as a result of all the required measures, the cost of construction may be higher than from a profiled one. It's all about the characteristics of the material. They lead to significant additional costs even at the construction stage: when building a house from unplaned timber, inter-crown insulation is necessarily used. Its geometry is not ideal, and if this is not done, the blowing through the gaps between the crowns will be very strong. The second feature is that the surface of the walls turns out to be uneven and it is impossible to do without finishing the inside and outside.

In addition to laying the inter-crown layer, the delivered log house is caulked, additionally sealing the seams. You need not just one caulk, but at least two, sometimes more. And all because it is made from wood with natural moisture. In practice this has the following consequences:

Another feature of a house made of ordinary timber: the walls are uneven. To give them a “decent” look, they are either sheathed finishing materials, or polished. But grinding is a controversial undertaking: the inter-crown seal makes it almost impossible. Even if you manage to sand the timber, where should you put the seams?

So it turns out that the cost of the house may be higher as a result: to the cost of the timber, add inter-crown insulation, material for caulking and the work itself (and it is not cheap), the cost of external and internal finishing. Please also note that they deliver moldings to your site - bars of the ordered length. The bowls are cut on site. This means that the qualifications of carpenters must be high. How warm the corners will be depends on how the cut is made. And in timber house It is the corners that are the most problematic places.

Features of profiled timber

When looking at profiled timber, the first thing that catches your eye is its almost ideal geometry and smooth surfaces. At least that's how it should be. At good quality execution, no finishing is needed: the wall immediately turns out even and smooth, even immediately ready for painting.

The second, also quite obvious feature, is that due to the fact that the edges that join two profiled beams have recesses and protrusions (locks), there cannot be through gaps. Manufacturers of profiled timber say that you can lay walls without inter-crown insulation: it will be warm anyway. But few people listen to them. They put in at least thin insulation. Some people use a thin backing for laminate, others use self-expanding tape for installing plastic windows, as well as jute tape and similar materials.

In the photo, by the way, the most common profile among developers lately is the “comb”. It can have a “tooth” of different heights and widths, and everyone loves it because, in theory, it is impossible to “blow through” it. However, even here they play it safe by installing insulation.

Several typical timber profiles (the two on the far right in the picture are laminated timber, but the exact same profile is made from solid wood)

In general, there are a lot of profiles. Some of them are in the photo. When choosing a supplier, you need to pay attention not only to the shape of the locks, but also to how they are made. The match in any pair should be maximum.

Having decided to build a house from timber with a profile, you need to decide on its humidity. Profiled timber can be of natural humidity (cheaper), or it can be chamber-dried with a humidity of no more than 14-16%. The features of lumber with natural moisture have already been considered, now let’s talk about chamber drying. The enterprise installs large drying cabinets, into which the finished profiled timber is loaded. There, in conditions of elevated temperatures, it loses excess moisture. At the same time, all the processes that usually accompany drying wood occur in the chamber: it bursts, it twists. Accordingly, part is scrapped, and the rest is sold at a higher price. The reasons seem clear.

If you decide to build a house from kiln-dried timber, you can start finishing earlier. The log house should still stand, but it will take 9-12 months. At the same time, new cracks rarely form; existing ones only expand. But it is worth keeping in mind that due to the high costs of drying, most often they only reduce the humidity to operational - 16-18%, while chamber-drying wood is considered to be 8-12%.

In any case, the cracks will need to be sealed. Caulking is needed in very limited quantities: first of all, you will have to look at all the corners and notches, if any (this is what the places where the walls are attached are called). Even a well-made bowl can dry out unevenly, causing a gap to appear. The beam can also turn out, which will also lead to the appearance or expansion of a gap. So periodic revision of the angles is also required during operation. Wood is a living material and will change all the time. Also, after a year, the sludge will have to be repaired too much. large cracks in the timber (without fanaticism, so that the tow does not open the crack).

The log house is assembled from numbered blanks with a molded bowl (numbers in blue at the ends)

The situation may be simpler with the assembly. If you just order lumber, you can cut corners from profiled timber, as from regular timber, on the site. But many enterprises, if they have a project, offer to take on part of the work themselves. With the help special program they make a layout on the timber: they make a list of “spare parts” from which the house will be assembled. Then, according to this list, blanks are cut out, with molded bowls. The blanks are numbered and delivered ready-made to the site, where the house remains to be assembled like a construction set: folding the beams according to the numbers marked on the plan.

