The house is shrinking, cracks have appeared, what to do. Crack in the wall of a panel house - what to do for an effective solution


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Cracks in the walls of buildings can appear suddenly, and not only in old houses, but also in new buildings, panel and brick. This, of course, is not the norm, but there is no need to panic about it. It is better to sensibly assess the scale and understand how dangerous the destruction is in order to determine how to eliminate it.

All cracks are divided into two types:

  • Passive - if the cracking occurred instantly and does not go further, in this case you can eliminate the defect yourself;
  • Active - if a crack in the wall of a house expands or lengthens over time, there is a risk of the wall or building collapsing, in this case you need to call specialists from the specialized service, who will make a decision.

There are dozens of reasons why a building deforms and, as a consequence, serious faults or “spider webs” appear. They are caused by various factors, but the most common is problems with the foundation. It is also the most dangerous and difficult, since in some cases you have to redo everything anew, or somehow strengthen the foundation, and this is often not easy.

So, let’s look in detail at why cracks appear on the walls in various buildings, whether to worry, and how to repair them.

Why do wall cracks occur so often in new homes?

Cracking of new buildings is a fairly common phenomenon. 9 out of 10 houses may crack after a few years due to shrinkage, but, as a rule, cracks on the walls in a new house are small and passive, and after sealing there are no problems.

Experts do not recommend making major repairs in the first year and a half, and if your apartment is on the lower floors, and many people will be doing repairs on top, you should wait a little longer. The fact is that all the neighbors above will “add” weight to the structure with plaster and finishing, which means the house will shrink even more noticeably. Small cracks on the walls in a new house do not seem to be terrible, but they can lead to tiles falling off, wallpaper deformation and similar problems. It is better to wait with finishing than to redo everything again. In addition, small “cobwebs” under the wallpaper will not be noticeable, and it is advisable to repair it as soon as it appears.

Why did a crack appear in the wall of a house that no longer sits down?

In more lived-in and seemingly strong houses, cracks can appear completely unexpectedly, and usually they are what frighten residents the most. The reasons in this case can be very different.

  • Violation of construction technology, in which the brick wall was bandaged incorrectly. For many years everything is fine, and then a fault appears, which is also difficult to repair.
  • Violation of communication technology. It happens that first a house is built, and then communications are brought in, as a result of which the foundation is dug - this is one of the common reasons horizontal cracks in the wall.
  • The foundation can settle on its own, for example, due to an incorrectly calculated load or insufficiently competent design without specialized calculations. Owners of private houses often suffer from this because they do not conduct geodetic surveys, do not study the soil characteristics, and choose the wrong type of foundation. Causes of cracks in walls can also include improperly placed sand under the foundation, or groundwater not taken into account during construction.

Why did a crack appear on the wall of the old house?

In old houses that have stood for decades without problems, sudden cracking can occur due to new construction taking place nearby, digging a pit nearby, or vibrations occurring when installing piles or re-laying a road. Often problems arise due to unsuccessful, ill-conceived redevelopment, when the new owner demolishes load-bearing supports, or illegal construction of basements and subfloors, as a result of which the load shifts and the foundation suffers. A crack in the outer wall of a house also occurs due to the fact that the mortar can crumble over time, and if floors were added to the house or it was extended, the problem can become critical.

Problem with a crack in the load-bearing wall at the base of the building

Another common answer to the question of why cracks appear on walls is ill-conceived redevelopment, especially on the ground and first floors. This happens when residential apartments are converted into non-residential buildings, shops or service establishments are installed, and at the same time load-bearing walls are affected. The load on the remaining ones is greater, and the house is destroyed from the inside, and the residents of the upper floors are usually the first to notice the problem.

It is usually impossible to resolve the issue with the owners of the premises, so if cracks appear on interior walls oh, and even if there are offices or retail premises below, it is necessary to contact the relevant authorities to check the condition of the building.

Types of cracks in walls

You can try to determine the cause of cracking yourself, focusing on the direction of the fault: vertical, horizontal, in the corner. In brick walls, the direction may be broken, but the general trend is usually visible.

  • Vertical cracks. In the middle part of the building, thermal deformation may occur if there is a problem with expansion joints. In places of supports and beams - due to overloading of the walls (this is very dangerous). The reason may also be a weak foundation, as a result of which one part of the building settles differently.
  • Horizontal cracks on the wall of a house can be caused by subsidence of the foundation in its central part, and moisture entering the walls and foundation. They are less dangerous for the structure as a whole, but it is necessary to check the quality of the insulation. The causes of horizontal cracks in the wall are usually less dangerous, and the building collapses more slowly than with vertical ones. But it is also more difficult to fasten the structure; serious measures may be required to correct the situation.
  • In the corner of the wall, destruction can occur due to flooding of the foundation; this often happens when moisture drips from the roof into this corner. Microcracks are usually harmless, although they are more difficult to repair.

In any case, if there is a crack in the wall of the house, you should call specialists who will determine the cause and scale of the problem.

What kind of cracks in the walls of a house are dangerous?

A fine web of cracks is generally not dangerous, no matter where it is located. But in any case, it is better to control this process.

To determine the danger, that is, the future divergence of the wall, various beacons are used. IN living conditions To control a wall crack inside a house, you can use paper or plaster, which is applied to the crack at different ends, and possibly in the middle. If the line is broken, you will need to apply beacons to all areas. Be sure to write down the installation date next to it.

It happens that it is not possible to install a beacon on an external wall yourself if a fault occurs on high floors. In addition, plaster and paper simply will not withstand weather conditions, and a gypsum beacon can generally crack due to temperature changes. There are other options for beacons, which are available to specialized specialists, and are suitable for external monitoring.

  • If over the course of 8-12 months a crack in the outer wall of a house or inside it has not changed or enlarged, it can be considered passive, stable, and can be repaired.
  • If the beacon is deformed or destroyed, be sure to call specialists, this means that the process is active and measures need to be taken.

Crack in the wall of a house: what to do and how to repair it

There are many ways to solve the problem, and the choice of a particular one depends on the characteristics of the fault and its development.

Keep in mind: if a large crack in the wall quickly spreads and the beacons are destroyed, you are unlikely to cope on your own; you may have to fasten the house with metal plates, raise the building to adjust the foundation, strengthen it, put supports instead of load-bearing walls, etc.

Crack in the outer wall

Small stable cracks are cleaned of plaster and finishing, a deep penetration primer is applied, and the entire crack is covered with a putty mesh so that it reliably covers the edges. Putty is applied on top, which is better reinforced, as it will withstand temperature changes and exposure to weather conditions.

Cracks in the brick are sealed using a metal mesh for plaster, which is secured with bolts. A layer of mortar (cement + sand) is applied to it.

A large crack in the wall is filled with polyurethane foam, but first you need to widen and clean it, perhaps rinse it with water and dry it so that more solution gets inside. There are various nozzles for the cylinders, so you can seal even complex bends.

Cracks in concrete are also cleaned, blown out with foam and sealed cement-sand mixture.

Crack in the corner of the wall

It especially often occurs at the joints of slabs, and if it is a corner of the house, then it can blow noticeably from it. It is sealed either with polyurethane foam and then plastered, or a system of metal plates is used; the entire house, if the problem is serious, or part of it can be pulled together.

IN multi-storey buildings you have to do everything from the inside, or order insulation along with sealing cracks. If the crack is large, it must be deepened and thoroughly cleaned, preferably with a construction vacuum cleaner, or at least with a brush, and the foam is applied to the primer that has not yet dried.

Wall cracks inside the house

The fine cobwebs that have formed as a result of the shrinkage of the new building can be easily covered up: you will need a putty mesh and a deep penetration primer. A primer is applied to the cleaned wall with the coating removed, covered with a mesh, and sealed with putty. Then, after drying, the surface can be rubbed and painted, or covered with wallpaper. It's better to wait a little to make sure the problem doesn't happen again.

If a crack appears on the wall of a concrete house, it needs to be widened, creating angles of 45 degrees, and well primed. Sealing is carried out either with concrete mortar or sealant. The sealant is better because it is a little “rubbery,” which means that future movements will be compensated and the crack will not expand. Do not use silicone-based sealant, as nothing sticks to it and it will be difficult to paint over or wallpaper it later. A crack in the wall of a house can also be sealed with any cement-based mixtures, for example, tile adhesive, or plaster. You can use an emulsion to which cement is added, or there is even more budget option– PVA glue and cement. This mixture can be applied with a spatula, and special guns are used for the sealant to help squeeze it out of the tube. The remaining mixture is removed with a spatula flush with the wall.