This is convenient, especially if you are going to build a house with your own hands without construction experience. It is clear that the service is not free, but you can save on paying carpenters: assemble such a construction set highly qualified not required. Only in this case, whether your house will be warm or not depends on how accurately the bowls are made in production. Sometimes there are companies that make very low-quality cuts. You can see several of these in the photo.

Poorly made bowls - the blowing will be incredible, and caulking will not help much

In general, it has its disadvantages and its advantages, but compared to ordinary timber, profiled timber is more convenient in construction, and in terms of price it may even be cheaper if you count the finishing.

Glued laminated timber

From the name it is clear that it consists of glued parts. First, the lamellas are cut out, treated with antiseptics, dried to a certain moisture content, and then glued together. Due to the complex manufacturing process, the price tag for this material is approximately 2.5-3 times higher than that of conventional material and 80-90% higher than that of profiled material.

What are its advantages? Properly made, it does not crack, it does not shrink: dry material cannot shrink, and glued beads should have a moisture content no higher than 12-15%. Therefore, the finishing process, if the width of the timber is sufficient to compensate for heat loss, can only be reduced to painting or varnishing, since protective impregnation is carried out at the enterprise (should, in any case).

What does laminated veneer lumber and its profiles look like?

Another consequence of the lack of shrinkage is that after just a few weeks, the folded frame can be immediately placed under the roof, and after another few weeks, finishing can begin. This time is necessary for the bowls to shrink, and geometric dimensions laminated veneer lumber should not be changed. That is, there is a significant saving of time - everything, including finishing work, can be done in one season.

But are glued beads really that good? In terms of speed of construction, yes. But it has serious drawbacks. First: it is glued. This crosses out one of the main advantages of wood - environmental friendliness. Secondly, its vapor permeability is low. Many people build wooden houses precisely because of their ability to naturally regulate indoor humidity. Glued laminated timber lacks this due to the presence of layers of glue. Of all the advantages of wood, only its attractive appearance remains, but when finished with clapboard of the appropriate profile or a block house, it looks exactly the same. Therefore, the use of laminated veneer lumber to build a house is a very controversial issue.

Stages of building a house made of timber

A timber house has several advantages:

• The walls turn out to be light, which is why the load on the foundation is low, which means that the costs of its construction will be lower.
• Wood is an elastic material and it compensates for small movements of the foundation without compromising the integrity of the building. And this, again, allows you to make shallow foundations on well-draining soils.

The choice of foundation type depends largely on the soil, but most often it is done if there is no need for a basement, you can put a columnar one (for small buildings temporary residence - dachas, bathhouses, etc.) or or without). It is advisable to base the choice on the results of geological research. The process is described in more detail.

While the foundation is “setting,” the wood is prepared. All timber and dowels are treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Use compounds that do not form a film on the surface of the log. They will not interfere with the drying process. After preparing the timber, the actual construction of the house begins:

• Cut-off waterproofing. To prevent the wood from the foundation from drawing moisture, it is necessary to lay a layer of hydrophobic material. Previously, two layers of roofing material were laid under the first crown. Today there are more modern materials - coating and roll. You can use them, and in combination: coat them, stick them on a roll.
• Laying the trim crown. The timber is chosen without signs of blue, with a minimum number of knots. Preferably - from the middle part of the tree - with a maximum density of annual rings. It is additionally treated with impregnations intended for wood in direct contact with the ground. In order to ensure better preservation of the first crown, there is a trick: lay it on the waterproofing wide board, soaked bitumen mastic with working out. Another layer of waterproofing is placed on it, and the first crown is placed on top. All these layers are connected to the foundation with studs that are embedded in the foundation.
• Rough floor. The floor logs are attached to the first crown - a beam with a section of 150 * 100 mm. They are laid in increments of at least 70 cm. To make it more convenient to work, subfloor boards are laid out along the joists without nailing them.
• Assembling walls from timber. If a wall kit with ready-made bowls is not ordered, they are “slaughtered.” Cut out according to the template. A template is drawn from a piece of plywood, traced, and then cut out. A chainsaw is used more often, but a fairly high degree of proficiency with the tool is required: how warm the house will be depends on the accuracy of the cut. The shapes of the timber connection are shown in the picture.

We have already talked about laying inter-crown insulation: when using regular timber it is required, for profiled timber it is advisable in bowls, the rest is optional. The crowns are connected to each other by dowels - long round bars carved from a single piece of wood, dowels - rectangular in shape or pins - metal rods. In any case, a hole is drilled under the connection into which the connecting element is driven.

• The order of work depends on the type of roof chosen. When installing a simple installation, rafter legs are installed, but the order is different. A windproof membrane is rolled out and secured onto the assembled rafter system. In this form, the house is left to dry out for a long period of time.
• Door and window openings. To speed up drying and shrinkage, you can cut out window and door openings, install a frame or fixing strips. Door and window units Do not install until the end of the main shrinkage.

After a year or two, you can begin finishing work. All the time while the log house is settling, it is necessary to monitor the processes occurring in the wood. It is necessary to immediately inspect the corners and, if necessary, caulk them. Then monitor the condition of them, as well as the beam connections. If the dowels are driven in with great force, during drying the timber may hang on them, causing cracks to form. The problem can be solved by hanging around: take a huge wooden hammer and knock on the walls, causing faster shrinkage. The same technique is used if the house settles too slowly.

The video shows the main stages of how to build a house from timber. Despite the lyrical digressions, there is a lot of valuable information.

How to build a house from timber: photo report

They built such a house.

We ordered a wall kit for the project, and a strip foundation was poured under it.

They brought blanks with sawed-off bowls. They were carefully unloaded, while inspecting them for any defects. One beam turned out to be problematic - it was in the middle of the bundle and suffocated - it became covered with fungus. It was postponed for a separate “treatment”. The rest were covered with impregnation (Valti Pohusta) and stacked.

To avoid problems with fungus, a spacer is laid under each - boards lying across.

Rolls of insulation and dowels were also purchased. The Nagels were sent to bathe in the impregnation. IN old bath poured the impregnation and left them for half a day, then took them out and dried them.

The first crown - a half-beam - was laid on top of the waterproofing laid on the foundation. It has no grooves at the bottom.

It was pulled to the foundation with anchors to studs poured into concrete.

The first crown was laid. The one that was previously fixed on the foundation is often called “zero”.

Let's measure the diagonals. In order for the cups to stack without problems and to avoid distortion, they must be equal. The permissible distortion is a couple of millimeters.

Having aligned the diagonals, we drill holes for the dowels. To prevent holes larger/smaller than the required length, a wood stop was placed on the drill.

The walls are gradually growing. IN checkerboard pattern We fasten them with dowels.

In general, the timber is more or less normal, but there are problems with incorrectly sawed cups. When we lay the timber, we get a huge gap. The only way to combat this is to manually adjust the cups so that everything lies evenly.

It takes a long time to eliminate these inconsistencies, but gradually all the walls are laid out.

Walls made of profiled timber were removed

Let's start assembling rafter system. First, as is customary, the two outer trusses are installed, then everything else, according to the project.

The finished sheathing was sheathed with roofing felt. So let's leave the house to dry.

Inside we lay out the subfloor boards, nailing every fifth one. They will dry along with the house.

Video on the topic

Mistakes that are made when building houses from profiled timber are described and discussed in detail in this video. Very helpful. Look.

Land owners are increasingly choosing to build houses from timber. Additional benefit This solution is that, with a strong desire, each owner can build a house from timber with his own hands. By building such a house with your own hands, you get a high-quality, durable, reliable and comfortable home. The actual technology for constructing such buildings is extremely simple and understandable. The only skills you will need for the job are experience in handling a gasoline or electric saw.

A house made of timber looks very beautiful. But in order for it to be reliable, the timber must be treated with special means at the construction stage.

What kind of wood can be used to build a log house?

Before you start building a house from timber with your own hands, you need to choose the highest quality and suitable material for the job.

The main qualities of wood are strength and density. For some breeds, these indicators reach the level of most metals, so quite high demands are placed on houses made of timber with your own hands. The walls of the building must be durable and strong. In addition, they must provide good heat and sound insulation. But wood also has a number of disadvantages. The main ones are low fire resistance and a tendency to sedimentary deformation, which is especially pronounced during the first few years after completion of construction.