Cracks in a plasterboard wall are usually caused by excess moisture, dampness, or improper installation. If flooding occurs, the sheets need to be changed; in other cases, you can save the situation using a special putty for drywall, or use acrylic (sold in the same tubes as sealant). Another option is to glue fiberglass; it is more reliable, although more expensive and labor-intensive. All these methods can only be used if the plasterboard sheet is properly attached to the wall, if it does not wobble, otherwise the sheet itself needs to be changed.

Vertical and horizontal cracks on the wall of a brick house are repaired in various ways, depending on the depth and nature of the fault. In any case, if the crack is active, there is no point in sealing it using simple methods, since it will continue to grow. Repair only makes sense when the fault has stopped and been stable for several months. Small cracks on internal brick walls are sealed with cement mortar, but if the crack is larger than 7-10 mm, you need to widen it with a hammer (for better adhesion of the mortar) and seal it with a mixture of cement and sand. A crack larger than 10mm requires professional intervention, regardless of whether it is expanding or not.

Crack in the wall of a house: what to do if the wall is load-bearing?

You can repair cracks yourself only if the crack is small and does not expand. In this case, the same technologies are used as when repairing small damage in a brick wall. But it is important to understand that a fault in a load-bearing wall can lead to the collapse of the entire building, so it is worth contacting specialists. They will check the condition of the building and find out why the cracks in the wall appeared in the first place: perhaps the neighbors did a redevelopment somewhere, or something happened in the basement of the building, and it urgently needs to be strengthened, water pumped out, the roof raised and the load reduced.

A crack in a load-bearing wall is always very dangerous, so there is no point in delaying it, especially if it is active and expanding. You can identify a dangerous fault within a day or two by installing a simple plaster or paper beacon and checking its safety and absence of deformation. In any case, it's better to be safe.

Through cracks in the walls

Most dangerous look cracking, in which the building can be considered unsafe. There are many reasons for this phenomenon, but most often there are problems with the foundation or extension, or construction work ongoing nearby.

To seal through cracks in the walls, a lime-cement mortar is used; if the crack is large, brick fragments can be added to it. Formwork may be needed to hold the mortar in place until it hardens completely.

Sometimes they use metal plates made of durable material, and at least three strips will be needed, sometimes more. They are secured with bolts and dowels. After fixing, a specialist’s decision is required - if a crack appears in the wall of the house, then the problem is already quite serious. The crack can be repaired from the inside with polyurethane foam, but in any case, the cause must be eliminated.

Conclusion

If a crack appears in the wall of a house, assess its scale and danger, visually (in the case of “cobweb” cracks) or using a beacon. For sealing different types Various materials and technologies are used on walls, but if the crack grows or is large in itself, it is better to consult with specialists. Minor repairs can be carried out independently, but only if the fault is stable and there is no reason to believe that in the future cracks in the walls of buildings can lead to emergency situation.

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Cracks in the house - causes, methods of elimination

A crack may appear on the wall of a house at any moment, and the owners of the building immediately wonder how dangerous this phenomenon is. Experts distinguish between two types of cracks – passive and active. And if in the first case the defect in question can be “removed” with your own hands, then in the second case you will have to involve professionals in the work. But first you need to understand what factors provoke the appearance of cracks.

Contents: Causes of cracks in a house How to determine the level of danger of cracks in a house Methods for eliminating cracks in a house - How to eliminate a crack in a house from the inside - Eliminating a crack in a house from the outside of a wall What to do if a crack in a house diverges Prevention of cracks in a house

Causes of cracks in the house

It is believed that in the first five years after the construction of a house, cracks appear on the walls in 90% of cases - experts call this natural shrinkage, which does not pose any danger. But it also happens that the house is many years old, it is quite lived-in, all structures are regularly repaired, but cracks still appear. What is the reason for this phenomenon?

Firstly, cracks in the house may appear due to violations in the technology of constructing the walls themselves. For example, if the dressing of brickwork was carried out incorrectly.

Secondly, the phenomenon in question on the walls of a house may be caused by non-compliance with the sequence of construction work. For example, communication systems (water supply, sewerage) are often installed after the house has been built - the foundation has to be excavated, which negatively affects its quality characteristics.

Thirdly, settlement of the foundation often occurs - for example, due to compression of the foundation soil or too much pressure from the house on the foundation. This is possible if the construction of the foundation was carried out without preliminary calculations and design. The most common mistakes:

  • During the construction of the foundation, geodetic surveys were not carried out, the nature of the soil was not studied;
  • the ground resistance taken as a basis was erroneous and greatly overestimated;
  • geodetic surveys on construction site were carried out in the summer - the level of groundwater rise was not calculated;
  • a mistake was made when choosing the type of foundation - for example, instead of a columnar one, a linear one was laid;
  • calculations of the depth of the foundation and its thickness were not made - usually data from past construction projects are taken as the basis for these parameters;
  • violations of laying technology sand cushion under the foundation - for example, insufficient layer thickness or poor compaction of sand.

Please note: cracks in the house old building may also arise due to structural changes in the building. Often, owners install a subfloor in a foundation that is not intended for this purpose, and the result will be displacement/shrinkage of the foundation base.

When even a small crack is detected, the main question arises: is it dangerous? Checking this is quite simple - you need to install a control beacon and observe the “behavior” of the crack for a long time. Professionals install special control beacons such as plate ones, which must be registered with the supervisory authorities. At home, when solving the problem yourself, you can use one of the following methods:

  • stick a strip of paper onto the crack indicating the installation date;
  • prepare a gypsum solution and place a strip of it on the crack.

And then all that remains is to wait and periodically check the status of the control beacon. It may be several months before any conclusions can be drawn - experts say that the crack needs to be monitored for 8-12 months.

How dangerous it is will be shown by a break in the control beacon - if there is such a phenomenon, then you will need to use complex technical solutions to eliminate the problem, if there is no break in the beacon, then you should not worry at all.

Methods for eliminating cracks in the house

Different cracks can be fixed in certain ways - you must first determine the level of the problem.

Please note: if the control beacon shows a rapidly expanding crack, then no DIY methods for eliminating cracks will help - they will only have a short-term effect. Be sure to invite specialists to solve the problem, otherwise the consequences will be the most terrible - the collapse of the wall or the entire structure!

How to fix a crack in a house from the inside

If small cracks are found on the wall inside the house, then eliminating them is as easy as shelling pears. All you need is a primer and a special putty mesh. You need to act according to the instructions below:

  • we clean the surface of building materials and finishing - the wall should be perfectly clean;
  • we use a deep penetration primer (with exactly this marking!) - we cover the entire cleaned surface;
  • glue the putty mesh onto the entire prepared surface;

Please note: a special mesh must be used to cover the entire area of ​​damage on the wall - even small sections of cracks should not protrude beyond its boundaries.

  • Apply a small layer of putty to the mesh and leave until completely dry.

Only after the putty layer has completely dried can you start grouting the surface and gluing wallpaper or other finishing materials.

Repairing a crack in a house from the outside of a wall

If small cracks appear on the outside of the house, you should proceed according to the same principle as in the above option. Procedure:

  • the area of ​​the crack is cleared of plaster or debris;
  • apply a layer of deep penetration primer and glue the putty mesh onto it;
  • apply putty. But! In case of eliminating cracks on external walls, it is advisable to use a special reinforced putty - it is resistant to negative impact atmospheric changes.

If the cracks on the outside of the walls of the house are not only in the plaster, but also extend to the brickwork, then you will have to put in much more effort. And in this case, the algorithm of actions will be as follows:


Please note: the metal mesh must cover the entire surface intended for applying a new layer of plaster. This way, the new plaster will not spread, which will allow finishing materials to be applied flawlessly.

This situation means only one thing - it is urgently necessary to take drastic measures to eliminate this problem. If you ignore all the recommendations of specialists and limit yourself only to the repair options described above, the result will be the collapse of the entire house. But even a beginner can cope with the work of eliminating such complex active cracks - the main thing is to strictly adhere to the following instructions:

  1. All the plaster on the wall at the location of the crack is knocked off - be sure to maintain a distance of 50 cm on each side of the crack.
  2. The crack is cleaned of mortar and dirt - this can be done with a metal spatula.
  3. The cleaned crack is filled with polyurethane foam.
  4. Fastening metal plates that will tighten the crack, preventing it from spreading further. The following points must be taken into account:
  • the plate must be selected from thick, high quality metal;
  • to obtain an optimal result, you will need to tighten the crack with at least 3 plates, and if the crack is long, then you may need 4 or 5 metal plates;
  • The plates are fastened using self-tapping screws, but using dowels.

After applying the fastening metal plates, you can continue working according to the usual algorithm - priming/fixing the reinforcing mesh/application new plaster.

But keep in mind that such measures serve as a temporary measure, since without a specific formation it will not be possible to determine the cause of the appearance of active cracks. Most often in the future it will be necessary to carry out correctional work on the foundation - it is either strengthened/strengthened, or the walls/roof of the house are raised and the foundation is completely replaced.

Preventing cracks in the house

To avoid having to deal with cracks in your home, you should familiarize yourself with the prevention of this phenomenon.

Firstly, if you are just designing a house, you need to consider several points:

  • geodetic surveys must be carried out - this will help determine the type of soil, the location of aquifers, and the depth of groundwater;
  • Even at the design stage, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of building a subfloor/cellar under the house - this will entail serious design changes;
  • It is imperative to familiarize yourself with the depth of soil freezing - the depth of the foundation will depend on this.

Secondly, when buying an old house, pay attention to the existing walls, invite specialists to assess their condition - often small cracks hide serious problems in the stability/reliability of the entire structure. One more point - there should be a blind area around the entire house - this will prevent moisture from entering the foundation, and therefore will prevent its destruction.

Thirdly, if you want to add a second floor to an already inhabited house, you should consult with professionals about the advisability of such actions. The fact is that each foundation is designed for a certain load and exceeding it leads to the appearance of cracks.

Cracks in the house are not a reason for panic, but just an impetus for action. Even an absolute beginner in the construction business can cope with the work described above, but it is much easier to prevent the appearance of cracks in advance.

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“diagnosis” of the problem and solutions

Cracks that appear on the walls are perhaps the most obvious indicator of the developer’s miscalculations. In this case, the seriousness of the situation is obvious even to those who are far from construction. What are the reasons for the deformation of brick walls and what should the home owner do in this case?

Let's start with the fact that not every gap in the covering of brick walls is a threat to their strength and load-bearing capacity. Immediately after construction, the house “shrinks”: this is a normal process that can lead to the appearance of minor (1-3 mm) cracks.

We are talking about surface cracks that do not increase over time. In this case, you need to wait until the house shrinks and carry out cosmetic repairs. Much more dangerous are through cracks that are visible from the outside of the building.

In such a situation, urgent measures are needed. To decide on a repair technology, you must first understand the reason for the appearance of gaps in the wall. They can be divided into five groups:

Errors during masonry: insufficient bond between bricks

It appears as a vertical gap along the entire height of the wall.

This problem is most often encountered when dressing rules are violated during the construction of a brick house, as well as when constructing an extension to a building whose shrinkage has already completed.

Wrong choice of materials

This may include the use of masonry mortars with high ash content, as well as the use of non-standard materials when constructing a reinforcing belt.

Design errors

Errors at the project development stage are one of the most common causes of cracks in brick walls. For example, incorrect assessment of the load on walls and foundations leads to a decrease in structural rigidity, concentration of the load from floors at individual points, uneven settlement and ruptures. Errors in calculations when designing a beam floor lead to the same result.

Mistakes when arranging the foundation

The most serious problems with cracks in walls arise from miscalculations made during the design and construction of the foundation. These include increasing the number of storeys of a house, the foundation of which is not designed for such a load, and using too “weak” concrete with insufficient frost resistance to fill the foundation. The cause of deformations can also be the use of cellular concrete when installing the foundation, insufficient depth of its placement (below the soil freezing level), errors in the installation of blind areas, or the location of the pit for draining sewage too close to the foundation.

It is also necessary to mention reasons that are difficult to predict in advance - a wastewater leak that changes the condition of the soil, the construction of a large facility near the house, strong ground vibration due to heavy vehicles.

Surface and through cracks: how to determine the type of deformation phenomenon?

Depending on the cause, cracks can behave differently - remain stable, increase with at different speeds, or immediately “tear” the walls. Until you have determined the type of deformation and found out its cause, there is no point in sealing the cracks.

“Making a diagnosis” in this case will not be difficult. To do this, you need to use beacons made of available materials - glass or paper. For example, a strip of glass is attached across a crack using plaster.

Observing the beacon will answer the question of whether the crack is growing or remaining unchanged. For the same purpose, you can use a strip of paper, which is fixed with silicate glue, or apply a strip of gypsum with a length of 10 cm, a width of 4 cm and a thickness of no more than 1 cm.

Beacons need to be checked daily for 4-5 weeks. If they remain intact within the specified period, then the solution to the problem will be a low-cost repair of the wall. If the beacons burst, this means that the process of deformation of the wall continues, and it is required major renovation. Choosing a repair strategy.

Ways to strengthen brickwork

The determining factor in in this case is the type and width of the gap.

  • Superficial, thin (up to 5 mm) and shallow tears. If we are talking about interior renovation, then gypsum-based solutions and putties can be used for this purpose. To seal cracks on the outside of the wall, you need to use moisture-resistant materials, for example, cement mortar. Before filling a crack with a solution, it must be jointed and wetted with water or a primer mixture;
  • Through wall cracks 10 mm wide or more. If a gap is more than 10 mm wide, strengthening the wall with a metal reinforcing mesh or simply sealing the crack with mortar will no longer be enough. In this case, a metal tie and locking connections can be used.
  • Dowels are inserted along the edges of the gap into which T-shaped anchors are driven. Another method recommended for repairing deformations on the outside of a wall is to drill holes along the edges of the break and install steel brackets in these holes, which are then coated with a cement mixture.

The described types of repair involve solving the problem with an average investment of time and labor. If the cause of cracks is a problem with the foundation, then repairing the crack should be preceded by restoring the integrity of the foundation of the house: this is a more complex and time-consuming type of work. If this is not done, the process of wall deformation will be impossible to stop.

Foundation repair in this case includes increasing the area of ​​its support on the ground and reinforcement.

The procedure includes the following types of work:

  • A trench is dug in the crack zone (width - 0.6 m, length - 1.5 m). The depth of the ditch should correspond to the freezing point of the soil. In this place, soil is removed from under the foundation to the level of the bottom of the dug trench - this is necessary so that the poured concrete mixture penetrates under the foundation;
  • Reinforcement is carried out using metal reinforcement (from 14 mm). Reinforcement rods (8-10 pcs.) are stuck into the walls of the ditch by 15-20 cm;
  • Holes are drilled in the old foundation for pieces of reinforcement, which are then welded to previously installed rods;
  • The ditch is being filled concrete mixture, after which it is processed with a vibrating tool to remove air and compact it.

The number of such ditches and their location are determined based on the results of inspection of deformations.

When placing several ditches in close proximity to each other, the ends of the reinforcement rods are welded together, which will strengthen the structure. After the concrete has hardened, you can begin to seal the crack.

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Cracks in walls cause and effect

Cracks in walls, to our great regret, are not uncommon; their presence is clearly observed in high-rise buildings, as well as on the walls of outbuildings and residential buildings in the private sector.

Defects in the walls of high-rise buildings are dealt with by specialized utility services, since this is a responsible and rather expensive undertaking. In this article on the website “Our House and Yard” we will look at the causes of cracks in houses and buildings of the private, low-rise sector.

With a high degree of probability it can be said that there are no houses without cracks. After all, cracks form not only from shortcomings and defects during construction, but also from the natural shrinkage of the structure, and even from its aging.

Cracks in the walls

The main and most common reason for the formation of cracks on the walls of low-rise buildings is a consequence of uneven deposition or destruction of the foundation. This happens for a number of quite different reasons, which we will discuss below.

Causes of cracks

Small (insufficient) foundation depth: quite common in old buildings, it can lead to mobility of the soil under the foundation due to heaving or other reasons.

Exceeding the design load on the soil: this usually happens when you want to save money by making a foundation that is too narrow on moving soil.

When pouring the foundation, low-quality building materials were used: low-quality concrete or gravel that does not match the strength or resistance to aggressive environments. The grade of concrete used for the manufacture of such structures should not be less than M 200.

All of the above mentioned reasons can be attributed to a violation of technology during the construction of the foundation. But there are other reasons that cannot always be taken into account:

  • unpredictable increase in level groundwater;
  • heterogeneity of the soil under the foundation;
  • destruction of the foundation body over time;
  • the slope of the site on which the building stands;
  • weather and geological factors also contribute to the formation of cracks in walls.

Violation of the integrity or lack of blind area around the house can also cause cracks in the walls of the house. In this case, non-monolithic or non-reinforced foundations, which are more prone to uneven shrinkage, suffer more.

An important role is played by the quality of the building material of the walls themselves, namely its behavior under the influence of external factors and loads: swelling, shrinkage, as well as vibration, which can activate the occurrence of cracks. These factors can be: sun, rain, wind and even the proximity of busy traffic.

Are wall cracks dangerous?

As a rule, most cracks, whether external or internal, are not dangerous. Even in fairly old houses, which are over 50 or even 100 years old, fresh cracks may appear.

The reason for these processes may be changes in the structure of the soil (due to increased humidity), construction work taking place nearby, or, as already mentioned, heavy traffic.