Coniferous wood is the best choice for building a log house. The material has a long service life and is resistant to rotting; it does not crack and does not exert a significant load on the foundation. It is important to remember that not only competent construction technology, but also the material chosen according to all the rules allows you to build a good house from timber with your own hands. So the wood should be as wear-resistant and dense as possible.

Solid or profiled timber?

The timber can be profiled or solid. To build a house, you can use both the first and second options. To choose a specific type of material, consider the main advantages and disadvantages of each.

Profiled timber for building a house requires the presence of a profile. It may have tenons and crown grooves. Such connections are installed along the entire length of the material, after which the surface is ground. The timber for building a house is supplied ready-made. The owner can only assemble the building from the received elements. Among the advantages of houses built from profiled timber are:

1. High resistance to deformation.
2. Relatively low costs for construction work.
3. Low complexity of construction work.

The material has a precise shape, allowing all construction activities to be carried out as quickly as possible. short terms and with the highest quality. Houses made from this material have a more interesting appearance and high thermal insulation characteristics.

The advantages of profiled timber include the smooth surface of the walls. They don’t even need additional sheathing, because... they look great anyway. Walls made of this material are protected from rotting, because... melt will not accumulate in them and rainwater. The profile is calculated so that precipitation does not get into the crown joints.

After shrinking a house built from profiled timber, you will not need to waste time and effort on caulking. This material provides excellent wind protection and high thermal insulation, because the crowns have connections of sufficient density for this.

House from solid timber has a low level of thermal insulation.

But profiled timber also has its drawbacks. Firstly, it does not tolerate negative atmospheric influences very well. Secondly, the material supports combustion. In order to increase bio- and fire-retardant properties, wood must be treated with special impregnations.

The natural moisture of the material leads to cracks appearing on the timber during the warm season. Therefore, it is best to immediately look for a material whose moisture content has been reduced to at least 20% by chamber drying. The thickness of the walls of a house made of profiled timber will not be enough for comfortable use. It will be necessary to perform additional external insulation. Once construction is completed, it will not be possible to make any additions or change the layout.

Study the features of solid timber. Despite the fact that it does not have the most presentable appearance, the material is still quite widely used in construction. The main advantage is the relatively low cost. When preparing wood, its natural moisture content is preserved, which eliminates the need for additional measures and reduces the duration of the preparatory stage.

Solid timber can be purchased at any specialized market. You can choose exactly what you need without any problems. From the moment of order to delivery to construction site on average it takes a week. The simplicity and speed of production of the material allowed us to reduce the time so much. One more big advantage Using solid timber to build a house means there is no need to use special equipment.

But it also has its drawbacks. These include:

1. More high costs for finishing work. To obtain a beautiful and complete appearance of the building, it must be covered with siding or clapboard.
2. When choosing timber you need to be extremely careful, because... Unscrupulous sellers offer bad timber.
3. Fungus may begin to develop on the material. The reason is natural humidity and failure to undergo special drying. You, of course, can treat the timber with special impregnations to destroy and prevent the return of the fungus, but this will require spending additional money and time.
4. The inter-crown seams are blown out very strongly. A house made of solid timber is characterized by a lower level of thermal insulation.
5. After shrinking, the wood cracks. To prevent such damage, the walls have to be sheathed on both sides.

Preparation of materials, tools and project

After you decide on suitable look timber, proceed to purchasing materials, collecting tools and drawing up a project. If you wish, you can purchase the material in ready-made form. All bars will be cut to your size. The material will already have grooves, and all you have to do is lay out the building like a construction set.

If you want to save money, you can prepare it yourself. If you choose this method, pay attention to the following factors:

1. The wood must be healthy.
2. Through and large cracks are strictly unacceptable.
3. The wood should not show any signs of beetle damage.
4. Before use, the material must be treated with antiseptic compounds.

The work of building a house from timber will require the use of a whole set of tools, namely:

1. Gasoline saw. An electric one will do instead.
2. Electric drills.
3. Level.
4. Measuring tape.
5. Hammer.
6. Axe.
7. Nails, screws, jute.
8. Electric screwdriver.
9. Hammer.