It’s the same in new buildings: the appearance of cracks in the walls is not that uncommon. Typically, small cracks in the plaster or cladding of a building appear in the first years of operation. These processes are associated with the natural shrinkage of the structure and can last from 3 to 5 years.

These cracks are usually “quiet,” meaning they remain in the condition in which they were found and can simply be hidden cosmetically.

Of course, we must not forget the fact that cracks in walls can be the result of quite serious problems: defects in construction or weakening of load-bearing elements. The latter happens for various reasons; it may not be a professional redevelopment or reconstruction of the building, or perhaps a banal washout of the soil.

If a vertical crack appears on the foundation, plinth and wall, growing in length and width, then everything is very serious, and simple cosmetic measures cannot be done. Also cause for concern should be windows and doors that suddenly close poorly, a noticeable skew of the porch, and, in general, curvature and cracking of horizontal lines on the facade.

To determine the level of danger, it is necessary to find out how the crack behaves. It is quite simple to make such observations: a control strip of paper is glued to the crack, but for more convenient observation it is better to apply a plaster mark.

Such a mark, the width of your palm, made of thickly diluted gypsum, is applied to the crack and observed for 3 to 4 weeks. If the crack breaks the mark and continues to grow further, then drastic measures should be taken to prevent further damage.

Control marks made of paper and plaster.

If you are not an expert in construction, or are afraid to do something wrong, then the most in a simple way will contact a qualified specialist who can analyze the causes and offer options for eliminating them. But in some cases, you can do this yourself.

Causes and characteristic wall defects

Most serious problems arise due to several factors that most likely were not taken into account when constructing the foundation. Defects of this kind are expressed in the settlement of part of the building, which leads to cracks in the external or internal walls.

Most often, these are errors at the design stage during research - any external factors are not taken into account.

Seasonal changes in the soil: provoke subsidence, leaching and frost heaving, which is characteristic of a number of soils (clays, loams, dusty soils), as well as changes in groundwater levels.

Incorrect or incomplete assessment of the strength of the foundation: the problem arises when, in various sections of the trench or foundation pit, filled holes (ditches), as well as rigid supports (natural or artificial boulders, concreted wells, etc.) are not identified.

Violations in the operation of the building: usually occur when flooding, and not rarely when the base of the foundation is washed out by domestic or atmospheric waters (burst of sewerage, water supply or destruction of the blind area).

Also, such design defects as omission of reinforcing inserts at the intersections of walls, lack of transverse connections, insufficient rigidity of the longitudinal wall, and in some cases, large expansion from the rafters can cause the wall to deviate from the vertical, and, accordingly, cause the appearance of cracks in the walls.

dimon-dom.ru

A crack in a brick wall is a sign of uneven settlement of the foundation


An unexpectedly opened crack in the brick wall of a newly built residential, public or industrial building is a signal indicating the occurrence of a pre-emergency situation, the causes of which must be found and, if possible, eliminated. A crack is the first sign of danger. Cracks along the vertical and horizontal seams of masonry walls of buildings occur not only in brick buildings: the recently very popular construction of houses from gas silicate blocks can have the same problems. This means that defects of this kind have common roots, independent of the size and material of the stones from which the walls of the building or structure are laid. The small width of the cracks does not affect the appearance of the buildings and the brick houses, photos of which can be viewed on our website, retain the strict geometry of the seams on their facades. However, when the width of the cracks exceeds 5 mm, such a defect becomes visible from afar. In addition to the negative visual impression, the crack is a conductor of cold, and water that gets into it and subsequently freezes can accelerate the destruction of the wall. Such deformations occur not only in multi-story buildings; for manor-type houses, a crack in a brick wall is also a common occurrence.
It is very important, when you see damage to the masonry, not to delay determining the causes of its occurrence and ways to eliminate it, but to contact specialists. It is difficult to detect wall deformation in cases where the projects of individual residential buildings include a curtain façade system that covers the surface of the brick wall, but the most dangerous are through cracks, which can be detected not only from the outside, but also from the inside. Causes of cracks in the wall A powerful impetus for the occurrence Wall deformations are caused by uneven settlement of foundations, which can be caused by:
  • unreliability or incompleteness of engineering and geological surveys. For example: a layer of weak soils, the mechanical characteristics of which are insufficient to bear the load from the building structures, was not discovered. Or: during field work when extracting cores, a violation of their structure occurred, due to which the strength parameters of the soil were incorrectly determined, which led to subsidence of the structure.
  • an initially incorrectly executed foundation or foundation. There may be poor-quality waterproofing and drainage, which led to the soil under the building becoming soaked, or a small area of ​​the foundation base, due to which the load on the soil was greater than permissible.
  • improper operation engineering systems buildings. In this case, a crack in a brick wall may occur due to water supply or sewerage leaks with subsequent soaking of the soil.

There is a possibility of groundwater appearing in the area, changing its course due to new buildings that have arisen along its path. Such situations often arise when developing large areas, when engineering and geological surveys are carried out not throughout the entire territory, but for each individual area separately. In this case, there is a risk of changing the direction of groundwater movement in an unpredictable direction.
A crack appeared in the wall. What to do? You should know what to do if a crack has already appeared in a brick wall. First of all, it is necessary to invite specialists who can find the causes of deformations and determine methods to prevent their further development. Also, from the moment cracks are detected, cement marks should be installed on them: in 2-3 places along the crack, small rectangles of cement mortar, several millimeters thick, should be made in order to understand whether deformation is continuing or whether it has already stopped. If the marks remain intact for 2-3 weeks, it means that most likely the subsidence has ended and you need to think about how to repair the cracks in order to preserve the appearance of the house and prevent the wall from freezing in this place. If the seals are cracked, then the deformations continue, and serious, expensive measures will have to be developed and carried out, including possible strengthening of walls and foundations. Most often, to eliminate the possibility of further soaking of the foundation soils, the following measures are recommended:

  • installation of reinforced adhesive waterproofing of the foundation and basement walls. For this purpose, you can use various weld-on roll materials offered trading network in a wide range.
  • repairing and increasing the width of the blind area, as well as installing a drainage system around the perimeter of the building, which will prevent soaking of the foundation soils with rain and melt water.
  • inspection and repair of pipeline joints running in the basement of the house and near it.

If these measures are not enough, then you will have to strengthen the foundation. One of the most effective methods of strengthening is the installation of inclined piles, which are placed under the foundation of a finished house and transfer the load from its weight to the soil, which has the necessary strength characteristics. After completing work to eliminate the causes of subsidence and prevent the possibility of its occurrence in the future, the crack in the brick wall can be sealed to its full depth.

postroika.biz

Cracks in the walls are one of the most terrible structural defects, indicating that the load-bearing elements have begun to move. There are 3 main reasons for cracks in the walls that cause this - collapse, blockage, or separation of the extension.

The deviation of walls outward from the vertical plane is considered to be collapse. Wave-like deformation or deviation along the entire plane is also possible. Often, when it falls apart, cracks form above windows and doors.

The collapse in terms of coverage can be complete or partial. For prevention, a screed is used, which should be applied around the perimeter of the entire house to prevent movement of other walls.

Conventionally, three types of camber can be distinguished: light, medium and strong.

Easy camber

With slight collapse, deformations are noticeable on the walls, a third of the height of the wall itself. In every second case, cracks appear at the corners of the openings.

The main causes of cracks in walls:

    Complete absence or weakness of the armored belt;

    Roof overload;

    Construction on old attic walls.

Most effective remedy struggle - a steel mono-clip mounted on corner type supports. Required tools:

    4 meters of steel angle;

    Meter pipe with inch diameter;

    4 meters of studs, 20mm thread, as well as nuts and washers for them;

    20 mm steel rod located around the perimeter of the building;

    Welding machine, paint.

Important! It is not advisable to use reinforcement due to its inadequacy and susceptibility to corrosion.

150 mm pipe sections are welded to the corner, the length of which should be 20% greater than the distance from the top of the wall to the top of the windows. A total of 4 such stops need to be made.

Installation procedure:

    By welding the rods, lashes are obtained for each wall, leaving a 20cm gap for tightening;

    It is necessary to weld studs to each end of the whip, with a free end length of 20 cm;

    The studs are placed in tubes, the lashes are welded together;

    Assembling the entire frame on the ground and then fixing the height;

    The nuts are tightened.

Important! Do not forget that such a structure will only support the wall. There is no need to try to use it to return the wall to its original position.

Average camber

Signs are similar to slight collapse, but extend to half the height of the walls. Cracks above openings appear in every 4 out of 5 cases.

The main reasons are a weakened armored belt, overloads, and a weak connection of corners.

For protection, a solid corner clip is used, similar to a mono clip. However, it extends to the entire height of the wall, and also includes three screed belts at once.

As an alternative to the circle, a 10x40mm steel strip can be used.

Important! Due to the high expected load, welds must be made as efficiently as possible.

Strong collapse

It is characterized by the characteristics of the two previous types, but with a doubled level. Deep cracks may appear on the wall or foundation.

The main reason is the deformed base in combination with signs characteristic of other collapses.

Repair is carried out by installing a corner frame in combination with a support or an entire support belt.

The support must have half the thickness of the foundation layer, but this value must exceed 400mm. It is desirable that they are in the same horizontal plane. In this case, a third of the length of the support should be underground.

Installation procedure:

    It is necessary to clean the foundation in the damaged area;

    In its wall, 18 mm are made with a depth and a pitch of 200 mm;

    16 mm pins are driven into these holes, the length of which is 160 mm greater than the thickness of the retaining wall;

    Reinforcement is tied to the pins;

    U-shaped clamps are made from it, corresponding in size to the base of the beam;

    Formwork is installed;

    Compacted concrete is laid;

    After 72 hours, the formwork is dismantled and a waterproofing layer is applied instead;

    The foundation is filled with soil.

In this case, the walls are completely or partially collapsed inside the building.

Complete blockage

The main sign is the blockage of three and more walls inside the building.

The main reasons are the weakness of the armored belt and violations during the construction process.

To counteract the complete collapse of the walls, a self-supporting steel frame with a through fastening is used.

Required materials and tools:

Installation sequence:

    We calculate the perimeter of the walls requiring reinforcement;

    We divide the wall into sections with a pitch of about 600-700mm, the distance from the corner is half a step;

    We use a hammer drill to drill through holes;

    Reinforcement is welded onto the plates at right angles, 100 mm longer than the thickness of the walls;

    IN drilled holes the anchors are inserted with the plate facing outwards;

    We mark the channel for the holes;

    Using welding, we make a hole in the channel for the reinforcement;

    We prime the outer side of the channel;

    We mount it to the pins;

    We scald the pins;

    The continuation of the channel is mounted in a similar way;

    After installation along the entire perimeter, the channel is welded at the joint. On top of it we place reinforcement linings;

    We are strengthening the corners.

For additional protection clips can be used suspended ceiling, otherwise the tire is closed using a box.

Partial blockage

It is observed when one or two walls collapse. Occurs due to excessive proximity to a busy street, or due to erosion by precipitation.

To eliminate this, a partial clip is used, which is manufactured in a manner similar to a solid one. The length of the interrupted corner is calculated as 1/3 of the wall if this value exceeds one and a half meters.

Annex department

The main sign is a crack in the wall that appears at the junction of the extension, which is accompanied by a moderate or severe collapse.

In most cases, this situation arises due to the fact that the extension is not tied to the wall of the main building.

To eliminate the problem, you should use a combination of a retaining wall and a through, semi-through or anchor cage.

To arrange any of the presented types of clips, you can use the above tips.

building.club

Repairing cracks in brick walls, how to get rid of cracks, photo video

Many people know the expression of the famous poetess Faina Ranevskaya that after a few years life gives cracks, which will grow over time if they are not patched up in time. So it is with a residential building, if a split or small crack appears on the load-bearing wall, then it is urgently necessary to solve this problem.

The very first question that comes to mind is “What to do if a brick wall is cracked?”

First of all, you need to consult with a professional builder, because a person who does not have even a minimal level of knowledge in the field of foundation construction and repair will find it very difficult to understand how to get rid of this problem once and for all.

Why does brick crack and how can you repair cracks in a brick wall, as well as in similar brickwork? These questions need to be examined from many angles. So let's get started.

Types and causes of crack formation

Today, construction companies offer revolutionary, strong and durable Portland cement, which has revolutionized construction materials. It is distinguished not only by its durability, but also by its instant hardening speed, which is perhaps its main advantage among its competitors in the field of reinforcing materials.

All experienced builders know that immediately after construction, the building does not immediately take its place firmly and for a long time in the main foundation, this process takes about five to ten years, and the cement mortar, on the contrary, very quickly gains its strength. So very big difference between the time of subsidence and settlement of the house can lead to the appearance of cracks and large splits, which will intensively tear apart the mass of load-bearing masonry.

Well, as for the solution of lime with the addition of sand, things are much simpler. It hardens quite slowly and when settlement of the foundation itself begins, empty or through voids should not appear in the walls. This strengthening technology is mainly used exclusively for the construction of new houses according to today's standard, and as time shows, in new buildings there are no problems with cracks and settlement of the foundation for a long time.

Builders - specialists divide cracks among themselves in brickwork according to the following characteristics:

  • Why they appear: deformation of the house structure, shrinkage or temperature wear of a residential building;
  • External and internal view of the destruction itself on the wall: Split, rupture, cut;
  • Direction of destruction: horizontal, vertical, inclined different angles;
  • Shape: curved, straight, closed or broken in half (that is, it almost does not reach the edge of the load-bearing wall).
  • Size and depth: on the surface of the wall and inside it;
  • How complex the repair work is, what is the risk of wall destruction: dangerous and non-hazardous;
  • Time since destruction: stable or unstable;
  • Size of the opening of the split or crack itself: microscopic (up to one millimeter), small (up to three millimeters), medium (from four to eight millimeters), large (more than ten millimeters), very large (from fifteen millimeters or more).

Several main reasons for the appearance of such destruction on the wall, of which there are quite a lot:

  1. Settlement or destruction of the soil itself. This problem may cause uneven natural combustion soil (strong and weak areas), incorrect and unacceptable load of the main foundation, leakage of a very large amount of runoff and polluted water into the soil. It is these reasons that can lead to the appearance of large indirect splits or to the formation of vertical cracks that can reach right up to the edge of the load-bearing wall, and so on.
  2. The soil on which the house stands is very hardened. This phenomenon can be caused by severe frosts, which can cause uneven lifting of the foundation. In particular, soil hardening is very dangerous for an unfinished building, the walls of which have not yet hardened and have not acquired the necessary stability. In this particular case, uneven and deep cracks may form near the walls, and when the soil begins to melt after winter, the opposite process may most likely occur - settlement of the foundation, which can lead to new damage to the load-bearing walls.
  3. New repairs to a load-bearing wall may be needed after a small building or room has been added, as the foundation may not be able to support the new, additional weight and may settle.
  4. Uneven and inconsistent loads on the foundation of the house. For example, if the house is built in the Art Nouveau style, then luxurious and long glazing (which is very often used in this architectural style) can alternate quite often with small blind areas of the house, which will lead to a large difference in weight and ground settlement.
  5. If the pit is located next to a building, then very high temperature conditions also have a detrimental effect on the soil, which in the future can lead not only to sedimentation of the soil, but also to its excessive looseness. It is for these reasons that medium-sized cracks can form on the walls.
  6. Extra load due to neighboring houses. On a common foundation, the zones of greatest stress are superimposed on each other and allow the soil to settle very strongly.
  7. The reasons may lie not only in the soil itself, but also above it. For example, collecting heavy building material in large quantities next to an unfinished building and already in the ground itself, additional loads and stresses can appear, and it is these that can cause very strong external settlement of the foundation and the appearance of large cracks and splits.
  8. Constant impacts on the foundation. For example, if you are driving piles on the territory of a residential building, you are constantly moving heavy vehicles, compressors are running - all this leads to the sinking of sandy soil and a strong softening of clay masses in the soil. The combination of all these factors can result in soil settlement and cracks in load-bearing walls.
  9. High temperatures can cause vertical cracks and splits in the walls of your home. Repairing cracks in masonry is mainly required for longer buildings that do not have expansion joints.
  10. Overloading of brickwork. In this case, cracks may appear between the walls and on the pillars. Such cracks can be identified by the characteristic closedness and verticality of their direction. Overload of masonry. They appear in walls and on pillars. A characteristic feature of crush cracks is closedness and a vertical direction.
  11. Various non-hazardous shrinkage deformations can be observed on the plastered walls of a house - these can be small or small cracks, which are very randomly scattered over the entire area of ​​the wall and are mostly closed, and the most important thing is that they do not reach the edge of the wall. They appear due to shrinkage of an overly thick plaster mortar.

Crack sealing technology

There are many ways to repair a crack in brickwork:

  • Can be installed brick castle or a lock with an anchor;
  • Reinforcement of walls using tension bolts;
  • Repairing a through crack with steel staples;
  • Carry out repair work in the area where the floor slab is unlocked;
  • Strengthen the cracked wall;
  • Make an overlay from hardened steel;
  • Install special brackets
  • Install the floor slab;
  • Cover the wall with a finishing layer.

Watch this video for more details:

Conclusion

Apparently, from the above, it can be noted that general condition houses from building bricks must be monitored very carefully. Since the sooner a crack or split is detected, the less time and money will have to be spent on fixing this problem.