After preparing the materials and tools, start drawing up a project for a house made of timber. During this process, you need to accurately calculate everything necessary calculations. You can create a project yourself, there is nothing complicated about it. If you wish, you can contact a specialized construction company. The company’s specialist will make the project in compliance with all rules, taking into account seismic resistance and other important factors.

What should be the foundation of a log house?

Construction of a strip foundation.

Having prepared or received a custom project, proceed to arranging the foundation. A house made of timber must be built on the basis of sufficient reliability and strength.

When choosing the type of foundation, consider the following parameters:

1. Main characteristics of the soil on the site.
2. Estimated load on the foundation.
3. Design features.

A log house can be built on a concrete or wooden foundation. Most often filled concrete foundation, a brick plinth is laid on it, and the construction of timber walls begins on top of this structure. If you want to have completely wooden structure, you can make the base out of wood.

A timber house can be built on:

1. Deep foundation.
2. Shallow foundation.
3. Belt type support.
4. Columnar base.

In the vast majority of cases, a shallow or strip foundation is prepared for a house made of timber. A laying depth of about 50-70 cm will be sufficient.

Step-by-step instructions for building walls

After arranging the foundation, proceed to laying the timber. The most important thing is to decide optimal technology assemblies. The timber walls are laid out in rows. Each new layer is laid on top of the previous one until a wall of the required height is obtained.

The bars have special grooves, which ensure a tight fit of the logs to each other. The grooves are insulated with special thermal insulation. In order to increase the strength of the walls, it is imperative to use spikes to connect the beams.

A simplified version involves the use of untreated pine timber. The bars themselves weigh quite little, so you don’t even have to call in special lifting equipment for construction.

In progress self-construction For walls made of timber, it is important to take into account a number of basic requirements. First, all seams must be caulked. This will prevent the wind from blowing through the walls. Secondly, the walls themselves are treated with special impregnations to increase fire resistance and strength.

Roof, floor and finishing installation

Quite often, developers try to save money on building a house from timber. And they do this with the help of a roof, using some cheap materials, for example, ondulin. But saving on material when constructing a roof is categorically not recommended. This part of the house may have various options execution, it all depends on the rafters and roofing systems. It is recommended to equip each area using boards different sizes. For example, rafters are assembled from 150x40 mm boards, and 100x40 mm material is used to install braces and racks.

When arranging a floor and choosing a floor covering, they are also guided primarily by personal preferences. The only mandatory point is waterproofing the ceiling and floor. In particular, you need to carefully approach the issue of waterproofing basements and basements. The floor is waterproofed before screeding or leveling. In a wooden house you can use:

1. Roll waterproofing.
2. Coating materials.
3. Penetrating moisture protection.
4. Jellied compositions.

Plinths and basements can be waterproofed with your own hands without any problems. There will be no difficulties when treating the floors of other parts of the house. Choose the material that is most suitable for you and begin installing it in accordance with the technology.

Floor is one of the main components of the interior of a home. Aesthetics directly depend on its design interior design. Therefore, the choice of coating also needs to be approached wisely. On modern market presented large assortment floor coverings, namely:

1. Wood based coatings. This category includes parquet boards and parquet.
2. Cork covering.
3. Laminated panels.
4. Linoleum.
5. Floor tiles.
6. Carpets of various types.

Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Wood-based coatings are best suited for wooden floors: parquet and laminate are the most best option, this material is simple and easy to install.

As for more modern materials, then you won’t have any problems with their installation. Focus on your taste preferences and available budget.

Finally, installation work is completed interior doors, partitions and window frames. The subfloor is laid, then the selected insulation, the finishing component of the floor and the finishing coating are installed. The ceiling is being finished. At this stage, it is necessary to equip water supply, heating, sewerage and energy systems.

Exterior decoration is selected by the owner independently. If desired, the house can be left without any exterior finishing, if the appearance and quality of the source material allow this. If you want to get a different look, you can paint the house, cover it with siding, clapboard, or trim it with other available materials.

It is in this sequence that the construction of a house made of timber is carried out. By following the technology, you can get a reliable, comfortable and durable structure without involving third party specialists. Good luck!