Contents of the article:

Cracks in walls are a diagnostic sign of a change in the stress state of enclosing structures. The reasons for the appearance of these shortcomings can be very different, but the overwhelming majority of them are associated with deformations of the foundations exceeding the maximum permissible values ​​for load-bearing walls. Such damage can reduce the structural reliability of the building and its performance. When cracks are detected in the walls, they are inspected and the nature, location and cause of the deformation are determined. Based on these data, the necessary technical measures are planned and carried out.

Types and causes of cracks in walls

Wall cracks can be classified by dividing them into groups:

  • Due to: shrinkage, deformation, temperature, structural, as well as those arising from wear or weathering of walls.
  • By destruction: shearing, crushing and rupture.
  • Direction: inclined, vertical and horizontal.
  • By outline: curved, straight and closed (not touching the edges of the walls).
  • By depth: through and surface cracks.
  • According to the degree of risk: dangerous and not dangerous.
  • By time: stable and unstable cracks.
  • By opening size: large - more than 1 mm, small - up to 0.3 mm, hair - up to 0.1 mm, developed - up to 0.5 mm.
The main causes of cracks in walls can be:
  1. Uneven compression of soils. The cracks on the walls are inclined and reach their edges. By the size of the opening of the cracks and their direction, you can determine the type of settlement and deformation of the building, as well as find the location of the cause of the defect. In addition, precipitation can occur from uneven load on foundations, soil leakage into old pipes, soil damage during construction and for other reasons.
  2. Availability of extensions or superstructures. They cause a change in the condition of the foundation: additional compressive stress appears in the soil under the building, resulting in settlement of the foundation. In this case, the adjacent walls may have inclined cracks with a “downward” direction, and an “upward” opening. The same phenomena often occur when a partial superstructure occurs along the length of the building.
  3. Uneven load on the foundation along the length of the building. The longitudinal walls of buildings often have glazed areas of considerable size, extending into the blind parts of above-ground structures. All of them create different loads on the foundation, making its settlement uneven. With a large load from the floors on the longitudinal internal walls, settlement may also occur. Cracks appear in the corners of the transverse walls.
  4. Construction of a pit near an existing building. In this case, the building turns out to be located near or on the slope. Ground shifts affect the area where the foundation is located, and inclined cracks appear in the walls from the pit side. Sometimes the slope of the adjacent wall is associated with the threat of its collapse.
  5. Interaction of adjacent foundations. In this case, the stressed sections of the foundations overlap each other and increase the local compression of the soil. They have an inclination towards each other provided that the buildings are erected at the same time; if the buildings are built at different times, the inclination occurs towards the building that was erected later. An existing building on stilts, for example, can develop settlement and inclined cracks in the walls when a new building on a natural foundation is located close to it.
  6. Impact of surface loads. They can arise from storing industrial raw materials, building materials or products near walls. The impact of such loads causes compression of the soil and settlement of the foundation, causing cracks.
  7. Dynamic influences. These include the movement of loaded vehicles, driving piles, the operation of compressors and hammers in production workshops etc. Such impacts affect the foundation soil and can lead to the formation of cracks in above-ground structures. At the same time, sandy soils become compacted, while clay soils soften. As a result of such processes, foundation settlement occurs.
  8. Soil freezing and thawing. Freezing of the foundations can cause foundations to rise by heaving forces. This process is especially dangerous for buildings under construction, when their walls are light in weight and have low bending rigidity. The walls on which all other floors need to be erected receive numerous cracks, which negatively affects further work. The settlement of foundations when the soil thaws is greater than when it freezes, and the walls may receive new cracks. The presence of basements often aggravates the situation: external walls can be separated from transverse partitions. In this case, cracks occur along the entire height of the structures and can cause a violation of their stability.
  9. Temperature deformations. They can cause cracks if the building is long and there are no expansion joints. Damage in this case occurs in the middle part of the structure, the cracks have a vertical direction.
  10. Shrinkage deformations. Cracks resulting from their influence usually appear in the corners of wall openings in large-panel buildings and have a radial direction. Such damage is not dangerous. Small closed, randomly located or oriented cracks sometimes appear on plastered walls that do not reach the corners. Their cause is the shrinkage of a solution of high fat content.
  11. Wall overload. It leads to crushing of the masonry and is accompanied by the appearance of cracks in supporting structures, pillars and walls. The cracks are closed and have a vertical direction. They are the initial sign of wall failure and are extremely dangerous. Local deformations when overloading the structures of old buildings are manifested by cracks in the places of support of beams and trusses.
  12. Material wear. Periodic changes in air temperature and humidity affect the integrity of brick walls. Due to weathering, small cracks may appear on them over time. They are shallow and do not pose a danger to massive structures.
In addition to the above reasons, cracks may appear at the junction of old and new walls, depending on the order of masonry, etc. Such cracks are straight, open along their entire height and are not dangerous. Sometimes cracks may also appear at the junctions of partitions and ceilings. They indicate deflection of beams, settlement of the floor or shrinkage of the wall material.

Before you repair cracks in the wall, you should carefully examine them. When visually examining cracks, the depth of their opening, age, location and direction are determined. When damage to walls occurs at different times and for various reasons, their analysis becomes much more complicated.

For it you need to have documentation on the history of design, engineering geology, operation of the structure, location of underground communications and a detailed design. To visually present the results of the inspection, cracks are indicated on the drawings of internal walls and facades, then numbered indicating the beginning of their opening at a given moment in time.

Technology for eliminating cracks in walls

After diagnosing wall cracks and eliminating the causes of their occurrence, problem areas can be sealed in various ways.

Repairing stable cracks in a wall


Cracks of small depth can be eliminated by plastering using mortar. When mixing, add cement putty or PVA glue to it. Plastering should be carried out on a previously prepared area of ​​the defective surface. To do this, before eliminating a crack in the wall, the problem area and the area adjacent to it must be cleaned of destroyed fragments and dust, primed, and a special reinforcing tape applied to the crack.

Cracks of medium opening size are eliminated using a metal mesh. In this case, the destroyed wall covering must be removed, and the resulting solid base must be primed. Then along the crack you should drill holes in 30 cm increments for mounting dowels, insert them and secure the mesh with screws equipped with wide washers.

The mesh size of the metal mesh is 5x5 cm. If it is necessary to apply several strips of mesh to a large emergency area, they are laid with an overlap of at least 10 cm. The plaster solution must be applied to the wall through the mesh. After this, the surface should be slightly leveled, wait for it to dry completely and apply the finishing layer of plaster.

You can effectively repair cracks in walls using foam. During polymerization, it increases somewhat in volume, so its dried excess should be cut off with a knife, and then cover the problem area with any suitable finishing material: plaster, paint, etc.

Repairing unstable cracks in walls


It is not difficult to identify a progressive crack. To do this, you will need strips of paper that need to be glued in the middle, bottom and top across the crack. If after some time the strips break, you will need to look for and eliminate the causes of the defect.

The development of large cracks that have a significant opening can be stopped by installing a channel (anchor) or metal plates. The work is done this way:

  • First, you need to knock off the plaster from the damaged section of the wall, guided by the length of the selected plate. If it is 1 m, then the surface should be cleaned 50 cm on each side of the crack. The depth of the resulting groove must be equal to the thickness of the plate.
  • Its fastening is carried out depending on the material and thickness of the wall using dowels or long bolts. For the latter option, through drilling of the structure is performed.
  • The crack and grooves should be cleaned and filled with foam, and then the anchor should be inserted into the recess and secured with fasteners. It is recommended to install the screed system in three places in the problem area: across it near the end and beginning of the crack, as well as in its middle. After this, you need to fix the reinforcing material in the emergency area and perform plastering.
A similar operation can be performed using staples instead of plates:
  1. They can be made from reinforcement. After selecting the rods of the required length, their ends should be bent at a right angle by 15-20 cm.
  2. Then across the crack in several places it is necessary to make grooves so that the staples sit in them deeper than the level of the existing wall surface. For example, with a reinforcement diameter of 10 mm, the depth of the furrows should be 13-15 mm.
  3. The ends of the staples must be inserted into pre-drilled holes. Hammering staples is excluded, as this process can lead to expansion of the crack.
  4. After installing the required number of staples, you need to perform the standard procedure: cleaning the surface, priming it, reinforcing it and plastering it.

How to remove cracks in a drywall wall


Such coatings are characterized by small cracks. Defects in the form of cobwebs indicate that when finishing the walls, too much gypsum putty was applied to the gypsum board sheets or the thermal conditions were disturbed when drying using heaters and hair dryers. Vertical or horizontal cracks usually occur at the joints of sheets. The sources of such defects may be a weakening of the metal frame of the wall or the absence of reinforcing tape at the gypsum board seams.

You can get rid of the “cobwebs” only by removing the damaged layer and applying a new one; its thickness should not exceed 2 mm. If it is necessary to apply another layer, you need to wait until the previous one dries.

When the frame is weakened, sealing cracks in a gypsum board wall is very problematic. And if the coating is securely fastened, its defects can be easily eliminated:

  • Cracks must be cut at an angle of 45 degrees with a sharp knife.
  • The resulting grooves should be filled with gypsum mixture.
  • Place reinforcing sickle tape on top of the closed crack, then level the surface with putty and sand with an abrasive mesh.

How to repair cracks in a plaster wall


Before covering cracks in the wall, the peeling plaster must be completely removed, then primed and a new coating applied. Before performing this work, you should read the instructions on the packaging of the material. It indicates the mixing proportions and the recommended layer thickness.

You can hide existing cracks in the plaster using fiberglass. It will prevent the expansion of old cracks and the formation of new ones. Before starting work, deep grooves should be sealed with gypsum putty and a penetrating primer should be applied to the wall.

How to remove cracks in log cabin walls


Cracks in the walls of wooden buildings arise from exposure to moisture from the inner layers of logs or timber. The formation of such cracks can be minimized by compensating a recess, which is sawed along the entire length of the log to a depth of no more than 1/5 of its diameter.

Formation of large cracks in old wooden buildings is not a reason to panic. These defects do not pose a danger and absolutely do not affect the performance of the walls. An example of this is the cracked log houses built in remote villages decades ago.

Therefore, repairing cracks in the walls of log houses is only of an aesthetic nature. You can use various materials for this, but none of them are durable.

The sealant does not provide long-term adhesion to wood; cracks in it will have to be repaired every 2 years, applying new layers on top of the old ones. Wood, absorbing and releasing moisture depending on the season, periodically changes its volume. For this reason, any sealing material will peel off.

The optimal solution when sealing cracks in timber or logs is to caulk the cracks with flax hemp braids or moss.

Preventing cracks in the wall


As mentioned above, the main reasons for the appearance of dangerous cracks are foundation deformations. Therefore, when designing them, it is necessary to comply with a number of requirements:
  1. Columnar foundations located in heaving soils must be fastened with lower frames or grillages.
  2. In houses with basement floors or technical basements, it is better to make recessed walls in a monolithic design. However, it is not recommended to connect them with reinforcement into a solid structure with a slab foundation.
  3. The bases of heaving soils should not freeze under slab foundations when the frame of the house is built.
  4. The widening of drill supports should be located below the freezing level of heaving soils.
To prevent the appearance of cracks, the following measures can be taken:
  • Dismantling of emergency walls and installation of new block or brickwork;
  • Production of monolithic concrete reinforcing belt;
  • Replacement or strengthening of supports;
  • Restoration of the blind area;
  • Increasing the length of load-bearing walls and strengthening piers.
How to remove cracks in walls - watch the video:


Most of the cracks that appear on the walls of houses are caused by violations technical specifications, rules, building codes, lack of supervision over their compliance or low qualifications of performers. Therefore, when constructing buildings, it is important to prevent all this from happening. Good luck!

We usually perceive the catchphrase “life has cracked” as a joke.

However, humor is not appropriate when cracks appear on the walls of a private house, signaling a violation of the bearing capacity of the foundation.

It is difficult for the average citizen to understand what to do with cracks in brick house. Only an experienced builder can reliably establish the cause of their occurrence and give practical advice for elimination.

What causes cracks in the walls of a building? We will talk about this difficult topic in detail.

Classification and causes of crack formation

The emergence of durable and technologically advanced Portland cement revolutionized the construction industry. However, in terms of the risk of cracking, the new binder has one significant drawback– high hardening speed.

As you know, after construction, a building does not immediately occupy a stable place in the soil mass. The process of natural shrinkage continues for several years. Cement mortar, on the contrary, gains strength very quickly. Such a large difference between the decay time of sedimentary deformations and the active strength gain of Portland cement leads to the appearance of cracks that break the masonry mass.

With lime mortar things are simpler. It hardens slowly, so when the foundation settles, through voids in the walls usually arise. That is why in buildings that have stood for centuries we see much fewer cracks than in modern high-speed new buildings.

Specialists Cracks in brickwork are classified according to the following criteria:

  • Reason for formation: structural, deformation, shrinkage, temperature, wear;
  • Type of destruction: rupture, crushing, shearing;
  • Direction: horizontal, vertical, oblique;
  • Outline: curved, straight, closed (does not reach the edge of the wall).
  • Depth: through, superficial;
  • Danger level: not dangerous, dangerous;
  • Time: stabilized, not stabilized.
  • Size of opening: hairline (up to 0.1 mm), small (up to 0.3 mm), developed (0.4–0.8 mm), large (1 mm or more).

There are many reasons why a house cracks:

1. Soil settlement . It can be caused by uneven compressibility of the soil (dense and weak areas), uneven loading of the foundation, leakage of water supply and sewer water. It leads to the appearance of inclined splits reaching the edge of the wall or the development of vertical (oblique) cracks in the middle part of the facade.

1 – sedimentary cracks; 2 – sedimentary funnel; 3 – deviation of the wall from the vertical.

2. Freezing and thawing of the soil . Freezing of heaving soils causes uneven rise of the foundation (if its base is located above the freezing point of the soil). This process is especially dangerous for a building under construction, the weight of the walls of which is small (low flexural rigidity). In this case, many cracks form on the walls. When the soil thaws in spring, the reverse process occurs—the foundation settles. The walls are receiving new damage.

3. Repair a crack in the wall may be needed after adding a new room. This causes additional compressive stresses to develop in the foundation soil, leading to settlement of the foundation. As a result, inclined cracks appear in the adjacent walls of the existing building (open upward).

4. Uneven loads on the foundation within the same building . IN modern houses long glazed walls often alternate with blind areas. The difference in load leads to uneven settlement of the foundation.

5. Digging a pit next to the building . If the house stands on the slope of a pit or close to it, then the sliding of the soil affects the foundation and inclined cracks appear in the brick walls on the side of the pit.

6. Influence of neighboring foundations . Stress zones are superimposed, increasing soil compression and settlement.

7. Surface loads . When storing a large amount of building materials next to a building under construction, additional stresses appear in the ground. They can cause significant foundation settlement and cracks.

8. Dynamic influences . As a result of driving piles, the constant movement of heavy vehicles, and the operation of compressors, sandy soils are compacted and clay soils are softened. As a result, the foundation gets settled and the walls get cracks.

9. Temperature deformations . Causes the formation of cracks in the middle part of the walls (vertical direction). Repairing cracks in brick walls is most often required for long buildings that do not have expansion joints.

10. Overloading masonry . They appear in walls and on pillars. A characteristic feature of crush cracks is closedness and a vertical direction. They are very dangerous because they can cause a sudden collapse of one pier, followed by a chain reaction of the collapse of all the others.

11. Shrinkage deformations (non-hazardous) . Observed on plastered walls (cracks are small, randomly scattered, closed, do not reach the edge of the wall). The reason for their appearance is the shrinkage of too greasy plaster mortar.

How to repair cracks in brick walls?

It is possible to answer the question of how to repair a crack in the wall of a brick house only after identifying the cause of its formation and stabilizing the settling process.

To control cracks, gypsum domes are used, which are placed directly in the zone of their development. If the brittle gypsum does not burst within a certain time, we can talk about the cessation of the cracking process and begin to eliminate it.

Another option is a plate beacon with a scale

You can cover the crack with strong cement mortar and limit it to this in the case when it is small (up to 5 mm), not through and does not increase in size.

Brick locks are used to repair wide cracks. To do this, cracked bricks are removed from the masonry mass on the outer and inner sides of the wall, and a new one is placed in their place on the mortar.

An improved version of this solution is the insertion of a metal anchor(power plate with two pins). It is placed on the side in which the crack develops (upward expansion - the anchor is on top, downward expansion - the anchor plate is placed below).

Two steel plates with tension bolts passed through the wall are placed on through cracks. An alternative option is to hammer steel brackets into the masonry on both sides of the wall.

If a crack occurs in the area where the floor slab rests on the wall (insufficient area of ​​the support area), then a channel is placed under the slab. On the other side, a steel plate is placed on the wall and fastened with coupling bolts.

When cracks appear in the brick walls of the external walls, steel clips are used. Their size and design depend on the width of the wall.

All described repair options can be seen in the figure.

a - installation of a brick castle; b – brick castle with an anchor; reinforcement with plates with tension bolts (c - flat wall; d - wall corner); d – repair of a through crack using steel staples; e - repair at the point where the floor slab rests; g – strengthening of the cracked wall.
1- brick wall; 2- crack; 3 – brick castle; 4 – cement mortar; 5 – coupling bolt; 6 – channel (anchor); 7 – steel plate; 8 – staples (installation step 50 cm); 9 – floor slab; 10 – brick wall; 11 – corner; 12 – finishing layer.

When cracks appear that threaten the integrity of the house, more radical measures have to be taken. They consist of installing steel rods on the outside and inside of the wall, covering the entire building in a powerful steel bandage.

a, b - steel rods along the outer (a) and inner (b) sides of the wall; c – installation of non-tensioned channel bars;
1 – steel rod; 2 - corner; 3 — steel support plate; 4 - channel.

To summarize what has been said, we note that the condition of a brick and block house (especially a new one) must be closely monitored. The sooner cracks are detected, the less money and time it will take to eliminate them.

A cracked wall should not be treated carelessly. A crack in the wall of a house is a consequence of a violation of the technology for constructing the foundation or walls. After reading our short educational program, you will learn how to correctly determine the cause of cracks based on indirect signs. And, as a result, you will be able to quickly eliminate the mistake, avoiding further complications.

Causes of cracks

Due to the movement of soil layers, the entire building tilts in one direction or the other, but in general the building is held tightly and monolithically, thanks to a massive and strong base. And this is precisely what is frightening: if cracks appear on the wall, it means that the foundation is not fulfilling its function.

Meanwhile, there are a number of reasons due to which cracks can form without destroying the base. And if the foundation is not rigid enough or the supporting soils do not evenly accept the load, the tape will bend more than the walls can withstand. We can safely say that cracks appear due to imperfections in the building design, design errors or shortcomings during construction.

Cracks may be the result of errors in design, construction or improper operation of the building

The root cause is the fact that the soil layer under the foundation is heterogeneous. In high-density areas, the pressure is greater, causing the building to rest on just a few points and deform under its own weight. Main feature is that the density of sites can vary significantly over time or depending on weather conditions. Due to freezing, soil heaves occurs, when wet, it becomes too soft, and less often geological, seismic and geomorphological factors come into play.

Simply repairing or hiding a crack is not enough; you should find out the cause of its formation and only then begin restoration.

How to determine the cause of a crack

When cracks are first detected, it is necessary to begin close monitoring of their development, simultaneously recording temperature changes and the presence of precipitation during this period. To have the most complete understanding of cracking patterns, it is helpful to keep a detailed log throughout the year.

To visualize changes in the width of cracks, small lumps of alabaster soaked to the consistency of plasticine are attached to them. Beacons are installed along the entire length of the crack every meter. By checking the marks periodically, for example after a month, two, and so on, we can draw a conclusion about the nature of the damage:

  1. If the mark has cracked or fallen off, it means the crack is continuing to expand. The gap in the mark can be used to judge the speed of divergence.
  2. If the mark is cracked, there is no gap, the wall is subjected to dynamic loads, but there is no longer any tension in the material, and no further discrepancies are observed.
  3. If the mark remains intact, it means there is no stress in the wall. The crack was the result of one-time shrinkage.

To obtain more accurate information, observations are continued over a long period, and damaged tags are replaced with new ones, recording the previous result.

It is allowed to use any solid, but brittle material, capable of detecting the slightest deformation of the base

The shape of the cracks can say a lot about the nature of the movement. If the fracture site is smooth, the edge is sharp and has no chips, then the crack has expanded and simply torn the lighthouse. If the edges of the crack on the lighthouse have chipped edges, or it has fallen off completely, most likely, the crack, on the contrary, has decreased, and the lighthouse has collapsed from compression.

The special shape of the tags and beacons helps to identify the most minor fluctuations

By projecting these changes onto the geometric model of the house and foundation, you can determine with high accuracy how settlement occurs over time, whether it depends on the wetness of the ground during rain, where there are places of high and low density.

And yet, the most complete information can only be provided by a comprehensive analysis performed by specialists based on an examination, which includes:

  • control of the strength of supporting structures;
  • analysis of supporting soils;
  • identifying hidden cracks or uneven load distribution.

Ultimately, with your own observations or with outside help, it will be possible to draw up an action plan to strengthen the foundation and walls of the building and eliminate cracks.

We eliminate the cause, get rid of the crack

The most dangerous case is when the crack continues to expand. This indicates that the walls of the building or the foundation will be irreparably damaged. The problem can be radically solved only by completely rebuilding the damaged section of the building. However, if you notice the problem in time, a much less radical method will help - covering the house.

Everything is done quite simply:

  1. Steel corners with a 100 mm flange are installed at the outer corners.
  2. On crutches, at least two lines of smooth reinforcement are laid along the walls - upper and lower.
  3. A thread is cut on each rod: left on one side, right on the other. Nuts are screwed onto the reinforcement and welded to the corners.
  4. A meter from the corner, on the side of the reinforcing bars, a small parallel rod is welded so that rotation can be transmitted with a regular adjustable wrench.
  5. During final tightening, two people twist the bar simultaneously, gradually increasing the tension.

In this case, the cracks literally melt before our eyes, all that remains is to replace the protective plaster of the walls and base, reinforcing it with steel mesh.

An example of tightening a building along the plinth

It is possible that the markers on the crack will remain intact for a long time or the gap will constantly expand and contract, but overall not increase. This is a clear sign that the foundation is working normally, and that there were initially excess stresses in the wall material, which resulted in a crack.

To strengthen the wall in a problem area use:

  • external reinforcement with carbon fiber, steel mesh;
  • anchors and metal frames;
  • embedded reinforcing elements along grooves;
  • injection method.

It is important to close the crack and restore the strength of the structure. If the cause was improper ligation of brick rows, then it is quite possible that the only effective remedy will be a complete or partial re-lining of the wall in the emergency area.

Laying reinforcement in the grooves helps to contain further deformations

Massive reinforcement with an external frame with anchor fastening to the wall

Strengthening walls with external carbon fiber reinforcement

Repairing cracks using the injection method

To seal any cracks, it is necessary to clean it along its entire length and depth from dirt, dust, remove the layer of mortar and base material, expanding it to 15 mm or more. The resulting gap is filled with mortar, having previously been reinforced using one of the methods listed above.

Heaving as a result of soil soaking

To prevent the soil under the foundation from becoming oversaturated with moisture, a blind area is installed around the house and the drainage pipes are pulled as far away as possible. However, over time, the screed may collapse, and rainwater will seep directly under the foundation, washing it away.

Typically, a sign of such a phenomenon is the gradual expansion of cracks, which occurs mainly during heavy rainfall or some time after it. It is typical for such phenomena that cracks seem to “split off” the corners of the house, passing through the nearest window openings.

Frost heaving can destroy the foundation of a house

The foundation continues to remain intact, but the overall tilt of the building may increase from year to year. In addition, no one knows how much the next shrinkage will occur and how this will affect the integrity concrete base. Heaving due to high humidity can also occur due to rising water.

Will help solve the problem qualitatively drainage system, collected around the perimeter of the building to drain groundwater and overhead water away from the foundation. It is necessary to expose the foundation to the ground, lay drainage pipe onto the prepared sand and gravel cushion around the perimeter of the foundation and divert it to the side. To discharge water, you will need to prepare a drainage well or run a pipe to the nearest body of water.

Drainage for removing groundwater from atmospheric precipitation and melt water from the base of the foundation

A wide blind area will not allow precipitation to flow under the foundation

An obligatory step to eliminate the problem is the restoration of the cement blind area and its expansion. Typically, for a shallow strip foundation, a blind area of ​​about 40-60 cm wide is sufficient, and for buried foundations - up to one and a half meters. It would also not be superfluous to install ebb tides and reset rainwater 4-5 meters from the house.

What to do if the problem is in the foundation

If no measures are successful, you will have to look for the problem in the foundation. A prerequisite for this may be not only the visible formation of a crack in the exposed area, but also the general structural unsuitability of the base, causing insufficient rigidity.

Local foundation faults should be repaired immediately. First, a dig is made to a depth of 60-100 cm under the bottom edge of the tape and up to 2 meters wide. A pedestal reinforced with reinforcement is poured under the fracture site, after which the pit dries, the pit is expanded another meter in each direction and topped up again.

Strengthening the foundation with piles

Do not forget that the reason may be an initial miscalculation in the design of the house or failure to comply with the requirements during construction:

  • the properties of supporting soils are not taken into account;
  • the foundation depth is incorrectly selected to the actual freezing depth;
  • the width of the foundation is not enough for real loads, etc.

Strengthening the foundation by additionally pouring reinforced concrete around the perimeter of the building

If cracks appear in the foundation and walls of the house, then measures should be immediately taken to strengthen the foundation, for example screw piles, side or bottom gravy. It is possible to determine which method of reinforcement is required only by relying on data from construction expertise and preparation of the appropriate project, which is best left to professional designers.